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    • on returning home
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  • Contact

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  • Home
  • about ~ wander.essence ~
    • ~ the places i’ve been ~
    • ~ places i’ve been in the u.s.a. ~
  • Travel Destinations
    • America
      • Boston
      • Delaware
      • District of Columbia
        • Washington
      • Georgia
        • Atlanta
      • Maryland
      • New Jersey
        • Cape May
      • New York
        • Adirondacks
        • Buffalo
        • Niagara Falls
      • Pennsylvania
        • Pittsburgh
      • South Carolina
      • Tennessee
        • Nashville
      • Virginia
    • American Road Trips
      • Canyon & Cactus Road Trip
      • Florida Road Trip
        • Everglades
        • Fort Lauderdale
        • Florida Keys
        • Miami
        • St. Augustine
      • Four Corners Road Trip
        • Arizona
          • Monument Valley
          • Petrified Forest National Park
          • Sunset Crater National Monument
          • Walnut Canyon National Monument
          • Winslow
          • Wupatki National Monument
        • Colorado
          • Colorado National Monument
          • Colorado Towns
          • Great Sand Dunes National Park
          • Grand Junction
        • New Mexico
        • Utah
          • Arches National Park
          • Canyonlands
          • Navajo National Monument
          • Dead Horse Point State Park
          • Hovenweep National Monument
          • Moab
          • Valley of the Gods
          • Natural Bridges National Monument
      • Great Lakes Road Trip
        • Michigan
        • Minnesota
        • Wisconsin
      • Midwestern Triangle
        • Illinois
          • Carbondale
          • Murphysboro
        • Kentucky
          • Covington
          • Lexington
          • Louisville
        • Ohio
          • Cincinnati
      • Road Trip to Nowhere
        • Nebraska
        • North Dakota
        • South Dakota
      • Tex-New Mex Road Trip
        • Texas & New Mexico Road Trip
        • New Mexico
        • Texas
    • International Travel
      • Africa
        • african meanderings {& musings}
        • Egypt
          • Cairo
        • Ethiopia
        • Morocco
      • Asia
        • Cambodia
        • China
          • China Diaries
          • Guangxi Province
        • India
          • Rishikesh
          • Varanasi
        • Japan
          • Kyoto
        • Myanmar
        • Oman
          • a nomad in the land of nizwa
          • Nizwa
        • Singapore
        • South Korea
          • catbird in korea
        • Thailand
        • Turkey
          • Cappadocia
        • Vietnam
      • Central America
        • Costa Rica
        • El Salvador
        • Nicaragua
        • Panama
          • Bocas del Toro
          • Panama City
      • Europe
        • In Search of a Thousand Cafés
        • Croatia
          • Dalmatia
            • Istria
            • Dubrovnik
            • Plitvice Lakes National Park
            • Split
            • Zadar
            • Zagreb
        • Czech Republic
          • Český Krumlov
        • England
        • France
        • Greece
        • Hungary
          • Budapest
          • Esztergom
        • Iceland
        • Italy
          • Bergamo
          • Cinque Terre
          • The Dolomites
          • Florence
          • Rome
          • Tuscany
          • Venice
          • Verona
          • Via Francigena
        • Portugal
        • Spain
          • Camino de Santiago
            • packing list for el camino de santiago 2018
      • North America
        • Canada
          • The Maritimes
            • New Brunswick
            • Nova Scotia
            • Prince Edward Island
          • Ontario
        • Mexico
          • Guanajuato
          • Mexico City
            • Teotihuacán
          • Querétaro
          • San Miguel de Allende
      • South America
        • Colombia
        • Ecuador
          • Cuenca
          • Quito
    • how to make the most of a staycation
      • Coronavirus Coping
  • Imaginings
    • imaginings: the call to place
  • Travel Preparation
    • journeys: anticipation & preparation
  • Travel Creativity
    • on keeping a travel journal
    • on creating art from travels
      • Art Journaling
    • photography inspiration
      • Photography
    • writing prompts: prose
      • Prose
        • Fiction
        • Travel Essay
        • Travelogue
    • writing prompts: poetry
      • Poetry
  • On Journey
    • on journey: taking ourselves from here to there
  • Books & Movies
    • books | international a-z |
    • books & novels | u.s.a. |
    • books | history, spirituality, personal growth & lifestyle |
    • movies | international a-z |
    • movies | u.s.a. |
  • On Returning Home
    • on returning home
  • Annual recap
    • twenty-fifteen
    • twenty-eighteen
    • twenty-nineteen
    • twenty-twenty
    • twenty-twenty-one
    • twenty twenty-two
    • twenty twenty-three
    • twenty twenty-four
    • twenty twenty-five
  • Contact

wander.essence

wander.essence

Home from Morocco & Italy

Home sweet home!May 10, 2019
I'm home from Morocco & Italy. :-)

Italy trip

Traveling to Italy from MoroccoApril 23, 2019
On my way to Italy!

Leaving for Morocco

Casablanca, here I come!April 4, 2019
I'm on my way to Casablanca. :-)

Home from our Midwestern Triangle Road Trip

Driving home from Lexington, KYMarch 6, 2019
Home sweet home from the Midwest. :-)

Leaving for my Midwestern Triangle Road Trip

Driving to IndianaFebruary 24, 2019
Driving to Indiana.

Returning home from Portugal

Home sweet home from Spain & Portugal!November 6, 2018
Home sweet home from Spain & Portugal!

Leaving Spain for Portugal

A rendezvous in BragaOctober 26, 2018
Rendezvous in Braga, Portgual after walking the Camino de Santiago. :-)

Leaving to walk the Camino de Santiago

Heading to Spain for the CaminoAugust 31, 2018
I'm on my way to walk 790 km across northern Spain on the Camino de Santiago.

Home from my Four Corners Road Trip

Home Sweet Home from the Four CornersMay 25, 2018
Home Sweet Home from the Four Corners. :-)

My Four Corners Road Trip!

Hitting the roadMay 1, 2018
I'm hitting the road today for my Four Corners Road Trip: CO, UT, AZ, & NM!

Recent Posts

  • the march cocktail hour: a trip to guatemala & belize, a “No Kings” protest, and el gran tope de tronadora March 31, 2026
  • what i learned in flores, petén & the mayan ruins at tikal March 29, 2026
  • guatemala: lago de atitlán March 26, 2026
  • cuaresma in antigua, guatemala March 21, 2026
  • call to place, anticipation & preparation: guatemala & belize March 3, 2026
  • the february cocktail hour: witnessing wedding vows, a visit from our daughter & mike’s birthday March 1, 2026
  • the january cocktail hour: a belated nicaraguan christmas & a trip to costa rica’s central pacific coast February 3, 2026
  • bullet journals as a life repository: bits of mine from 2025 & 2026 January 4, 2026
  • twenty twenty-five: nicaragua {twice}, mexico & seven months in costa rica {with an excursion to panama} December 31, 2025
  • the december cocktail hour: mike’s surgery, a central highlands road trip & christmas in costa rica December 31, 2025
  • top ten books of 2025 December 28, 2025
  • the november cocktail hour: a trip to panama, a costa rican thanksgiving & a move to lake arenal condos December 1, 2025
  • panama: the caribbean archipelago of bocas del toro November 24, 2025

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top ten books of 2025

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 December 28, 2025

I choose many of my books for the year either based on my planned travels for the year, or from my huge book collection. On this year’s list, I picked books that took place in Mexico, Costa Rica and Panama, among other places. I read 48 books in total, with 6 taking place in Mexico, 1 in Costa Rica, 2 in Panama; I also read books set in the Norden countries of Finland (3), Sweden (2) and Norway (3) in preparation for our 2026 travels. In all, I read some 13,985 pages. The average length of books I read was 291 pages. I also read 7 short story collections.

I tried to incorporate more nonfiction and historical fiction into my reading this year to expand my knowledge and open my horizons. I learned a lot about the year 1968 (1968: The Year That Rocked the World by Mark Kurlansky); the beginning of the Nazi invasion of Norway in WWII (The Last Light Over Oslo by Alix Rickloff); the Finnish Winter War of 1939-1940 (The Girl in Grey by Annette Lyon);  Indian boarding schools and The Great Depression (This Tender Land by William Kent Kruger); Mexican and U.S. history including Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera and Leon Trotsky, as well as the McCarthy years (The Lacuna by Barbara Kingsolver & In the Casa Azul: A Novel of Revolution and Betrayal by Meaghan Delahunt); the building of the Panama Canal (The Great Divide by Cristina Henríquez); South and Central America in 1979 (The Old Patagonian Express: By Train Through the Americas by Paul Theroux); Italy during WWII (A Harvest of Secrets by Roland Merullo); the war in the Balkans (Madness Visible: A Memoir of War by Janine Di Giovanni and Speak, Silence by Kim Echlin), and varied accounts of the immigrant experience (American Dirt by Jeanine Cummins, Behold the Dreamers by Imbolo Mbue, North of Dawn by Nuruddin Farah, & What We Owe by Golnaz Hashemzadeh Bonde).

My 2025 bookshelves from my bullet journal

Here, you can see my 2025 Year in Books. Below are my 10 favorites + two bonus books. 🙂 They’re not in any particular order except the order in which I read them.

1) American Dirt by Jeanine Cummins *****

Jeanine Cummins has written a riveting tale of a woman and son from Mexico who are forced to migrate to “el norte.” Lydia is a middle class woman who runs a bookstore in Acapulco and is married to journalist Sebastian. Acapulco has been experiencing gruesome violence due to drug cartels. The city is being terrorized and people are afraid to go out in public. Her husband writes an exposé about the head of a new drug cartel, Los Jardineros, that is threatening the established cartels in Acapulco. It turns out this jefe is nicknamed “La Lechuza,” or The Owl, because of the glasses he wears. When Lydia puts two and two together, she realizes La Lechuza is a man, Javier, who has been visiting her in her bookshop, and with whom she shares a love of books. He is poetic, this man, and it seems he might be in love with her to some degree. When Lydia reveals her friendship with Javier to her husband, he asks her to carefully read the article before it goes to press; she assures Sebastian that Javier will not have a problem with it; that no violence will come to Sebastian or their family.

However, things don’t go to plan, and one awful day soon after the article’s publication, during Lydia’s niece Yénifer’s quinceañera, or 15th birthday, while 16 members of Lydia’s family, including Sebastian, are celebrating in the backyard, they are all gunned down – murdered in cold blood – by Los Jardineros. Lydia and Luca, her 8-year-old son, happen to be in the bathroom during the murders and manage to evade the killers.

Thus starts the long journey of Lydia and Luca to escape without a trace to “el norte.” Lydia and Luca have seen the violence that befell their family, and Lydia knows Javier will not rest until she and Luca are dead.

The story tells of all the hardships and dangers the two encounter as they slowly and doggedly make their way north, out of Javier’s reach. The book is a page-turner, and it dives deep into the migrant experience. It gives backstory and a face to one of the thousands of migrants that make their way across the border of Mexico’s northern neighbor each year. An excellent rendering of people trying to survive and thrive under terrifying circumstances and threats to their lives.

Disappearing Earth and Oh William!

2) Disappearing Earth by Julia Phillips *****

On an August day, while their mother Marina is working as a journalist, two young girls, Sophia (8) & Alyona (11), go missing from a beach in Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky on the Kamchatka Peninsula in Russia. The first chapter reveals their abduction, but nothing more is revealed of their fate. Instead, the author introduces the reader to various characters and their lives, people all aware of the abduction of the two girls. Their lives have been impacted or curtailed due to this highly publicized disappearance. The awareness of the girls’ unknown fate puts everyone on edge; people are already struggling with personal turmoils in their lives and relationships before this darkness descends.

Reading about these characters shows the harsh reality of life in this far-flung region of Russia. It turns out there are indigenous people from the North; one of them had a teenage daughter disappear years before, but the police never took the case seriously. They tried to convince the family that the daughter simply ran away. But the mother always felt the daughter was murdered and the police didn’t care enough to investigate.

In a book such as this with so many characters, the author provides a much-appreciated chart at the front of the book listing the different families and their relationships and jobs. There is also a map of Kamchatka which I also appreciated, although it would have been nice to have a bit more detail to it.

Overall, the book was a fascinating look into the lives of people living in the hinterlands of Russia and their struggles and deepest dreams, hopes and fears.

3) Oh William! (Amgash #3) by Elizabeth Strout *****

This was my 5th Elizabeth Strout book, and I have loved them all. This one cements my appreciation of this author for all eternity. She tells a story of a woman, Lucy Barton, who suffered horribly through an impoverished and abusive childhood, yet still finds joy in her life. In this book, she tells the story of her relationship, both past and present, with her ex-husband and now friend William. She married him, she felt safe with him, yet she also felt he was absent somehow. She felt he had “authority,” which gave her peace of mind after her terrifying and uncertain childhood. But as William is revealed, we see all of his faults, and Lucy’s as well, and we understand deeply how flawed people are; we humans are all flawed.

William finds out he has a half-sister, Lois Bubar, who he never knew about. His mother, Caroline, had left her husband, a potato farmer in Maine, and daughter, Lois, to run off with a German POW after WWII. William is the son of Caroline and that father who fought on the side of the Nazis. When William finds out that he has a half-sister, he asks Lucy to accompany him to Maine to check into his sister. Together, they find out some surprises about William’s mother and his half-sister and about the impoverished Maine towns that his mother came from. Lucy meets Lois Bubar, but Lois declines to meet William, her half-brother, who sat in the car waiting.

The countryside of Maine passes outside their car window: “We passed by a restaurant whose paint was peeled, it had obviously long been closed, but in square letters out front was a sign that said: AM I THE ONLY ONE RUNNING OUT OF PEOPLE I LIKE?” They see an old couch sitting in the middle of nowhere, a man glaring furiously at them as they drive by, boarded up towns, and the impossibly tiny dilapidated house where Caroline grew up. All of this is a shock to both of them.

Lucy tells of someone she met as a freshman in college, someone ten years older than she was. He didn’t really seem her style after she got in his car that had cup holders in the armrests. “But I liked him, I probably loved him. I fell in love with everyone I met.” I could relate to this from my own college years.

Lucy has just lost her dear second husband, David. There are two daughters from William and Lucy’s marriage, Becka and Chrissy who are now adults. Lucy looks at William and sees the things she saw in him when they were first married, and then she sees in him the things that caused her to leave him. Ever changeable, William defies understanding. Oh William! And Oh Lucy!

The Summer House by Philip Teir

4) The Summer House by Philip Teir ******

I really loved this summer escape to the Finnish seaside through this family of four: Julia and Erik and their two children, Alice and Anton. Like every family, they come with baggage. Erik has been sacked from his mediocre job at a department store but hasn’t told his wife. Julia is a novelist who will spend her summer writing her next book. She had written one before about her childhood at this same summer home, which the family hasn’t visited in years, and her childhood friend Marika. She had somehow felt oppressed by Marika as a child; Julia hadn’t been in touch with her in years. But the family discovers that Marika is visiting her family home with her husband, Chris, who has some strong beliefs about the environment. Chris and Marika had been environmental activists but now “formed a loose-knit group in Scotland whose purpose – and the whole thing sounded a bit vague to Julia – was to prepare for living in the world after climate change. And they had decided that Mjölkviken was the perfect place from which to welcome the apocalypse.”

This is NOT a futuristic or dystopian book. It is a book relevant to the current times, though it was published in 2018. The cast of characters also include some random people who are part of the “movement,” Kati, a grieving woman therapist, Chris’s 13-year-old son Leo, and Erik’s brother Anders. All of them are struggling with personal failures or dilemmas or life decisions, both past and present. I really love this kind of slow-moving book that explores the issues of the day and personal struggles of the characters.

Behold the Dreamers by Imbolo Mbue
Behold the Dreamers by Imbolo Mbue
Speak, Silence by Kim Echlin
Speak, Silence by Kim Echlin
Out Stealing Horses by Per Petterson
Out Stealing Horses by Per Petterson
5) Behold the Dreamers by Imbolo Mbue ******

This book takes place during the 2008 financial crisis, when the main character, a Cameroonian immigrant, Jende Jonga, is working as a chauffeur for Clark Edwards, a senior executive for Lehman Brothers. Jende gets along well with Clark, and in addition he drives Clark’s wife, Cindy, and their children Vincent and Mighty, various places. As a quiet and observant chauffeur, Jende overhears phone conversations that reveal the troubles at Lehman Brothers and troubles in the family: Vincent wants to go to India for “enlightenment” and wants to shun all the materialism and consumerism of America. Of course his parents had higher hopes for him and are upset and disappointed by this decision. I personally can relate to this; although we are not even close to being in the upper 1%, our son also chose to throw off the consumerism in the U.S. and escape to poverty-stricken Nicaragua to live a “simple” life.

There are problems in both families. Clark’s wife Cindy is needy and suspicious of her husband’s long working hours. She abuses drugs and alcohol. At one point she asks Jende to keep a book detailing all the places he drives Clark. It’s a no-win situation as Jende knows he often drops Clark at the Chelsea Hotel, and so, in loyalty to Clark, he changes all the Chelsea drop-offs to “the gym.” Cindy has promised Jende will never lose his job as long as he reports the truth to her. This situation creates a major tension and turning point in the book.

Jende’s wife, Neni, loves New York and the promise of America. She is going to school in hopes of becoming a pharmacist, while raising her six-year-old son Liomi and being pregnant. When problems start to arise over Jende’s legal status, and the family begins to suffer from the recession and money worries, Jende and Neni are at odds over whether to return to Cameroon or continue to struggle in the U.S.

The best thing about this story is that it puts this Cameroonian family in the center of the immigration debate that has been ongoing in the U.S. We are a nation of immigrants but under the current administration, the U.S. is seeking to purge our country of black and brown skins, creating a white supremacist society. Even Jende finally recognizes that people like him will always be struggling just to keep their heads above water. The focus of the book on two families of different social classes, the wealthy 1% and the immigrants seeking a better life, shows the stark divide in this country between the haves and have-nots, and how horrible it is for people who are forced to live in poverty and, basically, as slaves to the wealthy. For this timely story, which could easily be set today as in 2008, this is great read to understand the different forces at work in American society.

6) Speak, Silence by Kim Echlin *****

This wonderful but disturbing novel tells a fictional story based on the Foča trial of 2000 at The Hague. Gota Dobson is a journalist who goes to Sarajevo to write about a film festival and to look for an old lover, Kosmos, who is also the father of her child Biddy. Kosmos is from Sarajevo and he has always been in love with Edina, who was one of the rape victims held hostage during the war. Edina would become a witness in the trial, along with many other women who were repeatedly raped, beaten, tortured and held captive during the war. Edina was in love with Ivan; she, Kosmos and Ivan had been childhood friends. Gota becomes captivated by the trial and decides to stay in Sarajevo and then go to The Hague to write about the horrendous story. She befriends Edina and together they navigate the suffering that the war inflicted, particularly on the women, as well as the legalities of the trial. She listens to the witnesses who come forward reluctantly, unwilling to relive the abuse they suffered, in the public eye.

This is a slim but powerful novel about the atrocities human beings commit against one another, and the slivers of love, as well as the will to live, found among the ruins.

7) Out Stealing Horses by Per Petterson *****

This dreamlike book tells a complex & ever-unfolding story of a boy on the cusp of becoming a man. We start by looking back: Trond Sander is 67 years old and has moved to a small house in the far east of Norway, almost on the border with Sweden. Here Trond hopes to simplify life, to escape from Oslo and commune with nature. He hasn’t shunned the world, in fact he listens to the radio all the time, but when he listens to the news “it no longer has the same place in my life. It does not affect my view of the world as once it did.” He has longed all his life to be alone in a place like this, and the only company he has is his dog Lyra.

But a person cannot be so easily shed of his past. He meets his lone neighbor, Lars Haug, and soon after, a summer from his past comes to him. It was 1948, and Trond was 15 and spending the summer with his father; the two of them had gone to this place on the edge of Norway, surrounded by wilderness. Trond remembers a July morning at this place when his dear friend Jon came to his door and said they were “going out stealing horses.” After they had their fun with the horses, in which Trond was hurt and cut by barbed wire, Jon led him to climb up a tree, where Jon acted senselessly and cruelly. It turned out that Jon had been responsible for a tragedy the previous day that involved his younger twin brothers, the same Lars he met at age 67, and his twin brother Odd.

This complex story tells of Trond and his enigmatic father, who had been involved in the war effort against the Germans. His father had his own ideas about what it meant to be a man, and he had his own particular way of doing things. Trond loved and admired his father immensely, but over time his admiration was challenged by a course of complicated events.

The writing in this book is spare yet poetic, and Petterson captures so well the elusive nature of life, relationships and emotions so that the reader is carried along on the journey, open to whatever transpires. There is sadness, joy, and a tangle of emotions to explore. It was an immensely enjoyable read.

The No. 1 Ladies’ Detective Agency & 1968: The Year that Rocked the World

8) The No. 1 Ladies’ Detective Agency by Alexander McCall Smith *****

I was pleasantly surprised and charmed by 35-year-old Precious Ramotswe, a self-assured, wise and round (in the “traditional” way) woman who, after her father dies leaving her many head of cattle, sells the cows and opens a detective agency.

She worries about making enough money in fees to support herself but her reputation builds quickly and the local citizens increasingly seek her out to help them solve problems. Missing husbands, insurance fraudsters, fake fathers, vanishing sons, and witch doctors feature as her clientele’s problems to be solved.

The story gives interesting background about Precious’ father, her childhood, her first husband, and her friends, as well as the land and culture of Botswana. The story is well written and straightforward with a twist of humor.

It was a pleasurable read all around.

9) 1968: The Year that Rocked the World by Mark Kurlansky *****

I was only 12-13 years old in 1968 but I remember well the images on TV of the Vietnam War, the student riots, the invasion of Czechoslovakia, and the Black Panthers. Of course I remember the assassinations of Martin Luther King and Robert Kennedy. Even though I didn’t understand everything that was happening at the time, the images were so seared in my mind that I felt I needed to read Mark Kurlansky’s excellent historical account of that pivotal year. I found it an excellent book. Since I was too young to be fully immersed in events of that time, I can’t account for whether Kurlansky’s book includes all the important points of view or all the watershed moments. But I learned a great deal from reading this book, especially about the student uprisings that were all over the world, not just in the U.S., and all the political movements coming head-to-head during the year.

The thing I remember most from that year was my father, a staunch Republican, screaming and yelling at the TV about hippies, black people, and the anti-war movement. I believe he was even happy that King and Kennedy were assassinated. My upbringing by that hateful and racist man shaped me to become the polar opposite of him: I’m an anti-war Democrat, a person with an open mind who cares about humanity and equality and women’s rights and the plight of the poor. I see clearly the dangers of unfettered and unregulated capitalism. The greedy and powerful will always want to control everything they can, and there is no limit to their greed, their conniving, and their selfishness. And despite all they’ve accumulated, they can’t be bothered to give back to the society which gave them the tools to succeed. The world still hasn’t found its way; even now in 2025, 57 years later, I see we still haven’t progressed much since that year. I thought we had, but I see too many similarities between today and that year of upheaval.

Despite all the horrible things that happened in 1968, I found this quote especially enlightening: “The thrilling thing about the year 1968 was that it was a time when significant segments of the population all over the globe refused to be silent about the many things that were wrong with the world. They could not be silenced. There were too many of them, and if they were given no other opportunity, they would stand in the street and shout about them. And this gave the world a sense of hope that it has rarely had, a sense that where there is wrong, there are always people who will expose it and try to change it.” (p. 380).

This is the hope embodied in the year of 1968, and in this book.

Rules of the Wild: A Novel of Africa by Francesca Marciano

10) Rules of the Wild: A Novel of Africa by Francesca Marciano *****

This book is hands down my favorite book read in 2025. How have I missed reading this author before now? This story made me immediately want to take the next plane to Kenya; it only helps that I recently met a wonderful Kenyan lady who is gentle, wise and inspiring; a woman I have great respect for. She had already piqued my interest about her country; this book led to me being utterly besotted.

This novel though is about white people living in Kenya. The narrator is Esmé, a beautiful Italian woman who arrives in Nairobi with a boyfriend after losing her beloved father Ferdinando; she decides to stay behind in Nairobi without the boyfriend when he leaves. She soon falls in love with Adam, a second-generation Kenyan who leads safaris in the wild. She is amazed by the kinds of people she meets in the circle of expats living there: journalists, documentary filmmakers, artists, relief workers, wildlife researchers. She seems mostly in awe of everything. She finds the landscape both alluring and inhospitable, and she doesn’t know how she will fit in, or if she ever will.

Despite being in a comfortable relationship with Adam, when she meets journalist Hunter Reed, she feels an immediate attraction, despite, or maybe because of, his outrage over the horrors, poverty and violence found in Africa, especially in Somalia and in Rwanda in the early 1990s. He sees things clearly and without the rose-colored glasses through which the other expats see Africa. Their attraction is fierce and to Esmé, this attraction feels dangerous. She’s in terror that she’ll be obliterated by Hunter and his power over her.

The writing in this novel is superb; I devoured every word. I loved being immersed in this world, and I still want – desperately – to stay in it. A wonderful, absorbing and utterly addictive story.

******

And here are two books that I think are very worthwhile reads: a book for the times and a book that lays bare the worst of humanity:

On Tyranny: Twenty Lessons from the Twentieth Century  by Timothy Snyder ****

On Tyranny – a book for the times

The similarities between our current regime in the U.S. (& other “national populist” – aka fascist – governments throughout the world) and 1930s Germany are made clear in this small book about how democracies become autocracies. Timothy Snyder outlines the twenty lessons from the 20th century about how the death of democracies comes about by a thousand paper cuts, through: degradation of the free press and institutions; proliferation of misinformation and outright lies; book banning and the dismantling of education (the dumber people are, the easier they are to control); the chipping away of civil rights of minorities and women; the ongoing threats to anyone who speaks truth to power and and the strongly worded (tweeted) DEMANDS for obeisance; the shedding of professional ethics; the hiring of thugs (masked “ICE” agents who don’t show any identification while basically “disappearing” people to prisons in another countries without due process) to do the government’s bidding; the rejection of norms; and the list goes on…. Every single one of these lessons are ones that we can see happening under our current regime. It’s no wonder it is said that Timothy Snyder left the country for Canada.

The only thing I would say could improve the book is for certain chapters to be more cohesive and on point, especially the Epilogue.

Madness Visible: A Memoir of War by Janine di Giovanni *****

Madness Visible: A Memoir of War by Janine di Giovanni

I bought this book in 2021 at a bookstore in Dubrovnik, Croatia called Algebra, which has a good English section. I remember asking the bookseller what book she would recommend so I could learn more about the Balkans and without hesitation, she handed me Madness Visible: A Memoir of War. I didn’t read it right away, but I should have. I should have known more about this war in the 1990s; I must have had my head buried in the sand.

Thanks to talented and brave journalist Janine Di Giovanni, I know more than I ever wanted to know about the horrific wars that took place over a decade in the former Yugoslavia. The book jumps back and forth in time, and shows the true cost of war: in deaths, in wounds, in destruction of homes and entire towns, in psychological damage. Men and boys were pulled out of their homes, forced to dig their own mass graves, and then shot and tossed into the graves. Many were tortured in concentration camps and then killed in terrible ways. Women were held prisoner and repeatedly raped. Many had babies from these rapes and then disowned them in shame. The damage was extensive and still continues today, even though the wars are over. For now.

The author tells the heartbreaking story of people that turned on each other over minor grievances, and then inflicted terrible things on them. Leaders, followed by their gullible masses, promised “pure homelands;” they dehumanized the “other,” and then together they destroyed everything: people’s homes, their lives, their last vestiges of hope. In this book, it’s the Serbs who were the most heartless, the most ruthless. They were determined to cleanse Bosnia of Muslims, and they did it without hesitation, with utmost cruelty and animosity; they became animals.

The Western powers that had the ability to stop it all sat on their hands and did virtually nothing until it was too late. What a travesty.

I applaud this journalist for laying bare the truth about a horrific tragedy, a failure of epic proportions, a descent into madness. It showed me exactly what human beings are capable of doing to one another when manipulated by leaders who are filled with hatred and want revenge and retribution.

What a gut-wrenching, heartbreaking, and devastating book.

***********

Did you read any great books this year? What were some of your favorites?

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  • Bocas del Toro
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  • Cocktail Hour

the november cocktail hour: a trip to panama, a costa rican thanksgiving & a move to lake arenal condos

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 December 1, 2025

November 30, 2025: Welcome to our November cocktail hour. Let’s have a Pedro Mandinga Casco Viejo artisenal rum in memory of our fun time in Panama. We can enjoy strong breezes and sunset views and maybe even a Costa Rican-style “tormenta.” You can even come along vicariously on our trip to Panama, and celebrate Mike’s and my 37th anniversary.

I have a variety of soda, seltzer water, or bebida de aloe for those of you who don’t drink. Mike can also whip up some excellent smoothies. Thanks for joining us in our escape into a peaceful corner of the world.

November marked our sixth month in Guanacaste, Costa Rica. It was the third month that we traveled outside of Costa Rica (the first being a trip to Nicaragua in July and the second back to the U.S. in October). We enjoyed exploring a country we’d never visited before and I added to my country count: I have now visited 41 countries. We still had plenty of down time while not traveling.

a belated gathering for halloween & my birthday

On the first of the month, Mike organized a little belated birthday/Day of the Dead get-together with Darrell, Farida and Carol at Paseo del Viento, where we listened to live tunes by singer Andrú and the local eye doctor, Dra. Ana Maria of Óptica Murano. She and singer Andrú, whom we met at “Smooth Jazz by the Lake” at Restaurante La Tortuga at the end of July, sang haunting and lively tunes. Andrú has a deep sultry voice that brings tears to my eyes! Darrell also took us to his favorite spot Subterra where not much was happening, but it was decked out for Halloween. I thought the big mirror at the far end was another room. 🙂

Dining out in Costa Rica

On Tuesday night, we took our neighbor Bruce out to dinner at Mary’s to repay him for driving us to and from the Liberia airport in October. 

On Friday afternoon, Carol extended a last minute invitation to come up to her house for sunset on the first sunny day we’ve had in a while. By the time we got up there, it was no longer sunny and there wasn’t much of a sunset to see. No matter, we enjoyed the views as we sat on her expansive porch drinking cava and gnoshing on chips & salsa. That was until lightning struck nearby followed by a loud clap of thunder that sent us scurrying into her house!

We drove to Restaurante Cielo’s Pizza in Cabrada Grande and enjoyed pizza and more chatting: about TV shows, her daughters and her coming grandchild, our sons, family dynamics and books by Pat Conroy. The people who ran the quirkily-decorated restaurant were super friendly; their space featured a bicycle display, a gold-decked Christmas tree (yes, already!), a wall of toy cars still in the packages, and a giraffe display outside the bathroom. We had a fun time as usual with our friend!

Our friends Anne and Jack finally returned to Costa Rica after nearly 3 months away late Friday night. We went to their house for drinks on Saturday night and then went out to dinner at Chafi’s. 

Mike and I went to El Corral for lunch one day, where we enjoyed gorgeous weather and good food.

Finally, on the Friday night before our move, Darrell and Farida invited us to meet them at a new unnamed restaurant in Tronadora. When we arrived, we found that a young woman named Eden was running it; we had met her and her mother Yendy at yoga back in June or July. I thought for some reason they were returning to the U.S. after the summer because Eden was attending university in North Carolina. But it turns out she’s attending school online and now has opened this cafe. We had a great time with Darrell and Farida, with lots of laughs and much wine flowing. Sadly, we found out upon our return from Panama that they have put their beautiful house up for sale and they plan to move to Kenya, Farida’s home of origin. Of course we hope they won’t sell their house right away as we love their company.

Election Day in the U.S.

We were thrilled with the U.S. election results from Tuesday, November 4. It appears that the country is coming out strong against Trump and his ill-begotten policies, his cruelty and hate-mongering, his Gestapo-like tactics and embrace of Naziism and Christian White Nationalism, his foreign policy, his handling of the economy, trade and tariffs, and his policies (or lack thereof) regarding healthcare. Mobilizing troops in U.S. cities has turned many Americans against him.

I did my duty in October and voted early in Virginia,; the election brought in a sweeping blue change to the entire state government, electing Abigail Spanberger for the first female governor of Virginia, Jay Jones as the first black attorney general of Virginia and Ghazala Hashmi as the first Muslim woman to hold statewide office. In addition, Democrats flipped 13 House of Delegates seats, giving Democrats a trifecta in the state’s governance. I’m very proud of Virginia for coming through for a more progressive agenda that should address the concerns of Virginians struggling in an economy that just isn’t working for them.

Virginia wasn’t the only bellweather. In New Jersey, Mikie Sherrill triumphed over her Republican opponent by 13%. Democratic Socialist Zohran Mamdani beat out his opponents (including Andrew Cuomo who ran as an independent and was endorsed by Trump) by 9% for mayor of New York City. Finally, California voted FOR Prop 50 to redistrict the state to add more democratic votes to counteract Republican states redrawing maps in obeisance to Donald Trump; he demanded they do such to give him more Republican votes in the 2026 midterms.

A 10-day trip to Panama: Panama City & the Panama Canal

We visited Panama from November 10-19. In Panama City, we explored Casco Viejo, the old compound, where we found famous churches, the Panama Canal Museum, and “Panama” hats. We walked the Amador Causeway, explored the Frank Gehry-designed BioMuseo and visited the Mercado de Mariscos. We explored our neighborhood of El Cangrejo, enjoyed our 19th floor apartment and pool, and tried rum drinks at Pedro Mandinga Rum Bar. Finally we visited the Miraflores Visitor Center and the Panama Canal, where we watched a container ship and a cruise ship pass slowly through the locks. We explored the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo (aka MAC Panamá) and visited the father of one of Mike’s co-workers in the impoverished neighborhood of Curundú.

Our 37th anniversary celebration

We celebrated our 37th anniversary at Marques in Panama City, toasting our enduring marriage, the ups & downs, with wine & a special dinner out at Marques. I had catch of the day – sea bass fillet with pistachio crust, mussels in coconut milk with lemongrass, ying yang sauce, and blue curaçao. Mike got a Del Bosque: Risotto served with asparagus, mushrooms, and Parmesan with imported beef strips. We shared a brownie with ice cream for dessert. As we are early eaters, we had almost the entire restaurant to ourselves.

Bocas del Toro

In Bocas del Toro, we relaxed a lot in our Orange House at Over the Water Rentals. We rented ebikes and rode 40 minutes to Boca del Drago and took a water taxi to Playa Estrella, where we waded through the water among starfish. We rode the ebikes to Bluff Beach. We took a water taxi to Isla Careneró for a lunch at Bibi’s on the Beach, and then on to Red Frog Beach on Isla Bastimento, where I ran into a piece of driftwood, drawing blood and causing an edema. We enjoyed drinks with our neighbors from Vermont, Sidney and Steve. We kayaked to a little island in Saigon Bay where we snorkeled among corals. We then returned to Panama City under trying conditions.

Returning from Bocas del Toro to Panama City -> San José -> home

As we approached Panama City from Bocas del Toro on Panama Air, we flew in circles around the domestic airport, Marcos A. Gelabert International Airport (PAC), because of a “meteorological event.” We finally landed in the middle of “una tormenta,” a storm with raging winds, a torrential downpour, thunder and lightning. We sat on the plane for 40 minutes, unable to safely get off because it was a small plane where they pull up a portable staircase so passengers can disembark on the tarmac. The storm wasn’t letting up at all. Suddenly the plane started moving and we thought they might be taking us to a hangar to let us off the plane under cover. But the next thing we knew, without a word from the pilot or the stewardess, we were taking off down the runway. Nobody had a clue what was going on. We flew in a wide circle overlooking the ships sitting waiting to enter the Panama Canal. We thought maybe they were taking us to Tocumen International Airport, east of the city. But no! We realized that they were taking us back to the same airport where we’d landed the first time. Why, why, why?? We never discovered the answer.

This time, the storms had cleared and we were able to disembark, an hour late, just in time for rush hour.

After the dogs sniffed everyone’s luggage, we picked ours up and called an Uber. The Uber driver told us it would take two hours to get to our hotel near Tocumen Airport, 18 miles away. But he was wrong. The roads were in utter gridlock, we weren’t going anywhere. The estimated time was growing to 2 1/2 hours! The driver said it was because of the big fútbol match between Panama and El Salvador that was at the stadium near Tocumen. (Panama won and qualified for the World Cup; it was only the 2nd time they’ve qualified for the World Cup since 1978.)

We changed our destination with the Uber driver to Pedro Mandinga Rum Bar in El Cangrejo. It took us 1 3/4 hours to get there. We drank (a Casco Viejo – their in-house aged rum – & a Carajillo a la Pedro) and ate (Crostini Romesco & Vegano Trio de Patacones). We waited until the game started at 8:00, confirmed by Waze that the traffic had died down, and took an Uber another 30 minutes to our hotel. What a day!

When we flew into Costa Rica at 9:05 am (CR time) on Wednesday, we were awestruck by the mountainous surroundings around the capital of San José. From the air, they looked to be uninhabited, with barely a car, road or house in sight.

We were pleasantly surprised by the perfect cool and breezy weather (especially after sweltering Panama). We took a taxi from the airport to the hotel where we’d left our car. We found when we put our route home into Waze that we needed to avoid Route 1 and go north over winding mountain roads through Atenas, Palmeras, and San Ramon and then through La Fortuna at the NE end of Lake Arenal to get home, an estimated time of 4 hours and 40 minutes. We weren’t happy about that, but it would be better than sitting in heavy traffic on Route 1. Plus, we would see parts of Costa Rica west of San José that we’d planned to visit on a road trip the week before Christmas. It took a lot of time and concentration, especially for Mike who was driving, but we loved the scenery especially once we got away from the city.

We arrived in La Fortuna at 1:30 and stopped for lunch at Kappa Sushi, a place we’d liked when we visited the area in August. I enjoyed a Dragon Roll with shrimp tempura and Mike a Spicy Tuna Roll. After lunch, it was another 1 hour 40 minutes to our house in San Luis.

We arrived home at 4:00 and opened the house to cool breezes and gorgeous skies. Within an hour, we witnessed a marvelous richly-hued sunset. We were happy to be home to our house on Lake Arenal, but sad to know that in just 10 days, we’d be moving to the other end of the lake to Lake Arenal Condos for our last 6 months here.

Thanksgiving in Costa Rica

Thursday night we went with our friends Anne and Jack to Lake Arenal Brewery where they were offering a Thanksgiving meal and Spanish tunes by Olson del Toro.

Homebody stuff

On Sunday, November 2, we walked our 4-mile loop from our house to Tronadora and back, finding for the first time since July that the road that almost collapsed has now been redesigned and paved over. Another walk in Tronadora on Sunday the 30th, revealed more improvements on the road.

I continued my personal training with Nela on Monday, Wednesday and Friday while I was in Costa Rica, and then continued with her once we returned home from Panama.

On the 4th, Mike and I went to Liberia, me for a tomographia on my mouth and Mike for a consultation with Dr. Andrés Ugalde for a surgery for his carpal tunnel syndrome. Mike scheduled his surgery for December 2 here in Costa Rica, after which he won’t be able to swim, lift weights, drive a stick shift, etc. for 3-6 weeks. This means that for 3-6 weeks, I will have to do most of the cooking, cleaning, and especially driving the stick shift. We have a road trip planned to Volcán Poas in December, where I’ll have to do all the driving.

Meanwhile, the dentist wrote that my tomographia didn’t show any problems with my mouth, allowing me to lay that worry to rest.

On the last Tuesday of the month, we returned to Liberia to get a new permiso to take our car out of Costa Rica for our last 6 months here. This should cover us for two more visits, one in January and one in April. The permiso was surprisingly easy to get, with no line at all and a very helpful service professional. After that, we went to WalMart to buy clothes to take to the girls for a belated Christmas in January. It was an incredibly stressful 1 1/2 hours. For one the selection was really pathetic and figuring out the correct sizes, colors and styles was nearly impossible. We had already bought toys for Mikey on a previous visit. We wanted to get all this done while Mike still had use of both his hands and before we moved, and before everything was totally picked over as Christmas approached.

We went to Burger King for lunch, and because I never know how to order properly on the screens they provide for ordering, I accidentally ordered a Kid’s meal, and the server handed me a Kiddie box and asked which toy I’d prefer. Hilarious!

I finished 6 books in November, bringing my total to 44/48. I especially enjoyed The No. 1 Ladies’ Detective Agency by Alexander McCall Smith and 1968: The Year That Rocked the World by Mark Kurlansky; the latter tells about a year of upheaval which had many similarities to the current U.S. timeline in 2025. I also loved Memento Park by Mark Sarvas. We watched one movie, Mango, a bit cheesy but still enjoyable, especially the scenery in the beautiful town of Frigiliana, Spain. We started The Beast in Me, A Man on the Inside, and The Asset. We finished watching Adolescence, Angela, and the fifth season of Pernille, which I hope will have more seasons in the future because we LOVED it. We continued watching Younger, Seinfeld, Platonic, Unforgotten, The Morning Show, and The Diplomat. We endured another month that ended with a long 1,148 days left in our right-wing fascist oligarchy in the USA.

Moving to Lake Arenal Condos for our last six months

We spent much of the morning and early afternoon on Saturday the 29th moving into our new home at Lake Arenal Condos. The new place is on the ground floor of a three story condominium complex which sits high on the edge of a steep hill and has a magnificent view of Lake Arenal and Volcán Arenal.

Most things were going smoothly until we realized that we had ants and larvae living in the rim of the master bathroom toilet bowl, where water is distributed from the tank to rinse the bowl after each toilet flush. After much spraying of Black Flag and flushing, we seemed to get most of them out.

When we went to bed in the master bedroom, we found ants crawling around the bed. I freaked out, thinking they must have come in through the door we had left open to the porch (with a screen). However, when we woke on Sunday morning, we lifted the mattress to tuck in the sheets and found ants crawling all over on the the bed frame. We took the mattress off the wooden platform and there, under the mattress and on the bottom of the mattress, we found a whole ant colony, complete with larvae, bustling around. They had been having a grand time while we were sleeping right on top of them. Argh!!!

We sprayed Black Flag all over and washed all the bedding, but we are not going to be able to sleep in that bed until we’re certain that all the ants are permanently exterminated. As of Sunday afternoon, we hadn’t seen any movement, but our bed was still disassembled and we refused to sleep in it.

Embattled and stressed from our first day in the condo, we decided we deserved a treat after our harrowing adventure. We went to Tilarán to attend a concert billed as “Concierto de Ensamble Atrespam;” Atrespam is the Escuela de Musica in Tilaran. We watched some singers perform, but we didn’t know the names of any of them. The woman singer was especially good. We enjoyed the concert, checked out some artwork on the walls of the lobby, then took a walk around the city park, where we saw Christmas lights and another live concert.

We wandered to Paseo del Viento for drinks and hamburgers. It was a relief to escape our stressful first day in the new condo.

The Fall Bingo Card

This was a good month for checking off things on my Fall Bingo Card, especially during our trip to Panama and our move to Lake Arenal Condos.

  • Got a green pedicure
  • Worked on my 2026 bullet journal, especially creating my reading list for 2026
  • Wore more of my cowboy-themed t-shirts
  • Saw the Panama Canal and the Miraflores Visitor Center
  • Visited museums in Panama City: Biomuseo & Museo de Arte Contemporáneo; we also saw the Panama Canal murals
  • Went snorkeling in Bocas del Toro and took an island “boat tour” – in water taxis
  • Made a Veggie-packed navy bean soup
  • Celebrated Thanksgiving at Lake Arenal Brewery with our friends Anne & Jack
  • Moved to our new home at Lake Arenal Condos
  • Finished five books: The Narrow Road to the Interior: Poems by Kimiko Hahn; 1968: The Year That Rocked the World by Mark Kurlansky; There Must Be More Than This by Judith Wright; The Last Light Over Oslo by Alix Rickloff; and Memento Park by Mark Sarvas.

Family happenings from afar

Maria sent photos of the girls and Mikey dressed up for some friends’ Halloween party. Maria posted a photo of little Mike wandering with his overalls hanging off one shoulder, hanging with the cows, making a mess while eating, finally growing some hair, and trying to do gymnastics moves like this sisters.

Alex and Allie “played chess” with Allie concentrating — on the TV. Also, Alex, Jandira and Allie went for a two night getaway to Elkton, Va, where they did some hiking and celebrated Jandira’s 32nd birthday on the 24th.

On my Costa Rica blog, you can find my weekly recaps of our lives in Costa Rica for the month of November:

  • a new personal training regimen, a cattle auction & a belated birthday/halloween gathering {week 22/52}
  • a relaxing (& hopeful) week before a trip to panama & a drive to san josé {week 23/52}
  • a jaunt to panama: panama city & bocas del toro, and return to costa rica {weeks 24 -25/52}
  • a permiso for two more trips to nicaragua, a costa rican thanksgiving, & a move to a new home {week 26/52}
*********

I hope you’ll share how the year is panning out for you, and what plans you have for the holidays and the rest of this year.

How did your November go? Did you have any special family gatherings? Have you welcomed any new additions to your family?  Did you celebrate any birthdays or anniversaries? Have you read any good books that can inform your worldview, seen any good movies, binge-watched any television series? Have you planned any adventures or had any autumn getaways? Have you dreamed any dreams? Have you gone to any exotic restaurants, cooked any new dishes? Have you been surprised by anything in life? Have you marked off activities on your Fall Bingo card? Have you made any new friends? Have you learned anything new, taken any classes or just kept up with the news? Have you sung along with any new songs? Have you undertaken any new exercise routines? Have you marched or otherwise participated in political protests? Have you been battered, or alternately, uplifted by any news?

Please share your November with me by giving me the plot below, or a link to a post in your blog that tells about your month.

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  • Bocas del Toro
  • Bocas Town
  • Central America

panama: the caribbean archipelago of bocas del toro

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 November 24, 2025

Friday, November 14, 2025: Bocas del Toro is an archipelago on the Caribbean side of Panama almost to the Costa Rican border. We arrived to the largest of the islands, Isla Colón, this morning at 11:00 am at the Bocas del Toro Airport. I think it may be the smallest airport I’ve encountered in my travels to 41 countries. Airport security had dogs sniff each piece of luggage and then loaded the suitcases through a small door for passengers to pick up.

We then got a taxi – a 5 minute ride – to our Airbnb on Saigon Bay.

Our Airbnb rental at Saigon Bay in Bocas del Toro was called The Orange House, a rental by Over the Water. It offered free paddle boards, kayaks and snorkeling equipment to use. It had a living-area deck, equipped with a hammock, couches, chairs and a table, overlooking the bay. It was so relaxing with the sound of water lapping underfoot that I was tempted not to do a thing but laze around during our entire four-day stay.

The purple house in the pictures was a neighboring house.

After checking in and getting a tour of the property by one of the owners, Marlin, we walked down a path to the main road and ate lunch at what Marlin called a “working man’s” restaurant, El Beso del Dragon. I had pescado frito (fried whole fish) and Mike had sopa de carne y rabito (beef and oxtail soup). Then we walked to the supermarket to get some supplies for our stay.

After lounging about the house all afternoon, Friday night we had dinner at the charming El Ultima Refugio in Bocas Town. It was a pleasant experience, sitting in the restaurant that juts out into the Caribbean with waves lapping underfoot, a cool breeze and a perfectly mellow playlist.

El Ultimo Refugio is a Caribbean-fusion restaurant with an ever-changing menu seasonally steered by the availability of fresh local ingredients. The server brings out a whiteboard and props it on a chair so patrons can study the evening’s menu.

We shared three “small plate” appetizers which were so generous we had to take some home: fried shrimp with pineapple salsa; Patacon Pisao (fried green plantains  topped with BBQ pulled pork, pico de gallo & passionfruit sauce); and gnocchi in creamy garlic sauce with white wine, cherry tomatoes, mushrooms, broccoli, and Parmesan cheese. We also shared a Snickers bar-type pie.

Saturday, November 15: Saturday morning in Bocas del Toro, we rented e-bikes and rode 40 minutes to the far end of Isla Colón to Playa Boca del Drago, where we caught a water taxi to Playa Estrella. There we found colorful beach shacks serving various foods and beverages. Further down the beach, removed from the eating establishments, we found numerous starfish on the sandy bottom. People are not supposed to touch them or they can die, so we just waded carefully in the water observing them and taking photos. It was interesting that each one had a different pattern.

At Playa Estrella we had smoothies while waiting for our water taxi to take us back to our e-bikes.

From there we backtracked another 25 minutes then turned to the northwest to visit Bluff Beach. This was a nice beach but more for surfers as the sea here was rough. We stopped at Skully’s, not the best move as the place was inefficient and lackadaisical. We gobbled down a few sloppy tasteless tacos and then rode back the rest of the way to Bocas Town where we returned the e-bikes at Bocas eBikes.

Saturday night El Ultimo Refugio had live music 🎶, so we had dinner there for the 2nd night in a row. We shared a delicious tomato curry soup and salmon rigatoni with pesto sauce, bacon, cherry tomatoes and Parmesan. This time we sat next to a young couple with a 3-month-old baby. Strangely enough, the young woman was married to an Angolan man (the opposite of our son Alex who is married to an Angolan woman), and their baby was a boy. We told them about our son and daughter-in-law and that they were living in our house while we were living in Costa Rica. We said we hoped Alex and Jandira could save money while they lived there, although the day care is outrageously expensive in Northern Virginia at $1,800/month for only 3 days/week! They told us they were living currently in the young woman’s parent’s condo in Chicago, and they were finding the same outrageous costs for daycare that Alex and Jandira are encountering. This is a such a financial burden for young couples trying to start a family. The woman said that she doesn’t think the U.S. is family friendly. She and her husband met in South Africa and wonder if they should move somewhere outside of the States.

Sunday, November 16: On Sunday, we took a taxi to Bocas Town where there was a big festival going on to celebrate the town’s founding. We wrangled our way through the crowds to find a water taxi to take us to the more sedate Isla Carenero, adjacent to Isla Colón. Our water taxi pilot, Luis, dropped us at the pier at the rather decrepit Buccaneer Hotel.

Next door was Bibi’s on the Beach, a restaurant our neighbors Steve and Sidney from Vermont recommended. We had to wait a half hour for Bibi’s on the Beach to open at noon, but soon we ordered drinks, an Aperol Spritz & a Gin Basil, and enjoyed their music playlist and views of the archipelago. We shared sautéed mussels with lime & garlic & Coco & Curry fish: Grilled with coconut & curry sauce with toasted almonds. We lingered for quite a while soaking up the atmosphere until Luis returned with the water taxi to take us to our next destination, Red Frog Beach on Isla Bastimentos.

We arrived by water taxi at the marina near the Red Frog Beach Resort on Isla Bastimentos, paid the $5/person fee, and then walked 13 minutes to the other side of Isla Bastimento to the Beach Club. It was rather gloomy when we first arrived. Mike went for a swim while I relaxed under the thatched umbrella and drank a beer. Finally the sun came out and we took a little walk on the beach.

We continued our walk on Red Frog Beach until we found an interesting piece of driftwood sticking out of the beach which called out to us for photos. While taking the last photo of Mike, I ran smack into the other end of the driftwood sticking out of the sand and punctured my shin, releasing a stream of blood and causing an immediate edema. Ouch! I waded into the sea to rinse off the blood. Luckily, lifeguard Juan Carlo put ice on the swelling and patched me up. We caught a golf cart back to the other side of the island where Luis soon came to pick us up in the water taxi, returning us to Bocas Town.

Back at our Orange House, Mike took good care of me, bringing me an ice pack to put on my elevated leg. The owners gave us some antibiotic which I applied. I was sure I’d have a nasty bruise for a while once the swelling went down. This was my third accident today, the first knocking over & spilling my drink at Bibi’s, the 2nd running into the driftwood, and the 3rd, dropping one of the clothespins into the water when I was hanging out clothes on the line. What a klutz I was today!

Sunday evening we stayed in at our Orange House over the water and watched the sunset, ordered a pizza for delivery, and then had drinks with our neighbors Steve & Sidney from Vermont. Their kids had finally flown the coop and, in their mid-50s, they’d decided to start working remotely in different places. Steve works for the State of Vermont and Sidney does immigration work, helping people to get their paperwork and green cards. They came to Panama for a month and had settled in nicely in Bocas for a couple of weeks to work and soak up the island life. The things that Sidney said sounded like they’d come right from my mouth, so I took an immediate liking to her. They said they hope to be traveling like we do when they finally retire.

Monday, November 17: We enjoyed the views Monday morning from our Orange House. After our lazy morning, we took the kayaks (offered free by our Airbnb) to an island and snorkeled around looking at coral 🪸. We saw mostly yellow corals, but some red, purple & orange. Some were like tropical leaves, others like boa constrictors tightly wound. We saw mostly tiny fish. What put a stop to my snorkeling adventure was coming face to face with a jellyfish. We enjoyed our leisurely paddle back to our Orange House and then ate leftover pizza.

I had to take a picture in the hammock of life mimicking art, 🖼️ except for the 70-year-old legs 😩.

Our last evening in Bocas del Toro we continued soaking up the pleasant atmosphere at our Orange House. We went out for dinner at Om Cafe in Bocas Town. We shared Butter Paneer and chickpea masala. The last two pictures are from the bathroom doors at Om Cafe.

It was hot and humid on this Caribbean side of Panama, but once were were “over the water” in the evenings, we found a cool breeze and a pleasant vibe. Many foreigners come here to live citing a “tropical paradise” but much of Bocas Town is impoverished and the heat & humidity during the daytime are oppressive. For me, it’s nowhere close to my perfect place to settle. I’ll keep searching but in the meantime, I dream of Crete or the highlands of Mexico.

Tuesday, November 18: Tuesday morning, it was check out time from “our” Orange House. We waited until the checkout time of 11:00, with Mike even taking the kayak out into Saigon Bay one last time. Meanwhile I relaxed, showered and packed. One picture below shows a seashell 🐚 at the end of the pull string for the fan, with the fish painted on the wall. The whole place was charmingly decorated with hundreds of huge conch shells and other natural things from the sea.

After checking out, we sat in the common area waiting for a 1:00 taxi to the airport for our 2:30 flight back to Panama City. I wish we had known that there was a very small plane that flies directly from Bocas to San José. It would have saved us a lot of time. As it was, we had to return to Panama City, spend the night, and catch an early flight out to San Jose on Wednesday morning. Then we’d have a 3-hour drive to our house in Tilaran.

It’s a bummer when you find out too late that things could have been easier!

Below were our last views of Bocas del Toros. Little did we know what we would encounter on our return trip to Panama City….

As we approached Panama City from Bocas del Toro on Panama Air, we saw the bay in the first picture below not once, not twice, but three times as we flew in circles around the domestic airport, Marcos A. Gelabert International Airport (PAC), because of a “meteorological event.” We finally landed in the middle of “una tormenta,” a storm with raging winds, a torrential downpour, thunder and lightning. We sat on the plane for 40 minutes, unable to safely get off because it was a small plane where they pull up a portable staircase so passengers can disembark on the tarmac. The storm wasn’t letting up at all. Suddenly the plane started moving and we thought they might be taking us to a hangar to let us off the plane under cover. But the next thing we knew, without a word from the pilot or the stewardess, we were taking off down the runway. Everybody was looking at each other: “What’s happening? We’re taking off again? Where are they taking us?” Nobody had a clue what was going on. We flew in a wide circle overlooking the ships sitting waiting to enter the Panama Canal. We thought maybe they were taking us to Tocumen International Airport, east of the city. But no! We realized that they were taking us back to the same airport where we’d landed the first time. Why, why, why??

This time, the storms had cleared and we were able to disembark, an hour late, just in time for rush hour.

After the dogs sniffed everyone’s luggage, we picked ours up and called an Uber. The Uber driver told us it would take two hours to get to our hotel near Tocumen Airport. But he was wrong. The roads were in utter gridlock, we weren’t going anywhere. The estimated time was growing to 2 1/2 hours! The driver said it was because of the big fútbol match between Panama and El Salvador that was at the stadium near Tocumen. (Panama won and qualified for the World Cup; it was only the 2nd time they’ve qualified for the World Cup since 1978.)

We changed our destination with the Uber driver to Pedro Mandinga Rum Bar in El Cangrejo. It took us 1 3/4 hours to get there. We drank (a Casco Viejo – their in-house aged rum – & a Carajillo a la Pedro), ate (Crostini Romesco & Vegano Trio de Patacones). We waited until the game had started at 8:00, confirmed by Waze that the traffic had died down, and took an Uber another 30 minutes to our hotel. What a day!

Wednesday, November 19: We left our hotel at 6:00 am on Wednesday morning for an 8:40 flight from Panama City to San José on Copa Airlines (about a 1 hr+ flight). We ate breakfast at the airport and took off on time in pouring rain. We flew over the ships waiting to enter the Panama Canal and before long were above the clouds. As we crossed into Costa Rica we saw nothing but mountains beneath us, although Mike could see the Caribbean and I could see the Pacific Ocean and the Nicoya Peninsula from our respective sides. (We each got aisle seats across from each other with no one else beside us). How I love seeing the landscape and the clouds from a plane.

When we flew into Costa Rica at 9:05 am (CR time) on Wednesday, we were awestruck by the mountainous surroundings around the capital of San José. From the air, they looked to be uninhabited, with barely a car, road or house in sight.

The metro area of about 2 million people sits in a high valley surrounded by volcanoes and those seemingly impenetrable mountains. From where we live in Tilaran, it takes about 3 hours to drive there taking the flattest route close to the country’s southern border on Route 1. That road is often only two lanes and is usually burdened by heavy traffic, especially during weekdays.

We were pleasantly surprised by the perfect cool and breezy weather (especially after sweltering Panama). We took a taxi from the airport to the hotel where we’d left our car, encountering numerous detours due to road construction. We found when we put our route home into Waze that we needed to avoid Route 1 and go north over winding mountain roads through Atenas, Palmeras, and San Ramon and then through La Fortuna at the NE end of Lake Arenal to get home, an estimated time of 4 hours and 40 minutes. We weren’t happy about that, but it would be better than sitting in heavy traffic on Route 1. Plus, we would see parts of Costa Rica west of San José that we’d planned to visit on a road trip the week before Christmas. It took a lot of time and concentration, especially for Mike who was driving, but we loved the scenery especially once we got away from the city.

We arrived in La Fortuna at 1:30 and stopped for lunch at Kappa Sushi, a place we’d liked when we visited the area in August. After lunch, it was another 1 hour 40 minutes to our house in San Luis.

We arrived home at 4:00 and opened the house to cool breezes and gorgeous skies. Within an hour, we witnessed a marvelous richly-hued sunset. We were happy to be home to our house on Lake Arenal, but sad to know that in just 10 days, we’d be moving to the other end of the lake to Lake Arenal Condos for our last 6 months here.

Here is a video of our time from Bocas del Toro back to Costa Rica.

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  • Casco Viejo
  • Central America
  • El Cangrejo

a trip to panama city: el cangrejo, casco viejo & the panama canal

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 November 22, 2025

Monday, November 10, 2025: We arrived at the San José Airport (Juan Santamaría International Airport) and waited for our 10:05 a.m. Copa Airlines flight to Panama. The flight was about 1 1/2 hours and luckily without incident.

El Cangrejo

We arrived at our neighborhood of El Cangrejo in Panama City at PH Sky Swiss, an Airbnb apartment on the 19th floor of a condominium. There we found a bearskin rug, which Mike quickly commandeered, and magnificent views of the city’s skyline.

We went out for lunch at Uva Cafe next door to our building. Mike had a Smash Burger Cuarto de Libro and I had a Perrito Mejicano (a hot dog on a Brioche bun with jalapeños, salsa and cheddar). We saw the Panamanian flag everywhere and found out that day, November 10, was Los Santos Uprising Day in Panama. This public holiday commemorates the beginning of Panama’s struggle for independence from Spain in 1821.

The event that sparked an anti-Spanish uprising in La Villa de los Santos is known as Grito de La Villa de los Santos or the Cry of Rufina Alfaro. Rufina Alfaro was a young woman who lived in a small village near Los Santos. On November 10, 1821 she led a group of Panamanians, shouting “Viva la Libertad” (Long Live Liberty). People armed with sticks and stones seized Spanish barracks without spilling a single drop of blood. Many claim that Rufina is a legend, although the uprising in Los Santos did occur.

After lunch we relaxed in the apartment after our two days of travel, enjoying the views and the air-conditioning.

In the evening, we wandered around El Cangrejo finding some colorful murals on a dollar store and Einstein’s Head, also known as Cabeza de Einstein, a landmark located on a traffic island in the neighborhood. The bust that changes color at night was donated by the local Jewish community and designed by Panamanian artist Carlos Arboleda in 1968.

We enjoyed dinner at Pho Vietnam, which was colorfully decorated with umbrellas on the ceiling and a giant plastic bowl of Pho at the entry. I had Mixed Noodles with Shrimp and Mike had Combination Pho. We then strolled around the lively neighborhood after dinner.

Tuesday, November 11: We enjoyed morning views from our apartment window, ate breakfast in, then went out to explore Casco Viejo, the Old Compound. We took Ubers everywhere we went in Panama City at a very reasonable cost.

Casco Viejo (Old Compound)

Following the destruction of the old city in 1671, the Spanish moved their city to a rocky peninsula at the foot of Cerro Ancón. The new location was easier to defend as the reefs prevented ships from approaching the city except at high tide. The massive wall surrounding it also helped with defense. Casco Viejo (Old Compound) got its name from this wall.

In 1904, when construction began on the Panama Canal, all of Panama City existed where Casco Viejo stands today. However, as population growth and urban expansion pushed the boundaries of Panama City further east, the city’s elite abandoned Casco Viejo and the neighborhood rapidly deteriorated into a slum.

Today Casco Viejo’s crumbling facades have been mostly replaced by immaculate renovations. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2003, the restored architecture gives a glimpse of the old city’s magnificence.

We started our exploration of the area Tuesday morning at Plaza Francia. At the tip of the southern point of Casco Viejo, this plaza pays respect to the French role in the construction of the canal. Its large stone tablets and statues are dedicated to the memory of the 22,000 workers who died trying to create the canal.

The Paseo las Bóvedas esplanade runs along the top of the sea wall built by the Spanish to protect the city. From here, we could see the Puente de las Américas arching over the waterway and the ships lining up to enter the canal.

We dipped into an art gallery in Las Bóvedas (The Vaults) next to the Teatro Nacional, built in 1907.

We walked along the sea wall on Paseo Esteban Huertas where we found indigenous Kuna women selling the embroidered molas (handmade textile panels) for which the country is famous.

The compact Casco Viejo is a mix of restored neoclassical, rainbow-hued buildings with wrought-iron balconies; centuries-old churches; and narrow cobblestone streets.

We came upon a large recessed brick arch known as Arco Chato (Flat Arch), about 15 meters long and 10 meters high, which supported the choir of Saint Dominic’s Church. It became a popular tourist attraction in the 19th century, despite being located among ruins. It was declared a national monument in 1941.

The flat Arch remained standing until 2003, when it collapsed unexpectedly. The current arch is a reconstruction lined with its original bricks.

In the Augustinian Iglesia de San José (built 1671-1677), the extraordinary Altar de Oro (Golden Altar – a wooden altar covered in gold leaf) is a treasure – with a legend to match.

The story goes that when Welsh privateer Henry Morgan launched his 1671 attack on Panamá Viejo – which resulted in the destruction of the original Panama City – Jesuit priests painted the altarpiece black to disguise it, telling Morgan that another pirate had already stolen it.

In a back room of the church was an expansive village diorama that told the story of Jesus, from Mary’s visit from the angels to everything before Christ’s resurrection. In the same room were wooden life-size figures of the 12 disciples, except for one that was missing.

We continued our stroll through Casco Viejo: Plaza Herrera, government buildings, Church of the Mercy (a small church with a 1680 Baroque facade), Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of Santa Maria the Ancient, and the Municipal Palace.

We enjoyed a nice lunch at Al Alma Cafe & Brunch, where we shared a chorizo empañada & Eggs Benedict with avocado & Parmesan. We had a great time chatting with Nicholas, our server from Medellin, Colombia, before heading over to the Panama Canal Museum.

The Panama Canal Museum (Interoceanic Canal Museum) covers a lot of the complicated history of this massive project.

The Panama Canal is an artificial 82-kilometer (51-mile) waterway in Panama that connects the Caribbean Sea with the Pacific Ocean. It cuts across the narrowest point of the Isthmus of Panama, and is a conduit for maritime trade between the Atlantic Ocean and the Pacific Ocean.

France began work on the canal in 1881, but stopped in 1889 because of a lack of investors’ confidence due to engineering problems and a high worker mortality rate. The US took over the project in 1904 and opened the canal in 1914. The US continued to control the canal and the surrounding Panama Canal Zone until the Torrijos–Carter Treaties provided for its handover to Panama in 1977. After a period of joint American–Panamanian control, the Panamanian government took control in 1999. It is now managed and operated by the Panamanian government-owned Panama Canal Authority.

The history of the canal is long, complicated, and littered with lost lives. Mike just finished an excellent read about it by David MuCullough: The Path Between the Seas. If one took the time to read every placard in the museum, one might also gain a thorough understanding of the obstacles faced in the canal’s construction.

We also found an art exhibition about migration, especially through the Darien Gap between Colombia and Panama. According to the exhibit: “In recent years, the Darien rainforest has become one of the busiest and most dangerous migration routes in the world. Since 2016, more than one million people have crossed it, facing extreme conditions, violence, and exploitation. In 2023, the number of migrants reached a record 520,000, many of them seeking asylum after fleeing economic crises, conflicts, and persecution in their countries of origin.

“In 2025, the dynamic has changed dramatically. The recent closure of immigration centers in Panama and the mass deportations implemented in the United States have reduced transit through this route by 98%. These measures have forced many migrants to return to their countries, while others seek alternative, often more dangerous, routes.”

The last place we stopped in Casco Viejo, was Victor’s for a Panamanian “Panama hat.” Even though I bought several Panama hats in Ecuador, the true source of Panama hats, in 2022, I figured I should have one from its “Panama” namesake. The hats were misnamed because they were traded through Panama; they didn’t originate here. Still, a brown one was calling my name! 😂🤣🥹

El Cangrejo

After our long hot day, we returned to our condo for a cool-off in the pool. It was way too hot & humid in Panama for me!

Tuesday evening we wandered into El Cangrejo, stopping at a cute shop, M. Saldaña, which sells paintings and other merchandise created by artist Mario Saldaña. Here, I bought a journal and a print. I loved these colorful paintings.

We spent a mellow evening at Pedro Mandinga Rum Bar. The name Ron Pedro Mandinga pays homage to the legend of Pedro Mandinga, a 16th-century Panamanian runaway slave who symbolizes courage and collaboration. His alliance with Sir Francis Drake, showcasing Panama’s rich multicultural heritage, inspires the essence of its Panamanian rum brand.

Ron Pedro Mandinga Panamá was born with the vision of creating an exceptional Panamanian artisanal rum, committed to quality and tradition. Unlike other rums, Pedro Mandinga’s secret lies in the use of artisanal raspadura, the “ancestral sugar” of sugarcane, sourced from the owners’ family farm in the fertile volcanic soils of Boquete.

Amador Causeway

Wednesday, November 12: This morning we caught an Uber to Flamenco Island, the furthest point out on the Amador Causeway, a long and narrow man-made island extending out at the southernmost point of Panama City.

We had read it was a 2km walk to the BioMuseo, but it was actually 4km. We were soaked in sweat by the time we made it to the Biomuseo. We realized quickly that this wasn’t the best way to start our day, but nothing was to be done but to keep walking. We did enjoy views of the boats and the skyline of the city, but it really wasn’t worth doing anything but driving down it.

BioMuseo

The BioMuseo in Panama City was designed by the famous American architect Frank Gehry, his first and only design in Latin America. The design was conceived in 1999 and the museum opened on 2 October 2014. The museum is focused on the natural history of Panama and how it reshaped the entire world.

After our walk down the Amador Causeway, we explored the museum’s colorful galleries showcasing the biodiversity of Panama. Exhibits vary from audiovisuals & sculptures to an ocean gallery with multiple aquariums.

We learned that 70 million years ago, there was no isthmus that connected North and South America. Panama didn’t exist except as a number of underwater volcanoes 🌋 on the ocean floor. Once a land mass was formed above water this opened a corridor for a mass migrational interchange of animals from one continent to the other.

The Human Path, a space partially open to the outdoors, displays 16 columns providing information about human impact on the natural world.

The goal of the museum is to make visitors aware of their personal impact on biodiversity and to encourage them to protect and cherish it.

Mercado de Mariscos

We stopped at the Mercado de Mariscos, the seafood market, where we strolled through the market and then ate a lunch of sea bass and yucca fries.

El Cangrejo

Wednesday night was a fun night out at La Rana Dorada Beer Garden, associated with the Pedro Mandinga Rum Co, where we went Tuesday night. We enjoyed drinking craft beers, playing pool & eating pizza. I won by default because Mike scratched going for the 8 ball. 🎱 . We were extremely rusty at pool! Still. A good time was had by all.

We topped the evening off with some ice cream.

Miraflores Visitor Center & the Panama Canal

Thursday, November 13: Today, we made our way to the Miraflores Visitor Center to see the Panama Canal in action. We stood on the viewing platform with hundreds of other people vying for a spot at the front. It is said that about 30-40 ships go through here each day and we were lucky to see two, a container ship 🚢 and a cruise ship🛳️ . A special pilot from the Panama Authority boards each ship and pilots it through the locks. Only the pilot speaks, and is answered solely by boat horns.

The container ship moved slowly into the lock, pulled by tiny but powerful locomotives on the edges on the locks. Once the lock gates were closed, water filled the chamber, raising the huge ship to the next level, enabling it to leave the lock on the other side. Water rushed in and out of the locks solely by gravity; no pumps were used.

It was a fascinating yet slow-moving spectacle to watch. I wish they had a higher and longer viewing platform as it was difficult jostling with the crowds to get decent views.

The 45-minute IMAX film was a dramatic rendering of the canal’s history; the modern expansion in 2016 which doubled the capacity of the canal and increased the width and depth of the lanes and locks, allowing larger and more ships to pass; and the modern-day operation of the canal.

We had seen the Soo Locks in Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan in 2021, and that was amazing to see as well. I cannot comprehend how these engineering marvels are conceived and built as I don’t have that kind of mind. But it is an amazing thing to behold.

Panama Canal Murals at the Edificio de la Administración del Canal de Panama

The story of the monumental effort to build the Panama Canal is depicted in murals by notable artist William B Van Ingen of New York. The murals are mounted in the rotunda of the Panama Canal Administration Building. The paintings have the distinction of being the largest group of murals by an American artist on display outside the USA.

Museum of Contemporary Art of Panama (Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Panamá), or MAC Panama

The Museum of Contemporary Art of Panama (Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Panamá), popularly called MAC Panamá, is the only museum of contemporary art that exists in Panama. The institution was founded in 1962 as the Panamanian Institute of Art and in 1983 it became the current museum.

We watched a twenty-minute documentary of sorts called “Zone” by Simon Shim-Sutcliffe; “it reflects on how liquid infrastructure operates within the space of abandoned memory and the remnants of successive colonial empires. It offers a poetic and critical reflection on how water reshapes landscapes and histories, becoming a transformative agent of geography and collective memory,” according to the museum.

“Drawing on his family’s heritage as Chinese immigrants who worked on the Canal, Shim-Sutcliffe reflects on erased legacies and the reconstruction of forgotten images, demonstrating how fluid landscapes have been fundamental in guiding our collective fictions of progress. Zone uses archival material, aerial shots, 16mm film and digital, phone recordings, set design and collage to explore the political and cultural forces that have shaped the configuration of this contested site. Water in the work functions not only as a medium but as a character: an agent carving pathways through empires, trade, and memory.”

Another exhibit at MAC Panamá called “Musa” explored feminine universes and visions, interweaving, from diverse positions and perspectives, the specific identity of being a woman. Another brought together a series in which abstraction and formal experimentation articulated a space of spiritual inquiry where feminine subjectivity embraced the fantastic, the dreamlike, and the magical. Yet another brought together works that addressed the political memory and social critique of different historical moments.

lunch in Curundú

When we took an Uber to the neighborhood of Curundú in Panama City, the Uber driver was baffled as to why we were visiting the impoverished area.

The neighborhood is tucked in the heart of Panama City. In the very center of Curundú is the Estadio Juan Démostenes Arosemena, an imposing baseball stadium.

The neighborhood is a vibrant Afro-Panamanian community in one of the most racially and economically unequal countries of the world. It originated as a median between the United States Canal Zone and Panama City: informally planned, with a majority Black or Indigenous population, its culture is unique to its borders. Curundú has a tense relationship with the rest of Panama City and can’t shake off its stigma of poverty, racial stereotypes, and perceived crime.

We were in search of a restaurant called Peach Fuzz International, owned by Danny, the father of a woman, Tae, who has worked with Mike at LMI since 2014. We introduced ourselves to Danny, who seemed upbeat and excited that we had taken the time to visit and bring messages from his daughter, who he hasn’t seen in two years. He advised us to try the shrimp with garlic sauce, which he then painstakingly began to prepare.

Danny’s brother Bryce showed up and we met him. Then Danny’s cousin, Marlin and his wife Diana, who were visiting from LA, showed up with Diana’s mother from Puerto Rico. They all ordered food and Diana said the shrimp with garlic was her favorite. It turned out to be an old family and friends’ gathering. Diana & Bryce said they come once a year to Panama and always visit Danny when they come. It was definitely a cultural immersion in one of Panama’s struggling communities.

El Cangrejo

We spent the afternoon at the pool with Panama beers to cool off from our day out & about.

Celebrating our 37th anniversary at Marques

Our last night in Panama City happened to be our 37th anniversary (13 November), so we toasted our enduring marriage, the ups & downs, with wine & a special dinner out at Marques. I had catch of the day – sea bass fillet with pistachio crust, mussels in coconut milk with lemongrass, ying yang sauce, and blue curaçao. Mike got a Del Bosque: Risotto served with asparagus, mushrooms, and Parmesan with imported beef strips. We shared a brownie with ice cream for dessert. As we are early eaters, we had almost the entire restaurant to ourselves.

Leaving Panama City for Bocas del Toro via Panama Air at Albrook Gelabert Airport

Friday, November 14: This morning we made our way to Albrook Gelabert Airport, Panama City’s domestic airport, to take our 50 minute flight on Air Panama to Bocas del Toro. We waited around a lot; there was really no need to arrive 2 hours early. We found a huge puzzle on the wall showing the whole of Panama City.

Here is a video of our time in Panama City, including the slow-moving ships going through the Panama Canal.

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  • Alajuela
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  • Bijagua

the october cocktail hour: a trip to virginia, a NO KINGS protest, two birthday celebrations, & a cattle auction

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 October 31, 2025

October 31, 2025: Welcome to our October cocktail hour. Let’s have a Río Celeste Guaro, an icy blue drink that mirrors the blue waters of the Río Celeste in Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio. We can enjoy breezes and sunset views over Volcanoes Tenorio and Miravalles, and maybe we’ll be lucky to see or hear some of the 17 birds I’ve added to the Merlin app this month, including a Yellow-throated Toucan, Summer Tanager, Bananaquit, Piratic Flycatcher, Buff-throated Saltator, Scarlet-rumped Tanager, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Great Antshrike, Bright-rumped Attila, and Tody Motmot. We invite you to celebrate my 70th birthday with us at Celeste Mountain Lodge near Volcán Tenorio. You can even come along vicariously on our return home to Virginia for two weeks, go to the pumpkin patch with the family, celebrate our granddaughter’s second birthday, stroll through Meadowlark Botanical Gardens, and sip wines at a winery.

I have a variety of soda, seltzer water, or bebida de aloe for those of you who don’t drink. Mike can also whip up some excellent smoothies. Thanks for joining us in our escape into a peaceful corner of the world.

October marked our fifth month in Guanacaste, Costa Rica. It was in most ways a busy month and in some ways a laid-back, homebody-type month.

A two-week return to the US for Allie’s birthday & other business

We flew out of Guanacaste Airport in Liberia on the first of the month. Our friend Bruce drove us to the airport and there, we met Adam and his friend Jon, who happened to be flying on the same flight as us to Miami. Adam had called us the night before to tell us he was returning to the U.S. for a job, and we were all surprised he had happened to book on the same flight. What a nice alignment of the universe.

In Miami, Adam and Jon flew on to Washington State, and we flew onward to Reagan International in D.C., where we arrived close to midnight.

Family Affairs in Virginia

On Friday night, our daughter Sarah came up to our house from Richmond to spend the weekend with us. We were thrilled to have her. She always adds so much joy to every occasion.

Temple Hill Farm and Barnhouse Brewery

On Saturday, all of us went to Temple Hill Farm for a pumpkin patch, games, drinks, and hay rides. It was hotter than I would have liked, but we had a good time anyway.

After our time at the pumpkin patch, we went to Barnhouse Brewery for some craft beers.

Allie’s 2nd birthday

We celebrated Allie’s birthday on Sunday, October 5, with everyone in attendance, including Aunt Sarah and Great Aunt Barbara. Sarah and Alex made a delicious frittata based on Sydney’s “Omelette” from The Bear because Sarah knew I loved that Boursin cheese omelette topped with Sour Cream & Onion potato chips. They also made sausages, blueberry pancakes and mimosas. They brought out a cake with birthday wishes for Allie (2) and me (70 – although my birthday wasn’t until the 25th).

Allie got lots of gifts and was of course the center of attention in her little princess dress.

Meadowlark Botanical Gardens

On Sunday, October 12, Jandira had to work, so we went with Alex and Allie to Meadowlark Botanical Gardens. Allie got to climb on the gazebo and see the Korean statues, the bell tower, ponds and flowers. She especially loved the butterfly bench.

Babysitting Allie

Sunday night we babysat Allie while Alex and Jandira went out to dinner at Tsunami Sushi. We had fun listening and singing to songs, watching Bluey, eating dinner, and putting together gear puzzles and blocks.

Old Farm Winery at Hartland

On Monday, October 13, (Indigenous People’s Day), our last full day in the U.S., Jandira had the day off so we all went to Old Farm Winery in Hartland. We had pizza, pita chips and dip, a bottle of Viognier and a Cabernet Sauvignon. Allie had fun running around in her leopard print dress and “leather” jacket, a birthday gift from her Aunt Sarah.

Dining out in Virginia

We dined out while we were in Virginia, some new places as well as some old standbys. Our first night back, on October 2, we took the family to Bear Branch Tavern, where Allie was well behaved and we were warmed by a fire pit outdoors. On the night of the Hunter’s Moon, we met our friends Karen and Michael at Lantern House Kitchen & Bar, an Asian fusion place we’d never before tried. Mike and I went to one of our favorites, Mazadar in Fairfax, where we lounged on pillows and shared a bottle of wine.

Homebody stuff in Virginia

We had booked the tickets home at the same time we booked our tickets to Costa Rica, mainly to be home to celebrate our granddaughter Allie’s 2nd birthday. We spent a lot of time hanging out around the house with the family. Mike and I also had various doctor and dentist appointments, voted a straight Democratic ticket for governor of Virginia and other statewide offices, and got our COVID and flu shots. I had a haircut and pedicure and a couple of trigger point massages while I was there, and I had to see the dentist three times, once for mouth pain I was having, once for a cleaning, and once for a filling. I took some of my familiar walks in northern Virginia. Mike and I also accompanied Alex to Big Blue Swim School for Allie’s weekly swim lesson.

Returning to Costa Rica via Miami

On Tuesday the 14th, we got up at 2:30 a.m. to catch an Uber to Reagan National outside of D.C. for a 5:00 a.m. flight to Miami. After a 3-hour layover, we flew home to Costa Rica. Our trusty neighbor Bruce picked us up in our Mitsubishi at the Guanacaste Airport in Liberia at 11:45 Costa Rica time. After a 1 1/2 hour drive, we opened the house, which was like a greenhouse after being closed up for two weeks. As we waited for it to cool off, a huge thunderstorm let loose overhead and our power went out for about an hour.

We unpacked all the stuff we brought from Virginia, including over 30 books.

Dining out in Costa Rica

Upon arriving back in Costa Rica, we went to Soda El Nilo on a foggy night with birds in Tilarán making a cacophony of noise; there we learned of the famous Leche dormida (sleeping milk). Darrell and Farida invited us to their house for smoked chicken, corn, smashed potatoes and lots of Chilean wine which they generously shared from their recent trip to Argentina, Chile and Uruguay. One rainy day we went to Sodita El Mercado, a local Tico spot in a food court in Tilarán. After protesting at a NO KINGS protest in Nuevo Arenal, we went with Darrell, Farida, & Carol to Los Platillos Voladores (“Flying Saucers”), EatAlienFood, where we enjoyed pizzas, lasagna and ravioli. Mike and I had a lunch out at Soda Doña Chila in Trondaora.

On Thursday the 30th, we had what I would liken to a fall day in Virginia. My personal trainer Nela texted me a frozen grimacing face and we saw Costa Ricans wearing parkas. Meanwhile, I was still wearing shorts and it seemed the perfect day to me. We went partway around the lake to Café & Macadamia, a place we hadn’t visited since shortly after we arrived here in June. It was sunny and breezy and we enjoyed magnificent views over the lake. I got a tall lemonade with fresh basil that tasted a bit like pesto; Mike had a tamarind juice. I had a lasagna with chicken and white sauce while Mike had a special we’ve been looking forward to trying: Pastel de Yucca, or Yucca (Cassava) Shepherd’s Pie stuffed with beef and tomato sauce. It was a rather heavy lunch so when we returned home, I relaxed and read a book I was trying to finish by month-end: At Home in Mitford by Jan Karon.

A NO KINGS protest in Nuevo Arenal

I got a message the week we returned from someone in our yoga group about a NO KINGS protest being organized in Nuevo Arenal for Saturday morning, October 18 at 11:00. We let our friends Carol, Darrell and Farida know about it and told them we planned to go if they wanted to attend as well. Darrell and Carol came to our house first where we drew up some quick posters and then drove together to the meeting point at Tracy’s house. We got a bit lost so we were a little late for the largest of two gatherings, this one of about two dozen people. We all chanted “This is what democracy looks like!” Then we met a few others in front of the gymnasium in Nuevo Arenal where cars driving past could see our protest.

My 70th birthday celebration at Celeste Mountain Lodge & Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio

On my birthday weekend, October 24-26, we drove about 1 hour 45 minutes north to Bijagua, where we stayed at Celeste Mountain Lodge for two nights. Bijagua is near Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio 🌋, home to an inactive but huge volcano that covers much of the area north of Lago Arenal. 

We stopped just south of Upala at the Colibrí Organic Chocolate factory, PilHio, where owner Giovanni gave us a little tour of the factory after suiting us up in hair nets & brown shirts and having us leave behind our watches, bags and jewelry. He showed us where they ferment and dry the cacao beans, where they dehydrate pineapple and other flavors they add to the chocolate, and where they mix the chocolate, put it in molds and package it. 

While in that area, we ate a lunch in Upala at Bajo Mundo where I had the typical pescada de la plancha and Mike had Mexican tacos. We also had Imperial and Pilsen beers.

We arrived at the beautiful Celeste Mountain Lodge at around 2:30. The lodge’s decor revolves around an open-air concept, where guests feel the outdoors is enveloping them in a magical cocoon. Painted corrugated iron is used to great effect in decor and light fixtures. We had wonderful couples massages at 4:00.

Friday night we had drinks and dinner at Celeste Mountain Lodge, where once again the French chef outdid himself. We had a cold appetizer of Ceviche of Water Squash (chayote), a Tilapia filet with Lemon-Piperacia (wild bush) sauce, and Mike had Beef tenderloin Chimichuri. Mike had a blue dessert, Río Celeste: Lemon and ginger cream & Curaçao. The sleeping was good in our blue room with fall-like breezes wafting in through the window slats.

Saturday morning, we did a 3.7 mile hike that was partly strenuous due to steep climbs and descents and wet slippery rocks and mud. The rest of our hike at Rio Celeste, the blue river, took us to the blue pools, the bubbling sulfur pools, and bridges across the blue river.

Lunch at YeYe’s Restaurante brought a few treats. Mike mentioned to the owner Jorge that today was my birthday, and we were surprised when the family brought out a plantain desert with a candle and sang “Happy birthday” to me. 

We enjoyed a fabulous birthday dinner at the lodge. I sipped wine & Mike a Scotch while talking to the French owner Joel, who has been in Costa Rica for 18 years. He has a beautiful house on the hotel property as well as a house in San Jose where his Brazilian wife and daughter live. He’s from the Loire Valley but is also a Canadian citizen. We commiserated about the orange menace in the White House, and it was great to hear the Canadian perspective.

I ate Tilapia with dill sauce, accompanied by scalloped potatoes and a squash soufflé with caramelized onions. Mike had Chicken with a Passionfruit Sauce. The staff brought out a mousse fringed with flower petals and everyone in the restaurant sang a rousing “Happy Birthday.” The food at this restaurant is superb and is prepared in a spotless open kitchen by the long-time French chef there.

What a wonderful atmosphere in which to usher in my next decade.

Drives, walks and local explorations

We took a walk down Peninsula 1 one day, and another walk on the gravel roads behind the pickleball courts where we encountered some of the local animals.

Tilarán’s Friday Cattle Auction

Every Friday in Tilarán there is a cattle auction just outside of town called Subasta Ganadera Tilarán (Livestock Auction). On Friday (Halloween) we finally decided to go and see what it was about. When we arrived we strolled over the walkways to inspect the cattle and then shared a lunch and some beers. The whole affair was fascinating to watch; the cattle were pushed through a chute onto a stage/scale in front of the auctioneer, they were poked and prodded to make them turn to and fro like models on a runway, and then they were rushed off the stage through another chute where they were set aside for buyers to take home in their red, white and blue cattle trucks. The auctioneer spoke so fast, we couldn’t understand a word he was saying, but the identifying number, price, and the weight of each cow were displayed for the audience to see. Sitting in the audience, I was afraid to move in fear we might go home inadvertently with a whole herd of cattle. 🙂

Homebody stuff in Costa Rica

Once back in Costa Rica, I had my hair straightened. I know a different product was used, so I’m not sure about the longevity of the treatment, but time will tell. I also had an appointment with Dra. Jessica María Ugalde Rodriguez at Alma Wellness & Dental Care who couldn’t find a lesion in my mouth but gave me an order for a tomographia (tomography) to be done in Liberia, which I’ve scheduled for the first week in November.

On Monday the 27th, I met Nela, a personal trainer at Monster Gym, for an assessment of my health and physical well-being. She said I’m in great health and did better on the assessments than some of her younger clients. I had misunderstood the cost of her training, and when I found out how much she charges I was flabbergasted. I don’t know how long I’ll work with her, but I will at least do five days of training before we leave for Panama on November 9.

I finished 2 books in October, bringing my total to 38/48; this really puts me behind schedule to reach my goal. Of the two I read, I enjoyed the quirky novel by Jan Karon, At Home in Mitford. We watched one movie, Limpia (Swim to Me) which was just okay. We finished watching Toxic Town and Long Bright River, both of which we loved, as well as Togetherness and If Only. We finished a season of Fisk and Diary of a Ditched Girl. We continued watching Younger, Seinfeld, Platonic, Angela,Unforgotten, The Morning Show, The Diplomat, and Pernille. We also started the mini-series Adolescence, which is intense and addictive from the first moment.

Family Happenings from afar

The weekend of the 18th-19th, Mía got silver medals at a gymnastics competition in Managua. Andrea also won five gold medals! Adam had originally been hoping to return to Nicaragua for this event, but he was still in California working. He made it home to Ometepe on Friday the 24th.

The family in Virginia went to Flying Ace Distillery & Brewery in Lovettsville, VA. Mike and I have been to this place before and loved it; one time we took Alex with us. Both Alex and Jandira are struggling with shoulder pain so they almost didn’t go out, but when they forced themselves to go anyway, they had a marvelous time. Another day the family went to Meadowlark Botanical Gardens. We love when the family sends pictures. It brightens our days here considerably.

The Fall Bingo Card

I checked off quite a few things on my Fall Bingo Card in October. Some I checked off in Virginia, and some in Costa Rica. During our time in the U.S., I checked off the following:

  • Paint toenails coral
  • Take a scenic fall drive in Virginia (well, it wasn’t THAT scenic – too much traffic!)
  • Family time: Allie’s birthday, see Alex, Jandira and Sarah (& Mike’s sister Barbara)
  • Have two trigger point massages at Massage Therapy Works
  • Get 2026 calendar and bring back 2026 bullet journal

When we returned to Costa Rica, I checked off:

  • Try an open water swim in the lake. Now that I have a bright neon buoy to make myself visible to boats, new goggles and a swim cap, I feel much more comfortable swimming in the cove off Lake Arenal.
  • I didn’t have the NO KINGS protest on my Bingo Card, but I should have!
  • 70th birthday at Celeste Mountain Lodge, Río Celeste, and Massage
  • Put together one puzzle: “Hummingbirds”
  • Spa Day & Massage – I had two trigger point massages in the U.S. and Mike and I had couples massages at Celeste Mountain Lodge.
  • Make 2 bean soups: a black bean soup and a garbanzo & chorizo soup with spinach.
  • Find 10 new birds in Costa Rica on Merlin. Over the entire weekend, I added 17 new birds, as well as 2 on September 27. Some of the birds from Celeste Mountain Lodge and Río Celeste included: Yellow-throated Toucan, Summer Tanager, Bananaquit, Piratic Flycatcher, Buff-throated Saltator, Scarlet-rumped Tanager, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Great Antshrike, Bright-rumped Attila, and Tody Motmot. I love the names of these tropical birds! We heard most of these from our corner room at Celeste Mountain Lodge.
  • Cattle auction Friday (10/31)
  • Wearing one of my cowboy t-shirts (of which I have 11 + a cowboy scarf!)
  • I read 4/13 books.
My Fall Bingo Card as of 10/31/25

Completing our 1,000 piece “Hummingbirds” puzzle was an accomplishment – and quite addictive!

On my Costa Rica blog, you can find my weekly recaps of our lives in Costa Rica for the month of October:

  • a return to virginia to see family & a granddaughter’s 2nd birthday {week 18/52}
  • a week in virginia: a swim lesson, family time, meeting friends & taking care of business {week 19/52}
  • a winery visit, returning to costa rica after two weeks in the u.s., dinner with friends & a NO KINGS protest {week 20/52}
  • celebrating my 70th birthday near volcán tenorio (& a hair straightening & dentist appointment) {week 21/52}
*********

I hope you’ll share how the year is panning out for you, and what plans you have for the fall and the rest of this year.

How did your October go? Did you have any special family gatherings? Have you welcomed any new additions to your family?  Did you celebrate any birthdays or anniversaries? Have you read any good books that can inform your worldview, seen any good movies, binge-watched any television series? Have you planned any adventures or had any autumn getaways? Have you dreamed any dreams? Have you gone to any exotic restaurants, cooked any new dishes? Have you been surprised by anything in life? Have you marked off activities on your Fall Bingo card? Did you get spooky on Halloween? Have you played new games or put together puzzles? Have you made any new friends? Have you learned anything new, taken any classes or just kept up with the news? Have you sung along with any new songs? Have you undertaken any new exercise routines? Have you marched or otherwise participated in political protests? Have you been battered, or alternately, uplifted by any news?

Please share your October with me by giving me the plot below, or a link to a post in your blog that tells about your month.

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  • Central America
  • Cocktail Hour
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the september cocktail hour: a nicoya peninsula getaway, a horseback ride to la piedra del indio waterfalls & a fall bingo card

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 September 30, 2025

September 30, 2025: Welcome to our September cocktail hour. Let’s have a Trinidad Sour (whiskey and almond syrup), a delicious drink we shared on the Nicoya Peninsula. You can join us vicariously on our getaway to Sámara and Nosara on the Nicoya Peninsula. We can enjoy breezes and sunset views, and maybe we can take a walk on a pebbly beach. Better yet, you can come along on our horseback ride to La Piedra del Indio Waterfalls and take a dip in the refreshing pool at the bottom. Sunset is is now at around 5:30 every night; twilight brings with it lots of mosquitoes, so be sure to slather on the mosquito repellent.

I have a variety of soda, seltzer water, or bebida de aloe for those of you who don’t drink. Mike can also whip up some excellent smoothies with pitaya, strawberries, bananas or any other fruit we have on hand. Thanks for joining us in our escape into a peaceful corner of the world.

September marked our fourth month in Guanacaste, Costa Rica. It was in some ways a busy month and in other ways a laid-back, homebody-type month. We had a getaway to the Nicoya Peninsula, one of five “Blue Zones” in the world where people often live active lives to over 100. We also took an amazing horseback ride to La Piedra del Indio Waterfalls. We have also been preparing to go to the U.S. for two weeks beginning October 1.

Dining out

We dined out at more new places as well as some old standbys this month. We tried out Marisquería Lago Arenal, which specializes in seafood, for lunch. We enjoyed snacks and amazing views of the lake at Chicharronera one sunny afternoon. We met Darrell and Farida on Friday night the 5th at an old standby, Restaurante Brisas del Lago, where we enjoyed wine and delicious seafood and chicken. This would be the last time we’d see them until mid-October because they were taking off for a 3-week trip to Argentina, Chile and Uruguay; they would return home on October 1, the day we would leave for 2 weeks in the U.S. Mike and I also tried out Chafi’s Restaurante, another seafood place, on Sunday the 7th. When we returned from Sámara, we went to Café con Amor, Jackie Ruíz’s café, for a pop-up craft market and live marimba music to celebrate the beginning of Costa Rican Independence Day. Later that evening, we went to Tilatacos to eat before going to check out the ‘faroles’ parade: homemade lanterns symbolizing the original freedom torch. We went to our first Chinese restaurant, Restaurante El Lago, which was a mediocre experience. On the other hand, we enjoyed a lovely dinner with our friend Carol at Restaurante Brisas del Lago, where we talked about her deceased husband Carlos as well as her new responsibilities as a cattle rancher with 83 head of breeding cattle. We tried out a German place, Hotel La Rana (frog) de Arenal Restaurante, where the German owner showed us 30+ year old photos of him with Collared Acaris, toucans with a special serrated design on their beaks. We enjoyed a breezy and chill night at Paseo del Viento where we had fancy drinks from DrinKing and sushi from Wabi Sabi Sushi while enjoying Spanish conversations and a beautiful sunset. Finally, we went to El Corral Restaurante BBQ in Aguacate for a tuna special with caper sauce. There we met a group of Americans who invited us to join them on Thursday mornings for breakfast at El Corral. Finally, we took our friend Bruce out to dinner at La Pasadita to repay him in advance for taking us to the airport on October 1 and picking us up on the 14th.

A getaway to the Nicoya Peninsula

From September 9-12, we drove about 2 1/2 hours to the Nicoya Peninsula, supposedly one of five “blue zones” on the planet. A blue zone is a region in the world where people are claimed to have exceptionally long lives beyond the age of 100 due to a lifestyle combining physical activity, low stress, rich social interactions, a local whole foods diet, and low disease incidence. 

Suggested blue zones include Okinawa, Japan; Sardinia, Italy; the Nicoya Peninsula in Costa Rica; Loma Linda, California; and Ikaria, Greece. A book by National Geographic Fellow and explorer Dan Buettner, The Blue Zones: Secrets for Living Longer, explores this concept more fully.

The two places we visited on the Nicoya Peninsula, Sámara and Nosara, are in the northern part of the peninsula, in Guanacaste. We enjoyed the Hotel Bahia Beach Front, which had a fantastic happy hour and a great sunset vibe, although it faced south and didn’t offer a real sunset view; it sat in front of a pebbly beach with not much to offer in the way of comfort.

The things we liked best about this place were the nightly beachfront happy hours, an early morning walk on the beach at low tide showcasing spectacular cloud reflections, and the visit to Nosara, where I got to do some shopping and we enjoyed a Mediterranean lunch at Restaurante La Luna. We also loved our Italian dinner at Ahora Sí!

a horseback ride to la piedra del indio waterfalls

Thursday morning the 25th, we finally did something we’ve talked about doing for a long time. We drove about 35 minutes south, through Tilarán and beyond (towards Monteverde) to La Piedra del Indio Waterfalls (“the Indian stone waterfalls”) where we had booked a horseback ride to the waterfalls trailhead. Our guide Alejandro got us mounted up and we began our ride first down paved and then gravel roads to the trailhead for the waterfalls. After hiking to the bottom, we cooled off in a refreshing pool and then made our way back up, where we mounted our horses again and returned on a different route over mountains ridges with stunning views of the countryside. Exhausted from the 4-hour excursion, we enjoyed lunch at the little on-site restaurant.

Drives, walks and local explorations

On Saturday the 6th, we took a new walk starting at the top of San Luis by the pickleball courts and up a gravel road to a ridge with amazing vistas.

We took a walk on Thursday the 18th up to the cross at Parque del Viento just outside of Tilaran. We had been up there by car before, but this was the first time we walked it. We saw the windmill blade on which Liz, a Costa Rican woman who sells goat milk yogurt and cheeses to us weekly, painted the murals.

On Sunday the 21st, we also took our 4-mile loop walk from our house to Tronadora and back. On Saturday the 27th, we walked up the gravel road above the pickleball courts in San Luis again for more amazing views.

Costa Rican Independence Day

Costa Rica’s Independence Day, which fell on Monday, September 15th, commemorates the independence of the entirety of Central America from Spain, which took place in 1821. Independence Day festivities began on Sunday the 14th, with the reenactment of the notification of Costa Rica’s liberation by relay teams carrying the “freedom torch.”  One of the traditions on the night before Independence Day is a parade of faroles, homemade lanterns symbolizing the original freedom torch. We didn’t participate in any of the actual Independence Day celebrations.

Finishing up the Summer Bingo Card and beginning the Fall Bingo Card

I wrapped up my Summer Bingo Card with only two things undone: “boat ride on the lake” and “tubing on a river.” I was also one book short on reading 12 books. Everything else was checked off. I definitely got several Bingos!

I created my Fall Bingo Card (September 22-December 20); it’s full of all kinds of plans! Some include going home to Virginia for two weeks and seeing the family, celebrating my 70th birthday at Celeste Mountain Lodge, going to Panama (Panama City and Bocas del Toro) in November, attending a cattle auction, putting together at least 2 of the 4 puzzles we bought, moving into our new home at Lake Arenal Condos, making lots of bean soups and root vegetable recipes, and exploring some towns in Costa Rica’s Central Valley as well as Poás Volcano and surrounding waterfalls. The items that will push me out of my comfort zone are “snorkeling in Bocas del Toro” (I don’t enjoy swimming in the ocean with sea creatures) and “try an open water swim in the lake” (Mike and I have ordered some neon swim buoys which I hope will make me more comfortable as I’ll be more visible to boats). The Bingo Card also includes planning my goals for 2026, one of my favorite things to do. Dreaming is my strong suit for sure! 🙂

I already checked off “Go Horseback Riding” on September 25. And we started our 1,000 piece “Hummingbirds” puzzle (rompecabezas in Spanish).

Birds, flora & other Costa Rican wildlife

I was able to catch a shot of a Montezuma Oropendola early in the month. The trees have more leaves on them now, making it difficult to capture the birds in photos. We spotted a Crested Guan, a very large, long-tailed game bird of tropical and subtropical forest. The plumage is dark overall (often looks blackish) with a bright red throat wattle; white streaking is visible at closer range. The crest is bushy and usually not a striking feature. We found another of the family of green lizards that live under our walkway.

The last week of September we found a new bird, a Bare-throated Tiger-Heron. We saw a pair of them making grunting noises up in the tree outside our house but our Merlin app wasn’t picking up the sound. I was able to get some photos and Merlin identified the birds from the photo. They kept us entertained for a long time on Saturday morning.

Homebody stuff

Early in the month, we had mostly rainy days, but the latter half of the month has been hot! We did enjoy a couple of pool days. We finally took some pictures of our favorite vegetable market in Tilarán, Hortifress.

On Friday, we met with the property manager, Carla, at Lake Arenal Condos to make sure things are done to our specifications in the condo we’ll be renting beginning November 29. We also enjoyed some beautiful sunsets.

I finished 5 books in September, bringing my total to 36/48. I especially enjoyed What We Owe by Golnaz Hashemzadeh Bonde. We watched four movies: a Mexican family drama called Familia; The Unforgivable starring Sandra Bullock; a mediocre Turkish movie called Sen Büyümeye Bak (In Good Hands 2); and French Lover, starring Omar Sy, that we really enjoyed. We started watching a couple of new series: Toxic Town and Diary of a Ditched Girl (Halva Malmö består av killar som dumpat mig). We continued watching Younger, Seinfeld, Togetherness, Platonic, Fisk, If Only, The Morning Show (S4), and Pernille. We finished watching Maid (depressing yet fabulous!), Territory, and Hostage.

Family Affairs

In Ometepe, Adam has been busy clearing the land for his cows and planting grass. He also built a gate to put up at the entrance to his property. Besides, they always have various family activities going on. We can’t wait to see them again in January.

On Sunday the 14th, Alex, Jandira and Allie went to Richmond to visit our daughter Sarah. Together with some of Sarah’s friends, they all went to a Flying Squirrels baseball game, the last one to be played at The Diamond in Richmond. Future games will be played at CarMax Park. Sadly the Flying Squirrels lost 5-2 to the Hartford Yard Goats, but that didn’t dampen the family’s enthusiasm for the event.

You can find my weekly recaps of our lives in Costa Rica for the month of September on my Costa Rica blog:

  • expanding our dining experiences, a new walk & giving notice of our move to a new place {week 14/52}
  • in search of longevity: exploring the nicoya peninsula & other random stuff {week 15/52}
  • costa rican independence day & checking out our new home-to-be {week 16/52}
  • the fall bingo card: a “hummingbirds” puzzle, spanish practice & a horseback ride to a waterfall {week 17/52}
*********

I hope you’ll share how the year is panning out for you, and what plans you have for the fall and the rest of this year.

How did your September go? Did you have any special family gatherings? Have you welcomed any new additions to your family?  Did you celebrate any birthdays or anniversaries? Have you read any good books that can inform your worldview, seen any good movies, binge-watched any television series? Have you planned any adventures or had any shoulder season getaways? Have you dreamed any dreams? Have you gone to any exotic restaurants, cooked any new dishes? Have you been surprised by anything in life? Have you marked off activities on your Summer Bingo card? Have you created a Fall Bingo Card? Have you made any new friends? Have you had any end-of-the-summer-season getaways? Have you learned anything new, taken any classes or just kept up with the news? Have you sung along with any new songs? Have you undertaken any new exercise routines? Have you marched or otherwise participated in political protests? Have you been battered, or alternately, uplifted by any news?

Please share your September with me by giving me the plot below, or a link to a post in your blog that tells about your month.

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  • Alajuela
  • Cañas
  • Central America

the august cocktail hour: local gatherings, la fortuna adventures, & a “desfile de caballistas” 

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 September 1, 2025

August 31, 2025: Welcome to our August cocktail hour. Let’s have a piña colada and pretend we’re drinking it on a rooftop. We can enjoy breezes and sunset views, and maybe we’ll be lucky enough to see Keel-billed Toucans and Red-lored Parrots. You can even come along vicariously on our getaway to La Fortuna near Volcán Arenal. Sunset is is now at around 5:30 every night; twilight brings with it lots of mosquitoes, so be sure to slather on the mosquito repellent.

I have a variety of soda, seltzer water, or bebida de aloe for those of you who don’t drink. Mike can also whip up some excellent smoothies. Thanks for joining us in our escape into a peaceful corner of the world.

August marked our third month in Guanacaste, Costa Rica. It was in some ways a busy month and in other ways a laid-back, homebody-type month.

Our last day in Tamarindo

We left Tamarindo on the 1st of August after taking an early morning walk on the beach. On our way home, we stopped at Panamar for seafood.

Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
Tamarindo Beach
BOHO Tamarindo
BOHO Tamarindo

Dining out with a few musical interludes

This month we tried out more local restaurants. We ate pizza at Gutierrez Family Pizzeria Express and enjoyed Taco Tuesday at Lake Arenal Brewery while being serenaded by Charly Lopez from Uruguay. We went to the dilapidated-looking Equus for fish fingers and BBQ pork on the 8th. We sampled sushi at Wabi Sabi Sushi on the 9th and ate lunch at Hacienda La Pacifica Eco-Lodge on the 12th after visiting the Puma Sanctuary. Anne and Jack rewarded us for our time, after we spent two-hours witnessing their will-signing in Nuevo Arenal, by treating us to lunch at Restaurante Tinajas on the 14th. On Dia de las Madres (Assumption Day/Mother’s Day), we went with Anne and Jack to a Cuban event at Lake Arenal Brewery with Olsen del Toro singing and his mother cooking Cuban food for a tasting menu. We had a lunch out at Soda La Macha in Rio Piedras and enjoyed dinner and drinks with our friend Carol, who lost her husband Carlos at the end of July, at Plaza Paseo de Viento. We had dinner with our friend from the gym, Darrell and his wife Farida at Restaurante Linda Vista, and the next day, Mike and I enjoyed cocktails on the rooftop at Paseo del Viento while watching a thunderstorm move in. We also enjoyed a dinner at Vento Bistro before attending the last event, a dancing activity, of the Celebramos 102 Años de Cantonato (de Tilarán) del 21-31 Agosto 2025. 

me at Gutierrez Family Pizzeria Express
me at Gutierrez Family Pizzeria Express
Mike at Gutierrez Family Pizzeria Express
Mike at Gutierrez Family Pizzeria Express
Gutierrez Family Pizzeria Express
Gutierrez Family Pizzeria Express
Gutierrez Family Pizzeria Express
Gutierrez Family Pizzeria Express
Taco Tuesday at Lake Arenal Brewery with Charly Lopez from Uruguay
Taco Tuesday at Lake Arenal Brewery with Charly Lopez from Uruguay
Taco Tuesday at Lake Arenal Brewery with Charly Lopez from Uruguay
Taco Tuesday at Lake Arenal Brewery with Charly Lopez from Uruguay
Anne & Jack at Taco Tuesday
Anne & Jack at Taco Tuesday
Lunch at Equus
Lunch at Equus
Lunch at Equus
Lunch at Equus
Lunch at Equus
Lunch at Equus
Restaurante Tinajas
Restaurante Tinajas
Jack, Nixon, me and Anne at Restaurante Tinajas
Jack, Nixon, me and Anne at Restaurante Tinajas
Anne and Jack at Restaurante Tinajas
Anne and Jack at Restaurante Tinajas
mural at Restaurante Tinajas
mural at Restaurante Tinajas
Cuban night at Lake Arenal Brewery with Olsen del Toro and his mother
Cuban night at Lake Arenal Brewery with Olsen del Toro and his mother
Anne & Jack at Lake Arenal Brewery
Anne & Jack at Lake Arenal Brewery
Mike at Lake Arenal Brewery
Mike at Lake Arenal Brewery
me with Anne at Lake Arenal Brewery
me with Anne at Lake Arenal Brewery
Plaza Paseo del Viento
Plaza Paseo del Viento
Carol and Mike atPaseo del Viento
Carol and Mike atPaseo del Viento
Carol and me at Paseo del Viento
Carol and me at Paseo del Viento
me at Soda La Macha
me at Soda La Macha
Mike at Soda La Macha
Mike at Soda La Macha
me at Soda La Macha
me at Soda La Macha
Darrell & Farida at Restaurante Linda Vista
Darrell & Farida at Restaurante Linda Vista
comida typica at Restaurante Linda Vista
comida typica at Restaurante Linda Vista
me, Darrell, Farida and Mike at Restaurante Linda Vista
me, Darrell, Farida and Mike at Restaurante Linda Vista
me with daiquiri at Paseo del Viento
me with daiquiri at Paseo del Viento
drinks at Paseo del Viento
drinks at Paseo del Viento
Mike at Paseo del Viento
Mike at Paseo del Viento
Mike at Vento Bistro
Mike at Vento Bistro
Me at Vento Bistro
Me at Vento Bistro
view of Tilarán's city park from Vento Bistro
view of Tilarán’s city park from Vento Bistro

Drives, walks and local explorations

We drove on a gravel road to El Silencio, where we found some amazing views. We continued our walks around Tronadora: the gravel road to Santiago’s pitaya farm, two attempts to walk on Peninsula 2, and one walk on Peninsula 1, and the 4-mile loop from our door to Tronadora and back.

walk up gravel road from Tronadora to Santiago's pitaya farm
walk up gravel road from Tronadora to Santiago’s pitaya farm
walk up gravel road from Tronadora to Santiago's pitaya farm
walk up gravel road from Tronadora to Santiago’s pitaya farm
Santiago's pitaya farm
Santiago’s pitaya farm
walk up gravel road from Tronadora to Santiago's pitaya farm
walk up gravel road from Tronadora to Santiago’s pitaya farm
Drive to El Silencio
Drive to El Silencio
Drive to El Silencio
Drive to El Silencio
Drive to El Silencio
Drive to El Silencio
first attempt to walk on Peninsula 2
first attempt to walk on Peninsula 2
first attempt to walk on Peninsula 2
first attempt to walk on Peninsula 2
first attempt to walk on Peninsula 2
first attempt to walk on Peninsula 2
Walk on Peninsula 1 in Tronadora
Walk on Peninsula 1 in Tronadora
Walk on Peninsula 1 in Tronadora - sighting of Volcán Arenal
Walk on Peninsula 1 in Tronadora – sighting of Volcán Arenal
Walk on Peninsula 1 in Tronadora
Walk on Peninsula 1 in Tronadora
Walk on Peninsula 1 in Tronadora
Walk on Peninsula 1 in Tronadora
a horseman & 2 horses in San Luis
a horseman & 2 horses in San Luis
view from our 4 mile loop in Tronadora
view from our 4 mile loop in Tronadora
horse on Peninsula 1
horse on Peninsula 1
horses on Peninsula 1
horses on Peninsula 1
Walk around Tronadora
Walk around Tronadora

Four days/three nights in La Fortuna

On Tuesday (8/19) through Friday (August 22) we took a trip to La Fortuna, the area around Volcán Arenal at the east end of Lake Arenal. We explored new places, activities and experiences that made this one of our best weeks in Costa Rica so far. We enjoyed upscale thermal springs from Volcán Arenal at Baldi Hot Springs; went whitewater rafting on the Class III-IV Río Sarapiqui; descended 517 steps to the Catarata Río Fortuna and swam in the surrounding pools; hiked a boring trail at Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal; enjoyed a mediocre massage at Spa Luz de Luna; and visited Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park in the rainforest of La Fortuna. We really enjoyed our trip to this area.

Café con Amor in Nuevo Arenal
Café con Amor in Nuevo Arenal
me, Jackie Ruíz and Mike at Café con Amor
me, Jackie Ruíz and Mike at Café con Amor
me at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
me at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
Mike at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
Mike at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
Mike at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
Mike at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
me at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
me at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
Mike doing tree pose at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
Mike doing tree pose at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
view of Volcán Arenal from Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
view of Volcán Arenal from Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
sauna at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
sauna at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
tropical plants at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
tropical plants at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
Spicy Sloth and Green Gin at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
Spicy Sloth and Green Gin at Baldi Hot Springs Resort & Spa
Yellow Tree Suites
Yellow Tree Suites
Sunny's Indian in La Fortuna
Sunny’s Indian in La Fortuna
Sunny's Indian in La Fortuna
Sunny’s Indian in La Fortuna
Mike & me on our whitewater rafting trip
Mike & me on our whitewater rafting trip
whitewater rafting on the Río Sarapiqui
whitewater rafting on the Río Sarapiqui
whitewater rafting on the Río Sarapiqui
whitewater rafting on the Río Sarapiqui
whitewater rafting on the Río Sarapiqui
whitewater rafting on the Río Sarapiqui
Me with Mike at our break on the whitewater rafting trip
Me with Mike at our break on the whitewater rafting trip
Mike jumps into the Río Sarapiqui
Mike jumps into the Río Sarapiqui
Me, Mike, Carlos and Monica from Madrid on our whitewater rafting trip
Me, Mike, Carlos and Monica from Madrid on our whitewater rafting trip
view of Volcán Arenal from Yellow Tree Suites
view of Volcán Arenal from Yellow Tree Suites
me at Catarata Río Fortuna
me at Catarata Río Fortuna
Mike at Catarata Río Fortuna
Mike at Catarata Río Fortuna
Catarata Río Fortuna
Catarata Río Fortuna
me at Catarata Río Fortuna
me at Catarata Río Fortuna
me at Catarata Río Fortuna
me at Catarata Río Fortuna
Catarata Río Fortuna
Catarata Río Fortuna
me on hike at Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal
me on hike at Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal
Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal
Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal
Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal
Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal
church in La Fortuna
church in La Fortuna
Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Turquoise-browed Motmot at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Turquoise-browed Motmot at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mike at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mike at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mike at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mike at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Me and Mike at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Me and Mike at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mike at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mike at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mike at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mike at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
me and Mike at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
me and Mike at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mike at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
Mike at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
me at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
me at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
view of Volcán Arenal from Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
view of Volcán Arenal from Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park
looking at the dam from Mistico
looking at the dam from Mistico

Desfile de Caballistas (Parade of Horsemen)

Once we returned home, we enjoyed one event of many that comprise the Celebramos 102 Años de Cantonato del 21-31 Agosto 2025: the Desfile de Caballistas (Parade of Horsemen). Before that event, we ate at Iván’s restaurant, Tilatacos. Iván has become Mike’s swimming buddy in the lake for the last several weeks; because Iván is new to open-water swimming, he appreciates Mike’s advice and companionship.

On the last day of the month, we went to the final event of the Celebration: Gran Actividad Bailable de Cierre en el Parque Flaqué Montull (Great Closing Dance Activity in Domino Flaqué Montull Park). It wasn’t all that thrilling, probably because we were there too early.

me with Mike at Tilatacos
me with Mike at Tilatacos
Mike and fellow swimmer Iván (owner of Tilatacos
Mike and fellow swimmer Iván (owner of Tilatacos
Desfile de Caballistas (Parade of Horsemen) in Tilarán
Desfile de Caballistas (Parade of Horsemen) in Tilarán
Desfile de Caballistas (Parade of Horsemen) in Tilarán
Desfile de Caballistas (Parade of Horsemen) in Tilarán
me at Desfile de Caballistas (Parade of Horsemen) in Tilarán
me at Desfile de Caballistas (Parade of Horsemen) in Tilarán
Desfile de Caballistas (Parade of Horsemen) in Tilarán
Desfile de Caballistas (Parade of Horsemen) in Tilarán
Desfile de Caballistas (Parade of Horsemen) in Tilarán
Desfile de Caballistas (Parade of Horsemen) in Tilarán
Gran Actividad Bailable de Cierre en el Parque Flaqué Montull (Great Closing Dance Activity in Domino Flaqué Montull Park)
Gran Actividad Bailable de Cierre en el Parque Flaqué Montull (Great Closing Dance Activity in Domino Flaqué Montull Park)

My Summer Bingo Card

I checked off a lot of items on my Summer Bingo Card in August. It’s a good thing since summer ends on September 21. I put smiley faces on the following:

  1. Beach time (Tamarindo)
  2. Taco Tuesdays (1 x)
  3. Kayak in the lake
  4. Have a pool day (numerous times)
  5. Make corn soup with shrimp
  6. Family time (Alex, Jandira & Allie – FaceTime)
  7. Frozen drink – piña colada – on rooftop at Plaza Paseo del Viento (2x)
  8. Paddleboard in lake (2x)
  9. Swim in the lake (2x)
  10. Visit Centro de Rescate y Santuario Las Pumas in Cañas
  11. Eat seasonal fruit (added passionfruit – maracuyá)
  12. Pedicure (white semi-permanent) 1x
  13. La Fortuna (see above for photos)
    1. Spa Day (Baldi Hot Springs)
    2. Whitewater raft (on the Río Sarapiqui)
    3. Hike a volcano (Volcán Arenal)
    4. Visit a National Park (Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal)
    5. Visit a waterfall and swim in it – Catarata Río Fortuna
    6. Have a massage (Spa Luz de Luna)
    7. Rain Forest Visit (La Fortuna) – Mistico Hanging Bridges
  14. Finished 6 books (3 in August)

ready to kayak on the lake
ready to kayak on the lake
kayaking on Lake Arenal
kayaking on Lake Arenal
kayaking on Lake Arenal
kayaking on Lake Arenal
kayaking on Lake Arenal
kayaking on Lake Arenal
kayaking on Lake Arenal
kayaking on Lake Arenal
pool day
pool day
pool day
pool day
pool day
pool day
Frozen drinks on the rooftop at Plaza Paseo del Viento
Frozen drinks on the rooftop at Plaza Paseo del Viento
cerveza and. Piña colada
cerveza and. Piña colada
me with my frozen drink on the rooftop
me with my frozen drink on the rooftop
paddle boarding on the lake
paddle boarding on the lake
Mike paddle boarding on the lake
Mike paddle boarding on the lake
me paddle boarding on the lake
me paddle boarding on the lake
Santuario Las Pumas in Cañas
Santuario Las Pumas in Cañas
Santuario Las Pumas in Cañas
Santuario Las Pumas in Cañas
Santuario Las Pumas in Cañas
Santuario Las Pumas in Cañas
Santuario Las Pumas in Cañas
Santuario Las Pumas in Cañas
Santuario Las Pumas in Cañas
Santuario Las Pumas in Cañas
pool day
pool day
on the way to the lake for paddle boarding
on the way to the lake for paddle boarding
getting ready to paddleboard
getting ready to paddleboard
paddleboarding on the lake
paddleboarding on the lake
me paddle boarding again
me paddle boarding again
Mike paddle boarding
Mike paddle boarding
my Summer Bingo Card as of 8/31
my Summer Bingo Card as of 8/31
my Summer Bingo Card as of 8/31
my Summer Bingo Card as of 8/31

Identifying birds & flora

We saw Keel-billed Toucans in our tree outside our house two times this month, plus we saw them in captivity at Centro de Rescate y Santuario Las Pumas in Cañas. We have both downloaded the Merlin app to help us identify all the birds that wake us up each morning. So far I have a Life List of 34 species. We’ve had several visits by Keel-billed Toucans, and regulars here at our house include Great-tailed Grackles, House Wrens, Red-lored Parrots, and Cabinis’s Wrens. One morning a flock of Orange-chinned Parakeets descended on the trees surrounding our house. Birdsong is ever-present in our days, except on days when it’s raining.

At Anne’s suggestion, I downloaded “seek by iNaturalist” but I haven’t found it to work for me.

Keel-billed Toucans in our tree
Keel-billed Toucans in our tree
Keel-billed Toucan in our tree
Keel-billed Toucan in our tree
Keel-billed Toucan in our tree
Keel-billed Toucan in our tree
Keel-billed Toucan in our tree
Keel-billed Toucan in our tree
pretty tropical flower
pretty tropical flower
a tree I tried to identify but couldn't
a tree I tried to identify but couldn’t
Toucans seen August 27
Toucans seen August 27
Toucans seen August 27
Toucans seen August 27
Toucans seen August 27
Toucans seen August 27
Toucans seen August 27
Toucans seen August 27
Orange-chinned parakeets
Orange-chinned parakeets

ExperiencingVeranillo in August

Apparently July to August is considered the “little high season” (also known as veranillo or “little summer”) with pleasant weather with minimal rain, moderate crowds and lower prices. We enjoyed an overall less rainy month in Costa Rica than we did our first two months. People say October and November are the rainiest months.

Family happenings

Allie and Jandira arrived safely home from their month-long trip to Angola on August 6. Jandira got a new job as Assistant Manager at a jewelry store close to our house in Oakton, and Allie started going to a new daycare. She also continued taking swim lessons.

In Nicaragua, Cristy bought nail polishes and nail tools so she can practice doing people’s nails.Later, Cristy got her certificate of Manicure & Pedicure for the course she completed.

Allie at the Lisbon airport
Allie at the Lisbon airport
Allie at the Lisbon airport
Allie at the Lisbon airport
Allie, Alex and Jandira - reunited after the girls were in Angola for a month
Allie, Alex and Jandira – reunited after the girls were in Angola for a month
Allie at daycare
Allie at daycare
Allie at daycare
Allie at daycare
Allie taking swim lessons
Allie taking swim lessons
Allie at our house
Allie at our house
Cristy with her nail polish supplies
Cristy with her nail polish supplies
Cristy gets her certificate of completion for Manicure and Pedicure
Cristy gets her certificate of completion for Manicure and Pedicure

Homebody stuff

We continued our three times per week workouts at Monster Gym and our Wednesday yoga sessions at Living Forest Yoga. We also run errands for food and day-to-day needs. We cook in quite frequently, trying to limit our dinners/lunches out only to 3x/week. I had a hair hydrating session at the end of August, as well as a pedicure.

Mike leaving Living Forest after yoga
Mike leaving Living Forest after yoga
verduras & frutas in Aguacate
verduras & frutas in Aguacate
tilapia and zucchini meal we made
tilapia and zucchini meal we made
sunset from our house
sunset from our house
the front of our house
the front of our house
pedicure at S.O.S. Beauty Salon
pedicure at S.O.S. Beauty Salon
pedicure at S.O.S. Beauty Salon
pedicure at S.O.S. Beauty Salon
beautiful sunset
beautiful sunset
beautiful sunset
beautiful sunset

I finished 3 books in August, bringing my total to 31/48. I especially enjoyed Out Stealing Horses by Per Petterson. We watched three movies: The Penguin Lessons (Argentina), My Oxford Year, and Fall for Me (Mallorca), all of which we enjoyed. We started watching a couple of new series: Territory, Asura no Gotoku, If Only (Si lo hubiera sabido), and Platonic. We finished watching North of North, Tuiskoms, Letters from the Past (Gelecege Mektuplar), and The Survivors (excellent!). We continued watching Younger, Seinfeld, Togetherness, and Pernille. This month we made a decision to stop watching Severance: it’s just too bizarre and not our thing.

On my Costa Rica blog, you can find my weekly recaps of our lives in Costa Rica for the month of August:

  • a mini-getaway to tamarindo {week 9/52}
  • a week of summer bingo card achievements 🙂 {week 10/52}
  • a visit to an animal sanctuary, friend excursions & a cuban-style costa rican mother’s day {week 11/52}
  • a trip to la fortuna & volcán arenal – hot springs, whitewater rafting, waterfalls, national parks & hanging bridges – & a “desfile de caballistas” in tilarán {week 12/52}
  • a rather humdrum week: hair hydration & a pedicure, comida typica & new friends {week 13/52}
*********

I hope you’ll share how the year is panning out for you, and what plans you have for the summer and the rest of this year.

How did your August go? Did you have any special family gatherings? Have you welcomed any new additions to your family?  Did you celebrate any birthdays or anniversaries? Have you read any good books that can inform your worldview, seen any good movies, binge-watched any television series? Have you planned any adventures or had any summer getaways? Have you dreamed any dreams? Have you gone to any exotic restaurants, cooked any new dishes? Have you been surprised by anything in life? Have you marked off activities on your Summer Bingo card? Have you tried out any new water sports like kayaking, paddle boarding, white water rafting? Have you soaked in thermal pools or hiked in any national parks? Have you learned anything new, taken any classes or just kept up with the news? Have you sung along with any new songs? Have you undertaken any new exercise routines? Have you marched or otherwise participated in political protests? Have you been battered, or alternately, uplifted by any news?

Please share your August with me by giving me the plot below, or a link to a post in your blog that tells about your month.

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the july cocktail hour: a trip to ometepe, nicaragua; a beach getaway to tamarindo; & homebody activities

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 August 3, 2025

Thursday, July 31, 2025: Welcome to our July cocktail hour. Let’s have some Flor de Caña 12-year-aged rum with Fresca, a drink easily made at home here in Costa Rica. We can congregate on the balcony and enjoy breezes and views of Lake Arenal. If you listen carefully, you can hear the grunting of the howler monkeys and you might even see a toucan fly clumsily by. You can visit our resident hummingbird, who has recently built a nest in a flower bush outside our kitchen window. You can even come along vicariously on our getaways to Ometepe, Nicaragua and to Tamarindo on the Pacific coast of Costa Rica. Sunset is at around 6:00 every night of the year; twilight brings with it lots of mosquitoes, so be sure to slather on the mosquito repellent.

I have a variety of soda, seltzer water, or bebida de aloe for those of you who don’t drink. Thanks for joining us in our escape into a peaceful corner of the world, not a place completely free from danger, but safe from certain things we cannot abide, like living in a police state under a fascist government.

July marked our second month in Guanacaste, Costa Rica. It was in some ways a busy month and in other ways a laid-back, homebody-type month.

Our exercise & personal care routine

Three days of each week, we get up just after dawn (around 5:30), have breakfast and soon go to Monster Gym for our workouts. On Wednesdays we go to Living Forest for a yoga class. The remaining days of the week, we go on walks through hilly terrain, mostly to and around Tronadora or to the top of San Luis. Only once this month did I do an online Pilates class. Mike goes to swim in the cove near our house at least once a week.

I finally found a beauty salon where I got a pedicure and asked about hair straightening.

Dining out with a few musical interludes

We tried a lot of local restaurants during the month. At Soda La Macha, we found delicious tilapia and a pleasant setting. We went to Taco Tuesday at Lake Arenal Brewery where we danced to Jimmy Loop while playing handmade musical instruments. We ate out at Guadalupe, La Pradera, and Paseo del Viento (a food court near Monster Gym where Mike got a hamburger at 506 Snacks and I got a tostada cup filled with shrimp ceviche). We drove to Nuevo Arenal one evening for a nice dinner at Moya’s Place. We had ice cream treats at Pop’s in Tilaran. We enjoyed a lunch mid-walk at Soda Doña Chila’s in Tronadora. We had ceviche at Cevichera La Pasadita in San Luis. And finally, on Sunday the 27th, we went to hear Smooth Jazz on the Lake by Eureka at La Tortuga, on the north side of Lake Arenal.

Other events

We looked at and pretty much decided to rent a condo at Lake Arenal Condos for our second six months here. We went to a Blessing of the Boats at the cove.

A visit to the family in Ometepe, Nicaragua

We took a trip to Ometepe, Nicaragua to visit Adam and family for 6 nights in the middle of the month. It was stressful crossing the border with our car from Costa Rica to Nicaragua, but we managed to survive it and the ferry ride across to the island. We had a great visit with the family as the girls were out of school for the entire week plus Adam and Maria closed their business for the week so we could all spend time together. We saw Cristy, who was voted Queen of her school, march in a parade in Altagracia. We watched Andrea and Maria practice for a gymnastics competition coming up in Managua at their neighbor Manja’s gymnastics pavilion.

Mike and I took a chocolate tour at El Pital Chocolate Paradise and drank ceremonial doses of cacao. We walked on the beach most mornings and on the road to Santa Domingo two mornings. We swam in Lago Nicaragua and played at the beach with Adam, Maria and the kids. We ate meals with the family: takeout pizza from Pizzeria Mediterranea, lunch at Ojo de Agua, and dinner at Libélula (Dragonfly) Café and at Xalli. Mike and I ate on our own at Xalli, Cafe Campestre, El Pital, Bûstavö, and Pan de Mama. It was the best family time we’ve ever had in Nicaragua and we loved it all.

Soon after we returned to Costa Rica after our visit to Nicaragua, we heard that Andrea won the gold medal for her floor exercises at the gymnastics competition in Managua. We are so proud of her!

Tamarindo: a beach break

Finally, the last two days of July, we took a trip to Tamarindo, one of the most developed beaches, known for its surfing culture, on the Pacific beach. We hung out at the beach and at Langosta Beach Club, ate meals at Cha Cafe, Fish & Cheeses, Little Lucha and Kabuto Sushi, went shopping, and took an Estuary Boat Tour through Parque Nactional Marino Las Baulas de Guanacaste. It was hot, humid and sunny, quite a difference from our weather near Lake Arenal.

IsVeranillo here?

Apparently July to August is considered the “little high season” (also known as veranillo or “little summer”) with pleasant weather with minimal rain, moderate crowds and lower prices. We definitely lucked out in Ometepe with Veranillo, as we had near-perfect weather. In Costa Rica, it was a mixed bag.

Homebody stuff

I finished 3 books in July, bringing my total to 28/48. I especially enjoyed Speak, Silence by Kim Echlin. I learned a lot about the Panama Canal in the fictional The Great Divide by Cristina Henríquez. We watched two movies: The Life List, which I enjoyed, and Nonnas, which was predictable and mediocre. We started watching a couple of new series: The Survivors and Letters from the Past (Gelecege Mektuplar). We finished watching Thank You, Next, The Secrets We Keep, Istanbul Encyclopedia, The Manny and Sara: Woman in the Shadows. We continued watching Younger, North of North, Seinfeld, Togetherness, Pernille, Tuiskoms and Severance.

On my Costa Rica blog, you can find my weekly recaps of our lives in Costa Rica:

  • a week of salon services & pizza; yoga, a sauna & soak; an exploration of tilarán on foot; & a walk to a pitaya farm {week 5/52}
  • a week of lazy days, warrior wasps, swimming horses, & boat blessings {week 6/52}
  • our first visit to ometepe, nicaragua to visit the family {week 7/52}
  • a slow-motion recovery from our nicaragua trip & some unsettling warnings about safety around lake arenal {week 8/52}
*********

I hope you’ll share how the year is panning out for you, and what plans you have for the summer and the rest of this year.

How did your July go? Did you have any special family gatherings? Have you welcomed any new additions to your family?  Did you celebrate any birthdays or anniversaries? Have you read any good books that can inform your worldview, seen any good movies, binge-watched any television series? Have you planned any adventures or had any summer getaways? Have you dreamed any dreams? Have you gone to any exotic restaurants, cooked any new dishes? Have you been surprised by anything in life? Have you learned anything new, taken any classes or just kept up with the news? Have you sung along with any new songs? Have you undertaken any new exercise routines? Have you marched or otherwise participated in political protests? Have you been battered, or alternately, uplifted by any news?

Please share your July with me by giving me the plot below, or a link to a post in your blog that tells about your month.

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the june cocktail hour: our first month in costa rica

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 June 30, 2025

Monday, June 30, 2025: Welcome to our June cocktail hour.Let’s have some tequila with Fresca, a drink easily made at home here in Costa Rica. We can congregate on the balcony and enjoy breezes and views of Lake Arenal and maybe we’ll even experience a cooling tormenta. Sunset is at around 6:00 every night of the year; twilight brings with it lots of mosquitoes, so be sure to slather on the mosquito repellent.

I have a variety of beers, soda or seltzer water for those of you who don’t drink. Thanks for joining us in our escape into a peaceful corner of the world, not a place completely free from danger, but safe from certain things we cannot abide, like living in a police state.

June marked our first month in Guanacaste, Costa Rica. We spent the first couple of weeks settling into the rental house on Lake Arenal that we got through Airbnb. The house has a modern addition, but the original house is old and rather decrepit. The kitchen is certainly not well-stocked, so we had to spend quite some time and money getting it up to par.  I hope to get our “settling in” over with as soon as possible so we can spend our time relaxing and exploring not only local spots but areas further afield.

our Airbnb in Buena Vista near San Luis, Costa Rica
our Airbnb in Buena Vista near San Luis, Costa Rica
Our house on Lake Arenal
Our house on Lake Arenal
our Airbnb in Buena Vista near San Luis, Costa Rica
our Airbnb in Buena Vista near San Luis, Costa Rica
me on our balcony
me on our balcony
the view from our balcony
the view from our balcony
Mike on our balcony
Mike on our balcony
me on our balcony
me on our balcony
me in our front yard, communing with the tropical greenery
me in our front yard, communing with the tropical greenery
the pool in our community
the pool in our community
sunset on the lake
sunset on the lake

***************
Mike carries on with consulting & I begin a new blog

Mike has officially retired, but he is not willing to let it all go; he is still doing consulting here and there. Luckily it doesn’t take up big chunks of our days. For my part, I’ve started a new blog which you can find here:

a pura vida year in costa rica

I still need to have some kind of project to keep me occupied and out of trouble. 🙂

A new used car: 2014 Mitsubishi ASX

The day after we moved into our house, on June 2, we bought a red 2014 Mitsubishi ASX from an expat American, Rand, who lives in the community. He had bought the car for his girlfriend Raquel. Since they broke up, he wanted to sell it. Though the car is 11 years old, it only has 40,000 miles on it and we hope we’ll be able to sell it when we leave the country next year.  It has a stick shift, which Mike quickly got used to. It took me a while before I was brave enough to try it. With all the hilly roads here AND the fact that I hadn’t driven a stick shift probably since the 1980s, I was a bit nervous about it and knew I needed a straight and flat stretch to practice on.

I finally practiced driving the car on June 16 in nice flat Tronadora. It’s funny how some repetitive actions like riding a bike or driving a stick can come back to you like a familiar old friend. My driving lesson through Tronadora went smoothly. Regained confidence! 🤩🥳

our 2014 Mitsubishi ASX
our 2014 Mitsubishi ASX
My first day driving the stick shift
My first day driving the stick shift

Shopping for big stuff in Liberia

Our neighbor Bruce, who is super friendly, hilarious and helpful, had us follow him to Liberia on our first Thursday, where we spent all day shopping for household items at PriceSmart (like Costco in the U.S.) and Walmart. He also took us to his favorite fish market, Panamar Seafood. We spent a small fortune on food and household items. Our biggest purchases were sturdy plastic tables to serve as computer desks, two giant floor fans, a rice cooker and a blender. We’ll of course take them with us when we move to another place in December, and when we leave Costa Rica next May, I hope we can take them to Adam in Nicaragua.

Monster Gym and exercise options

We got busy immediately scoping out our exercise options. I’m hoping to lose weight while I’m here. We found a couple of hilly walking routes in San Luis and Tonadora. We also joined Monster Gym in Tilaran, run by Diego. Mike rides the exercise bike there while I do the weight machines. I have never enjoyed going to the gym in Virginia, but this place seems to work well for me. We got a month-long membership for $40 each, quite expensive in my eyes. We’ve been going three times a week since we joined on June 9.

We also tried out Yoga with Adrien and Pilates with Sherry on YouTube. I don’t know Adrien, but I’ve taken pilates classes with Sherry at Oakmont Rec Center near my home in Oakton, VA. Now that Mike’s leg has healed, he started swimming in the cove of Lake Arenal near our house. We also hope to try some kayaking there and Mike wants to try paddle boarding, but I’m not sure about my ability to keep my balance. Of course, when we explore further afield in Costa Rica, we’ll do some hiking as well. During our last week, we also found a place to do yoga; I’ll tell more about that later.

Tilarán & Tronadora

We’ve checked out spots in Tilarán, mostly supermarkets and hardware stores, but also eateries. We’ve also explored the town of Tronadora, the tidiest little town imaginable. Residents keep their homes and lawns perfectly manicured. You can tell the townspeople have great pride in their town. Besides walking there, we found  a carnicería run by Rigo (Rigoberto) where we bought bacon 🥓, chicken, fish, chorizo, & frozen shrimp 🍤. He threw in the most delicious sweet pineapple for free and even cut it for us. We found a small vegetable market, where we stocked up on veggies, and Soda Doña Chila, a breakfast and lunch restaurant. A “soda” in Costa Rica is a small, often family-owned restaurant that specializes in comida tipica, or traditional Costa Rican food. A soda feels like an extension of a Tico home, where recipes are passed down through generations.

church in Tronadora
church in Tronadora
mural in Tronadora
mural in Tronadora
Mike in Tronadora
Mike in Tronadora
Soda Doña Chila in Tronadora
Soda Doña Chila in Tronadora
Soda Doña Chila in Tronadora
Soda Doña Chila in Tronadora
Tronadora
Tronadora
Tronadora
Tronadora
Tronadora
Tronadora

Exploring local cuisine

During the month, we visited Brisas del Lago, Lake Arenal Brewery, Mary’s Restaurante with our friend Bruce, Café & Macadamia, Mystica, Beer Garden Tinajas, and Chicharronera on Peninsula 1 in Tronadora. We went out to eat at the most upscale spot around, Gingerbread in Nuevo Arenal, owned by an Israeli man who has lived in Costa Rica for 23 years. We also cooked in quite a a lot. Our favorite creation so far has been the chorizo, potato and green bean soup we made from the chorizo we got from Rigo in Tronadora. One Saturday night we tried a place just up the road from us in San Luis, Cevichera La Pasadita. I enjoyed a ceviche de camarón, while Mike had Costilla Cerdo BBQ.

me at Brisas del Lago
me at Brisas del Lago
Chorizo, potato & green bean soup made by us
Chorizo, potato & green bean soup made by us
Mike at Lake Arenal Brewery
Mike at Lake Arenal Brewery
Lake Arenal Brewery
Lake Arenal Brewery
Café & Macadamia
Café & Macadamia
me at Beer Garden Tinajas
me at Beer Garden Tinajas
Beer Garden Tinajas
Beer Garden Tinajas
Beer Garden Tinajas
Beer Garden Tinajas
Beer Garden Tinajas
Beer Garden Tinajas
Mike & Bruce at Mary's
Mike & Bruce at Mary’s
Mike at Chicharronera on Peninsula 1
Mike at Chicharronera on Peninsula 1
Mike ane me at Chicharronera
Mike ane me at Chicharronera
Mike on Father's Day at Gingerbread
Mike on Father’s Day at Gingerbread
Gingerbread
Gingerbread
Gingerbread
Gingerbread
me at Gingerbread
me at Gingerbread
me at Cevichera La Pasadita
me at Cevichera La Pasadita
Mike at Cevichera La Pasadita
Mike at Cevichera La Pasadita
Costilla Cerdo BBQ at Cevichera La Pasadita
Costilla Cerdo BBQ at Cevichera La Pasadita

Local drives

We took a drive up to a cross on a hill, called Cerro Tovar, Parque del Viento, to see views of Tilaran and the countryside thereabouts. We also visited the towns of Aguacate and Nuevo Arenal.

drive up to Cerro Tovar, Parque del Viento
drive up to Cerro Tovar, Parque del Viento
old bull ring in Tilaran seen from Cerro Tovar, Parque del Viento
old bull ring in Tilaran seen from Cerro Tovar, Parque del Viento
Tilaran seen from Cerro Tovar, Parque del Viento
Tilaran seen from Cerro Tovar, Parque del Viento
Tilaran seen from Cerro Tovar, Parque del Viento
Tilaran seen from Cerro Tovar, Parque del Viento
Cerro Tovar, Parque del Viento
Cerro Tovar, Parque del Viento
view of countryside around Tilaran from Cerro Tovar, Parque del Viento
view of countryside around Tilaran from Cerro Tovar, Parque del Viento
pretty yellow church in Aguacate
pretty yellow church in Aguacate

Peninsula 1 in Tronadora

We walked one Tuesday down and back on Peninsula 1, a beautiful peninsula on the other side of the cove from us. The green rooftops shown in some of the pictures are those in our complex, across the cove. I could live on Peninsula 1. It has great views and, being on a ridge, gets strong breezes off Lake Arenal. The white house at the end of the peninsula, shown in the photo below, houses a group of Germans who wear white everywhere and paint the local bus stops with colorful religious-themed murals. We passed them bicycling and walking on Peninsula 1 and they didn’t even meet our eyes or greet us in any way.

After our walk we stopped at Soda Doña Chila for fruit juices and an empañada for Mike.

cows on Peninsula 1
cows on Peninsula 1
Peninsula 1: our complex are the green roofs across the cove
Peninsula 1: our complex are the green roofs across the cove
the white house at the end of Peninsula 1, occupied by the German group
the white house at the end of Peninsula 1, occupied by the German group
cool trees on Peninsula 1
cool trees on Peninsula 1
view from Peninsula 1
view from Peninsula 1
Mike at Soda Doña Chila in Tronadora
Mike at Soda Doña Chila in Tronadora

Two nights in Playa Hermosa

We took a 2-night break from the rains inundating Lake Arenal to visit Playa Hermosa, only about a 1 1/2-hour drive from our house. We were taking a gamble as it’s rainy season everywhere in Costa Rica, but we mostly lucked out with the weather.  We stayed at the same hotel, Hotel el Velero, where we stayed in 2023 when we came here with our son Alex.

After lunch at Café & Macadamia near the Liberia Airport, we arrived at Hotel el Velero and promptly headed out to the beach. The day was beautiful, sunny & breezy and we enjoyed swimming, reading, and relaxing, topped off with drinks at the 3:30 happy hour. I made substantial progress on a book I’ve been reading sporadically for quite some time, Paul Theroux’s The Old Patagonian Express. Though written in 1979 (46 years ago), there are still many pertinent observations by the author about Central and South America. In the evening, we enjoyed sunset at the beach.

Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
me at Playa Hermosa
me at Playa Hermosa
Mike at Playa Hermosa
Mike at Playa Hermosa
sunset at Playa Hermosa
sunset at Playa Hermosa
Mike at Playa Hermosa
Mike at Playa Hermosa
Mike at sunset at Hotel el Velero
Mike at sunset at Hotel el Velero
character at Hotel el Velero
character at Hotel el Velero

After sunset, we went to Ginger, the same Asian-inspired tapas restaurant where we went in 2023 with Alex. We enjoyed talking to fellow American travelers seated on either side of us. We enjoyed glasses of Prosecco and the food was delectable (we shared firecracker shrimp, Ahi Tuna Tostadas, and Cremini and Pepper Jack Flatbread), the night breezy and comfortable, the ambiance great, and the company fabulous. And we topped it off by sharing a lava cake with ice cream.

Ginger
Ginger
firecracker shrimp at Ginger
firecracker shrimp at Ginger
Mike at Ginger
Mike at Ginger
me at Ginger
me at Ginger

We enjoyed breakfast at Hotel El Velero Thursday morning. At breakfast we met a super interesting couple from Canada. The woman, Dana, works at the Canadian embassy in San Jose and her husband John is a prominent journalist originally from Scotland but who covers Canadian politics for Canadian media. After breakfast, we walked from one end of Playa Hermosa to the other. It was a beautiful morning!

Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
me at Playa Hermosa
me at Playa Hermosa
Mike at Playa Hermosa
Mike at Playa Hermosa
bird at Playa Hermosa
bird at Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
pool at Hotel el Velero
pool at Hotel el Velero

We drove to Playas del Coco for a lunch of avocado toast with mushrooms and a beef burrito.

Café Corazon
Café Corazon
Café Corazon
Café Corazon
Café Corazon
Café Corazon
avocado & mushroom toast at Café Corazon
avocado & mushroom toast at Café Corazon
beef burrito at Café Corazon
beef burrito at Café Corazon
Playas del Coco
Playas del Coco

We enjoyed dinner our last night at Hacienda Blu Beach Lounge & Grill near Playa Panama. I got eaten alive by mosquitoes but otherwise, the food, staff, and ambiance were fabulous. We shared Chipotle Mussels with ciabatta bread, Tico rolls & Leche frita con helado. Yum! It was our last night at Playa Hermosa before returning to Lake Arenal.

Hacienda Blu Beach Lounge & Grill
Hacienda Blu Beach Lounge & Grill
Hacienda Blu Beach Lounge & Grill
Hacienda Blu Beach Lounge & Grill
Tico Roll at Hacienda Blu Beach Lounge & Grill
Tico Roll at Hacienda Blu Beach Lounge & Grill
Chipotle Mussels at Hacienda Blu Beach Lounge & Grill
Chipotle Mussels at Hacienda Blu Beach Lounge & Grill
Leche frita con helado
Leche frita con helado
me at Hacienda Blu Beach Lounge & Grill
me at Hacienda Blu Beach Lounge & Grill
Mike at Hotel el Velero
Mike at Hotel el Velero
me at Hotel el Velero
me at Hotel el Velero

Our last morning at Playa Hermosa, we took an early walk on the beach at low tide then enjoyed our last breakfast at Hotel el Velero.

Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa
breakfast at Hotel el Velero
breakfast at Hotel el Velero
me at Hotel el Velero
me at Hotel el Velero

Errands in Liberia

On our way home, we stopped in Liberia for a couple of errands. We had dreaded going to the Registro de la Propiedad to get a Permiso de Salida to take our car out of Costa Rica into Nicaragua. We had heard we would encounter long lines and that the Permiso lasted for 90 days, meaning we would have to repeat this process 4x over the year. We were pleasantly surprised to find no line at all, an English-speaking agent, and assurance that all our car documents were in order. We also were happy to learn the Permiso lasts for 6 months, meaning we only have to repeat the process once.

Our other errand was to go to Walmart. I hate shopping at Walmart and am supposed to be boycotting it as they support our feckless & despicable president and the Republicans who enable him. However we needed to get an air fryer as we have no oven in our house. We also wanted to get new bedding as the sheets and comforter provided by the Airbnb owners are cheap, ugly, old and made of polyester. There were also food items we wanted that we couldn’t find in Tilaran.

We got all that taken care of in Liberia and drove home in about an hour 15 minutes.

Once we get to Cañas, we drive on two-lane mountain roads to San Luis. It seems every time on these roads we get stuck behind trucks or buses plodding along and belching black smoke! I thought Costa Rica was supposed to be focused on the environment. Why are these horrible vehicles allowed to drive with all these polluting fumes bursting from them? I guess they don’t have to pass emissions inspections here.

Back home in Buena Vista

Once we returned home, we had rain for the rest of the afternoon. At least we enjoyed two sunny days at the beach!

Saturday the 21st, we woke up to pouring rain after a night where it rained nonstop. Finally we found a break in the rain and took a walk uphill through San Luis and then down to a gully where the road to Tronadora is on the verge of washing away. This is the only paved road that connects Tronadora to San Luis (where we live) and Tilaran. With all the rain we’re having, I hope the road doesn’t totally wash away before they get to the repairs.

on the way to Tronadora
on the way to Tronadora
a gated villa with a tree-lined drive near our house
a gated villa with a tree-lined drive near our house
beautiful green pasture near our house
beautiful green pasture near our house

Meanwhile, back in the homeland …

I’m happy to be in a country, unlike the U.S., that has no standing army.  After the Costa Rican Civil War in 1948, it was permanently abolished in 1949, becoming one of only a few sovereign nations without a standing army. It’s a country that values green energy, biodiversity, and ethnic diversity. Sadly, it’s still not the safest country in the world, but then neither is the U.S. these days. The United States (currently the “Divided States”) now has too much rancor, hatred, and racism, encouraged by our utter despicable leadership. Violence is increasingly being not only condoned but actually perpetrated by our government. Democratic lawmakers are being arrested or assassinated for their political beliefs, for god’s sake! People are being disappeared off the streets by masked men who don’t present identification. I will not miss my home country under its current fascist regime. I expect it to get a LOT worse before it gets better, if it EVER does.

Saturday afternoon, we were appalled to find out that Trump bombed several nuclear sites in Iran. He did so without Congressional approval. I don’t know what his end game is, or what the consequences of this action will be, but I’m sure nothing good will come of it. I personally believe his action is a kind of wag-the-dog situation: creating a diversion from damaging issues, usually through military force. The damaging issues include his many losses in courts, his poorly attended birthday military parade and the 5 million people who took to the streets on that same day – “No Kings Day” – to protest him and his administration, the high disapproval toward his “big beautiful bill,” and his sinking poll numbers. I also think he likes to appear the strongman (aka bully) to the rest of the world. He is the most despicable human our country has ever elected and I blame the 77 million assholes who voted for this. Once again, the U.S. is jumping into another forever war, despite the promises by that idiot that there would be no wars under him. And he thinks he deserves the Nobel Peace Prize. What a joke! If he ever got it, that award would become meaningless forever.

Another walk to Tronadora

Sunday morning, Mike and I went for another walk in Tronadora; this is my favorite of our walks. However, we are leery about the nearly-washed away road to Tronadora, so we will probably wait a while to return there for further walks or errands. As it’s my favorite little town, I hope the construction crews will repair the road soon.

Tronadora town park

I spent the rest of Sunday working on my blog, catching up on my journal, and watching an episode of My Friends & Family that I missed one night when I fell asleep. Mike and I also played a game of online Scrabble, and I am happy to say I won: 335-284. I so rarely win games against Mike that I’m happy to claim victory when I can.

Expanding our local connections

Our last week in June, we stayed close to home, deepening our connections to our local community. We took our first cash out of an ATM, found a barber for Mike, found La Casa del Plastica (a store that sells plastic goods), ate tacos and listened to live music on Taco Tuesday at Lake Arenal Brewery, attended our first yoga session at Living Forest Lodge & Retreat Center, found a farm where yogurt is sold, went to Nuevo Arenal where we ate at the German Bakery and checked out a Farmacia Organica, and enjoyed the pool.

We took several nice walks, one from our house to Tronadora and back, about 4 hilly miles round-trip. We are still in the midst of the ongoing drama regarding the road to Tronadora. It doesn’t look like much work is going on there yet, and even the people directing traffic seemed to be lackadaisical in their duties. We walked across but no longer trust driving across, even though buses and trucks go across continually. One of these days, if they don’t get it fixed soon, I fear the whole road will collapse.

Mike has his first haircut in Costa Rica
Mike has his first haircut in Costa Rica
Olsen del Torro at Lake Arenal Brewery on Taco Tuesday
Olsen del Torro at Lake Arenal Brewery on Taco Tuesday
Mike at Taco Tuesday at Lake Arenal Brewery
Mike at Taco Tuesday at Lake Arenal Brewery
Taco Tuesday at Lake Arenal Brewery
Taco Tuesday at Lake Arenal Brewery
bathroom mural at Lake Arenal Brewery
bathroom mural at Lake Arenal Brewery
Lake Arenal Brewery
Lake Arenal Brewery
Drive to Living Forest Lodge & Retreat Center
Drive to Living Forest Lodge & Retreat Center
Living Forest Lodge & Retreat Center
Living Forest Lodge & Retreat Center
Yoga studio at Living Forest Lodge & Retreat Center
Yoga studio at Living Forest Lodge & Retreat Center
sauna at Living Forest Lodge & Retreat Center
sauna at Living Forest Lodge & Retreat Center
Living Forest Lodge & Retreat Center
Living Forest Lodge & Retreat Center
Mike at Living Forest Lodge & Retreat Center
Mike at Living Forest Lodge & Retreat Center
Mike at Tisú Farm
Mike at Tisú Farm
the roadwork on the road to Tronadora
the roadwork on the road to Tronadora
the roadwork on the road to Tronadora
the roadwork on the road to Tronadora
bus stop mural on the way to Tronadora
bus stop mural on the way to Tronadora
bus stop mural
bus stop mural
Tronadora town park
Tronadora town park
horse we found on the way to Tronadora
horse we found on the way to Tronadora
German Bakery
German Bakery
Mike at the German Bakery
Mike at the German Bakery
Me at the German Bakery
Me at the German Bakery
German Bakery
German Bakery
Farmacia Organica in Nuevo Arenal
Farmacia Organica in Nuevo Arenal
the ongoing drama of the road to Tronadora
the ongoing drama of the road to Tronadora
the ongoing drama of the road to Tronadora
the ongoing drama of the road to Tronadora
the ongoing drama of the road to Tronadora
the ongoing drama of the road to Tronadora
beautiful Sunday view
beautiful Sunday view

We had a rare sunny day on Friday. We stopped on the way to the gym where we had a view of Volcán Tenorio popping through the clouds. After our workout we also took a short road up a gravel road where we found amazing views and a couple of beautiful houses.

view of Volcán Tenorio from the Mirador Tilaran on a rare sunny day

At the end of June, we began to look at condos for our December-May time frame. We found some good possibilities but are not ready to make a decision yet.

In August, after we go visit Adam in Nicaragua in July, we’ll make some trips to places further afield where we haven’t been before.

A month of the rainy season. Veranillo soon to come.

Since it’s rainy season from mid-May to November, we get to experience thunderstorms or steady rain, especially in the afternoons and evenings. The storms bring in cool breezes which we love; the rain keeps the house cool and comfortable. Apparently July to August is considered the “little high season” (also known as veranillo or “little summer”) with pleasant weather with minimal rain, moderate crowds and lower prices. The rainiest month is said to be October. I wonder how it will be in the dry season from December-April. Of course by then we’ll be in a different house, so I have no idea what to expect.

Homebody stuff

I finished 2 books in June, bringing my total to 25/48. I enjoyed both: The Old Patagonian Express by Paul Theroux and The Confessions of Frances Godwin by Robert Hellenga. We watched two good movies: The Wrong Track (På Villspor) and the 2022 movie, What’s Love got to do with it? We started watching several series: Togetherness, Pernille (Pørni), The Secrets We Keep, and Sara: Woman in the Shadows. We finished watching Four Seasons, Bad Sisters, and Your Friends & Neighbors. We continued watching Istanbul Encyclopedia, Younger, North of North, The Manny, and Severance.

On my Costa Rica blog, you can find my weekly recaps of our lives in Costa Rica:

  1. setting up our household in Costa Rica & a few local explorations {week 1/52}
  2. seeking vistas on gravel roads & miradors, and adventures in cuisine {week 2/52}
  3. a driving lesson & a brief beach getaway at Playa Hermosa {week 3/52}
  4. expanding our community around lake Arenal: a yoga session, taco Tuesday, a German bakery & an organic market {week 4/52}
*********

I hope you’ll share how the year is panning out for you, and what plans you have for the summer and the rest of this year.

How did your June go? Did you have any special family gatherings? Have you welcomed any new additions to your family?  Did you celebrate any birthdays or anniversaries? Have you read any good books that can inform your worldview, seen any good movies, binge-watched any television series? Have you planned any adventures or had any summer getaways? Have you dreamed any dreams? Have you gone to any exotic restaurants, cooked any new dishes? Have you been surprised by anything in life? Have you learned anything new, taken any classes or just kept up with the news? Have you sung along with any new songs? Have you undertaken any new exercise routines? Have you marched or otherwise participated in political protests? Have you been battered, or alternately, uplifted by any news?

Please share your June with me by giving me the plot below, or a link to a post in your blog that tells about your month.

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  • Central America
  • Costa Rica
  • Guanacaste

a pura vida year in costa rica

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 June 12, 2025

Thursday, June 12, 2025: I’ve started a new blog about our year living abroad in Costa Rica. If you’d like to follow me there, check it out here:

a pura vida year in costa rica

Some of my first posts follow:

  1.  living in costa rica: a year of adventure and family
  2. our home on Lake Arenal for the first six months (June 1 –  November 30, 2025)
  3. Costa Rica arrival: first impressions and travel challenges
  4. setting up our household in Costa Rica & a few local explorations {week 1/52}

I haven’t started a new blog in a long time, so please be patient as I work out the kinks on the site! I’ll still be posting my monthly cocktail hours on this blog, as well as my year-end recaps. I haven’t decided yet if I’ll post our trips to Panama, Guatemala and Belize on this blog or the new one.

Our house on Lake Arenal
Our house on Lake Arenal
the cove & boat dock
the cove & boat dock
Mike in Tronadora
Mike in Tronadora
church in Tronadora
church in Tronadora
mural in Tronadora
mural in Tronadora
me on our balcony
me on our balcony
Mike at Lake Arenal Brewery
Mike at Lake Arenal Brewery
Lake Arenal Brewery
Lake Arenal Brewery
pretty yellow church in Aguacate
pretty yellow church in Aguacate
me at Beer Garden Tinajas
me at Beer Garden Tinajas
Beer Garden Tinajas
Beer Garden Tinajas
Beer Garden Tinajas
Beer Garden Tinajas
rainbow seen over Lake Arenal from Nuevo Arenal
rainbow seen over Lake Arenal from Nuevo Arenal

I hope you’ll come along on Mike’s and my first “living abroad experience” together. (I lived and worked abroad on my own in South Korea, Oman, China and Japan).

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