After our visit to Assisi, we drove a short distance to Spello, a hilltop town at the edge of Monte Subasio. The buildings of the town glowed with the warm rosy-beige tones of the local pietra rossa stone.
“The return of Francis” – bronze statue in Spello
church in Spello
We walked all around the town in a big circle because we were only able to park for one hour. Some obnoxious Americans, two couples, were being very loud, tossing their Southern twangs in a free-for-all around us. We stepped up our pace to keep our distance from them.
Spello
Spello
Spello
Spello
At the edge of town, we enjoyed a view over the Umbrian plain.
view from Spello
Spello
Spello
Spello
painting on arch in Spello
view from Spello
Spello
painting on a niche in Spello
We stopped for a gelato after our walk. I had Amarena (black cherry) and Mike had Fichi e Noci (figs and walnuts).
gelato 🙂
Spello
We returned to our Airbnb in Perugia and had wine on the patio. I took a long hot bath. Francesco came to replace some light bulbs that were out. We had snacks of cheese, prosciutto, and jarred Asparagi verdi (green asparagus).
Perugia Airbnb kitchen
Perugia Airbnb patio
Perugia Airbnb covered patio
Mike whipped up a dinner of tortellini with salsa fave e pecorino (sauce of fava beans and pecorino) and leftover sausage from lunch.
The following morning, we would leave Perugia and head to Orvieto by way to Spoleto.
Some of the things I planned for my trip to California in January of 2014 were as follows:
Visit my sister in Los Angeles and explore the Venice Walk-Streets at Venice Beach.
Visit a fellow blogger, Rosie, walk to Bob’s Big Boy and attend Poets and Writers LIVE!
See some of the California missions in Ventura and Santa Barbara.
Go to the Santa Barbara Botanic Garden and Stearns Wharf.
Visit Hearst Castle at San Simeon.
Visit my friend Jayne in Danville, near San Francisco.
Go wine tasting with Jayne on the Silverado Trail in Napa Valley.
Drive the 17-Mile Drive at Pebble Beach.
Visit Monterey.
Venice Beach 2014
Venice Walk-Streets 2014
Monterrey, CA 2014
Fog-enshrouded San Francisco 2014
Hearst Castle 2014
Hearst Castle 2014
Mission Ventura
Malibu Seafood
On my way home from China in July of 2015, I also stopped in California. This time, my plans were as follows:
Visit my sister again in Los Angeles.
Explore Anacapa Island, part of Channel Islands National Park, with my sister.
Go with my blogging friend Rosie to Joshua Tree National Park.
Anacapa Island
I didn’t read many books to prepare for my trip to California, but I had read a number in the past and had a huge list of books to choose from (this list is the tip of the iceberg):
California was calling my name. It was January of 2014, and I wanted to get away from the cold winter weather. I also wanted to visit my sister Stephanie and my blogging friend Rosie in Los Angeles, as well as my dearest friend Jayne in San Francisco.
My sister Stephanie in Los Angeles
Steph’s studio
Steph’s art supplies
Rosie and me at Poets & Writers LIVE! in LA
Rosie on a hike near Malibu
Jayne near Pebble Beach
me on the Venice Walk Streets
In July of 2015, I wanted to stop in California to visit my sister on my way home from teaching for a year in China. We planned to visit the Channel Islands during my time there. I would also visit my blogging friend Rosie and we’d go to Joshua Tree National Park together.
I had been to California several times in the distant past. I went on a 3-month road trip in 1979 with my first husband, Bill. That time, we visited Redwood National Forest, Crescent City, Death Valley and Yosemite.
me at Redwood National Forest 1979
Crescent City, CA 1979
Sand dunes at Death Valley
Bill & Lilly at Death Valley
Scotty’s Castle in Death Valley, CA
me on the Devil’s Golf Course, Death Valley, 1979
Yosemite 1979
Since Bill and I lived in Coeur d’Alene, Idaho for four years, from 1980-1984, we took another trip to San Francisco in the early 1980s, probably 1983.
me at Redwood National Forest 1983
Chinatown, San Franciso 1983
Bill and me in Chinatown, San Francisco 1983
San Francisco, CA 1983
San Francisco, CA 1983
San Francisco, CA 1983
me at Alcatraz, 1983
Alcatraz, 1983
Alcatraz, 1983
Alcatraz, 1983
In 2014, I would get to visit my sister and some good friends, and see some places I hadn’t seen on my first couple of trips.
Venice Beach 2014
California blooming 2014
California blooming 2014
the harbor in San Francisco 2014
Pebble Beach near San Francisco 2014
San Francisco 2014
Hearst Castle 2014
Hearst Castle 2014
Mission in Santa Barbara 2014
Mission in Santa Barbara 2014
Bob’s Big Boy 2014
antique cars at Bob’s Big Boy 2014
antique cars at Bob’s Big Boy 2014
Malibu Seafood 2014
In 2015, I’d also visit Stephanie and Rosie, and see a few more places.
Anacapa Island
Joshua Tree National Park
Joshua Tree National Park
Joshua Tree National Park
I would be in California from January 3-13, 2014 and again from July 15-20, 2015.
We had breakfast in our apartment: yogurt, strawberries, granola, orange juice and coffee, although it took Mike a while to figure out the espresso machine. As I am so bad with mechanical things, I always count on him to figure them out. 🙂
We meant to get an early start but didn’t leave until 9:00. We arrived in Assisi at 9:45 and parked on a mountain road on the far side of town.
Assisi is one of the Christian world’s most important pilgrimage sites and home of the Basilica di San Francesco, built in honor of St. Francis (1182-1226).
view of Rocca Maggiore from our parking spot
We walked downhill forever until we were in sight of the Basilica di San Francesco. On the way, we passed the Temple of Minerva, which dates from the first century B.C.
walk downhill through Assisi
Bar de Piazzanova
all about lavender
shop on the way downhill in Assisi
alley in Assisi
Temple of Minerva
mural of the Virgin
Cacio pepe e…
For a restroom break, we stopped at a cafe for a chocolate muffin and Mike had coffee and a pistachio and jam cookie.
a chocolate muffin at a cafe near the Basilica
Basilica di San Francesco
We went in to the Gothic Upper Church, known as the Basilica Superiore (built from 1230-1239), which sits atop the lower one. It has soaring arches and tall stained glass windows (the first in Italy). It is covered floor to ceiling with some of Europe’s finest frescoes. Sadly, no photography was allowed. 😦
The St. Francis fresco cycle is the highlight of the Upper Church. Twenty-eight frescoes depict the life of St. Francis, born in Assisi in 1181, the son of a French noblewoman and a wealthy cloth merchant. He had a troubled youth carousing; he was fascinated with troubadours. After a military expedition to Perugia in 1202, he spent a year in prison. He had planned a military career, but during a long illness in 1206, he heard the voice of God, renounced his father’s wealth, and began a life of austerity in imitation of Christ, preaching and helping the poor.
He traveled around Italy and beyond, performing miracles such as curing the sick, communicating with animals, and spending months praying in a cave like a hermit. He embraced poverty, asceticism, and the beauty of man and nature. He quickly attracted a vast number of followers. He was the first saint to receive the stigmata (wounds in his hand, feet and side corresponding to those of Christ on the cross). He died on October 4, 1226 at the age of 45 in the Porziuncola, a secluded chapel in the woods where he’d first preached the virtue of poverty to his disciples. He was declared patron saint of Italy in 1939 and today the Franciscans make up the largest of the Catholic orders.
Peace was for Francis the greatest ideal, the highest aspiration at the center of his life. The Franciscan Rule asks the friars to do what the Gospel says: “In whatever house they enter, before entering, they should say: Peace to this house!”
It is largely believed Giotto was behind the creation of the frescos, but assistants helped with the execution. Some say he wasn’t involved at all.
The 16th century choir is made of delicate inlaid wood. We went to the saint’s tomb over the small altar in the Crypt Church and the reliquary room as well.
We then went to the Romanesque Lower Church, known as the Basilica Inferiore. Construction began in 1228, just two years after St. Francis’ death, and was completed in a few years. It has low ceilings and a candlelit interior. It embodies the introspective spirit of Franciscan life.
In the first chapel to the left, a fresco cycle by Simone Martini depicts scenes from the life of St. Martin. The main altar has “Three Virtues of St. Francis” (poverty, chastity, and obedience), and “St. Francis’s Triumph.” The main body of the church is decorated by Florentine masters Cimabue, Lorenzetti and Martini.
The entire Basilica was truly magnificent.
Outside, the Courtyard overlooks the 15th-century cloister, the heart of the monastic complex. The courtyard also functioned as a cistern to collect rainwater for 200 monks (which have now dwindled down to about 40).
cloister at Basilica di San Francesco
exiting the Basilica di San Francesco
Basilica di San Francesco
Basilica di San Francesco
view over the Umbrian plains from the Basilica di San Francesco
me at the Basilica di San Francesco
Basilica di San Francesco
St. Francis
an ornate church
inside a church
inside a church
We passed a busy square, the Piazza del Comune, with an elaborate fountain.
fountain in Assisi
On the way to the castle, we stopped in a little church with an exhibition of Virgin Mary images which were meant to be held in hands during prayer. They were beautiful, serene and smooth.
a smooth Virgin Mary to hold in prayer
We stopped into various shops along the way. In one shop, I bought a silk scarf, then I stopped in another shop of the same name and bought two more. The woman there gave us a card for a 10% discount at her family’s Trattoria: Trattoria Spadini.
We then walked up to the castle on the hill, the 14th-century Rocca Maggiore. We had great views of Perugia to the north, the surrounding valleys, and the Basilica from on high.
Rocca Maggiore
Rocca Maggiore
Rocca Maggiore
view of Basilica di Santa Chiara from Rocca Maggiore
View of Basilica di San Francisco from Rocca Maggiore
Rocca Maggiore
Rocca Maggiore
view of Basilica di San Francesco from Rocca Maggiore
view from Rocca Maggiore
view from Rocca Maggiore
Rocca Maggiore
Back down in the town, we visited Trattoria Spadini, where I ordered Zuppa dell a casa: imbrecciata (a soup of mixed vegetables: gluten, barley, spelt, soy, & lupini beans). Mike got “Salsicce Umbre alla griglia, con spicchi di torta al testo a verdura cotta,” or Grilled Umbrian Sausages with wedges of flat bread and cooked spinach.
Trattoria Spadini
me at Trattoria Spadini
Zuppa dell a casa: imbrecciata
Grilled Umbrian sausages with wedges of flat bread and spinach
We then walked around the 13th-century Romanesque Basilica di Santa Chiara with its pink and white striped facade, which frames the piazza’s panoramic view over the Umbrian plains. It is dedicated to St. Clare (1194-1253), one of the earliest and most fervent of St. Francis’s followers and the founder of the Sorelle Povere di Santa Chiara, Order of the Poor Ladies, or Poor Clares, based on the Franciscan monastic order. She is buried in the church’s crypt. It was closed so we didn’t go in.
Basilica di Santa Chiara
view from Basilica di Santa Chiara
Basilica di Santa Chiara
Then we walked back out of the town the same way we came in.
Assisi
Assisi
We stopped into the 13th-century Romanesque Cattedrale di San Rufino, remodeled by Galeazzo Alessi in the 16th century. St. Francis and St. Clare were among those baptized in Assisi’s Cattedrale, which was the main church in town until the 12th-century. St. Rufino was martyred on August 11, 238.
Cattedrale di San Rufino
Cattedrale di San Rufino
inside Cattedrale di San Rufino
inside Cattedrale di San Rufino
inside Cattedrale di San Rufino
inside Cattedrale di San Rufino
inside Cattedrale di San Rufino
inside Cattedrale di San Rufino
Adoro questo posto! (I love this place!)
door decor in Assisi
walking out of Assisi
We retrieved our car and were on our way to Spello.
I started my day in Sioux Falls, South Dakota by having biscuits and gravy for breakfast. It seemed hearty meals were called for in this part of the country.
My first stop was the Cathedral of St. Joseph. Its story began when Catholic missionary priests journeyed into what would become the Dakota Territory. The first of these was Father Pierre Jean De Smet, who began ministering in the region in 1838.
After numerous moves and changes, construction of the new Cathedral got underway by 1915. World War I hindered progress by creating a shortage of skilled workers and materials. The cathedral was finally completed and dedicated on May 7, 1919. The first Mass had already been celebrated in the unfinished cathedral on December 8, 1918.
There was a 9:00 Saturday mass in progress, so I slipped into the back and waited till the church had almost cleared out, then I took some photos.
Cathedral of St. Joseph
Children of Life Memorial
inside Cathedral of St. Joseph
inside Cathedral of St. Joseph
inside Cathedral of St. Joseph
I had a brief walk in the St. Joseph’s Cathedral Historic District. In 1974, this neighborhood became the first historic district in South Dakota to be listed on the National Register of Historic Places. This old Sioux Falls neighborhood contains approximately 220 structures. Of these, 46 percent were built before 1900, and 85 percent were completed by 1920.
At a fenced yard a dog was barking viciously and flung himself at the high fence, his head popping up at the top. One board was missing from the fence; I was afraid he’d get out through there, so I hightailed it out of there.
Historic District Sioux FallsHistoric District Sioux Falls
I arrived at Falls Park Visitor Information before they opened at 10:00. I went up to the five-story, 50-foot tall observation tower, then walked all around the 123-acre Falls Park. It was incredibly gloomy, but at least it wasn’t raining – yet.
The Big Sioux River has been flowing in its present course here for over 10,000 years. Native Americans were the first to visit the falls and bring stories of them to European explorers. The Falls have been a highlight of recreation and industry since the city was founded in 1856. Many Sioux Falls historic buildings were made from the Sioux Quartzite including several buildings at Falls Park. The “pink rock” is the hardest rock second to diamond. The Sioux Quartzite is among the oldest rock exposed in South Dakota. It is very resistant to erosion.
Each second, an average of 7,400 gallons of water drop 100 feet over the course of the falls.
Falls Park
A man was saying rude things to people walking by, and it was disconcerting. He was causing a disturbance. Later, three police (two men & one woman) came and led him away, holding him on either side by his arms.
Another guy was using a remote control pick up truck on the rose quartzite.
Falls ParkFalls Park
Falls Park
Falls Park
Falls Park
American Farmer by Sondra Jonson
Monarch of the Plains
Falls Park
Falls Park
Falls Park
Falls Park
Falls Park
Falls Park
Falls Park
Falls Park
Falls Park
Falls Park
Falls Park
me at Falls Park
Falls Park
Falls Park
I walked around the remains of the seven-story Queen Bee Mill, built between 1879 and 1881 under the guidance of politician Richard F. Pettigrew. It cost $500,000 and it processed 1,500 bushels of grain each day. By 1883, the mill closed due to inadequate water power and a short supply of wheat. In 1956, fire destroyed the wooden roof and interior floors. The upper walls were later knocked down to prevent them from falling.
Queen Bee Mill
After leaving the Falls, I passed the Silver Moon Bar & Lounge on my way into downtown Sioux Falls, where I walked down Phillips Avenue for the SculptureWalk Sioux Falls, the largest annual exhibit of public sculptures in the world. The art is displayed all year throughout downtown Sioux Falls.
Sioux Falls, South Dakota
Sculpture Walk
Sculpture Walk
Common Thread by Fred Klingelhofer
Sculpture Walk
Kit Fox by Pokey Park
Beetle the Bear by Cedar Mueller
Surround by Hanna Seggerman
Vishnu Bunny Tattoo & Piercing
Protection by Jade Windell
High Five by Christine Knapp
Fulcrum by Dan Perry
Under Construction by Gary Hovey
State Theater
Movie bills at the State Theater
Local Perspective by Jason Richter
Spiral Dance by Harold Linke
The Government Building
Spectrum by Jeff Satter
Spiral Dance by Harold Linke
Corkscrew by Patricia VAder
State Theater
Shriver Square
All the World by Lee Leuning / Sherri Treeby
Sculpture Walk, Sioux Falls
downtown Sioux Falls
downtown Sioux Falls
Journey by Zach Schnock
Sculpture Walk, Sioux Falls
I popped into Zandbroz Variety, which sells soaps, books, pens, fine papers, cards, baskets, jewelry, gourmet foods, and many quirky things displayed charmingly in antique cupboards and vintage cabinetry from drug-store days. It was very colorful. The back area was once a soda fountain and coffee bar but at that time offered used books and vintage items for sale.
Zandbroz Variety
It was starting to rain by this time, so I went to the Old Courthouse Museum. The restored 1800s quartzite building featured three floors of regional history exhibits and sixteen historic murals.
Old Courthouse Museum
Let’s Ride: Vintage Motorcycles took a look at the history of motorcycles while featuring a variety of bikes from numerous manufacturers. By the 1910s, the motorcycle boom reached Sioux Falls.
Let’s Ride: Vintage Motorcycles
Let’s Ride: Vintage Motorcycles
Let’s Ride: Vintage Motorcycles
Let’s Ride: Vintage Motorcycles
Let’s Ride: Vintage Motorcycles
Let’s Ride: Vintage Motorcycles
Let’s Ride: Vintage Motorcycles
Let’s Ride: Vintage Motorcycles
World War I: The Great War was considered a war to end all wars. The Great War created many advances in technology, the medical field, and shaped military strategies. Local communities such as Sioux Falls became vital arteries in helping with the war effort. World War I became an unprecedented catastrophe that affected an immeasurable amount of people and shaped the modern world.
World War II: The Great War
World War II: The Great War
World War II: The Great War
World War II: The Great War
World War II: The Great War
The Tornado Tree showed the powerful effect of tornadoes. When a tornado went through the southern part of town, it destroyed the bridge that went over the river near 41st Street and the Mall.
The Fawick Flyer was a two-door model car built by local inventor Thomas Fawick.
Fawick Flyer
The Norwegian Style Loom is a four harness, counter-balanced, direct tie-up loom. It was hand-built by Anders Sorken and Rasmus Elgaaen. The loom was donated to the Siouxland Heritage Museum’s collection in 1988.
Norwegian Style LoomNorwegian Style Loom
cash register
Tonics and Tools of Medicine examined early Sioux Falls medicine and the instruments that helped keep its citizens healthy. The people of 19th century Sioux Falls relied on doctors, drugstores, and some home remedies to get better, but without twenty-first century technology, early medical professionals relied on basic tools and different practices to treat their patients.
Tonics and Tools of Medicine
Tonics and Tools of Medicine
Tonics and Tools of Medicine
Tonics and Tools of Medicine
Tonics and Tools of Medicine
Tonics and Tools of Medicine
Tonics and Tools of Medicine
Tonics and Tools of Medicine
Theaters: Stage to Screen showcased the many theaters that once were in Sioux Falls. Many of them were built or remodeled for both stage and screen. Hollywood’s “Golden Era” in movies exploded, and America was mesmerized by film. These theaters flourished.
Theaters: Stage to Screen
The State Theater
Orpheum Theater
I especially loved the motorcycle exhibit and the Toys exhibit: it exhibited toys from the 1800s to the 1990s: Ouija Board (called Mystic Soothsayer), Barbies, Lincoln Logs, GI Joes, erector sets, matchbox racetracks, checkers, Clue, Lotto, Felt-o-gram, toy musical instruments, Tinker Toys, pull toys, wooden finger puppers, a pinball machine, Spirograph, Basic Microscope, Junior Doctor Kit, Chinese Checkers, Battleship, PacMan, Raggedy Ann and Andy, Pound Puppies, Mr. Potato Head, Pet Rocks, and Chatty Cathy. 🙂 There were so many toys I recognized from my childhood.
Toys exhibit
Toys exhibit
Toys exhibit
Mystic Soothsayer & checkers
Clue and Lotto
Junior Combination Board and The Game of Anagrams
American Bricks Construction Set, ca. 1940
FELT-O-GRAM and Building and Designing Set
ERECTOR set
GI Joe
Cowboys and Indians
Lincoln Logs
Tinker toys
musical instruments
Chatty Cathy
toddler toys
Wooden Finger Puppets
Spirograph and spirotot
Junior Doctor Kit, basic MICROSCOPE Set
Barbies and stuffed toys
Matchbox garage and racetrack
Mr. Potato Head
Disney Barbie Dolls
The artist who did the murals was Ole Runing, born in Norway in 1874; he immigrated to the U.S. in 1906. He spent two years on the sixteen murals and was only paid five hundred dollars. The murals depict the falls of the Big Sioux River in Sioux Falls and the Palisades rock formation near Garretson, South Dakota. Late in the project, he was aided by his son Elmer.
murals at the Old Courthouse Museum
murals at the Old Courthouse Museum
murals at the Old Courthouse Museum
This was a truly fascinating museum.
Information from the Courthouse Museum is taken from a pamphlet distributed by the Old Courthouse Museum.
I headed to the Japanese Gardens at Terrace Park, but it was raining and I was hungry, so I went to Burger King for a Whopper Junior with cheese, fries, and a Diet Coke.
I drove east 30 minutes to Palisades State Park, passing Tucker’s Walk Vineyard. By then it was really raining, so I just went to the Balancing Rock Overlook then walked on the very short King and Queen Rock Trail.
The Split Rock Creek, which flows through Palisades State Park, is lined with Sioux quartzite formations varying from shelves several feet above the water to 50-foot vertical cliffs. Geologists estimate the Sioux quartzite spires in the park are 1.2 billion years old.
Palisades State ParkPalisades State Park
Palisades State Park
Palisades State Park
King and Queen Rock Trail
Palisades State Park
Palisades State Park
Palisades State Park
Palisades State Park
Palisades State Park
Palisades State Park
Palisades State Park
I drove over the 1908 Palisades Bridge. The steel bridge rests on natural abutments of Sioux quartzite.
1908 Historic Bridge at Palisades State Park
On the way back from Palisades, I listened to “Big Foot” by Johnny Cash about Wounded Knee. I seem to vaguely remember a book or movie titled Bury My Heart at Wounded Knee, that was required reading in high school or college. I felt I should read it again.
As I drove back, I worried that the Corn Palace wouldn’t be open the next day because it was a Sunday. I passed Augustana University: The Place for Possibilities. A sign said WRANGLE UP SOME RINGNECKS (whatever that meant!).
Then I decided I’d try to go back to Sioux Falls to the Washington Pavilion. However, they had all the roads around it blocked off for a big fair: The Sidewalk Arts Festival. I got tired of driving around looking for parking, so I drove out of the town and stopped at the Terrace Park and Japanese Gardens. The area known as Terrace Park is located on a bluff overlooking an ancient part of the Big Sioux River’s System of oxbows and overflow flood plain. This bluff is part of a series of bluffs that form the east side of the Big Sioux River valley.
It was pleasant enough but I wasn’t feeling good so decided to return to my hotel to rest.
Terrace Park & Japanese Gardens
Terrace Park & Japanese Gardens
Terrace Park & Japanese Gardens
Terrace Park & Japanese Gardens
Terrace Park & Japanese Gardens
Terrace Park & Japanese Gardens
Terrace Park & Japanese Gardens
Terrace Park & Japanese Gardens
I had stomach cramps for much of the afternoon, so I wasn’t yet hungry. I returned to my hotel to rest before dinner.
Later, I went to the colorful Guadalajara Mexican Restaurant, where I had my favorite chili relleno, a tamale, refried beans, rice and a Corona.
Guadalajara Mexican Restaurant
Guadalajara Mexican Restaurant
Guadalajara Mexican Restaurant
Guadalajara Mexican Restaurant
Guadalajara Mexican Restaurant
Chili Relleno and tamale
Guadalajara Mexican Restaurant
Back at the hotel, I talked to Mike, as I did every night of my trip.
Here we are, continuing to expand our horizons on this 4th Saturday in August. Welcome to my 12th cocktail hour, during a time where we venture a bit further from home and enjoy a beverage. I offer you Cheers! À votre santé! 乾杯/ Kanpai! Saúde! Salud! May we all remain healthy, safe, financially afloat, and hopeful.
We’ve been getting out more. I still go out every day for either a walk, a walk/jog, a bikeride, weightlifting, or Pilates. We’ve been out to eat numerous times: bartaco, P.F. Chang, Artie’s, and Istanbul Blue – all indoor venues. We go in wearing a mask, all the servers wear masks, and we put on our masks when interacting with the servers. We also go early, when the restaurant is nearly empty.
Mike at bartaco
me at bartaco
me at Fairfax Corner
Mike with his favorite sports mural at Fairfax Corner
Mike and mural at Fairfax Corner
me at Fairfax Corner
roasted chicken salad at Artie’s
Mike at Artie’s
me at Artie’s
Mike at Istanbul Blue
me at Istanbul Blue
Spinach pide at Istanbul Blue
Tropical Storm Isaias moved through around the 3rd and 4th of the month, bringing boatloads of rain.
On Saturday, August 8, we went to the National Museum of Women in the Arts in D.C. to see “Graciela Iturbide’s Mexico.” The museum recently opened and required face masks and social distancing.
From early in Graciela Iturbide’s career, she embraced photography as a way to engage in a profound exploration of her country. Her works from the 1970s and early 1980s reveal Mexico’s hybrid culture, acutely observing its contrasts and complexities. Iturbide’s photos also highlight her attraction to the unusual geometries of Mexico City and her keen eye for the unexpected.
National Museum of Women in the Arts
Lobby of National Museum of Women in the Arts
Graciela Iturbide’s Mexico
Nuestra Señora de las Iguanas (Our Lady of the Iguanas), Juchitán, 1979
Zihuatanejo, México, 1969
Pachuco, Mexico City, 1972
Immaculada (Immaculate Girl), Xochimilco, 1984
Autoretrato como Seri (Self-Portrait as Seri), Sonoran Desert, 1979
Autoretrato como Seri (Self-Portrait as Seri), Sonoran Desert, 1979
Mujer Seri con su retrato (Seri Woman with Her Portrait), Sonoran Desert, 1979
Angelita, Sonoran Desert, 1979
Mujer ángel (Angel woman), Sonoran Desert, 1979
Sonoran Desert, 1979
Iguanas, Juchitán, 1984
Festival del lagarto (Alligator Festival(, Juchitán, 1985
Juchiteca con cerveza (Juchiteca with Beer), Juchitán, 1984
Padrinos del lagarto (The Alligator’s Godparents), Juchitán, 1986
Mexico… quiero conocerte! (Mexico…I want to get to know you!), Chiapas, 1975
Pájaros en el poste, Carretera (Birds on the Post, Highway), Guanajuato, 1990
Mercado de Sonora (Sonora Market), 1978
angel wings
El jardinero (The Gardener), Oaxaca, 1974
Los jardineros (The Gardeners), Oaxaca, 1974
political rallies
wall at museum
me at the Iturbide exhibit
When Frida Kahlo died in 1954, her grief-stricken husband muralist Diego Rivera, took her personal belongings and locked them in her bathroom in her home, the Casa Azul, in Mexico City. Fifty years later, the space was finally opened, and Graciela Iturbide was commissioned to photograph it.
In Iturbide’s series about Frida’s bathroom we enter into the legendary painter’s private life and encounter a composite portrait of Kahlo’s suffering and resilience. They represent a visual and emotional narrative of the intimate space and of objects that symbolize sickness and healing. Kahlo contracted polio as a child; at eighteen, she survived a near-fatal bus accident, sustaining grave injuries that required numerous surgeries throughout her life. Eventually, she had one leg amputated. During her recovery, she began painting – a pursuit that brought Kahlo both solace and international fame.
Both Iturbide and Kahlo have seen their art as a form of therapy and escape. According to Iturbide, “…in life everything is connected: your pain, your imagination, which perhaps can help you forget reality. It’s a way of showing how you can connect what you live with what you dream, and what you dream with what you do, and that is what remains on paper.” (From a sign at the exhibit)
El baño de Frida (Frida’s Bathroom) Coyoacán, Mexico City, 2005
El baño de Frida (Frida’s Bathroom) Coyoacán, Mexico City, 2005
El baño de Frida (Frida’s Bathroom) Coyoacán, Mexico City, 2005
El baño de Frida (Frida’s Bathroom) Coyoacán, Mexico City, 2005
El baño de Frida (Frida’s Bathroom) Coyoacán, Mexico City, 2005
We also saw the regular collection at the museum, which is known as “the only major museum in the world solely dedicated to championing women through the arts,” according to the website.
To Kiss the Spirits: Now This Is What It Is Really Like, 1993 by Hollis Sigler
Vase of Flowers 1, 1999, by Amy Lamb
Will-o’-the-Wisp, ca. 1900 by Elizabeth Adela Armstrong Forbes
Tjukurla – Other Side of Docker River, 2001 by Eunice Napanangka Jack
Eridanus, 1984 by Lynda Benglis
Sale Neige, 1980 by Joan Mitchell
Grassland Drifters, 2001 by Justine Kurland
Raft Expedition, 2001 by Justine Kurland
The Earth, 1984 by Kimsooja
Spider III, 1995 by Louise Bourgeois
Jugamarra, sitting with spears watching women dancing, 1997 by Pansy Napangati
The Large Family Group, 1957 by MARISOL (Marisol Escobar)
What’s Happening with Momma?, 1988 by Clarissa Sligh
What’s Happening with Momma?, 1988 by Clarissa Sligh
The Stags, 2008 by Patricia Piccinini
The Stags, 2008 by Patricia Piccinini
Untitled (Yellow Tub), 2003 by Angela Strassheim
It Made Sense… Mostly in Her Mind, 2011 by Amy Sherald
SoHo Women Artists, 1978 by May Stevens
Iris, Tulips, Jonquils, and Crocuses, 1969, by Alma Woodsey Thomas
Gentle Morning, 2007 by Susan Swartz
Self-Portrait Dedicated to Leon Trotsky, 1937 by Frida Kahlo
Spiritualist, 1973 by Helen Frankenthaler
They Call Me Redbone bu I’d Rather be Strawberry Shortcake, 2009 by Amy Sherald
Untitled (68), 1999 by Hellen Van Meene
Rosy, 1999 by Deborah Mesa-Pelly
Ohio Project (8), 1999 by Nikki S. Lee
Jo Baker’s Bananas, 1997 by Faith Ringgold
United States (Mexican Series), 1999 by Rosângela Rennó