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    • on returning home
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  • Home
  • about ~ wander.essence ~
    • ~ the places i’ve been ~
    • ~ places i’ve been in the u.s.a. ~
  • Travel Destinations
    • America
      • Boston
      • Delaware
      • District of Columbia
        • Washington
      • Georgia
        • Atlanta
      • Maryland
      • New Jersey
        • Cape May
      • New York
        • Adirondacks
        • Buffalo
        • Niagara Falls
      • Pennsylvania
        • Pittsburgh
      • South Carolina
      • Tennessee
        • Nashville
      • Virginia
    • American Road Trips
      • Canyon & Cactus Road Trip
      • Florida Road Trip
        • Everglades
        • Fort Lauderdale
        • Florida Keys
        • Miami
        • St. Augustine
      • Four Corners Road Trip
        • Arizona
          • Monument Valley
          • Petrified Forest National Park
          • Sunset Crater National Monument
          • Walnut Canyon National Monument
          • Winslow
          • Wupatki National Monument
        • Colorado
          • Colorado National Monument
          • Colorado Towns
          • Great Sand Dunes National Park
          • Grand Junction
        • New Mexico
        • Utah
          • Arches National Park
          • Canyonlands
          • Navajo National Monument
          • Dead Horse Point State Park
          • Hovenweep National Monument
          • Moab
          • Valley of the Gods
          • Natural Bridges National Monument
      • Great Lakes Road Trip
        • Michigan
        • Minnesota
        • Wisconsin
      • Midwestern Triangle
        • Illinois
          • Carbondale
          • Murphysboro
        • Kentucky
          • Covington
          • Lexington
          • Louisville
        • Ohio
          • Cincinnati
      • Road Trip to Nowhere
        • Nebraska
        • North Dakota
        • South Dakota
      • Tex-New Mex Road Trip
        • Texas & New Mexico Road Trip
        • New Mexico
        • Texas
    • International Travel
      • Africa
        • african meanderings {& musings}
        • Egypt
          • Cairo
        • Ethiopia
        • Morocco
      • Asia
        • Cambodia
        • China
          • China Diaries
          • Guangxi Province
        • India
          • Rishikesh
          • Varanasi
        • Japan
          • Kyoto
        • Myanmar
        • Oman
          • a nomad in the land of nizwa
          • Nizwa
        • Singapore
        • South Korea
          • catbird in korea
        • Thailand
        • Turkey
          • Cappadocia
        • Vietnam
      • Central America
        • Costa Rica
        • El Salvador
        • Nicaragua
        • Panama
          • Bocas del Toro
          • Panama City
      • Europe
        • In Search of a Thousand Cafés
        • Croatia
          • Dalmatia
            • Istria
            • Dubrovnik
            • Plitvice Lakes National Park
            • Split
            • Zadar
            • Zagreb
        • Czech Republic
          • Český Krumlov
        • England
        • France
        • Greece
        • Hungary
          • Budapest
          • Esztergom
        • Iceland
        • Italy
          • Bergamo
          • Cinque Terre
          • The Dolomites
          • Florence
          • Rome
          • Tuscany
          • Venice
          • Verona
          • Via Francigena
        • Portugal
        • Spain
          • Camino de Santiago
            • packing list for el camino de santiago 2018
      • North America
        • Canada
          • The Maritimes
            • New Brunswick
            • Nova Scotia
            • Prince Edward Island
          • Ontario
      • South America
        • Colombia
        • Ecuador
          • Cuenca
          • Quito
    • how to make the most of a staycation
      • Coronavirus Coping
  • Imaginings
    • imaginings: the call to place
  • Travel Preparation
    • journeys: anticipation & preparation
  • Travel Creativity
    • on keeping a travel journal
    • on creating art from travels
      • Art Journaling
    • photography inspiration
      • Photography
    • writing prompts: prose
      • Prose
        • Fiction
        • Travel Essay
        • Travelogue
    • writing prompts: poetry
      • Poetry
  • On Journey
    • on journey: taking ourselves from here to there
  • Books & Movies
    • books | international a-z |
    • books & novels | u.s.a. |
    • books | history, spirituality, personal growth & lifestyle |
    • movies | international a-z |
    • movies | u.s.a. |
  • On Returning Home
    • on returning home
  • Annual recap
    • twenty-fifteen
    • twenty-eighteen
    • twenty-nineteen
    • twenty-twenty
    • twenty-twenty-one
    • twenty twenty-two
    • twenty twenty-three
    • twenty twenty-four
    • twenty twenty-five
  • Contact

wander.essence

wander.essence

Home from Morocco & Italy

Home sweet home!May 10, 2019
I'm home from Morocco & Italy. :-)

Italy trip

Traveling to Italy from MoroccoApril 23, 2019
On my way to Italy!

Leaving for Morocco

Casablanca, here I come!April 4, 2019
I'm on my way to Casablanca. :-)

Home from our Midwestern Triangle Road Trip

Driving home from Lexington, KYMarch 6, 2019
Home sweet home from the Midwest. :-)

Leaving for my Midwestern Triangle Road Trip

Driving to IndianaFebruary 24, 2019
Driving to Indiana.

Returning home from Portugal

Home sweet home from Spain & Portugal!November 6, 2018
Home sweet home from Spain & Portugal!

Leaving Spain for Portugal

A rendezvous in BragaOctober 26, 2018
Rendezvous in Braga, Portgual after walking the Camino de Santiago. :-)

Leaving to walk the Camino de Santiago

Heading to Spain for the CaminoAugust 31, 2018
I'm on my way to walk 790 km across northern Spain on the Camino de Santiago.

Home from my Four Corners Road Trip

Home Sweet Home from the Four CornersMay 25, 2018
Home Sweet Home from the Four Corners. :-)

My Four Corners Road Trip!

Hitting the roadMay 1, 2018
I'm hitting the road today for my Four Corners Road Trip: CO, UT, AZ, & NM!

Recent Posts

  • twenty twenty-five: nicaragua {twice}, mexico & seven months in costa rica {with an excursion to panama} December 31, 2025
  • the december cocktail hour: mike’s surgery, a central highlands road trip & christmas in costa rica December 31, 2025
  • top ten books of 2025 December 28, 2025
  • the november cocktail hour: a trip to panama, a costa rican thanksgiving & a move to lake arenal condos December 1, 2025
  • panama: the caribbean archipelago of bocas del toro November 24, 2025
  • a trip to panama city: el cangrejo, casco viejo & the panama canal November 22, 2025
  • the october cocktail hour: a trip to virginia, a NO KINGS protest, two birthday celebrations, & a cattle auction October 31, 2025
  • the september cocktail hour: a nicoya peninsula getaway, a horseback ride to la piedra del indio waterfalls & a fall bingo card September 30, 2025
  • the august cocktail hour: local gatherings, la fortuna adventures, & a “desfile de caballistas”  September 1, 2025
  • the july cocktail hour: a trip to ometepe, nicaragua; a beach getaway to tamarindo; & homebody activities August 3, 2025
  • the june cocktail hour: our first month in costa rica June 30, 2025
  • a pura vida year in costa rica June 12, 2025
  • the may cocktail hour: final wrap up, a wedding & leaving for costa rica June 2, 2025

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poetic journeys: a contagion of fireflies

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 September 6, 2019

A Contagion of Fireflies

With nonchalance, the morning flung
a flannel cloak high over the Meseta.

In wind gusts, wheat stalks fluttered and moon-faced
sunflowers sashayed in a rush of whispers.

Thistles thrashed and windmills twirled
pale arms on a distant ridge, poised to take flight.

Under the edge of the world, a thousand candles flamed
and then burst above the prairie like a contagion of fireflies.

The golden light drifted like dandelion dust to the cloud ceiling,
and a blush of peaches and fringed violets quivered over the fields.

The morning stretched out all across the plateau,
rippling across the land like the tide rushing in.

Hornillos del Camino to Arroyo San Bol
Hornillos del Camino to Arroyo San Bol
Arroyo San Bol to Hontanas 2018
Arroyo San Bol to Hontanas 2018
Hornillos del Camino to Arroyo San Bol
Hornillos del Camino to Arroyo San Bol

*************************

“POETRY” Invitation:  I invite you to write a poem of any poetic form on your own blog about a particular travel destination.  Or you can write about travel in general. Concentrate on any intention you set for your poetry.

One of my many intentions for my Camino was to write at least one poem inspired by Spanish poet Federico García Lorca.  One of the poems I used for inspiration was his “Landscape” in his collection Federico García Lorca: Selected Verse.  I wanted to capture in a poem one of the favorite landscapes I encountered one morning on the Camino: {camino day 21} hornillos del camino to castrojeriz & ruminations {week three}.

You can either set your own poetic intentions, or use one of the prompts I’ve listed on this page: writing prompts: poetry.  (This page is a work in process).  You can also include photos, of course.

Include the link in the comments below by Thursday, October 3 at 1:00 p.m. EST.  When I write my post in response to this challenge on Friday, October 4, I’ll include your links in that post.

This will be an ongoing invitation, on the first Friday of each month. Feel free to jump in at any time. 🙂

I hope you’ll join in our community. I look forward to reading your posts!

the ~ wander.essence ~ community

I invite you all to settle in and read a few posts from our wandering community.  I promise, you’ll be inspired. 🙂

  • Christopher, of clcouch123, wrote a beautiful poem about “small blessings” on the Camino, which he says was inspired by a post I wrote about my experience.
    • Benediciónes Pequeñas

Thanks to all of you who wrote poetic posts following intentions you set for yourself. 🙂

I am traveling from September 1 to October 4. If I cannot respond to or add your links due to wi-fi problems or time constraints, please feel free to add your links in both this post and my next scheduled post. If I can’t read them when you post them, I will get to them as soon as I can. Thanks for your understanding! 🙂

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  • Aveiro
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portugal’s gritty street art

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 September 5, 2019

Portugal has a vivid and spontaneous street art scene; it’s one that doesn’t seem sponsored, except in a few cases.  It has a certain gritty quality to it; often it is mostly graffiti that is sloppily applied to decrepit and derelict surfaces. Here’s some of the street art I found in Portugal in October and November of 2018.

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Porto

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Porto

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Porto

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Porto

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Aveiro

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Aveiro

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Lisbon

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Lisbon

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Lisbon

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Lisbon

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Lisbon

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Lisbon

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Lisbon

IMG_2030

Lisbon

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Lisbon

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Lisbon

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Lisbon

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Lisbon

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Lisbon

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Lisbon

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Lisbon

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Lisbon

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Lisbon

*********************

“PHOTOGRAPHY” INVITATION:  I invite you to create a photography intention and then create a blog post for a place you have visited. Alternately, you can post a thematic post about a place, photos of whatever you discovered that set your heart afire. You can also do a thematic post of something you have found throughout all your travels: churches, doors, people reading, people hiking, mountains, patterns, all black & white, whatever!

You probably have your own ideas about this, but in case you’d like some ideas, you can visit my page: photography inspiration.

I challenge you to post no more than 20-25 photos and to write less than 1,500 words about any travel-related photography intention you set for yourself. Include the link in the comments below by Wednesday, September 11 at 1:00 p.m. EST.  When I write my post in response to this challenge on Thursday, September 12, I’ll include your links in that post.

This will be an ongoing invitation, every first, second, and third (& 5th, if there is one) Thursday of each month. Feel free to jump in at any time. 🙂

I hope you’ll join in our community. I look forward to reading your posts!

the ~ wander.essence ~ community

I invite you all to settle in and read a few posts from our wandering community.  I promise, you’ll be inspired!

I am traveling from September 1 to October 4. If I cannot respond to or add your links due to wi-fi problems or time constraints, please feel free to add your links in both this post and my next scheduled post. If I can’t read them when you post them, I will get to them as soon as I can. Thanks for your understanding! 🙂

Thanks to all of you who shared posts on the “photography” invitation. 🙂

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on returning home from a midwestern triangle road trip

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 September 2, 2019

In Indiana, I:  Drove amidst silos, barns, cows and farmland and visited the Lincoln Boyhood National Memorial and the George Rogers Clark National Historical Park.

Lincoln Boyhood Home
Lincoln Boyhood Home
George Rogers Clark National Historic Park
George Rogers Clark National Historic Park

In Illinois, I:  Visited my sister at her new home in Murphysboro and explored local eateries in Carbondale.  Drove to the Garden of the Gods in the Shawnee National Forest on a springlike day, and took a walk amidst whimsically-shaped rocks.  Felt inspired by my sister’s artwork and her various collections, including artistic cigarette cards and early editions of classic books. Got caught up watching Michael Cohen’s testimony before the House Oversight and Reform Committee.  Got hooked on the TV series Happy Valley. Drove in icy rain from Murphysboro to Louisville, where I had to keep getting out of the car and scraping ice off the windshield.

Carbondale, Illinois
Carbondale, Illinois
Garden of the Gods in Illinois
Garden of the Gods in Illinois
my sister's cigarette cards
my sister’s cigarette cards

In Kentucky, I: Took a tour of Churchill Downs Racetrack and felt inspired to attend the Kentucky Derby sometime in the future.  Learned about bourbon and the Lewis and Clark expedition at the Frazier History Museum.  Felt grateful for the controversial boxer’s fight against racism at the Muhammad Ali Center in Louisville. Marveled over stained glass and amazing mosaics at St. Mary’s Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption in Covington. Learned more than I ever wanted to know about the breeding of stallions at Claiborne Farm in Lexington. Tasted bourbon several times, both at the Evan Williams Bourbon Experience in Louisville and again at Town Branch in Lexington.

Churchill Downs, Louisville, KY
Churchill Downs, Louisville, KY
Frazier History Museum, Louisville
Frazier History Museum, Louisville
Muhammad Ali Center, Louisville
Muhammad Ali Center, Louisville
Saint Mary's Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption in Covington, KY
Saint Mary’s Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption in Covington, KY
War Front on Claiborne Farm in Lexington
War Front on Claiborne Farm in Lexington
Colville Covered Bridge in Kentucky
Colville Covered Bridge in Kentucky
dinner at Ramsey's in Lexington
dinner at Ramsey’s in Lexington

In Cincinnati, Ohio, I: Enjoyed mural arts and a blast from the past at Cincinnati’s American Sign Museum.  Learned all about the history of slavery and enslaved people all over the world at the National Underground Railroad Freedom Center. Took a long walk through downtown Cincinnati, along and across the Ohio River on the Roebling Suspension Bridge, to Covington, KY. Tried to stay warm at Krohn Conservatory,  Cincinnati Art Museum, and Findley Market in cold, rainy weather.  Ate decadent foods like Cincinnati chili, biscuits & gravy, and chicken & dumplings too many times to count.

American Sign Museum in Cincinnati
American Sign Museum in Cincinnati
Cincinnati along the Ohio River
Cincinnati along the Ohio River
John A. Roebling Suspension Bridge in Cincinnati
John A. Roebling Suspension Bridge in Cincinnati
Krohn Conservatory in Cincinnati
Krohn Conservatory in Cincinnati
Paris 1900 in the Cincinnati Art Museum
Paris 1900 in the Cincinnati Art Museum
Fading ads in Cincinnati
Fading ads in Cincinnati
mural in Cincinnati
mural in Cincinnati
Cincinnati Chili
Cincinnati Chili

I have often imagined American cities and especially the American Midwest as being boring and even a bit backwards.  I have generally thought of these states as drive-through states, states you drive through to get to more interesting places.  Most of the states I visited, with the exception of Illinois, are red states, meaning they’re conservative and voted for Trump in 2016. Before I embarked on the road trip, I read Hillbilly Elegy: A Memoir of a Family and Culture in Crisis by J.D. Vance.  The book is a memoir of growing up in an economically depressed town, Middletown, in Ohio, and gives some insights as to why people are so desperate that they resort to falling for the promises of a charlatan.

My general impressions were that Indiana and southern Illinois would never be places I’d like to live as there was not much of interest going on there.   Louisville, Kentucky seemed down on its luck and a bit derelict, with its main draw being the Kentucky Derby, a one day event in May. It did have the Frazier History Museum and the Muhammad Ali Center, which were fascinating museums. Covington, Kentucky benefited from its proximity to Cincinnati (it’s just across the Ohio River) and was a delight. I loved the rolling hills and horse farms outside of Lexington, but I never developed a taste for bourbon and probably never will.

On the other hand, I found Cincinnati to be a charming town with its ArtWorks Cincinnati program — transforming city walls one at a time. It also was home to a good market, Findlay Market, a creative food scene, some fine museums (most notably the American Sign Museum and the Cincinnati Art Museum) and Krohn Conservatory, and a general feel-good vibe.  I enjoyed it and hope I can return one day in better weather to explore further.

Visiting some of the more depressed areas, especially Louisville, parts of Ohio outside of Cincinnati, and areas in Indiana, I could see why people might vote for someone who promised jobs and economic renewal, despite enacting many policies that actually hurt them, such as limited access to healthcare.  Kentucky was also part of the Confederacy in the Civil War and wanted to keep the institution of slavery.  Mitch McConnell is Kentucky’s senior U.S. Senator and the Senate Majority Leader, a staunch Trump supporter and someone I loathe.  I knew all of this going in, and it may have colored my view of Kentucky.  It wasn’t of my favorite states, and I don’t think I’ll be visiting again except possibly to attend the Kentucky Derby one of these days.

As you can see from the polarsteps map below, my trip turned out to be more of a Midwestern triangle Δ and rectangle than just a Δ.

Midwestern Triangle road trip from Virginia
Midwestern Triangle road trip from Virginia
Midwestern Triangle Road trip: Kentucky, Ohio, Indiana and Illinois
Midwestern Triangle Road trip: Kentucky, Ohio, Indiana and Illinois

As a follow-up to my trip, I wrote a number of posts based on intentions I set before embarking:

  1. on journey: indiana to illinois
  2. cincinnati street art
  3. southern illinois on the song of birds
  4. poetic journeys: lives moving as fast as possible
  5. on journey: seeking optimism from illinois to louisville, kentucky
  6. louisville, kentucky: of bourbon, bridles and boxers
  7. american signs in cincinnati, ohio
  8. cincinnati neighborhoods
  9. bridges, parks & three cities around the ohio river
  10. cincinnati’s krohn conservatory
  11. man vs. man in cincinnati & louisville
  12. a cold walk around covington, kentucky
  13. exploring horse and bourbon country around lexington, kentucky
  14. poetic journeys: let it all, all, all
  15. art discoveries in louisville & cincinnati
  16. imbibing in a bit of the bourbon trail in louisville
  17. art discoveries in louisville & cincinnati
  18. sniffing our way through cincinnati’s findlay market

I still have several poems to write: 1) a found poem from any book I read about Cincinnati or Ohio; 2) and two headline poems for Louisville and Lexington.

I was also supposed to do a sketch each day.  I didn’t do one every day, but I did a couple, most very elementary and one simply awful (I’m too embarrassed to show it here)! I really need to remember to do sketches in pencil before committing them to ink.

I’m still not good at capturing a place using all five senses in my writing.  It is still my goal to improve on that count.

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Louisville sketches in my journal

*Sunday, February 24 to Wednesday, March 6, 2019*

*************************

“ON RETURNING HOME” INVITATION: I invite you to write a post on your own blog about returning home from one particular destination or, alternately, from a long journey encompassing many stops.  How do you linger over your wanderings and create something from them?  How have you changed? Did the place live up to its hype, or was it disappointing? Feel free to address any aspect of your journey and how it influences you upon your return. If you don’t have a blog, I invite you to write in the comments.

For some ideas on this, you can check out the original post about this subject: on returning home.

Include the link in the comments below by Sunday, October 6 at 1:00 p.m. EST.  When I write my post in response to this challenge on Monday, October 7, I’ll include your links in that post.

This will be an ongoing invitation on the first Monday of each month. Feel free to jump in at any time. 🙂

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  • Camino de Santiago
  • Hikes & Walks
  • International Travel

{camino day 32} valverde de la virgen to hospital de órbigo

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 September 1, 2019

I left at 6:55 a.m. in the cold dark (46°F), but it was just as well; I didn’t miss a thing.  I felt like all I wanted was to get away from the road!  The whole solitary walk today was alongside a busy highway, the N-120, with trucks and cars roaring past and nothing much of interest to see. Even the towns along the way held no charm.  Supposedly from Valverde de la Virgen, there would be only 25km of the monotonous plain of Castilla y León still remaining.

I hoped to find breakfast in two kilometers in San Miguel del Camino, but that town was snoozing away.

Valverde de la Virgen to San Miguel del Camino (2.0 km)

It was another 7.4km to Villadangos del Páramo, where I found one bar on a side street to set me up with café con leche and a chocolate croissant.

Villadangos del Páramo is an old town of Roman origins that sits on the main road. In the past, it supported a pilgrim hospital. Legend has it that in 1111, a battle was waged here between the forces of Doña Urraca of Léon and those of her former spouse, Alfonso of Aragón.

San Miguel del Camino to Villadangos del Páramo (7.4 km)

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San Miguel del Camino to Villadangos del Páramo

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298 km to Santiago

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San Miguel del Camino to Villadangos del Páramo

In another 4.7 km, I was in San Martín del Camino, yet another featureless town.

Villadangos del Páramo to San Martín del Camino (Centro) (4.7 km)

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Villadangos del Páramo to San Martín del Camino (Centro)

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Villadangos del Páramo to San Martín del Camino (Centro)

It was another 6.6km to Hospital de Órbigo.  I tried hard to keep my eyes down and stop hoping for a glimpse of the town.  I know in life, that’s like wishing your life away.  I drank water to keep cool on the hot, shadeless track, sat down to rest where I could, looked at cornstalks and dandelions and spiky weeds and butterflies, white and yellow, fluttering about. I even enjoyed a short stretch of shade.  And then voila! There it was!  Wait!  That added up to 20.7 km.

I was happy to see the water tower and rooftops and then the Puente de Órbigo, one of the longest and best preserved medieval bridges from the 13th century, built over an earlier Roman bridge.

San Martín del Camino (Centro) to Puente de Órbigo (6.6 km)

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San Martín del Camino (Centro) to Puente de Órbigo

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San Martín del Camino (Centro) to Puente de Órbigo

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San Martín del Camino (Centro) to Puente de Órbigo

The significance of Puente de Órbigo diminished in the 12th century when the Knights Hospitaller of St. John built a hospital on the far side of the river.

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Parish church of Santa María

The nineteen arches of the Puente de Órbigo carried me across the Río Órbigo via Paso Honroso (the honorable pass), called such because of a famous jousting tournament that took place here in the Holy Year of 1434.  In that year, Suero de Quiñones stood guard on the bridge for a month challenging whoever came across to a joust. He supposedly defeated 166 opponents in that time, keeping his promise to a lady.

Walking across, I heard the murmur of the running water, birdsong, and a breeze tickling the nearby poplars.

The bridge also witnessed the 452 battle when the Visigoths slaughtered the Swabians and it subsequently became the scene of a confrontation between Christian forces under Alfonso III and the Moors. The bridge has also facilitated a cattle trade since Roman times as part of the camino de la cañada (cattle trail).

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Puente de Órbigo

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Puente de Órbigo

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river

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Puente de Órbigo

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Puente de Órbigo

Finally, I arrived at tonight’s destination: Albergue La Encina in Hospital de Órbigo. It was clean, new, and only had four beds to a room, but I wouldn’t say I got a warm and fuzzy welcome.

Hospital de Órbigo is home to a Knights Commandery of the ancient order of St. John, who maintained a pilgrim hospital here. It is also home to Iglesia de San Juan Bautista, the parish church of John the Baptist.

Puente de Órbigo to Hospital de Órbigo (0.5 km)

I went out to wander and stopped for lunch at an indoor restaurant, where I had trout soup, a local specialty, that had way too much bread in it!  As always, I enjoyed a cool limon y cerveza too.

The town seemed all spiffy, “done up” in recent years.  I met and chatted with a lady named Coreen, from Oregon, as I wandered around the town.

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Iglesia de San Juan Bautista

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Iglesia de San Juan Bautista

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Hospital de Órbigo

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Hospital de Órbigo

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Hospital de Órbigo

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Hospital de Órbigo

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Hospital de Órbigo

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Hospital de Órbigo

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Trout soup with bread

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Hospital de Órbigo

At dinner, I met two Irish sisters, Marian and Anne; we shared a glass of wine and then dinner together.  We talked of everything from our sons and young men in general to politics – Trump and Brexit – and our Camino experiences.  What a pleasure these two were.

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Marian and Anne from Ireland

For dinner, I had garlic soup, with too much bread again, trout, fries and flan for 10€.  And of course all the wine we could drink.

I shared our 4-bed room with only one other lady; two beds were empty and we had our own bathroom. There was no place outdoors to hang laundry, just a big indoor room; it took all night for my clothes to dry.

**********

*Day 32: Friday, October 5, 2018*

*34,427 steps, or 14.59 miles: Valverde de la Virgen to Hospital de Órbigo (18.3 km)*

You can find everything I’ve written so far on the Camino de Santiago here:

  • Camino de Santiago 2018

**************

On Sundays, I post about hikes or walks that I have taken in my travels; I may also post on other unrelated subjects. I will use these posts to participate in Jo’s Monday Walks or any other challenges that catch my fancy.

This post is in response to Jo’s Monday Walk: Carvoeiro Boxes.

 

 

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  • American Road Trips
  • Covington
  • Kentucky

a cold walk around covington, kentucky

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 August 29, 2019

After a relaxing morning in our Airbnb, we left at 9:45 for walk around Covington, Kentucky, stopping first at Saint Mary’s Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption.   We walked across a busy 4-lane bridge in frigid temperatures, bullied by a gusty wind. The sun was supposed to come out later, although snow was flurrying when we set out.

We hoped to find beauty in simplicity.  Covington is a charming little town across the Ohio River from Cincinnati.  It has neighborhoods of elegant homes with little pretense. Saint Mary’s Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption has elegant stained glass windows and intricate mosaics that are beautifully crafted with tiny pieces of stained glass and enamel glass.  Elaborate religious stories are told out of simple cuts of colored glass. The church itself follows designs of two French churches, inside and out; they’re not simple plans but using a design already created makes a simpler task than inventing something from scratch. There are statues of famous men, men who created bridges, drew birds, fought wars, and led youth.  Men who allowed their loves, skills, and talents to lead them to historical achievements. The Cincinnati skyline gleamed from across the Ohio River but didn’t encroach upon the laid-back vibe; we observed it quietly from the shores of the delightful and peaceful town.

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Covington homes

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Covington homes

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Saint Mary’s Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption

In 1892, the third bishop of the Diocese of Covington engaged Detroit architect Leon Coquard to build a cathedral; he designed the interior after the Abbey Church of St. Denis and the exterior, with its flying buttresses, after the Cathedral of Notre Dame in Paris.  They broke ground in April, 1894 and finished on September 8, 1895.

The Cathedral, which has limestone columns and limestone-faced walls, was dedicated in 1901, but still lacked a façade in 1908.  It was finally completed in 1910, decorated with gargoyles and chimeras copied from Notre Dame.

The Cathedral Basilica is most famous for its 82 stained glass windows designed in a neo-Renaissance art style known as the “Munich Pictorial Style.”  Windows were handmade in the studios of Franz Mayer and Co. in Munich, Germany and installed from 1908-1923.

stained glass window at Saint Mary's Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption
stained glass window at Saint Mary’s Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption
stained glass window at Saint Mary's Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption
stained glass window at Saint Mary’s Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption
stained glass window at Saint Mary's Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption
stained glass window at Saint Mary’s Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption
stained glass window at Saint Mary's Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption
stained glass window at Saint Mary’s Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption
stained glass window at Saint Mary's Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption
stained glass window at Saint Mary’s Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption
stained glass windows at Saint Mary's Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption
stained glass windows at Saint Mary’s Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption

The circular Rose Window at the rear of the Cathedral is 26 feet in diameter.

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Rose Window

In the north transept is the Cathedral’s majestic North Transept Window which is 67 feet high and 24 feet wide; it is the largest stained glass window in the world. It tells the story of the Council of Ephesus (431 AD) which affirmed both the humanity and divinity of Christ, and declared Mary to be the “Mother of God.”

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North Transept Window at Saint Mary’s Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption

The fourteen mosaic Stations of the Cross depict scenes of Jesus’s Passion and Crucifixion.  Each station contains 70,000-80,000 pieces of enamel glass with gold and mother of pearl highlights.

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Stations of the Cross

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Stations of the Cross

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Stations of the Cross

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Stations of the Cross

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Stations of the Cross – detail

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Stations of the Cross

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Stations of the Cross – detail

Outside, especially on the back side, we noted the resemblance to Notre Dame.

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Saint Mary’s Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption

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Saint Mary’s Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption

After leaving the Basilica, we walked back to our Airbnb.  This time we were walking into the wind and my cheeks were frozen.  I had a hat, gloves and multiple layers on, so I was okay otherwise. We then drove to downtown Covington and took the “Historic Licking Riverside and Roebling Point walk” from the book Walking Cincinnati.  It was icy cold.

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Covington homes

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Covington homes

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Covington homes

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Mother of God Church

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Street mural in Covington

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Street mural in Covington

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Roebling Point Books & Coffee

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The Gruff & The Ascent

We admired the Roebling Suspension Bridge along the Ohio River, the Cincinnati skyline and statues of famous men.

John A. Roebling was hired to build what was then called the Covington-Cincinnati Bridge, with the goal of creating the world’s longest suspension bridge.

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John A. Roebling statue

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Roebling Suspension Bridge

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Cincinnati skyline across the Ohio River

John James Audubon was known as a painter of birds and most notably for his series called the Birds of America. Audubon came to the northern Kentucky area in 1819, and made many drawings near this place.  During his stay in the Cincinnati-Kentucky area, he grew from an amateur to a professional, leaving Cincinnati to embark on his project to record the birds of North America, which was first published in 1826.

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John James Audubon (1785-1851)

Chief Little Turtle, a Miami War Chief, fought to protect the Indian hunting grounds of Kentucky and the villages of southern Ohio from the onrush of American settlers.  He twice led a confederation of Miami, Shawnee, and Delaware Indians in victory against American armies.  After the Indians were defeated at Fallen Timbers in 1794, Little Turtle joined signing the treaty of Greenville in 1795. He declared: “I am the last to sign it and will be the last to break it.”  He kept his word.

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Chief Little Turtle

At the end of Riverside Drive, we came to The Point, the area where the Licking River and Ohio River come together.

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home in Covington

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Covington streets

Built by Thomas Carneal, a founder of Covington, around 1815, the Carneal House was the first brick house in the city.  Georgian in concept, the style reveals the influence of the great Italian architect Andrea Palladio. In 1825, Lafayette visited as a guest; other famous visitors were Henry Clay, Daniel Webster, and Andrew Jackson. Today the Carneal House is home to local preservation activists.

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Carneal House

Daniel Carter Beard was a youth leader, outdoorsman, artist and author.  Born in Cincinnati, “Uncle Dan” later came to Covington to live in this 1820s Victorian house that is a National Historic Landmark. He inaugurated the Boy Scout movement in 1905, and was one of the first National Commissioners of the Boys Scouts of America.  He was awarded the first medal for outstanding citizenship in the state of Kentucky.

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Daniel Carter Beard (1850-1941)

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boyhood home of Daniel Carter Beard

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Covington home

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Legacy Financial Advisors

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Covington street art

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Blinkers Tavern

It was a quiet and simple beauty we found in this town across from a modern big city, a non-pretentious town that sat on the dividing line between North and South during the Civil War and that today serves as a bridge between the different attitudes that make up the once-opposing regions.

*Monday, March 4, 2019*

*Steps, 13,479, or 5.71 miles*

*********************

“PHOTOGRAPHY” INVITATION:  I invite you to create a photography intention and then create a blog post for a place you have visited. Alternately, you can post a thematic post about a place, photos of whatever you discovered that set your heart afire. You can also do a thematic post of something you have found throughout all your travels: churches, doors, people reading, people hiking, mountains, patterns, all black & white, whatever!

In my case, my intention was to look for thematic possibilities during my Midwestern Triangle Road trip.  We took an icy cold walk around Covington, Kentucky, just south of the Ohio River and Cincinnati, Ohio, where I looked to find “beauty in simplicity.”

You probably have your own ideas about this, but in case you’d like some ideas, you can visit my page: photography inspiration.

I challenge you to post no more than 20-25 photos (I have a lot more here!) and to write less than 1,500 words about any travel-related photography intention you set for yourself. Include the link in the comments below by Wednesday, September 4 at 1:00 p.m. EST.  When I write my post in response to this challenge on Thursday, September 5, I’ll include your links in that post.

This will be an ongoing invitation, every first, second, and third (& 5th, if there is one) Thursday of each month. Feel free to jump in at any time. 🙂

I hope you’ll join in our community. I look forward to reading your posts!

the ~ wander.essence ~ community

I invite you all to settle in and read a few posts from our wandering community.  I promise, you’ll be inspired!

  • Ulli, of Suburban Tracks, posted about his trip to Budweis and Cesky Krumlov in Bohemia.
    • BOHEMIAN STREET-DREAMS
  • Jude, of life at the edge, posted some gorgeous photos of Trebah garden, all abloom with hydrangeas.
    • Looking Good in the Garden

Thanks to all of you who shared posts on the “photography” invitation. 🙂

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  • American Road Trips
  • Cincinnati
  • Kentucky

man vs. man in cincinnati & louisville

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 August 27, 2019

Every day since our current president and the Republican party came into power in the U.S. in 2016, man’s hatred for man is in my face.  I wake up to it and it hounds me all day, on the internet, in my email inbox, on TV, even on comedy shows.  There is no escaping the angst and disillusionment I feel every hour of the day due to this hatred swirling around.

On top of the daily assault, I came face to face with the issue in two fantastic museums in Louisville, Kentucky and Cincinnati, Ohio in late February and early March of this year.  At the Muhammad Ali Center and the National Underground Railroad Freedom Center, I learned how man has been fighting against man throughout history, through war, slavery, racism, and sport.

At the Muhammad Ali Center in Louisville, I watched an excellent movie and exhibits about the famous boxer, Muhammad Ali. In his early days, he had quite an ego, and plenty of gusto, confidence, and bravado, but he grew into a man who lived by his convictions.

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Muhammad Ali Center

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Muhammad Ali Center

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Muhammad Ali Center overlooking the Ohio River

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Muhammad Ali Center

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Muhammad Ali Center

Muhammad Ali, whose boxing career spanned the period from 1960-1981, talked about walking down the streets of Louisville, Kentucky and seeing signs forbidding “Negroes” from going to a show or eating in restaurants, despite the fact that they’d been working 310 years for America, sixteen hours a day without pay and fighting all the wars for the country. A century after emancipation, black resentment seethed, as blacks were still segregated and weren’t able to reap the freedoms, justice and equality promised by the U.S. Constitution.

Another exhibit showed white entitlement: “I see the Negro stepping on my rights.  He is asking for more than is justifiably his,” said a financial manager in California.

Protestors adopted the non-violent resistance of Gandhi and Thoreau, interlaced with Christian principles. They quietly occupied and boycotted a Woolworth’s lunch counter in North Carolina. They took their battles to bus depots and train stations, insisting they had the right to interstate travel. They worked relentlessly to register to vote under draconian anti-registration tactics.  They boycotted on the streets with signs: END SEGREGATION RULES IN PUBLIC SCHOOLS. AMERICA IS A POLICE STATE FOR THE BLACK MAN.  Martin Luther King led protestors and made his “I Have a Dream” speech, inspiring thousands.

Finally, they realized America wouldn’t come around. Non-violent resistance was replaced with self-defense and fierce retaliation.  Black Power emerged, declaring black identity, dignity and racial self-respect.  They began to think the only thing white people could understand was violence. Then on April 3, 1968, Martin Luther King was assassinated with a sniper’s bullet.  Riots broke out.

On April 4, 1968, Robert Kennedy said “What we need in the United States is not division; what we need in the United States is not hatred, what we need in the United States IS NOT VIOLENCE OR LAWLESSNESS; BUT LOVE AND WISDOM AND COMPASSION toward one another, and a feeling of justice toward those who still suffer within our country, whether they be white or they be black.” Two months later, Kennedy was also assassinated.

In the 1960s, the baby boom generation began to voice its views, to stand up for civil rights, social justice, cultural change, and political freedoms. The climate steamed with challenges to government policy, cultural values and social norms.

Muhammad Ali differentiated his boxing in the ring, a sport of man vs. man, by saying that in the ring there was a referee, three judges, an ambulance and doctors.  He insisted it was not one nation against another or one race against another, or one religion against another.  He called it the “art of boxing.”

Ali fought relentlessly throughout his life, for civil rights for African-Americans and against the Vietnam War, refusing to serve in the army when drafted; he considered himself a conscientious objector.

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In Cincinnati, I visited the National Underground Railroad Freedom Center, whose mission is to eradicate modern-day slavery.  Here, I learned about all the enslaved people in the world today, sex trafficking, the history of slavery in the Americas, the Civil War and the Emancipation Proclamation, the economic and other justifications for slavery (greed!), and the brave people who fought not only against slavery, but also against dehumanizing behavior by white people toward people of color.

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National Underground Railroad Freedom Center

I learned 12 million children are trafficked each day, for labor, sex or soldiering.

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Slavery around the world

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graffiti about freedom

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National Underground Railroad Freedom Center

I learned that as recently as 2005, Alexandre Dos Reis shoveled charcoal, converted to pig iron and used to make steel for automobiles and appliances, in a Brazilian rain forest camp.  He worked 6 days a week in tropical heat and slept in a windowless shack; his toilet was any patch of ground around. A labor inspector called it out for what it was: slavery.

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slave shoveling charcoal

I learned that nearly 220 million children under age 18 are common laborers and of that number about 20 million work in factories and fields; many are exploited and mistreated.  Eighty million African children are currently working.  Children as young as 13 are forced into militias, in places such as Sierra Leone, and forced to kill.

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child slaves

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The museum defines what slavery is.

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Modern day slavery defined

I learned the economic justifications for slavery — greed and the demand for inexpensive goods and services. The workers who make these products ares seen as dispensable, and employers keep wages low.  Some $21 billion is extracted from workers annually through forced labor; adding commercial sex exploitation, coerced labor surpasses $30 billion per year. Annual elicit profits from sex exploitation in London alone equals £53 million – or about $80 million.

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Costin

I learned of the horrible and long history of slavery. The Transatlantic Slave Trade (1500-1886) compelled millions of unwilling Africans to the Americas.

In America, between 1790 and 1860, the number of enslaved people in America grew from about 790,000 to 4 million people. Most eastern cities had slave markets, including Washington, Richmond and Charleston.  Thriving slave markets grew along the river routes and former westward Indian routes, such as in Louisville, Lexington, Memphis and Natchez.  New Orleans was the largest slave market in the south, mostly selling women as domestic servants or as prostitutes.

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slaves and their captors

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white men in the slave trade

The primary crops of the American slave societies were sugar, tobacco, rice, and cotton, which needed as much slave labor as possible.  The growth of these crops fueled the slave trade.  Slavery involved brutalities of every possible sort, including the branding, beating, whipping, and scarring of human beings being treated like “chattel” or property.  Practices were barbaric but were allowed to continue because slave owners were politically powerful in Congress.

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tobacco

The Declaration of Independence, drafted by Thomas Jefferson, a wealthy Virginia slave owner, in 1776, was largely an indictment of the King of England, justifying the Revolution against English rule.  It proclaimed that “all men are created equal” and that they had the right to “Life, Liberty, and the Pursuit of Happiness.”  The language was intended to justify American Independence from Britain, but could have been seen as a justification for slaves revolting against their masters.

Free black people moved into the northwest territories, establishing settlements in cities such as Cincinnati, and farms in rural locations as well.  These people eventually aided runaway slaves escaping from the nearby states of Kentucky, Virginia and elsewhere.  Black churches, schools, benevolent societies and other institutions established by free blacks in New England and the Mid-Atlantic states aided runaways to escape and to remain free.  Though blacks were legally free in these areas, they still experienced racial discrimination and white violence.

Free black men became activists against slavery. James Forten (1766-1842) invented a sail that made guiding ships easier and became one of the wealthiest men in Philadelphia.  His fortune allowed him to buy the freedom of many enslaved people, and he donated money to start and maintain abolitionist newspapers, including The Liberator, established by William Lloyd Garrison, a white man who also spent his life fighting for women’s suffrage, temperance, and pacifism.  Elijah Parish Lovejoy (1802-1837) formed an anti-slavery newspaper, originally the St. Louis Observer; three presses were destroyed by an anti-abolitionist mob in Alton, Illinois, and he was shot in the last incident.

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printing press

Pro-slavery advocates argued that slavery was a “necessary evil.”  They found Biblical references for their position, especially in the Old Testament. Others argued that Christian planters had brought the “heathen” Africans to the true religion. Others feared possible retaliation by the slaves and felt that emancipation required sending the slaves somewhere else, such as Africa or South America.

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Justifications for Slavery

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slave exhibit

With the election of Abraham Lincoln in 1860, South Carolina seceded from the Union and formed “The Confederate States of America,” with Jefferson Davis as their president. When South Carolina demanded the surrender of Fort Sumter and then attacked it on April 12, 1861, the Civil War began.

President Lincoln released the Emancipation Proclamation in 1863, in the middle of the Civil War. He declared the freedom of all slaves within Confederate territories not under Union control by January 1, 1863. It did not free slaves within the border states of Delaware, Kentucky, Maryland, Missouri or West Virginia nor did it free slaves in Confederate territories under Union control.  It was intended to disrupt and weaken the Confederacy’s will to fight, and to eliminate the possibility of foreign intervention on the Confederacy’s behalf. The proclamation made clear that the U.S. Army was fighting a war of liberation.

Slavery was not legally dead until the passage of the 13th amendment to the U.S. Constitution in late 1865.

The Anderson Slave Pen is one of many structures strewn throughout the mid-South.  These pens or jails were used to hold slaves – for days, weeks, or even months – as they were force-marched south. Inside them, the enslaved endured brutal conditions, chained together, often strangers to each other, shackled in place, sometimes forced to relieve themselves where they were.

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Anderson Slave Pen

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Anderson Slave Pen

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quilt about slavery

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mural about slavery

I learned about brave people who helped slaves to escape from the south via the Underground Railroad.  I learned of the places where they hid, in existing root cellars and other out-of-the-way rooms, which sheltered them until they could move closer to freedom.   People developed signals indicating when it was safe to approach their homes: a row of white bricks in the chimney, a lantern burning on a pole, a flag in the hand of a small statue in the front yard. Runaways would say they’d been sent by “the friend of a friend.”

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safe houses

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routes on the Underground Railroad

Some “conductors” – people who guided runaways to safe houses – made secret hiding places in their wagons, creating “false bottoms” under which slaves could hide.

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Wagon with “false bottom”

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Josiah Henson’s words

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Harriet Tubman’s words

I learned of brave people like Rosa Parks, John Brown, and so many others who fought not only against slavery but also dehumanizing behavior by white people toward people of color.

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famous people

Famous blacks worked for the cause, such as Absalom Jones (1746-1818), who, after buying his way out of slavery, founded the Free African Society, and led the struggle to give Afro-Americans control over their religious worship.  John Jea, who gained his freedom after the Revolutionary War, became an itinerant Methodist minister and worked tirelessly against slavery. Frederick Douglass (c. 1817-1895) was highly discouraged by the Fugitive Slave Act in 1850 and by the Dred Scott Supreme Court decision, but was galvanized by the Civil War; he lobbied with President Lincoln and others for the recruitment of colored soldiers.

John Brown (1800-1859) was a white man whose mission in life was the anti-slavery cause. In 1859, with 20 men, he raided the federal arsenal at Harper’s Ferry, Virginia in hopes of gaining weapons for a slave uprising.  However, most of his men were killed by a band led by Colonel Robert E. Lee, and he was tried for treason, convicted, and executed.

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chains of slavery

I got to do the Rosa Parks experience, a virtual experience where I took the place of Rosa Parks and saw through her eyes the people on the bus on December 1, 1955 (I was 36 days old at that time).  I wanted to spit in those white men’s faces.  Rosa Parks was very kind and dignified in her refusal to move.

What a shameful history we have in our country!

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The Rosa Parks Experience

The saga of man against man will, I fear, continue until humans are eradicated from the planet by their own doing. It’s hard to have hope that humanity’s basest instincts will ever change, as evidenced by current events in our world.  I can dream, I suppose, that people will wake up and learn to love and accept people who are different than they are, people of all religions, races, cultures, sexes, sexual preferences and political beliefs.  But my hope is dwindling to a thin frayed thread.

**********************

“PROSE” INVITATION: I invite you to write up to a post on your own blog about a recently visited particular destination (not journeys in general). Concentrate on any intention you set for your prose.

In this case my intention was to write a post reflecting on a theme for the day.  My theme for today was “man vs. man.”

It doesn’t matter whether you write fiction or non-fiction for this invitation.  You can either set your own writing intentions, or use one of the prompts I’ve listed on this page: writing prompts: prose. (This page is a work in process.) You can also include photos, of course.

Include the link in the comments below by Monday, September 9 at 1:00 p.m. EST.  When I write my post in response to this invitation on Tuesday, September 10, I’ll include your links in that post.

This will be an ongoing invitation. Feel free to jump in at any time. 🙂

I hope you’ll join in our community. I look forward to reading your posts!

the ~ wander.essence ~ community

I invite you all to settle in and read a few posts from our wandering community.  I promise, you’ll be inspired. 🙂

  • Jude, of life at the edge, wrote a sensuous post about a drowsy summer day.
    • listen…

Thanks to all of you who wrote prosaic posts following intentions you set for yourself. 🙂

 

 

 

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  • Camino de Santiago
  • Europe
  • Hikes & Walks

{camino day 31} león to valverde de la virgen

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 August 25, 2019

The walk out of León was an ordeal mainly because I was walking on city streets and through industrial areas.  I left my hostel at 8:30 because I knew it was to be a short walk, but I first stopped at a cafe near the León Cathedral for a pain au chocolat and cafe con leche.  I walked through the craft market, closed in the morning but occupying every street and made my way past the inviting Parador San Marcos, with its Plaasteresque edifice.  Originally a more modest pilgrim hospital built by Doña Sancha in the 12th century, it became the headquarters of the Knights of the Order of Santiago, formed to protect the pilgrim way.  Later, it was acquired and further embellished by King Ferdinand. The facade is embellished with pilgrim motifs and scallop shells.

Leaving the central city, we crossed over the 16th century stone Puente (bridge) over the río Bernesga.

León to Puente río Bernesga (2.3 km)

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León Cathedral

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merry-go-round in the craft market

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Parador San Marcos

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Parador San Marcos

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río Bernesga

After the bridge, I made my way through León’s busy suburbs until I reached the open countryside of the páramo, or treeless plateau, until I reached a pilgrim cross and pedestrian bridge.

Puente río Bernesga to Cruce (2.8 km)

Then it was uphill past some bodegas, or underground wine cellars, and the endless industrial area until I found a cafe at La Virgen del Camino.  Darina showed up then.

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coffee shop in León suburbs

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bodegas

La Virgen del Camino

At the end of La Virgen del Camino was the big modern Sanctuary of Virgen del Camino, built in the 1960s.  The sanctuary was built on the site where a shepherd saw a vision of the Virgin in the 16th century; she told him to throw a stone and then build a church on the spot where it landed. Apparently miracles were performed here and it became a pilgrimage in its own right.

Darina and I went inside.  The façade of the shrine represents the “mysteries of the Rosary in bronze,” according to a sanctuary pamphlet.  The huge bronze statue of the 12 Apostles stand above the west door with St. James looking out toward Santiago and the Virgin hovering above them all.

The Baroque altarpiece is from 1730. At the back of the church is a wall-to-wall stained glass window.

The bell tower outside measures 53 meters and represents the last station of the cross. At its base is a large stone symbolizing Christ’s tomb. It was interesting to find a modern church; I hadn’t seen too many of those on the Camino.

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Sanctuary of Virgen del Camino – “mysteries of the Rosary in bronze”

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Sanctuary of Virgen del Camino

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Sanctuary of Virgen del Camino – Baroque altarpiece

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bell tower at Sanctuary of Virgen del Camino

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Sanctuary of Virgen del Camino

Cruce to Option (3.4 km)

After we left the town at the end of the urban sprawl, Darina took the alternate route and I continued along the roadway to Valverde de la Virgen, where I had made a reservation.  From this point, I walked along a road for the remaining 3.4 km.

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optional route – Darina to the left, me to the right

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pilgrim statue just past the optional path

Option to Valverde de la Virgen (3.4 km)

Each day on the Camino, you don’t know what you’ll encounter as you walk in the footsteps of thousands of pilgrims. Sometimes you find pleasant surprises such as the oasis of my albergue, La Casa del Camino: Albergue de Peregrinos.

Though it sits along a busy road, it was a beautiful spot with couches and comfy chairs, lounge chairs, hammocks, and beds on the lawn for lounging.   There were areas under canopies and umbrellas and a line of square foot baths, and the most welcoming owners you could ever meet. When I arrived, they presented me with a glass of cold fresh orange juice as they checked me in.

Bowls of apples sat on tables, flower boxes and hanging baskets dotted the space around an above-ground swimming pool (with no water), gardens bloomed, and Buddhas reclined and sat, looking serene.

I sat outside having a glass of wine and one of the owners brought me a small bowl of peanuts.

When I have happened upon places such as these, I felt so joyful and grateful for the peaceful and refreshing surroundings.

This place rates up with a number of top albergues along the Camino.  There are a fair share of bad and mediocre ones.

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La Casa del Camino: Albergue de Peregrinos

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La Casa del Camino: Albergue de Peregrinos

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La Casa del Camino: Albergue de Peregrinos

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La Casa del Camino: Albergue de Peregrinos

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La Casa del Camino: Albergue de Peregrinos

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foot baths at the albergue

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La Casa del Camino: Albergue de Peregrinos

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me in the hammock with one blackened toenail and two taped toes

The pilgrim meal at the albergue was lovely, but sadly, I forgot to write anything about it so I don’t remember the food or the conversation. 😦

**********

*Day 31: Thursday, October 4, 2018*

*18,451 steps, or 7.82 miles: León to Valverde de la Virgen (11.6 km)*

You can find everything I’ve written so far on the Camino de Santiago here:

  • Camino de Santiago 2018

**************

On Sundays, I post about hikes or walks that I have taken in my travels; I may also post on other unrelated subjects. I will use these posts to participate in Jo’s Monday Walks or any other challenges that catch my fancy.

This post is in response to Jo’s Monday Walk: Vila Franca do Campo.

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  • American books
  • American Road Trips
  • Anticipation

anticipation & preparation: road trip to nowhere

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 August 23, 2019

To prepare for my Road Trip to Nowhere, I started off by reading Off the Beaten Path: The Dakotas – a guide to unique places (****) by Lisa Meyers McClintick and then Nebraska: Off the Beaten Path by Diana Lambdin Meyer (****).  I marked the places that sounded interesting on a road atlas.  I also found some interesting recommendations for North Dakota in Midwest Living: 20 Top Things to Do in North Dakota, and South Dakota in Midwest Living: 20 Things to Do in South Dakota.

I plotted out all the places I wanted to stop on the state maps in my atlas.

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Nebraska

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South Dakota

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North Dakota

On my way out west, I’ll stop in Ohio to see Hopewell Culture National Historic Park in Chillicothe, and then the William Howard Taft National Historic Site, which I missed when I was in Cincinnati.  The next night, I’ll stop in Springfield, Illinois to see the Lincoln Home National Historic Site.

I’ll begin the official road trip in the southeast corner of Nebraska, then north along the east sides of South Dakota and North Dakota, across the top, then south along the west side of North Dakota, South Dakota and northwest Nebraska.  Mostly, I will miss the middle areas of all three states.

At that time I’ll veer west to Cheyenne, Wyoming and then south to Denver, Colorado to visit my son.  Then I’ll drive back across the south of Nebraska, stop in St. Louis, Missouri, then in Carbondale, Illinois to visit my sister, then home by way of Greeneville, Tennessee.

I also made a loose map on MapQuest which shows the general route of the trip.

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Road Trip to Nowhere

Itinerary: It took me a good long while to create my itinerary.  I’m not booking much ahead, but will leave some flexibility for schedule changes.  I’m sure I’m way too ambitious, but I’ll have to drop things if it becomes too busy!

  1. September 1: Virginia to Cincinnati, Ohio
    • Hopewell Culture NHP
    • Howard Taft National Historic Site
  2. September 2: Springfield, Illinois
    • Lincoln Home NHS
    • Nebraska City – Lewis & Clark Interpretive Trails and Visitor Center
  3. September 3-4: Omaha, Nebraska
    • Old Market / Joslyn Art Museum / Girls and Boys Town / Malcolm X birthsite / President Gerald Ford’s birthsite / Fort Atkinson
  4. September 5: Norfolk, Nebraska
    • DeSoto National Wildlife Refuge / Tower of the Four Winds (Blair)
    • Oakland: Swedish Town
    • Madison: Madison Co. Historical Society Museum (Orphan Train and pencil collection)
    • Lewis & Clark Visitor Center – Calumet Bluff
    • Norfolk: Elkhorn Valley Museum & Research Center (Johnny Carson) / Willetta Lueshen Bird Library
  5. September 6-7: Sioux Falls, SD
    • Yankton: 2 hour visit: Walk historic Meridian Bridge / Mulberry Bend Overlook
    • Vermillion: Historic downtown / National Music Museum / Lewis & Clark Historic Trail (Hwy 1804 & 1806) / Spirit Mound Historic Prairie
    • Sioux Falls: Falls Park (Terrace Park, Japanese Gardens, Fawick Park, 5-story observation tower, sculpture walk) / St. Joseph’s Cathedral Historic District / Old Courthouse Museum (16 murals) / Queen City Mercantile – Zandbroz Variety / Washington Pavilion of Arts and Sciences – Visual Arts Center
  6. September 8: Watertown, SD
    • Mitchell: Corn Palace / Case Art Gallery: “Dakota Woman” / Mitchell Public Library – Dome mural
    • De Smet: real setting for Little House on the Prairie
    • Brookings: South Dakota Art Museum – “The Prairie is My Garden” by Harvey Dunn / South Dakota Agricultural Heritage Museum (farm equipment)
    • Watertown: Redlin Art Center / Watertown Driving Tour / Historic downtown
  7. September 9: Fargo, ND
    • Sisseton: Sica Hollow State Park (Trail ride with Prairie Sky Ranch) / Joseph N. Nicollet Tower & Interpretive Center (75-ft observation tower)
    • Fargo: Bonanzaville / downtown Fargo / Plains Art Museum / Hotel Donaldson (rooftop gathering place)
    • Moorhead, MN: Go across the river from Fargo to the Hjemkomst Heritage Center
  8. September 10: Jamestown, ND
    • Valley City: Sheyenne Valley National Scenic Byway / Highline Bridge
    • Jamestown: World’s Largest Buffalo / National Buffalo Museum / Frontier Village (Louis L’Amour)
  9. September 11: Bottineau, ND
    • Carrington: Arrowhead National Wildlife Refuge / Hawk’s Nest
    • Devil’s Lake: Sully’s Hill National Game Preserve
    • Dunseith: Wee’l Turtle: statue made from 2,000 tire rims
    • Bottineau: International Peace Garden
  10. September 12: Bismarck, ND
    • Minot: Scandinavian Heritage Center
    • Washburn: Fort Mandan / Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center / Knife River Indian Villages
    • Mandan: Fort Abraham Lincoln State Park (Custer’s home) / On-a-Slant Village / Five Nations Art Museum
    • Bismarck: State Capitol / North Dakota Cultural Center
  11. September 13: Watford City, ND
    • Regent: Enchanted Highway
    • Dickinson: (Dinosaur Museum) / Joachim Regional Museum
    • Fort Union Trading Post National Historic Site
  12. September 14-15: Medora, SD
    • Theodore Roosevelt National Park (north unit)
    • North Dakota Cowboy Hall of Fame (entrance to Theodore Roosevelt National Park)
    • Theodore Roosevelt National Park (south unit) / Elkhorn Ranch site
    • Chateau de Mores State Historic Site, Medora
  13. September 16: Deadwood, SD
    • Belle Forche: Official market “Stone Johnnie” – geographical center of U.S. / Slim Buttes: section of forest limestone split by canyons / Slim Buttes Battlefield
    • Spearfish: Spearfish Canyon National Scenic byway / Termesphere Gallery
    • Deadwood: old town
  14. September 17-18: Interior, SD
    • Sturgis: Sturgis Motorcycle Museum & Hall of Fame
    • Bear Butte State Park (6 mi. NE of Sturgis)
    • Wall: Wall Drug Store / Wounded Knee Museum
    • Badlands Petrified Gardens
    • Minuteman Missile National Historic Site
  15. September 19-21: Rapid City, SD
    • Badlands National Park: Ben Reifel Visitor Center: Hikes: Fossil Trail, Castle Trail, Door Trail, Notch Trail
    • Take scenic route to Rapid City (Rt. 44)
    • Rapid City: Downtown / Art Alley / Prairie Edge Trading Co. & Galleries / City of Presidents
    • Chapel in the Hills (5 miles out) & Norwegian Log Cabin Museum
    • Black Hills
    • Mount Rushmore National Memorial / Crazy Horse Memorial
    • Custer State Park: 66-mile Peter Norbeck Scenic Byway, 18-mi Wildlife Loop Road, 14-mile Needles Highway & Iron Mountain Road, Best overlooks: Mt. Coolidge, Heddy Draw Overlook
    • Jewel Cave National Monument
    • Wind Cave National Park
    • Hot Springs: Mammoth Site: Black Hills Wild Horse Sanctuary (2 hour bus tour) / Sage Meadow Ranch (trail rides by reservation)
  16. September 22: Scottsbluff, NE

    • Toadstool Geological Park, NE
    • Crawford: Fort Robinson Museum / Sowbelly Canyon ?
    • Agate Fossil Beds National Monument (rattlesnakes!!!)
    • Bayard: Chimney Rock National Historic Site (NE)
    • Scotts Bluff National Monument (landmark along Oregon Trail) / Legacy of the Plains Museum in Gering
  17. September 23-24: Cheyenne, WY
    • Kimball: Panorama Point
    • Cheyenne: The Cowgirls of the West Museum / Cheyenne Botanic Gardens / Vedauwoo Recreation Area in Southeastern Wyoming / Paramount Ballroom / Nagle Warren Mansion
  18. September 25: Fort Collins, CO
    • Horsetooth Mountain Open Space (hike)
    • New Belgium Brewing Co.
  19. September 26-27: Denver, CO
    1. ALEX: Flatirons Hike.  Who knows what else?
  20. September 28: Grand Island, NE
    • Ogallala, NE: Front Street – Old West Town
    • North Platte: Buffalo Bill Scouts Rest Ranch State Historical Park (horseback rides?) / Fort Cody Trading Post (I-80 & I-83) / Cody Park (life-size bronze statue of Buffalo Bill)
    • Elm Creek: Chevy U.S.A. Antique Car & Cycle Museum
    • Kearney: Museum of Nebraska Art
    • Grand Island: Stuhr Museum of the Prairie Pioneer / Studio K Art Gallery / Coney Island Lunch Room / G.I. Auto Body
  21. September 29: Lincoln, NE
    • Hastings: Hastings Museum of Natural and Cultural History (wing about Kool-Aid) / bronze sculptures on 2nd Street
    • Red Cloud: Willa Cather State Historic Site
    • Beatrice: Homestead National Monument of America
    • Lincoln: Nebraska State Capitol / Nine Mile Prairie / Spring Creek Prairie
  22. September 30: Carbondale, IL
    1. St. Louis: Ulysses S. Grant National Historic Site
    2. Visit my sister!
  23. October 1-2: Carbondale, IL
    1. Visit Steph.
  24. October 3: Greeneville, TN
    1. Andrew Johnson National Historic Site
  25. October 4: Home

To get in the mood for the vast plains through which I’ll traverse, I’ve been reading a number of books set in Nebraska, South Dakota and North Dakota.  My favorites so far have been Dalva by Jim Harrison and O Pioneers! by Willa Cather.  Below is a list of other books set in this area.  The ones I’ve finished have a star rating and a link; the others I am either currently reading or haven’t read.

Nebraska books
Nebraska books
North Dakota books
North Dakota books

Books to read:

  • North Dakota
    1. Love Medicine by Louise Erdrich (1984) ***
    2. The Beet Queen by Louise Erdrich (1985) (currently reading)
    3. The Antelope Wife by Louise Erdrich (1998)
    4. The Last Report on the Miracles at Little No Horse by Louise Erdrich (2000)
    5. The Master Butcher’s Singing Club by Louise Erdrich (2003)
    6. The Plague of Doves by Louise Erdrich (2008)
    7. The Round House by Louise Erdrich (2012)
    8. LaRose by Louise Erdrich (2016)
    9. The Bingo Palace by Louise Erdrich (2017)
    10. The Grass Dancer by Susan Power ***
    11. The Horizontal World: Growing Up in the Middle of Nowhere by Debra Marquart (currently reading)
    12. Beyond the Bedroom Wall by Larry Woiwode
    13. Those Days by Richard Critchfield
  • South Dakota
    1. Dakota: A Spiritual Geography by Kathleen Norris ****
    2. Black Hills by Nora Roberts ***
    3. The Personal History of Rachel DuPree by Ann Weisgarber (currently reading)
    4.  A Long Way from Home by Tom Brokaw
    5. Lakota Woman by Mary Crow Dog, Richard Erdoes
    6. In the Spirit of Crazy Horse: The Story of Leonard Peltier and the FBI’s War on the American Indian Movement by Peter Matthiessen
    7. The Bones of Plenty by Lois Phillips Hudson
    8. The Removes by Tatjana Soli
  • Nebraska
    1. O Pioneers! (Great Plains Trilogy #1) by Willa Cather ****
    2. My Ántonia (Great Plains Trilogy #3) by Willa Cather (currently reading)
    3. Dalva (Dalva #1) by Jim Harrison *****
    4. The Road Home (Dalva #2) by Jim Harrison
    5. The Last Time We Say Goodbye by Cynthia Hand
    6. Worth Dying For (Jack Reacher) by Lee Child
    7. Goodnight, Nebraska by Tom McNeal
    8. Crazy Horse: The Strange Man of the Oglalas by Mari Sandoz
    9. Old Jules by Mari Sandoz
    10. Nebraska Off the Beaten Path by Diana Lambdin Meyer ****
  • Ohio:
    1. Cincinnati
      1. Eligible by Curtis Sittenfield ***

Here are some movies set in this area. The ones with links and star ratings are the ones I have seen.

North Dakota:

  1. Fargo (1996) ***
  2. Lewis and Clark: The Journey of the Corps of Discovery by Ken Burns (1997) *****
  3. Wooly Boys (2001) ***
  4. Flight of the Red Tail (2009)
  5. White Earth (2013)
  6. The Overnighters (2014)
  7. Welcome to Leith (2015)
  8. Bravetown (2015) ****
  9. A Different American Dream (2016)

South Dakota:

  1. Badlands (1973)
  2. Dances with Wolves (1990) ****
  3. Incident at Oglala: The Leonard Peltier Story (1992) ***
  4. Thunderheart (1992)
  5. Lakota Woman (1994)
  6. Crazy Horse (1996)
  7. Bury My Heart at Wounded Knee (2007)
  8. Imprint (2007)
  9. The Revenant (2015)
  10. Songs My Brothers Taught Me (2015)
  11. The Rider (2018)

Nebraska:

  1. The Indian Runner (1991)
  2. O Pioneers! (1992) ***
  3. My Antonia (1995)
  4. Boys Don’t Cry (1999)
  5. About Schmidt (2002) ****
  6. Peacock (2010)
  7. The Descendants (2011) ***
  8. Nebraska (2013) ***
  9. Take Me to the River (2015)
  10. Downsizing (2017)
  11. Tully (2018) ***

I have two playlists that I’ve made up on Spotify:

  1. road trip to nowhere
  2. summertime tunes 2019

I spent a lot of time making up my travel journal.  I’m trying to up my collage and drawing abilities a bit.  Little by little, I hope to improve.

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my journal, camera and atlas map of Nebraska and the book: The Horizontal World

title page
title page
South Dakota page
South Dakota page
South Dakota
South Dakota
North Dakota
North Dakota
Enchanted Highway in North Dakota
Enchanted Highway in North Dakota

And of course, I made up my creative intentions for the trip.

Intentions for my Road Trip to Nowhere
Intentions for my Road Trip to Nowhere
Intentions for my Road Trip to Nowhere
Intentions for my Road Trip to Nowhere

************************

“ANTICIPATION & PREPARATION” INVITATION: I invite you to write a post on your own blog about anticipation & preparation for a particular destination (not journeys in general). If you don’t have a blog, I invite you to write in the comments. Include the link in the comments below by Thursday, September 26 at 1:00 p.m. EST.  When I write my post in response to this challenge on Friday, September 27, I’ll include your links in that post.

This will be an ongoing invitation, on the 4th Friday of each month. Feel free to jump in at any time. 🙂  If you’d like to read more about the topic, see: journeys: anticipation & preparation.

I hope you’ll join in our community. I look forward to reading your posts!

the ~ wander.essence ~ community

I invite you all to settle in and read posts from our wandering community. I promise, you’ll be inspired!

  • Indra, of TravTrails wrote about her anticipation & preparation, and a lot more, for her visit Prince Edward Island in 2017.
    • PIE IN THE OCEAN

Thanks to all of you who wrote posts about anticipation and preparation. 🙂

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  • American Road Trips
  • challenge: a call to place
  • Colorado

call to place: the road trip to nowhere

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 August 22, 2019

I first got the idea to take a road trip through the Dakotas and Nebraska from a book called Moon: Road Trip USA: Cross-Country Adventures on America’s Two-Lane Highways by Jamie Jensen.  I was curious about the title of a road trip in the book – “The Road to Nowhere” – that cut right through the center of the U.S.A. on Route 83, a “must-do long-distance byway – transnavigating this broad, odd nation, without once grazing a conventional tourist destination.”  The road trip in the book goes from Canada to Old Mexico, cutting straight through North and South Dakota, Nebraska, Kansas, Oklahoma and Texas.

However, the more I read about this particular road trip, the more I wanted to deviate from it.  I wanted to see some of the national parks in North and South Dakota.  I wanted to explore parts of Nebraska and then dip into northern Colorado to visit my eldest son, who lives in Denver.  I didn’t want to travel all the way out west and miss many of the famous spots. So, I edited this trip and made it all about the three northernmost states: North Dakota, South Dakota and Nebraska. I’m still calling it the “Road Trip to Nowhere,” because the places are usually places you see on the way to somewhere else.

I’ll make my way to Omaha, go up the eastern side of Nebraska, South Dakota and North Dakota, then across the north, near the border with Canada, and then south on the western sides of all three states.  I’ll mostly miss the middle of the states because it is logistically challenging for the time I have. From The Washington Post Travel Section, I was also inspired to add Cheyenne, Wyoming to my itinerary: Cheyenne.  From there, I can drop down to Colorado.  Then I can drive back home across the width of Nebraska. On my way home, I can stop to visit my sister in southern Illinois.

After driving across Kansas on my way to the Four Corners last May and then walking across the Meseta on the Camino de Santiago in fall of 2018, I fell in love with dramatic skies and expansive fields of crops.  This is what the Dakotas and Nebraska are supposedly like.

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Big skies on Spain’s Meseta

Another of my sources of inspiration came from a post Pit wrote in his blog: Pit’s Fritztown News.  The blog was about Sioux Falls, South Dakota: SolarEclipseRoadTrip – Day 9 [Sioux Falls/SD: Afternoon in Falls Park]. I was surprised to find such an attractive city in his post.  After visiting the Theodore Roosevelt Inaugural National Historic Site in Buffalo, NY, I fell in love with Teddy Roosevelt and then found many travelers raving about Theodore Roosevelt National Park in North Dakota. Then there is the Mount Rushmore National Memorial, carved with the faces of the presidents, including Teddy.  Then my vision for the road trip expanded to many more parks and memorials in the area.

“The Lewis & Clark Experience” at the Frazier Museum in Louisville, KY ignited my curiosity about the Corps of Discovery, the specially-established unit of the United States Army that formed the nucleus of the Lewis and Clark Expedition from May 1804 to September 1806, and their attempt to find a waterway that connected the Missouri River with the Pacific Ocean.

President Thomas Jefferson asked Merriwether Lewis to head up the expedition, sending him to the American Philosophical Society so he could learn of the natural sciences as well as cultivating the arts. Lewis asked William Clark, age 33, to join; he became Second-Lieutenant but they shared the responsibilities of command. Like Jefferson and Lewis, Clark was from Virginia.  Clark spent his youth on the family plantation and didn’t have a formal education, but he had great wilderness skills, along with strong boating, map-making, leadership and communication skills.

York, the only black man in the party — slave and manservant to William Clark since they were young — developed many of the same wilderness skills as Clark, but his hunting and scouting abilities, along with his great strength, made him integral to the success of the mission.  He was able to communicate with the Indian tribes because they had never seen a black man before and they believed he had great spiritual power.  The Arikara called him “Great Medicine.”

The keelboat was the most important purchase Lewis made; it could carry 12-14 tons of weight.  Among the last of Lewis’s purchases was, Seaman, a large Newfoundland dog, who made the entire journey with the Corps.

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The Lewis & Clark Expedition

One of the places I plan to visit is Fort Mandan in modern-day North Dakota, where the Corps wintered beginning in October 1804. At that time, the Corps had traveled nearly 1,600 miles along the Missouri River at an average rate of 11 miles per day. They had to wait nearly six months to continue their journey.

The Mandan Indians helped them by trading with them and providing them with food for the winter; the tribe was central to the trade network along the Missouri River and even helped in peace talks with the rival Arikara tribe, which eventually failed.

While the Corps wintered, they wrote a long report of their journey, describing plants, animals, Indian relations, and predictions for the months ahead. They recorded temperatures of 40°F below zero at Fort Mandan. Clark, an experienced mapmaker, finished detailed drawings of the Missouri River and surrounds, while Lewis preserved, packed and detailed 108 plant specimens and 68 mineral samples, along with Indian objects like bows and clothing, animal skins and skeletons, for the American Philosophical Society.  They even sent back a few live animals, including a prairie dog.

When the Corps set out again on April 7, 1805 they continued their westward journey while the keelboat headed back to St. Louis with the specimens, eventually making its way back to Thomas Jefferson. A Mandan chief drew maps for the unfamiliar territory ahead and told them they would need help from the Shosone, who had horses vital to mountain crossing.

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Fort Mandan exhibit at the Frazier

Toussaint Charbonneau, a 45-year-old French Canadian fur trader, was living with the Mandan and Hidatsa Indians when the Corps arrived in late 1804.  Charbonneau had two “wives” he’d purchased as slaves; one was the young Shoshone named Sacagawea.  Lewis and Clark hired them as interpreters, seeing the value of the languages they spoke.

Sacagawea, who had been kidnapped from her Shoshone village by a Hidatsa war party, and then was sold to Charbonneau, who referred to her as his “wife,” was only 16 years old and six months pregnant when the Corps first met her.  Sacagawea, along with her newborn baby and husband, shared a tent with Lewis and Clark for most of the journey; her skills and resilience saved the mission more than once.

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Charboneau and Sacajawea

At the Frazier Museum, I briefly encountered some of the legacy of George Armstrong Custer, who rose to fame during the Civil War. He led the U.S. Army Black Hills Expedition that set out on July 2, 1874 from modern day Bismarck, North Dakota, which was then Fort Abraham Lincoln in the Dakota Territory, with orders to travel to the previously uncharted Black Hills of South Dakota. Its mission was to look for suitable locations for a fort, find a route to the southwest, and to investigate the possibility of gold mining.  The expedition set up camp at the site of the future town of Custer; a gold rush ensued which antagonized the Sioux Indians who had been promised protection of their sacred land through Treaties made by the U.S. government.  It was in 1876 during the Indian wars, that Custer and many of his troops would meet their end at the Battle of Little Bighorn in Montana at the hands of the Lakota and Cheyenne.

George Armstrong Custer
George Armstrong Custer
Custer's uniform
Custer’s uniform

I hope to see herds of buffalo through the Dakotas.  The buffalo provided much to the Indian tribes besides meat.  Bones provided tools, knives and arrowheads; hides provided clothing, moccasins and bags; horns provided cups, spoons, toys and powder horns; the bladder provided pouches and medicine bags; buffalo “chips,” or scat, provided fuel for fire.  The native tribes went to dangerous lengths to kill the buffalo including dressing in hides as decoys to lead herds to jump off cliffs, and, when buffalo were stranded on ice blocks that broke as they crossed in winter, jumping from ice block to ice block to retrieve or kill the dead or dying animals.

Custer State Park in South Dakota is home to nearly 1,500 head of North American bison. Commonly known as buffalo, these massive mammals can grow to six feet tall and weigh more than 2,000 pounds.

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Buffalo skull

As the Dakotas are a harsh environment, where farming is difficult and populations are dwindling, I was recently captivated and further inspired by an exhibit about disappearing barns at the Museum of the Shenandoah Valley in Winchester, Virginia.  The exhibit, titled “Ghosts of a Forgotten Landscape” featured atmospheric paintings by Sally Veach. The artist explores the southern breadbasket of the Shenandoah Valley and the difficulty of sustaining traditional farms due to changes in food production and distribution. Because of technological advances in storing hay and grain used to feed livestock, traditional barns with their pitched roofs, cupolas and silos are no longer essential features on the farm. The artist wanted to deeply explore the disappearance and deterioration of barns in the Shenandoah Valley, and man’s continuing struggle for survival, the hardships of taming a wild land, and the relationship between man and nature.

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Harvest Ghost, 2018 by Sally Veach

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“Omnipotence”

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Ascension 6, 2019 by Sally Veach

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Omnipotence, April 2019 by Sally Veach

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painting by Sally Veach

"Flow" by Sally Veach
“Flow” by Sally Veach
"Flow" by Sally Veach
“Flow” by Sally Veach
Painting by Sally Veach
Painting by Sally Veach
"Piercing the Veil," March 2019 by Sally Veach
“Piercing the Veil,” March 2019 by Sally Veach
"Winter Ascension," January 2019 by Sally Veach
“Winter Ascension,” January 2019 by Sally Veach
"Autumn Ascension," November 2018 by Sally Veach
“Autumn Ascension,” November 2018 by Sally Veach

I hope to see writer Willa Cather’s home in Red Cloud, Nebraska, museums featuring western art, western towns such as Sioux Falls, Fargo, Rapid City and Bismarck, kitschy American places such as The Enchanted Highway, the Corn Palace, and Wall Drug, as well as natural places such as the Badlands, caves, the Black Hills, endless prairies and grasses.

From National Geographic:

Prairies are enormous stretched of flat grassland with moderate temperatures, moderate rainfall, and few trees.

When people talk about the prairie, they are usually referring to the golden, wheat-covered land in the middle of North America.  The Great Plains, in the United States and Canada, has some of the world’s most valuable prairies, which grow some of the world’s most important crops. The U.S. states of North Dakota, South Dakota, Montana, Nebraska, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, Wyoming, Colorado, and New Mexico, and the Canadian provinces of Alberta, Manitoba, and Saskatchewan make up the Great Plains.

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prairie in northern Spain

At first, I couldn’t interest a single person in coming with me, so I planned to go it alone. However, my enthusiasm was so infectious that Mike, at the last minute, decided he’d fly out to Rapid City, South Dakota and travel with me to Denver, and then fly back from there. It may not sound that appealing to go on a road trip to NOWHERE, but I’m sure, whether alone or with Mike, I’ll have a grand time. 🙂

********************

“THE CALL TO PLACE” INVITATION: I invite you to write a post on your own blog about what enticed you to choose a particular destination. If you don’t have a blog, I invite you to write in the comments.  If your destination is a place you love and keep returning to, feel free to write about that.  If you want to see the original post about the subject, you can check it out here: imaginings: the call to place.

Include the link in the comments below by Wednesday, September 25 at 1:00 p.m. EST.  My next “call to place” post is scheduled to post on Thursday, September 26.

If you’d like, you can use the hashtag #wanderessence.

This will be an ongoing invitation, on the fourth Thursday of each month. Feel free to jump in at any time.  🙂

I hope you’ll join in our community. I look forward to reading your posts!

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  • Africa
  • Casablanca
  • Europe

on journey: a roundabout route to casablanca

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 August 21, 2019

Thursday, April 4: What a long morning of waiting and wrapping up loose ends.  Mike came home from work early and drove me to the airport. I finally got through security at Washington-Dulles Airport at 3:00 for my 5:20 flight on United Airlines to Rome.  The flight would be 8 hours and 50 minutes. I boarded right on time for once in seat 24K, an aisle seat with slightly more leg room for which I paid extra.

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Waiting to board at Washington-Dulles

I sat beside Nayali, one of a group of 24 Mexican high school students from Chihuahua, Mexico.  The whole group and their three teachers sported black jackets with yellow stripes on the sleeves.  Passengers on the plane, including me, assumed initially they were from an athletic team.

Instead, they were going to Rome for a couple of days of sightseeing and then on to London for two weeks for a big international competition.  Each team of 12 students would be given a challenge to come up with a viable business idea.  They would have six days to create the business then would be given feedback and helpful suggestions about how to make it work.  It all sounded very interesting.  I wished I had been exposed to a program such as this.

For the first two hours of the flight, I watched A Star is Born, with Lady Gaga and Bradley Cooper.  I felt the original with Kris Kristofferson and Barbara Streisand was much better. I didn’t sense much chemistry between the characters.

I had a pasta meal with salad and bread for dinner.  A red wine before dinner.  I passed on the lemon sorbet because I’d taken a Valium and felt I might be on my way to sleep.  I was uncomfortable under the thin blanket, hardly warm in the overly air-conditioned cabin. I forgot my neck pillow which would have helped but then I would have had to carry it all over Morocco and Italy.

The “No Smoking” and the “Fasten Seat Belt” sign came on a couple of times over the North Atlantic whenever we hit turbulence. The flight map showed us over the dark blue Atlantic forever, heading in the direction of Glasgow and London.

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endlessly over the Atlantic

One of the Mexican teachers sitting catty-corner across the aisle from me was watching Green Book with subtitles and I was distracted by it. I’d already seen it so kept recognizing scenes. Nayali curled up sleeping beside me. They had flown from Chihuahua to Houston to Washington, then were going on to Rome.  I imagined they were all beat.

The interior of the plane was so neat and tidy in the beginning, but before long blankets and trash and electronic devices and pillows were all akimbo. Stewardesses kept coming by on trash pickup.

A sheer navy curtain hung between first class and economy, a reminder that mere gossamer separated the upper class from the rest of us.

A constant rush of cool air tried fruitlessly to dissipate the body odors that developed as the night wore on.  Unpleasant odors emanated from people and bathrooms, a general miasma of sourness.

I was wearing baggy black stretchy knit pants much like pajamas, a white long-sleeved knit top with a knot in the front, and a black & white infinity scarf with coral tassels on it. My stomach was feeling cramped since early afternoon.  Sometimes I wondered if it were just the nerves of traveling.

I was feeling a bit depressed because in a text conversation with my oldest son before I left, I mentioned I was heading to Morocco and I never heard a word back.  No “Be Safe!  Have fun!  I love you!” We also hadn’t heard from my youngest for two weeks and had no idea where he was or what he was doing.  I felt hopeless about the whole situation with him and often felt we were throwing him to the wolves. My eldest had threatened to quit his butchery job and do dog walking, which is not a career and simply another dead end job. There was no question we did a horrible job raising them, that we weren’t hard enough on them. We should have insisted they have jobs as soon as they were old enough to work.  I was trying not to let them drag me down because I wanted to enjoy my holiday.  I hoped I could let go.

I ate breakfast of Smooth Chobani Strawberry Yogurt and a warm croissant with strawberry jam as I watched the sunrise out the window.  About an hour and a half from Rome, we went over Limoges, France, with Bordeaux to the southwest and Paris to the north, then were over Marsiglia (Marseille) and then Nice.  Our altitude was 37,012 and time of arrival estimated at 7:59 a.m. Italy time. The outside air temp was -76°F and groundspeed 561 mph.

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Over France

Roma became a big yellow target on the map.

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heading into Rome

Friday, April 5: Once I arrived in Rome at 8:00 a.m., I got my boarding pass for Alitalia to depart at 1:20 p.m.  It would be a 3 hour 15 minute flight to Casablanca with arrival at 3:35 p.m. It was sunny in Rome, but was forecast to be raining in Casablanca.  Since I had a lot of time to kill, I spent the hours hopping from coffee shop to coffee shop, having a café Americano black and later a cappuccino.   I was tempted to eat because I had so much time but the flight included a cold meal, so I felt I should wait.

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coffee shop in Fiumicino Airport, Rome

I sat in various places to watch the world walk and roll by.  A girl with a guitar and backpack.  A Sikh. A woman with hijab and her husband with a skullcap. A lot of Asians – Koreans and Chinese.  Girls and women with wide baggy patterned pants, or leggings or jeans. A lot of frumpy people.  Asians carrying shopping bags from high end shops: Salvatore Ferragamo, Bvlgari, Tod’s, Gucci, Botega Vanetta.  White-haired folks hauling compact carry-ons. A person carrying a turquoise hard case with flowering cacti painted on. A young lady hauling a tiny white fluffy dog in a pet carrier.  Ladies pushing kids in strollers, and one in a wheel chair.  People all on their way to somewhere else.

I couldn’t even go to my gate because they didn’t put it on the board until 12:25.  So I walked around and found another seat.  I watched people wearing fuzzy slippers, sneakers, hiking boots, fancy gilded sneakers. Colors of Benetton popped. The food “street” upstairs had inviting options.  Asians always seemed to be buying stuff.  Folks spoke Italian into cell phones.  A woman’s voice, in a British accent, directed people to board certain flights at specific gates. People wore passport holders around their necks, making for easy access.

I was tired and wished I could get on the plane so I might sleep.

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Fiumicino Airport, Rome

The seats on the Alitalia flight from Rome to Casablanca were tight and uncomfortable. Luckily there were many empty seats.  A Moroccan man had the window seat and me the aisle. I ate a strange lunch of three small cold sandwiches: one hummus and shrimp, one turkey and pressed zucchini, and one with unidentifiable objects; there was a very strange salad with olives and something that looked like potatoes but wasn’t.  A thick yogurt with granola topping. A container of melons, apples and grapes. Peach juice.

IMG_4037

Alitalia into Casablanca

Late in the flight, the Moroccan guy got up to go to the bathroom and didn’t return to his seat. I put up the arm rests and stretched out across all three seats during the last half hour.  It felt so good to stretch out.

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Alitalia into Casablanca

I was surprised by the patchwork of farmland outside the window going into Casablanca.  I don’t know why I expected it to be a desert landscape.

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Alitalia into Casablanca

We arrived in Casablanca at 3:35. I had to wait over an hour in a long snaking and slow-moving line to get through immigration. The immigration guys were flirting with every young woman.  They didn’t bother with me when I finally got to the front. I talked to a young woman heading off for an Intrepid Tour with an itinerary similar to our G-Adventures tour.  They were to meet on Saturday night at 6:00; ours would start Monday night.

My driver, Youssef, was arranged by our Airbnb host, Myriam. He showed me photos of his family, a pretty wife and waladan (two boys). His sons were very young. I enjoyed practicing some Arabic with him, and even went through my French numbers.  It was rather silly, because he spoke French, Arabic, Spanish and a little English, while I am pathetic with languages.

I arrived at our 7th floor Airbnb apartment in Central Casablanca.  The building was a bit derelict, but the apartment was nice enough.  It had a beautiful outdoor patio but the weather wasn’t conducive to enjoying it: cold, rainy and windy.  My friend Susan had arrived earlier and had already walked around and figured out the lay of the land. We went out promptly to explore.  I didn’t bother to shower or change my clothes, only adding my gray hoodie and rain jacket.  I felt rather frumpy, gross and tired.

IMG_4061

rainbow in Casablanca

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rainbow in Casablanca

Oranges and melons beckoned from everywhere, piles of them neatly stacked.  But there was too much trash, marring the city streets.

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market in Casablanca

We walked by lots of cafés with gloomy looking, hen-pecked men staring out, past the Hyatt Regency, through the Old Medina, in search of a restaurant, La Sqala. We got lost, so ended up in a Petit Taxi with a guy who had lived in New York for a long time. The meter came to 9 dirhams, and I gave him 10 (~$1).

The restaurant had such a nice ambience, nestled in the ochre walls of the sqala, an 18th century fortified bastion north of the center. A fountain bubbled with pink flowers floating on the surface.  The rustic interior was bordered by Moroccan arches, with a garden and flower draped trellises.  It was a bit cold despite being wrapped in plastic, yet it was tranquil and atmospheric.

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La Sqala

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La Sqala

Susan ordered chicken tajine and we shared a goat cheese and honey on toast salad with an exotic flavor – maybe cardamom?  No wine or alcohol was available. We dipped warm bread in two red sauces, one mild and one spicy.  A bowl of Moroccan olives, black shriveled and green with pits. We didn’t know where to put the pits but when we asked, we were told to put them into what looked like an ash tray.  I ordered kofta sqala (meatballs) with three oval-shaped mashed potatoes.  The meal was artistically prepared on a rectangular plate.

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kofta sqala & mashed potatoes at La Sqala

When we came out of the restaurant a guy tried to charge us 100 dirhams for a ride back, 10 times what we’d paid earlier! We hopped right out of his taxi and went down the line to the next one; that one quoted us 40 dirhams, saying it was double because it was nighttime. Since we couldn’t identify the address of our Airbnb, we told him to take us to the Hyatt, and he kept saying “5 stars!!” No wonder they wanted to charge us so much; they seemed, mistakenly, to assume we were rich. 🙂

*Thursday & Friday, April 4-5, 2019*

Thursday: 12,492 steps, or 5.29 miles & Friday: 8,917 steps, or 3.78 miles

**********************

“ON JOURNEY” INVITATION: I invite you to write a post on your own blog about the journey itself for a recently visited specific destination. You could write about the journey you hope to take in the year ahead.  If you don’t have a blog, I invite you to write in the comments.

One of my intentions was to use all five senses to describe an experience.

Include the link in the comments below by Tuesday, September 17 at 1:00 p.m. EST.  When I write my post in response to this challenge on Wednesday, September 18, I’ll include your links in that post.

This will be an ongoing invitation, once on the third Wednesday of each month. Feel free to jump in at any time. 🙂

I hope you’ll join in our community. I look forward to reading your posts!

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