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    • on returning home
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  • Home
  • about ~ wander.essence ~
    • ~ the places i’ve been ~
    • ~ places i’ve been in the u.s.a. ~
  • Travel Destinations
    • America
      • Boston
      • Delaware
      • District of Columbia
        • Washington
      • Georgia
        • Atlanta
      • Maryland
      • New Jersey
        • Cape May
      • New York
        • Adirondacks
        • Buffalo
        • Niagara Falls
      • Pennsylvania
        • Pittsburgh
      • South Carolina
      • Tennessee
        • Nashville
      • Virginia
    • American Road Trips
      • Canyon & Cactus Road Trip
      • Florida Road Trip
        • Everglades
        • Fort Lauderdale
        • Florida Keys
        • Miami
        • St. Augustine
      • Four Corners Road Trip
        • Arizona
          • Monument Valley
          • Petrified Forest National Park
          • Sunset Crater National Monument
          • Walnut Canyon National Monument
          • Winslow
          • Wupatki National Monument
        • Colorado
          • Colorado National Monument
          • Colorado Towns
          • Great Sand Dunes National Park
          • Grand Junction
        • New Mexico
        • Utah
          • Arches National Park
          • Canyonlands
          • Navajo National Monument
          • Dead Horse Point State Park
          • Hovenweep National Monument
          • Moab
          • Valley of the Gods
          • Natural Bridges National Monument
      • Great Lakes Road Trip
        • Michigan
        • Minnesota
        • Wisconsin
      • Midwestern Triangle
        • Illinois
          • Carbondale
          • Murphysboro
        • Kentucky
          • Covington
          • Lexington
          • Louisville
        • Ohio
          • Cincinnati
      • Road Trip to Nowhere
        • Nebraska
        • North Dakota
        • South Dakota
      • Tex-New Mex Road Trip
        • Texas & New Mexico Road Trip
        • New Mexico
        • Texas
    • International Travel
      • Africa
        • african meanderings {& musings}
        • Egypt
          • Cairo
        • Ethiopia
        • Morocco
      • Asia
        • Cambodia
        • China
          • China Diaries
          • Guangxi Province
        • India
          • Rishikesh
          • Varanasi
        • Japan
          • Kyoto
        • Myanmar
        • Oman
          • a nomad in the land of nizwa
          • Nizwa
        • Singapore
        • South Korea
          • catbird in korea
        • Thailand
        • Turkey
          • Cappadocia
        • Vietnam
      • Central America
        • Costa Rica
        • El Salvador
        • Nicaragua
        • Panama
          • Bocas del Toro
          • Panama City
      • Europe
        • In Search of a Thousand Cafés
        • Croatia
          • Dalmatia
            • Istria
            • Dubrovnik
            • Plitvice Lakes National Park
            • Split
            • Zadar
            • Zagreb
        • Czech Republic
          • Český Krumlov
        • England
        • France
        • Greece
        • Hungary
          • Budapest
          • Esztergom
        • Iceland
        • Italy
          • Bergamo
          • Cinque Terre
          • The Dolomites
          • Florence
          • Rome
          • Tuscany
          • Venice
          • Verona
          • Via Francigena
        • Portugal
        • Spain
          • Camino de Santiago
            • packing list for el camino de santiago 2018
      • North America
        • Canada
          • The Maritimes
            • New Brunswick
            • Nova Scotia
            • Prince Edward Island
          • Ontario
      • South America
        • Colombia
        • Ecuador
          • Cuenca
          • Quito
    • how to make the most of a staycation
      • Coronavirus Coping
  • Imaginings
    • imaginings: the call to place
  • Travel Preparation
    • journeys: anticipation & preparation
  • Travel Creativity
    • on keeping a travel journal
    • on creating art from travels
      • Art Journaling
    • photography inspiration
      • Photography
    • writing prompts: prose
      • Prose
        • Fiction
        • Travel Essay
        • Travelogue
    • writing prompts: poetry
      • Poetry
  • On Journey
    • on journey: taking ourselves from here to there
  • Books & Movies
    • books | international a-z |
    • books & novels | u.s.a. |
    • books | history, spirituality, personal growth & lifestyle |
    • movies | international a-z |
    • movies | u.s.a. |
  • On Returning Home
    • on returning home
  • Annual recap
    • twenty-fifteen
    • twenty-eighteen
    • twenty-nineteen
    • twenty-twenty
    • twenty-twenty-one
    • twenty twenty-two
    • twenty twenty-three
    • twenty twenty-four
    • twenty twenty-five
  • Contact

wander.essence

wander.essence

Home from Morocco & Italy

Home sweet home!May 10, 2019
I'm home from Morocco & Italy. :-)

Italy trip

Traveling to Italy from MoroccoApril 23, 2019
On my way to Italy!

Leaving for Morocco

Casablanca, here I come!April 4, 2019
I'm on my way to Casablanca. :-)

Home from our Midwestern Triangle Road Trip

Driving home from Lexington, KYMarch 6, 2019
Home sweet home from the Midwest. :-)

Leaving for my Midwestern Triangle Road Trip

Driving to IndianaFebruary 24, 2019
Driving to Indiana.

Returning home from Portugal

Home sweet home from Spain & Portugal!November 6, 2018
Home sweet home from Spain & Portugal!

Leaving Spain for Portugal

A rendezvous in BragaOctober 26, 2018
Rendezvous in Braga, Portgual after walking the Camino de Santiago. :-)

Leaving to walk the Camino de Santiago

Heading to Spain for the CaminoAugust 31, 2018
I'm on my way to walk 790 km across northern Spain on the Camino de Santiago.

Home from my Four Corners Road Trip

Home Sweet Home from the Four CornersMay 25, 2018
Home Sweet Home from the Four Corners. :-)

My Four Corners Road Trip!

Hitting the roadMay 1, 2018
I'm hitting the road today for my Four Corners Road Trip: CO, UT, AZ, & NM!

Recent Posts

  • twenty twenty-five: nicaragua {twice}, mexico & seven months in costa rica {with an excursion to panama} December 31, 2025
  • the december cocktail hour: mike’s surgery, a central highlands road trip & christmas in costa rica December 31, 2025
  • top ten books of 2025 December 28, 2025
  • the november cocktail hour: a trip to panama, a costa rican thanksgiving & a move to lake arenal condos December 1, 2025
  • panama: the caribbean archipelago of bocas del toro November 24, 2025
  • a trip to panama city: el cangrejo, casco viejo & the panama canal November 22, 2025
  • the october cocktail hour: a trip to virginia, a NO KINGS protest, two birthday celebrations, & a cattle auction October 31, 2025
  • the september cocktail hour: a nicoya peninsula getaway, a horseback ride to la piedra del indio waterfalls & a fall bingo card September 30, 2025
  • the august cocktail hour: local gatherings, la fortuna adventures, & a “desfile de caballistas”  September 1, 2025
  • the july cocktail hour: a trip to ometepe, nicaragua; a beach getaway to tamarindo; & homebody activities August 3, 2025
  • the june cocktail hour: our first month in costa rica June 30, 2025
  • a pura vida year in costa rica June 12, 2025
  • the may cocktail hour: final wrap up, a wedding & leaving for costa rica June 2, 2025

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twenty twenty-five: nicaragua {twice}, mexico & seven months in costa rica {with an excursion to panama}

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 December 31, 2025

Twenty twenty-five was:  A year of venturing to Nicaragua in February to visit Adam and his family: María, Cristy, Andrea and Mía and finally meeting little Mikey (nearly 9 months old at that time). A year of exploring Mexico: Mexico City, Guanajuato, San Miguel de Allende and Querétaro. A year where the worst president on earth was sworn in and immediately began the destruction of our democracy and our standing in the world. A year in which Mike finally retired at the age of 71. A year of moving to Costa Rica for seven months, after doing numerous repairs on our Virginia home and doing a lot of decluttering, prompted by a desire to boycott the USA under Trump and a desire to visit the Nicaragua family more often. A year of visiting Adam and family in Nicaragua (again), this time from Costa Rica in July. A year of traveling to Panama, visiting Panama City and Bocas del Toro, as well as exploring places in Costa Rica such as Playa Hermosa, Tamarindo, the Nicoya Peninsula, La Fortuna, Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio and the Central Highlands (including Zarcero, Sarchí, Grecia, Parque Nacional Volcán Poás, La Paz Waterfall Gardens, and the waterfalls around Bajos del Toro). A year during which Mike sliced his leg open while getting out of the pool and had carpal tunnel surgery on his right hand. A year of the continuing raging of war in Ukraine with our current president siding with Putin, the invader; a year where mass shootings (defined as shootings in which 4 or more people were killed) in the U.S. (484) outnumbered days in the year. A year in which the Merriam-Webster word of the year was “slop”: “digital content of low quality that is produced usually in quantity by means of artificial intelligence.” A year in which the Oxford word of the year was “rage bait”: “online content deliberately designed to elicit anger or outrage by being frustrating, provocative or offensive;” rage bait is “typically posted in order to increase traffic or engagement with a particular web page or social media account.” A year when the TIME Person of the Year was “the architects of AI:” “the most consequential tool in great-power competition since the advent of nuclear weapons. For delivering the age of thinking machines, for wowing and worrying humanity, for transforming the present and transcending the possible.” A year of favorite movies: A Complete Unknown, Emilia Pérez, Conclave, and The Wrong Track (På villspor). A year of reading 48/48 books for the year (My Year in Books 2025); these were my top ten books of 2025.

January was:  A month where snow fell on the 5th and 6th of the month and didn’t melt until the last day because of constant sub-freezing temperatures. A month of wildfires in L.A. which began on January 7 and which destroyed communities and homes, forced the evacuation of over 200,000 people, and have killed 29 so far. A month of walks in the neighborhood, Pilates, gym workouts and my last rowing sessions. A month of the inauguration of our fascist president {along with his UNELECTED Nazi sidekick, Elonia Musk), and the prompt and methodical dismantling of our government and all progressive initiatives, setting us back decades and making us a laughingstock on the world stage (basically turning us into a hellhole). A month of hell freezing over. A month of steaming bowls of ramen with our friends Karen and Michael, Ethiopian food to celebrate Martin Luther King Day (FUCK YOU, Inauguration Day!), vegetarian Indian food at Woodlands and Lebanese food at SERAY, a new restaurant for us. A month of a haircut and hair straightening. A month of movies: A Complete Unknown, A Real Pain, Emilia Pérez and The Room Next Door.  A month of the Wolf Moon, snowstorms and gloomy skies. A month of hiking boots, puffy jackets, warm woolly sweaters, and walks in the snowy woods. A month celebrating a belated Christmas with Mike’s sister Barbara over chicken tortilla soup & a game of Ticket to Ride. A month dreaming about meeting our grandson in Nicaragua & hanging out with the family, as well as exploring Mexico City and the Mexican Highlands. A month beginning to declutter our house as we seriously consider moving to Costa Rica for a year beginning in June. A month of reading 5 books toward my goal of 48 for the year, my favorites being American Dirt by Jeanine Cummins and Enter Ghost by Isabella Hammad. A month of finishing up various TV series: Better Things and La Palma, and continuing to watch Pachinko, Lincoln Lawyer, Maestro in Blue, Nobody Wants This, Unforgotten, Virgin River, The Diplomat, Bad Sisters, Shrinking, Another Self, Grantchester and Modern Family; a month of beginning Paradise. A month ending with a U.S. Army Black Hawk helicopter colliding in mid-air with an American Airlines flight from Wichita, Kansas as it approached the runway at Ronald Reagan Washington International Airport; both plunged into the frozen Potomac River near and killed all 67 people onboard both flights. A month where our new scumbag president tried to blame DEI for the crash with NO EVIDENCE. A month of lies upon lies upon lies. A month that ended with a long 1451 days left in the new administration. 😦

  • the january cocktail hour: the month hell froze over
Karen and me at Jinya Ramen Bar
Karen and me at Jinya Ramen Bar
me with Mike at Jinya Ramen Bar
me with Mike at Jinya Ramen Bar
Jinya Ramen Bar
Jinya Ramen Bar
Mike and me at Angelika
Mike and me at Angelika
Allie's first snow day :-)
Allie’s first snow day 🙂
me on the CCT January 11
me on the CCT January 11
Mike on the CCT January 11
Mike on the CCT January 11
CCT
CCT
CCT
CCT
me at Woodlands
me at Woodlands
Mike at Enatye
Mike at Enatye
Andrea and Mike
Andrea and Mike
Adam and his growing family
Adam and his growing family
little Mikey
little Mikey
the bar at SERAY
the bar at SERAY
me on another cold winter night in front of SERAY
me on another cold winter night in front of SERAY

February was: A month of preparing to and going to Ometepe, Nicaragua to visit the family and to Mexico to explore possible places to move to put in motion our 75% boycott of the USA for the next four years. A month of Japanese sushi & ramen at Ariake, thanks to a Christmas gift certificate from our daughter Sarah, before taking off for Ometepe & Mexico. A month of meeting our new grandson, Michael Christopher Dutchak Hernandez, in Ometepe, Nicaragua, and swimming at Totoco’s pool & Ojo de Agua. A month of playing Kings-around-the-corner, having a sleepover and going to the Saturday market with our granddaughters. A month of Texas Hold’em with expats at Café Campestre, meeting Adam’s cows, assembling a playpen for Mikey, and doing yoga and healing with biofield tuning forks in Totoco’s new yoga pavilion. A month of a shopping trip to Moyogalpa, and eating out at Totoco, Pizzeria Mediterranea, Café Campestre, and Bustavo. A month flying to Mexico City and spending a day on a self-guided walking tour of our charming Roma Norte neighborhood. A month of exploring archeological ruins at Teotihuacán, capital of a pre-Hispanic empire, and Templo Mayor, the Aztec “center of the universe.” A month in Mexico City’s Centro Histórico visiting Catedral Metropolitana, Palacio de Correos de México, and the Museo Nacional de Arte. A month in Polanco and Condessa, perusing Museo Jumex and the Museo Nacional de Antropologia, and having beers along Avenida Amsterdam that encircles Parque México. A month of diving into Diego Rivera, Frida Kahlo and Leon Trotsky in San Ángel and Coyoacán. A month driving to Guanajuato and staying for 4 nights in a lovely Terra Vista apartment on a ridge above the colorful and charming town. A month of dropping into churches, the Museo Casa Diego Rivera, the Alhóndiga de Granaditas, & the Mercado Hidalgo. A month of driving to San Miguel de Allende, stopping into Santa Rosa de Lima where we picked up majolica plates at Mayólica Santa Rosa and mango jam at Conservas Santa Rosa, and then stopping in Dolores Hidalgo, where Mexican history was made. A month in which we celebrated Mike’s 71st birthday around San Miguel de Allende by spending a day soaking and drinking Micheladas in La Gruta hot springs, having lunch at Nirvana, visiting Santuario de Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco to see its fantastic murals, and then tasting wine at Tres Raíces Winery. A month of exploring the many churches in San Miguel and doing some real shopping for the first time in our trip. 🙂 A month of walking through desert landscapes in San Miguel’s botanical garden, El Charco del Ingenio, and visiting the mining town of Mineral de Pozos and the ruins of Mine of Santa Brigida. A disastrous month of the FOTUS/Elon administration in the U.S.: dismantling government agencies, including USAID; threatening our allies with high tariffs or annexation (or war??); treating Ukraine’s President and war hero Zelensky with utter disdain and rudeness; handing the U.S. and its long-term interests over to Putin; and threatening all the alliances we have built up over decades. A month of feeling disgust over our country and its current direction. A month of reading 2 books toward my goal of 48 for the year, bringing my total to 7/48, my favorite being Berlin Poplars by Anne B. Ragde. A month of starting several TV series including The Åre Murders, Apple Cider Vinegar, and Thank You, Next. A month of finishing Maestro in Blue and sadly leaving the Greek characters behind on Paxos; a month of continuing Pachinko, Lincoln Lawyer, Nobody Wants This, Unforgotten, Virgin River, Paradise and Modern Family. A month that ended with a long 1,423 days left in our right-wing oligarchy. 😦

  • a belated february cocktail hour: nicaragua & mexico
me at Ariake
me at Ariake
Mike at Ariake
Mike at Ariake
me with Adam at Totoco
me with Adam at Totoco
Cristy, Mike and Mia at Totoco
Cristy, Mike and Mia at Totoco
Little Mike & Adam at Adam's casa
Little Mike & Adam at Adam’s casa
Andrea upwraps a Christmas present
Andrea upwraps a Christmas present
Andrea & Mia at Totoco's pool
Andrea & Mia at Totoco’s pool
Mike tries crawling over the rough stone porch
Mike tries crawling over the rough stone porch
Andrea, Mia and Cristy at the Farmer's Market 2025
Andrea, Mia and Cristy at the Farmer’s Market 2025
Helado time for the girls: Andrea, Mia and Cristy
Helado time for the girls: Andrea, Mia and Cristy
Mia, Cristy and Andrea at the Totoco yoga pavilion after the sleepover
Mia, Cristy and Andrea at the Totoco yoga pavilion after the sleepover
Andrea & Mia at Ojo de Agua
Andrea & Mia at Ojo de Agua
Mike in front, Adam and Maria in back, at Ojo de Agua 2025
Mike in front, Adam and Maria in back, at Ojo de Agua 2025
the family at Ojo de Agua
the family at Ojo de Agua
Adam and Ben's cow 2025
Adam and Ben’s cow 2025
Cristy, Mia and Mike in his new crib/playpen 2025
Cristy, Mia and Mike in his new crib/playpen 2025
Maria in one new dress we bought her, Mikey and Adam 2025
Maria in one new dress we bought her, Mikey and Adam 2025
Mike in the Modo Museo Del Objeto
Mike in the Modo Museo Del Objeto
me in Roma Norte
me in Roma Norte
Bob Dylan mural
Bob Dylan mural
Pyramid of the Moon at Teotihuacán
Pyramid of the Moon at Teotihuacán
Templo Mayor
Templo Mayor
me at Templo Mayor
me at Templo Mayor
Palacio de Correos de México
Palacio de Correos de México
Palacio de Correos de México
Palacio de Correos de México
Palacio de Bellas Artes
Palacio de Bellas Artes
Museo Nacional de Arte
Museo Nacional de Arte
Museo Nacional de Arte
Museo Nacional de Arte
Museo Nacional de Arte
Museo Nacional de Arte
Museo Soumaya
Museo Soumaya
Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Avenida Amsterdam in Condessa
Avenida Amsterdam in Condessa
Avenida Amsterdam in Condessa
Avenida Amsterdam in Condessa
San Ángel
San Ángel
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Romita
Romita
Tr3s Tonala
Tr3s Tonala
Hotel Terra Vista
Hotel Terra Vista
bedroom in Hotel Terra Vista
bedroom in Hotel Terra Vista
the long walk down
the long walk down
Jardín de la Unión in Guanajuato
Jardín de la Unión in Guanajuato
inside Teatro Juárez
inside Teatro Juárez
Teatro Juárez
Teatro Juárez
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Museo Casa Diego Rivera
at the top of the funicular looking down on Guanajuato
at the top of the funicular looking down on Guanajuato
view of Guanajuato from the ridge
view of Guanajuato from the ridge
Universidad de Guanajuato
Universidad de Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Mayólica Santa Rosa in Santa Rosa de Lima
Mayólica Santa Rosa in Santa Rosa de Lima
Conservas Santa Rosa in Santa Rosa de Lima
Conservas Santa Rosa in Santa Rosa de Lima
Nuestra Señora de los Dolores parish church
Nuestra Señora de los Dolores parish church
our Airbnb in San Miguel de Allende
our Airbnb in San Miguel de Allende
Mike at La Gruta hot springs
Mike at La Gruta hot springs
La Gruta
La Gruta
Nirvana
Nirvana
Santuario de Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco
Santuario de Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco
Santuario de Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco
Santuario de Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco
Tres Raíces Winery
Tres Raíces Winery
Mike at Tres Raíces Winery
Mike at Tres Raíces Winery
Templo de San Francisco
Templo de San Francisco
me in San Miguel de Allende
me in San Miguel de Allende
Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel
Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel
me in San Miguel de Allende
me in San Miguel de Allende
El Charco del Ingenio
El Charco del Ingenio
El Charco del Ingenio
El Charco del Ingenio
El Charco del Ingenio
El Charco del Ingenio
Mike at El Charco del Ingenio
Mike at El Charco del Ingenio
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
me at the Mine of Santa Brigida
me at the Mine of Santa Brigida
Arcos Mágicos at the Mine of Santa Brigida
Arcos Mágicos at the Mine of Santa Brigida
"Hornos Jesuitas" (smelting ovens) at the Mine of Santa Brigida
“Hornos Jesuitas” (smelting ovens) at the Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida

March was: A month of meeting fellow Instagrammers and bloggers, Ben and Peta of Empty Nesters on a Green Global Trek at the lively Mercado SANO, an organic market in San Miguel de Allende with great produce, excellent food, crafts and live music; we took a taxi together to the San Antonio neighborhood and saw the beautiful home that they recently renovated. A month of exploring Fábrica la Aurora, a large art gallery in barrio Aurora, then visiting the cute little Museo la Esquina del Juguete (Toy Corner Museum) not far from our apartment. A month of driving about 1 1/2 hours to Querétaro, checking into our hotel, and visiting the Templo y antiguo convento de San Antonio and walking through Plaza de la Corregidora and a street of shops selling Quinceañera and first communion dresses. A month of visiting the Museo de Arte de Querétaro, located in a beautiful baroque former convent. A month savoring a fondue dinner at Bistrot Chez Julien. A month of driving about an hour northeast of Querétaro to visit San Sebastián Bernal & its famous Peña de Bernal, a monolith which Mike partly climbed while I wandered around the charming town. A month of vegetarian pizza & 75-minute Swedish massages in our hotel, the first we had on this trip. A month of strolling around through the Centro Histórico de Querétaro, one highlight of which was MUCAL, the Museo del Calendario, housed in a gorgeous building with numerous flowering courtyards. A month in which we visited the Museo Regional de Querétaro, housed in another beautiful monastery. A month topped off by a visit to the Mercado de la Cruz, the city’s large covered market, and a lovely dinner and sunset on the terrace of our hotel, Casa Aspeytia. A month driving 3 1/2 hours back to Mexico City on Wednesday, the 5th, where we turned in the rental car and checked in at the airport for our 4:50 p.m. flight to San Salvador, which was delayed, and then on to Dulles, arriving home at 4 a.m. Thursday. A month of returning on March 6 to the U.S. hellscape we have to call home after we wrapped up our trip in Mexico. A month of being immediately barraged with continual Trump/Musk nonsense, cruelty and chaos, which will continue to wreak havoc on the next four years of our lives. A month in which our current regime: ruined what was a good economy under Biden; tanked the stock market; methodically dismantled the entire U.S. government, including the “soft power” agency of USAID that helped people all over the world; imposed outrageous tariffs on our allies; and belittled and threatened Canada, Greenland and Ukraine’s war hero and president Zelenskyy. A month of feeling vile hatred for these incompetent and destructive people with every ounce of my being; I will never forgive the people that chose this Nazi-loving administration over Kamala Harris and Tim Walz. A month of visiting the eye doctor and getting a new pair of glasses. A month of watching the Brazilian movie, I’m Still Here, at Angelika Theatre, which was incredibly disturbing; it showed what can happen in dictatorships when governments decide to make people “disappear.” A month of feeling powerless as our country descends into full-blown fascism. A month of watching the newest (3rd) season of White Lotus, in which obnoxious rich people treat other people like crap, apropos for Amerikkka. A month of crab cakes at Arties and Larb Gai at Vienna Thai and Bar. A month celebrating Alex’s 34th birthday on the 10th in Atlanta via WhatsApp; Jandira treated them both to couples massages and then a nice dinner out. A month in which we booked a house near Tilaran, on Lake Arenal, in Costa Rica beginning on June 1; we hope to frequently travel across the border into Nicaragua and visit the family in Ometepe. A month in which Alex and Jandira agreed to live in our house while we’re gone which helps them and us at the same time; other than a short visit in early October for Allie’s 2nd birthday, we hope not to return home until May 31, 2026, and then only briefly. A month of decluttering, designing a new closet, and buying a new laptop; our goal is to boycott as much as possible in the U.S. for at least 75% of the next four years. A month in which our daughter Sarah secured a new job as a paralegal in Richmond, VA, enabling her to move back to her favorite city from Virginia Beach. A month of going downtown to Politics & Prose in D.C. to listen to a book talk given by my ex-husband (& my daughter Sarah’s father), William Geroux, on his newest book: The Fifteen: Murder, Retribution & the Forgotten Story of Nazi POWS in America, followed by dinner at Comet Ping Pong; the place is an old D.C. standby but infuriatingly, since the rise of conspiracy theories and outright lies beginning with the FELON’s rise in 2016, the restaurant was the focus of the Pizzagate conspiracy theory, which has been discredited by a wide variety of organizations, including the Metropolitan Police Department of the District of Columbia. A month of finishing 4 books, bringing my total to 11/48 for the year, with my favorites being North of Dawn by Nuruddin Farah and A Harvest of Secrets by Roland Merullo. A month of watching several movies once we returned home, including I’m Still Here, which I mentioned above, but also the Academy Award-winning Anora and Il treno dei bambini (The Children’s Train). A month of starting several series including The Split and White Lotus; we finished watching Apple Cider Vinegar and we continued watching Younger, The Äre Murders, Pachinko, Virgin River, Paradise, Valeria, Black Doves, The Upshaws, and Modern Family. A month that ended with a long 1,392 days left in our right-wing oligarchy.

  • the march cocktail hour: san miguel de allende, querétaro, & return to the u.s. hellscape
me, Mike and Ben at the market
me, Mike and Ben at the market
me with Peta
me with Peta
murals in San Antonio neighborhood
murals in San Antonio neighborhood
Mike & me at Fábrica la Aurora
Mike & me at Fábrica la Aurora
Museo la Esquina del Juguete (Toy Corner Museum)
Museo la Esquina del Juguete (Toy Corner Museum)
Museo de Arte de Querétaro
Museo de Arte de Querétaro
Mike at Museo de Arte de Querétaro
Mike at Museo de Arte de Querétaro
Museo de Arte de Querétaro
Museo de Arte de Querétaro
Museo de Arte de Querétaro
Museo de Arte de Querétaro
Museo de Arte de Querétaro
Museo de Arte de Querétaro
Museo de Arte de Querétaro
Museo de Arte de Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
San Sebastián Bernal & Peña de Bernal
San Sebastián Bernal & Peña de Bernal
Peña de Bernal
Peña de Bernal
San Sebastián Bernal & Peña de Bernal
San Sebastián Bernal & Peña de Bernal
Peña de Bernal
Peña de Bernal
San Sebastián Bernal
San Sebastián Bernal
San Sebastián Bernal
San Sebastián Bernal
MUCAL, the Museo del Calendario
MUCAL, the Museo del Calendario
MUCAL, the Museo del Calendario
MUCAL, the Museo del Calendario
MUCAL, the Museo del Calendario
MUCAL, the Museo del Calendario
MUCAL, the Museo del Calendario
MUCAL, the Museo del Calendario
MUCAL, the Museo del Calendario
MUCAL, the Museo del Calendario
Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
Museo Regional de Querétaro
Museo Regional de Querétaro
Museo Regional de Querétaro
Museo Regional de Querétaro
Museo Regional de Querétaro
Museo Regional de Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
Mercado de la Cruz
Mercado de la Cruz
Terraza la Grupa
Terraza la Grupa
me with my Ford Bronco Sport
me with my Ford Bronco Sport
Mike at El Manantial
Mike at El Manantial
me at Artie's
me at Artie’s
Thomas Kapsidelis and William Geroux (r) at Bill's book talk at Politics & Prose
Thomas Kapsidelis and William Geroux (r) at Bill’s book talk at Politics & Prose
me at Politics & Prose
me at Politics & Prose
Bill's book
Bill’s book
Mike at Comet Ping Pong
Mike at Comet Ping Pong
Comet Ping Pong
Comet Ping Pong

April was: A month of preparing our house for our son and his family to move in & house-sit when we move to Costa Rica for a year. A month of sorting through and tossing clothes, and then organizing the remainder in an Elfa closet we had installed in our smallest bedroom. A month of walking amongst springtime tulips and cherry blossoms and attending a couple of yoga sessions. A month of having my hearing tested; it’s getting worse but not to the point of needing hearing aids – yet. A month of sushi, pastichio, Indian food at Woodlands, and a Good Friday Italian lunch at Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown, surrounded by an extravaganza of Easter bunnies, cherry blossoms, and painted eggs. A month of walking by the Ukrainian Embassy in a show of solidarity for their endless fight against Russia, and feeling disgusted by our current administration and their gaslighting nonsense and outright lies about the war. A month when the world lost Pope Francis, a progressive pope who cared about the poor and the suffering, unlike the MAGA and so-called “Christian” Nationalists of the U.S. A month of thumbing our nose at fascists by drinking “Gulf of Mexico” and “Lady Justice” beers from the progressive Wisconsin brewery, Minocqua Brewing Company. A month of eating delectable meat mantu and lamb shanks at Mazadar. A month of upgrading my iPhone to an iPhone 16 Pro and all the hassle that the process entailed. A month of power washing and sealing our screened-in porch and replacing our roof. A month helping Sarah settle into her new apartment in Richmond and celebrating her 41st birthday with wine and dinner at Alewife. A month in which I was able to see a Frida Kahlo exhibit at the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts, since I missed seeing anything “Frida” in Mexico. A month of finishing 4 books, bringing my total to 15/48 for the year, with my favorites being Disappearing Earth by Julia Phillips and What You Are Looking For Is in the Library by Michiko Aoyama. A month of watching several movies: La Dulce Villa and Sult (A Copenhagen Love Story) on Netflix and The Ballad of Wallis Island at Cinema Arts Theatre. A month in which we finished the 3rd season of White Lotus, the 4th of The Upshaws, and the 6th of Virgin River, the 1st of The Äre Murders and Paradise, and the final seasons of Modern Family, Valeria, and the Turkish show Kimler Geldi Kimler Geçti (Thank You, Next). A month of starting several series: Dying for Sex, The West Wing, Long Bright River, Your Friends & Neighbors, & Severance, as well as continuing to watch The Split, Younger, & Unforgotten. A month that ended with a long 1,362 days left in our right-wing oligarchy.

  • the april cocktail hour: prepping our house for our son & family to housesit
Walk around Lake Anne in Reston
Walk around Lake Anne in Reston
cherry blossoms in Reston
cherry blossoms in Reston
Mike at Woodlands
Mike at Woodlands
me at Woodlands
me at Woodlands
new Elfa closet units
new Elfa closet units
the clothes in the new closet :-)
the clothes in the new closet 🙂
the clothes in the new closet :-)
the clothes in the new closet 🙂
tulip mania in Vienna, VA
tulip mania in Vienna, VA
redbud in our neighborhood
redbud in our neighborhood
Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Mike atFilomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Mike atFilomena Restaurante in Georgetown
me at Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
me at Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Georgetown murals
Georgetown murals
Ukrainian Embassy in Georgetown
Ukrainian Embassy in Georgetown
Ukrainian Embassy in Georgetown
Ukrainian Embassy in Georgetown
Georgetown murals
Georgetown murals
img_0065
in the Verizon store getting my new iPhone
in the Verizon store getting my new iPhone
our newly sealed screened porch
our newly sealed screened porch
our newly sealed screened porch
our newly sealed screened porch
me on the colorful cushions at Mazadar
me on the colorful cushions at Mazadar
Mike at Mazadar
Mike at Mazadar
Frida: Beyond the Myth at VMFA
Frida: Beyond the Myth at VMFA
Frida in Bed at her Home, Coyoacán, 1952 by Bernice Kolko
Frida in Bed at her Home, Coyoacán, 1952 by Bernice Kolko
Frida Kahlo, Xochimilco, Mexico, 1941 by Rosa Covarrubias
Frida Kahlo, Xochimilco, Mexico, 1941 by Rosa Covarrubias
Frida Kahlo, 1931 by Imogen Cunningham
Frida Kahlo, 1931 by Imogen Cunningham
Still Life with Parrot and Flag, 1951 by Frida Kahlo
Still Life with Parrot and Flag, 1951 by Frida Kahlo
Self-Portrait with Loose Hair, 1947 by Frida Kahlo
Self-Portrait with Loose Hair, 1947 by Frida Kahlo
Self-Portrait with Monkey, 1945 by Frida Kahlo
Self-Portrait with Monkey, 1945 by Frida Kahlo
Frida in Thought, 1944 by Sylvia Salmi
Frida in Thought, 1944 by Sylvia Salmi
Frida Kahlo in New York, 1946 by Nickolas Muray
Frida Kahlo in New York, 1946 by Nickolas Muray
Friday with Olmeca Figurine, Coyoacán, 1939 by Nickolas Muray
Friday with Olmeca Figurine, Coyoacán, 1939 by Nickolas Muray
Sarah blows out a birthday candle
Sarah blows out a birthday candle
Sarah and me at Alewife
Sarah and me at Alewife
new roof ini progress
new roof ini progress
Allie in Atlanta
Allie in Atlanta
Allie in Atlanta
Allie in Atlanta
Adam and Mike in Nicaragua
Adam and Mike in Nicaragua
Mia and little Mikey in Nicaragua
Mia and little Mikey in Nicaragua

May was: A month of continuing to declutter and prepare our house for our son and his family to move in & house-sit when we move to Costa Rica for a year. A month of Mike cutting back to an hourly schedule and switching our medical insurance to Medicare. A month of various medical appointments for Mike and me. A month of arranging to buy a used car in Costa Rica and putting down a deposit. A month of dirty martinis and lots of laughs at Se7en with our friends Karen & Michael. A month of Mike zipping his leg open on a lane hook at the pool, requiring 6 stitches inside and 26 stitches outside his right calf. A month getting recessed lights put in throughout our house and getting repairs done to our garage door. A month of getting our Real IDs. A month of eating delectable mezze at Lebanese Taverna with Mike’s sister Barbara to celebrate Mother’s Day. A month when Mike’s friend Mike from Ohio came for an overnight visit. A month of eating Chili Softshell Crab and braised beef Massaman at Tiki Thai. A month when Alex, Jandira and Allie came to visit to attend Louisa & Edwin’s wedding; we went to the rehearsal BBQ dinner but didn’t go to the wedding, opting instead to babysit Allie. A month in which we took off for Costa Rica on the 31st, spending the night in Cañas before checking into our Airbnb on Lake Arenal on June 1. A month of finishing 8 books, bringing my total to 23/48 for the year, with my favorites being Oh William! by Elizabeth Strout, Revolutionary Road by Richard Yates, The Summer House by Philip Teir, and Behold the Dreamers by Imbolo Mbue; I also read On Tyranny by Timothy Snyder, which basically outlines twenty lessons learned from 1930s Germany and Stalin’s Russia, and draws parallels with what is happening in the U.S. now. A month in which we eeked out time to watch two movies, Conclave, which was appropriate since Pope Francis died and the conclave picked a new pope during May, and Revolutionary Road, based on the book I read this month. A month of starting several series: The Four Seasons, Istanbul Encyclopedia, & W1A and continuing to watch The Split, Younger, Dying for Sex, The West Wing, Long Bright River, Your Friends & Neighbors, Severance & Unforgotten. A month that ended with a long 1,331 days left in our right-wing oligarchy.

  • the may cocktail hour: final wrap up, a wedding & leaving for costa rica
Allie at the pool in Atlanta
Allie at the pool in Atlanta
margarita time
margarita time
Mike, me, Michael & Karen at Se7en
Mike, me, Michael & Karen at Se7en
Mike and his 26 stitches on his leg on May 6
Mike and his 26 stitches on his leg on May 6
Barbara at Lebanese Taverna
Barbara at Lebanese Taverna
Mike and me at Lebanese Taverna
Mike and me at Lebanese Taverna
me at Lebanese Taverna
me at Lebanese Taverna
the two Mikes
the two Mikes
me at Tiki Thai
me at Tiki Thai
Mike, Allie and me
Mike, Allie and me
Mike, Allie & Alex
Mike, Allie & Alex
Allie & the peonies
Allie & the peonies
Allie & the peonies
Allie & the peonies
Louisa & Edwin, the bride and groom to be
Louisa & Edwin, the bride and groom to be
Alex and Nick - fast friends
Alex and Nick – fast friends
Jandira & Alex
Jandira & Alex
Alex carries Allie
Alex carries Allie
Alex & Jandira on the way to the wedding
Alex & Jandira on the way to the wedding
Allie
Allie
Allie & me
Allie & me
Allie & Dido
Allie & Dido
Jandira and Alex at the wedding
Jandira and Alex at the wedding
Nick and Alex
Nick and Alex
little Mikey in Nicaragua
little Mikey in Nicaragua
Allie with her new orange boots
Allie with her new orange boots
Jandira, Serena, Cindy, Alex and Allie
Jandira, Serena, Cindy, Alex and Allie
me at Reagan National at 5:30 a.m.
me at Reagan National at 5:30 a.m.
flying into Miami
flying into Miami
Mike on the plane
Mike on the plane
me on Puenta Real at Hotel Hacienda La Pacifica
me on Puenta Real at Hotel Hacienda La Pacifica
Hotel Hacienda La Pacifica
Hotel Hacienda La Pacifica
Mike sips tequila
Mike sips tequila
statues on the grounds at Hotel Hacienda La Pacifica
statues on the grounds at Hotel Hacienda La Pacifica
lizard atHotel Hacienda La Pacifica
lizard atHotel Hacienda La Pacifica

June was: Our first month of moving to and living in Guanacaste, Costa Rica, near Tilaran on the shores of Lake Arenal. A month of stocking up on household items to make our home-away-from-home feel more like a real home. A month of Mike continuing to do some consulting for his company and me beginning a new blog: a pura vida year in costa rica. A month of buying a used 2014 Mistubishi ASX and relearning a stick shift. A month of taking hilly walks through stunning countryside, joining the Monster Gym in Tilaran, and taking up yoga at Living Forest Lodge & Retreat Center. A month of exploring the tidy town of Tronadora, including the beautiful Peninsula 1, until the road there nearly washed away and was in the midst of being repaired under threat of immenent collapse. A month of exploring local cuisine at Brisas del Lago, Mary’s Restaurante with our friend Bruce, Café & Macadamia, Beer Garden Tinajas, Chicharronera on Peninsula 1 in Tronadora, and Cevichera La Pasadita. A month of celebrating Father’s Day at Gingerbread in Nuevo Arenal, owned by an Israeli man who has lived in Costa Rica for 23 years. A month of making many soups using chorizo, ground beef & chicken; our favorite creation so far has been the chorizo, potato and green bean soup we made with the chorizo we got from Rigoberto in Tronadora. A month of driving the mountains around Lake Arenal, often on gravel or potholed roads, gasping at the gorgeous greenery and scenery, and trying to breathe when we got stuck behind trucks or buses belching black smoke. A month of a two-night escape from the rain to visit Playa Hermosa, where we enjoyed great food at Ginger, Café Corazon, and Hacienda Blu Beach Lounge & Grill; lounged on the beach; swam in the gentle Pacific; met interesting & lively fellow travelers, and read books: for me, Paul Theroux’s The Old Patagonian Express. A month in which we got the Permiso de Salida from the Registro de la Propiedad in order to take our car out of the country and into Nicaragua. A month in which Trump bombed nuclear sites in Iran after he had sparse attendance at his 79th birthday military parade while millions marched peacefully across the country on “No Kings Day” to protest his cruel White Supremacist fascist administration. A month in which I beat Mike at several games of online Scrabble. A month in which we deepened our connections to the community, took our first cash out of an ATM, found a barber for Mike, discovered La Casa del Plastica (a store that sells plastic goods), ate tacos and listened to Olsen del Torro sing at Lake Arenal Brewery’s Taco Tuesday, found a farm where yogurt is sold, enjoyed the pool, and went to Nuevo Arenal where we ate at the German Bakery and checked out a Farmacia Organica. A month in which I finished 2 books, bringing my total to 25/48; I enjoyed both: The Old Patagonian Express by Paul Theroux and The Confessions of Frances Godwin by Robert Hellenga. A month during which we watched two good movies: The Wrong Track (På Villspor) and the 2022 movie, What’s Love got to do with it?  A month of beginning several series: Togetherness, Pernille (Pørni), The Secrets We Keep, and Sara: Woman in the Shadows, and finishing Four Seasons, Bad Sisters, and Your Friends & Neighbors. A month in which we continued watching Istanbul Encyclopedia, Younger, North of North, The Manny, and Severance. A month that ended with a long 1,301 days left in our right-wing fascist oligarchy.

  • the june cocktail hour: our first month in costa rica
Our house on Lake Arenal
Our house on Lake Arenal
our Airbnb in Buena Vista near San Luis, Costa Rica
our Airbnb in Buena Vista near San Luis, Costa Rica
Mike on our balcony
Mike on our balcony
our Airbnb in Buena Vista near San Luis, Costa Rica
our Airbnb in Buena Vista near San Luis, Costa Rica
me on our balcony
me on our balcony
the pool in our community
the pool in our community
the cove & boat dock
the cove & boat dock
our 2014 Mitsubishi ASX
our 2014 Mitsubishi ASX
Mike in Tronadora
Mike in Tronadora
church in Tronadora
church in Tronadora
Soda Doña Chila in Tronadora
Soda Doña Chila in Tronadora
Soda Doña Chila in Tronadora
Soda Doña Chila in Tronadora
Tronadora
Tronadora
pretty yellow church in Aguacate
pretty yellow church in Aguacate
Beer Garden Tinajas
Beer Garden Tinajas
me at Beer Garden Tinajas
me at Beer Garden Tinajas
rainbow seen over Lake Arenal from Nuevo Arenal
rainbow seen over Lake Arenal from Nuevo Arenal
Mike & Bruce at Mary's
Mike & Bruce at Mary’s
drive up to Cerro Tovar, Parque del Viento
drive up to Cerro Tovar, Parque del Viento
Tilaran seen from Cerro Tovar, Parque del Viento
Tilaran seen from Cerro Tovar, Parque del Viento
Mike at Chicharronera on Peninsula 1
Mike at Chicharronera on Peninsula 1
Mike on Father's Day at Gingerbread
Mike on Father’s Day at Gingerbread
Gingerbread
Gingerbread
me at Gingerbread
me at Gingerbread
a walk up on a gravel road outside Tilaran
a walk up on a gravel road outside Tilaran
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Mike at Playa Hermosa
Mike at Playa Hermosa
me at Playa Hermosa
me at Playa Hermosa
Mike at Playa Hermosa
Mike at Playa Hermosa
Mike at sunset at Hotel el Velero
Mike at sunset at Hotel el Velero
character at Hotel el Velero
character at Hotel el Velero
me at Ginger
me at Ginger
Mike at Ginger
Mike at Ginger
Leche frita con helado
Leche frita con helado
Café Corazon
Café Corazon
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
me at Playa Hermosa
me at Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Mike at Hotel el Velero
Mike at Hotel el Velero
me at Hotel el Velero
me at Hotel el Velero
me at Hotel el Velero
me at Hotel el Velero
Mike at Monster Gym
Mike at Monster Gym
cows on Peninsula 1
cows on Peninsula 1
Mike at Soda Doña Chila in Tronadora
Mike at Soda Doña Chila in Tronadora
My first day driving the stick shift
My first day driving the stick shift
Mike has his first haircut in Costa Rica
Mike has his first haircut in Costa Rica
Mike at Taco Tuesday at Lake Arenal Brewery
Mike at Taco Tuesday at Lake Arenal Brewery
Taco Tuesday at Lake Arenal Brewery
Taco Tuesday at Lake Arenal Brewery
Yoga studio at Living Forest Lodge & Retreat Center
Yoga studio at Living Forest Lodge & Retreat Center
sauna at Living Forest Lodge & Retreat Center
sauna at Living Forest Lodge & Retreat Center
Mike at Tisú Farm
Mike at Tisú Farm
the roadwork on the road to Tronadora
the roadwork on the road to Tronadora
bus stop mural on the way to Tronadora
bus stop mural on the way to Tronadora
Tronadora town park
Tronadora town park
horse we found on the way to Tronadora
horse we found on the way to Tronadora
German Bakery
German Bakery
Mike at the German Bakery
Mike at the German Bakery
German Bakery
German Bakery
Farmacia Organica in Nuevo Arenal
Farmacia Organica in Nuevo Arenal
me at Cevichera La Pasadita
me at Cevichera La Pasadita

July was: Our second month living in San Luis, Costa Rica, on the shore of Lake Arenal. A month of two pedicures, one called a “Ukrainian pedi.” A month of online Scrabble games where I was on a winning streak until Mike finally achieved his own victories. A month of birds serenading us around our house – Red-lored Amazon parrots, Crimson-fronted parakeets, and Tropical Kingbirds – as well as a hummingbird building a nest and laying eggs outside our kitchen window (sadly the hummingbird met an untimely end while we traveled). A month of a blessing of the boats on Lake Arenal and an open-water swim competition. A month of visiting Adam & family in Ometepe, Nicaragua for 6 nights, during which we watched Cristy march in a parade in Altagracia as Queen of her school and watched Andrea and Mia practice gymnastics in preparation for a competition in Managua (Andrea won gold in the floor exercises at the competition after we left). A month of beach days at Xalli, a day a Ojo de Agua, and dining out at Libélula Café, Xalli and take-out pizza from Pizzeria Mediterranea with the family. A month of bracelets and ice cream at the Saturday market with the girls. A month in which Mike and I went on a chocolate tour at El Pital Chocolate Paradise and drank ceremonial doses of cacao. A month of beach walks at Lake Nicaragua and at Tamarindo in Costa Rica, where we went for 2 nights. A month in which I got a shopping fix in the westernized beach town of Tamarindo and we ate Italian at Fish & Cheeses, a hamburger wrap at Cha Café, sushi at Kabuto Sushi, and tacos at Little Lucha. A month of taking an Estuary Boat Tour in Tamarindo where we saw mangroves, vultures, termite nests, green herons, black-bellied whistling ducks, a yellow-headed caracara, howler monkeys and scuttling red crabs, but no crocodiles or leatherback turtles. A month of dancing to Jimmy Loop at Lake Arenal Brewery and listening to “Smooth Jazz on the Lake” at La Tortuga. A month of dining out at Soda La Macha, Guadalupe, La Pradera, Paseo del Viento, Moya’s Place, Playa Tila, and La Pasadita. A month in which I finished 3 books, bringing my total to 28/48: I learned a lot about the Panama Canal in Cristina Henríquez’s The Great Divide and I truly enjoyed Speak, Silence by Kim Echlin. A month during which we watched one mediocre movie, Nonnas, and one enjoyable movie: The Life List. A month of beginning several series:  Maid, The Survivors, and Letters from the Past; and finishing The Secrets We Keep, The Manny, Istanbul Encyclopedia, Thank You, Next, and Sara: Woman in the Shadows. A month in which we continued watching Togetherness, Pernille (Pørni), North of North, Seinfeld and Severance. A month that ended with a long 1,270 days left of the U.S. right-wing fascist oligarchy, which we are watching from afar with great disgust.

  • the july cocktail hour: a trip to ometepe, nicaragua; a beach getaway to tamarindo; & homebody activities
Taco Tuesday at Lake Arenal Brewery
Taco Tuesday at Lake Arenal Brewery
Beauty S.O.S.
Beauty S.O.S.
dipping in the creek after the sauna at Living Forest
dipping in the creek after the sauna at Living Forest
me at Soda La Macha
me at Soda La Macha
me at Playa Tila
me at Playa Tila
a walk near Tronadora introduced us to Santiago and his pitaya farm
a walk near Tronadora introduced us to Santiago and his pitaya farm
Mike at Lake Arenal Brewery
Mike at Lake Arenal Brewery
Lake Arenal Brewery
Lake Arenal Brewery
Mike at the pool reading Behold the Dreamers
Mike at the pool reading Behold the Dreamers
me at the pool
me at the pool
wasp nest in process
wasp nest in process
me at Moya's Place
me at Moya’s Place
Mike at Moya's Place
Mike at Moya’s Place
Moya's Place
Moya’s Place
Blessing of the Boats
Blessing of the Boats
Mike eats ice cream at Pop's
Mike eats ice cream at Pop’s
Soda Doña Chila
Soda Doña Chila
Mike on the ferry to Ometepe
Mike on the ferry to Ometepe
Xalli on Ometepe
Xalli on Ometepe
walk on the beach from Xalli
walk on the beach from Xalli
Adam leads Mia on the slack line
Adam leads Mia on the slack line
little Mike
little Mike
Andrea and Mia in a tree
Andrea and Mia in a tree
El Pital Chocolate Paradise
El Pital Chocolate Paradise
Cristy marches in the parade as "Queen of her school"
Cristy marches in the parade as “Queen of her school”
Adam & Mike
Adam & Mike
beach walk
beach walk
beach walk
beach walk
beach walk
beach walk
Andrea, Maria, Adam, Mike, Mia and Cristy
Andrea, Maria, Adam, Mike, Mia and Cristy
Andrea, Mike and Mia at the Xalli Beach
Andrea, Mike and Mia at the Xalli Beach
little Mike at the beach
little Mike at the beach
Adam and Mike at the beach
Adam and Mike at the beach
Cristy at Xalli
Cristy at Xalli
Big Mike and little Mike
Big Mike and little Mike
beach walk at Xalli
beach walk at Xalli
me, Andrea, Mike and Adam at Ojo de Agua
me, Andrea, Mike and Adam at Ojo de Agua
Adam, Mike and Maria
Adam, Mike and Maria
El Pital Chocolate Tour
El Pital Chocolate Tour
Mike at El Pital Chocolate Tour
Mike at El Pital Chocolate Tour
me at El Pital Chocolate Tour
me at El Pital Chocolate Tour
little Mike at Xalli
little Mike at Xalli
little Mike at Xalli
little Mike at Xalli
Andrea at Xalli
Andrea at Xalli
Mia, Andrea and Cristy at
Mia, Andrea and Cristy at
Maria and Mike in their kitchen
Maria and Mike in their kitchen
bracelets for the girls
bracelets for the girls
me with the girls at the ice cream shop
me with the girls at the ice cream shop
Mike, Adam and Maria
Mike, Adam and Maria
me on the ferry
me on the ferry
looking back at Volcán Concepcion on Ometepe
looking back at Volcán Concepcion on Ometepe
Mike on the ferry
Mike on the ferry
Mike at Playa Tila
Mike at Playa Tila
a horse we met on our way walking up through San Luis
a horse we met on our way walking up through San Luis
Playa Tila
Playa Tila
Mike at La Tortuga
Mike at La Tortuga
me at La Tortuga
me at La Tortuga
La Tortuga
La Tortuga
eggs in the nest
eggs in the nest
Cha Cafe in Tamarindo
Cha Cafe in Tamarindo
Cha Cafe in Tamarindo
Cha Cafe in Tamarindo
BOHO Tamarindo
BOHO Tamarindo
BOHO Tamarindo
BOHO Tamarindo
Langosta Beach Club
Langosta Beach Club
Langosta Beach Club
Langosta Beach Club
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beaach
Tamarindo Beaach
Mike and me at Fish & Cheeses
Mike and me at Fish & Cheeses
Estuary Boat Tour
Estuary Boat Tour
Estuary Boat Tour
Estuary Boat Tour
Estuary Boat Tour
Estuary Boat Tour
Estuary Boat Tour
Estuary Boat Tour
Estuary Boat Tour
Estuary Boat Tour
Estuary Boat Tour
Estuary Boat Tour
market in Tamarindo
market in Tamarindo
me in a unicorn inner tube
me in a unicorn inner tube
Little Lucha
Little Lucha
Kabuto Sushi
Kabuto Sushi
my Summer Bingo Card at July 31
my Summer Bingo Card at July 31

August was: Our third month living in San Luis, Costa Rica, on the shore of Lake Arenal. A month of one pedicure and a hair hydration, 3x/week workouts at Monster Gym and once a week yoga. A month of more online Scrabble games where Mike and I each claimed victories. A month of birds serenading us each morning: Keel-billed Toucans, Red-lored Parrots, Orange-chinned parakeets, and Great-tailed Grackles. A month which began with leaving Tamarindo in Costa Rica, where we had been for 2 nights. A month of a 2-hour stint witnessing our 80-year-old friends, Anne and Jack, sign their will and then being treated to lunch after at Restaurante Tinajas. A month of listening to tunes from Charly Lopez from Uruguay on Taco Tuesday and sampling Cuban food and music by Olsen del Toro on Día de las Madres at Lake Arenal Brewery (with Anne & Jack). A month of dining out at Gutierrez Family Pizzeria Express, Equus, Wabi Sabi Sushi, Hacienda La Pacifica Eco-Lodge, Plaza Paseo del Viento with our friend Carol, Restaurante Linda Vista with friends Darrell and Farida, Soda La Macha, and Vento Bistro. A month of attending a cool Desfile de Caballistas (Parade of Horsemen), as part of the Celebramos 102 Años de Cantonato del 21-31 Agosto 2025 (celebrating 102 years of Tilarán as a canton). A month of visiting La Fortuna, the area around Volcán Arenal at the east end of Lake Arenal, where we enjoyed upscale thermal springs from Volcán Arenal at Baldi Hot Springs; went whitewater rafting on the Class III-IV Río Sarapiqui; descended 517 steps to the Catarata Río Fortuna and swam in the surrounding pools; hiked a boring trail at Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal; enjoyed a mediocre massage at Spa Luz de Luna; and visited Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park in the rainforest of La Fortuna. A month in which I checked off many experiences on my Summer Bingo Card, including: kayak, paddleboard and swim in the lake, beach time, make corn soup with shrimp, have a frozen drink on a rooftop, paddleboard and swim in the lake, and visit a puma sanctuary. A month in which I finished 3 books, bringing my total to 31/48: I especially enjoyed Out Stealing Horses by Per Petterson. A month during which we watched three movies, The Penguin Lessons (Argentina), My Oxford Year, and Fall for Me (Mallorca), all of which we enjoyed. A month of beginning several series:  Territory, Asura no Gotoku, If Only (Si lo hubiera sabido), and Platonic and finishing North of North, Tuiskoms, Letters from the Past (Gelecege Mektuplar), and The Survivors (excellent!). A month in which we continued watching Togetherness, Pernille (Pørni), Maid, Younger, and Seinfeld. A month in which we made a decision to stop watching Severance: it’s just too bizarre and not our thing.  A month that ended with a long 1,239 days left in the U.S. right-wing fascist oligarchy, which we were watching from afar with great angst and anger.

  • the august cocktail hour: local gatherings, la fortuna adventures, & a “desfile de caballistas” 
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Santiago's pitaya farm
Santiago’s pitaya farm
Gutierrez Family Pizzeria Express
Gutierrez Family Pizzeria Express
Gutierrez Family Pizzeria Express
Gutierrez Family Pizzeria Express
Mike at Gutierrez Family Pizzeria Express
Mike at Gutierrez Family Pizzeria Express
me at Gutierrez Family Pizzeria Express
me at Gutierrez Family Pizzeria Express
Gutierrez Family Pizzeria Express
Gutierrez Family Pizzeria Express
ready to kayak on the lake
ready to kayak on the lake
kayaking on Lake Arenal
kayaking on Lake Arenal
Lunch at Equus
Lunch at Equus
Keel-billed Toucan in our tree
Keel-billed Toucan in our tree
Santuario Las Pumas in Cañas
Santuario Las Pumas in Cañas
Santuario Las Pumas in Cañas
Santuario Las Pumas in Cañas
me with my frozen drink on the rooftop
me with my frozen drink on the rooftop
pool day
pool day
paddle boarding on the lake
paddle boarding on the lake
Mike paddle boarding on the lake
Mike paddle boarding on the lake
me paddle boarding on the lake
me paddle boarding on the lake
Taco Tuesday at Lake Arenal Brewery with Charly Lopez from Uruguay
Taco Tuesday at Lake Arenal Brewery with Charly Lopez from Uruguay
Anne & Jack at Lake Arenal Brewery
Anne & Jack at Lake Arenal Brewery
Cuban night at Lake Arenal Brewery with Olsen del Toro and his mother
Cuban night at Lake Arenal Brewery with Olsen del Toro and his mother
Jack, Nixon, me and Anne at Restaurante Tinajas
Jack, Nixon, me and Anne at Restaurante Tinajas
mural at Restaurante Tinajas
mural at Restaurante Tinajas
Carol and Mike atPaseo del Viento
Carol and Mike atPaseo del Viento
me at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
me at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
Mike at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
Mike at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
Mike doing tree pose at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
Mike doing tree pose at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
Spicy Sloth and Green Gin at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
Spicy Sloth and Green Gin at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
me at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
me at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
whitewater rafting on the Río Sarapiqui
whitewater rafting on the Río Sarapiqui
whitewater rafting on the Río Sarapiqui
whitewater rafting on the Río Sarapiqui
Mike jumps into the Río Sarapiqui
Mike jumps into the Río Sarapiqui
Me, Mike, Carlos and Monica from Madrid on our whitewater rafting trip
Me, Mike, Carlos and Monica from Madrid on our whitewater rafting trip
me at Catarata Río Fortuna
me at Catarata Río Fortuna
me at Catarata Río Fortuna
me at Catarata Río Fortuna
Mike at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mike at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Turquoise-browed Motmot at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Turquoise-browed Motmot at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mike at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mike at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Desfile de Caballistas (Parade of Horsemen) in Tilarán
Desfile de Caballistas (Parade of Horsemen) in Tilarán
me at Desfile de Caballistas (Parade of Horsemen) in Tilarán
me at Desfile de Caballistas (Parade of Horsemen) in Tilarán
Desfile de Caballistas (Parade of Horsemen) in Tilarán
Desfile de Caballistas (Parade of Horsemen) in Tilarán
Toucans seen August 27
Toucans seen August 27
pedicure at S.O.S. Beauty Salon
pedicure at S.O.S. Beauty Salon
Darrell & Farida at Restaurante Linda Vista
Darrell & Farida at Restaurante Linda Vista
me, Darrell, Farida and Mike at Restaurante Linda Vista
me, Darrell, Farida and Mike at Restaurante Linda Vista
me at Soda La Macha
me at Soda La Macha
Mike at Soda La Macha
Mike at Soda La Macha
beautiful sunset
beautiful sunset
Orange-chinned parakeets
Orange-chinned parakeets
me with daiquiri at Paseo del Viento
me with daiquiri at Paseo del Viento
my Summer Bingo Card as of 8/31
my Summer Bingo Card as of 8/31
my Summer Bingo Card as of 8/31
my Summer Bingo Card as of 8/31

September was: Our fourth month living in San Luis, Costa Rica, on the shore of Lake Arenal. A month of one hair hydration, 3x/week workouts at Monster Gym and once a week yoga. A month of more online Scrabble games where Mike and I each claimed victories. A month of birds serenading us each morning – Montezuma Oropendolas, Crested Guans and Bare-throated Tiger-Herons. A month of dining out at new restaurants: Marisquería Lago Arenal, Chafi’s Restaurante, the Chinese Restaurante El Lago, Hotel La Rana de Arenal, and El Corral Restaurante, as well as old standbys such as Paseo del Viento, Chicharronera, Restaurante Brisas del Lago with our friend Carol and La Pasadita with Bruce. A month of visiting the “Blue Zone” Nicoya Peninsula – Sámara & Nosara – in search of longevity. A month taking a horseback ride to La Piedra del Indio Waterfalls, soaking in the pool at the bottom and riding up to ridges in the Tilarán mountains where we enjoyed strong breezes and stunning vistas. A month in which I checked off the last few experiences (except two) on my Summer Bingo Card, including creating a summer playlist. A month in which I created a Fall Bingo Card, which is full of all kinds of plans, including going home to Virginia for two weeks and seeing the family, celebrating my 70th birthday at Celeste Mountain Lodge, going to Panama (Panama City and Bocas del Toro) in November, attending a cattle auction, putting together at least 2 of the 4 puzzles we bought, moving into our new home at Lake Arenal Condos, making lots of bean soups and root vegetable recipes, wearing cowgirl or horse tee shirts, and exploring some towns in Costa Rica’s Central Valley as well as Poás Volcano and surrounding waterfalls. A month in which I finished 5 books, bringing my total to 36/48; I especially enjoyed What We Owe by Golnaz Hashemzadeh Bonde. A month of watching four movies: a Mexican family drama called Familia; The Unforgivable starring Sandra Bullock; a mediocre Turkish movie called Sen Büyümeye Bak (In Good Hands 2); and French Lover, starring Omar Sy, that we really enjoyed. A month of starting new TV series: Toxic Town and Diary of a Ditched Girl (Halva Malmö består av killar som dumpat mig). A month of continuing to watch Younger, Seinfeld, Togetherness, Platonic, Fisk, If Only, The Morning Show (S4), and Pernille. A month of finishing Maid (depressing yet fabulous!), Territory, and Hostage (also good!). A month that ended with a long 1,209 days left in our right-wing fascist oligarchy.

  • the september cocktail hour: a nicoya peninsula getaway, a horseback ride to la piedra del indio waterfalls & a fall bingo card
Mike at Marisquería Lago Arenal
Mike at Marisquería Lago Arenal
me at Marisquería Lago Arenal
me at Marisquería Lago Arenal
Chicharronera
Chicharronera
Chicharronera
Chicharronera
me Chicharronera
me Chicharronera
Darrell, Farida and Mike at Restaurante Brisas del Lago
Darrell, Farida and Mike at Restaurante Brisas del Lago
walk to a ridge above San Luis
walk to a ridge above San Luis
walk to a ridge above San Luis
walk to a ridge above San Luis
Chafi's Restaurante
Chafi’s Restaurante
Camarones con Arroz at Chafi's Restaurante
Camarones con Arroz at Chafi’s Restaurante
Hortifress
Hortifress
Bar & Restaurante El Ancla in Sámara
Bar & Restaurante El Ancla in Sámara
Bar & Restaurante El Ancla in Sámara
Bar & Restaurante El Ancla in Sámara
Hotel Bahia Beach Front
Hotel Bahia Beach Front
a Canadian woman's paintings on the beach
a Canadian woman’s paintings on the beach
mussels at Hotel Bahia Beach Front
mussels at Hotel Bahia Beach Front
Playa Sámara
Playa Sámara
Mike at Playa Sámara
Mike at Playa Sámara
me at Playa Sámara
me at Playa Sámara
Playa Sámara
Playa Sámara
Sámara
Sámara
Kiwi salad bar in Sámara
Kiwi salad bar in Sámara
Sámara
Sámara
Playa Carrillo mirador
Playa Carrillo mirador
me at Hotel Bahia Beach Front
me at Hotel Bahia Beach Front
happy hour at Hotel Bahia Beach Front
happy hour at Hotel Bahia Beach Front
view from Hotel Bahia Beach Front
view from Hotel Bahia Beach Front
Playa Carrillo
Playa Carrillo
Nosara
Nosara
Nosara
Nosara
Nosara
Nosara
Nosara
Nosara
Restaurante La Luna in Nosara
Restaurante La Luna in Nosara
Restaurante La Luna in Nosara
Restaurante La Luna in Nosara
Playa Pelada & Agujero de Salpicaduras (Splash Hole)
Playa Pelada & Agujero de Salpicaduras (Splash Hole)
me at Playa Pelada & Agujero de Salpicaduras (Splash Hole)
me at Playa Pelada & Agujero de Salpicaduras (Splash Hole)
Mike at Playa Pelada & Agujero de Salpicaduras (Splash Hole)
Mike at Playa Pelada & Agujero de Salpicaduras (Splash Hole)
me at Hotel Bahia Beach Front
me at Hotel Bahia Beach Front
Mike at Hotel Bahia Beach Front
Mike at Hotel Bahia Beach Front
Playa Sámara
Playa Sámara
happy hour at Hotel Bahia Beach Front
happy hour at Hotel Bahia Beach Front
Playa Sámara
Playa Sámara
Hotel Bahia Beach Front
Hotel Bahia Beach Front
Ahora Sí!
Ahora Sí!
marimba at Café con Amor
marimba at Café con Amor
the "Freedom Torch" goes by Café con Amor
the “Freedom Torch” goes by Café con Amor
Mike at Tilatacos
Mike at Tilatacos
Tilatacos
Tilatacos
young people on stilts
young people on stilts
girl holding one of the faroles
girl holding one of the faroles
Carol, me and Mike at Restaurante Brisas del Lago
Carol, me and Mike at Restaurante Brisas del Lago
walk to Parque del Viento
walk to Parque del Viento
walk to Parque del Viento
walk to Parque del Viento
green lizard who lives under our walkway
green lizard who lives under our walkway
me at Hotel La Rana (frog) de Arenal Restaurante
me at Hotel La Rana (frog) de Arenal Restaurante
Mike at Hotel La Rana (frog) de Arenal Restaurante
Mike at Hotel La Rana (frog) de Arenal Restaurante
Hotel La Rana (frog) de Arenal Restaurante
Hotel La Rana (frog) de Arenal Restaurante
view from Hotel La Rana (frog) de Arenal Restaurante
view from Hotel La Rana (frog) de Arenal Restaurante
Summer Bingo Card
Summer Bingo Card
me at Paseo del Viento
me at Paseo del Viento
Mike at Paseo del Viento
Mike at Paseo del Viento
sunset from our house
sunset from our house
La Piedra del Indio Waterfalls
La Piedra del Indio Waterfalls
La Piedra del Indio Waterfalls
La Piedra del Indio Waterfalls
La Piedra del Indio Waterfalls
La Piedra del Indio Waterfalls
La Piedra del Indio Waterfalls
La Piedra del Indio Waterfalls
Cataratas Viento Fresco
Cataratas Viento Fresco
horseback ride back from La Piedra del Indio Waterfalls
horseback ride back from La Piedra del Indio Waterfalls
horseback ride back from La Piedra del Indio Waterfalls
horseback ride back from La Piedra del Indio Waterfalls
My Fall Bingo Card
My Fall Bingo Card
Bare-throated Tiger-Heron
Bare-throated Tiger-Heron
me at El Corral Restaurante BBQ
me at El Corral Restaurante BBQ
Mike at El Corral Restaurante BBQ
Mike at El Corral Restaurante BBQ
Bruce and Mike at La Pasadita
Bruce and Mike at La Pasadita
Cristy in Ometepe
Cristy in Ometepe
Adam and Mia in Ometepe
Adam and Mia in Ometepe
Little Mike in Ometepe
Little Mike in Ometepe
Mia and Andrea in Ometepe
Mia and Andrea in Ometepe
Andrea and Mikey in NIcaragua
Andrea and Mikey in NIcaragua
Allie practices her numbers
Allie practices her numbers
Allie & Jandira at a Flying Squirrels game in Richmond
Allie & Jandira at a Flying Squirrels game in Richmond
Allie, Alex and Jandira at a Flying Squirrels game in Richmond
Allie, Alex and Jandira at a Flying Squirrels game in Richmond
Jandira, Allie, Alex and Sarah at The Diamond in Richmond
Jandira, Allie, Alex and Sarah at The Diamond in Richmond
Sarah, Allie, Alex and Jandira at The Diamond
Sarah, Allie, Alex and Jandira at The Diamond
Allie at daycare
Allie at daycare
little Mike at El Pital
little Mike at El Pital
little Mike at El Pital
little Mike at El Pital

October was: A month in which we returned to the U.S. for two weeks to visit the family, celebrate Allie’s 2nd birthday, take care of doctor and dentist appointments, vote for Abigail Spanberger for governor of Virginia, and get our COVID vaccines and flu shots. A month in which we ate dinner out with the family at Bear Branch Tavern; went with the family, including Sarah, to the pumpkin patch at Temple Hill Farm and drank beers at Barnhouse Brewery; met our friends Karen and Michael at Lantern House Kitchen & Bar; watched Allie at her swim class; ate out on our own at Mazadar; strolled through Meadowlark Gardens with Allie and Alex; babysat Allie; and went to Old Farm Winery at Hartland. A month in which we returned to Costa Rica and enjoyed a cookout with Darrell and Farida at their home; went out to Soda El Nilo and Café & Macadamia; held signs and chanted “This is what democracy looks like!” at a NO KINGS protest with like-minded people in Nuevo Arenal; and ate lunch at Los Platillos Voladores (Flying Saucers) after the protest. A month in which I had my hair straightened and started a personal training regimen with Nela at Monster Gym. A month in which we celebrated my 70th birthday by: stopping at the Colibri Organic Chocolate Factory near Upala where we got a short tour by Giovanni and nibbled on PilHio chocolate bars; eating lunch at Bajo Mundo; enjoying a nice massage at Celeste Mountain Lodge where we stayed for the weekend; hiking in Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio along the Río Celeste; eating another lunch at Yeye’s Restaurante where the staff sang “Happy Birthday” to me; and enjoying two wonderful meals by the French chef at Celeste Mountain Lodge. A month in which we went to the Subasta Ganadera (Livestock Auction) Tilarán and watched the fast-speaking auctioneer as the cattle were chuted in and out of the holding pen. A month during which I checked off more activies on my Fall Bingo Card including finishing our 1,000-piece “Hummingbirds” puzzle, doing an open-water swim in the lake, having a “spa day & massage (3x)”, making two bean soups, and going to the Friday cattle auction while wearing a cowboy t-shirt. A month in which I finished 2 books, especially enjoying At Home in Mitford by Jan Karon; this brought my total to 38/48, putting me behind in my goal. A month during which we watched one mediocre movie: Limpia (Swim to Me). A month of starting the mini-series Adolescence and finishing Toxic Town and Long Bright River, which we loved, as well as If Only, Togetherness, and Diary of a Ditched Girl. A month in which we continued watching Younger, Seinfeld, Platonic, The Morning Show (S4), Angela, Unforgotten, The Diplomat, and Pernille. A month that ended with a long 1,178 days left in our right-wing fascist oligarchy.

  • the october cocktail hour: a trip to virginia, a NO KINGS protest, two birthday celebrations, & a cattle auction
flying out of Liberia, Costa Rica
flying out of Liberia, Costa Rica
Mike with Adam at the Miami Airport
Mike with Adam at the Miami Airport
on the way to Bear Branch Tavern
on the way to Bear Branch Tavern
Allie, Jandira and me at Bear Branch Tavern
Allie, Jandira and me at Bear Branch Tavern
Allie, Mike and me at Bear Branch Tavern
Allie, Mike and me at Bear Branch Tavern
MIke reading to Allie
MIke reading to Allie
Allie giving us the side-eye
Allie giving us the side-eye
Jandira, Allie and Alex at Temple Hill Farm
Jandira, Allie and Alex at Temple Hill Farm
me at Temple Hill Farm
me at Temple Hill Farm
Allie at Temple Hill Farm
Allie at Temple Hill Farm
me, Alex and Allie at Temple Hill Farm
me, Alex and Allie at Temple Hill Farm
Alex, Sarah, Jandira, Mike and Allie at Temple Hill Farm
Alex, Sarah, Jandira, Mike and Allie at Temple Hill Farm
me with Allie on her birthday
me with Allie on her birthday
a cake for Allie and me
a cake for Allie and me
two birthday girls: me and Allie
two birthday girls: me and Allie
Allie digs into her birthday cake
Allie digs into her birthday cake
Mike, Mike and Karen at Lantern House Kitchen and Bar
Mike, Mike and Karen at Lantern House Kitchen and Bar
Alex and Allie at Big Blue Swim School
Alex and Allie at Big Blue Swim School
Allie and Dido asleep in the family room
Allie and Dido asleep in the family room
Allie dons a fireman's hat
Allie dons a fireman’s hat
Allie plays in the laundry basket
Allie plays in the laundry basket
me on the way to Mazadar
me on the way to Mazadar
Mike at Mazadar
Mike at Mazadar
Allie and Alex on the butterfly bench at Meadowlark Botanical Gardens
Allie and Alex on the butterfly bench at Meadowlark Botanical Gardens
Allie matches the flowers
Allie matches the flowers
Alex & Allie in the Korean Garden at Meadowlark Botanical Gardens
Alex & Allie in the Korean Garden at Meadowlark Botanical Gardens
Alex, Allie and me at Meadowlark Botanical Gardens
Alex, Allie and me at Meadowlark Botanical Gardens
babysitting Allie
babysitting Allie
Jandira & Allie ata Old Farm Winery in Hartland
Jandira & Allie ata Old Farm Winery in Hartland
Alex, Allie, Jandira, Mike and me at Old Farm Winery in Hartland
Alex, Allie, Jandira, Mike and me at Old Farm Winery in Hartland
Jandira, Alex and Allie at Old Farm Winery in Hartland
Jandira, Alex and Allie at Old Farm Winery in Hartland
Alex and Allie at Old Farm Winery in Hartland
Alex and Allie at Old Farm Winery in Hartland
Flying into Miami on October 14 at 7 a.m.
Flying into Miami on October 14 at 7 a.m.
Landing in Miami
Landing in Miami
Flying out of Miami at 10:52 a.m.
Flying out of Miami at 10:52 a.m.
me at Soda El Nilo
me at Soda El Nilo
Mike at Soda El Nilo
Mike at Soda El Nilo
NO KINGS protest in Nuevo Arenal
NO KINGS protest in Nuevo Arenal
Farida, Carol, Darrell, Mike at Platillos Voladores ("Flying Saucers"), EatAlienFood
Farida, Carol, Darrell, Mike at Platillos Voladores (“Flying Saucers”), EatAlienFood
me with Carol outside of Platillos Voladores ("Flying Saucers"), EatAlienFood
me with Carol outside of Platillos Voladores (“Flying Saucers”), EatAlienFood
Mike and me outside of Platillos Voladores ("Flying Saucers"), EatAlienFood
Mike and me outside of Platillos Voladores (“Flying Saucers”), EatAlienFood
Mike on our balcony
Mike on our balcony
me on our balcony in Costa Rica
me on our balcony in Costa Rica
Mike at Soda Doña Chila
Mike at Soda Doña Chila
"Hummingbirds" puzzle - finished!
“Hummingbirds” puzzle – finished!
"Hummingbirds" puzzle - finished!
“Hummingbirds” puzzle – finished!
me after having my hair straightened
me after having my hair straightened
Mike with view of Volcán Tenorio
Mike with view of Volcán Tenorio
PilHio Organic Chocolate
PilHio Organic Chocolate
PilHio Organic Chocolate
PilHio Organic Chocolate
Mike at Bajo Mundo
Mike at Bajo Mundo
our room at Celeste Mountain Lodge
our room at Celeste Mountain Lodge
Celeste Mountain Lodge
Celeste Mountain Lodge
Celeste Mountain Lodge
Celeste Mountain Lodge
Celeste Mountain Lodge
Celeste Mountain Lodge
me at Celeste Mountain Lodge
me at Celeste Mountain Lodge
the blue dessert at Celeste Mountain Lodge
the blue dessert at Celeste Mountain Lodge
Celeste Mountain Lodge
Celeste Mountain Lodge
view from Celeste Mountain Lodge
view from Celeste Mountain Lodge
bird at Celeste Mountain Lodge
bird at Celeste Mountain Lodge
me with Mike at the Río Celeste Waterfall
me with Mike at the Río Celeste Waterfall
Río Celeste Waterfall
Río Celeste Waterfall
Bobollones in the Río Celeste at Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio
Bobollones in the Río Celeste at Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio
bridge over Río Celeste at Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio
bridge over Río Celeste at Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio
me at Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio
me at Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio
me with Mike on my birthday at Celeste Mountain Lodge
me with Mike on my birthday at Celeste Mountain Lodge
me blowing out my candle at Celeste Mountain Lodge
me blowing out my candle at Celeste Mountain Lodge
me with Nela at my assessment at Monster Gym
me with Nela at my assessment at Monster Gym
Café & Macadamia
Café & Macadamia
Mike at Café & Macadamia
Mike at Café & Macadamia
Pastel de Yucca, or Yucca (Cassava) Shepherd’s Pie stuffed with beef and tomato sauce
Pastel de Yucca, or Yucca (Cassava) Shepherd’s Pie stuffed with beef and tomato sauce
me at Café & Macadamia
me at Café & Macadamia
view of Lago Arenal from Café & Macadamia
view of Lago Arenal from Café & Macadamia
chorizo, garbanzo beans and spinach soup
chorizo, garbanzo beans and spinach soup
black bean soup
black bean soup
me at the Friday Cattle Auction
me at the Friday Cattle Auction
Mike at the Friday Cattle Auction
Mike at the Friday Cattle Auction
Friday Cattle Auction
Friday Cattle Auction
Friday Cattle Auction
Friday Cattle Auction
Friday Cattle Auction
Friday Cattle Auction
Friday Cattle Auction
Friday Cattle Auction
lunch at the Friday Cattle Auction
lunch at the Friday Cattle Auction
Friday Cattle Auction
Friday Cattle Auction
Friday Cattle Auction
Friday Cattle Auction
Friday Cattle Auction
Friday Cattle Auction
The girls from Ometepe at the gymnastics competition in Managua
The girls from Ometepe at the gymnastics competition in Managua
Andrea wins gold in the gymnastics competition
Andrea wins gold in the gymnastics competition
Mia wins silver in gymnastics
Mia wins silver in gymnastics
Mia lets Mikey wear her silver medals
Mia lets Mikey wear her silver medals
Mikey in Nicaragua
Mikey in Nicaragua
little Mikey in Ometepe
little Mikey in Ometepe
Cristy and friend with goats
Cristy and friend with goats
Jandira and Allie at Flying Ace Distillery
Jandira and Allie at Flying Ace Distillery
Alex and Jandira at Flying Ace Distillery
Alex and Jandira at Flying Ace Distillery
Allie and Jandira at Meadowlark Botanical Gardens
Allie and Jandira at Meadowlark Botanical Gardens
Allie, Jandira and Alex at Meadowlark Botanical Gardens
Allie, Jandira and Alex at Meadowlark Botanical Gardens
Allie plays with a toy I gave her for her birthday
Allie plays with a toy I gave her for her birthday
Allie as Bingo from Bluey for Halloween
Allie as Bingo from Bluey for Halloween
Fall Bingo Card as of 10/31
Fall Bingo Card as of 10/31

November was: A month during which Mike arranged a belated birthday/Halloween get-together at Paseo del Viento with friends. A month during which Democrats won seats in elections all across the U.S., especially in Virginia where we now have a Democratic governor, Abigail Spanberger, and a trifecta of Democrats in the state government. A month of a Ukranian pedicure in green just after the Beaver moon. A month of sunset-watching with Carol and then dinner after at Cielo’s Pizza, and another dinner with our long-lost friends Anne and Jack, who we hadn’t seen since August, at Chafi’s. A month during which we visited Panama City and Bocas del Toro on our first-ever trip to Panama (country #41 for me). A month of visiting Casco Viejo, staying in El Cangrejo, and learning about and seeing the Panama Canal in Panama City. A month of zipping around on an ebike to wade among starfish at Playa Estrella, taking water taxis to islands, and kayaking and snorkeling in Saigon Bay at Bocas del Toro. A month in which travel back to Costa Rica from Panama was rife with challenges and delays. A month of another dinner with Darrell and Farida at a new unnamed restaurant in Tronadora, during which they told us they were selling their home in Costa Rica and moving to Kenya, Farida’s home of origin. A month which marked the end of our first six months in Costa Rica, with 6 more months remaining. A month during which I checked off more activities on my Fall Bingo Card including visiting places in Panama, making a navy bean soup, visiting San Ramon and Atenas, celebrating Thanksgiving with friends, and moving into Lake Arenal Condos for our last six months in Costa Rica. A month in which I finished 6 books, especially enjoying The No. 1 Ladies’ Detective Agency by Alexander McCall Smith, Memento Park by Mark Sarvas, and 1968: The Year that Rocked the World by Mark Kurlansky, in which I found many similarities to the U.S. political environment right now; this brought my total to 44/48. A month during which we watched one movie: Mango, which took place in beautiful southern Spain. A month of starting The Beast in Me, The Asset, and A Man on the Inside, and finishing Adolescence, the 5th season of Pernille, and Angela. A month in which we continued watching Younger, Seinfeld, Platonic, The Morning Show (S4), Unforgotten, and The Diplomat. A month that ended with a long 1,148 days left in our right-wing fascist oligarchy.

  • the november cocktail hour: a trip to panama, a costa rican thanksgiving & a move to lake arenal condos
view from Carol's house
view from Carol’s house
Carol, Mike and me at Subterra
Carol, Mike and me at Subterra
Subterra decked out for Halloween
Subterra decked out for Halloween
Bruce and Mike at Mary's
Bruce and Mike at Mary’s
me with Veronica at Tomodent
me with Veronica at Tomodent
me at Monster Gym after a workout with Nela
me at Monster Gym after a workout with Nela
Mike and me at Restaurante Cielo's Pizza
Mike and me at Restaurante Cielo’s Pizza
Anne & Jack at Chafi's
Anne & Jack at Chafi’s
Mike and me at Chafi's
Mike and me at Chafi’s
views from our El Cangrejo apartment
views from our El Cangrejo apartment
Cabeza de Einstein
Cabeza de Einstein
Pho Vietnam
Pho Vietnam
me in Casco Viejo
me in Casco Viejo
Kuna women selling molas on Paseo Esteban Huertas, or Esteban Huertas Promenade
Kuna women selling molas on Paseo Esteban Huertas, or Esteban Huertas Promenade
Mike on Cacao St.
Mike on Cacao St.
Altar de Oro at Iglesia de San José
Altar de Oro at Iglesia de San José
diorama in Iglesia de San José
diorama in Iglesia de San José
Panama Canal Museum
Panama Canal Museum
Panama Canal Museum
Panama Canal Museum
Migration Exhibit at Panama Canal Museum
Migration Exhibit at Panama Canal Museum
Panama Canal Museum
Panama Canal Museum
pool at our PH Sky Swiss condominium
pool at our PH Sky Swiss condominium
me at Pedro Mandinga Rum Bar
me at Pedro Mandinga Rum Bar
Mike with his flight at Pedro Mandinga Rum Bar
Mike with his flight at Pedro Mandinga Rum Bar
me at the PANAMA sign
me at the PANAMA sign
Mike at the BioMuseo
Mike at the BioMuseo
BioMuseo
BioMuseo
Mercado de Mariscos
Mercado de Mariscos
Mercado de Mariscos
Mercado de Mariscos
Mike at the Mercado de Mariscos
Mike at the Mercado de Mariscos
Mike at La Rana Dorada
Mike at La Rana Dorada
Miraflores Visitor Center
Miraflores Visitor Center
Container ship now raised in the water and leaving the Panama Canal, pushed and pulled by powerful locomotives
Container ship now raised in the water and leaving the Panama Canal, pushed and pulled by powerful locomotives
cruise ship coming into the Panama Canal
cruise ship coming into the Panama Canal
Panama Canal Murals
Panama Canal Murals
“Musa” at MAC Panamá
“Musa” at MAC Panamá
“Musa” at MAC Panamá
“Musa” at MAC Panamá
Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Panamá, or MAC Panamá
Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Panamá, or MAC Panamá
Mike and Danny, Tae's father, at Peach Fuzz
Mike and Danny, Tae’s father, at Peach Fuzz
me at Marques for our anniversary
me at Marques for our anniversary
Mike at Marques on our anniversary
Mike at Marques on our anniversary
me with the puzzle
me with the puzzle
Purple House Over the Water
Purple House Over the Water
El Ultima Refugio
El Ultima Refugio
me with my ebike
me with my ebike
map of Bocas del Toro
map of Bocas del Toro
Mike drinks coconut water on the water taxi to Playa Estrella
Mike drinks coconut water on the water taxi to Playa Estrella
starfish at Playa Estrella
starfish at Playa Estrella
Playa Estrella
Playa Estrella
me at Over the Water
me at Over the Water
on the dock to the Buccaneer Hotel
on the dock to the Buccaneer Hotel
me at Bibi's on the Beach
me at Bibi’s on the Beach
walk on Red Frog Beach
walk on Red Frog Beach
Mike with driftwood at Red Frog Beach
Mike with driftwood at Red Frog Beach
me with my wound
me with my wound
relaxing at our Orange House
relaxing at our Orange House
Orange House
Orange House
sunset at our Orange House
sunset at our Orange House
view from our Orange House
view from our Orange House
me kayaking
me kayaking
Mike & me after snorkeling
Mike & me after snorkeling
kayaking on Saigon Bay
kayaking on Saigon Bay
flying into Costa Rica
flying into Costa Rica
Dragon roll with shrimp tempura & Spicy tuna roll
Dragon roll with shrimp tempura & Spicy tuna roll
me at El Corral
me at El Corral
Veggie-packed navy bean soup
Veggie-packed navy bean soup
our house for 10 more days
our house for 10 more days
gorgeous sunset in Costa Rica
gorgeous sunset in Costa Rica
Lake Arenal Brewery
Lake Arenal Brewery
Mike, me, Anne and Jack
Mike, me, Anne and Jack
me with Mike
me with Mike
Farida, Eden, the chef and me at Eden's new cafe
Farida, Eden, the chef and me at Eden’s new cafe
living area of new condo
living area of new condo
Guanacaste tree coffee table
Guanacaste tree coffee table
kitchen
kitchen
master bedroom - home
master bedroom – home
view out the window from inside the living room
view out the window from inside the living room
view of Volcán Arenal from our condo
view of Volcán Arenal from our condo
sunset from our condo
sunset from our condo
ant infestation in Master bed frame
ant infestation in Master bed frame
move from Puerto San Luis west to Lake Arenal Condos
move from Puerto San Luis west to Lake Arenal Condos
Municipal Auditorium
Municipal Auditorium
Concierto de "Ensamble Atrespam"
Concierto de “Ensamble Atrespam”
Christmas lights in Tilarán
Christmas lights in Tilarán
Christmas lights in Tilarán
Christmas lights in Tilarán
me at Paseo del Viento
me at Paseo del Viento
Fall Bingo Card
Fall Bingo Card
Mikey with the cows
Mikey with the cows
Allie at an Airbnb near Elkton, VA
Allie at an Airbnb near Elkton, VA
the family hiking near Elkton, VA
the family hiking near Elkton, VA
Alex and Allie "playing chess"
Alex and Allie “playing chess”
Little Mike trying to be a gymnast like his sisters
Little Mike trying to be a gymnast like his sisters

December was: A month of carpal tunnel surgery on Mike’s right hand with Dr. Andrés Ugalde in Liberia; during his recovery time of 4-6 weeks, he had to refrain from using his right hand, so it fell to me to take over the driving, the cooking, the cleaning, and even tying his shoes. A month of beautiful views of the Cold Moon, Volcán Arenal, Lago Arenal, rainbows, and coral-hued cloud formations from the balcony of our new condo. A month of buying a fake Christmas tree to take to Ometepe in January. A month of a bronze-flecked pedicure and completion of our “Skull Whispers” puzzle. A month of eating at Eden’s new unnamed café in Tronadora for a “soft opening’ and then later for the grand opening as “Lava Lake Café.”  A month of dinner and Christmas music by Andru & Anapau at Paseo del Viento with our friends Anne and Jack. A month of having lunch one day at Marisqueria Lago Arenal and meeting some adventurous tourists. A month welcoming our first guests: Anne and Jack for take-out pizza and Darrell & Farida for drinks and snacks before going up to Brisas de Tilawa. A month of a road trip to Costa Rica’s Central Highlands with a stop in La Fortuna, where we had massages, soaked in our room’s hot tub, ate Indian food at Sunny’s, shopped for Christmas gifts for each other, and fought an invasion of ants in our hotel, Yellow Tree Suites. A month of visiting three towns: 1) Zarcero with its whimsical topiary art and beautiful church, Iglesia de San Rafael; 2) Costa Rica’s artisan capital Sarchí which displays the world’s largest oxcart and is home to a cool oxcart factory, Taller Eloy Alfaro e Hijos; 3) Grecia, with its merlot-red church built entirely out of metal, Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Mercedes. A month of staying at La Terraza Guest House B&B, which sat on tropical grounds and had cottages in brightly colored murals. A month of visiting other places in the Central Highlands: Parque Nacional Volcán Poas with timed tickets to view the caldera (we didn’t see a thing because of steam and gas from the volcano); the animal sanctuary and waterfalls at La Paz Waterfall Gardens Nature Park where we saw toucans, peacocks, Scarlett Macaws, pink-footed ducks, parrots, butterflies, an ocelot, a mountain lion, a jaguar and a grey fox; waterfalls around Bajos del Toro, a tiny village in a cloud forest west of Volcán Poas, including Catarata del Toro and The Blue Falls. A month of working out at Monster Gym, walking around the town of Tilarán and on a ridge up near Tisú Farm where we were knocked off balance numerous times by blustery winds, and walking on the ridge above our condos around the small town of Parcelas. A month of a Christmas Eve dinner at Gingerbread, WhatsApp conversations with the family, and wine & cheese with Anne & Jack on Christmas day. A month of ceviche at Cevichera La Pasadita to see their Christmas decorations, having a home-cooked international meal with Anne & Jack at their home, and listening to Christmas music by Andru & Ana Paula at Moya’s Place. A month ending with a New Year’s Eve dinner at Chafi’s and falling asleep before midnight. A month of finishing 4 books in December, bringing my total to 48/48, especially enjoying Rules of the Wild: A Novel of Africa by Francesca Marciano. A month of being enlightened by books such as The Girl in Grey (by Annette Lyon) about the 1939 Winter War between Russia and Finland and Madness Visible: A Memoir of War (by Janine Di Giovanni) about the war in the Balkans which has got to be one of the most confusing and brutal wars in modern times. A month of watching four movies: Champagne Problems (France), A Merry Little EX-MAS — both of which were a bit hokey — as well as the 1945 Christmas in Connecticut and My Secret Santa. A month of starting a couple of new series: Home for Christmas (Hjem til jul) (S3), Grantchester (S3), and Untamed (Yosemite); finishing watching The Morning Show (S4), The Diplomat (S3), Nobody Wants This (S2), The Asset (Legenden) (S1), and Unforgotten (S6); and continuing to watch Younger, Seinfeld, Platonic, The Beast in Me, and A Man on the Inside. A month that ended with a long 1,117 days left in our right-wing fascist oligarchy.

Mike after his carpal tunnel surgery
Mike after his carpal tunnel surgery
Mike after his carpal tunnel surgery
Mike after his carpal tunnel surgery
Lake Arenal Condos
Lake Arenal Condos
Cold Moon
Cold Moon
view from our condo
view from our condo
view of Volcán Arenal from our condo
view of Volcán Arenal from our condo
Mike, Jack and Anne at Paseo del Viente
Mike, Jack and Anne at Paseo del Viente
Jack, me and Anne at Paseo del Viento
Jack, me and Anne at Paseo del Viento
Andru and Anapau singing
Andru and Anapau singing
view of Volcán Arenal from our condo
view of Volcán Arenal from our condo
me at Marisqueria Lago Arenal
me at Marisqueria Lago Arenal
rainbow views from our condo
rainbow views from our condo
Jack, me and Anne after pizza at our condo
Jack, me and Anne after pizza at our condo
Dr. Ugalde, Mike and Stephanie when he got his stitches out
Dr. Ugalde, Mike and Stephanie when he got his stitches out
Farida and me at Brisas de Tilawa
Farida and me at Brisas de Tilawa
me in La Fortuna
me in La Fortuna
Mike after our massages at Serenity Spa in La Fortuna
Mike after our massages at Serenity Spa in La Fortuna
Mike at Sunny's
Mike at Sunny’s
Iglesia de San Rafael in Zarcero
Iglesia de San Rafael in Zarcero
topiary art in Zarcero's Parque Francisco Alvarado
topiary art in Zarcero’s Parque Francisco Alvarado
topiary art in Zarcero's Parque Francisco Alvarado
topiary art in Zarcero’s Parque Francisco Alvarado
topiary art in Zarcero's Parque Francisco Alvarado
topiary art in Zarcero’s Parque Francisco Alvarado
topiary art in Zarcero's Parque Francisco Alvarado with Iglesia de San Rafael behind
topiary art in Zarcero’s Parque Francisco Alvarado with Iglesia de San Rafael behind
largest oxcart in the world in Sarchí
largest oxcart in the world in Sarchí
Taller Eloy Alfaro e Hijos
Taller Eloy Alfaro e Hijos
Taller Eloy Alfaro e Hijos
Taller Eloy Alfaro e Hijos
me at Taller Eloy Alfaro e Hijos
me at Taller Eloy Alfaro e Hijos
Taller Eloy Alfaro e Hijos
Taller Eloy Alfaro e Hijos
La Terraza Guest House B&B
La Terraza Guest House B&B
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Mike having breakfast at La Terraza Guest House B&B
Mike having breakfast at La Terraza Guest House B&B
Parque Nacional Volcán Poás
Parque Nacional Volcán Poás
me at Parque Nacional Volcán Poás
me at Parque Nacional Volcán Poás
toucan at La Paz Waterfall Gardens Nature Park
toucan at La Paz Waterfall Gardens Nature Park
butterfly at La Paz Waterfall Gardens Nature Park
butterfly at La Paz Waterfall Gardens Nature Park
white-face capuchin monkey at La Paz Waterfall Gardens Nature Park
white-face capuchin monkey at La Paz Waterfall Gardens Nature Park
Ocelot at La Paz Waterfall Gardens Nature Park
Ocelot at La Paz Waterfall Gardens Nature Park
me, Mike and oxcart at butterflies at La Paz Waterfall Gardens Nature Park
me, Mike and oxcart at butterflies at La Paz Waterfall Gardens Nature Park
Mike at Templo Waterfall at butterflies at La Paz Waterfall Gardens Nature Park
Mike at Templo Waterfall at butterflies at La Paz Waterfall Gardens Nature Park
Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Mercedes in Grecia
Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Mercedes in Grecia
Catarata del Toro
Catarata del Toro
me at Catarata del Toro
me at Catarata del Toro
Blue Falls: Mike in Poza Azul
Blue Falls: Mike in Poza Azul
Cataratas Las Gemelas at the Blue Falls
Cataratas Las Gemelas at the Blue Falls
me at Cataratas Las Gemelas
me at Cataratas Las Gemelas
Mike on the bridge on our way back from the Blue Falls
Mike on the bridge on our way back from the Blue Falls
Bajos del Toro
Bajos del Toro
Lesson's Motmot
Lesson’s Motmot
Mike at Lava Lake Café
Mike at Lava Lake Café
dairy cows near Tisú Farm
dairy cows near Tisú Farm
a huge rainbow
a huge rainbow
Gingerbread on Christmas Eve
Gingerbread on Christmas Eve
Gingerbread on Christmas Eve
Gingerbread on Christmas Eve
Gingerbread on Christmas Eve
Gingerbread on Christmas Eve
Gingerbread on Christmas Eve
Gingerbread on Christmas Eve
Christmas morning
Christmas morning
Christmas morning
Christmas morning
Christmas morning
Christmas morning
Christmas day with Anne & Jack
Christmas day with Anne & Jack
our car looks spanking new!
our car looks spanking new!
me at Cevichera la Pasadita
me at Cevichera la Pasadita
Mike at Cevichera la Pasadita
Mike at Cevichera la Pasadita
me in our house on our way to Anne & Jack's
me in our house on our way to Anne & Jack’s
Anne's delicious international meal
Anne’s delicious international meal
Moya's Place
Moya’s Place
Moya's Place
Moya’s Place
Mike at Moya's Place
Mike at Moya’s Place
Ana Paula, me, Mike and Andru at Moya's Place
Ana Paula, me, Mike and Andru at Moya’s Place
the view out Sarah's Richmond apartment
the view out Sarah’s Richmond apartment
Allie has her first dentist appointment
Allie has her first dentist appointment
Chef Allie makes pizzas at daycare
Chef Allie makes pizzas at daycare
Chef Allie makes pizzas at daycare
Chef Allie makes pizzas at daycare
Allie tries on bike helmets at Target
Allie tries on bike helmets at Target
Allie watches a Christmas scene with her nose to the screen
Allie watches a Christmas scene with her nose to the screen
Alex, Allie & Jandira on Christmas morning
Alex, Allie & Jandira on Christmas morning
Jandira, Allie and Alex on Christmas morning
Jandira, Allie and Alex on Christmas morning
Cristy at a photo op
Cristy at a photo op
Cristy at a photo op
Cristy at a photo op
Andrea celebrated her 12th birthday
Andrea celebrated her 12th birthday
Mía celebrated her 9th birthday
Mía celebrated her 9th birthday
Cristy got her hair done!
Cristy got her hair done!
little Mike rides a bike
little Mike rides a bike
Miá at a new restaurant in Balgue
Miá at a new restaurant in Balgue
Andrea, Mía & Cristy
Andrea, Mía & Cristy
Andrea & Mike
Andrea & Mike
Mía with a man representing the old year
Mía with a man representing the old year
me with Mike at Chafi's on New Year's Eve
me with Mike at Chafi’s on New Year’s Eve
Award for the owner's prize-winning racehorses
Award for the owner’s prize-winning racehorses

Here are some of my previous years’ recap posts. I now wish I had one for every year of my life, as they serve as great reminders of my adventures, joys, challenges, and tribulations in years past!

  • twenty twenty-four: family & friends in central america & colombia, a new grandson, return to japan (x3) & excursions to bali & atlanta
  • twenty twenty-three: growing our family, travels from central america to italy, & a texas-new mexico road trip
  • twenty twenty-two: a year of north-south travel, a tragic war in ukraine, & final passings
  • twenty twenty-one: from insurrection to omicron, with a great lakes road trip and jaunt to croatia
  • twenty-twenty: baltimore, the year of coronavirus, chicago, & a canyon & cactus road trip
  • twenty-nineteen: morocco, central italy, a road trip to nowhere, & charleston
  • twenty-eighteen: the four corners, niagara falls, & the camino de santiago
  • twenty-seventeen: a semester teaching english in japan & trips to budapest, vienna, prague, český krumlov, and nashville
  • twenty-sixteen: a wedding in oklahoma city, visit to dallas, a major home renovation, iceland’s ring road, west virginia & philadelphia
  • twenty-fifteen: around & about china, myanmar, & california
  • twenty-fourteen: california, losing shirley & bailey, puerto rico, & off to china
  • twenty-thirteen: leaving oman, spain {barcelona, toledo, south of spain}, portugal {tavira, evora, lisbon} & a semester off
  • weekly photo challenge: my 2012 in pictures {working in oman, home to virginia, a trip to greece {athens, meteora, crete & santorini} & ethiopia

Here’s wishing everyone a Happy New Year in 2026! 🙂

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the december cocktail hour: mike’s surgery, a central highlands road trip & christmas in costa rica

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 December 31, 2025

December 31, 2025: Welcome to our December cocktail hour. Let’s have some rum and goat milk egg nog. We can enjoy breezes and sunset views, and maybe we’ll be lucky enough to see rainbows or a Cold Moon. You can even come along vicariously on our trip to Costa Rica’s Central Highlands, and celebrate a belated Christmas and New Year’s Eve with us. Sunset is is now at around 5:30 every night and if it’s not raining, we can enjoy some magnificent painterly skies at sunset.

I have a variety of soda, seltzer water, or bebida de aloe for those of you who don’t drink. Mike can also whip up some excellent smoothies. Thanks for joining us in our escape into a peaceful corner of the world.

December marked our seventh month in Guanacaste, Costa Rica. It was more laid back than our usual month since Mike had his carpal tunnel surgery on the 2nd, and we were limited as to what we could do. However, we did manage to carve out a 5-day road trip to the Central Highlands of Costa Rica. We made the most of our one and only Christmas in Costa Rica.

Homebody stuff

On Tuesday, December 2, we drove to Liberia where Mike had carpal tunnel surgery on his right hand with Dr. Andrés Ugalde Cordero at Orthocell. During his recovery time of 4-6 weeks, he had to refrain from using his right hand, so it fell to me to take over the driving, the cooking, the cleaning, and even tying his shoes. He got the stitches removed on Thursday, the 11th, but he still had strict orders from the doctor to refrain from using his hand for most tasks including cleaning dishes “until next year!”

We enjoyed beautiful views of the Cold Moon on Thursday, December 4, as well as many magnificent views from our new condo. We bought ourselves a small fake Christmas tree on the 12th, which we plan to take to Ometepe when we go visit in January.

I had a pedicure on the 13th and we finished our “Skull Whispers” puzzle on that same day.

We got our car washed for only the second time since we bought it at Lavacar Vargas; it now looks spanking new!

I finished 4 books in December, bringing my total to 48/48. I especially enjoyed Rules of the Wild: A Novel of Africa by Francesca Marciano. I found enlightening the books The Girl in Grey (by Annette Lyon) about the 1939 Winter War between Russia and Finland and Madness Visible: A Memoir of War (by Janine Di Giovanni) about the war in the Balkans which has got to be one of the most confusing and brutal wars in modern times. We watched two movies: Champagne Problems (France) and A Merry Little EX-MAS, both of which were a bit hokey. We also watched the 1945 movie Christmas in Connecticut. We started watching a couple of new series or new seasons of old series: Home for Christmas (Hjem til jul) (S3), Emily in Paris (S5), The Manny (S3), Grantchester (S3), and Untamed (Yosemite). We finished watching The Morning Show (S4), Unforgotten (S6), Nobody Wants This (S2), The Diplomat (S3), and The Asset (Legenden) . We continued watching Younger, Seinfeld, Platonic, The Beast in Me, and A Man on the Inside.

Dining out

We went out to lunch at Eden’s new unnamed restaurant in Tronadora for its “soft opening” on the 3rd where we met a table full of Americans and Canadians who I didn’t know, other than Bev who we’d met there before and Darrell and Kirk from the gym. We went there again on the 20th for its grand opening – now under the name “Lava Lake Café.” On Saturday night the 6th, we went with Anne and Jack to Paseo del Viento where it was crowded with families and children. At 7:00, two singers performed Christmas music in what was billed as “Gran Velada Navideña” (Grand Christmas Evening) with Andru & Anapau y “coro voces venti” (twenty choir voices). We ate lunch one day at Marisqueria Lago Arenal, where we met some tourists on their way to La Fortuna. We got take-out pizza from Cafetería y Pizzeria Guadalupe near Rio Piedras and had Anne & Jack over to see our new condo. Darrell & Farida came up for a visit and then Darrell drove us all up the hill from the condos to Brisas de Tilawa, a cute restaurant with mediocre food.

Exploring Costa Rica’s Central Highlands north of San José

We took a road trip on Monday the 15th to Costa Rica’s Central Highlands northwest of Alajuela. First we stopped in La Fortuna where we enjoyed massages at Serenity Spa, soaked in the hot tub in our room (since it was raining and we couldn’t go to Baldi Hot Springs as planned) and ate dinner at Sunny’s Indian Restaurant. We did some Christmas shopping for each other and came back to our room at Yellow Tree Suites to find an invasion of ants. We won’t be staying there again!

The next morning we drove to three small towns: Zarcero, Sarchí, and Grecia. Each town offered something different.

Zarcero displayed whimsical topiary art in its Parque Francisco Alvarado and is known for its progressive organic farming practices. It also has a beautiful church, Iglesia de San Rafael.

Sarchí is the artisan capital of Costa Rica and displays thousands of models of brightly colored model oxcarts – including the world’s largest oxcart. We admired the oxcart in the town square, ate a healthy lunch at Enrrolato, and then visited the cool oxcart factory: Taller Eloy Alfaro e Hijos.

We drove on to Grecia, where we went straight to La Terraza Guest House B&B, which sat on tropical grounds and had cottages covered in brightly colored murals. We ordered take out from Andaluz through Uber Eats.

On the 17th, we visited Parque Nacional Volcán Poás with timed tickets to view the caldera. The volcano has erupted as recently as 2017. Visitors have a maximum of 20 minutes to view the principal crater and its Tiffany -blue pool in the center. We didn’t see a thing because of steam and gas from the volcano.

We then drove to La Paz Waterfall Gardens Nature Park, which has an animal sanctuary and a series of waterfalls. Before exploring, we ate a lunch of an empañada trio and a chicharrón bowl at the on-site Tortillas Restaurant. Our first stop was the bird aviary where we saw toucans, peacocks, Scarlett Macaws, pink-footed ducks and parrots. We also saw butterflies, an ocelot, a mountain lion, and jaguar and a grey fox. We enjoyed the series of waterfalls along a well-maintained paved walkway.

Later that afternoon, we strolled around Grecia, where we found a park decked out for the holidays and a merlot-red church built entirely out of metal, Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Mercedes, which adorns the town. We walked through the city market and had an early tapas dinner at Andaluz.

Our final day, we drove an hour to Bajos del Toro, a tiny village in a cloud forest west of Volcán Poas. From there, we explored two waterfalls: Catarata del Toro and The Blue Falls. Though the Blue Falls has 6 waterfalls altogether, we only visited Poza Azul (the blue pool) and Cataratas Las Gemelas (the twins). This was a fabulous day!

On Friday the 19th, we drove 3 1/4 hours on another route home (the unscenic route) skirting the west side of San José and coming up on Route 1 back to Cañas and on to Tilarán. I let Mike drive the last third of the way.

Drives, walks and local explorations

The weather here has been windy, rainy and rather chilly, so we haven’t been on many walks. On Saturday the 14th, we walked around the town of Tilarán and saw neighborhoods we’d never seen before. On Tuesday, the 23rd, we walked up on a ridge near Tisú Farm where it was so blustery that we were knocked off balance numerous times. It was a gorgeous walk with amazing views. We walked another day on the ridge near Parcelas above the condos.

Our holiday celebrations: Christmas & New Year’s Eve

To celebrate Christmas Eve in Costa Rica, we went out to eat dinner at Gingerbread. We exchanged a few gifts on Christmas morning, talked to all the family by WhatsApp, and then had our friends Anne & Jack come over for wine & cheese & crackers. We enjoyed ceviche and Christmas decorations at Cevichera La Pasadita on Friday after Christmas, and then went to Anne and Jack’s for a home-cooked international meal on Saturday. On Sunday, we went to Moya’s Place in Nuevo Arenal to eat and listen to Christmas songs in “especial de navidad” with singers Andru y Ana Paula.

On New Year’s Eve, we went to Chafi’s for an early dinner. We’re not ones to stay out late on New Year’s Eve, but it was fun to be in a local Costa Rican restaurant.

Finishing up the Fall Bingo Card and creating the Winter Bingo Card

This month, I completed more things on my Fall Bingo Card, including the following:

  • Got a bronze-flecked pedicure
  • Finished our “Skull Whispers” puzzle
  • Made a lentil soup (the last of my bean soups)
  • Created my Fall playlist on Spotify: Fall in Costa Rica & Panama 2025
  • Drives: Zarcero (topiaries), Sarchí (oxcarts) & Grecia (red metal church)
  • Stay in a cabin (cottage) in the mountains (La Terraza Guest House B&B)
  • Spa Day & Massage (at Serenity Spa in La Fortuna)
  • Stay in a cabin (cottage) in the mountains
  • Volcán Poás, Catarata del Toro, Cataratas Las Gemelas
  • Plan next year’s goals & get 2026 calendar and complete 2026 bullet journal
  • Finished The Girl in Grey by Annette Lyon

As of December 20, the end of fall, I achieved 5 Bingos, and read 11 out of 13 books I had hoped to read. I never wrote 3 fall poems, never visited a botanical garden in Bocas Town in Panama, and never hosted a wine & cheese evening. I also never managed to take a boat ride on the Tucan Arenal and never made any squash or root vegetable recipes.

my Fall BINGO Card

As of December 21, with the beginning of winter, I created a Winter Bingo Card, shown below. Some of the items revolve around our upcoming January visit to the family in Nicaragua, my daughter’s visit in February and our trip to Guatemala & Belize in the first two weeks of March.

On my Winter BINGO card, I did a couple of things:

  • Started a new journal for our last 6 months in Costa Rica
  • Made 1 of 3 hot soups: white chicken chili
  • Watched two more Christmas movies: Christmas in Connecticut from 1945 and My Secret Santa. We continued watching season 3 of Home for Christmas (Hjem til jul)
  • Celebrated Christmas Eve and Christmas Day
  • Finished three books: Rules of the Wild: A Novel of Africa by Francesca Marciano, Getting a Life: Stories by Helen Simpson, and Madness Visible: A Memoir of War by Janine di Giovanni.
My Winter BINGO card

Birds, flora & other Costa Rican wildlife

We saw a band of coatis on the road to La Fortuna, as well as a lot of animals at the sanctuary at La Paz Waterfall Gardens; however, those were all in captivity. We did encounter a new bird at La Terraza Guesthouse B&B, a Lesson’s Motmot.

Family Happenings

Andrea celebrated her 12th birthday on the 12th in Nicaragua and Mía turned 9 on the 18th. Allie had a fun time in day care making pizzas, helping her parents decorate the tree, and watching the Christmas scene on TV with her nose to the screen. All the grandchildren seemed to have a happy Christmas.

On my Costa Rica blog, you can find my weekly recaps of our lives in Costa Rica for the month of December:

  • settling into our new home in lake arenal condos & mike’s carpal tunnel surgery {week 27/52}
  • removal of mike’s stitches in liberia, double workouts & our first guests {week 28/52}
  • a costa rican road trip: three towns, volcán poás & waterfalls galore (& wrapping up the fall & starting the winter BINGO cards) {week 29/52}
  • christmas in costa rica {week 30/52}
*********

I hope you’ll share how the year is panning out for you, and what plans you have for the winter and the upcoming new year.

How did your December go? Did you have any special family gatherings? Have you welcomed any new additions to your family?  Did you celebrate any birthdays or anniversaries? Have you read any good books that can inform your worldview, seen any good movies, binge-watched any television series? Have you planned any adventures or had any winter or holiday getaways? Have you dreamed any dreams? Have you gone to any exotic restaurants, cooked any new dishes? Have you been surprised by anything in life? Have you marked off activities on your Fall Bingo card? Have you created a Winter Bingo Card? Have you made any new friends? Have you learned anything new, taken any classes or just kept up with the news? Have you sung along with any new songs? Have you undertaken any new exercise routines? Have you marched or otherwise participated in political protests? Have you been battered, or alternately, uplifted by any news?

Please share your December with me by giving me the plot below, or a link to a post in your blog that tells about your month.

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top ten books of 2025

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 December 28, 2025

I choose many of my books for the year either based on my planned travels for the year, or from my huge book collection. On this year’s list, I picked books that took place in Mexico, Costa Rica and Panama, among other places. I read 48 books in total, with 6 taking place in Mexico, 1 in Costa Rica, 2 in Panama; I also read books set in the Norden countries of Finland (3), Sweden (2) and Norway (3) in preparation for our 2026 travels. In all, I read some 13,985 pages. The average length of books I read was 291 pages. I also read 7 short story collections.

I tried to incorporate more nonfiction and historical fiction into my reading this year to expand my knowledge and open my horizons. I learned a lot about the year 1968 (1968: The Year That Rocked the World by Mark Kurlansky); the beginning of the Nazi invasion of Norway in WWII (The Last Light Over Oslo by Alix Rickloff); the Finnish Winter War of 1939-1940 (The Girl in Grey by Annette Lyon);  Indian boarding schools and The Great Depression (This Tender Land by William Kent Kruger); Mexican and U.S. history including Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera and Leon Trotsky, as well as the McCarthy years (The Lacuna by Barbara Kingsolver & In the Casa Azul: A Novel of Revolution and Betrayal by Meaghan Delahunt); the building of the Panama Canal (The Great Divide by Cristina Henríquez); South and Central America in 1979 (The Old Patagonian Express: By Train Through the Americas by Paul Theroux); Italy during WWII (A Harvest of Secrets by Roland Merullo); the war in the Balkans (Madness Visible: A Memoir of War by Janine Di Giovanni and Speak, Silence by Kim Echlin), and varied accounts of the immigrant experience (American Dirt by Jeanine Cummins, Behold the Dreamers by Imbolo Mbue, North of Dawn by Nuruddin Farah, & What We Owe by Golnaz Hashemzadeh Bonde).

My 2025 bookshelves from my bullet journal

Here, you can see my 2025 Year in Books. Below are my 10 favorites + two bonus books. 🙂 They’re not in any particular order except the order in which I read them.

1) American Dirt by Jeanine Cummins *****

Jeanine Cummins has written a riveting tale of a woman and son from Mexico who are forced to migrate to “el norte.” Lydia is a middle class woman who runs a bookstore in Acapulco and is married to journalist Sebastian. Acapulco has been experiencing gruesome violence due to drug cartels. The city is being terrorized and people are afraid to go out in public. Her husband writes an exposé about the head of a new drug cartel, Los Jardineros, that is threatening the established cartels in Acapulco. It turns out this jefe is nicknamed “La Lechuza,” or The Owl, because of the glasses he wears. When Lydia puts two and two together, she realizes La Lechuza is a man, Javier, who has been visiting her in her bookshop, and with whom she shares a love of books. He is poetic, this man, and it seems he might be in love with her to some degree. When Lydia reveals her friendship with Javier to her husband, he asks her to carefully read the article before it goes to press; she assures Sebastian that Javier will not have a problem with it; that no violence will come to Sebastian or their family.

However, things don’t go to plan, and one awful day soon after the article’s publication, during Lydia’s niece Yénifer’s quinceañera, or 15th birthday, while 16 members of Lydia’s family, including Sebastian, are celebrating in the backyard, they are all gunned down – murdered in cold blood – by Los Jardineros. Lydia and Luca, her 8-year-old son, happen to be in the bathroom during the murders and manage to evade the killers.

Thus starts the long journey of Lydia and Luca to escape without a trace to “el norte.” Lydia and Luca have seen the violence that befell their family, and Lydia knows Javier will not rest until she and Luca are dead.

The story tells of all the hardships and dangers the two encounter as they slowly and doggedly make their way north, out of Javier’s reach. The book is a page-turner, and it dives deep into the migrant experience. It gives backstory and a face to one of the thousands of migrants that make their way across the border of Mexico’s northern neighbor each year. An excellent rendering of people trying to survive and thrive under terrifying circumstances and threats to their lives.

Disappearing Earth and Oh William!

2) Disappearing Earth by Julia Phillips *****

On an August day, while their mother Marina is working as a journalist, two young girls, Sophia (8) & Alyona (11), go missing from a beach in Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky on the Kamchatka Peninsula in Russia. The first chapter reveals their abduction, but nothing more is revealed of their fate. Instead, the author introduces the reader to various characters and their lives, people all aware of the abduction of the two girls. Their lives have been impacted or curtailed due to this highly publicized disappearance. The awareness of the girls’ unknown fate puts everyone on edge; people are already struggling with personal turmoils in their lives and relationships before this darkness descends.

Reading about these characters shows the harsh reality of life in this far-flung region of Russia. It turns out there are indigenous people from the North; one of them had a teenage daughter disappear years before, but the police never took the case seriously. They tried to convince the family that the daughter simply ran away. But the mother always felt the daughter was murdered and the police didn’t care enough to investigate.

In a book such as this with so many characters, the author provides a much-appreciated chart at the front of the book listing the different families and their relationships and jobs. There is also a map of Kamchatka which I also appreciated, although it would have been nice to have a bit more detail to it.

Overall, the book was a fascinating look into the lives of people living in the hinterlands of Russia and their struggles and deepest dreams, hopes and fears.

3) Oh William! (Amgash #3) by Elizabeth Strout *****

This was my 5th Elizabeth Strout book, and I have loved them all. This one cements my appreciation of this author for all eternity. She tells a story of a woman, Lucy Barton, who suffered horribly through an impoverished and abusive childhood, yet still finds joy in her life. In this book, she tells the story of her relationship, both past and present, with her ex-husband and now friend William. She married him, she felt safe with him, yet she also felt he was absent somehow. She felt he had “authority,” which gave her peace of mind after her terrifying and uncertain childhood. But as William is revealed, we see all of his faults, and Lucy’s as well, and we understand deeply how flawed people are; we humans are all flawed.

William finds out he has a half-sister, Lois Bubar, who he never knew about. His mother, Caroline, had left her husband, a potato farmer in Maine, and daughter, Lois, to run off with a German POW after WWII. William is the son of Caroline and that father who fought on the side of the Nazis. When William finds out that he has a half-sister, he asks Lucy to accompany him to Maine to check into his sister. Together, they find out some surprises about William’s mother and his half-sister and about the impoverished Maine towns that his mother came from. Lucy meets Lois Bubar, but Lois declines to meet William, her half-brother, who sat in the car waiting.

The countryside of Maine passes outside their car window: “We passed by a restaurant whose paint was peeled, it had obviously long been closed, but in square letters out front was a sign that said: AM I THE ONLY ONE RUNNING OUT OF PEOPLE I LIKE?” They see an old couch sitting in the middle of nowhere, a man glaring furiously at them as they drive by, boarded up towns, and the impossibly tiny dilapidated house where Caroline grew up. All of this is a shock to both of them.

Lucy tells of someone she met as a freshman in college, someone ten years older than she was. He didn’t really seem her style after she got in his car that had cup holders in the armrests. “But I liked him, I probably loved him. I fell in love with everyone I met.” I could relate to this from my own college years.

Lucy has just lost her dear second husband, David. There are two daughters from William and Lucy’s marriage, Becka and Chrissy who are now adults. Lucy looks at William and sees the things she saw in him when they were first married, and then she sees in him the things that caused her to leave him. Ever changeable, William defies understanding. Oh William! And Oh Lucy!

The Summer House by Philip Teir

4) The Summer House by Philip Teir ******

I really loved this summer escape to the Finnish seaside through this family of four: Julia and Erik and their two children, Alice and Anton. Like every family, they come with baggage. Erik has been sacked from his mediocre job at a department store but hasn’t told his wife. Julia is a novelist who will spend her summer writing her next book. She had written one before about her childhood at this same summer home, which the family hasn’t visited in years, and her childhood friend Marika. She had somehow felt oppressed by Marika as a child; Julia hadn’t been in touch with her in years. But the family discovers that Marika is visiting her family home with her husband, Chris, who has some strong beliefs about the environment. Chris and Marika had been environmental activists but now “formed a loose-knit group in Scotland whose purpose – and the whole thing sounded a bit vague to Julia – was to prepare for living in the world after climate change. And they had decided that Mjölkviken was the perfect place from which to welcome the apocalypse.”

This is NOT a futuristic or dystopian book. It is a book relevant to the current times, though it was published in 2018. The cast of characters also include some random people who are part of the “movement,” Kati, a grieving woman therapist, Chris’s 13-year-old son Leo, and Erik’s brother Anders. All of them are struggling with personal failures or dilemmas or life decisions, both past and present. I really love this kind of slow-moving book that explores the issues of the day and personal struggles of the characters.

Behold the Dreamers by Imbolo Mbue
Behold the Dreamers by Imbolo Mbue
Speak, Silence by Kim Echlin
Speak, Silence by Kim Echlin
Out Stealing Horses by Per Petterson
Out Stealing Horses by Per Petterson

5) Behold the Dreamers by Imbolo Mbue ******

This book takes place during the 2008 financial crisis, when the main character, a Cameroonian immigrant, Jende Jonga, is working as a chauffeur for Clark Edwards, a senior executive for Lehman Brothers. Jende gets along well with Clark, and in addition he drives Clark’s wife, Cindy, and their children Vincent and Mighty, various places. As a quiet and observant chauffeur, Jende overhears phone conversations that reveal the troubles at Lehman Brothers and troubles in the family: Vincent wants to go to India for “enlightenment” and wants to shun all the materialism and consumerism of America. Of course his parents had higher hopes for him and are upset and disappointed by this decision. I personally can relate to this; although we are not even close to being in the upper 1%, our son also chose to throw off the consumerism in the U.S. and escape to poverty-stricken Nicaragua to live a “simple” life.

There are problems in both families. Clark’s wife Cindy is needy and suspicious of her husband’s long working hours. She abuses drugs and alcohol. At one point she asks Jende to keep a book detailing all the places he drives Clark. It’s a no-win situation as Jende knows he often drops Clark at the Chelsea Hotel, and so, in loyalty to Clark, he changes all the Chelsea drop-offs to “the gym.” Cindy has promised Jende will never lose his job as long as he reports the truth to her. This situation creates a major tension and turning point in the book.

Jende’s wife, Neni, loves New York and the promise of America. She is going to school in hopes of becoming a pharmacist, while raising her six-year-old son Liomi and being pregnant. When problems start to arise over Jende’s legal status, and the family begins to suffer from the recession and money worries, Jende and Neni are at odds over whether to return to Cameroon or continue to struggle in the U.S.

The best thing about this story is that it puts this Cameroonian family in the center of the immigration debate that has been ongoing in the U.S. We are a nation of immigrants but under the current administration, the U.S. is seeking to purge our country of black and brown skins, creating a white supremacist society. Even Jende finally recognizes that people like him will always be struggling just to keep their heads above water. The focus of the book on two families of different social classes, the wealthy 1% and the immigrants seeking a better life, shows the stark divide in this country between the haves and have-nots, and how horrible it is for people who are forced to live in poverty and, basically, as slaves to the wealthy. For this timely story, which could easily be set today as in 2008, this is great read to understand the different forces at work in American society.

6) Speak, Silence by Kim Echlin *****

This wonderful but disturbing novel tells a fictional story based on the Foča trial of 2000 at The Hague. Gota Dobson is a journalist who goes to Sarajevo to write about a film festival and to look for an old lover, Kosmos, who is also the father of her child Biddy. Kosmos is from Sarajevo and he has always been in love with Edina, who was one of the rape victims held hostage during the war. Edina would become a witness in the trial, along with many other women who were repeatedly raped, beaten, tortured and held captive during the war. Edina was in love with Ivan; she, Kosmos and Ivan had been childhood friends. Gota becomes captivated by the trial and decides to stay in Sarajevo and then go to The Hague to write about the horrendous story. She befriends Edina and together they navigate the suffering that the war inflicted, particularly on the women, as well as the legalities of the trial. She listens to the witnesses who come forward reluctantly, unwilling to relive the abuse they suffered, in the public eye.

This is a slim but powerful novel about the atrocities human beings commit against one another, and the slivers of love, as well as the will to live, found among the ruins.

7) Out Stealing Horses by Per Petterson *****

This dreamlike book tells a complex & ever-unfolding story of a boy on the cusp of becoming a man. We start by looking back: Trond Sander is 67 years old and has moved to a small house in the far east of Norway, almost on the border with Sweden. Here Trond hopes to simplify life, to escape from Oslo and commune with nature. He hasn’t shunned the world, in fact he listens to the radio all the time, but when he listens to the news “it no longer has the same place in my life. It does not affect my view of the world as once it did.” He has longed all his life to be alone in a place like this, and the only company he has is his dog Lyra.

But a person cannot be so easily shed of his past. He meets his lone neighbor, Lars Haug, and soon after, a summer from his past comes to him. It was 1948, and Trond was 15 and spending the summer with his father; the two of them had gone to this place on the edge of Norway, surrounded by wilderness. Trond remembers a July morning at this place when his dear friend Jon came to his door and said they were “going out stealing horses.” After they had their fun with the horses, in which Trond was hurt and cut by barbed wire, Jon led him to climb up a tree, where Jon acted senselessly and cruelly. It turned out that Jon had been responsible for a tragedy the previous day that involved his younger twin brothers, the same Lars he met at age 67, and his twin brother Odd.

This complex story tells of Trond and his enigmatic father, who had been involved in the war effort against the Germans. His father had his own ideas about what it meant to be a man, and he had his own particular way of doing things. Trond loved and admired his father immensely, but over time his admiration was challenged by a course of complicated events.

The writing in this book is spare yet poetic, and Petterson captures so well the elusive nature of life, relationships and emotions so that the reader is carried along on the journey, open to whatever transpires. There is sadness, joy, and a tangle of emotions to explore. It was an immensely enjoyable read.

The No. 1 Ladies’ Detective Agency & 1968: The Year that Rocked the World

8) The No. 1 Ladies’ Detective Agency by Alexander McCall Smith *****

I was pleasantly surprised and charmed by 35-year-old Precious Ramotswe, a self-assured, wise and round (in the “traditional” way) woman who, after her father dies leaving her many head of cattle, sells the cows and opens a detective agency.

She worries about making enough money in fees to support herself but her reputation builds quickly and the local citizens increasingly seek her out to help them solve problems. Missing husbands, insurance fraudsters, fake fathers, vanishing sons, and witch doctors feature as her clientele’s problems to be solved.

The story gives interesting background about Precious’ father, her childhood, her first husband, and her friends, as well as the land and culture of Botswana. The story is well written and straightforward with a twist of humor.

It was a pleasurable read all around.

9) 1968: The Year that Rocked the World by Mark Kurlansky *****

I was only 12-13 years old in 1968 but I remember well the images on TV of the Vietnam War, the student riots, the invasion of Czechoslovakia, and the Black Panthers. Of course I remember the assassinations of Martin Luther King and Robert Kennedy. Even though I didn’t understand everything that was happening at the time, the images were so seared in my mind that I felt I needed to read Mark Kurlansky’s excellent historical account of that pivotal year. I found it an excellent book. Since I was too young to be fully immersed in events of that time, I can’t account for whether Kurlansky’s book includes all the important points of view or all the watershed moments. But I learned a great deal from reading this book, especially about the student uprisings that were all over the world, not just in the U.S., and all the political movements coming head-to-head during the year.

The thing I remember most from that year was my father, a staunch Republican, screaming and yelling at the TV about hippies, black people, and the anti-war movement. I believe he was even happy that King and Kennedy were assassinated. My upbringing by that hateful and racist man shaped me to become the polar opposite of him: I’m an anti-war Democrat, a person with an open mind who cares about humanity and equality and women’s rights and the plight of the poor. I see clearly the dangers of unfettered and unregulated capitalism. The greedy and powerful will always want to control everything they can, and there is no limit to their greed, their conniving, and their selfishness. And despite all they’ve accumulated, they can’t be bothered to give back to the society which gave them the tools to succeed. The world still hasn’t found its way; even now in 2025, 57 years later, I see we still haven’t progressed much since that year. I thought we had, but I see too many similarities between today and that year of upheaval.

Despite all the horrible things that happened in 1968, I found this quote especially enlightening: “The thrilling thing about the year 1968 was that it was a time when significant segments of the population all over the globe refused to be silent about the many things that were wrong with the world. They could not be silenced. There were too many of them, and if they were given no other opportunity, they would stand in the street and shout about them. And this gave the world a sense of hope that it has rarely had, a sense that where there is wrong, there are always people who will expose it and try to change it.” (p. 380).

This is the hope embodied in the year of 1968, and in this book.

Rules of the Wild: A Novel of Africa by Francesca Marciano

10) Rules of the Wild: A Novel of Africa by Francesca Marciano *****

This book is hands down my favorite book read in 2025. How have I missed reading this author before now? This story made me immediately want to take the next plane to Kenya; it only helps that I recently met a wonderful Kenyan lady who is gentle, wise and inspiring; a woman I have great respect for. She had already piqued my interest about her country; this book led to me being utterly besotted.

This novel though is about white people living in Kenya. The narrator is Esmé, a beautiful Italian woman who arrives in Nairobi with a boyfriend after losing her beloved father Ferdinando; she decides to stay behind in Nairobi without the boyfriend when he leaves. She soon falls in love with Adam, a second-generation Kenyan who leads safaris in the wild. She is amazed by the kinds of people she meets in the circle of expats living there: journalists, documentary filmmakers, artists, relief workers, wildlife researchers. She seems mostly in awe of everything. She finds the landscape both alluring and inhospitable, and she doesn’t know how she will fit in, or if she ever will.

Despite being in a comfortable relationship with Adam, when she meets journalist Hunter Reed, she feels an immediate attraction, despite, or maybe because of, his outrage over the horrors, poverty and violence found in Africa, especially in Somalia and in Rwanda in the early 1990s. He sees things clearly and without the rose-colored glasses through which the other expats see Africa. Their attraction is fierce and to Esmé, this attraction feels dangerous. She’s in terror that she’ll be obliterated by Hunter and his power over her.

The writing in this novel is superb; I devoured every word. I loved being immersed in this world, and I still want – desperately – to stay in it. A wonderful, absorbing and utterly addictive story.

******

And here are two books that I think are very worthwhile reads: a book for the times and a book that lays bare the worst of humanity:

On Tyranny: Twenty Lessons from the Twentieth Century  by Timothy Snyder ****

On Tyranny – a book for the times

The similarities between our current regime in the U.S. (& other “national populist” – aka fascist – governments throughout the world) and 1930s Germany are made clear in this small book about how democracies become autocracies. Timothy Snyder outlines the twenty lessons from the 20th century about how the death of democracies comes about by a thousand paper cuts, through: degradation of the free press and institutions; proliferation of misinformation and outright lies; book banning and the dismantling of education (the dumber people are, the easier they are to control); the chipping away of civil rights of minorities and women; the ongoing threats to anyone who speaks truth to power and and the strongly worded (tweeted) DEMANDS for obeisance; the shedding of professional ethics; the hiring of thugs (masked “ICE” agents who don’t show any identification while basically “disappearing” people to prisons in another countries without due process) to do the government’s bidding; the rejection of norms; and the list goes on…. Every single one of these lessons are ones that we can see happening under our current regime. It’s no wonder it is said that Timothy Snyder left the country for Canada.

The only thing I would say could improve the book is for certain chapters to be more cohesive and on point, especially the Epilogue.

Madness Visible: A Memoir of War by Janine di Giovanni *****

Madness Visible: A Memoir of War by Janine di Giovanni

I bought this book in 2021 at a bookstore in Dubrovnik, Croatia called Algebra, which has a good English section. I remember asking the bookseller what book she would recommend so I could learn more about the Balkans and without hesitation, she handed me Madness Visible: A Memoir of War. I didn’t read it right away, but I should have. I should have known more about this war in the 1990s; I must have had my head buried in the sand.

Thanks to talented and brave journalist Janine Di Giovanni, I know more than I ever wanted to know about the horrific wars that took place over a decade in the former Yugoslavia. The book jumps back and forth in time, and shows the true cost of war: in deaths, in wounds, in destruction of homes and entire towns, in psychological damage. Men and boys were pulled out of their homes, forced to dig their own mass graves, and then shot and tossed into the graves. Many were tortured in concentration camps and then killed in terrible ways. Women were held prisoner and repeatedly raped. Many had babies from these rapes and then disowned them in shame. The damage was extensive and still continues today, even though the wars are over. For now.

The author tells the heartbreaking story of people that turned on each other over minor grievances, and then inflicted terrible things on them. Leaders, followed by their gullible masses, promised “pure homelands;” they dehumanized the “other,” and then together they destroyed everything: people’s homes, their lives, their last vestiges of hope. In this book, it’s the Serbs who were the most heartless, the most ruthless. They were determined to cleanse Bosnia of Muslims, and they did it without hesitation, with utmost cruelty and animosity; they became animals.

The Western powers that had the ability to stop it all sat on their hands and did virtually nothing until it was too late. What a travesty.

I applaud this journalist for laying bare the truth about a horrific tragedy, a failure of epic proportions, a descent into madness. It showed me exactly what human beings are capable of doing to one another when manipulated by leaders who are filled with hatred and want revenge and retribution.

What a gut-wrenching, heartbreaking, and devastating book.

***********

Did you read any great books this year? What were some of your favorites?

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  • Cocktail Hour

the november cocktail hour: a trip to panama, a costa rican thanksgiving & a move to lake arenal condos

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 December 1, 2025

November 30, 2025: Welcome to our November cocktail hour. Let’s have a Pedro Mandinga Casco Viejo artisenal rum in memory of our fun time in Panama. We can enjoy strong breezes and sunset views and maybe even a Costa Rican-style “tormenta.” You can even come along vicariously on our trip to Panama, and celebrate Mike’s and my 37th anniversary.

I have a variety of soda, seltzer water, or bebida de aloe for those of you who don’t drink. Mike can also whip up some excellent smoothies. Thanks for joining us in our escape into a peaceful corner of the world.

November marked our sixth month in Guanacaste, Costa Rica. It was the third month that we traveled outside of Costa Rica (the first being a trip to Nicaragua in July and the second back to the U.S. in October). We enjoyed exploring a country we’d never visited before and I added to my country count: I have now visited 41 countries. We still had plenty of down time while not traveling.

a belated gathering for halloween & my birthday

On the first of the month, Mike organized a little belated birthday/Day of the Dead get-together with Darrell, Farida and Carol at Paseo del Viento, where we listened to live tunes by singer Andrú and the local eye doctor, Dra. Ana Maria of Óptica Murano. She and singer Andrú, whom we met at “Smooth Jazz by the Lake” at Restaurante La Tortuga at the end of July, sang haunting and lively tunes. Andrú has a deep sultry voice that brings tears to my eyes! Darrell also took us to his favorite spot Subterra where not much was happening, but it was decked out for Halloween. I thought the big mirror at the far end was another room. 🙂

Dining out in Costa Rica

On Tuesday night, we took our neighbor Bruce out to dinner at Mary’s to repay him for driving us to and from the Liberia airport in October. 

On Friday afternoon, Carol extended a last minute invitation to come up to her house for sunset on the first sunny day we’ve had in a while. By the time we got up there, it was no longer sunny and there wasn’t much of a sunset to see. No matter, we enjoyed the views as we sat on her expansive porch drinking cava and gnoshing on chips & salsa. That was until lightning struck nearby followed by a loud clap of thunder that sent us scurrying into her house!

We drove to Restaurante Cielo’s Pizza in Cabrada Grande and enjoyed pizza and more chatting: about TV shows, her daughters and her coming grandchild, our sons, family dynamics and books by Pat Conroy. The people who ran the quirkily-decorated restaurant were super friendly; their space featured a bicycle display, a gold-decked Christmas tree (yes, already!), a wall of toy cars still in the packages, and a giraffe display outside the bathroom. We had a fun time as usual with our friend!

Our friends Anne and Jack finally returned to Costa Rica after nearly 3 months away late Friday night. We went to their house for drinks on Saturday night and then went out to dinner at Chafi’s. 

Mike and I went to El Corral for lunch one day, where we enjoyed gorgeous weather and good food.

Finally, on the Friday night before our move, Darrell and Farida invited us to meet them at a new unnamed restaurant in Tronadora. When we arrived, we found that a young woman named Eden was running it; we had met her and her mother Yendy at yoga back in June or July. I thought for some reason they were returning to the U.S. after the summer because Eden was attending university in North Carolina. But it turns out she’s attending school online and now has opened this cafe. We had a great time with Darrell and Farida, with lots of laughs and much wine flowing. Sadly, we found out upon our return from Panama that they have put their beautiful house up for sale and they plan to move to Kenya, Farida’s home of origin. Of course we hope they won’t sell their house right away as we love their company.

Election Day in the U.S.

We were thrilled with the U.S. election results from Tuesday, November 4. It appears that the country is coming out strong against Trump and his ill-begotten policies, his cruelty and hate-mongering, his Gestapo-like tactics and embrace of Naziism and Christian White Nationalism, his foreign policy, his handling of the economy, trade and tariffs, and his policies (or lack thereof) regarding healthcare. Mobilizing troops in U.S. cities has turned many Americans against him.

I did my duty in October and voted early in Virginia,; the election brought in a sweeping blue change to the entire state government, electing Abigail Spanberger for the first female governor of Virginia, Jay Jones as the first black attorney general of Virginia and Ghazala Hashmi as the first Muslim woman to hold statewide office. In addition, Democrats flipped 13 House of Delegates seats, giving Democrats a trifecta in the state’s governance. I’m very proud of Virginia for coming through for a more progressive agenda that should address the concerns of Virginians struggling in an economy that just isn’t working for them.

Virginia wasn’t the only bellweather. In New Jersey, Mikie Sherrill triumphed over her Republican opponent by 13%. Democratic Socialist Zohran Mamdani beat out his opponents (including Andrew Cuomo who ran as an independent and was endorsed by Trump) by 9% for mayor of New York City. Finally, California voted FOR Prop 50 to redistrict the state to add more democratic votes to counteract Republican states redrawing maps in obeisance to Donald Trump; he demanded they do such to give him more Republican votes in the 2026 midterms.

A 10-day trip to Panama: Panama City & the Panama Canal

We visited Panama from November 10-19. In Panama City, we explored Casco Viejo, the old compound, where we found famous churches, the Panama Canal Museum, and “Panama” hats. We walked the Amador Causeway, explored the Frank Gehry-designed BioMuseo and visited the Mercado de Mariscos. We explored our neighborhood of El Cangrejo, enjoyed our 19th floor apartment and pool, and tried rum drinks at Pedro Mandinga Rum Bar. Finally we visited the Miraflores Visitor Center and the Panama Canal, where we watched a container ship and a cruise ship pass slowly through the locks. We explored the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo (aka MAC Panamá) and visited the father of one of Mike’s co-workers in the impoverished neighborhood of Curundú.

Our 37th anniversary celebration

We celebrated our 37th anniversary at Marques in Panama City, toasting our enduring marriage, the ups & downs, with wine & a special dinner out at Marques. I had catch of the day – sea bass fillet with pistachio crust, mussels in coconut milk with lemongrass, ying yang sauce, and blue curaçao. Mike got a Del Bosque: Risotto served with asparagus, mushrooms, and Parmesan with imported beef strips. We shared a brownie with ice cream for dessert. As we are early eaters, we had almost the entire restaurant to ourselves.

Bocas del Toro

In Bocas del Toro, we relaxed a lot in our Orange House at Over the Water Rentals. We rented ebikes and rode 40 minutes to Boca del Drago and took a water taxi to Playa Estrella, where we waded through the water among starfish. We rode the ebikes to Bluff Beach. We took a water taxi to Isla Careneró for a lunch at Bibi’s on the Beach, and then on to Red Frog Beach on Isla Bastimento, where I ran into a piece of driftwood, drawing blood and causing an edema. We enjoyed drinks with our neighbors from Vermont, Sidney and Steve. We kayaked to a little island in Saigon Bay where we snorkeled among corals. We then returned to Panama City under trying conditions.

Returning from Bocas del Toro to Panama City -> San José -> home

As we approached Panama City from Bocas del Toro on Panama Air, we flew in circles around the domestic airport, Marcos A. Gelabert International Airport (PAC), because of a “meteorological event.” We finally landed in the middle of “una tormenta,” a storm with raging winds, a torrential downpour, thunder and lightning. We sat on the plane for 40 minutes, unable to safely get off because it was a small plane where they pull up a portable staircase so passengers can disembark on the tarmac. The storm wasn’t letting up at all. Suddenly the plane started moving and we thought they might be taking us to a hangar to let us off the plane under cover. But the next thing we knew, without a word from the pilot or the stewardess, we were taking off down the runway. Nobody had a clue what was going on. We flew in a wide circle overlooking the ships sitting waiting to enter the Panama Canal. We thought maybe they were taking us to Tocumen International Airport, east of the city. But no! We realized that they were taking us back to the same airport where we’d landed the first time. Why, why, why?? We never discovered the answer.

This time, the storms had cleared and we were able to disembark, an hour late, just in time for rush hour.

After the dogs sniffed everyone’s luggage, we picked ours up and called an Uber. The Uber driver told us it would take two hours to get to our hotel near Tocumen Airport, 18 miles away. But he was wrong. The roads were in utter gridlock, we weren’t going anywhere. The estimated time was growing to 2 1/2 hours! The driver said it was because of the big fútbol match between Panama and El Salvador that was at the stadium near Tocumen. (Panama won and qualified for the World Cup; it was only the 2nd time they’ve qualified for the World Cup since 1978.)

We changed our destination with the Uber driver to Pedro Mandinga Rum Bar in El Cangrejo. It took us 1 3/4 hours to get there. We drank (a Casco Viejo – their in-house aged rum – & a Carajillo a la Pedro) and ate (Crostini Romesco & Vegano Trio de Patacones). We waited until the game started at 8:00, confirmed by Waze that the traffic had died down, and took an Uber another 30 minutes to our hotel. What a day!

When we flew into Costa Rica at 9:05 am (CR time) on Wednesday, we were awestruck by the mountainous surroundings around the capital of San José. From the air, they looked to be uninhabited, with barely a car, road or house in sight.

We were pleasantly surprised by the perfect cool and breezy weather (especially after sweltering Panama). We took a taxi from the airport to the hotel where we’d left our car. We found when we put our route home into Waze that we needed to avoid Route 1 and go north over winding mountain roads through Atenas, Palmeras, and San Ramon and then through La Fortuna at the NE end of Lake Arenal to get home, an estimated time of 4 hours and 40 minutes. We weren’t happy about that, but it would be better than sitting in heavy traffic on Route 1. Plus, we would see parts of Costa Rica west of San José that we’d planned to visit on a road trip the week before Christmas. It took a lot of time and concentration, especially for Mike who was driving, but we loved the scenery especially once we got away from the city.

We arrived in La Fortuna at 1:30 and stopped for lunch at Kappa Sushi, a place we’d liked when we visited the area in August. I enjoyed a Dragon Roll with shrimp tempura and Mike a Spicy Tuna Roll. After lunch, it was another 1 hour 40 minutes to our house in San Luis.

We arrived home at 4:00 and opened the house to cool breezes and gorgeous skies. Within an hour, we witnessed a marvelous richly-hued sunset. We were happy to be home to our house on Lake Arenal, but sad to know that in just 10 days, we’d be moving to the other end of the lake to Lake Arenal Condos for our last 6 months here.

Thanksgiving in Costa Rica

Thursday night we went with our friends Anne and Jack to Lake Arenal Brewery where they were offering a Thanksgiving meal and Spanish tunes by Olson del Toro.

Homebody stuff

On Sunday, November 2, we walked our 4-mile loop from our house to Tronadora and back, finding for the first time since July that the road that almost collapsed has now been redesigned and paved over. Another walk in Tronadora on Sunday the 30th, revealed more improvements on the road.

I continued my personal training with Nela on Monday, Wednesday and Friday while I was in Costa Rica, and then continued with her once we returned home from Panama.

On the 4th, Mike and I went to Liberia, me for a tomographia on my mouth and Mike for a consultation with Dr. Andrés Ugalde for a surgery for his carpal tunnel syndrome. Mike scheduled his surgery for December 2 here in Costa Rica, after which he won’t be able to swim, lift weights, drive a stick shift, etc. for 3-6 weeks. This means that for 3-6 weeks, I will have to do most of the cooking, cleaning, and especially driving the stick shift. We have a road trip planned to Volcán Poas in December, where I’ll have to do all the driving.

Meanwhile, the dentist wrote that my tomographia didn’t show any problems with my mouth, allowing me to lay that worry to rest.

On the last Tuesday of the month, we returned to Liberia to get a new permiso to take our car out of Costa Rica for our last 6 months here. This should cover us for two more visits, one in January and one in April. The permiso was surprisingly easy to get, with no line at all and a very helpful service professional. After that, we went to WalMart to buy clothes to take to the girls for a belated Christmas in January. It was an incredibly stressful 1 1/2 hours. For one the selection was really pathetic and figuring out the correct sizes, colors and styles was nearly impossible. We had already bought toys for Mikey on a previous visit. We wanted to get all this done while Mike still had use of both his hands and before we moved, and before everything was totally picked over as Christmas approached.

We went to Burger King for lunch, and because I never know how to order properly on the screens they provide for ordering, I accidentally ordered a Kid’s meal, and the server handed me a Kiddie box and asked which toy I’d prefer. Hilarious!

I finished 6 books in November, bringing my total to 44/48. I especially enjoyed The No. 1 Ladies’ Detective Agency by Alexander McCall Smith and 1968: The Year That Rocked the World by Mark Kurlansky; the latter tells about a year of upheaval which had many similarities to the current U.S. timeline in 2025. I also loved Memento Park by Mark Sarvas. We watched one movie, Mango, a bit cheesy but still enjoyable, especially the scenery in the beautiful town of Frigiliana, Spain. We started The Beast in Me, A Man on the Inside, and The Asset. We finished watching Adolescence, Angela, and the fifth season of Pernille, which I hope will have more seasons in the future because we LOVED it. We continued watching Younger, Seinfeld, Platonic, Unforgotten, The Morning Show, and The Diplomat. We endured another month that ended with a long 1,148 days left in our right-wing fascist oligarchy in the USA.

Moving to Lake Arenal Condos for our last six months

We spent much of the morning and early afternoon on Saturday the 29th moving into our new home at Lake Arenal Condos. The new place is on the ground floor of a three story condominium complex which sits high on the edge of a steep hill and has a magnificent view of Lake Arenal and Volcán Arenal.

Most things were going smoothly until we realized that we had ants and larvae living in the rim of the master bathroom toilet bowl, where water is distributed from the tank to rinse the bowl after each toilet flush. After much spraying of Black Flag and flushing, we seemed to get most of them out.

When we went to bed in the master bedroom, we found ants crawling around the bed. I freaked out, thinking they must have come in through the door we had left open to the porch (with a screen). However, when we woke on Sunday morning, we lifted the mattress to tuck in the sheets and found ants crawling all over on the the bed frame. We took the mattress off the wooden platform and there, under the mattress and on the bottom of the mattress, we found a whole ant colony, complete with larvae, bustling around. They had been having a grand time while we were sleeping right on top of them. Argh!!!

We sprayed Black Flag all over and washed all the bedding, but we are not going to be able to sleep in that bed until we’re certain that all the ants are permanently exterminated. As of Sunday afternoon, we hadn’t seen any movement, but our bed was still disassembled and we refused to sleep in it.

Embattled and stressed from our first day in the condo, we decided we deserved a treat after our harrowing adventure. We went to Tilarán to attend a concert billed as “Concierto de Ensamble Atrespam;” Atrespam is the Escuela de Musica in Tilaran. We watched some singers perform, but we didn’t know the names of any of them. The woman singer was especially good. We enjoyed the concert, checked out some artwork on the walls of the lobby, then took a walk around the city park, where we saw Christmas lights and another live concert.

We wandered to Paseo del Viento for drinks and hamburgers. It was a relief to escape our stressful first day in the new condo.

The Fall Bingo Card

This was a good month for checking off things on my Fall Bingo Card, especially during our trip to Panama and our move to Lake Arenal Condos.

  • Got a green pedicure
  • Worked on my 2026 bullet journal, especially creating my reading list for 2026
  • Wore more of my cowboy-themed t-shirts
  • Saw the Panama Canal and the Miraflores Visitor Center
  • Visited museums in Panama City: Biomuseo & Museo de Arte Contemporáneo; we also saw the Panama Canal murals
  • Went snorkeling in Bocas del Toro and took an island “boat tour” – in water taxis
  • Made a Veggie-packed navy bean soup
  • Celebrated Thanksgiving at Lake Arenal Brewery with our friends Anne & Jack
  • Moved to our new home at Lake Arenal Condos
  • Finished five books: The Narrow Road to the Interior: Poems by Kimiko Hahn; 1968: The Year That Rocked the World by Mark Kurlansky; There Must Be More Than This by Judith Wright; The Last Light Over Oslo by Alix Rickloff; and Memento Park by Mark Sarvas.

Family happenings from afar

Maria sent photos of the girls and Mikey dressed up for some friends’ Halloween party. Maria posted a photo of little Mike wandering with his overalls hanging off one shoulder, hanging with the cows, making a mess while eating, finally growing some hair, and trying to do gymnastics moves like this sisters.

Alex and Allie “played chess” with Allie concentrating — on the TV. Also, Alex, Jandira and Allie went for a two night getaway to Elkton, Va, where they did some hiking and celebrated Jandira’s 32nd birthday on the 24th.

On my Costa Rica blog, you can find my weekly recaps of our lives in Costa Rica for the month of November:

  • a new personal training regimen, a cattle auction & a belated birthday/halloween gathering {week 22/52}
  • a relaxing (& hopeful) week before a trip to panama & a drive to san josé {week 23/52}
  • a jaunt to panama: panama city & bocas del toro, and return to costa rica {weeks 24 -25/52}
  • a permiso for two more trips to nicaragua, a costa rican thanksgiving, & a move to a new home {week 26/52}
*********

I hope you’ll share how the year is panning out for you, and what plans you have for the holidays and the rest of this year.

How did your November go? Did you have any special family gatherings? Have you welcomed any new additions to your family?  Did you celebrate any birthdays or anniversaries? Have you read any good books that can inform your worldview, seen any good movies, binge-watched any television series? Have you planned any adventures or had any autumn getaways? Have you dreamed any dreams? Have you gone to any exotic restaurants, cooked any new dishes? Have you been surprised by anything in life? Have you marked off activities on your Fall Bingo card? Have you made any new friends? Have you learned anything new, taken any classes or just kept up with the news? Have you sung along with any new songs? Have you undertaken any new exercise routines? Have you marched or otherwise participated in political protests? Have you been battered, or alternately, uplifted by any news?

Please share your November with me by giving me the plot below, or a link to a post in your blog that tells about your month.

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  • Bocas del Toro
  • Bocas Town
  • Central America

panama: the caribbean archipelago of bocas del toro

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 November 24, 2025

Friday, November 14, 2025: Bocas del Toro is an archipelago on the Caribbean side of Panama almost to the Costa Rican border. We arrived to the largest of the islands, Isla Colón, this morning at 11:00 am at the Bocas del Toro Airport. I think it may be the smallest airport I’ve encountered in my travels to 41 countries. Airport security had dogs sniff each piece of luggage and then loaded the suitcases through a small door for passengers to pick up.

We then got a taxi – a 5 minute ride – to our Airbnb on Saigon Bay.

Our Airbnb rental at Saigon Bay in Bocas del Toro was called The Orange House, a rental by Over the Water. It offered free paddle boards, kayaks and snorkeling equipment to use. It had a living-area deck, equipped with a hammock, couches, chairs and a table, overlooking the bay. It was so relaxing with the sound of water lapping underfoot that I was tempted not to do a thing but laze around during our entire four-day stay.

The purple house in the pictures was a neighboring house.

After checking in and getting a tour of the property by one of the owners, Marlin, we walked down a path to the main road and ate lunch at what Marlin called a “working man’s” restaurant, El Beso del Dragon. I had pescado frito (fried whole fish) and Mike had sopa de carne y rabito (beef and oxtail soup). Then we walked to the supermarket to get some supplies for our stay.

After lounging about the house all afternoon, Friday night we had dinner at the charming El Ultima Refugio in Bocas Town. It was a pleasant experience, sitting in the restaurant that juts out into the Caribbean with waves lapping underfoot, a cool breeze and a perfectly mellow playlist.

El Ultimo Refugio is a Caribbean-fusion restaurant with an ever-changing menu seasonally steered by the availability of fresh local ingredients. The server brings out a whiteboard and props it on a chair so patrons can study the evening’s menu.

We shared three “small plate” appetizers which were so generous we had to take some home: fried shrimp with pineapple salsa; Patacon Pisao (fried green plantains  topped with BBQ pulled pork, pico de gallo & passionfruit sauce); and gnocchi in creamy garlic sauce with white wine, cherry tomatoes, mushrooms, broccoli, and Parmesan cheese. We also shared a Snickers bar-type pie.

Saturday, November 15: Saturday morning in Bocas del Toro, we rented e-bikes and rode 40 minutes to the far end of Isla Colón to Playa Boca del Drago, where we caught a water taxi to Playa Estrella. There we found colorful beach shacks serving various foods and beverages. Further down the beach, removed from the eating establishments, we found numerous starfish on the sandy bottom. People are not supposed to touch them or they can die, so we just waded carefully in the water observing them and taking photos. It was interesting that each one had a different pattern.

At Playa Estrella we had smoothies while waiting for our water taxi to take us back to our e-bikes.

From there we backtracked another 25 minutes then turned to the northwest to visit Bluff Beach. This was a nice beach but more for surfers as the sea here was rough. We stopped at Skully’s, not the best move as the place was inefficient and lackadaisical. We gobbled down a few sloppy tasteless tacos and then rode back the rest of the way to Bocas Town where we returned the e-bikes at Bocas eBikes.

Saturday night El Ultimo Refugio had live music 🎶, so we had dinner there for the 2nd night in a row. We shared a delicious tomato curry soup and salmon rigatoni with pesto sauce, bacon, cherry tomatoes and Parmesan. This time we sat next to a young couple with a 3-month-old baby. Strangely enough, the young woman was married to an Angolan man (the opposite of our son Alex who is married to an Angolan woman), and their baby was a boy. We told them about our son and daughter-in-law and that they were living in our house while we were living in Costa Rica. We said we hoped Alex and Jandira could save money while they lived there, although the day care is outrageously expensive in Northern Virginia at $1,800/month for only 3 days/week! They told us they were living currently in the young woman’s parent’s condo in Chicago, and they were finding the same outrageous costs for daycare that Alex and Jandira are encountering. This is a such a financial burden for young couples trying to start a family. The woman said that she doesn’t think the U.S. is family friendly. She and her husband met in South Africa and wonder if they should move somewhere outside of the States.

Sunday, November 16: On Sunday, we took a taxi to Bocas Town where there was a big festival going on to celebrate the town’s founding. We wrangled our way through the crowds to find a water taxi to take us to the more sedate Isla Carenero, adjacent to Isla Colón. Our water taxi pilot, Luis, dropped us at the pier at the rather decrepit Buccaneer Hotel.

Next door was Bibi’s on the Beach, a restaurant our neighbors Steve and Sidney from Vermont recommended. We had to wait a half hour for Bibi’s on the Beach to open at noon, but soon we ordered drinks, an Aperol Spritz & a Gin Basil, and enjoyed their music playlist and views of the archipelago. We shared sautéed mussels with lime & garlic & Coco & Curry fish: Grilled with coconut & curry sauce with toasted almonds. We lingered for quite a while soaking up the atmosphere until Luis returned with the water taxi to take us to our next destination, Red Frog Beach on Isla Bastimentos.

We arrived by water taxi at the marina near the Red Frog Beach Resort on Isla Bastimentos, paid the $5/person fee, and then walked 13 minutes to the other side of Isla Bastimento to the Beach Club. It was rather gloomy when we first arrived. Mike went for a swim while I relaxed under the thatched umbrella and drank a beer. Finally the sun came out and we took a little walk on the beach.

We continued our walk on Red Frog Beach until we found an interesting piece of driftwood sticking out of the beach which called out to us for photos. While taking the last photo of Mike, I ran smack into the other end of the driftwood sticking out of the sand and punctured my shin, releasing a stream of blood and causing an immediate edema. Ouch! I waded into the sea to rinse off the blood. Luckily, lifeguard Juan Carlo put ice on the swelling and patched me up. We caught a golf cart back to the other side of the island where Luis soon came to pick us up in the water taxi, returning us to Bocas Town.

Back at our Orange House, Mike took good care of me, bringing me an ice pack to put on my elevated leg. The owners gave us some antibiotic which I applied. I was sure I’d have a nasty bruise for a while once the swelling went down. This was my third accident today, the first knocking over & spilling my drink at Bibi’s, the 2nd running into the driftwood, and the 3rd, dropping one of the clothespins into the water when I was hanging out clothes on the line. What a klutz I was today!

Sunday evening we stayed in at our Orange House over the water and watched the sunset, ordered a pizza for delivery, and then had drinks with our neighbors Steve & Sidney from Vermont. Their kids had finally flown the coop and, in their mid-50s, they’d decided to start working remotely in different places. Steve works for the State of Vermont and Sidney does immigration work, helping people to get their paperwork and green cards. They came to Panama for a month and had settled in nicely in Bocas for a couple of weeks to work and soak up the island life. The things that Sidney said sounded like they’d come right from my mouth, so I took an immediate liking to her. They said they hope to be traveling like we do when they finally retire.

Monday, November 17: We enjoyed the views Monday morning from our Orange House. After our lazy morning, we took the kayaks (offered free by our Airbnb) to an island and snorkeled around looking at coral 🪸. We saw mostly yellow corals, but some red, purple & orange. Some were like tropical leaves, others like boa constrictors tightly wound. We saw mostly tiny fish. What put a stop to my snorkeling adventure was coming face to face with a jellyfish. We enjoyed our leisurely paddle back to our Orange House and then ate leftover pizza.

I had to take a picture in the hammock of life mimicking art, 🖼️ except for the 70-year-old legs 😩.

Our last evening in Bocas del Toro we continued soaking up the pleasant atmosphere at our Orange House. We went out for dinner at Om Cafe in Bocas Town. We shared Butter Paneer and chickpea masala. The last two pictures are from the bathroom doors at Om Cafe.

It was hot and humid on this Caribbean side of Panama, but once were were “over the water” in the evenings, we found a cool breeze and a pleasant vibe. Many foreigners come here to live citing a “tropical paradise” but much of Bocas Town is impoverished and the heat & humidity during the daytime are oppressive. For me, it’s nowhere close to my perfect place to settle. I’ll keep searching but in the meantime, I dream of Crete or the highlands of Mexico.

Tuesday, November 18: Tuesday morning, it was check out time from “our” Orange House. We waited until the checkout time of 11:00, with Mike even taking the kayak out into Saigon Bay one last time. Meanwhile I relaxed, showered and packed. One picture below shows a seashell 🐚 at the end of the pull string for the fan, with the fish painted on the wall. The whole place was charmingly decorated with hundreds of huge conch shells and other natural things from the sea.

After checking out, we sat in the common area waiting for a 1:00 taxi to the airport for our 2:30 flight back to Panama City. I wish we had known that there was a very small plane that flies directly from Bocas to San José. It would have saved us a lot of time. As it was, we had to return to Panama City, spend the night, and catch an early flight out to San Jose on Wednesday morning. Then we’d have a 3-hour drive to our house in Tilaran.

It’s a bummer when you find out too late that things could have been easier!

Below were our last views of Bocas del Toros. Little did we know what we would encounter on our return trip to Panama City….

As we approached Panama City from Bocas del Toro on Panama Air, we saw the bay in the first picture below not once, not twice, but three times as we flew in circles around the domestic airport, Marcos A. Gelabert International Airport (PAC), because of a “meteorological event.” We finally landed in the middle of “una tormenta,” a storm with raging winds, a torrential downpour, thunder and lightning. We sat on the plane for 40 minutes, unable to safely get off because it was a small plane where they pull up a portable staircase so passengers can disembark on the tarmac. The storm wasn’t letting up at all. Suddenly the plane started moving and we thought they might be taking us to a hangar to let us off the plane under cover. But the next thing we knew, without a word from the pilot or the stewardess, we were taking off down the runway. Everybody was looking at each other: “What’s happening? We’re taking off again? Where are they taking us?” Nobody had a clue what was going on. We flew in a wide circle overlooking the ships sitting waiting to enter the Panama Canal. We thought maybe they were taking us to Tocumen International Airport, east of the city. But no! We realized that they were taking us back to the same airport where we’d landed the first time. Why, why, why??

This time, the storms had cleared and we were able to disembark, an hour late, just in time for rush hour.

After the dogs sniffed everyone’s luggage, we picked ours up and called an Uber. The Uber driver told us it would take two hours to get to our hotel near Tocumen Airport. But he was wrong. The roads were in utter gridlock, we weren’t going anywhere. The estimated time was growing to 2 1/2 hours! The driver said it was because of the big fútbol match between Panama and El Salvador that was at the stadium near Tocumen. (Panama won and qualified for the World Cup; it was only the 2nd time they’ve qualified for the World Cup since 1978.)

We changed our destination with the Uber driver to Pedro Mandinga Rum Bar in El Cangrejo. It took us 1 3/4 hours to get there. We drank (a Casco Viejo – their in-house aged rum – & a Carajillo a la Pedro), ate (Crostini Romesco & Vegano Trio de Patacones). We waited until the game had started at 8:00, confirmed by Waze that the traffic had died down, and took an Uber another 30 minutes to our hotel. What a day!

Wednesday, November 19: We left our hotel at 6:00 am on Wednesday morning for an 8:40 flight from Panama City to San José on Copa Airlines (about a 1 hr+ flight). We ate breakfast at the airport and took off on time in pouring rain. We flew over the ships waiting to enter the Panama Canal and before long were above the clouds. As we crossed into Costa Rica we saw nothing but mountains beneath us, although Mike could see the Caribbean and I could see the Pacific Ocean and the Nicoya Peninsula from our respective sides. (We each got aisle seats across from each other with no one else beside us). How I love seeing the landscape and the clouds from a plane.

When we flew into Costa Rica at 9:05 am (CR time) on Wednesday, we were awestruck by the mountainous surroundings around the capital of San José. From the air, they looked to be uninhabited, with barely a car, road or house in sight.

The metro area of about 2 million people sits in a high valley surrounded by volcanoes and those seemingly impenetrable mountains. From where we live in Tilaran, it takes about 3 hours to drive there taking the flattest route close to the country’s southern border on Route 1. That road is often only two lanes and is usually burdened by heavy traffic, especially during weekdays.

We were pleasantly surprised by the perfect cool and breezy weather (especially after sweltering Panama). We took a taxi from the airport to the hotel where we’d left our car, encountering numerous detours due to road construction. We found when we put our route home into Waze that we needed to avoid Route 1 and go north over winding mountain roads through Atenas, Palmeras, and San Ramon and then through La Fortuna at the NE end of Lake Arenal to get home, an estimated time of 4 hours and 40 minutes. We weren’t happy about that, but it would be better than sitting in heavy traffic on Route 1. Plus, we would see parts of Costa Rica west of San José that we’d planned to visit on a road trip the week before Christmas. It took a lot of time and concentration, especially for Mike who was driving, but we loved the scenery especially once we got away from the city.

We arrived in La Fortuna at 1:30 and stopped for lunch at Kappa Sushi, a place we’d liked when we visited the area in August. After lunch, it was another 1 hour 40 minutes to our house in San Luis.

We arrived home at 4:00 and opened the house to cool breezes and gorgeous skies. Within an hour, we witnessed a marvelous richly-hued sunset. We were happy to be home to our house on Lake Arenal, but sad to know that in just 10 days, we’d be moving to the other end of the lake to Lake Arenal Condos for our last 6 months here.

Here is a video of our time from Bocas del Toro back to Costa Rica.

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  • Casco Viejo
  • Central America
  • El Cangrejo

a trip to panama city: el cangrejo, casco viejo & the panama canal

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 November 22, 2025

Monday, November 10, 2025: We arrived at the San José Airport (Juan Santamaría International Airport) and waited for our 10:05 a.m. Copa Airlines flight to Panama. The flight was about 1 1/2 hours and luckily without incident.

El Cangrejo

We arrived at our neighborhood of El Cangrejo in Panama City at PH Sky Swiss, an Airbnb apartment on the 19th floor of a condominium. There we found a bearskin rug, which Mike quickly commandeered, and magnificent views of the city’s skyline.

We went out for lunch at Uva Cafe next door to our building. Mike had a Smash Burger Cuarto de Libro and I had a Perrito Mejicano (a hot dog on a Brioche bun with jalapeños, salsa and cheddar). We saw the Panamanian flag everywhere and found out that day, November 10, was Los Santos Uprising Day in Panama. This public holiday commemorates the beginning of Panama’s struggle for independence from Spain in 1821.

The event that sparked an anti-Spanish uprising in La Villa de los Santos is known as Grito de La Villa de los Santos or the Cry of Rufina Alfaro. Rufina Alfaro was a young woman who lived in a small village near Los Santos. On November 10, 1821 she led a group of Panamanians, shouting “Viva la Libertad” (Long Live Liberty). People armed with sticks and stones seized Spanish barracks without spilling a single drop of blood. Many claim that Rufina is a legend, although the uprising in Los Santos did occur.

After lunch we relaxed in the apartment after our two days of travel, enjoying the views and the air-conditioning.

In the evening, we wandered around El Cangrejo finding some colorful murals on a dollar store and Einstein’s Head, also known as Cabeza de Einstein, a landmark located on a traffic island in the neighborhood. The bust that changes color at night was donated by the local Jewish community and designed by Panamanian artist Carlos Arboleda in 1968.

We enjoyed dinner at Pho Vietnam, which was colorfully decorated with umbrellas on the ceiling and a giant plastic bowl of Pho at the entry. I had Mixed Noodles with Shrimp and Mike had Combination Pho. We then strolled around the lively neighborhood after dinner.

Tuesday, November 11: We enjoyed morning views from our apartment window, ate breakfast in, then went out to explore Casco Viejo, the Old Compound. We took Ubers everywhere we went in Panama City at a very reasonable cost.

Casco Viejo (Old Compound)

Following the destruction of the old city in 1671, the Spanish moved their city to a rocky peninsula at the foot of Cerro Ancón. The new location was easier to defend as the reefs prevented ships from approaching the city except at high tide. The massive wall surrounding it also helped with defense. Casco Viejo (Old Compound) got its name from this wall.

In 1904, when construction began on the Panama Canal, all of Panama City existed where Casco Viejo stands today. However, as population growth and urban expansion pushed the boundaries of Panama City further east, the city’s elite abandoned Casco Viejo and the neighborhood rapidly deteriorated into a slum.

Today Casco Viejo’s crumbling facades have been mostly replaced by immaculate renovations. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2003, the restored architecture gives a glimpse of the old city’s magnificence.

We started our exploration of the area Tuesday morning at Plaza Francia. At the tip of the southern point of Casco Viejo, this plaza pays respect to the French role in the construction of the canal. Its large stone tablets and statues are dedicated to the memory of the 22,000 workers who died trying to create the canal.

The Paseo las Bóvedas esplanade runs along the top of the sea wall built by the Spanish to protect the city. From here, we could see the Puente de las Américas arching over the waterway and the ships lining up to enter the canal.

We dipped into an art gallery in Las Bóvedas (The Vaults) next to the Teatro Nacional, built in 1907.

We walked along the sea wall on Paseo Esteban Huertas where we found indigenous Kuna women selling the embroidered molas (handmade textile panels) for which the country is famous.

The compact Casco Viejo is a mix of restored neoclassical, rainbow-hued buildings with wrought-iron balconies; centuries-old churches; and narrow cobblestone streets.

We came upon a large recessed brick arch known as Arco Chato (Flat Arch), about 15 meters long and 10 meters high, which supported the choir of Saint Dominic’s Church. It became a popular tourist attraction in the 19th century, despite being located among ruins. It was declared a national monument in 1941.

The flat Arch remained standing until 2003, when it collapsed unexpectedly. The current arch is a reconstruction lined with its original bricks.

In the Augustinian Iglesia de San José (built 1671-1677), the extraordinary Altar de Oro (Golden Altar – a wooden altar covered in gold leaf) is a treasure – with a legend to match.

The story goes that when Welsh privateer Henry Morgan launched his 1671 attack on Panamá Viejo – which resulted in the destruction of the original Panama City – Jesuit priests painted the altarpiece black to disguise it, telling Morgan that another pirate had already stolen it.

In a back room of the church was an expansive village diorama that told the story of Jesus, from Mary’s visit from the angels to everything before Christ’s resurrection. In the same room were wooden life-size figures of the 12 disciples, except for one that was missing.

We continued our stroll through Casco Viejo: Plaza Herrera, government buildings, Church of the Mercy (a small church with a 1680 Baroque facade), Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of Santa Maria the Ancient, and the Municipal Palace.

We enjoyed a nice lunch at Al Alma Cafe & Brunch, where we shared a chorizo empañada & Eggs Benedict with avocado & Parmesan. We had a great time chatting with Nicholas, our server from Medellin, Colombia, before heading over to the Panama Canal Museum.

The Panama Canal Museum (Interoceanic Canal Museum) covers a lot of the complicated history of this massive project.

The Panama Canal is an artificial 82-kilometer (51-mile) waterway in Panama that connects the Caribbean Sea with the Pacific Ocean. It cuts across the narrowest point of the Isthmus of Panama, and is a conduit for maritime trade between the Atlantic Ocean and the Pacific Ocean.

France began work on the canal in 1881, but stopped in 1889 because of a lack of investors’ confidence due to engineering problems and a high worker mortality rate. The US took over the project in 1904 and opened the canal in 1914. The US continued to control the canal and the surrounding Panama Canal Zone until the Torrijos–Carter Treaties provided for its handover to Panama in 1977. After a period of joint American–Panamanian control, the Panamanian government took control in 1999. It is now managed and operated by the Panamanian government-owned Panama Canal Authority.

The history of the canal is long, complicated, and littered with lost lives. Mike just finished an excellent read about it by David MuCullough: The Path Between the Seas. If one took the time to read every placard in the museum, one might also gain a thorough understanding of the obstacles faced in the canal’s construction.

We also found an art exhibition about migration, especially through the Darien Gap between Colombia and Panama. According to the exhibit: “In recent years, the Darien rainforest has become one of the busiest and most dangerous migration routes in the world. Since 2016, more than one million people have crossed it, facing extreme conditions, violence, and exploitation. In 2023, the number of migrants reached a record 520,000, many of them seeking asylum after fleeing economic crises, conflicts, and persecution in their countries of origin.

“In 2025, the dynamic has changed dramatically. The recent closure of immigration centers in Panama and the mass deportations implemented in the United States have reduced transit through this route by 98%. These measures have forced many migrants to return to their countries, while others seek alternative, often more dangerous, routes.”

The last place we stopped in Casco Viejo, was Victor’s for a Panamanian “Panama hat.” Even though I bought several Panama hats in Ecuador, the true source of Panama hats, in 2022, I figured I should have one from its “Panama” namesake. The hats were misnamed because they were traded through Panama; they didn’t originate here. Still, a brown one was calling my name! 😂🤣🥹

El Cangrejo

After our long hot day, we returned to our condo for a cool-off in the pool. It was way too hot & humid in Panama for me!

Tuesday evening we wandered into El Cangrejo, stopping at a cute shop, M. Saldaña, which sells paintings and other merchandise created by artist Mario Saldaña. Here, I bought a journal and a print. I loved these colorful paintings.

We spent a mellow evening at Pedro Mandinga Rum Bar. The name Ron Pedro Mandinga pays homage to the legend of Pedro Mandinga, a 16th-century Panamanian runaway slave who symbolizes courage and collaboration. His alliance with Sir Francis Drake, showcasing Panama’s rich multicultural heritage, inspires the essence of its Panamanian rum brand.

Ron Pedro Mandinga Panamá was born with the vision of creating an exceptional Panamanian artisanal rum, committed to quality and tradition. Unlike other rums, Pedro Mandinga’s secret lies in the use of artisanal raspadura, the “ancestral sugar” of sugarcane, sourced from the owners’ family farm in the fertile volcanic soils of Boquete.

Amador Causeway

Wednesday, November 12: This morning we caught an Uber to Flamenco Island, the furthest point out on the Amador Causeway, a long and narrow man-made island extending out at the southernmost point of Panama City.

We had read it was a 2km walk to the BioMuseo, but it was actually 4km. We were soaked in sweat by the time we made it to the Biomuseo. We realized quickly that this wasn’t the best way to start our day, but nothing was to be done but to keep walking. We did enjoy views of the boats and the skyline of the city, but it really wasn’t worth doing anything but driving down it.

BioMuseo

The BioMuseo in Panama City was designed by the famous American architect Frank Gehry, his first and only design in Latin America. The design was conceived in 1999 and the museum opened on 2 October 2014. The museum is focused on the natural history of Panama and how it reshaped the entire world.

After our walk down the Amador Causeway, we explored the museum’s colorful galleries showcasing the biodiversity of Panama. Exhibits vary from audiovisuals & sculptures to an ocean gallery with multiple aquariums.

We learned that 70 million years ago, there was no isthmus that connected North and South America. Panama didn’t exist except as a number of underwater volcanoes 🌋 on the ocean floor. Once a land mass was formed above water this opened a corridor for a mass migrational interchange of animals from one continent to the other.

The Human Path, a space partially open to the outdoors, displays 16 columns providing information about human impact on the natural world.

The goal of the museum is to make visitors aware of their personal impact on biodiversity and to encourage them to protect and cherish it.

Mercado de Mariscos

We stopped at the Mercado de Mariscos, the seafood market, where we strolled through the market and then ate a lunch of sea bass and yucca fries.

El Cangrejo

Wednesday night was a fun night out at La Rana Dorada Beer Garden, associated with the Pedro Mandinga Rum Co, where we went Tuesday night. We enjoyed drinking craft beers, playing pool & eating pizza. I won by default because Mike scratched going for the 8 ball. 🎱 . We were extremely rusty at pool! Still. A good time was had by all.

We topped the evening off with some ice cream.

Miraflores Visitor Center & the Panama Canal

Thursday, November 13: Today, we made our way to the Miraflores Visitor Center to see the Panama Canal in action. We stood on the viewing platform with hundreds of other people vying for a spot at the front. It is said that about 30-40 ships go through here each day and we were lucky to see two, a container ship 🚢 and a cruise ship🛳️ . A special pilot from the Panama Authority boards each ship and pilots it through the locks. Only the pilot speaks, and is answered solely by boat horns.

The container ship moved slowly into the lock, pulled by tiny but powerful locomotives on the edges on the locks. Once the lock gates were closed, water filled the chamber, raising the huge ship to the next level, enabling it to leave the lock on the other side. Water rushed in and out of the locks solely by gravity; no pumps were used.

It was a fascinating yet slow-moving spectacle to watch. I wish they had a higher and longer viewing platform as it was difficult jostling with the crowds to get decent views.

The 45-minute IMAX film was a dramatic rendering of the canal’s history; the modern expansion in 2016 which doubled the capacity of the canal and increased the width and depth of the lanes and locks, allowing larger and more ships to pass; and the modern-day operation of the canal.

We had seen the Soo Locks in Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan in 2021, and that was amazing to see as well. I cannot comprehend how these engineering marvels are conceived and built as I don’t have that kind of mind. But it is an amazing thing to behold.

Panama Canal Murals at the Edificio de la Administración del Canal de Panama

The story of the monumental effort to build the Panama Canal is depicted in murals by notable artist William B Van Ingen of New York. The murals are mounted in the rotunda of the Panama Canal Administration Building. The paintings have the distinction of being the largest group of murals by an American artist on display outside the USA.

Museum of Contemporary Art of Panama (Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Panamá), or MAC Panama

The Museum of Contemporary Art of Panama (Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Panamá), popularly called MAC Panamá, is the only museum of contemporary art that exists in Panama. The institution was founded in 1962 as the Panamanian Institute of Art and in 1983 it became the current museum.

We watched a twenty-minute documentary of sorts called “Zone” by Simon Shim-Sutcliffe; “it reflects on how liquid infrastructure operates within the space of abandoned memory and the remnants of successive colonial empires. It offers a poetic and critical reflection on how water reshapes landscapes and histories, becoming a transformative agent of geography and collective memory,” according to the museum.

“Drawing on his family’s heritage as Chinese immigrants who worked on the Canal, Shim-Sutcliffe reflects on erased legacies and the reconstruction of forgotten images, demonstrating how fluid landscapes have been fundamental in guiding our collective fictions of progress. Zone uses archival material, aerial shots, 16mm film and digital, phone recordings, set design and collage to explore the political and cultural forces that have shaped the configuration of this contested site. Water in the work functions not only as a medium but as a character: an agent carving pathways through empires, trade, and memory.”

Another exhibit at MAC Panamá called “Musa” explored feminine universes and visions, interweaving, from diverse positions and perspectives, the specific identity of being a woman. Another brought together a series in which abstraction and formal experimentation articulated a space of spiritual inquiry where feminine subjectivity embraced the fantastic, the dreamlike, and the magical. Yet another brought together works that addressed the political memory and social critique of different historical moments.

lunch in Curundú

When we took an Uber to the neighborhood of Curundú in Panama City, the Uber driver was baffled as to why we were visiting the impoverished area.

The neighborhood is tucked in the heart of Panama City. In the very center of Curundú is the Estadio Juan Démostenes Arosemena, an imposing baseball stadium.

The neighborhood is a vibrant Afro-Panamanian community in one of the most racially and economically unequal countries of the world. It originated as a median between the United States Canal Zone and Panama City: informally planned, with a majority Black or Indigenous population, its culture is unique to its borders. Curundú has a tense relationship with the rest of Panama City and can’t shake off its stigma of poverty, racial stereotypes, and perceived crime.

We were in search of a restaurant called Peach Fuzz International, owned by Danny, the father of a woman, Tae, who has worked with Mike at LMI since 2014. We introduced ourselves to Danny, who seemed upbeat and excited that we had taken the time to visit and bring messages from his daughter, who he hasn’t seen in two years. He advised us to try the shrimp with garlic sauce, which he then painstakingly began to prepare.

Danny’s brother Bryce showed up and we met him. Then Danny’s cousin, Marlin and his wife Diana, who were visiting from LA, showed up with Diana’s mother from Puerto Rico. They all ordered food and Diana said the shrimp with garlic was her favorite. It turned out to be an old family and friends’ gathering. Diana & Bryce said they come once a year to Panama and always visit Danny when they come. It was definitely a cultural immersion in one of Panama’s struggling communities.

El Cangrejo

We spent the afternoon at the pool with Panama beers to cool off from our day out & about.

Celebrating our 37th anniversary at Marques

Our last night in Panama City happened to be our 37th anniversary (13 November), so we toasted our enduring marriage, the ups & downs, with wine & a special dinner out at Marques. I had catch of the day – sea bass fillet with pistachio crust, mussels in coconut milk with lemongrass, ying yang sauce, and blue curaçao. Mike got a Del Bosque: Risotto served with asparagus, mushrooms, and Parmesan with imported beef strips. We shared a brownie with ice cream for dessert. As we are early eaters, we had almost the entire restaurant to ourselves.

Leaving Panama City for Bocas del Toro via Panama Air at Albrook Gelabert Airport

Friday, November 14: This morning we made our way to Albrook Gelabert Airport, Panama City’s domestic airport, to take our 50 minute flight on Air Panama to Bocas del Toro. We waited around a lot; there was really no need to arrive 2 hours early. We found a huge puzzle on the wall showing the whole of Panama City.

Here is a video of our time in Panama City, including the slow-moving ships going through the Panama Canal.

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  • Alajuela
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  • Bijagua

the october cocktail hour: a trip to virginia, a NO KINGS protest, two birthday celebrations, & a cattle auction

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 October 31, 2025

October 31, 2025: Welcome to our October cocktail hour. Let’s have a Río Celeste Guaro, an icy blue drink that mirrors the blue waters of the Río Celeste in Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio. We can enjoy breezes and sunset views over Volcanoes Tenorio and Miravalles, and maybe we’ll be lucky to see or hear some of the 17 birds I’ve added to the Merlin app this month, including a Yellow-throated Toucan, Summer Tanager, Bananaquit, Piratic Flycatcher, Buff-throated Saltator, Scarlet-rumped Tanager, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Great Antshrike, Bright-rumped Attila, and Tody Motmot. We invite you to celebrate my 70th birthday with us at Celeste Mountain Lodge near Volcán Tenorio. You can even come along vicariously on our return home to Virginia for two weeks, go to the pumpkin patch with the family, celebrate our granddaughter’s second birthday, stroll through Meadowlark Botanical Gardens, and sip wines at a winery.

I have a variety of soda, seltzer water, or bebida de aloe for those of you who don’t drink. Mike can also whip up some excellent smoothies. Thanks for joining us in our escape into a peaceful corner of the world.

October marked our fifth month in Guanacaste, Costa Rica. It was in most ways a busy month and in some ways a laid-back, homebody-type month.

A two-week return to the US for Allie’s birthday & other business

We flew out of Guanacaste Airport in Liberia on the first of the month. Our friend Bruce drove us to the airport and there, we met Adam and his friend Jon, who happened to be flying on the same flight as us to Miami. Adam had called us the night before to tell us he was returning to the U.S. for a job, and we were all surprised he had happened to book on the same flight. What a nice alignment of the universe.

In Miami, Adam and Jon flew on to Washington State, and we flew onward to Reagan International in D.C., where we arrived close to midnight.

Family Affairs in Virginia

On Friday night, our daughter Sarah came up to our house from Richmond to spend the weekend with us. We were thrilled to have her. She always adds so much joy to every occasion.

Temple Hill Farm and Barnhouse Brewery

On Saturday, all of us went to Temple Hill Farm for a pumpkin patch, games, drinks, and hay rides. It was hotter than I would have liked, but we had a good time anyway.

After our time at the pumpkin patch, we went to Barnhouse Brewery for some craft beers.

Allie’s 2nd birthday

We celebrated Allie’s birthday on Sunday, October 5, with everyone in attendance, including Aunt Sarah and Great Aunt Barbara. Sarah and Alex made a delicious frittata based on Sydney’s “Omelette” from The Bear because Sarah knew I loved that Boursin cheese omelette topped with Sour Cream & Onion potato chips. They also made sausages, blueberry pancakes and mimosas. They brought out a cake with birthday wishes for Allie (2) and me (70 – although my birthday wasn’t until the 25th).

Allie got lots of gifts and was of course the center of attention in her little princess dress.

Meadowlark Botanical Gardens

On Sunday, October 12, Jandira had to work, so we went with Alex and Allie to Meadowlark Botanical Gardens. Allie got to climb on the gazebo and see the Korean statues, the bell tower, ponds and flowers. She especially loved the butterfly bench.

Babysitting Allie

Sunday night we babysat Allie while Alex and Jandira went out to dinner at Tsunami Sushi. We had fun listening and singing to songs, watching Bluey, eating dinner, and putting together gear puzzles and blocks.

Old Farm Winery at Hartland

On Monday, October 13, (Indigenous People’s Day), our last full day in the U.S., Jandira had the day off so we all went to Old Farm Winery in Hartland. We had pizza, pita chips and dip, a bottle of Viognier and a Cabernet Sauvignon. Allie had fun running around in her leopard print dress and “leather” jacket, a birthday gift from her Aunt Sarah.

Dining out in Virginia

We dined out while we were in Virginia, some new places as well as some old standbys. Our first night back, on October 2, we took the family to Bear Branch Tavern, where Allie was well behaved and we were warmed by a fire pit outdoors. On the night of the Hunter’s Moon, we met our friends Karen and Michael at Lantern House Kitchen & Bar, an Asian fusion place we’d never before tried. Mike and I went to one of our favorites, Mazadar in Fairfax, where we lounged on pillows and shared a bottle of wine.

Homebody stuff in Virginia

We had booked the tickets home at the same time we booked our tickets to Costa Rica, mainly to be home to celebrate our granddaughter Allie’s 2nd birthday. We spent a lot of time hanging out around the house with the family. Mike and I also had various doctor and dentist appointments, voted a straight Democratic ticket for governor of Virginia and other statewide offices, and got our COVID and flu shots. I had a haircut and pedicure and a couple of trigger point massages while I was there, and I had to see the dentist three times, once for mouth pain I was having, once for a cleaning, and once for a filling. I took some of my familiar walks in northern Virginia. Mike and I also accompanied Alex to Big Blue Swim School for Allie’s weekly swim lesson.

Returning to Costa Rica via Miami

On Tuesday the 14th, we got up at 2:30 a.m. to catch an Uber to Reagan National outside of D.C. for a 5:00 a.m. flight to Miami. After a 3-hour layover, we flew home to Costa Rica. Our trusty neighbor Bruce picked us up in our Mitsubishi at the Guanacaste Airport in Liberia at 11:45 Costa Rica time. After a 1 1/2 hour drive, we opened the house, which was like a greenhouse after being closed up for two weeks. As we waited for it to cool off, a huge thunderstorm let loose overhead and our power went out for about an hour.

We unpacked all the stuff we brought from Virginia, including over 30 books.

Dining out in Costa Rica

Upon arriving back in Costa Rica, we went to Soda El Nilo on a foggy night with birds in Tilarán making a cacophony of noise; there we learned of the famous Leche dormida (sleeping milk). Darrell and Farida invited us to their house for smoked chicken, corn, smashed potatoes and lots of Chilean wine which they generously shared from their recent trip to Argentina, Chile and Uruguay. One rainy day we went to Sodita El Mercado, a local Tico spot in a food court in Tilarán. After protesting at a NO KINGS protest in Nuevo Arenal, we went with Darrell, Farida, & Carol to Los Platillos Voladores (“Flying Saucers”), EatAlienFood, where we enjoyed pizzas, lasagna and ravioli. Mike and I had a lunch out at Soda Doña Chila in Trondaora.

On Thursday the 30th, we had what I would liken to a fall day in Virginia. My personal trainer Nela texted me a frozen grimacing face and we saw Costa Ricans wearing parkas. Meanwhile, I was still wearing shorts and it seemed the perfect day to me. We went partway around the lake to Café & Macadamia, a place we hadn’t visited since shortly after we arrived here in June. It was sunny and breezy and we enjoyed magnificent views over the lake. I got a tall lemonade with fresh basil that tasted a bit like pesto; Mike had a tamarind juice. I had a lasagna with chicken and white sauce while Mike had a special we’ve been looking forward to trying: Pastel de Yucca, or Yucca (Cassava) Shepherd’s Pie stuffed with beef and tomato sauce. It was a rather heavy lunch so when we returned home, I relaxed and read a book I was trying to finish by month-end: At Home in Mitford by Jan Karon.

A NO KINGS protest in Nuevo Arenal

I got a message the week we returned from someone in our yoga group about a NO KINGS protest being organized in Nuevo Arenal for Saturday morning, October 18 at 11:00. We let our friends Carol, Darrell and Farida know about it and told them we planned to go if they wanted to attend as well. Darrell and Carol came to our house first where we drew up some quick posters and then drove together to the meeting point at Tracy’s house. We got a bit lost so we were a little late for the largest of two gatherings, this one of about two dozen people. We all chanted “This is what democracy looks like!” Then we met a few others in front of the gymnasium in Nuevo Arenal where cars driving past could see our protest.

My 70th birthday celebration at Celeste Mountain Lodge & Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio

On my birthday weekend, October 24-26, we drove about 1 hour 45 minutes north to Bijagua, where we stayed at Celeste Mountain Lodge for two nights. Bijagua is near Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio 🌋, home to an inactive but huge volcano that covers much of the area north of Lago Arenal. 

We stopped just south of Upala at the Colibrí Organic Chocolate factory, PilHio, where owner Giovanni gave us a little tour of the factory after suiting us up in hair nets & brown shirts and having us leave behind our watches, bags and jewelry. He showed us where they ferment and dry the cacao beans, where they dehydrate pineapple and other flavors they add to the chocolate, and where they mix the chocolate, put it in molds and package it. 

While in that area, we ate a lunch in Upala at Bajo Mundo where I had the typical pescada de la plancha and Mike had Mexican tacos. We also had Imperial and Pilsen beers.

We arrived at the beautiful Celeste Mountain Lodge at around 2:30. The lodge’s decor revolves around an open-air concept, where guests feel the outdoors is enveloping them in a magical cocoon. Painted corrugated iron is used to great effect in decor and light fixtures. We had wonderful couples massages at 4:00.

Friday night we had drinks and dinner at Celeste Mountain Lodge, where once again the French chef outdid himself. We had a cold appetizer of Ceviche of Water Squash (chayote), a Tilapia filet with Lemon-Piperacia (wild bush) sauce, and Mike had Beef tenderloin Chimichuri. Mike had a blue dessert, Río Celeste: Lemon and ginger cream & Curaçao. The sleeping was good in our blue room with fall-like breezes wafting in through the window slats.

Saturday morning, we did a 3.7 mile hike that was partly strenuous due to steep climbs and descents and wet slippery rocks and mud. The rest of our hike at Rio Celeste, the blue river, took us to the blue pools, the bubbling sulfur pools, and bridges across the blue river.

Lunch at YeYe’s Restaurante brought a few treats. Mike mentioned to the owner Jorge that today was my birthday, and we were surprised when the family brought out a plantain desert with a candle and sang “Happy birthday” to me. 

We enjoyed a fabulous birthday dinner at the lodge. I sipped wine & Mike a Scotch while talking to the French owner Joel, who has been in Costa Rica for 18 years. He has a beautiful house on the hotel property as well as a house in San Jose where his Brazilian wife and daughter live. He’s from the Loire Valley but is also a Canadian citizen. We commiserated about the orange menace in the White House, and it was great to hear the Canadian perspective.

I ate Tilapia with dill sauce, accompanied by scalloped potatoes and a squash soufflé with caramelized onions. Mike had Chicken with a Passionfruit Sauce. The staff brought out a mousse fringed with flower petals and everyone in the restaurant sang a rousing “Happy Birthday.” The food at this restaurant is superb and is prepared in a spotless open kitchen by the long-time French chef there.

What a wonderful atmosphere in which to usher in my next decade.

Drives, walks and local explorations

We took a walk down Peninsula 1 one day, and another walk on the gravel roads behind the pickleball courts where we encountered some of the local animals.

Tilarán’s Friday Cattle Auction

Every Friday in Tilarán there is a cattle auction just outside of town called Subasta Ganadera Tilarán (Livestock Auction). On Friday (Halloween) we finally decided to go and see what it was about. When we arrived we strolled over the walkways to inspect the cattle and then shared a lunch and some beers. The whole affair was fascinating to watch; the cattle were pushed through a chute onto a stage/scale in front of the auctioneer, they were poked and prodded to make them turn to and fro like models on a runway, and then they were rushed off the stage through another chute where they were set aside for buyers to take home in their red, white and blue cattle trucks. The auctioneer spoke so fast, we couldn’t understand a word he was saying, but the identifying number, price, and the weight of each cow were displayed for the audience to see. Sitting in the audience, I was afraid to move in fear we might go home inadvertently with a whole herd of cattle. 🙂

Homebody stuff in Costa Rica

Once back in Costa Rica, I had my hair straightened. I know a different product was used, so I’m not sure about the longevity of the treatment, but time will tell. I also had an appointment with Dra. Jessica María Ugalde Rodriguez at Alma Wellness & Dental Care who couldn’t find a lesion in my mouth but gave me an order for a tomographia (tomography) to be done in Liberia, which I’ve scheduled for the first week in November.

On Monday the 27th, I met Nela, a personal trainer at Monster Gym, for an assessment of my health and physical well-being. She said I’m in great health and did better on the assessments than some of her younger clients. I had misunderstood the cost of her training, and when I found out how much she charges I was flabbergasted. I don’t know how long I’ll work with her, but I will at least do five days of training before we leave for Panama on November 9.

I finished 2 books in October, bringing my total to 38/48; this really puts me behind schedule to reach my goal. Of the two I read, I enjoyed the quirky novel by Jan Karon, At Home in Mitford. We watched one movie, Limpia (Swim to Me) which was just okay. We finished watching Toxic Town and Long Bright River, both of which we loved, as well as Togetherness and If Only. We finished a season of Fisk and Diary of a Ditched Girl. We continued watching Younger, Seinfeld, Platonic, Angela,Unforgotten, The Morning Show, The Diplomat, and Pernille. We also started the mini-series Adolescence, which is intense and addictive from the first moment.

Family Happenings from afar

The weekend of the 18th-19th, Mía got silver medals at a gymnastics competition in Managua. Andrea also won five gold medals! Adam had originally been hoping to return to Nicaragua for this event, but he was still in California working. He made it home to Ometepe on Friday the 24th.

The family in Virginia went to Flying Ace Distillery & Brewery in Lovettsville, VA. Mike and I have been to this place before and loved it; one time we took Alex with us. Both Alex and Jandira are struggling with shoulder pain so they almost didn’t go out, but when they forced themselves to go anyway, they had a marvelous time. Another day the family went to Meadowlark Botanical Gardens. We love when the family sends pictures. It brightens our days here considerably.

The Fall Bingo Card

I checked off quite a few things on my Fall Bingo Card in October. Some I checked off in Virginia, and some in Costa Rica. During our time in the U.S., I checked off the following:

  • Paint toenails coral
  • Take a scenic fall drive in Virginia (well, it wasn’t THAT scenic – too much traffic!)
  • Family time: Allie’s birthday, see Alex, Jandira and Sarah (& Mike’s sister Barbara)
  • Have two trigger point massages at Massage Therapy Works
  • Get 2026 calendar and bring back 2026 bullet journal

When we returned to Costa Rica, I checked off:

  • Try an open water swim in the lake. Now that I have a bright neon buoy to make myself visible to boats, new goggles and a swim cap, I feel much more comfortable swimming in the cove off Lake Arenal.
  • I didn’t have the NO KINGS protest on my Bingo Card, but I should have!
  • 70th birthday at Celeste Mountain Lodge, Río Celeste, and Massage
  • Put together one puzzle: “Hummingbirds”
  • Spa Day & Massage – I had two trigger point massages in the U.S. and Mike and I had couples massages at Celeste Mountain Lodge.
  • Make 2 bean soups: a black bean soup and a garbanzo & chorizo soup with spinach.
  • Find 10 new birds in Costa Rica on Merlin. Over the entire weekend, I added 17 new birds, as well as 2 on September 27. Some of the birds from Celeste Mountain Lodge and Río Celeste included: Yellow-throated Toucan, Summer Tanager, Bananaquit, Piratic Flycatcher, Buff-throated Saltator, Scarlet-rumped Tanager, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Great Antshrike, Bright-rumped Attila, and Tody Motmot. I love the names of these tropical birds! We heard most of these from our corner room at Celeste Mountain Lodge.
  • Cattle auction Friday (10/31)
  • Wearing one of my cowboy t-shirts (of which I have 11 + a cowboy scarf!)
  • I read 4/13 books.
My Fall Bingo Card as of 10/31/25

Completing our 1,000 piece “Hummingbirds” puzzle was an accomplishment – and quite addictive!

On my Costa Rica blog, you can find my weekly recaps of our lives in Costa Rica for the month of October:

  • a return to virginia to see family & a granddaughter’s 2nd birthday {week 18/52}
  • a week in virginia: a swim lesson, family time, meeting friends & taking care of business {week 19/52}
  • a winery visit, returning to costa rica after two weeks in the u.s., dinner with friends & a NO KINGS protest {week 20/52}
  • celebrating my 70th birthday near volcán tenorio (& a hair straightening & dentist appointment) {week 21/52}
*********

I hope you’ll share how the year is panning out for you, and what plans you have for the fall and the rest of this year.

How did your October go? Did you have any special family gatherings? Have you welcomed any new additions to your family?  Did you celebrate any birthdays or anniversaries? Have you read any good books that can inform your worldview, seen any good movies, binge-watched any television series? Have you planned any adventures or had any autumn getaways? Have you dreamed any dreams? Have you gone to any exotic restaurants, cooked any new dishes? Have you been surprised by anything in life? Have you marked off activities on your Fall Bingo card? Did you get spooky on Halloween? Have you played new games or put together puzzles? Have you made any new friends? Have you learned anything new, taken any classes or just kept up with the news? Have you sung along with any new songs? Have you undertaken any new exercise routines? Have you marched or otherwise participated in political protests? Have you been battered, or alternately, uplifted by any news?

Please share your October with me by giving me the plot below, or a link to a post in your blog that tells about your month.

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  • Central America
  • Cocktail Hour
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the september cocktail hour: a nicoya peninsula getaway, a horseback ride to la piedra del indio waterfalls & a fall bingo card

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 September 30, 2025

September 30, 2025: Welcome to our September cocktail hour. Let’s have a Trinidad Sour (whiskey and almond syrup), a delicious drink we shared on the Nicoya Peninsula. You can join us vicariously on our getaway to Sámara and Nosara on the Nicoya Peninsula. We can enjoy breezes and sunset views, and maybe we can take a walk on a pebbly beach. Better yet, you can come along on our horseback ride to La Piedra del Indio Waterfalls and take a dip in the refreshing pool at the bottom. Sunset is is now at around 5:30 every night; twilight brings with it lots of mosquitoes, so be sure to slather on the mosquito repellent.

I have a variety of soda, seltzer water, or bebida de aloe for those of you who don’t drink. Mike can also whip up some excellent smoothies with pitaya, strawberries, bananas or any other fruit we have on hand. Thanks for joining us in our escape into a peaceful corner of the world.

September marked our fourth month in Guanacaste, Costa Rica. It was in some ways a busy month and in other ways a laid-back, homebody-type month. We had a getaway to the Nicoya Peninsula, one of five “Blue Zones” in the world where people often live active lives to over 100. We also took an amazing horseback ride to La Piedra del Indio Waterfalls. We have also been preparing to go to the U.S. for two weeks beginning October 1.

Dining out

We dined out at more new places as well as some old standbys this month. We tried out Marisquería Lago Arenal, which specializes in seafood, for lunch. We enjoyed snacks and amazing views of the lake at Chicharronera one sunny afternoon. We met Darrell and Farida on Friday night the 5th at an old standby, Restaurante Brisas del Lago, where we enjoyed wine and delicious seafood and chicken. This would be the last time we’d see them until mid-October because they were taking off for a 3-week trip to Argentina, Chile and Uruguay; they would return home on October 1, the day we would leave for 2 weeks in the U.S. Mike and I also tried out Chafi’s Restaurante, another seafood place, on Sunday the 7th. When we returned from Sámara, we went to Café con Amor, Jackie Ruíz’s café, for a pop-up craft market and live marimba music to celebrate the beginning of Costa Rican Independence Day. Later that evening, we went to Tilatacos to eat before going to check out the ‘faroles’ parade: homemade lanterns symbolizing the original freedom torch. We went to our first Chinese restaurant, Restaurante El Lago, which was a mediocre experience. On the other hand, we enjoyed a lovely dinner with our friend Carol at Restaurante Brisas del Lago, where we talked about her deceased husband Carlos as well as her new responsibilities as a cattle rancher with 83 head of breeding cattle. We tried out a German place, Hotel La Rana (frog) de Arenal Restaurante, where the German owner showed us 30+ year old photos of him with Collared Acaris, toucans with a special serrated design on their beaks. We enjoyed a breezy and chill night at Paseo del Viento where we had fancy drinks from DrinKing and sushi from Wabi Sabi Sushi while enjoying Spanish conversations and a beautiful sunset. Finally, we went to El Corral Restaurante BBQ in Aguacate for a tuna special with caper sauce. There we met a group of Americans who invited us to join them on Thursday mornings for breakfast at El Corral. Finally, we took our friend Bruce out to dinner at La Pasadita to repay him in advance for taking us to the airport on October 1 and picking us up on the 14th.

A getaway to the Nicoya Peninsula

From September 9-12, we drove about 2 1/2 hours to the Nicoya Peninsula, supposedly one of five “blue zones” on the planet. A blue zone is a region in the world where people are claimed to have exceptionally long lives beyond the age of 100 due to a lifestyle combining physical activity, low stress, rich social interactions, a local whole foods diet, and low disease incidence. 

Suggested blue zones include Okinawa, Japan; Sardinia, Italy; the Nicoya Peninsula in Costa Rica; Loma Linda, California; and Ikaria, Greece. A book by National Geographic Fellow and explorer Dan Buettner, The Blue Zones: Secrets for Living Longer, explores this concept more fully.

The two places we visited on the Nicoya Peninsula, Sámara and Nosara, are in the northern part of the peninsula, in Guanacaste. We enjoyed the Hotel Bahia Beach Front, which had a fantastic happy hour and a great sunset vibe, although it faced south and didn’t offer a real sunset view; it sat in front of a pebbly beach with not much to offer in the way of comfort.

The things we liked best about this place were the nightly beachfront happy hours, an early morning walk on the beach at low tide showcasing spectacular cloud reflections, and the visit to Nosara, where I got to do some shopping and we enjoyed a Mediterranean lunch at Restaurante La Luna. We also loved our Italian dinner at Ahora Sí!

a horseback ride to la piedra del indio waterfalls

Thursday morning the 25th, we finally did something we’ve talked about doing for a long time. We drove about 35 minutes south, through Tilarán and beyond (towards Monteverde) to La Piedra del Indio Waterfalls (“the Indian stone waterfalls”) where we had booked a horseback ride to the waterfalls trailhead. Our guide Alejandro got us mounted up and we began our ride first down paved and then gravel roads to the trailhead for the waterfalls. After hiking to the bottom, we cooled off in a refreshing pool and then made our way back up, where we mounted our horses again and returned on a different route over mountains ridges with stunning views of the countryside. Exhausted from the 4-hour excursion, we enjoyed lunch at the little on-site restaurant.

Drives, walks and local explorations

On Saturday the 6th, we took a new walk starting at the top of San Luis by the pickleball courts and up a gravel road to a ridge with amazing vistas.

We took a walk on Thursday the 18th up to the cross at Parque del Viento just outside of Tilaran. We had been up there by car before, but this was the first time we walked it. We saw the windmill blade on which Liz, a Costa Rican woman who sells goat milk yogurt and cheeses to us weekly, painted the murals.

On Sunday the 21st, we also took our 4-mile loop walk from our house to Tronadora and back. On Saturday the 27th, we walked up the gravel road above the pickleball courts in San Luis again for more amazing views.

Costa Rican Independence Day

Costa Rica’s Independence Day, which fell on Monday, September 15th, commemorates the independence of the entirety of Central America from Spain, which took place in 1821. Independence Day festivities began on Sunday the 14th, with the reenactment of the notification of Costa Rica’s liberation by relay teams carrying the “freedom torch.”  One of the traditions on the night before Independence Day is a parade of faroles, homemade lanterns symbolizing the original freedom torch. We didn’t participate in any of the actual Independence Day celebrations.

Finishing up the Summer Bingo Card and beginning the Fall Bingo Card

I wrapped up my Summer Bingo Card with only two things undone: “boat ride on the lake” and “tubing on a river.” I was also one book short on reading 12 books. Everything else was checked off. I definitely got several Bingos!

I created my Fall Bingo Card (September 22-December 20); it’s full of all kinds of plans! Some include going home to Virginia for two weeks and seeing the family, celebrating my 70th birthday at Celeste Mountain Lodge, going to Panama (Panama City and Bocas del Toro) in November, attending a cattle auction, putting together at least 2 of the 4 puzzles we bought, moving into our new home at Lake Arenal Condos, making lots of bean soups and root vegetable recipes, and exploring some towns in Costa Rica’s Central Valley as well as Poás Volcano and surrounding waterfalls. The items that will push me out of my comfort zone are “snorkeling in Bocas del Toro” (I don’t enjoy swimming in the ocean with sea creatures) and “try an open water swim in the lake” (Mike and I have ordered some neon swim buoys which I hope will make me more comfortable as I’ll be more visible to boats). The Bingo Card also includes planning my goals for 2026, one of my favorite things to do. Dreaming is my strong suit for sure! 🙂

I already checked off “Go Horseback Riding” on September 25. And we started our 1,000 piece “Hummingbirds” puzzle (rompecabezas in Spanish).

Birds, flora & other Costa Rican wildlife

I was able to catch a shot of a Montezuma Oropendola early in the month. The trees have more leaves on them now, making it difficult to capture the birds in photos. We spotted a Crested Guan, a very large, long-tailed game bird of tropical and subtropical forest. The plumage is dark overall (often looks blackish) with a bright red throat wattle; white streaking is visible at closer range. The crest is bushy and usually not a striking feature. We found another of the family of green lizards that live under our walkway.

The last week of September we found a new bird, a Bare-throated Tiger-Heron. We saw a pair of them making grunting noises up in the tree outside our house but our Merlin app wasn’t picking up the sound. I was able to get some photos and Merlin identified the birds from the photo. They kept us entertained for a long time on Saturday morning.

Homebody stuff

Early in the month, we had mostly rainy days, but the latter half of the month has been hot! We did enjoy a couple of pool days. We finally took some pictures of our favorite vegetable market in Tilarán, Hortifress.

On Friday, we met with the property manager, Carla, at Lake Arenal Condos to make sure things are done to our specifications in the condo we’ll be renting beginning November 29. We also enjoyed some beautiful sunsets.

I finished 5 books in September, bringing my total to 36/48. I especially enjoyed What We Owe by Golnaz Hashemzadeh Bonde. We watched four movies: a Mexican family drama called Familia; The Unforgivable starring Sandra Bullock; a mediocre Turkish movie called Sen Büyümeye Bak (In Good Hands 2); and French Lover, starring Omar Sy, that we really enjoyed. We started watching a couple of new series: Toxic Town and Diary of a Ditched Girl (Halva Malmö består av killar som dumpat mig). We continued watching Younger, Seinfeld, Togetherness, Platonic, Fisk, If Only, The Morning Show (S4), and Pernille. We finished watching Maid (depressing yet fabulous!), Territory, and Hostage.

Family Affairs

In Ometepe, Adam has been busy clearing the land for his cows and planting grass. He also built a gate to put up at the entrance to his property. Besides, they always have various family activities going on. We can’t wait to see them again in January.

On Sunday the 14th, Alex, Jandira and Allie went to Richmond to visit our daughter Sarah. Together with some of Sarah’s friends, they all went to a Flying Squirrels baseball game, the last one to be played at The Diamond in Richmond. Future games will be played at CarMax Park. Sadly the Flying Squirrels lost 5-2 to the Hartford Yard Goats, but that didn’t dampen the family’s enthusiasm for the event.

You can find my weekly recaps of our lives in Costa Rica for the month of September on my Costa Rica blog:

  • expanding our dining experiences, a new walk & giving notice of our move to a new place {week 14/52}
  • in search of longevity: exploring the nicoya peninsula & other random stuff {week 15/52}
  • costa rican independence day & checking out our new home-to-be {week 16/52}
  • the fall bingo card: a “hummingbirds” puzzle, spanish practice & a horseback ride to a waterfall {week 17/52}
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I hope you’ll share how the year is panning out for you, and what plans you have for the fall and the rest of this year.

How did your September go? Did you have any special family gatherings? Have you welcomed any new additions to your family?  Did you celebrate any birthdays or anniversaries? Have you read any good books that can inform your worldview, seen any good movies, binge-watched any television series? Have you planned any adventures or had any shoulder season getaways? Have you dreamed any dreams? Have you gone to any exotic restaurants, cooked any new dishes? Have you been surprised by anything in life? Have you marked off activities on your Summer Bingo card? Have you created a Fall Bingo Card? Have you made any new friends? Have you had any end-of-the-summer-season getaways? Have you learned anything new, taken any classes or just kept up with the news? Have you sung along with any new songs? Have you undertaken any new exercise routines? Have you marched or otherwise participated in political protests? Have you been battered, or alternately, uplifted by any news?

Please share your September with me by giving me the plot below, or a link to a post in your blog that tells about your month.

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  • Alajuela
  • Cañas
  • Central America

the august cocktail hour: local gatherings, la fortuna adventures, & a “desfile de caballistas” 

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 September 1, 2025

August 31, 2025: Welcome to our August cocktail hour. Let’s have a piña colada and pretend we’re drinking it on a rooftop. We can enjoy breezes and sunset views, and maybe we’ll be lucky enough to see Keel-billed Toucans and Red-lored Parrots. You can even come along vicariously on our getaway to La Fortuna near Volcán Arenal. Sunset is is now at around 5:30 every night; twilight brings with it lots of mosquitoes, so be sure to slather on the mosquito repellent.

I have a variety of soda, seltzer water, or bebida de aloe for those of you who don’t drink. Mike can also whip up some excellent smoothies. Thanks for joining us in our escape into a peaceful corner of the world.

August marked our third month in Guanacaste, Costa Rica. It was in some ways a busy month and in other ways a laid-back, homebody-type month.

Our last day in Tamarindo

We left Tamarindo on the 1st of August after taking an early morning walk on the beach. On our way home, we stopped at Panamar for seafood.

Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
BOHO Tamarindo
BOHO Tamarindo

Dining out with a few musical interludes

This month we tried out more local restaurants. We ate pizza at Gutierrez Family Pizzeria Express and enjoyed Taco Tuesday at Lake Arenal Brewery while being serenaded by Charly Lopez from Uruguay. We went to the dilapidated-looking Equus for fish fingers and BBQ pork on the 8th. We sampled sushi at Wabi Sabi Sushi on the 9th and ate lunch at Hacienda La Pacifica Eco-Lodge on the 12th after visiting the Puma Sanctuary. Anne and Jack rewarded us for our time, after we spent two-hours witnessing their will-signing in Nuevo Arenal, by treating us to lunch at Restaurante Tinajas on the 14th. On Dia de las Madres (Assumption Day/Mother’s Day), we went with Anne and Jack to a Cuban event at Lake Arenal Brewery with Olsen del Toro singing and his mother cooking Cuban food for a tasting menu. We had a lunch out at Soda La Macha in Rio Piedras and enjoyed dinner and drinks with our friend Carol, who lost her husband Carlos at the end of July, at Plaza Paseo de Viento. We had dinner with our friend from the gym, Darrell and his wife Farida at Restaurante Linda Vista, and the next day, Mike and I enjoyed cocktails on the rooftop at Paseo del Viento while watching a thunderstorm move in. We also enjoyed a dinner at Vento Bistro before attending the last event, a dancing activity, of the Celebramos 102 Años de Cantonato (de Tilarán) del 21-31 Agosto 2025. 

me at Gutierrez Family Pizzeria Express
me at Gutierrez Family Pizzeria Express
Mike at Gutierrez Family Pizzeria Express
Mike at Gutierrez Family Pizzeria Express
Gutierrez Family Pizzeria Express
Gutierrez Family Pizzeria Express
Gutierrez Family Pizzeria Express
Gutierrez Family Pizzeria Express
Taco Tuesday at Lake Arenal Brewery with Charly Lopez from Uruguay
Taco Tuesday at Lake Arenal Brewery with Charly Lopez from Uruguay
Taco Tuesday at Lake Arenal Brewery with Charly Lopez from Uruguay
Taco Tuesday at Lake Arenal Brewery with Charly Lopez from Uruguay
Anne & Jack at Taco Tuesday
Anne & Jack at Taco Tuesday
Lunch at Equus
Lunch at Equus
Lunch at Equus
Lunch at Equus
Lunch at Equus
Lunch at Equus
Restaurante Tinajas
Restaurante Tinajas
Jack, Nixon, me and Anne at Restaurante Tinajas
Jack, Nixon, me and Anne at Restaurante Tinajas
Anne and Jack at Restaurante Tinajas
Anne and Jack at Restaurante Tinajas
mural at Restaurante Tinajas
mural at Restaurante Tinajas
Cuban night at Lake Arenal Brewery with Olsen del Toro and his mother
Cuban night at Lake Arenal Brewery with Olsen del Toro and his mother
Anne & Jack at Lake Arenal Brewery
Anne & Jack at Lake Arenal Brewery
Mike at Lake Arenal Brewery
Mike at Lake Arenal Brewery
me with Anne at Lake Arenal Brewery
me with Anne at Lake Arenal Brewery
Plaza Paseo del Viento
Plaza Paseo del Viento
Carol and Mike atPaseo del Viento
Carol and Mike atPaseo del Viento
Carol and me at Paseo del Viento
Carol and me at Paseo del Viento
me at Soda La Macha
me at Soda La Macha
Mike at Soda La Macha
Mike at Soda La Macha
me at Soda La Macha
me at Soda La Macha
Darrell & Farida at Restaurante Linda Vista
Darrell & Farida at Restaurante Linda Vista
comida typica at Restaurante Linda Vista
comida typica at Restaurante Linda Vista
me, Darrell, Farida and Mike at Restaurante Linda Vista
me, Darrell, Farida and Mike at Restaurante Linda Vista
me with daiquiri at Paseo del Viento
me with daiquiri at Paseo del Viento
drinks at Paseo del Viento
drinks at Paseo del Viento
Mike at Paseo del Viento
Mike at Paseo del Viento
Mike at Vento Bistro
Mike at Vento Bistro
Me at Vento Bistro
Me at Vento Bistro
view of Tilarán's city park from Vento Bistro
view of Tilarán’s city park from Vento Bistro

Drives, walks and local explorations

We drove on a gravel road to El Silencio, where we found some amazing views. We continued our walks around Tronadora: the gravel road to Santiago’s pitaya farm, two attempts to walk on Peninsula 2, and one walk on Peninsula 1, and the 4-mile loop from our door to Tronadora and back.

walk up gravel road from Tronadora to Santiago's pitaya farm
walk up gravel road from Tronadora to Santiago’s pitaya farm
walk up gravel road from Tronadora to Santiago's pitaya farm
walk up gravel road from Tronadora to Santiago’s pitaya farm
Santiago's pitaya farm
Santiago’s pitaya farm
walk up gravel road from Tronadora to Santiago's pitaya farm
walk up gravel road from Tronadora to Santiago’s pitaya farm
Drive to El Silencio
Drive to El Silencio
Drive to El Silencio
Drive to El Silencio
Drive to El Silencio
Drive to El Silencio
first attempt to walk on Peninsula 2
first attempt to walk on Peninsula 2
first attempt to walk on Peninsula 2
first attempt to walk on Peninsula 2
first attempt to walk on Peninsula 2
first attempt to walk on Peninsula 2
Walk on Peninsula 1 in Tronadora
Walk on Peninsula 1 in Tronadora
Walk on Peninsula 1 in Tronadora - sighting of Volcán Arenal
Walk on Peninsula 1 in Tronadora – sighting of Volcán Arenal
Walk on Peninsula 1 in Tronadora
Walk on Peninsula 1 in Tronadora
Walk on Peninsula 1 in Tronadora
Walk on Peninsula 1 in Tronadora
a horseman & 2 horses in San Luis
a horseman & 2 horses in San Luis
view from our 4 mile loop in Tronadora
view from our 4 mile loop in Tronadora
horse on Peninsula 1
horse on Peninsula 1
horses on Peninsula 1
horses on Peninsula 1
Walk around Tronadora
Walk around Tronadora

Four days/three nights in La Fortuna

On Tuesday (8/19) through Friday (August 22) we took a trip to La Fortuna, the area around Volcán Arenal at the east end of Lake Arenal. We explored new places, activities and experiences that made this one of our best weeks in Costa Rica so far. We enjoyed upscale thermal springs from Volcán Arenal at Baldi Hot Springs; went whitewater rafting on the Class III-IV Río Sarapiqui; descended 517 steps to the Catarata Río Fortuna and swam in the surrounding pools; hiked a boring trail at Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal; enjoyed a mediocre massage at Spa Luz de Luna; and visited Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park in the rainforest of La Fortuna. We really enjoyed our trip to this area.

Café con Amor in Nuevo Arenal
Café con Amor in Nuevo Arenal
me, Jackie Ruíz and Mike at Café con Amor
me, Jackie Ruíz and Mike at Café con Amor
me at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
me at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
Mike at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
Mike at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
Mike at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
Mike at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
me at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
me at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
Mike doing tree pose at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
Mike doing tree pose at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
view of Volcán Arenal from Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
view of Volcán Arenal from Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
sauna at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
sauna at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
tropical plants at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
tropical plants at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
Spicy Sloth and Green Gin at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
Spicy Sloth and Green Gin at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
Yellow Tree Suites
Yellow Tree Suites
Sunny's Indian in La Fortuna
Sunny’s Indian in La Fortuna
Sunny's Indian in La Fortuna
Sunny’s Indian in La Fortuna
Mike & me on our whitewater rafting trip
Mike & me on our whitewater rafting trip
whitewater rafting on the Río Sarapiqui
whitewater rafting on the Río Sarapiqui
whitewater rafting on the Río Sarapiqui
whitewater rafting on the Río Sarapiqui
whitewater rafting on the Río Sarapiqui
whitewater rafting on the Río Sarapiqui
Me with Mike at our break on the whitewater rafting trip
Me with Mike at our break on the whitewater rafting trip
Mike jumps into the Río Sarapiqui
Mike jumps into the Río Sarapiqui
Me, Mike, Carlos and Monica from Madrid on our whitewater rafting trip
Me, Mike, Carlos and Monica from Madrid on our whitewater rafting trip
view of Volcán Arenal from Yellow Tree Suites
view of Volcán Arenal from Yellow Tree Suites
me at Catarata Río Fortuna
me at Catarata Río Fortuna
Mike at Catarata Río Fortuna
Mike at Catarata Río Fortuna
Catarata Río Fortuna
Catarata Río Fortuna
me at Catarata Río Fortuna
me at Catarata Río Fortuna
me at Catarata Río Fortuna
me at Catarata Río Fortuna
Catarata Río Fortuna
Catarata Río Fortuna
me on hike at Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal
me on hike at Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal
Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal
Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal
Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal
Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal
church in La Fortuna
church in La Fortuna
Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Turquoise-browed Motmot at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Turquoise-browed Motmot at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mike at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mike at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mike at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mike at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Me and Mike at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Me and Mike at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mike at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mike at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mike at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mike at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
me and Mike at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
me and Mike at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mike at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mike at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
me at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
me at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
view of Volcán Arenal from Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
view of Volcán Arenal from Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
looking at the dam from Mistico
looking at the dam from Mistico

Desfile de Caballistas (Parade of Horsemen)

Once we returned home, we enjoyed one event of many that comprise the Celebramos 102 Años de Cantonato del 21-31 Agosto 2025: the Desfile de Caballistas (Parade of Horsemen). Before that event, we ate at Iván’s restaurant, Tilatacos. Iván has become Mike’s swimming buddy in the lake for the last several weeks; because Iván is new to open-water swimming, he appreciates Mike’s advice and companionship.

On the last day of the month, we went to the final event of the Celebration: Gran Actividad Bailable de Cierre en el Parque Flaqué Montull (Great Closing Dance Activity in Domino Flaqué Montull Park). It wasn’t all that thrilling, probably because we were there too early.

me with Mike at Tilatacos
me with Mike at Tilatacos
Mike and fellow swimmer Iván (owner of Tilatacos
Mike and fellow swimmer Iván (owner of Tilatacos
Desfile de Caballistas (Parade of Horsemen) in Tilarán
Desfile de Caballistas (Parade of Horsemen) in Tilarán
Desfile de Caballistas (Parade of Horsemen) in Tilarán
Desfile de Caballistas (Parade of Horsemen) in Tilarán
me at Desfile de Caballistas (Parade of Horsemen) in Tilarán
me at Desfile de Caballistas (Parade of Horsemen) in Tilarán
Desfile de Caballistas (Parade of Horsemen) in Tilarán
Desfile de Caballistas (Parade of Horsemen) in Tilarán
Desfile de Caballistas (Parade of Horsemen) in Tilarán
Desfile de Caballistas (Parade of Horsemen) in Tilarán
Gran Actividad Bailable de Cierre en el Parque Flaqué Montull (Great Closing Dance Activity in Domino Flaqué Montull Park)
Gran Actividad Bailable de Cierre en el Parque Flaqué Montull (Great Closing Dance Activity in Domino Flaqué Montull Park)

My Summer Bingo Card

I checked off a lot of items on my Summer Bingo Card in August. It’s a good thing since summer ends on September 21. I put smiley faces on the following:

  1. Beach time (Tamarindo)
  2. Taco Tuesdays (1 x)
  3. Kayak in the lake
  4. Have a pool day (numerous times)
  5. Make corn soup with shrimp
  6. Family time (Alex, Jandira & Allie – FaceTime)
  7. Frozen drink – piña colada – on rooftop at Plaza Paseo del Viento (2x)
  8. Paddleboard in lake (2x)
  9. Swim in the lake (2x)
  10. Visit Centro de Rescate y Santuario Las Pumas in Cañas
  11. Eat seasonal fruit (added passionfruit – maracuyá)
  12. Pedicure (white semi-permanent) 1x
  13. La Fortuna (see above for photos)
    1. Spa Day (Baldi Hot Springs)
    2. Whitewater raft (on the Río Sarapiqui)
    3. Hike a volcano (Volcán Arenal)
    4. Visit a National Park (Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal)
    5. Visit a waterfall and swim in it – Catarata Río Fortuna
    6. Have a massage (Spa Luz de Luna)
    7. Rain Forest Visit (La Fortuna) – Mistico Hanging Bridges
  14. Finished 6 books (3 in August)

ready to kayak on the lake
ready to kayak on the lake
kayaking on Lake Arenal
kayaking on Lake Arenal
kayaking on Lake Arenal
kayaking on Lake Arenal
kayaking on Lake Arenal
kayaking on Lake Arenal
kayaking on Lake Arenal
kayaking on Lake Arenal
pool day
pool day
pool day
pool day
pool day
pool day
Frozen drinks on the rooftop at Plaza Paseo del Viento
Frozen drinks on the rooftop at Plaza Paseo del Viento
cerveza and. Piña colada
cerveza and. Piña colada
me with my frozen drink on the rooftop
me with my frozen drink on the rooftop
paddle boarding on the lake
paddle boarding on the lake
Mike paddle boarding on the lake
Mike paddle boarding on the lake
me paddle boarding on the lake
me paddle boarding on the lake
Santuario Las Pumas in Cañas
Santuario Las Pumas in Cañas
Santuario Las Pumas in Cañas
Santuario Las Pumas in Cañas
Santuario Las Pumas in Cañas
Santuario Las Pumas in Cañas
Santuario Las Pumas in Cañas
Santuario Las Pumas in Cañas
Santuario Las Pumas in Cañas
Santuario Las Pumas in Cañas
pool day
pool day
on the way to the lake for paddle boarding
on the way to the lake for paddle boarding
getting ready to paddleboard
getting ready to paddleboard
paddleboarding on the lake
paddleboarding on the lake
me paddle boarding again
me paddle boarding again
Mike paddle boarding
Mike paddle boarding
my Summer Bingo Card as of 8/31
my Summer Bingo Card as of 8/31
my Summer Bingo Card as of 8/31
my Summer Bingo Card as of 8/31

Identifying birds & flora

We saw Keel-billed Toucans in our tree outside our house two times this month, plus we saw them in captivity at Centro de Rescate y Santuario Las Pumas in Cañas. We have both downloaded the Merlin app to help us identify all the birds that wake us up each morning. So far I have a Life List of 34 species. We’ve had several visits by Keel-billed Toucans, and regulars here at our house include Great-tailed Grackles, House Wrens, Red-lored Parrots, and Cabinis’s Wrens. One morning a flock of Orange-chinned Parakeets descended on the trees surrounding our house. Birdsong is ever-present in our days, except on days when it’s raining.

At Anne’s suggestion, I downloaded “seek by iNaturalist” but I haven’t found it to work for me.

Keel-billed Toucans in our tree
Keel-billed Toucans in our tree
Keel-billed Toucan in our tree
Keel-billed Toucan in our tree
Keel-billed Toucan in our tree
Keel-billed Toucan in our tree
Keel-billed Toucan in our tree
Keel-billed Toucan in our tree
pretty tropical flower
pretty tropical flower
a tree I tried to identify but couldn't
a tree I tried to identify but couldn’t
Toucans seen August 27
Toucans seen August 27
Toucans seen August 27
Toucans seen August 27
Toucans seen August 27
Toucans seen August 27
Toucans seen August 27
Toucans seen August 27
Orange-chinned parakeets
Orange-chinned parakeets

ExperiencingVeranillo in August

Apparently July to August is considered the “little high season” (also known as veranillo or “little summer”) with pleasant weather with minimal rain, moderate crowds and lower prices. We enjoyed an overall less rainy month in Costa Rica than we did our first two months. People say October and November are the rainiest months.

Family happenings

Allie and Jandira arrived safely home from their month-long trip to Angola on August 6. Jandira got a new job as Assistant Manager at a jewelry store close to our house in Oakton, and Allie started going to a new daycare. She also continued taking swim lessons.

In Nicaragua, Cristy bought nail polishes and nail tools so she can practice doing people’s nails.Later, Cristy got her certificate of Manicure & Pedicure for the course she completed.

Allie at the Lisbon airport
Allie at the Lisbon airport
Allie at the Lisbon airport
Allie at the Lisbon airport
Allie, Alex and Jandira - reunited after the girls were in Angola for a month
Allie, Alex and Jandira – reunited after the girls were in Angola for a month
Allie at daycare
Allie at daycare
Allie at daycare
Allie at daycare
Allie taking swim lessons
Allie taking swim lessons
Allie at our house
Allie at our house
Cristy with her nail polish supplies
Cristy with her nail polish supplies
Cristy gets her certificate of completion for Manicure and Pedicure
Cristy gets her certificate of completion for Manicure and Pedicure

Homebody stuff

We continued our three times per week workouts at Monster Gym and our Wednesday yoga sessions at Living Forest Yoga. We also run errands for food and day-to-day needs. We cook in quite frequently, trying to limit our dinners/lunches out only to 3x/week. I had a hair hydrating session at the end of August, as well as a pedicure.

Mike leaving Living Forest after yoga
Mike leaving Living Forest after yoga
verduras & frutas in Aguacate
verduras & frutas in Aguacate
tilapia and zucchini meal we made
tilapia and zucchini meal we made
sunset from our house
sunset from our house
the front of our house
the front of our house
pedicure at S.O.S. Beauty Salon
pedicure at S.O.S. Beauty Salon
pedicure at S.O.S. Beauty Salon
pedicure at S.O.S. Beauty Salon
beautiful sunset
beautiful sunset
beautiful sunset
beautiful sunset

I finished 3 books in August, bringing my total to 31/48. I especially enjoyed Out Stealing Horses by Per Petterson. We watched three movies: The Penguin Lessons (Argentina), My Oxford Year, and Fall for Me (Mallorca), all of which we enjoyed. We started watching a couple of new series: Territory, Asura no Gotoku, If Only (Si lo hubiera sabido), and Platonic. We finished watching North of North, Tuiskoms, Letters from the Past (Gelecege Mektuplar), and The Survivors (excellent!). We continued watching Younger, Seinfeld, Togetherness, and Pernille. This month we made a decision to stop watching Severance: it’s just too bizarre and not our thing.

On my Costa Rica blog, you can find my weekly recaps of our lives in Costa Rica for the month of August:

  • a mini-getaway to tamarindo {week 9/52}
  • a week of summer bingo card achievements 🙂 {week 10/52}
  • a visit to an animal sanctuary, friend excursions & a cuban-style costa rican mother’s day {week 11/52}
  • a trip to la fortuna & volcán arenal – hot springs, whitewater rafting, waterfalls, national parks & hanging bridges – & a “desfile de caballistas” in tilarán {week 12/52}
  • a rather humdrum week: hair hydration & a pedicure, comida typica & new friends {week 13/52}
*********

I hope you’ll share how the year is panning out for you, and what plans you have for the summer and the rest of this year.

How did your August go? Did you have any special family gatherings? Have you welcomed any new additions to your family?  Did you celebrate any birthdays or anniversaries? Have you read any good books that can inform your worldview, seen any good movies, binge-watched any television series? Have you planned any adventures or had any summer getaways? Have you dreamed any dreams? Have you gone to any exotic restaurants, cooked any new dishes? Have you been surprised by anything in life? Have you marked off activities on your Summer Bingo card? Have you tried out any new water sports like kayaking, paddle boarding, white water rafting? Have you soaked in thermal pools or hiked in any national parks? Have you learned anything new, taken any classes or just kept up with the news? Have you sung along with any new songs? Have you undertaken any new exercise routines? Have you marched or otherwise participated in political protests? Have you been battered, or alternately, uplifted by any news?

Please share your August with me by giving me the plot below, or a link to a post in your blog that tells about your month.

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  • Central America
  • Cocktail Hour
  • Costa Rica

the july cocktail hour: a trip to ometepe, nicaragua; a beach getaway to tamarindo; & homebody activities

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 August 3, 2025

Thursday, July 31, 2025: Welcome to our July cocktail hour. Let’s have some Flor de Caña 12-year-aged rum with Fresca, a drink easily made at home here in Costa Rica. We can congregate on the balcony and enjoy breezes and views of Lake Arenal. If you listen carefully, you can hear the grunting of the howler monkeys and you might even see a toucan fly clumsily by. You can visit our resident hummingbird, who has recently built a nest in a flower bush outside our kitchen window. You can even come along vicariously on our getaways to Ometepe, Nicaragua and to Tamarindo on the Pacific coast of Costa Rica. Sunset is at around 6:00 every night of the year; twilight brings with it lots of mosquitoes, so be sure to slather on the mosquito repellent.

I have a variety of soda, seltzer water, or bebida de aloe for those of you who don’t drink. Thanks for joining us in our escape into a peaceful corner of the world, not a place completely free from danger, but safe from certain things we cannot abide, like living in a police state under a fascist government.

July marked our second month in Guanacaste, Costa Rica. It was in some ways a busy month and in other ways a laid-back, homebody-type month.

Our exercise & personal care routine

Three days of each week, we get up just after dawn (around 5:30), have breakfast and soon go to Monster Gym for our workouts. On Wednesdays we go to Living Forest for a yoga class. The remaining days of the week, we go on walks through hilly terrain, mostly to and around Tronadora or to the top of San Luis. Only once this month did I do an online Pilates class. Mike goes to swim in the cove near our house at least once a week.

I finally found a beauty salon where I got a pedicure and asked about hair straightening.

Dining out with a few musical interludes

We tried a lot of local restaurants during the month. At Soda La Macha, we found delicious tilapia and a pleasant setting. We went to Taco Tuesday at Lake Arenal Brewery where we danced to Jimmy Loop while playing handmade musical instruments. We ate out at Guadalupe, La Pradera, and Paseo del Viento (a food court near Monster Gym where Mike got a hamburger at 506 Snacks and I got a tostada cup filled with shrimp ceviche). We drove to Nuevo Arenal one evening for a nice dinner at Moya’s Place. We had ice cream treats at Pop’s in Tilaran. We enjoyed a lunch mid-walk at Soda Doña Chila’s in Tronadora. We had ceviche at Cevichera La Pasadita in San Luis. And finally, on Sunday the 27th, we went to hear Smooth Jazz on the Lake by Eureka at La Tortuga, on the north side of Lake Arenal.

Other events

We looked at and pretty much decided to rent a condo at Lake Arenal Condos for our second six months here. We went to a Blessing of the Boats at the cove.

A visit to the family in Ometepe, Nicaragua

We took a trip to Ometepe, Nicaragua to visit Adam and family for 6 nights in the middle of the month. It was stressful crossing the border with our car from Costa Rica to Nicaragua, but we managed to survive it and the ferry ride across to the island. We had a great visit with the family as the girls were out of school for the entire week plus Adam and Maria closed their business for the week so we could all spend time together. We saw Cristy, who was voted Queen of her school, march in a parade in Altagracia. We watched Andrea and Maria practice for a gymnastics competition coming up in Managua at their neighbor Manja’s gymnastics pavilion.

Mike and I took a chocolate tour at El Pital Chocolate Paradise and drank ceremonial doses of cacao. We walked on the beach most mornings and on the road to Santa Domingo two mornings. We swam in Lago Nicaragua and played at the beach with Adam, Maria and the kids. We ate meals with the family: takeout pizza from Pizzeria Mediterranea, lunch at Ojo de Agua, and dinner at Libélula (Dragonfly) Café and at Xalli. Mike and I ate on our own at Xalli, Cafe Campestre, El Pital, Bûstavö, and Pan de Mama. It was the best family time we’ve ever had in Nicaragua and we loved it all.

Soon after we returned to Costa Rica after our visit to Nicaragua, we heard that Andrea won the gold medal for her floor exercises at the gymnastics competition in Managua. We are so proud of her!

Tamarindo: a beach break

Finally, the last two days of July, we took a trip to Tamarindo, one of the most developed beaches, known for its surfing culture, on the Pacific beach. We hung out at the beach and at Langosta Beach Club, ate meals at Cha Cafe, Fish & Cheeses, Little Lucha and Kabuto Sushi, went shopping, and took an Estuary Boat Tour through Parque Nactional Marino Las Baulas de Guanacaste. It was hot, humid and sunny, quite a difference from our weather near Lake Arenal.

IsVeranillo here?

Apparently July to August is considered the “little high season” (also known as veranillo or “little summer”) with pleasant weather with minimal rain, moderate crowds and lower prices. We definitely lucked out in Ometepe with Veranillo, as we had near-perfect weather. In Costa Rica, it was a mixed bag.

Homebody stuff

I finished 3 books in July, bringing my total to 28/48. I especially enjoyed Speak, Silence by Kim Echlin. I learned a lot about the Panama Canal in the fictional The Great Divide by Cristina Henríquez. We watched two movies: The Life List, which I enjoyed, and Nonnas, which was predictable and mediocre. We started watching a couple of new series: The Survivors and Letters from the Past (Gelecege Mektuplar). We finished watching Thank You, Next, The Secrets We Keep, Istanbul Encyclopedia, The Manny and Sara: Woman in the Shadows. We continued watching Younger, North of North, Seinfeld, Togetherness, Pernille, Tuiskoms and Severance.

On my Costa Rica blog, you can find my weekly recaps of our lives in Costa Rica:

  • a week of salon services & pizza; yoga, a sauna & soak; an exploration of tilarán on foot; & a walk to a pitaya farm {week 5/52}
  • a week of lazy days, warrior wasps, swimming horses, & boat blessings {week 6/52}
  • our first visit to ometepe, nicaragua to visit the family {week 7/52}
  • a slow-motion recovery from our nicaragua trip & some unsettling warnings about safety around lake arenal {week 8/52}
*********

I hope you’ll share how the year is panning out for you, and what plans you have for the summer and the rest of this year.

How did your July go? Did you have any special family gatherings? Have you welcomed any new additions to your family?  Did you celebrate any birthdays or anniversaries? Have you read any good books that can inform your worldview, seen any good movies, binge-watched any television series? Have you planned any adventures or had any summer getaways? Have you dreamed any dreams? Have you gone to any exotic restaurants, cooked any new dishes? Have you been surprised by anything in life? Have you learned anything new, taken any classes or just kept up with the news? Have you sung along with any new songs? Have you undertaken any new exercise routines? Have you marched or otherwise participated in political protests? Have you been battered, or alternately, uplifted by any news?

Please share your July with me by giving me the plot below, or a link to a post in your blog that tells about your month.

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