Athens
Three days in Athens and this is what I remember. After arriving and standing at the baggage claim for a long time, as every other passenger departed with their bags, I realized my luggage had gone on a trip of its own to some unknown destination. It certainly wasn’t in Athens!
I used to pack a carry-on bag with pajamas, toiletries, and a change of clothes, JUST IN CASE. But because I’d been so lucky, I didn’t have a carry-on bag at all. All I had were the clothes on my back, a small backpack with my camera (but no charger for my battery), my phone (but no charger), money, credit cards and my passport.
After leaving my contact information with Eygpt Air, I moved in to the Acropolis View Hotel, with a rooftop terrace that offered a perfect view of the Acropolis.
I remember the Plaka neighborhood, the old Turkish quarter which used to be the whole of Athens when it was declared capital of Greece. Its paved narrow streets ran along the base of the northeastern slope of the Acropolis and passed right by the Acropolis Museum. It was a tourist-friendly and charming neighborhood with leafy trees, outdoor cafes and shops selling artsy jewelry, Grecian urns, T-shirts, paintings of the Greek islands, souvenirs and trinkets.
I remember the new 130-million-euro Acropolis Museum, opened with much fanfare in 2009. This huge modernist building collects the surviving treasures of the Acropolis, a total of over 4,000 artifacts. The museum’s collections focus on the Acropolis of the 5th century BC, generally agreed to be the height of Greece’s artistic achievement. There I found the glass floor sloped upwards in sync with the finds displayed from the slopes of the Acropolis, votive offerings from the sanctuaries where the gods were worshiped, everyday household items used by Athenians of all historical periods, as well as two clay statues of Nike at the entrance. In the Archaic Gallery, I learned of the 7th century BC, until the end of the Persian Wars (480/79 BC), characterized by the development of the city-state and the transition from aristocracy to tyranny and, eventually, democracy. It is also characterized by great achievements in the economy, art and intellectual life. Most statues were 6th century kore (maiden) statues in draped gowns and elaborate braids, carrying a bird, pomegranate or wreath.
I remember the top floor Parthenon Gallery, a glass atrium built in alignment with the temple — the museum’s highlight. It held an installation of the frieze of the Parthenon on the rectangular cement core that had exactly the same dimensions as the cella of the Parthenon. The British Museum bought the original Parthenon Marbles after Lord Elgin absconded with them in 1801; currently more than half the frieze is in Britain.
I loved the design of the museum and how it was interwoven with the Acropolis itself; I also loved all the natural light and especially the layout of the Parthenon Gallery, which was the closest thing to being able to experience the Acropolis as a whole.
Back at the hotel, I took a glass of wine up to the 5th floor terrace of the hotel and sat on a wrought-iron chair and soaked up the Acropolis view. It was amazing, with the sun setting and the golden light washing over it. It was such a pleasant spot, with a cool breeze and amazing ancient history right in front of me. Athens spread out in every direction all around. I was already in love with Greece, and I hadn’t even been here a full day.
When I returned to my room after dinner, I was again hit by the realization that I had no luggage. It seemed I had temporarily forgotten my little misfortune. During the day, I had bought a toothbrush and toothpaste and a round hairbrush. I took off the only clothes I had, washed the only underwear I had, and tried to sleep, tossing and turning with visions of Plaka, the Acropolis, colorful mussels saganaki, and my capricious vagabond bag.
My second morning in Athens, I remember putting on my same old clothes and heading to the lobby, hoping to find some word of my bag. Sadly, there had been no word at the front desk, nor had Egypt Air called me directly. I ate breakfast in the lobby cafe. They had quite a spread of hard-boiled eggs, toast, bread, cakes, cucumbers, tomatoes, cheese, and olives.
I remember the Acropolis, considered the most important ancient site in the Western world. The weather was beautiful, so cheery that it was difficult to dwell on my worries. The Acropolis stood before me, beckoning.
The Acropolis’s first temples were built in honor of the goddess Athena during the Mycenaean era. People lived on the Acropolis until the 6th century BC, but in 510 BC the Delphic oracle determined it should be the province of the gods.
The Acropolis has been ravaged over the centuries by foreign occupiers, foreign archeologists, visitors’ footsteps, earthquakes and, recently, pollution and acid rain. In 1687, the Venetians fired on the Turks, who had stored gunpowder in the Parthenon, and a destructive explosion occurred. Major restoration still continues to this day, with many original sculptures moved to the Acropolis Museum. In 1987, the Acropolis became a World Heritage-listed site.
I remember the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, built in AD 161 by wealthy Roman Herodes Atticus in memory of his wife. Uncovered in the mid-19th century and completely restored between 1950-1961, it was now the venue for performances of drama, music and dance during the Athens Festival, part of the Hellenic Festival from late May to October.
I remember heading up a slippery marble walkway, to the Propylaia, the grand entrance to the Acropolis. It is aligned with the Parthenon, the world’s first example of one building designed in relation to another. It appeared everything was under renovation, as there was scaffolding everywhere.
I remember the Parthenon, which means “virgin’s apartment,” dedicated to Athena Parthenos. Its double purpose was to house the great statue of Athena commissioned by Pericles and to serve as a new treasury.
I remember just to the north of the Parthenon was the Erechtheion, built where Poseidon struck the ground with his trident, and where Athena produced the olive tree.
I wandered around, trying to imagine what life must have been like thousands of years ago. Though the Acropolis was in ruins, it still stood majestically over Athena’s city, a commanding presence and reminder of the great accomplishments of ancient Greece. This reminder possibly represented a kind of hope for the Greek people, who were on the verge of bankruptcy. Or possibly it reflected the impending doom that Greek citizens certainly felt as they teetered on the edge of financial insolvency. It felt to me like a mix of hope and sadness.
I remember the circular path called the Peripatos that went around the slopes and intersected the Panathenaic Way at the western approach. These slopes were home to many sanctuaries that played important roles in the religious lives of the ancient Athenians. I remember the north slope, with its simple shrines, the ones that are sometimes called “rustic.” These were places where divinities of nature, fertility and healing were worshiped on a more personal level. Some shrines were nestled along the steep cliffs and pathways. I came across a group of shallow caves at the northwest corner of the north slope where Apollo, Pan, and (probably) the Nymphs were worshiped.
I remember the cult places on the south slope, which received monumental, architectural embellishments, such as the Theatre of Dionysos. The first theatre here was built during the 6th century BC, and during the golden age in the 5th century, politicians sponsored dramas by writers such as Sophocles and Euripides, with some light relief provided by the comedies of Aristophanes.
I remember taking the hop-on, hop-off Athens Open Tour after I finished walking all around the Acropolis and its slopes. We passed the Temple of Zeus, Hadrian’s Arch, Parliament and the National Gardens, Syntagma Square, the Bernaki Museum, the Presidential Residence, the Panathenaic Stadium, the National Library, Omonia Square, the National Archeological Museum, and Karaiskaki Square.
I remember disembarking at Thession, so I could walk down the main central shopping street: Ermou. I intended to buy some clothes just in case my suitcase didn’t arrive, since I was leaving for Crete the next day. I had continued to check my phone in case I’d missed a call from Egypt Air, but there was nothing. I started at the traditional Monastiraki Flea Market, a festive place with permanent antiques, furniture, collectibles, jewelry, handicrafts and bric-a-brac.
Along the pedestrian section of Ermou, with its eclectic mix of stores and shopping strips, I came across some modern-day clothing stores. Here, I popped in and out and started a buying spree. First stop, I bought two tank tops and two pairs of shorts. As I continued in and out of stores, I ended up buying a number of tops, two pairs of pants, three pairs of shorts, underwear, and pajamas. After all was said and done, I had spent 262€ (or $341)!!! Each time before I made a purchase, I checked my phone to see if Egypt Air had called about my bag, but there was never any missed call or any message. I figured as soon as they let me know they had found my bag, I would stop purchasing stuff and head back to the hotel.
My bag of stuff was heavy, and I was hot, tired and irritable, so I stopped at a little cafe to grab a drink and a bite to eat. After eating a delicious spinach pie and being refreshed by a lemonade, I walked the rest of the way to Syntagma Square, where I caught the Hop On Hop Off bus again.
As I sat on the bus, I noticed a lot of police activity down below, with police blocking off one of the streets. Word was from some people on the bus that a neo-Nazi demonstration was due to occur in an hour or so. Later I read in an online publication called Contra Info that the demonstration was more AGAINST neo-Nazis. According to Contra Info‘s story, Athens: Brief summary of the antifascist demo on September 1st: Around 2,500 people attended an antifascist demo in Athens last Saturday, September 1st. The idea of the demo was to arrive at the square to confront a group of ‘autonomous’ fascists, a Strasserist faction of the local nationalist circles, who practice the political strategy of entryism to lead dissident groups towards the neo-Nazi ways. It was crazy that I almost ended up in the middle of this demonstration!!
After getting off the bus, I walked the several blocks back to my hotel, and there, lo and behold (!), right in front of me in the hotel lobby, was my red suitcase!! A wave of happiness, relief, even ecstasy, washed over me. I asked the desk clerk when the bag appeared and they said it arrived a couple of hours ago. The only regret of course was that Egypt Air never called to let me know they found the bag, which would have 1) eased my worries and 2) saved me from spending 262€ on new clothes that I DID NOT NEED!!!
I hauled my suitcase immediately up to my room, took a shower and changed into one of the cute knit dresses I had packed. I was so happy to have clean clothes and all my belongings!! I had to figure that the clothes I bought were a sunk cost, never to be recovered except in wearing the clothes over time…..
I remember how happy I felt to sleep in my own pajamas and to charge the battery on my camera and on my phone. It was a happy reunion with all my belongings.
modern and ancient markets: monastiraki flea market & the ancient agora
Sunday, September 2: I started this morning by repacking my newly arrived bag, trying to squeeze in all the extra stuff I bought. I had to check out of the Acropolis View Hotel because I was flying to Crete that evening at 5:00, so I would leave my bag in the hotel all day as I explored more of Athens.
I strolled down Ermou Street wondering why there was hardly anyone about. Though it was after 10 a.m., it was practically deserted. I noticed quickly that all the shops were closed. And then it dawned on me that it was Sunday. How many of us lose track of the days while we are traveling? I was totally messed up on my days, as every day seemed like Sunday to me!!
I came to a tiny church in the middle of a square. It looked like someone plopped it down in the middle of the modern shopping street, but I knew it was here long before the shopping street appeared. This 11th century Greek Orthodox Church of Kapnikarea was beautiful, but so out-of-place here! This church was built around 1050 over a pagan temple originally built for the worship of a goddess, possibly Athena or Demeter.
I continued down the road until I came to Monastiraki Square, bustling with its Sunday Flea Market. There had been a church and monastery on this site since at least the 10th century, with the current church being built in 1678. The monastery once owned many of the surrounding buildings, which were later destroyed, but the area’s name Monastiraki means “little monastery.”
Finally, I came upon the entrance to the Ancient Agora, which was once the heart of ancient Athens, first developed in the 6th century BC. The Persians destroyed it in 480 BC, but a new Agora was built to replace it right away. It flourished by Pericles’ time and did so until AD 267, when the Herulians, a Gothic tribe from Scandinavia, finally destroyed it. The Agora in its day was the center of commercial, political, administrative and social activity. Socrates expounded on his philosophy here and St. Paul converted people to Christianity here in AD 49, according to Lonely Planet Greece.
Up on a hill in front of me was a very nice temple, the Temple of Hephaestus, the best-preserved Doric temple in Greece. Dedicated to Hephaestus, patron god of metal working and craftsmanship, it was surrounded in its day by foundries and metalwork shops.
One of the architects for the Parthenon, Iktinos, built this in 449 BC and it remained standing largely as built. It had 34 columns and a frieze on the eastern side showing nine of the twelve Labors of Heracles. From the 7th century until 1834, it served as the Greek Orthodox church of St. George Akamates.
In 1834, the first King of Greece, Otto I, was officially welcomed at this church. Otto ordered the building to be used as a museum, in which capacity it remained until 1934, when it reverted to its status of an ancient monument and archaeological research was allowed.
At the south end of the Agora, I came upon the Church of the Holy Apostles. This was particularly significant as the only monument in the Agora, other than the Temple of Hephaestus, to survive intact since its foundation, and for its architecture: it was the first significant church of the middle Byzantine period in Athens, and marks the beginning of the so-called “Athenian type”, successfully combining the simple four-pier with the cross-in-square forms, according to Wikipedia.
The Agora Museum had a model of the Agora as well as artifacts assembled from the site. This was the world’s first shopping arcade, built from 159-138 BC by King Attalos II of Pergamum. It was two stories high and in its day had two aisles with expensive shops.
After my long and hot walk through the Agora, I was ready to sit and have a light lunch and something to drink. I found an inviting little cafe where I ordered orange Fanta, water, and some delicious lemon chicken soup. Yum!
After lunch, I headed back toward the Monastiraki Flea Market on my way to Keramikos, the city’s cemetery from the 12th century BC until Roman times. There was so much bustle on the streets around Monastiraki Square that it was a photographer’s dream.
I only had a little time left before I had to head to the airport, so I walked down the street to Keramikos to explore one of Athens’ old cemeteries.
