I dream of Portugal. I dream of pastel de nata – the delectable Portuguese egg tart pastry; of Sopa de Beldroegas – purslane, or watercress, soup; of Sagres beer; of fresh fish and Port wine. I dream of almond and fig ice cream, promised but elusive.
I dream of standing on the western shore of the Atlantic. I dream of the Algarve: Silves, Alte, Tavira. I dream of colorful fishing boats at Santa Luzia seen from the Ria Formosa boat tour and lazy days with a dear friend.
I dream of Evora: a hilltop town with a warren of winding and convoluted narrow streets.
I dream of Sintra with its its patterned pebble sidewalks, Monserrate Palace, Quinta da Regaleira, the 19th-century Romanticist Palácio Nacional da Pena. I dream of breathtaking views from Castelo dos Mouros.
I dream of Lisbon: its Baroque churches; its Moorish arches; its red rooftops. I dream of the Rio Tejo and the Tower of Belém. I dream of soulful and melancholy fado wafting out of shops, sounding like a lament on a breeze. I dream of colorful azulejos decorating churches, monasteries, palaces, restaurants, bars, railway and subway stations, and ordinary homes. I dream of the graffiti-splashed streets of Bairro Alto, the cobbled streets of the charming Alfama neighborhood, Lisbon’s steep hills and trams. I dream of pastel peeling buildings and colorful laundry strung across wrought-iron balconies.
I spent nearly two weeks in southern Portugal in July of 2013. This time around, in late October and early November, after I complete the Camino de Santiago, my husband and I will travel from Santiago de Compostela to the north of Portugal and work our way south to Sintra and Lisbon. We’ll wander around Porto, and possibly Braga and Óbidos.
My travels the first time were solo, although I had the delightful pleasure of meeting Jo of Restless Jo in Tavira. This time we may or may not be able to meet Jo and her husband (it looks like we won’t), and we sadly won’t have time to visit the south. I think I’ll be a bit worn out after the Camino. This year is our 30th anniversary on November 13, although we’ll be home by then. (Mike considers it our 23rd anniversary, if you subtract our 7-year separation). Although I’ve been to Lisbon and Sintra, Mike wants to visit too, as he’s never been, and he’s listened to my nostalgic dreams.

boats at Santa Luzia

boats at Santa Luzia

me with Jo on the Ria Formosa boat tour

tiles in Silves

me in Evora

Pastel de nata

Moorish Castle in Sintra

Pena Palace in Sintra

Pena Palace
Monserrate Palace was originally commissioned by Gerard de Visme, an English merchant holding the concession to import Brazilian teak. Transformed in 1856 into a summer residence for the Francis Cook family, it represents 19th century eclecticism.

Monserrate Palace

Belem Tower

Lisbon

Colorful buildings in Lisbon

laundry in Lisbon

Baroque church in Lisbon

view of Lisbon
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“THE CALL TO PLACE” INVITATION: I invite you to write a 500-700 word (or less) post on your own blog about what enticed you to choose a particular destination. If you don’t have a blog, I invite you to write in the comments. If your destination is a place you love and keep returning to, feel free to write about that. If you want to see the original post about the subject, you can check it out here: imaginings: the call to place.
Please include the link in the comments below by Wednesday, August 22 at 1:00 p.m. EST. When I write my post in response to this challenge on Thursday, August 23, I’ll include your links in that post. If you’d like, you can use the hashtag #wanderessence.
My next post will be about my upcoming trip to walk the Camino de Santiago in northern Spain.
This will be an ongoing invitation, on the fourth Thursday of each month. Feel free to jump in at any time. 🙂
I hope you’ll join in our community. I look forward to reading your posts!
the ~ wander.essence ~ community
I invite you all to settle in and read a few posts from our wandering community. I promise, you’ll be inspired.
- Sue, of WordsVisual, wrote about how she was called to visit the disused pit buildings of Reims-Geux Motor Racing Circuit. I can certainly understand her draw to such ruins.
Thanks to all of you who wrote posts about “the call to place.” 🙂
Take me back there! Immediately! 🙂 🙂 It’s all so very vivid and close to my heart, Cathy. It still doesn’t seem quite real that this could be home soon. I’m so cloaked in Englishness right now. Warm Englishness- very strange! 🙂 I still haven’t managed Monserrate but everywhere else in your lovely photos is familiar. I did so enjoy this, Cathy, and thanks for the mention. As you know, the end of your Camino collides a bit with the arrival of family. We’ll see! Maybe Lisa and Leo would like a trip north… or we can leave the youngsters in peace for a day or two. Hugs, darlin!
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At some moments, I’m thinking maybe I should just skip the Camino and go directly there. But then I remind myself I really want to do the Camino, although I’m feeling much trepidation.
I know you can’t wait until Portugal is home for you, Jo! It must be strange to have a warm English summer; it seems there are heat waves all over the place, although here it’s not too bad and we’ve had a lot of rain over the last week, even some flooding!
I know with all your family coming, you may not have time to come north at all, but I certainly understand. We would love to see you if we can, and I know Mike would love to meet you and Mick. We’ll just see if it works out. I’ll be posting my anticipation and preparation post tomorrow on Portugal, and it will have all the dates and where we’ll be. I’m still undecided on one night – either Obidos or Coimbra. One night probably isn’t enough to do either justice, but it’s on our way so we can at least see a little. I’ll also be taking the overnight train from Lisbon to Hendaye on September 1, arriving in St. Jean-Pied-de-Port on September 2. I can’t start the actual walk until the morning of the 4th because I have a reservation at Refuge Orisson on the night of the 4th to break up that first crossing over the Pyrenees. And frustratingly my knee is still causing me problems, so I’m cutting back on the training and I’m just going to let the Camino train me. 🙂
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At the end of the day you can only walk as far as you can walk, Cathy. If you meet up with a kindred spirit or someone you click with you might be inspired to do more, but I don’t think you can really gauge it till you’re there. I really hope you enjoy it after all this planning and anticipating. 🙂 🙂
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That’s so true, Jo, and the way things are going lately, that may not be very far. I wish now I hadn’t started doing all that training so early; all was fine until June and July, when I’ve been in almost constant pain. I may be walking 3 miles a day and have to skip ahead to Sarria and just complete the last 100km. I hope that won’t be the case, but I’m preparing myself for any eventuality. I may have to have that total knee replacement earlier than 4-5 years, after doing that walk. But still, I want to try. Anyway, the tickets have been bought. I’m not getting any younger, so it’s either now or never. 🙂
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Well, at least you’ll get a flavour of, Cathy! You never know when you’re doing right or wrong with exercise. It’s allegedly good for you but then everything wears out. Believe me, I know! 🙂 🙂 Hugs, darlin!
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That’s true, Jo. Yes, it’s a big question about the exercise. Sometimes I feel more stiff and in pain when I try to “take a rest” than when I just push myself to go out and walk. That’s how I feel this morning: should I walk or stay in and rest? All the recommendations are to keep exercising aren’t they, but it’s no fun when you’re in pain. My dad, who is 88, can hardly walk at all and I think it’s because he stopped trying. I don’t want to be in that boat. 🙂
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I think I might stop trying by 88, Cathy! 🙂 🙂 Mine wasn’t too good on his legs by then either. The streets of Tavira won’t be safe if I have to whizz round on one of those automated wheelchairs!
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Hahaha! That cracks me up, the image of you riding around like a wild maniac on an automated wheelchair. 🙂
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Coming soon to a cinema near you 🙂 🙂
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🙂 🙂
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Oh great to see all this – a lot of interesting places at the Algarve unknown by me while having only been at diverse locations on the Eastern side last October. We will return definitely to Portugal sometime again, hopefully sooner than later. I can still hear the Fado sound of Lisbon very clearly.
For your call-to-place invitation I am attaching a link with some photos of my last travel to Tunisia in 2006 which I made together with my companion leading us thru all of the country. I can not count how often I have been in Tunisia for job reasons so it is quite familiar for me while it is also influenced quite strong by the French. A very nice mixture.
https://transmutation.me/2017/09/09/water-ambitions-of-tunisia/
The topic of water and its relevance here to be experienced by simple photos.
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I listened to the famous Portuguese fado singer, Ana Moura, at a local venue here in Virginia in the spring, and it brought back memories of my first time in Portugal. I’m so looking forward to returning.
I’ll look forward to reading about your call to Tunisia, Ulli. Thanks for sharing it. 🙂
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For the rest of the year, Egypt is standing on my agenda, but in January or February 2019 something about Tunisia is planned, at least I found again all my analog photos from my deserttrip in 2002, honestly I like them more than the digital ones which I have made 4 years later.
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I see you have a new post up about Egypt. I must go visit it now. I’ve always had a dream to climb Mt. Sinai. 🙂 It’s fun to find those old photos of travels, isn’t it? I’m glad you found them. 🙂
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Egypt a good place for understanding the varied misunderstandings between Orient and Occident, the civilization started in the Middle East anyhow. A recommended lecture: Silk Roads by Peter Frankopan!
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Thanks for the recommendation, Ulli. 🙂
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Lovely photographs! They really capture the light and the colours. But I wonder if, after walking the Camino, you will find the towns busy, noisy and crowded? I would head for the Alentejo. If you need a town then Evora or better still Vila Vicosa, and stay in the Pousadas, or if it is solitude then the Pousada at Flor de Rosa. Perhaps I should do a post and then write to you!
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Thanks, Candy. I’ve been to the Alentejo (Evora) and the Algarve and to Sintra (which I loved) and Lisbon; this time as I’ll be in the north after Santiago, so we want to be in the north. We’ve already booked everything. Maybe another trip another time!
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Beautiful 🙂
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Thank you, Joshi. 🙂
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Portugal! Such an amazing place, the food, the people, the beaches, etc too many other wonder things to name
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Thank you, Gin Nerd. I agree, it is an amazing place and I’m looking forward to going back. I wish I could linger there for months on end!
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To be able to fulfill a dream is something very special Cathy. To have been there once and now to travel there again with Mike will make more memories for you. What beautiful photos and that blue sky is stunning. No wonder you dream obout it.
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I’m really looking forward to the whole adventure, Pauline. It will certainly be a challenging one and a memorable one, with the Camino and Portugal all wrapped up in one. 🙂
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I’m looking forward to hearing all about it when you get back Cathy
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Thanks, Pauline. 🙂
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Enjoy your second trip to lovely Portugal but I’m sure you will find it just as delightful as the first visit. I haven’t been back for many years, although I had a 4-day visit to Lisbon three years ago when I rained every day! We still managed to enjoy it even though everyone was wearing plastic ponchos or otherwise covered up against the rain and the skies were grey. Your litany of places inspires me to plan another trip there, but I do wish you hadn’t shown the photo of the pastel de nata just before I prepare lunch!
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Thanks so much, Mari. Oh dear, that’s not good to hear about the rain. When I was there the first time, it was July and very sunny (and hot!). This time we will arrive at the end of October to early November, so I hope we’ll have good weather. Haha! about the pastel de nata. I could use a bite of that right now myself, and I just had breakfast. 🙂
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Portugal has long been on my travel list. One day…
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I’m sure you’ll get there eventually! 🙂
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Thanks for the beautiful pictures, Cathy. I can’t say I know Portugal. I did sail past if a long time ago, but we never had a longer time ashore.
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You sailed past it? Were you on a cruise of some sort? I’d actually love to own an apartment in Portugal or Greece, but now maybe not after all those wildfires! I’ve also been to Greece and loved it, so it breaks my heart to hear of all that devastation.
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Actually, it was on a sailing boat, in the early 1990s, I seem to remember. A friend of mine at that time owned a vintage 60-foot sailing yacht, and he needed a crew to sail it from the Mediterranean to Belgium. I was on board as the navigator. That route, of course, took us all along the Portuguese coast. As it was just sailing on and sailing on, we didn’t see much of Portugal, of course – only some capes and some coast line. We did put into Lisbon for just one night. Because of limited vacation time we had to do the whole trip in two stages, btw. Out first trip took us to Sao Jacinto [we had wanted to make it to Porto, but because of a storm couldn’t] and most of the crew had to leave for Germany then. For me it was that my Easter vacation time [3 weeks then for a teacher] ended. But some of the original crew, me included, returned in the summer. By that time the boat had been moved a few miles north, to Porto, and that’s where I joined the ship again for the second leg of the trip, via La Coruna, across the Bay if Biscay, to Nieuwport in Belgium,l with just one more stop in Brest/France.
I enjoyed the whole trip – both legs – a lot. Quite an experience.
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Wow, that sounds like an amazing adventure, Pit. Too bad you didn’t get to spend more time in Portugal, but you had a grand time nonetheless!
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It certainly was an adventure! I saw enough of Portugal – well, the Algarve that is – to make me want to go back there some time.
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Beautiful pictures. I’ve only once been to Portugal (to Porto) and really liked it.
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Thanks, Anabel. I really loved it, as well as Spain, Greece, and Turkey. I haven’t even been yet to Italy, but I basically love all the Mediterranean countries. 🙂
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Lovely photos Cathy. I even have a couple of the same shots! You did see a lot of Portugal on your visit, I only managed Lisbon, Cascais and Sintra. I’d love to visit more places on the western edge. The silver coast looks lovely and the Douro region. Love the wines from there. You must be getting very excited (and nervous) now, but Jo’s right. You do what you can when you are there and let your body dictate the pace. And pastel de nata WAS my breakfast when I was in Portugal!!
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I’m sure you do have some of the same shots, Jude. I loved all three places you went, especially Sintra, where I spent three wonderful (and surprisingly cool) nights in the middle of July. Most people do Sintra as a day trip, but I think that doesn’t do it justice. I wish I had a month or two, or 6 months, in Portugal! As for the Camino, I’m beginning to regret all my early-in-the-year training, because since June and July, my knees have been in so much pain, especially my right one, that I seriously wonder if I can do it. But I’ll just do what I can without being crazily determined to complete it at all costs!
I definitely look forward to breakfasts of churros in Spain and pastel de nata in Portugal!
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Maybe the humidity is affecting your knees? My shoulders have been bad all year and when the humidity is high they are much worse. I am sure you will do your best on the Camino and that is all you can give. Better as they say to have tried and failed than never to have tried at all.
William F. O’Brien
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I wonder if that’s what it is, Jude. It’s strange because I hiked all over the west without any knee problems in that dry air, and soon after I returned home, actually the day I walked on Manassas Battlefield on June 10, my knees have been in pain ever since, especially the right one! I keep thinking it was something to do with that walk, maybe twisting it or something, although nothing noticeable happened. Thanks for sharing that inspirational quote by William F. O’Brien. 🙂
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I love the way you’ve structured this around “I dream …” I might steal the idea to get me moving on a piece about returning to Broken Hill. Your photos and your essentialising entice me to Portugal – so diverse and all so beautiful. Can’t wait for the return visit.
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Thanks so much, Meg. It was fun to write it that way; since I’ve been there before it was easy enough to do. I might have trouble doing it based on just reading about a place I’ve never been. I’ll look forward to reading your piece about Broken Hill. I do love all those Mediterranean countries (I still haven’t been to Italy, but hopefully next year!), and could easily live in any of them. I’ve been heartbroken to read of the wildfires in Greece right now though.
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Our last bushfire close by a few months ago was savage and fast: loss of 70+ homes, but, miraculously, no lives. Greece is not so lucky.
I agree that the “I dream …” wouldn’t work as well if you weren’t familiar with the place. Some other iteration might work, but I can’t find one off the top of my head.
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Seventy homes is a lot, but yes, it’s good no lives were lost. Those poor people in Greece, and we also had some deaths in the California wildfires that have been raging for a while. So far this summer on the East Coast, we’ve had a lot of rain, so we don’t have to worry about that danger, at least not yet. It’s a sad state of affairs what’s happening with climate change and its perils.
I think you can make the “I dream” work even for places you haven’t been before, because obviously there are certain things you are drawn to when you choose to go to a particular place. 🙂
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But the charm of your piece was its particularity and vividness – hard to achieve via google images or Lonely Planet!
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Thank you ever so kindly for your thoughtful words, as always, Meg.
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When I stayed in Tavira there was a little supermarket just a few minute walk away, the pastel de nata were always warm, they must have baked them all day. I can buy them here, but one coasts what five costs over there! You’ve made me want to go to Sintra now. Do you use trekking pokes when you walk Cathy? If not give the a try, I’m sure it would help.
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I will add to this – walking poles really do help me when going up or down hill. They reduce the weight on your knees. And also act as a stabiliser on rough or scree ground.
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Oh, I’ll definitely be using walking poles, Jude. I agree, they’re really helpful going up and down hill, especially on scree ground! 🙂
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Yum, I look forward to eating those pastel de nata as often as possible when I’m in Portugal, Gilly. I have trekking poles and I do use them off and on when I walk. Since many of my walks in northern Virginia are on pavement, I don’t use them. The pavement is hard on my knees especially, but the trekking poles are annoying on pavement. When I walk on a trail, especially a hilly one, I use my poles. I will be taking them on the Camino for sure! 🙂
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