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    • on returning home
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  • Contact

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  • Home
  • about ~ wander.essence ~
    • ~ the places i’ve been ~
    • ~ places i’ve been in the u.s.a. ~
  • Travel Destinations
    • America
      • Boston
      • Delaware
      • District of Columbia
        • Washington
      • Georgia
        • Atlanta
      • Maryland
      • New Jersey
        • Cape May
      • New York
        • Adirondacks
        • Buffalo
        • Niagara Falls
      • Pennsylvania
        • Pittsburgh
      • South Carolina
      • Tennessee
        • Nashville
      • Virginia
    • American Road Trips
      • Canyon & Cactus Road Trip
      • Florida Road Trip
        • Everglades
        • Fort Lauderdale
        • Florida Keys
        • Miami
        • St. Augustine
      • Four Corners Road Trip
        • Arizona
          • Monument Valley
          • Petrified Forest National Park
          • Sunset Crater National Monument
          • Walnut Canyon National Monument
          • Winslow
          • Wupatki National Monument
        • Colorado
          • Colorado National Monument
          • Colorado Towns
          • Great Sand Dunes National Park
          • Grand Junction
        • New Mexico
        • Utah
          • Arches National Park
          • Canyonlands
          • Navajo National Monument
          • Dead Horse Point State Park
          • Hovenweep National Monument
          • Moab
          • Valley of the Gods
          • Natural Bridges National Monument
      • Great Lakes Road Trip
        • Michigan
        • Minnesota
        • Wisconsin
      • Midwestern Triangle
        • Illinois
          • Carbondale
          • Murphysboro
        • Kentucky
          • Covington
          • Lexington
          • Louisville
        • Ohio
          • Cincinnati
      • Road Trip to Nowhere
        • Nebraska
        • North Dakota
        • South Dakota
      • Tex-New Mex Road Trip
        • Texas & New Mexico Road Trip
        • New Mexico
        • Texas
    • International Travel
      • Africa
        • african meanderings {& musings}
        • Egypt
          • Cairo
        • Ethiopia
        • Morocco
      • Asia
        • Cambodia
        • China
          • China Diaries
          • Guangxi Province
        • India
          • Rishikesh
          • Varanasi
        • Japan
          • Kyoto
        • Myanmar
        • Oman
          • a nomad in the land of nizwa
          • Nizwa
        • Singapore
        • South Korea
          • catbird in korea
        • Thailand
        • Turkey
          • Cappadocia
        • Vietnam
      • Central America
        • Costa Rica
        • El Salvador
        • Nicaragua
        • Panama
          • Bocas del Toro
          • Panama City
      • Europe
        • In Search of a Thousand Cafés
        • Croatia
          • Dalmatia
            • Istria
            • Dubrovnik
            • Plitvice Lakes National Park
            • Split
            • Zadar
            • Zagreb
        • Czech Republic
          • Český Krumlov
        • England
        • France
        • Greece
        • Hungary
          • Budapest
          • Esztergom
        • Iceland
        • Italy
          • Bergamo
          • Cinque Terre
          • The Dolomites
          • Florence
          • Rome
          • Tuscany
          • Venice
          • Verona
          • Via Francigena
        • Portugal
        • Spain
          • Camino de Santiago
            • packing list for el camino de santiago 2018
      • North America
        • Canada
          • The Maritimes
            • New Brunswick
            • Nova Scotia
            • Prince Edward Island
          • Ontario
        • Mexico
          • Guanajuato
          • Mexico City
            • Teotihuacán
          • Querétaro
          • San Miguel de Allende
      • South America
        • Colombia
        • Ecuador
          • Cuenca
          • Quito
    • how to make the most of a staycation
      • Coronavirus Coping
  • Imaginings
    • imaginings: the call to place
  • Travel Preparation
    • journeys: anticipation & preparation
  • Travel Creativity
    • on keeping a travel journal
    • on creating art from travels
      • Art Journaling
    • photography inspiration
      • Photography
    • writing prompts: prose
      • Prose
        • Fiction
        • Travel Essay
        • Travelogue
    • writing prompts: poetry
      • Poetry
  • On Journey
    • on journey: taking ourselves from here to there
  • Books & Movies
    • books | international a-z |
    • books & novels | u.s.a. |
    • books | history, spirituality, personal growth & lifestyle |
    • movies | international a-z |
    • movies | u.s.a. |
  • On Returning Home
    • on returning home
  • Annual recap
    • twenty-fifteen
    • twenty-eighteen
    • twenty-nineteen
    • twenty-twenty
    • twenty-twenty-one
    • twenty twenty-two
    • twenty twenty-three
    • twenty twenty-four
    • twenty twenty-five
  • Contact

wander.essence

wander.essence

Home from Morocco & Italy

Home sweet home!May 10, 2019
I'm home from Morocco & Italy. :-)

Italy trip

Traveling to Italy from MoroccoApril 23, 2019
On my way to Italy!

Leaving for Morocco

Casablanca, here I come!April 4, 2019
I'm on my way to Casablanca. :-)

Home from our Midwestern Triangle Road Trip

Driving home from Lexington, KYMarch 6, 2019
Home sweet home from the Midwest. :-)

Leaving for my Midwestern Triangle Road Trip

Driving to IndianaFebruary 24, 2019
Driving to Indiana.

Returning home from Portugal

Home sweet home from Spain & Portugal!November 6, 2018
Home sweet home from Spain & Portugal!

Leaving Spain for Portugal

A rendezvous in BragaOctober 26, 2018
Rendezvous in Braga, Portgual after walking the Camino de Santiago. :-)

Leaving to walk the Camino de Santiago

Heading to Spain for the CaminoAugust 31, 2018
I'm on my way to walk 790 km across northern Spain on the Camino de Santiago.

Home from my Four Corners Road Trip

Home Sweet Home from the Four CornersMay 25, 2018
Home Sweet Home from the Four Corners. :-)

My Four Corners Road Trip!

Hitting the roadMay 1, 2018
I'm hitting the road today for my Four Corners Road Trip: CO, UT, AZ, & NM!

Recent Posts

  • call to place, anticipation & preparation: guatemala & belize March 3, 2026
  • the february cocktail hour: witnessing wedding vows, a visit from our daughter & mike’s birthday March 1, 2026
  • the january cocktail hour: a belated nicaraguan christmas & a trip to costa rica’s central pacific coast February 3, 2026
  • bullet journals as a life repository: bits of mine from 2025 & 2026 January 4, 2026
  • twenty twenty-five: nicaragua {twice}, mexico & seven months in costa rica {with an excursion to panama} December 31, 2025
  • the december cocktail hour: mike’s surgery, a central highlands road trip & christmas in costa rica December 31, 2025
  • top ten books of 2025 December 28, 2025
  • the november cocktail hour: a trip to panama, a costa rican thanksgiving & a move to lake arenal condos December 1, 2025
  • panama: the caribbean archipelago of bocas del toro November 24, 2025
  • a trip to panama city: el cangrejo, casco viejo & the panama canal November 22, 2025
  • the october cocktail hour: a trip to virginia, a NO KINGS protest, two birthday celebrations, & a cattle auction October 31, 2025
  • the september cocktail hour: a nicoya peninsula getaway, a horseback ride to la piedra del indio waterfalls & a fall bingo card September 30, 2025
  • the august cocktail hour: local gatherings, la fortuna adventures, & a “desfile de caballistas”  September 1, 2025

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exploring the outskirts of san miguel de allende: santa rosa de lima, dolores hidalgo, mineral de pozos & the mine of santa brigida

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 May 7, 2025
Driving from Guanajuato to San Miguel de Allende. First stop: Santa Rosa de Lima

Tuesday, February 25, 2025: Tuesday morning, we left Guanajuato and drove over scrubby but scenic highlands to Santa Rosa de Lima, a small town known for its glazed majolica-style ceramics. We stopped at the Mayólica Santa Rosa and admired the colorful pottery and even bought a couple of small pieces. The workshop produces hand-painted urns, flowerpots, flatware, and tiles, often depicting plants, flowers, fruits and animals. They also produce clay figurines of animals.

Santa Rosa sits at 2,400 meters (8,000 feet) with mountains of pine trees surrounding it.

Mayólica Santa Rosa
Mayólica Santa Rosa
Mayólica Santa Rosa
Mayólica Santa Rosa
Mayólica Santa Rosa
Mayólica Santa Rosa
Mayólica Santa Rosa
Mayólica Santa Rosa
Mayólica Santa Rosa
Mayólica Santa Rosa
Mayólica Santa Rosa
Mayólica Santa Rosa
Mayólica Santa Rosa
Mayólica Santa Rosa
Mayólica Santa Rosa
Mayólica Santa Rosa
Mayólica Santa Rosa
Mayólica Santa Rosa
Mayólica Santa Rosa
Mayólica Santa Rosa
Mayólica Santa Rosa
Mayólica Santa Rosa
Mayólica Santa Rosa
Mayólica Santa Rosa

Then we visited Conservas Santa Rosa, a women’s cooperative which makes jams and marmalades with locally-grown fruits. There we sampled a variety of jams, salsas and chili pepper/olive oil combos, and came away with some snacks to take to San Miguel de Allende.

Conservas Santa Rosa
Conservas Santa Rosa
Conservas Santa Rosa
Conservas Santa Rosa
Conservas Santa Rosa
Conservas Santa Rosa
Santa Rosa de Lima
Santa Rosa de Lima

We headed from there to Dolores Hidalgo, about a 40 minute drive.

Landscape on the way to Dolores Hidalgo

Dolores Hidalgo

We continued our trip to San Miguel with another stop in Dolores Hidalgo.  We started by wandering haphazardly and came across the pink Iglesia de la Tercera Orden [Church of the Third Order], an 18th century church with Baroque architectural elements. The church was inaugurated in 1755. Its facade is partially covered with local tiles and it has a nice little courtyard on one side.

Iglesia de la Tercera Orden
Iglesia de la Tercera Orden
Iglesia de la Tercera Orden
Iglesia de la Tercera Orden

Mike bought some fresh mangos from a street vendor and we walked to Plaza Principal and sat on a bench in the shade. It was such a beautiful, well-maintained square.

fresh mangoes
fresh mangoes
Mike enjoys fresh mangoes
Mike enjoys fresh mangoes

Like many cities, the downtown district in Dolores Hidalgo is organized around a plaza principal (central square). The plaza is at the heart of the city’s busiest commercial zone, and it is a popular spot with local families. In the very center of the plaza, there is a bronze statue of the famous pastor Miguel Hidalgo, originally commissioned by President Benito Juárez.

The city was a small town known simply as Dolores when Father Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla uttered his famous “Grito de Dolores” (Cry of Dolores) while standing in front of Nuestra Señora de los Dolores parish church in the early hours of September 16, 1810. He called for the end of Spanish rule and encouraged the people to take up arms. This event marked the beginning of Mexico’s struggle for independence. After Mexico achieved independence, the town was renamed Dolores Hidalgo in his honor.

Dolores Hidalgo was named a Pueblo Mágico (Magic Town) in 2002.

On the west side, the plaza is bordered by the Casa de Visitas (Plaza Principal 25), an 18th-century mansion. During the War of Independence, Dolores’s Spanish governor and his wife were held in the Casa de Visitas as prisoners of the rebel army.

A young man in the park was making small sandwiches with avocado, chicharrones, salsa & chilies. We had to sample one and it was delicious.

Plaza Principal
Plaza Principal
Dolores Hidalgo: Pueblo Magico
Dolores Hidalgo: Pueblo Magico
bronze statue of the famous pastor Miguel Hidalgo
bronze statue of the famous pastor Miguel Hidalgo
bronze statue of the famous pastor Miguel Hidalgo
bronze statue of the famous pastor Miguel Hidalgo
young man making small sandwiches with avocado, chicharrones, salsa & chilies
young man making small sandwiches with avocado, chicharrones, salsa & chilies
small sandwiches with avocado, chicharrones, salsa & chilies
small sandwiches with avocado, chicharrones, salsa & chilies
young man making small sandwiches with avocado, chicharrones, salsa & chilies
young man making small sandwiches with avocado, chicharrones, salsa & chilies
bronze statue of the famous pastor Miguel Hidalgo
bronze statue of the famous pastor Miguel Hidalgo
me in Plaza Principal of Dolores Hidalgo
me in Plaza Principal of Dolores Hidalgo
Mike in Plaza Principal of Dolores Hidalgo
Mike in Plaza Principal of Dolores Hidalgo

One of the most famous churches in Mexico, the Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores (Parish Church of Our Lady of Sorrows) is the jewel of Dolores Hidalgo’s central square. This impressive sandstone church has an elaborate churrigueresque facade, topped by two soaring bell towers. Inside, wood floors and rows of wood pews stand before a neoclassical altar.

In the left transept, there is an ornate, hand-carved baroque altar washed in gold leaf. On the right is a walnut altar which has been carefully carved in wood but left without gold leaf or paint. Not only is the untreated wood beautiful, it illustrates the craftsmanship behind many of Mexico’s baroque altarpieces.

Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores
Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores
Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores
Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores
Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores
Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores
civic building in Dolores Hidalgo
civic building in Dolores Hidalgo
Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores
Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores
Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores
Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores
Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores
Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores
Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores
Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores
Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores
Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores
Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores
Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores
Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores
Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores

After leaving Dolores Hidalgo, we drove on another hour to San Miguel de Allende, where we would spend five nights.

***************************

A day trip to Mineral de Pozos

Friday, February 28: Friday at lunchtime we arrived in the “ghost mining town” of Mineral de Pozos. This half-abandoned city, sitting on a hillside in the high desert chaparral, was a prosperous city during the 19th century, home to about 70,000 people and several prolific mineral mines. Over time, the town’s resources were depleted, the mines flooded and the population dwindled. The town has reawakened a bit, thanks to artists and expats settling down permanently away from the bustle of San Miguel de Allende.

We found a place to have lunch in a cute rooftop café, La Pila Seca de los Famosos de Pozos, where we shared enmoladas con pollo and an Aztec soup to the tunes of “Tanto la Queria” by Andy & Lucas, “Yo Quisiera” by Reik, and “Loba” by Shakira.

Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Iglesia San Pedro in Mineral de Pozos
Iglesia San Pedro in Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Iglesia San Pedro in Mineral de Pozos
Iglesia San Pedro in Mineral de Pozos
La Pila Seca in Mineral de Pozos
La Pila Seca in Mineral de Pozos
La Pila Seca in Mineral de Pozos
La Pila Seca in Mineral de Pozos
La Pila Seca in Mineral de Pozos
La Pila Seca in Mineral de Pozos
La Pila Seca in Mineral de Pozos
La Pila Seca in Mineral de Pozos
me at La Pila Seca
me at La Pila Seca
Mike at La Pila Seca
Mike at La Pila Seca
enmoladas con pollo at La Pila Seca
enmoladas con pollo at La Pila Seca
me at La Pila Seca
me at La Pila Seca
La Pila Seca in Mineral de Pozos
La Pila Seca in Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos

We took a short afternoon stroll around the weathered but charming little town. We wandered through the plaza principal and admired the Iglesia San Pedro; we had seen its dome from the rooftop cafe.

The town is full of mining history, traditions, architectural beauty, and ancient and modern festivities mostly held on weekends, when the town is apparently bustling.

Mineral de Pozos has a bohemian air, cobblestone streets, and traditional houses, located in the municipality of San Luis de la Paz, northeast of the state of Guanajuato. It was about an hour + 15 minute drive from San Miguel de Allende.

Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
The ruined Mine of Santa Brigida

After visiting Mineral de Pozas, we drove about 15 minutes north of town on dirt roads that felt like we were in the middle of nowhere. We were actually in route to the Mine of Santa Brigida. This is the mine responsible for the economic boom in the region as it had gold, silver, copper, lead, zinc and mercury. It is also the oldest in the state becoming one of the emblems of the town.

dirt road to Mine of Santa Brigida

In the semi-desert area we parked near a large red-and-white building which once served as the mine’s former management offices, paid the minder 200 pesos, and walked around the ruins.

Santa Brigida was actually mined by indigenous people before it came under Spanish control. It was a pit mine, so it doesn’t have a traditional mine shaft. We walked along the large and deep crevice in the earth which is the mouth of the mine, unmarked and gravelly. In addition to the mine, there are several deep wells around the mining camp, with no danger signs to mark their existence.

Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
me at Mine of Santa Brigida
me at Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida

We went into the Arcos Mágicos (Magic Arches of the Sun and the Moon), built in 1595 by the Jesuits. This building of narrow arches was the purifier of poisonous gases from the underground mine system, and also served to “air” the gold and silver at each of its doors. These arched ovens were also used for mercury amalgamation, which extracts metals from the rock.

It was also the astronomical and astrological observatory of the Jesuits, a site where two phenomena of lunar and solar light were manifested.

Arcos Mágicos (Magic Arches of the Sun and the Moon)
Arcos Mágicos (Magic Arches of the Sun and the Moon)
Arcos Mágicos (Magic Arches of the Sun and the Moon)
Arcos Mágicos (Magic Arches of the Sun and the Moon)
Arcos Mágicos (Magic Arches of the Sun and the Moon)
Arcos Mágicos (Magic Arches of the Sun and the Moon)
Arcos Mágicos (Magic Arches of the Sun and the Moon)
Arcos Mágicos (Magic Arches of the Sun and the Moon)
Arcos Mágicos (Magic Arches of the Sun and the Moon)
Arcos Mágicos (Magic Arches of the Sun and the Moon)
Arcos Mágicos (Magic Arches of the Sun and the Moon)
Arcos Mágicos (Magic Arches of the Sun and the Moon)
Arcos Mágicos (Magic Arches of the Sun and the Moon)
Arcos Mágicos (Magic Arches of the Sun and the Moon)
Arcos Mágicos (Magic Arches of the Sun and the Moon)
Arcos Mágicos (Magic Arches of the Sun and the Moon)

We also saw ruins of the three smelting ovens, Hornos Jesuitas, as well as the hull of what was the Hacienda de Beneficio de Santa Brígida.

This excursion reminded me of all my explorations of ruins with my friend Mario when I lived in Oman from 2011-2013.

Santa Brigida Mine
Santa Brigida Mine
Santa Brigida Mine
Santa Brigida Mine
Santa Brigida Mine
Santa Brigida Mine
Hornos Jesuitas
Hornos Jesuitas
Hornos Jesuitas
Hornos Jesuitas
Hornos Jesuitas
Hornos Jesuitas
Santa Brigida Mine
Santa Brigida Mine
Santa Brigida Mine
Santa Brigida Mine
Santa Brigida Mine
Santa Brigida Mine
Santa Brigida Mine
Santa Brigida Mine
Santa Brigida Mine
Santa Brigida Mine
Mike at Santa Brigida Mine
Mike at Santa Brigida Mine
me at at Santa Brigida Mine
me at at Santa Brigida Mine
Hacienda de Beneficio de Santa Brígida
Hacienda de Beneficio de Santa Brígida
Hacienda de Beneficio de Santa Brígida
Hacienda de Beneficio de Santa Brígida
Santa Brigida Mine
Santa Brigida Mine
Hacienda de Beneficio de Santa Brígida
Hacienda de Beneficio de Santa Brígida
Hornos Jesuitas at Santa Brigida Mine
Hornos Jesuitas at Santa Brigida Mine

After leaving the mine, we drove back about an hour + 20 minutes to San Miguel de Allende.

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the april cocktail hour: prepping our house for our son & family to housesit

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 May 1, 2025

Wednesday, April 30, 2025: Welcome to our April cocktail hour. It’s been a busy but not very fun month for us. Besides the ongoing degradation of our democracy, our economy, our foreign alliances and our world standing by our wanna-be tyrant and Russian sympathizer, the FELON, we’ve been busy getting our house ready for our son Alex and his family to move in for the next year to house-sit while we move to Costa Rica.

Let’s have shots of tequila, served up in Frida Kahlo shot glasses, along with some Lady Justice beer.

Lady Justice beer with two shots of tequila in Frida Kahlo shot glasses from Mexico

I also have a variety of beers, soda or seltzer water for those of you who are calm enough to survive the next four years without angst, anxiety or alcohol.

How did your April go? Did you have a happy Easter Sunday celebration? Have you welcomed any new additions to your family?  Did you celebrate any birthdays or anniversaries? Have you read any good books that can inform your worldview, seen any good movies, binge-watched any television series? Have you planned any adventures or had any spring getaways? Have you dreamed any dreams? Have you gone to any exotic restaurants, cooked any new dishes? Have you been surprised by anything in life? Have you learned anything new, taken any classes or just kept up with the news? Have you sung along with any new songs? Have you undertaken any new exercise routines? Have you marched or otherwise participated in political protests? Have you been battered, or alternately, uplifted by any news?

***************

April was a busy month for us, especially as we’ve been preparing our house for our son and his family to move in while we move to Costa Rica. The things we’ve had to do haven’t been much fun, and they have been time-consuming and expensive.

A clothing decluttering & a new closet

I spent a great deal of time sorting through a lot of my clothes in preparation for having a closet built in the smallest of our spare rooms. We’ve never had much closet space in our house, and what’s worse is that I have a huge collection of clothes. So something had to be done so that we could consolidate all our clothes and clean out the master bedroom so Alex and Jandira can move their stuff in. We had an Elfa closet system installed on April 16, and I’m happy to say, it makes a world of difference.

spare room used as closet with racks
spare room used as closet with racks
spare room used as closet with racks
spare room used as closet with racks
spare room used as closet with racks
spare room used as closet with racks
new Elfa closet units
new Elfa closet units
new Elfa closet units
new Elfa closet units
the clothes in the new closet :-)
the clothes in the new closet 🙂
the clothes in the new closet :-)
the clothes in the new closet 🙂
the clothes in the new closet :-)
the clothes in the new closet 🙂
the clothes in the new closet :-)
the clothes in the new closet 🙂
Wrapping up yoga

My favorite yoga teacher, who now lives in Charlottesville, returned to the Beloved Yoga studio for a Saturday special Chakra Hatha Flow, so of course I had to go to that. I have a number of passes I need to use before I go, and ever since she left the studio, I haven’t been going to yoga at all. So now I’m in a mad rush to use all the passes I’ve paid for.  I tried out a Beginner’s yoga class one Saturday, but it was horrible! It’s so hard to find good teachers there. But I’ll have to grin and bear it until we leave at the end of May.

Other than yoga, I haven’t done much exercise other than walking. At least springtime showcased some colorful & vibrant flowers. 🙂

Walk around Lake Anne in Reston
Walk around Lake Anne in Reston
redbud in our neighborhood
redbud in our neighborhood
tulip mania in Vienna, VA
tulip mania in Vienna, VA
pretty carpeting
pretty carpeting
cherry blossoms in Reston
cherry blossoms in Reston
Hear, hear!

I went to the ENT because Mike is always complaining that I can’t hear (or is it that I don’t listen?) and he wanted me to have a hearing test. I found that my hearing in both ears has disintegrated, but luckily not to the degree that I need hearing aids  – yet! I really don’t want to wear them. I also had wax buildup cleaned out in my left ear. The ENT told me I should come back once a year for a cleaning and hearing test. Oh boy, another thing to add to my long list of annual doctor appointments as I continue to age.

Dining out

We ate dinner out at Ariake, using the rest of a gift certificate our daughter Sarah gave us for Christmas. We took out a Greek dinner from The Big Greek Cafe, and I made the mistake of getting the heavy pastichio (Greek Lasagna with Béchamel). Ugh, way too much thick pasta. Next time, it’ll be a shrimp salad for me. We also ate at our favorite vegetarian Indian restaurant, Woodlands, after seeing the movie The Ballad of Wallis Island at Cinema Arts Theatre.

Mike at Woodlands
Mike at Woodlands
me at Woodlands
me at Woodlands

On Good Friday, using a gift certificate Mike got from one of his high school friends, we went to Georgetown in D.C. and ate at Filomena Restaurante, which was decorated to the hilt with Easter bunnies, painted eggs and colorful blossoms for Easter.

Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Mike & the Easter Bunny at Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Mike & the Easter Bunny at Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
me at Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
me at Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Mike atFilomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Mike atFilomena Restaurante in Georgetown
gnocchi with broccoli
gnocchi with broccoli
Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown
Filomena Restaurante in Georgetown

We took a short stroll around Georgetown after lunch, passing by the Ukranian Embassy. Even though our government under Trump is treating Ukraine horribly, and acting as if it is Ukraine’s fault that Putin invaded them (an outright lie), we strongly support Ukraine and are utterly disgusted by the actions of the U.S. government under the current administration.

Georgetown murals
Georgetown murals
Georgetown
Georgetown
Georgetown murals
Georgetown murals
Ukrainian Embassy in Georgetown
Ukrainian Embassy in Georgetown
Ukrainian Embassy in Georgetown
Ukrainian Embassy in Georgetown
Ukrainian Embassy in Georgetown
Ukrainian Embassy in Georgetown
Georgetown murals
Georgetown murals

We didn’t do much of anything for Easter as we didn’t have the family around and we’re not very religious anyway.

It was heartbreaking that Pope Francis died the day after Easter; why is it we always lose the good people? And then we’re stuck with the vile and evil people like Trump, Vance, Musk, Bondi, Hegseth, Patel, Putin and all other power-hungry politicians and operatives, as well as basically most billionaires and the entire Trump administration, Republicans, and MAGAts in general? Why, why, why?

Shortly after Easter, I got the “Gulf of Mexico” and “Lady Justice” beers I ordered from the progressive beer company in Illinois and Wisconsin, Minocqua Brewing Company. They are focused on progressive causes so I was happy to give them my business.

“Lady Justice” and “Gulf of Mexico” beer from Minocqua Brewing Company

We ate out at Mazadar Restaurant on the 27th. It’s one of our favorite restaurants but we never seem to make it there as much as we’d like.

Borani Banjan at Mazadar Restaurant
Borani Banjan at Mazadar Restaurant
me at Mazadar
me at Mazadar
Mike at Mazadar
Mike at Mazadar
Borani Banjan at Mazadar Restaurant
Borani Banjan at Mazadar Restaurant
Machicha Palo (Lamb shank) at Mazadar
Machicha Palo (Lamb shank) at Mazadar
Meat Mantu Appetizer
Meat Mantu Appetizer
me on the colorful cushions at Mazadar
me on the colorful cushions at Mazadar
Chocolate cake with Saffron Ice Cream
Chocolate cake with Saffron Ice Cream
A new iPhone

I got a new iPhone 16 Pro (my old one was an iPhone 11), and activated it on the 17th, which is always a bit of a hassle. But at least I checked off another item on my list. Luckily, I got a large credit on my old iPhone to offset the cost of the new phone; all I had to do was sign a 3-year contract with Verizon Wireless. We’ve been using Verizon for years, so it was nothing new.

in the Verizon store getting my new iPhone

Power washing and sealing our screened porch

On the 21st and 22nd (Earth Day), we had our screened porch power-washed and then sealed. It’s supposed to be done every 5 years, so it needed to be done before we left. It involved moving all the deck furniture off. Mike spent hours cleaning the chairs and tables of all the accumulated pollen and vacuuming the cushions. Then we put it all back together again (Actually I can thank Mike’s biking buddy Eric for help moving all the bulky pieces).

our newly sealed screened porch
our newly sealed screened porch
our newly sealed screened porch
our newly sealed screened porch
our newly sealed screened porch
our newly sealed screened porch
our newly sealed screened porch
our newly sealed screened porch
Sarah’s 41st birthday

Our daughter celebrated her 41st birthday on April 26. She was busy working in Virginia Beach, but I went to Richmond to meet her on the 29th-30th to belatedly celebrate and to help her set up her new apartment in Richmond. She begins her new job with a Richmond law firm on May 5.

I was happy to be able to visit the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts in Richmond so I could finally see a Frida Kahlo exhibit: “Frida: Beyond the Myth.” Sadly, I had missed much of what I’d hoped to see of Frida Kahlo when we were in Mexico City. Frida’s story was perfectly encapsulated by signs at the exhibit, so I have included the information below:

Beyond the Myth

Although Frida Kahlo (1907-1954) is one of the most recognizable artists of the 2oth century, our understanding of her as an individual is incomplete.

A mythology surrounds the artist and focuses on her significant personal challenges: relationships, injuries, numerous surgeries, and severe chronic pain. She constructed a public persona composed of opposing characteristics: seductive and innocent, strong and vulnerable. Kahlo was, in essence, the architect of her own myth. Fortunately, her friends, lovers, and fellow artists captured aspects of Kahlo that go beyond this myth.

Organized chronologically, this exhibition examines the events in Kahlo’s life and her responses to them. When her works are presented alongside candid and formal portraits of the artist, we can begin to lift the veil of Kahlo’s persona and renew our appreciation for her extraordinary life and art.

Portrait of Alejandro Gómez Arías, 1928

Kahlo and her first boyfriend, Alejandro Gómez Arías, shown below in the gallery, met at school in 1922 and were both injured in the bus accident in 1925. He convinced doctors at the scene to help Kahlo despite their doubts for her survival, thereby saving her life. The inscription an the upper right was added in 1952, which tells us that Kahlo held onto this painting for over 24 years.

Virginia Museum of Fine Arts (VMFA) in Richmond, VA
Virginia Museum of Fine Arts (VMFA) in Richmond, VA
Frida: Beyond the Myth at VMFA
Frida: Beyond the Myth at VMFA
Frida: Beyond the Myth at VMFA
Frida: Beyond the Myth at VMFA
Frida: Beyond the Myth at VMFA
Frida: Beyond the Myth at VMFA
Portrait of Alejandro Gómez Arías, 1928 by Frida Kahlo
Portrait of Alejandro Gómez Arías, 1928 by Frida Kahlo
Frida at Age 18, 1926 by Guillermo Kahlo
Frida at Age 18, 1926 by Guillermo Kahlo
Self-Portrait in a Velvet Dress, 1926 by Frida Kahlo
Self-Portrait in a Velvet Dress, 1926 by Frida Kahlo
Urban Landscape, 1925 by Frida Kahlo
Urban Landscape, 1925 by Frida Kahlo
Marriage & the United States (1929-1932)

Although Kahlo first saw Diego Rivera in 1922, they did not meet until 1928, when she asked him to critique her paintings. They were married in 1929 and spent much of the next three years traveling in the United States for Rivera’s mural commissions, including time in San Francisco, Philadelphia, New York, and Detroit. Early in their marriage, she terminated their first pregnancy when Rivera insisted they remain childless, and a few years later, she suffered a devastating miscarriage. Kahlo returned to Mexico to recuperate. These events greatly shaped her life and practice during this time.

In the United States, she encountered social elites and fellow contemporary artists. She also began wearing traditional Mexican Tehuana clothing-attire that became Kahlo’s signature style. While this self-fashioning displayed her Mexican pride, it also gave her a distinctive and even “exotic” appearance among Rivera’s wealthy patrons, who were garbed in designer clothing.

Frida Kahlo with Cigarette and White Dress, Coyoacán, Mexico City, 1929
Frida Kahlo with Cigarette and White Dress, Coyoacán, Mexico City, 1929
Frida Kahlo, 1931 by Imogen Cunningham
Frida Kahlo, 1931 by Imogen Cunningham
New York & Paris (1932-1939)

Following the death of her mother, Kahlo rejoined Diego Rivera in Detroit.

In late 1932, the two traveled to New York for his mural commission at Rockefeller Center. After their return to Mexico at the end of 1933, Kahlo suffered several setbacks, including major surgery on her right foot and, devastatingly, her husband’s infidelity with her younger sister, Cristina.

She retaliated against Rivera’s betrayal by taking several lovers. When she became pregnant a third time, she chose to end the pregnancy.

The 1930s also brought important milestones for Kahlo’s professional career. During a visit to New York in 1938, she was invited to exhibit at the Julien Levy Gallery. (The gallerist’s photos of Kahlo appear in this section.) This same year, the French Surrealist André Breton saw Kahlo’s work in Mexico City. He declared Kahlo to be a Surrealist and invited her to exhibit in Paris in 1939. After her return from Paris, she separated from Rivera and moved back to her childhood home in Coyoacán.

I found the paintings, photographs and paintings, along with their descriptions, fascinating. One in particular is shown below: The Suicide of Dorothy Hale, 1939.

Dorothy Hale was an actress with a failing career who, rather than continuing to rely on the generosity of her wealthy friends, died by suicide in 1928 by jumping from the 16th-story window of her apartment at the Hampshire House Hotel in Manhattan. Writer and politician Clare Booth Luce commissioned Kahlo to create a simple recuerdo (portrait of remembrance) for Hale’s mother. Instead, Kahlo chose to depict Hale’s final act. Luce was so shocked by this graphic portrayal that several friends had to convince her not to destroy it.

Frida Kahlo, 1938 by Julien Levy
Frida Kahlo, 1938 by Julien Levy
Frida Kahlo with Globe, 1937 by Manuel Alvarez Bravo
Frida Kahlo with Globe, 1937 by Manuel Alvarez Bravo
Frida: Beyond the Myth at VMFA
Frida: Beyond the Myth at VMFA
Seated Figure Playing an Instrument, ca. 300 BC- AD 200. Unidentified Nayarit artist.
Seated Figure Playing an Instrument, ca. 300 BC- AD 200. Unidentified Nayarit artist.
Survivor, 1938 by Frida Kahlo
Survivor, 1938 by Frida Kahlo
Frida in Paris, 1939 by Dora Maar
Frida in Paris, 1939 by Dora Maar
The Suicide of Dorothy Hale, 1939 by Frida Kahlo
The Suicide of Dorothy Hale, 1939 by Frida Kahlo
View of Central Park, the Zoo, 1931 by Frida Kahlo
View of Central Park, the Zoo, 1931 by Frida Kahlo
Frida Kahlo con Nickolas Muray, 1939 by Nickolas Muray
Frida Kahlo con Nickolas Muray, 1939 by Nickolas Muray
Friday with Olmeca Figurine, Coyoacán, 1939 by Nickolas Muray
Friday with Olmeca Figurine, Coyoacán, 1939 by Nickolas Muray
Frida with Blue Satin Blouse, 1939, by Nickolas Muray
Frida with Blue Satin Blouse, 1939, by Nickolas Muray
Frida with Magenta Rebozo, 1939 by Nickolas Muray
Frida with Magenta Rebozo, 1939 by Nickolas Muray
Frida with Cigarette, Altavista, 1941 by Nickolas Muray
Frida with Cigarette, Altavista, 1941 by Nickolas Muray
Frida with Fawn, Granizo, 1939 by Nickolas Muray
Frida with Fawn, Granizo, 1939 by Nickolas Muray
Frida on White Bench, New York, 1939 by Nickolas Muray
Frida on White Bench, New York, 1939 by Nickolas Muray
Professional Success & Physical Decline (1940-1948)

After divorcing in 1939, Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera remarried in December 1940.

Professionally, her expanding fame brought awards, grants, and participation in several international exhibitions during the 1940s. Unfortunately, these successes were offset by the crushing loss of her beloved father in 1941 and her increasing health challenges as the years passed. Kahlo had become a professor of painting, but her poor health often confined her to bed and obliged students to attend class at her house. By 1944, she began wearing a steel corset to support and immobilize her back. In 1946 incessant pain prompted her to travel to New York City for a spinal fusion. The surgery and a series of subsequent operations were unsuccessful, and she slipped into more frequent bouts of depression.

Finally, in 1948, she endured Rivera filing for divorce twice: the first time to wed actress María Félix, and the second, to wed his art dealer, Emma Hurtado. He ultimately rescinded the divorce papers and remained with Kahlo until the end of her life. These years of immense physical and emotional pain resulted in some of her most powerful self-portraits.

Frida Kahlo in New York, 1946 by Nickolas Muray
Frida Kahlo in New York, 1946 by Nickolas Muray
Magnolias, 1945, by Frida Kahlo
Magnolias, 1945, by Frida Kahlo
Frida in Thought, 1944 by Sylvia Salmi
Frida in Thought, 1944 by Sylvia Salmi
Self-Portrait with Monkey, 1945 by Frida Kahlo
Self-Portrait with Monkey, 1945 by Frida Kahlo
Sun and Life, 1947 by Frida Kahlo
Sun and Life, 1947 by Frida Kahlo
Self-Portrait with Loose Hair, 1947 by Frida Kahlo
Self-Portrait with Loose Hair, 1947 by Frida Kahlo
Otomí Huipil Blouse Embroidered with Deer and Bird Design, 1951 by Unknown Otomí artist
Otomí Huipil Blouse Embroidered with Deer and Bird Design, 1951 by Unknown Otomí artist
Frida Kahlo, Xochimilco, Mexico, 1941 by Rosa Covarrubias
Frida Kahlo, Xochimilco, Mexico, 1941 by Rosa Covarrubias
Frida Wearing Plaster Corset, 1951 by Florence Arquin
Frida Wearing Plaster Corset, 1951 by Florence Arquin
Frida in Bed at her Home, Coyoacán, 1952 by Bernice Kolko
Frida in Bed at her Home, Coyoacán, 1952 by Bernice Kolko
Frida Painting Naturaleza Viva, 1951 (Unidentified photographer)
Frida Painting Naturaleza Viva, 1951 (Unidentified photographer)

Final Years (1949-1954)

After another spinal surgery in 1949, Kahlo was hospitalized for nine months and relied on a wheelchair for mobility. She spent increasing amounts of time in bed— either in the hospital or at home. Still lifes became an effective vehicle of expression, and they account for over half of her artistic production during this period. The artist appreciated the fact that she didn’t have to worry about her appearance when painting still lifes, so her imagination could lead the way. Still lifes also permitted her to express her growing anxiety in a symbolic, more secretive manner that allowed potential buyers to view them simply as pleasing compositions.

In 1953 Kahlo had a triumphant first solo show in Mexico, but due to her poor health, she was forced to attend the opening lying in a bed. Months later, it became necessary to amputate her right leg. Her last public appearance was at a protest demonstration in early July, 11 days before she died on July 13, 1954.

Still Life with Parrot and Flag, 1951 by Frida Kahlo
Still Life with Parrot and Flag, 1951 by Frida Kahlo
Frida Following Amputation of Her Right Leg, 1953, Lola Alvarez Bravo
Frida Following Amputation of Her Right Leg, 1953, Lola Alvarez Bravo
Still Life (Living Nature/Naturaleza Viva), 1952
Still Life (Living Nature/Naturaleza Viva), 1952
Still Life (I Belong to Samuel Fastlicht), 1951 by Frida Kahlo
Still Life (I Belong to Samuel Fastlicht), 1951 by Frida Kahlo
Dog with a Corncob, ca. 200 BC-AD 300, Unidentified Colima artist
Dog with a Corncob, ca. 200 BC-AD 300, Unidentified Colima artist
Frida: Beyond the Myth at VMFA
Frida: Beyond the Myth at VMFA

I was so happy I got to see this exhibit. I found myself saddened by all the heartbreak Frida suffered in her life, between the bus accident in her youth, to her relationship with the philandering Diego Rivera, to her miscarriages and the physical pain she suffered with during her entire life. I love her exoticism and the way she stayed true to and amplified her Mexican heritage, of which she was very proud.

Sarah’s belated birthday

After meeting Sarah at her new apartment, we had lunch at Stella’s Market and then shopped in Target and Home Goods to get some things she needed for her new apartment.

After dropping her and all her goods by her apartment, I stopped to check in to my Airbnb on Parkwood in Carytown.

Carytown Airbnb
Carytown Airbnb
Carytown Airbnb
Carytown Airbnb
Carytown Airbnb
Carytown Airbnb

Later in the evening, we had a lovely dinner at Alewife in Churchill. It was a most delectable meal, with my favorites being the steamed mussels with green curry sauce and the tuna ceviche with aji amarillo, pickled onion, cilantro and chicharrones. Both were over the top and “to die for!”

Sarah also enjoyed her main meal of John Dory with potato puree, roasted mushrooms, and ramps and I enjoyed the appetizer Smoked Fish Dip: Pickles, Dill, trout roe, and grilled bread. My least favorite were the special crab hush puppies with Cajun remoulade.

Sarah making a toast at Alewife
Sarah making a toast at Alewife
steamed mussels with green curry sauce at Alewife
steamed mussels with green curry sauce at Alewife
Sarah and me at Alewife
Sarah and me at Alewife
Sarah blows out a birthday candle
Sarah blows out a birthday candle

The next morning, we went shopping again, this time for some new clothes for Sarah’s birthday. I dropped her at the train station so she could return to Virginia Beach, and then I drove home to northern Virginia.

 A new roof to top off the month

Our insurance company approved the replacement of our roof due to storm damage, so on the last two days of the month, we had a new roof installed on our house. This was a thing I wasn’t excited to spend money on, so I’m glad the insurance company finally approved it.

a new roof being installed on our house
a new roof being installed on our house
new roof ini progress
new roof ini progress
new roof ini progress
new roof ini progress
The family from afar

Here are some photos from April of the family in Nicaragua and in Atlanta.

Allie in Atlanta
Allie in Atlanta
Allie in Atlanta
Allie in Atlanta
Allie in Atlanta
Allie in Atlanta
Allie in Atlanta
Allie in Atlanta
Mia and little Mikey in Nicaragua
Mia and little Mikey in Nicaragua
Adam and Mike in Nicaragua
Adam and Mike in Nicaragua
Adam and Mike in Nicaragua
Adam and Mike in Nicaragua
Miscellaneous stuff

I finished 4 books in April, bringing my total to 15/48 for the year, with my favorites being Disappearing Earth by Julia Phillips and What You Are Looking For Is in the Library by Michiko Aoyama. We saw several movies: La Dulce Villa and Sult (A Copenhagen Love Story) on Netflix and The Ballad of Wallis Island at Cinema Arts Theatre. We finished the 3rd season of White Lotus, the 4th of The Upshaws, and the 6th of Virgin River, the 1st of The Äre Murders and Paradise, and the final seasons of Modern Family, Valeria, and the Turkish show Kimler Geldi Kimler Geçti (Thank You, Next). We started watching several series: Dying for Sex, The West Wing, Long Bright River, Your Friends & Neighbors, & Severance. We continued watching The Split, Younger, & Unforgotten.

I hope you’ll share how the year is panning out for you, and what plans you have for the spring and the rest of this year.

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  • Guanajuato
  • International Travel
  • Mexico

the colorful university town of guanajuato, mexico

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 April 23, 2025
A Challenging Drive from Mexico City to Guanajuato

Friday, February 21, 2025:  On Friday morning, we took an Uber at 9:30 am to Alamo Car Rental at the Mexico City Airport. By the time we signed all the paperwork and left the airport, it was 11:00. We thought we had a 4 1/2 hour drive ahead to Guanajuato. We had asked for a transponder so we could use it to go through toll plazas seamlessly and then pay whatever tolls we accrued when we returned the car. Every country in which we’ve rented cars has operated this way.

We then made our way north 20 minutes when we reached a single-booth plaza to the autopista but the transponder registered “invalid;” the gate to the highway wouldn’t open and we were shuttled off to a busy local road. Mike looked at Waze and it seemed if we didn’t use the toll road, it would take us 7 hours to get to Guanajuato. We tried to call Alamo but got a US number and no human to speak to. Thus we did a U-turn and drove 30 minutes through heavy traffic back to Alamo.

Our rental car: Chevy Onix
Our rental car: Chevy Onix
The GPS to Guanajuato as we left Mexico City's airport
The GPS to Guanajuato as we left Mexico City’s airport

There a woman who spoke English explained that we needed to put money on the transponder at a 7-11. She walked Mike to the terminal and helped him put 800 pesos on the card. One hour & 20 minutes later, at 12:20, we were on the road again.

We arrived back at the same toll plaza and the card still read invalid. We tried to pay with cash, but the man there said it was not possible to pay with cash. We were shuttled off once again to the same local road. This time we stopped at a gas station and Mike was told the cash balance normally takes 15-20 minutes to register. It had been a half hour since Mike had added the pesos.

Finally Google Maps led us on congested local roads to a large toll booth. The transponder still registered “invalid” but they did take cash. We finally got on the autopista and were on our way. It wasn’t until over an hour later that the transponder finally worked; however it didn’t work on all the highways.

So, between an auto accident where we were rerouted and between a huge traffic jam getting into Guanajuato and then getting lost in the city, the drive which was supposed to take 4 1/2 hours took us 7 hours.

Guanajuato: Hotel Terra Vista

We arrived at the amazing Hotel Terra Vista, where we had a beautiful apartment. It was huge, and actually slept 8 people including a fold-out couch.

Hotel Terra Vista
Hotel Terra Vista
Master bedroom at Hotel Terra Vista
Master bedroom at Hotel Terra Vista
shower and bathroom at Hotel Terra Vista
shower and bathroom at Hotel Terra Vista
spare bedroom at Hotel Terra Vista
spare bedroom at Hotel Terra Vista
dining room at Hotel Terra Vista
dining room at Hotel Terra Vista
living room at Hotel Terra Vista
living room at Hotel Terra Vista
kitchen at Hotel Terra Vista
kitchen at Hotel Terra Vista

We headed off quickly to eat at a nearby seafood place as we were told it closed at 7:00 p.m.

Mexican restaurant near Hotel Terra Vista
Mexican restaurant near Hotel Terra Vista
Mexican restaurant near Hotel Terra Vista
Mexican restaurant near Hotel Terra Vista
Mexican restaurant near Hotel Terra Vista
Mexican restaurant near Hotel Terra Vista
Mexican restaurant near Hotel Terra Vista
Mexican restaurant near Hotel Terra Vista

Steps: 4,329; Miles 1.83. Weather Mexico City: Hi 70°, Lo 48°. Mostly Cloudy / Guanajuato: Hi 73°, Lo 50°. Cloudy with some rain.

Saturday, February 22: We enjoyed our first view of Guanajuato from our beautiful apartment in Hotel Terra Vista, owned by Canadians Susan and Endre Pataky. The workshop pictured is used extensively by the owner Endre; he builds custom furniture for people and has served as general contractor for the building of the property itself. We adored this place!

The owners kept chickens on the property and each morning put out fresh eggs which guests could buy and use. We had bought four the night before, so we whipped up scrambled eggs for breakfast.

morning view from Hotel Terra Vista
morning view from Hotel Terra Vista
patio at Hotel Terra Vista
patio at Hotel Terra Vista
master bedroom at Hotel Terra Vista
master bedroom at Hotel Terra Vista
living room at Hotel Terra Vista
living room at Hotel Terra Vista
patio at Hotel Terra Vista
patio at Hotel Terra Vista
Hotel Terra Vista
Hotel Terra Vista
Hotel Terra Vista
Hotel Terra Vista
Endre's woodworking shop at Hotel Terra Vista
Endre’s woodworking shop at Hotel Terra Vista

After breakfast, we walked from the patio area of our Terra Vista Apartment down the road and then down 280 steps into the center of Guanajuato City, capital of the state of Guanajuato. The city was made prosperous in the late 18th century by silver mining; by 1780, Guanajuato was the world’s single biggest silver city, producing between a fifth and a quarter of all New Spain’s silver.

The city’s prosperity was abruptly curtailed when the Mexican War of Independence (Mexico’s war with Spain from 1810-1821) broke out in 1810, starting in nearby Dolores Hidalgo. The rebel army invaded Guanajuato when it refused to surrender on September 28, 1810, and the Alhóndiga de Granaditas, the public granary, was the site of one of the most important and bloodiest battles in the War of Independence.

While other silver mines went into decline after independence, Guanajuato’s silver mines continued to produce throughout the 19th century. In the late 1980s, Guanajuato began massive restoration projects on its many historic buildings. The historic center has numerous small plazas and colonial-era mansions, churches, and civil constructions built using pink or green sandstone. The city historic center and the adjacent mines were proclaimed a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1988.

The city of about 195,000 people (2020 census) is located in a narrow valley, which makes its streets narrow and winding. Most are alleys that cars cannot pass through, and some are long sets of stairs up the mountainsides. Many of the city’s thoroughfares are partially or fully underground. We were told there are 28 tunnels that run under the city.

Our first encounter with a church in town was Iglesia San Francisco, a church and former convent, originally built in the 18th century by Franciscan friars as accompaniment to their school and orphanage. The church has a stunning pink sandstone churrigueresque entryway.

walking down the steps into Guanajuato
walking down the steps into Guanajuato
walking down the steps into Guanajuato
walking down the steps into Guanajuato
walking down the steps into Guanajuato
walking down the steps into Guanajuato
walking down the steps into Guanajuato
walking down the steps into Guanajuato
walking down the steps into Guanajuato
walking down the steps into Guanajuato
walking down the steps into Guanajuato
walking down the steps into Guanajuato
walking down the steps into Guanajuato
walking down the steps into Guanajuato
walking down the steps into Guanajuato
walking down the steps into Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Iglesia de San Francisco in Guanajuato
Iglesia de San Francisco in Guanajuato
Iglesia de San Francisco in Guanajuato
Iglesia de San Francisco in Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato

We strolled through to the Jardín de la Unión & Teatro Juárez. The Jardín de la Unión is a lively square with square-clipped trees that sits in front of Teatro Juárez. It’s surrounded by shops and cafes and is a great place to sit in the shade and watch the bustle all around.

The Jardín de la Unión was once the atrium of a large San Diegan convent in the city center. It was converted to a public space during the post-independence Reformation of the early 19th century.

We climbed to a rooftop cafe where we shared a waffle, sipped coffee, and enjoyed the views of Teatro Juárez, accompanied by the songs “Farolito” by Gilberto Gil & Natalia Lafourcade and “Tú Sí Sabes Quererme (feat. Los Macorinos)” by Natalia Lafourcade.

Back at street level, I found two beautiful bracelets at a shop across from Teatro Juárez. Then we walked all around the lively Jardín de la Unión.

Teatro Juárez
Teatro Juárez
cafe overlooking Teatro Juárez
cafe overlooking Teatro Juárez
mural in cafe
mural in cafe
Teatro Juárez
Teatro Juárez
Jardín de la Unión
Jardín de la Unión
me at a cute shop
me at a cute shop
Jardín de la Unión
Jardín de la Unión
Jardín de la Unión
Jardín de la Unión
img_3539
Mike at Jardín de la Unión
Mike at Jardín de la Unión
me at Jardín de la Unión
me at Jardín de la Unión

What a colorful and lively city Guanajuato is! We continued our aimless wanderings, admiring the city’s sherbet-colored colonial buildings, its plethora of churches, Guanajuato University, & the triangle-shaped esplanade, Plaza de la Paz, with its striking yellow Basilica de Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato, the city’s first parish church. In 1957, the church was upgraded from parroquia (parish church) to the elevated title of basilica. Built in the 17th century with funds from the mines, the building’s brightly painted facade is largely original, though its churrigueresque bell tower was added in the 19th century. Each of the church’s three entryways is surrounded by a lovely hand-carved sandstone facade.

The basilica’s interior is a wash of subtle pastels, marble floors and shiny crystal. The walls are painted with delicate frescoes in pink, aqua and white.

We stopped for lunch at La Tasca de la Paz. We tried the traditional dish, Enchiladas de Minero Rico (Tortillas de maíz bañadas en salsa de chile guajillo acompañada de papas y zanahoria) and Consomé Casero: Apapacho de pollo con verduras. We enjoyed people-watching and listening to the tune of “Eternal Life” by Palaye Royale.

Later we walked by the university and saw the imposing Templo de la Compañia de Jesús, an exquisite pink sandstone church that was constructed 1747-1765 by Jesuit priests. Another boon of the silver trade, the large neoclassical cupola behind the main facade was added to the building during the 19th century, commissioned by the Jesuit brother of a mining magnate.

Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
me in Guanajuato
me in Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Basilica de Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato
Basilica de Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato
Basilica de Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato
Basilica de Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato
Basilica de Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato
Basilica de Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato
Basilica de Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato
Basilica de Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato
Basilica de Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato
Basilica de Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Plaza de la Paz
Plaza de la Paz
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
La Tasca de la Paz
La Tasca de la Paz
Enchiladas de Minero Rico (Tortillas de maíz bañadas en salsa de chile guajillo acompañada de papas y zanahoria) at La Tasca de la Paz
Enchiladas de Minero Rico (Tortillas de maíz bañadas en salsa de chile guajillo acompañada de papas y zanahoria) at La Tasca de la Paz
Consomé Casero: Apapacho de pollo con verduras at La Tasca de la Paz
Consomé Casero: Apapacho de pollo con verduras at La Tasca de la Paz
Plaza de la Paz
Plaza de la Paz
Basilica de Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato
Basilica de Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Templo de la Compañia de Jesús
Templo de la Compañia de Jesús
Templo de la Compañia de Jesús
Templo de la Compañia de Jesús
Guanajuato University (the tall white building)
Guanajuato University (the tall white building)
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Jardin de la Union in Guanajuato
Jardin de la Union in Guanajuato
A girl in a quinceañera dress walks past Teatro Juárez
A girl in a quinceañera dress walks past Teatro Juárez
Teatro Juárez

Teatro Juárez is a historical 19th century theater located in Guanajuato. It was built from 1872 to 1903 from a design by architect José Noriega and by order of General Florencio Antillón. The building was completed by architect Antonio Rivas Mercado and engineer Alberto Malo, who implemented refurbishments that significantly changed the exterior and interior.

The building has an opulent neoclassical facade emblematic of the Porfiriato, the period of rule of President Porfirio Díaz, which ended with the Mexican Revolution of 1910. The theater was inaugurated in 1903 with a performance of Verdi’s Aida. The building eventually fell into disrepair; attempts to restore the building began in the 1950s and went through 1973. Now it is a prominent performing arts venue.

Looking out over the Jardín de la Unión, Teatro Juárez has 12 Doric columns supporting a cornice topped by a row of black stone muses. Inside, the Gran Salón Auditorio, influenced by Moorish design, is decorated with hand-cut wood-and-stucco relief painted in brilliant reds, blues and golds.

Teatro Juárez
Teatro Juárez
Teatro Juárez
Teatro Juárez
Teatro Juárez
Teatro Juárez
Teatro Juárez
Teatro Juárez
Teatro Juárez
Teatro Juárez
Teatro Juárez
Teatro Juárez
Teatro Juárez
Teatro Juárez
Teatro Juárez
Teatro Juárez
Teatro Juárez
Teatro Juárez
Teatro Juárez
Teatro Juárez
Teatro Juárez
Teatro Juárez
Funicular Panorámico & El Pípila

After our visit to Teatro Juárez, we took the Funicular Panorámico, just behind the theater, up the hillside to the rose-colored El Pípila statue. From the public esplanade, we found magnificent views of Guanajuato in the ravine below.

view from the top of the Funicular Panorámico
view from the top of the Funicular Panorámico
view from the top of the Funicular Panorámico
view from the top of the Funicular Panorámico
view from the top of the Funicular Panorámico
view from the top of the Funicular Panorámico
view from the top of the Funicular Panorámico
view from the top of the Funicular Panorámico
view from the top of the Funicular Panorámico
view from the top of the Funicular Panorámico
Mike at the top of the Funicular Panorámico
Mike at the top of the Funicular Panorámico
me at the top of the Funicular Panorámico
me at the top of the Funicular Panorámico
Mike with a new friend
Mike with a new friend
El Pípila statue
El Pípila statue
Hotel Terra Vista

We took a short walk back to our apartment, relaxed, sipped cold cervezas, & chatted with a British couple and a couple from Brooklyn, Scott & Alexandra. We talked a lot about the horrors that our new president is bringing to the world. Scott & Alexandra are very active in Democratic politics in Brooklyn. Of course as New Yorkers, they have a long-standing hatred of the 🍊 💩.

Hotel Terra Vista
Hotel Terra Vista
chickens at Hotel Terra Vista
chickens at Hotel Terra Vista
chickens at Hotel Terra Vista
chickens at Hotel Terra Vista
patio at Hotel Terra Vista
patio at Hotel Terra Vista

After our long and lively discussion, Mike and I walked to a little hole-in-the-wall taco 🌮 place where we brought back delicious taco makings: mine was champignons & veggies & Mike’s was a unknown combo of meats and veggies. We set up the tacos in our apartment and enjoyed a delicious local meal.

dinnertime
dinnertime
our meal in our apartment
our meal in our apartment
our meal in our apartment
our meal in our apartment

Steps: 11,357; Miles 4.81. Weather: Hi 78°, Lo 48°. Mostly sunny.

Universidad de Guanajuato

Sunday, February 23: On Sunday, after breakfast in our apartment, we walked down to the town center to see the Universidad de Guanajuato (University of Guanajuato), a university based in the Mexican state of Guanajuato, made up of about 47,108 students in programs ranging from high school level to the doctorate level. Over 30,893 of those are pursuing undergraduate, masters, and doctorate degrees and 16,215 are in high school. The university offers 215 academic programs, including 117 postgraduate programs, and 90 bachelor’s degrees. The university has schools in fourteen cities throughout the state of Guanajuato.

We had read you could climb to the roof of the massive building for fabulous views of the town, but when we arrived eager to climb, we were told it was closed on Sunday and we should come back Monday through Friday.

breakfast
breakfast
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Universidad de Guanajuato
Universidad de Guanajuato
Universidad de Guanajuato
Universidad de Guanajuato
Templo de la Compañia
Templo de la Compañia
Museo Casa Diego Rivera

We headed instead to the Diego Rivera Museum. The Museo Casa Diego Rivera is a museum founded in the birthplace of the artist Diego Rivera (1886 – 1957) in September 1975 with the aim of disseminating the works of the painter and prominent Mexican muralist who captured his communist ideals in building murals.

Within the museum itself there are six temporary rooms where exhibitions of Mexican and foreign artists are held. One hundred two works by Diego are on display, including sketches, illustrations, projects and paintings.

There was a special exhibit by renowned Dutch graphic artist M.C. Escher, titled “Structured Universe.” In this exhibit the curators showed us on a human scale how everything is organized here on earth down to the smallest sized animal recognizable to the naked eye, the insect.

“The artist specialized in woodcuts and lithographs, but his mezzotints have also been acknowledged as masterpieces in the medium. His work ranges from postal stamps, to tiling or tessellated geometric arrangements, and, most fascinatingly, analysis of self-reference, conscience, and paradoxes of logic and perspective.” (from the museum exhibition).

Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Museo Casa Diego Rivera
"Puddle" by M.C. Escher at Museo Casa Diego Rivera
“Puddle” by M.C. Escher at Museo Casa Diego Rivera
"Rippled Surface" by M. C. Escher at Museo Casa Diego Rivera
“Rippled Surface” by M. C. Escher at Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Museo Casa Diego Rivera
"Drawing Hands" by M.C. Escher at Museo Casa Diego Rivera
“Drawing Hands” by M.C. Escher at Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Museo Casa Diego Rivera

It was disappointing that no photos could be taken of Rivera’s works. I thought his studio in San Ángel, Mexico City was more interesting than his birthplace home, although the home was quite nice with its central courtyard.

According to the museum: “From his stance as a militant, activist and agitator, Diego Rivera championed art with ideological content and the post-revolutionary social struggle to constitute the Mexican nation, with the muralist movement at the center of his socialist art designed to reach the masses.”

Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Museo Casa Diego Rivera
statue of Diego Rivera near the Museo Casa Diego Rivera
statue of Diego Rivera near the Museo Casa Diego Rivera

For me, the most interesting part of the museum included black & white photos of Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo.

Frida Kahlo
Frida Kahlo
Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo
Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo
Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo
Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo
Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo
Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo

We finished our visit at the Museo Casa Diego Rivera in the courtyard of the house and then continued our wanders through the colorful town. We happened upon the Templo y Plaza de San Roque. The Templo San Roque is an old 18th century chapel overlooking a plaza of the same name. Originally built in 1726 by Father Don Juan José de Sopeño y Cevera, the building served as a santa escuela (Jesuit school) 1746-1794. The pink sandstone exterior has a simple stone entryway and three stone saints embedded into a wall of sandstone bricks.

Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
me in Guanajuato
me in Guanajuato
Templo San Roque in Guanajuato
Templo San Roque in Guanajuato
Templo San Roque in Guanajuato
Templo San Roque in Guanajuato
Templo San Roque in Guanajuato
Templo San Roque in Guanajuato
Templo San Roque in Guanajuato
Templo San Roque in Guanajuato
Templo San Roque in Guanajuato
Templo San Roque in Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Parroquia de Belen
Parroquia de Belen
Alhóndiga de Granaditas

The Alhóndiga de Granaditas (public grain exchange), now the Regional Museum of Guanajuato, is an old grain storage building in Guanajuato City. This historic building, designed in a spare neoclassical style, was created to replace an old grain exchange near the city’s river. The giant boxy building resembles a fortress from the outside. Inside, a spacious patio is framed by heavy green sandstone columns. It is equivalent to the regional grain exchange. Its construction lasted from 1798 to 1809, by orders of Juan Antonio de Riaño y Bárcena, a Spaniard who was the quartermaster of the city during the Viceroyalty of New Spain.

Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla and his insurgent army stormed the building during the first battle of the Mexican War of Independence in September 1810, leading to the legend of El Pípila. El Pípila (the turkey) was a cripple who had an unusual way of walking. The Spaniards had hunkered down into the granary waiting for reinforcements. El Pípila, not fearing for his safety, strapped a large stone on his back, picked up a bucket of tar, grabbed a flaming torch and ran at the only weak point of the structure, the wooden door. The stone on his back protected him from the Spanish arrows that came at him. Once at the door, he coated it in tar and set fire to it with his torch. The solid wood door was weakened and the smoke blinded the Spaniards as the rebels rushed into the Alhondigas.

After the battle, the Alhóndiga was cleared out and served as a military barracks and warehouse. During the 19th century, it was a city jail for several decades. The building became a museum in 1949.

The building received World Heritage listing as part of the Historic Town of Guanajuato in 1988.

The walls of the building’s staircases are painted with dramatic murals about the independence movement by celebrated early-20th-century artist José Chávez Morado.

In the final salon, a collection of vintage photographs shows Guanajuato as it was in the early 1900s.

Murals in Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Murals in Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Murals in Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Murals in Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Murals in Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Murals in Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Murals in Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Murals in Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Murals in Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Murals in Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Murals in Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Murals in Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Murals in Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Murals in Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Murals in Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Murals in Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Murals in Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Murals in Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Murals in Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Murals in Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Murals in Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Murals in Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Murals in Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Murals in Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Murals in Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Murals in Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Murals in Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Murals in Alhóndiga de Granaditas

Some of the exhibits in the Alhóndiga de Granaditas showed old photographs of Guanajuato’s history. One exhibit was titled “Cartonería (cardboard),” which shows Mexican folk art such as folk toys, masks, catrinas and alebrijes.

Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Retrato de Benito Juárez by Francoise Aubert (ca 1870)
Retrato de Benito Juárez by Francoise Aubert (ca 1870)
"Guillermo Prieto y Benito Juárez" (1970) by Ramón Casas
“Guillermo Prieto y Benito Juárez” (1970) by Ramón Casas
Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Romualdo y familia, ca. 1905, by Romualdo Garcia
Romualdo y familia, ca. 1905, by Romualdo Garcia
Romualdo García
Romualdo García
"Joven con sombrero y silla, de la Serie "Mujeres" by Romualdo García
“Joven con sombrero y silla, de la Serie “Mujeres” by Romualdo García
Fochoda del Teatro Juárez, Guanajuato (ca. 1908) by Winfield Scott
Fochoda del Teatro Juárez, Guanajuato (ca. 1908) by Winfield Scott
"Porfirio Díaz en la hacienda de beneficiio La Valenciana, Guanajuato," 28 de octubre de 1903
“Porfirio Díaz en la hacienda de beneficiio La Valenciana, Guanajuato,” 28 de octubre de 1903
"Cartonería" at Alhóndiga de Granaditas
“Cartonería” at Alhóndiga de Granaditas
"Cartonería" at Alhóndiga de Granaditas
“Cartonería” at Alhóndiga de Granaditas
"Cartonería" at Alhóndiga de Granaditas
“Cartonería” at Alhóndiga de Granaditas
"Cartonería" at Alhóndiga de Granaditas
“Cartonería” at Alhóndiga de Granaditas
"Cartonería" at Alhóndiga de Granaditas
“Cartonería” at Alhóndiga de Granaditas
"Cartonería" at Alhóndiga de Granaditas
“Cartonería” at Alhóndiga de Granaditas
"Cartonería" at Alhóndiga de Granaditas
“Cartonería” at Alhóndiga de Granaditas
"Cartonería" at Alhóndiga de Granaditas
“Cartonería” at Alhóndiga de Granaditas
"Cartonería" at Alhóndiga de Granaditas
“Cartonería” at Alhóndiga de Granaditas
"Cartonería" at Alhóndiga de Granaditas
“Cartonería” at Alhóndiga de Granaditas
"Cartonería" at Alhóndiga de Granaditas
“Cartonería” at Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Alhóndiga de Granaditas

We enjoyed a Sunday afternoon lunch break in a pretty square at El Cerro de Las Ranas where Mike had Pollo con mole, and I had a chile relleno. We listened to “Secreto de Amor” by Joan Sebastian.

Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
chile relleno at El Cerro de Las Ranas
chile relleno at El Cerro de Las Ranas
Mike and Pollo con mole at El Cerro de Las Ranas
Mike and Pollo con mole at El Cerro de Las Ranas
me at El Cerro de Las Ranas
me at El Cerro de Las Ranas

We took at taxi back to our hotel and enjoyed wonderful afternoon views of Gunajuato from the terrace of Terra Vista.

Views of Gunajuato from the terrace of Terra Vista
Views of Gunajuato from the terrace of Terra Vista
Views of Gunajuato from the terrace of Terra Vista
Views of Gunajuato from the terrace of Terra Vista
Views of Gunajuato from the terrace of Terra Vista
Views of Gunajuato from the terrace of Terra Vista
Views of Gunajuato from the terrace of Terra Vista
Views of Gunajuato from the terrace of Terra Vista
Views of Gunajuato from the terrace of Terra Vista
Views of Gunajuato from the terrace of Terra Vista
An evening in Guanajuato

We took a break from Mexican food on Sunday evening, taking a taxi from our place on the ridge into town and having sushi at Delica Mitsu. Caravan Palace serenaded us with “Lone Digger.”

Delica Mitsu
Delica Mitsu
Delica Mitsu
Delica Mitsu
Delica Mitsu
Delica Mitsu
Delica Mitsu
Delica Mitsu
Delica Mitsu
Delica Mitsu
Delica Mitsu
Delica Mitsu
Delica Mitsu
Delica Mitsu
Delica Mitsu
Delica Mitsu

Taking a stroll after dinner we saw the Museo Iconografico Don Quixote, which seems strange to find in Mexico.

Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Iglesia de San Francisco in Guanajuato
Iglesia de San Francisco in Guanajuato
Iglesia de San Francisco in Guanajuato
Iglesia de San Francisco in Guanajuato
Don Quixote Museum
Don Quixote Museum

Then we wandered down to Teatro Juárez where musicians were serenading people sitting on the front steps.

Teatro Juárez
Teatro Juárez
Teatro Juárez
Teatro Juárez
Musicians at Teatro Juárez
Musicians at Teatro Juárez
Musicians at Teatro Juárez
Musicians at Teatro Juárez

In the evenings, the streets of Guanajuato come alive with a cacophony of music from different bands. Around the Jardín de la Unión and around Teatro Juárez different bands play different tunes to people sitting on steps or in cafes. What results is a cantankerous brew of noise and one-upmanship. It’s a wild scene.

Guanajuato

Guanajuato

Steps: 12,390; Miles 5.25. Weather: Hi 79°, Lo 50°. Sunny.

Last day in Guanajuato

Monday, February 24: Monday morning we walked down to the town again for our last time, as we would leave on Tuesday for San Miguel del Allende.

Terra Vista
Terra Vista
me at Terra Vista
me at Terra Vista

We saw the Teatro Principal, another important theater in town.

Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Teatro Principal
Teatro Principal
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
café in Guanajuato
café in Guanajuato

We still wanted to go up on the roof of the University of Guanajuato to see the views. This time the university was open, but we weren’t allowed access because we weren’t students. The guard told us we could come back at 7:00 pm, but by then it would be dark. Finally, after our third visit, we had to give up!

University of Guanajuato
University of Guanajuato
University of Guanajuato
University of Guanajuato

We then wandered to Callejón del Beso, (Alley of the Kiss), where two balconies across from each other on a narrow street are so close that a couple can kiss each other from the two balconies. According to a local legend, two lovers from different social classes lived in houses on opposite sides of the alley. Their families were opposed to the romance. Doña Ana was a rich young woman, while her lover, Don Carlos, was a poor miner. At night they would lean over their adjoining balconies for evening kisses.

Callejón del Beso
Callejón del Beso
Callejón del Beso
Callejón del Beso
Mercado Hidalgo

We wrapped up our last day in Guanajuato by visiting the Mercado Hidalgo, one of the nicest examples of turn-of-the-20th-century architecture in the city.It was inaugurated on September 16, 1910, by President Porfirio Díaz. It was a gift to the city in commemoration of the 100th anniversary of the Mexican War of Independence. It was originally designed as a train depot. The covered market today holds a jumble of fruit and vegetable stands, taco joints, juice bars and stands selling dulces tipicos (traditional Mexican candies). The second floor holds crafts and souvenirs, mostly inexpensive trinkets.

We wandered around the 2-story market and then had lunch at a small joint called Mariscos Del Mar. Usually the portions of Mexican food are huge, so I was happy to find a light salad-like camarones tostada. Mike’s lunch, on the other hand, was huge as usual.

Mercado Hidalgo
Mercado Hidalgo
Mercado Hidalgo
Mercado Hidalgo
Mercado Hidalgo
Mercado Hidalgo
Mercado Hidalgo
Mercado Hidalgo
Mercado Hidalgo
Mercado Hidalgo
Mariscos Del Mar at Mercado Hidalgo
Mariscos Del Mar at Mercado Hidalgo
Mike at Mariscos Del Mar
Mike at Mariscos Del Mar
camarones tostada at Mariscos Del Mar
camarones tostada at Mariscos Del Mar
Mariscos Del Mar
Mariscos Del Mar
Mike at Mariscos Del Mar
Mike at Mariscos Del Mar
Mercado Hidalgo
Mercado Hidalgo
Mercado Hidalgo
Mercado Hidalgo
Mercado Hidalgo
Mercado Hidalgo
Mercado Hidalgo
Mercado Hidalgo
Last night in Guanjuato: Hotel Terra Vista

We took a taxi to Terra Vista, relaxed a bit, then took beers out to the terrace where we continued our political discussions with Scott and Alexandra, as well as Endre, the owner of Terra Vista, who is a Canadian from Calgary and was playing a bit of a devil’s advocate but not in a bad way. He was challenging us to explain our points of view especially regarding both Biden’s and Trump’s use of Executive Orders. It was a good discussion and it was fun to talk to smart well-informed people, but honestly part of the reason we were in Mexico was to escape our vitriolic politics. We did feel a common bond with this group over our beliefs in human rights, support for Ukraine, limited presidential powers, the dangers of fascism, 47 (I refuse to say his name) and Elon Musk.

Hotel Terra Vista
Hotel Terra Vista
patio where our discussions took place at Terra Vista
patio where our discussions took place at Terra Vista

Steps: 7,669; Miles 3.25. Weather: Hi 73°, Lo 50°.

Tuesday, February 25: We ate breakfast and said goodbye to Endre after he gave us a piece of bark from his woodworking shop where he wrote a number of recommendations for San Miguel de Allende and Querétaro. Before we left, he also gave us a tour of a house he’s building on the property which he intends to sell, for an asking price of $280,000. The design of it wasn’t especially to my liking, but the price sure seemed good.

breakfast at our Terra Vista apartment
breakfast at our Terra Vista apartment
Endre and Mike at Terra Vista
Endre and Mike at Terra Vista

Endre’s recommendations for San Miguel de Allende and Querétaro

On our way out of town, heading on a northerly route toward San Miguel de Allende, with stops planned in Santa Rosa de Lima and Dolores Hidalgo, we saw a colorful but strange building. We had no idea what it was, possibly a church repurposed into a restaurant?

a colorful place just north of Guanajuato

We drove on to Santa Rosa de Lima, our first stop of the day.

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  • Bosque de Chapultepec
  • Condesa
  • Coyoacán

mexico city: polanco, bosque de chapultepec, condesa, san ángel & coyoacán 3/3

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 April 16, 2025
Polanco: Museo Jumex & Museo Soumaya

Wednesday, February 19, 2025:  On Wednesday morning, we woke up to a steady rain and a forecast for more rain until at least 2:00. We decided we’d spend the morning in two museums, starting in Polanco at the Museo Jumex.

Polanco is a privileged neighborhood in CDMX, with fine restaurants, shopping malls chock-full of designer clothing stores, and sky-high rents.

The sole heir of Jumex, the Mexican juice company, has amassed one of Latin America’s leading contemporary art collections in Museo Jumex. Temporary exhibits draw on around 2600 pieces from renowned Mexican and international artists, including Gabriel Orozco, Fernanda Gomez, Andy Warhol and Jeff Koons.British architect David Chipperfield designed the museum’s sawtooth roof.

The exhibit we saw today was Gabriel Orozco’s career-spanning exhibition, “Politécnico Nacional.” The artist was born in 1962 in Jalapa, Mexico. In 1966, the family moved to Mexico City, where Orozco grew up attending schools that emphasized active forms of learning; there he was immersed in Mexico’s progressive cultural milieu.

Orozco studied at the Escuela Nacional de Artes Plásticas, UNAM (1981-1984) and then at El Círculo de Bellas Artes in Madrid (1986-1987). From 1987 to 1991, he hosted “El Taller de los Viernes” (The Friday Workshop) in his house in Tlalpan, a collaborative learning workshop with younger artists Abraham Cruzvillegas, Gabriel Kuri, Damian Ortega and Jerónimo López (aka Dr Lakra).

Orozco’s interventions into urban and natural spaces, both public and private, started out in his walks around Mexico City and Madrid in the mid-1980s. These developed into actions as seen in works such as Until You Find Another Yellow Schwalbe (1996), in which he drove around the streets of Berlin looking to park his own yellow motorcycle next to another one of the same color and model (see photos below).

Orozco’s entire body of work could be thought of as a compost of commodities.For example, while traveling in Brazil in 1991, one of his first site-specific interventions was to place discarded oranges on trestle tables in a market that had recently packed up. The fruits were carefully arranged, one on each table, and then photographed. Through this simple gesture, the market was transformed into a kind of game board, with the leftover oranges as pieces in a new system of play.

While living in New York, he created ephemeral interventions in the supermarket near his apartment, disrupting the ordered universe of products in the aisles. Gatos y Sandías, for instance, documents cans of cat food placed on a display of watermelons. Gato en la jungla mixes cans of cat food with cans of green beans to depict cats peering out of tropical greenery. In these cases, commodities were taken out of their normal circuit of distribution and inserted in a different one, captured in photographs that would end up belonging to another kind of market. This basic game between different modes of circulation and distribution has preoccupied him ever since.

Playing with the idea of commodity lies at the heart of Orozco’s practice, such as La DS (1993), a sliced Citroën DS as a deconstructed cultural commodity of French modernity.

One of Orozco’s most famous works is Caja vacía de zapatos (Empty Shoe Box), which was sitting on the floor of the museum watched over carefully by two museum guards.

Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Caballos corriendo infinitamente (Horses Running Endlessly) (1995) at Museo Jumex
Caballos corriendo infinitamente (Horses Running Endlessly) (1995) at Museo Jumex
Atomistas. Asprilla (1996/2024) at Museo Jumex
Atomistas. Asprilla (1996/2024) at Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Gabriel Orozco, La DS (Cornaline) (2013) at Museo Jumex
Gabriel Orozco, La DS (Cornaline) (2013) at Museo Jumex
Gabriel Orozco, La DS (Cornaline) (2013) at Museo Jumex
Gabriel Orozco, La DS (Cornaline) (2013) at Museo Jumex
Until You Find Another Yellow Schwalbe (1996) at Museo Jumex
Until You Find Another Yellow Schwalbe (1996) at Museo Jumex
Until You Find Another Yellow Schwalbe (1996) at Museo Jumex
Until You Find Another Yellow Schwalbe (1996) at Museo Jumex
Until You Find Another Yellow Schwalbe (1996) at Museo Jumex
Until You Find Another Yellow Schwalbe (1996) at Museo Jumex
Gato en la jungla (1992) at Museo Jumex
Gato en la jungla (1992) at Museo Jumex
Gatos y sandías (Cats and Watermelons) (1992) at Museo Jumex
Gatos y sandías (Cats and Watermelons) (1992) at Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Perro durmiendo (Sleeping Dog) (1990) at Museo Jumex
Perro durmiendo (Sleeping Dog) (1990) at Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Mike at Museo Jumex
Mike at Museo Jumex
Caja vacía de zapatos (Empty Shoe Box) (1993) at Museo Jumex
Caja vacía de zapatos (Empty Shoe Box) (1993) at Museo Jumex
Sin titulo (Untitled) 2006-2022 at Museo Jumex
Sin titulo (Untitled) 2006-2022 at Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Éclaircie (2008-2019) at Museo Jumex
Éclaircie (2008-2019) at Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
First Lady (2017) at Museo Jumex
First Lady (2017) at Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Mis manos son mi corazón (My Hands Are My Heart) (1991) at Museo Jumex
Mis manos son mi corazón (My Hands Are My Heart) (1991) at Museo Jumex
Cementerio (Vista 2) Cemetery (View 2) (2002)at Museo Jumex
Cementerio (Vista 2) Cemetery (View 2) (2002)at Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Mike with bicycles at Museo Jumex
Mike with bicycles at Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex

Adjacent to the Museo Jumex in posh Polanco is Museo Soumaya. The silver, rotated-rhomboid shape of this private museum is an art extravaganza in and of itself. Mexican billionaire Carlos Slim named his six-story behemoth after his late wife. Designed by son-in-law architect Fernando Romero, with guidance by Frank Gehry, Soumaya is plated with 16,000 aluminum hexagons.

We didn’t go inside but instead admired the interesting building, set off with lavender jacarandas, as we entered Museo Jumex and later, as we stood on its balconies.

Museo Soumaya

We also had views of gleaming high rises and high-end shopping malls all around.

high rises around Museo Soumaya
high rises around Museo Soumaya
high rises around Museo Soumaya
high rises around Museo Soumaya
Museo Soumaya
Museo Soumaya
Bosque de Chapultepec: Museo Nacional de Antropologia

We took an Uber to the Museo Nacional de Antropologia  in Bosque de Chapultepec. This museum presents the rich history of Mexico in a fascinating, accessible way. We were able to get close to artifacts and even a reproduction of a pyramid from Teotihuacán. Giant Olmec head statues and intricate temples sit in verdant outdoor courtyards, uniting the old world and real world. Sadly, maybe because of the rain, the outdoor areas were roped off today.

There is so much to see in this museum that even a whole day wouldn’t do it justice. We first were met by an impressive cascade in the central courtyard known as el paraguas (the umbrella), which acts as a reminder of our connection to nature.

Various halls line up around the perimeter of the courtyard showing the rich aspects of Mexico’s long and varied culture: Teotihuacán Hall, Lost Toltecas, the Mexica (aka Aztec), Ozxaca and the Gulf of Mexico, and finally, Maya.

Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
me at Museo Nacional de Antropologia
me at Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Condesa: Parque México & Avenida Amsterdam

We enjoyed a nice lunch at Santas Conchas Lonchería. We shared Tlalpeño Broth (Chicken, rice, chickpeas, vegetables, avocado, chipotle and melted cheese) and a Chili Dog (Pork sausage with chili, tomato, onion, cuaresmeño chili, mayonnaise) served with french fries. We also shared a Concha (shell), a traditional Hispanic sweet bread (pan dulce) with similar consistency to a brioche. Conchas get their name from their round shape and their striped, seashell-like appearance. Eating one was like eating air!

Santas Conchas Lonchería
Santas Conchas Lonchería
Santas Conchas Lonchería
Santas Conchas Lonchería
Tlalpeño Broth (Chicken, rice, chickpeas, vegetables, avocado, chipotle and melted cheese)
Tlalpeño Broth (Chicken, rice, chickpeas, vegetables, avocado, chipotle and melted cheese)
Chili Dog (Pork sausage with chili, tomato, onion, cuaresmeño chili, mayonnaise) served with french fries
Chili Dog (Pork sausage with chili, tomato, onion, cuaresmeño chili, mayonnaise) served with french fries
me at Santas Conchas Lonchería
me at Santas Conchas Lonchería
Concha at Santas Conchas Lonchería
Concha at Santas Conchas Lonchería

The heart of the Condesa neighborhood is the peaceful Parque México, the oval shape of which reflects its earlier use as an hippodromo (horse-racing track). The art deco park opened in 1927 and the sculpture of an indigenous woman holding water pitchers at one entrance was designed by great Mexican sculptor José María Fernández Urbina.

Parque México
Parque México
Parque México
Parque México
Parque México
Parque México
Parque México
Parque México
Parque México
Parque México
Parque México
Parque México

Parque México is ringed by a tree-lined median walkway called Avenida Amsterdam that is almost a park itself. After lunch, we walked the circular route around the walkway, enjoying an overview of Condesa, with roads running off it like wagon-wheel spokes. Each section has its own flavor, and intersects with sculptures and plazas.

Avenida Amsterdam
Avenida Amsterdam
Avenida Amsterdam
Avenida Amsterdam
Avenida Amsterdam
Avenida Amsterdam
Avenida Amsterdam
Avenida Amsterdam
Avenida Amsterdam
Avenida Amsterdam
yoga studio on Avenida Amsterdam
yoga studio on Avenida Amsterdam
yoga studio on Avenida Amsterdam
yoga studio on Avenida Amsterdam
yoga studio on Avenida Amsterdam
yoga studio on Avenida Amsterdam
Avenida Amsterdam
Avenida Amsterdam
Avenida Amsterdam
Avenida Amsterdam
Avenida Amsterdam
Avenida Amsterdam
Avenida Amsterdam
Avenida Amsterdam

After we walked around the elliptical Avenida Amsterdam, we stopped for a happy hour at Butcher & Sons. We relaxed to songs “Silbo” by Féloche and “All That is You” by Me and My Friends. Mike got two tequila shots for the price of one, with salt and lime 🍋‍. I had to remind him how to do the salt on the back of the hand, a sip of tequila and the lime in the mouth. I had a Mr. Tambourine: Hendrick’s gin, cucumber slice, lemon twist, tonic water. I am such a sucker for drinks with cucumber in them!

Butcher & Sons
Butcher & Sons
Mr. Tambourine at Butcher & Sons
Mr. Tambourine at Butcher & Sons
Mike at Butcher & Sons
Mike at Butcher & Sons
me at Butcher & Sons
me at Butcher & Sons

Steps: 10,146; Miles 4.3. Weather Hi 70°, Lo 48°. Cloudy and rainy.

San Ángel

Thursday, February 20: Our last day in Mexico City, we went to the southern neighborhoods of the city, San Ángel & Coyoacán.

Templo del Carmen & Museo de El Carmen

Our first stop was Templo del Carmen, once a monastery  and college built for the Discalced (Barefoot) Carmelites in 1615. The Aztec village of Tenanitla grew around it and became San Ángel. Today the church is an example of Herrerían-style architecture with its dome tiled in weathered Talavera and a golden baroque altar inside.

me at Templo del Carmen
me at Templo del Carmen
Mike at Templo del Carmen
Mike at Templo del Carmen
Templo del Carmen
Templo del Carmen
Templo del Carmen
Templo del Carmen
Templo del Carmen
Templo del Carmen
Templo del Carmen
Templo del Carmen
Templo del Carmen
Templo del Carmen
Templo del Carmen
Templo del Carmen

Museo de El Carmen was founded in 1938. It reopened as a museum in the well-preserved 17th-century grounds of the El Carmen monastery and college. The El Carmen Monastery College, originally for the Discalced Carmelites, provided for an entirely hermetic life and seclusion from society. The temple was dedicated to the Catholic saint, San Ángel Martir, for which the neighborhood of today was named.

The museum collection includes examples of Sacred Art. This includes Baroque altarpieces in the chapels, reliquaries, crypts, sculptures, paintings, and even the mummified bodies of some of the Carmelite friars. These were uncovered during the revolution by Zapatistas looking for buried treasure.

In the Sacristy, a golden and polychromic mudejar-mannerist inspired ceiling is crowned with a work by colonial artist and Mexican master Cristóbal de Villalpando. He faithfully depicts the origins of the order.

The Carmelite Orchard had up to 30,000 specimens of fruit trees, highlighting pear trees, peaches, olive trees, and apple trees. A small portion of the land was for vegetables for the friars. There was also a pond to provide fish and frogs, to grow flowers and to grow medicinal plants for the temple, the oratory and the school pharmacy.

The entire area was protected by a stone wall about five meters high to protect the enclosure. In the end, the pear trees from the orchard brought the most fame and profits to the College.

For the Carmelites it was also a place of meditation and reflection, as well as the basis of their economy. The entrance to its famous Pear Shop was on the corner of the Monasterio alley and the Plazuela del Carmen Street and its famous products were sold there. Today the garden is a space for enjoyment, education and recreation with cultural activities.

We also found a modern exhibit of different dance forms found in Mexico.

Museo de El Carmen
Museo de El Carmen
Carmelite Orchard at Museo de El Carmen
Carmelite Orchard at Museo de El Carmen
Carmelite Orchard at Museo de El Carmen
Carmelite Orchard at Museo de El Carmen
Museo de El Carmen
Museo de El Carmen
Museo de El Carmen
Museo de El Carmen
Museo de El Carmen
Museo de El Carmen
Museo de El Carmen
Museo de El Carmen
Museo de El Carmen
Museo de El Carmen
Museo de El Carmen
Museo de El Carmen
Museo de El Carmen
Museo de El Carmen
Museo de El Carmen
Museo de El Carmen
Museo de El Carmen
Museo de El Carmen
Museo de El Carmen
Museo de El Carmen
Museo de El Carmen
Museo de El Carmen
Museo de El Carmen
Museo de El Carmen
Museo de El Carmen
Museo de El Carmen
Museo de El Carmen
Museo de El Carmen
Museo de El Carmen
Museo de El Carmen
Museo de El Carmen
Museo de El Carmen
dance exhibit at Museo de El Carmen
dance exhibit at Museo de El Carmen
dance exhibit at Museo de El Carmen
dance exhibit at Museo de El Carmen
dance exhibit at Museo de El Carmen
dance exhibit at Museo de El Carmen
dance exhibit at Museo de El Carmen
dance exhibit at Museo de El Carmen
dance exhibit at Museo de El Carmen
dance exhibit at Museo de El Carmen
dance exhibit at Museo de El Carmen
dance exhibit at Museo de El Carmen
dance exhibit at Museo de El Carmen
dance exhibit at Museo de El Carmen

Beneath the main building, the heavily decorated Mortuary Chapel and a vaulted underground hall hides the crypts of order members and benefactors.

Mortuary Chapel at Museo de El Carmen
Mortuary Chapel at Museo de El Carmen
Mortuary Chapel at Museo de El Carmen
Mortuary Chapel at Museo de El Carmen
Mortuary Chapel at Museo de El Carmen
Mortuary Chapel at Museo de El Carmen
Mortuary Chapel at Museo de El Carmen
Mortuary Chapel at Museo de El Carmen
Mortuary Chapel at Museo de El Carmen
Mortuary Chapel at Museo de El Carmen
Mortuary Chapel at Museo de El Carmen
Mortuary Chapel at Museo de El Carmen
San Ángel

We loved the colorful neighborhood of San Ángel. We even found a cute shop where I bought a Mexican poncho and bracelet.

San Ángel
San Ángel
San Ángel
San Ángel
San Ángel
San Ángel
San Ángel
San Ángel
San Ángel
San Ángel
San Ángel
San Ángel
San Ángel
San Ángel
San Ángel
San Ángel
San Ángel
San Ángel
me with shopkeeper in San Ángel
me with shopkeeper in San Ángel
San Ángel
San Ángel
me in San Ángel
me in San Ángel
Mike in San Ángel
Mike in San Ángel
San Ángel
San Ángel
San Ángel
San Ángel
San Ángel
San Ángel

We strolled through the leafy and colorful streets of San Ángel to the Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo.

Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo

Frida Kahlo and husband Diego Rivera called this place home from 1934 to 1940, after a three-year stint in the USA.

The most interesting is Rivera’s abode. His studio preserves his art tools, with brushes laid out and jars stained with colored waterlines. Rivera produced 3000 art pieces here until his death in 1957.

Now only giant papier-mâché figures that Rivera (and Kahlo) collected inhabit Rivera’s high-ceilinged studio.

The now-museum, Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo, was designed by the couple’s friend, architect and painter Juan O’Gorman. Frida, Diego and O’Gorman each had their own separate house: Frida’s (the blue one) and O’Gorman’s have been cleared for temporary exhibits.

The houses are linked by a walkway, visually reflecting their joined but separate lives.

Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Diego Rivera's bedroom at Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Diego Rivera’s bedroom at Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
me near the walkway to Frida's house at Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
me near the walkway to Frida’s house at Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo

It was here that Mexican artist Frida Kahlo painted two works that established her true artistry: Lo Que el Agua Me Dió (depicting her whole life in a bathtub) and El Difunto Dimas (of a deceased child).

Frida returned alone to her Coyoacán home in 1941 and remained there until her death in 1954.

Frida's bedroom at Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Frida’s bedroom at Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Frida's bathroom at Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Frida’s bathroom at Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Maque Café

After visiting the Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo, and before going to Coyoacán, we stopped into the adorable Maque Café, where we enjoyed a delicious lunch. I had wanted to try a mole dish and so ordered Enmoladas: Mole de la casa, pollo, crema y queso. It was scrumptious!

I didn’t know exactly what made an enmolada different from an enchilada. From all appearances they seemed alike. But Mike did a little research and found an enchilada is a taco prepared with a tortilla that has been previously soaked in a hot-pepper (chile) tomato sauce; an enmolada is a taco prepared with a tortilla that has been previously soaked in “mole.” Mole is a sauce that goes back to the Aztecs and is prepared with hot pepper and chocolate.

Mike ordered two Empanadas, acompañada de ensalada: Jamón con queso & Espinacas con queso. We shared one but took home the spinach empañada, only to forget to take it out of our refrigerator when we left Mexico City on Friday morning. 😱😓😥😰

Yet another pleasant dining experience in Mexico City.

Maque Café
Maque Café
Maque Café
Maque Café
Enmoladas: Mole de la casa, pollo, crema y queso
Enmoladas: Mole de la casa, pollo, crema y queso
Mike at Maque Café
Mike at Maque Café
me at Maque Café
me at Maque Café
Coyoacán: Museo Casa de León Trotsky

I had read a book, In the Casa Azul: A Novel of Revolution and Betrayal by Meaghan Delahunt, before coming to Mexico. The novel told, in a rather disjointed fashion, the story of León Trotsky and his exile in Mexico. Thus, I was interested in seeing the Museo Casa de León Trotsky in Coyoacán.

Having come second to Stalin in the power struggle in the Soviet Union, Trotsky was expelled in 1929 and condemned to death in absentia. In 1937 he found refuge in Mexico. No other countries would accept him. Trotsky and his wife Natalia lived briefly in Frida Kahlo’s Blue House, but after falling out with Kahlo (following an affair) and Rivera they moved nearby.

According to Ted Grant, in Russia: From Revolution to Counter-Revolution (published January 1, 1997):

In the whole history of the world labor movement, there was nothing similar to the persecution suffered by Trotsky and his followers. Trotsky’s entire family was wiped out, except for his grandchildren: Sieva Volkov, who now lives in Mexico, Alexandra Moglina, who died in Moscow in 1989, and Yulia Sedova (Juliia Sergeevna Rubinshtein), who now lives in the United States.

In fact Sieva Volkov died on June 17, 2023 in Mexico. He was 97. Volkov was the last surviving witness of the murder of his grandfather in 1940. I couldn’t find whether Yulia Sedova is still alive today, but it is doubtful she is.

Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Leon Trotsky & Diego Rivera in the Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Leon Trotsky & Diego Rivera in the Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Diego Rivera, Frida Kahlo, others and Leon Trotsky
Diego Rivera, Frida Kahlo, others and Leon Trotsky
Leon Trotsky in Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Leon Trotsky in Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Trotsky as a child at Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Trotsky as a child at Museo Casa de León Trotsky
a young Trotsky at Museo Casa de León Trotsky
a young Trotsky at Museo Casa de León Trotsky
"Stalin, the Executioner, Alone Remains": Central Committee of the Bolshevik Party of 1917. By 1940 there was only one survivor (Trotsky) apart from Stalin.
“Stalin, the Executioner, Alone Remains”: Central Committee of the Bolshevik Party of 1917. By 1940 there was only one survivor (Trotsky) apart from Stalin.
Trotsky's exile in the world
Trotsky’s exile in the world
Mexico Harbors the Russian Exile Nobody Else Wants Leon Trotsky
Mexico Harbors the Russian Exile Nobody Else Wants Leon Trotsky
Trotsky family tree
Trotsky family tree
Leon Trotsky and Diego Rivera
Leon Trotsky and Diego Rivera
Leon Trotsky in his garden
Leon Trotsky in his garden

Memorabilia is displayed in buildings off the patio, where a tomb engraved with a hammer and sickle contains Trotsky’s ashes. Bullet holes remain in the bedroom, the markings of an earlier failed assassination attempt in which Trotsky’s grandson, Sieva Volkov, was shot in the leg.

The house and grounds are quite lovely with abundant tropical vegetation and flowering bushes.

The Trotsky furnishings in the house remain virtually untouched.

Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
me at Museo Casa de León Trotsky
me at Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Mike at Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Mike at Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky

The photos below show the room in which Trotsky worked tenaciously for at least ten hours each day. This was also the scene of this Russian revolutionary’s final fight with his assassin: a Catalan named Ramon Mercader del Rio, one of Stalin’s agents, who on August 20, 1940, gave Trotsky a mortal blow in the head with an ice axe.

The table is covered with books that belonged to Leon Trotsky, who, in his last months of life, was working on the manuscript which would reveal the hidden side of the Stalinist government: Stalin’s biography, which he left unfinished.

Next to the table can be seen the Edison Dictating Machine dictaphone, where Trotsky used to record his work in wax cylinders like the ones that are on the table. On the left side of the desk is the bookcase where dictionaries and reference book were kept.

On the north wall is the largest bookcase, which contains the main collection of Trotsky’s library: several of his works, some of Lenin’s works, essays by Marx and Engels and 86 volumes of the Brockhaus and Efron Russian Encyclopaedia, among many other works in different languages.

In the corner is the bed where Trotsky used to rest for a few minutes during work days. One of the main worries Trotsky had about himself during his last years was the high blood pressure that he suffered from, and which caused him to have strong headaches which forced him to stop working to seek relief. Testimonies of this worry appear in his last letters and in the will that he wrote in this house.

In the museum, we studied mug shots of Ramón Mercader, a photo of the ice axe used to kill Trotsky, Trotsky in the hospital (surprisingly he didn’t die right away and was lucid enough to tell those around him to get his grandson out of the room), & Trotsky’s funeral procession.

Trotsky's study where he was assassinated
Trotsky’s study where he was assassinated
Trotsky's study where he was assassinated
Trotsky’s study where he was assassinated
Trotsky's study where he was assassinated
Trotsky’s study where he was assassinated
Trotsky's study where he was assassinated
Trotsky’s study where he was assassinated
The assassination of Leon Trotsky
The assassination of Leon Trotsky
the ice axe used in the murder
the ice axe used in the murder
Police identification card of Ramón Mercader
Police identification card of Ramón Mercader
Mercader surrounded by judicial agents in the garden of the house after the reconstruction of the events.
Mercader surrounded by judicial agents in the garden of the house after the reconstruction of the events.
Trotsky's funeral procession in the streets of Mexico City.
Trotsky’s funeral procession in the streets of Mexico City.
Trotsky in the hospital after the attack
Trotsky in the hospital after the attack

We found a small display about Lenin in the museum before leaving. Vladimir Ilyich Ulyanov (1870 – 1924), better known as Vladimir Lenin, was a Russian revolutionary, politician and political theorist. He was the first head of government of Soviet Russia from 1917 until his death in 1924, and of the Soviet Union from 1922 until his death. As the founder and leader of the Bolsheviks, Lenin led the October Revolution which established the world’s first socialist state. His government won the Russian Civil War and created a one-party state under the Communist Party. Ideologically a Marxist, his developments to the ideology are called Leninism (Wikipedia: Vladimir Lenin). 

Vladimir Lenin pontificating
Vladimir Lenin pontificating
Lenin, 1891. Krupskaya, Lenin's wife and fellow revolutionary, 1895.
Lenin, 1891. Krupskaya, Lenin’s wife and fellow revolutionary, 1895.
revolutionary literature
revolutionary literature
revolutionary literature
revolutionary literature
Vladimir Lenin
Vladimir Lenin

One of the main reasons people come to Coyoacan is to visit the Museo Frida Kahlo. Sadly, I waited until we arrived in Mexico City to buy my tickets, and found, much to my disappointment, that tickets were sold out through mid-March. That left me no choice but to return one day to Mexico City, which I happily hope to do.

La Romita

We got another Uber ride from Coyoacán to La Romita, a small colorful plaza in the midst of Roma Norte. We wandered around admiring the colorful murals, the hole-in-the-wall Tortillería, and the white Rectoría de San Francisco Javier church. Then we ambled a number of blocks back to our apartment in Roma Norte, stopping for beers at a little outdoor cafe, Chico Julio.

La Romita
La Romita
La Romita
La Romita
La Romita
La Romita
La Romita
La Romita
La Romita
La Romita
La Romita
La Romita
La Romita
La Romita
La Romita
La Romita
La Romita
La Romita
La Romita
La Romita
Chico Julio
Chico Julio
Chico Julio
Chico Julio
Chico Julio
Chico Julio
Chico Julio
Chico Julio
Chico Julio
Chico Julio
Roma Norte
Roma Norte
Roma Norte
Roma Norte
Tr3s Tonala in Roma Norte
Tr3s Tonala in Roma Norte
La Chicha Roma

Finally, we finished up our 6th & final night in Mexico City by returning to one of our favorite neighborhood restaurants, La Chicha Roma, where we had wrapped jalapeño chilies in ham and stuffed squash blossoms to the tune of “Petit nez” by King Doudou & Triplego. Yummy!

Mike at La Chicha Roma
Mike at La Chicha Roma
stuffed squash blossoms at La Chicha Roma
stuffed squash blossoms at La Chicha Roma
me at La Chicha Roma
me at La Chicha Roma
wrapped jalapeño chilies in ham at La Chicha Roma
wrapped jalapeño chilies in ham at La Chicha Roma

Steps: 14,028; Miles: 5.95. Weather Hi 69°, Lo 47°. Partly cloudy.

On Friday morning the 21st, we would pick up a rental car at the airport and drive 4 1/2 hours to Guanajuato.

 

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  • Centro Histórico
  • International Travel
  • Mexico

mexico city’s centro histórico {2/3}

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 April 9, 2025
Mexico City’s Centro Histórico

Tuesday, February 18, 2025: Tuesday morning we headed to the Centro Histórico in Mexico City. The Zocalo was sadly blocked off for a special event. Also the Palacio Nacional was closed, so we couldn’t go in to see the famous Diego Rivera murals.

Catedral Metropolitana

Instead we went to the Catedral Metropolitana. This iconic cathedral is a monumental edifice: 109m long, 59m wide and 65m high. Started in 1573, it remained a work in progress during the entire colonial period, thus displaying a catalog of architectural styles. The conquistadors ordered the cathedral built atop the Templo Mayor and used most of the Templo’s Aztec stones in its construction.

Upon entering, we were met by the elaborately carved and gilded Altar de Perdón (Altar of Forgiveness).

The cathedral’s chief artistic treasure is the 18th-century Altar de los Reyes (Altar of the Kings), behind the main altar.

Fourteen richly decorated chapels line the two sides of the building. Enormous painted panels by colonial masters Juan Correa and Cristóbal de Villalpando cover the walls of the sacristy, the first component of the cathedral to be built.

We wandered freely until we encountered a barrier due to a 9:30 Mass being held. Thus we weren’t able to see the Altar of the Kings or the Main Altar.

Catedral Metropolitana
Catedral Metropolitana
Catedral Metropolitana
Catedral Metropolitana
Altar de Perdón (Altar of Forgiveness) at Catedral Metropolitana
Altar de Perdón (Altar of Forgiveness) at Catedral Metropolitana
Catedral Metropolitana
Catedral Metropolitana
Catedral Metropolitana
Catedral Metropolitana
Catedral Metropolitana
Catedral Metropolitana
organ at Catedral Metropolitana
organ at Catedral Metropolitana
Catedral Metropolitana
Catedral Metropolitana

Templo Mayor & Museo del Templo Mayor

After visiting the cathedral in Centro Histórico, we walked next door to Templo Mayor. This temple complex was the center of the universe, according to Aztec cosmology. Dedicated to gods of sun and rain, Templo Mayor was a vital hub for religion and politics. With every ruler, it expanded and included sacrifices for prosperity. Visiting the shrines, ruins, museums and gruesome relics of Templo Mayor reveals a fascinating origin story of Mexico City.

The Huey Teocalli, as the Great Temple was known, was enlarged seven times. To show the grandeur and wealth of the kingdom, a larger pyramid was built over the previous stage every so often. Archeologists have linked each phase to the rule of a tlatoani, or supreme ruler.

The Great Temple was the most important of the 78 buildings in the great plaza of Tenochtitlan. The foremost political and religious ceremonies were held there. The building sat on a huge platform, with two stairways leading to the shrines of the gods, Tlaloc, lord of rain and fertility, and Huitzilopochtli, god of war.

Few vestiges remain from the seventh expansion, which Hernán Cortés saw, because it was destroyed in the colonial period. According to estimates, it measured 84 meters from north to south, 77 from east to west, and was about 45 meters tall.

In the small introductory museum to the temple we found “the sacred tree, upholding the sky and communication with the underworld.” It is believed to be of great significance for Templo Mayor rituals, based on its location at the foot of the Huitzilopachtli shrine stairway and the round base built around it. It is an oak tree dated to AD 1440-1469. Its trunk is divided into two arms, perhaps intentionally modified.

For the people of ancient Mexico, trees had important meaning. Its branches upheld the celestial vault and cosmic energies flowed through their trunk and roots, both from the underworld and the celestial levels, radiating to the earthly plane. These energies could be beneficial or dangerous for humankind, which made it indispensable to win the favor of the gods.

Sculptures of four serpent heads line the stairway. At each end of the façade, there are two enormous undulating serpents that have retained their original color.

One of the most important places in the Sacred Center was the House of the Eagles. It was here that the Mexica elite held their ceremonies, including meditation, prayer, penitence, and the rendering of offerings.

The banquettes in the House of the Eagles display beautifully carved bas-reliefs, painted in bright colors against a red background. The scene portrayed on the banquettes is that of a procession of armed warriors converging in a zacatapayolli, a ball of dried moss or grass used to hold the bloody spines or spikes used in self-sacrifice.

The Great Temple of Templo Mayor
The Great Temple of Templo Mayor
Templo Mayor
Templo Mayor
The sacred tree at Templo Mayor
The sacred tree at Templo Mayor
Templo Mayor
Templo Mayor
Templo Mayor
Templo Mayor
Templo Mayor
Templo Mayor
Templo Mayor
Templo Mayor
Templo Mayor
Templo Mayor
Templo Mayor
Templo Mayor
Templo Mayor
Templo Mayor
Templo Mayor
Templo Mayor
Templo Mayor
Templo Mayor
House of the Eagles at Templo Mayor
House of the Eagles at Templo Mayor
banquettes in the House of the Eagles
banquettes in the House of the Eagles
House of the Eagles
House of the Eagles
Templo Mayor
Templo Mayor
me at Templo Mayor
me at Templo Mayor
Mike at Templo Mayor
Mike at Templo Mayor
Templo Mayor
Templo Mayor
me at Templo Mayor
me at Templo Mayor
Templo Mayor
Templo Mayor

Museo del Templo Mayor houses a model of Tenochtitlán and artifacts from the site, and gives a good overview of Aztec, aka Mexica, civilization, though it has little signage in English, unlike the ruins. Pride of place is given to the great wheel-like stone of Coyolxauhqui (She of Bells on Her Cheek), best viewed from the top-floor vantage point. She is shown decapitated, the result of her murder by Huitzilopochtli (her brother: the hummingbird god of war, the sun and human sacrifice), who also killed his 400 brothers en route to becoming top god. The museum’s latest artifact is an Aztec sculpture of Xipe Tótec, a deity to which the Aztec’s made human sacrifices.

Censers were used by the Aztecs to burn copal, a resin which expels an aromatic smoke that was offered to the gods.

In many offerings were found representations of diverse gods, Mezcala-style masks, Mixtec-style anthropomorphic figures, sacrifice knives and a green stone sculpture representing a heart.

Among the Aztecs, the concepts of war and sacrifice satisfied the needs of cohesion and reproduction of society. The warrior had a fundamental importance and he was immersed in an ideological-religious system that made him want to die in war or through sacrifice, since he would then be able to pay the gods their mythical sacrifice, which had given origin to life.

Nevertheless, even though war was justified due to religious aspects, in the practical area it sought to expand territories in order to obtain diverse products through the collection of tributes.

The political and economic power of the Aztecs manifested through the payment of tributes and the control over the main trade routes, thereby obtaining food, blankets, feathers, jewelry, and various exotic objects, as well as materials and labor for the construction of their big temples and public buildings.

Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Máscara de Hernán Cortés, Danza del Marqués
Máscara de Hernán Cortés, Danza del Marqués
Máscara de Cuauhtémoc
Máscara de Cuauhtémoc
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Cuauhtémoc (Caballero águila) (Eagle Knight)
Cuauhtémoc (Caballero águila) (Eagle Knight)
Código Indio (Indio Beer Label Collection)
Código Indio (Indio Beer Label Collection)
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Censer at Museo del Templo Mayor
Censer at Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Turquoise Disc at Museo del Templo Mayor
Turquoise Disc at Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Relief of Tlaltecuhtli at Museo del Templo Mayor
Relief of Tlaltecuhtli at Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Huitzilopochtli at Museo del Templo Mayor
Huitzilopochtli at Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
view of Templo Mayor from Museo del Templo Mayor
view of Templo Mayor from Museo del Templo Mayor
view of Templo Mayor from Museo del Templo Mayor
view of Templo Mayor from Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Tiles (from Islam to the Iberian Peninsula) at Museo del Templo Mayor
Tiles (from Islam to the Iberian Peninsula) at Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor
Museo del Templo Mayor

The encounter between Hernán Cortés and Moctezuma took place on November 8, 1519. Almost two years later, on August 13th, 1521, Tenochtitlan fell definitively in the hands of the Spaniards and Cuauhtémoc was imprisoned.

Cuauhtémoc was the Aztec ruler (tlatoani) of Tenochtitlan from 1520 to 1521, and the last Aztec Emperor. The name Cuauhtemōc means “one who has descended like an eagle,” and is commonly rendered in English as “Descending Eagle,” as in the moment when an eagle folds its wings and plummets down to strike its prey; the name thus implies aggressiveness and determination.

Cuauhtémoc took power in 1520 as successor of Cuitláhuac and was a cousin of the late emperor Moctezuma II. He ascended to the throne when he was around 25 years old, while Tenochtitlan was being besieged by the Spanish and devastated by an epidemic of smallpox brought to the Americas by Spanish conquerors.

In 1525, Cortés took Cuauhtémoc and several other indigenous nobles on his expedition to Honduras, as he feared that Cuauhtémoc could have led an insurrection in his absence. While the expedition was stopped in Acalan, Cortés had Cuauhtémoc executed by hanging for allegedly conspiring to kill him and the other Spaniards.

Below are scenes from around the Zocolo: a healer near the Zocolo, a little coffee shop break at Bisquets Obregon, and gardens beside the cathedral.

a healer near Catedral Metropolitana
a healer near Catedral Metropolitana
gardens around Catedral Metropolitana
gardens around Catedral Metropolitana
gardens around Catedral Metropolitana
gardens around Catedral Metropolitana
Bisquets Obregon
Bisquets Obregon
Bisquets Obregon
Bisquets Obregon
Centro Historico
Centro Historico

Palacio de Correos de México (The Postal Palace)

Palacio de Correos de México (The Postal Palace) is an architectural extravagance of Art Nouveau, Spanish Renaissance Revival, Plateresque, Spanish Rococo style, Elizabethan Gothic, Elizabethan Plateresque, and Venetian Gothic Revival. Noteworthy elements are also Moorish, Neoclassical, Baroque, and Art Deco.

Palacio de Correos de México

Built by Italian Adamo Boari and Mexican Gonzalo Garita in 1902, the building opened in 1907 in the waning years of the Porfirato (1876-1911). The late 19th century saw Porfirio Díaz consolidate power, and a flowering of European and Neo-Indigenist architecture. The period is known today as “the Porfiriato.”

It was intended, then as now, as a main city post office. At that time, the notion of a national postal system was considered extravagant.

The Postal Palace is full of gargoyles, marble ornaments, and elaborate plaster work. Staircases are made of Mexican marbles and the bronzes were cast in the Fonderia Pignone in Florence, Italy. Inside, marble floors and shelves are combined with bronze and iron window frames. These, too came from Florence.

The stairways cross on the second floor landing, after which they move off in their own directions.

Palacio de Correos de México
Palacio de Correos de México
Palacio de Correos de México
Palacio de Correos de México
Palacio de Correos de México
Palacio de Correos de México
Palacio de Correos de México
Palacio de Correos de México
Palacio de Correos de México
Palacio de Correos de México
Palacio de Correos de México
Palacio de Correos de México
Palacio de Correos de México
Palacio de Correos de México

The Postal Palace continues to serve the postal service. It also contains a museum with displays of tools of the trade and historical documents.

tools of the trade at the Palacio de Correos de México
tools of the trade at the Palacio de Correos de México
tools of the trade at the Palacio de Correos de México
tools of the trade at the Palacio de Correos de México
tools of the trade at the Palacio de Correos de México
tools of the trade at the Palacio de Correos de México
tools of the trade at the Palacio de Correos de México
tools of the trade at the Palacio de Correos de México

The second floor is devoted to the permanent exhibition on Postal Culture. There’s an interactive room, and an introduction to Philately. The library contains 8,500 volumes and 240 historical documents dating from 1580 to 1900.

Postal Culture museum at the Palacio de Correos de México
Postal Culture museum at the Palacio de Correos de México
Postal Culture museum at the Palacio de Correos de México
Postal Culture museum at the Palacio de Correos de México
Postal Culture museum at the Palacio de Correos de México
Postal Culture museum at the Palacio de Correos de México
Postal Culture museum at the Palacio de Correos de México
Postal Culture museum at the Palacio de Correos de México
Postal Culture museum at the Palacio de Correos de México
Postal Culture museum at the Palacio de Correos de México
Postal Culture museum at the Palacio de Correos de México
Postal Culture museum at the Palacio de Correos de México
Postal Culture museum at the Palacio de Correos de México
Postal Culture museum at the Palacio de Correos de México
Postal Culture museum at the Palacio de Correos de México
Postal Culture museum at the Palacio de Correos de México
Postal Culture museum at the Palacio de Correos de México
Postal Culture museum at the Palacio de Correos de México
Postal Culture museum at the Palacio de Correos de México
Postal Culture museum at the Palacio de Correos de México
Postal Culture museum at the Palacio de Correos de México
Postal Culture museum at the Palacio de Correos de México
Postal Culture museum at the Palacio de Correos de México
Postal Culture museum at the Palacio de Correos de México
Postal Culture museum at the Palacio de Correos de México
Postal Culture museum at the Palacio de Correos de México
Postal Culture museum at the Palacio de Correos de México
Postal Culture museum at the Palacio de Correos de México
Introduction to Philately at the Palacio de Correos de México
Introduction to Philately at the Palacio de Correos de México
Introduction to Philately at the Palacio de Correos de México
Introduction to Philately at the Palacio de Correos de México

Palacio de Bellas Artes (Palace of Fine Arts)

The Palacio de Bellas Artes (Palace of Fine Arts) is a cultural center that hosts performing arts events, literature events and plastic arts galleries and exhibitions (including important permanent Mexican murals). “Bellas Artes” for short, has been called the “art cathedral of Mexico.”

Bellas Artes replaced the original National Theater, built in the late 19th century. The latter was demolished as part of urban redesign in Mexico City, and a more opulent building was planned to celebrate the centennial of the Mexican War of Independence in 1910. The initial design and construction was undertaken by Italian architect Adamo Boari in 1904, but complications arising from the soft subsoil and the political problem both before and during the Mexican Revolution, hindered then stopped construction completely by 1913. Construction resumed in 1932 under Mexican architect Federico Mariscal [es] and was completed in 1934. It was then inaugurated on November 29, 1934.

The exterior of the building is primarily Art Nouveau and Neoclassical and the interior is primarily Art Deco.

The building is best known for its murals by González Camarena, Diego Rivera, Siqueiros and others, as well as the many exhibitions and theatrical performances it hosts, including the Ballet Folklórico de México.

Palacio de Bellas Artes (Palace of Fine Arts)
Palacio de Bellas Artes (Palace of Fine Arts)
Palacio de Bellas Artes (Palace of Fine Arts)
Palacio de Bellas Artes (Palace of Fine Arts)
Palacio de Bellas Artes (Palace of Fine Arts)
Palacio de Bellas Artes (Palace of Fine Arts)

Casa de los Azulejos (House of Tiles)

The Casa de los Azulejos (House of Tiles) or Palacio de los Condes del Valle de Orizaba (Palace of the Counts of Valley of Orizaba) is an 18th-century Baroque palace in Mexico City, built by the Count of the Valle de Orizaba family. The building is distinguished by its facade, which is covered on three sides by blue and white colonial Talavera tiles from Puebla state. The palace remained in private hands until near the end of the 19th century. It changed hands several times before being bought by the Sanborns brothers who expanded their soda fountain/drugstore business into one of the best-recognized restaurant chains in Mexico. The house today serves as their flagship restaurant.

Casa de los Azulejos (House of Tiles)
Casa de los Azulejos (House of Tiles)
Casa de los Azulejos (House of Tiles)
Casa de los Azulejos (House of Tiles)
Casa de los Azulejos (House of Tiles)
Casa de los Azulejos (House of Tiles)
Casa de los Azulejos (House of Tiles)
Casa de los Azulejos (House of Tiles)

Museo Nacional de Arte

Since most museums in Mexico City are closed on Mondays, and since the city of 25 million is slow to navigate, we couldn’t stop ourselves from visiting as many museums as we could in the Centro Histórico. We were utterly exhausted but we had to stop at one last museum, the Museo Nacional de Arte.

The museum was built around 1900 in the style of an Italian Renaissance palace.

The statue in front is Carlos IV of Spain and was designed by architect Manuel Tolsá, giving the plaza here its name.

Museo Nacional de Arte

This museum holds collections representing every school of Mexican art until the early 20th century. A highlight is the work of José María Velasco, depicting the Valle de México in the late 19th century. We also found a number of Diego Rivera paintings and a mural, but sadly we couldn’t find anything by Frida Kahlo.

Museo Nacional de Arte
Museo Nacional de Arte
Moctezuma II Visiting his Sculpted Portrait on the Rocks of Chapultepec (1895) by Daniel del Valle
Moctezuma II Visiting his Sculpted Portrait on the Rocks of Chapultepec (1895) by Daniel del Valle
The Capture of Cuauhtémoc in the Lake of Texcoco (1881) by Luis Coto y Maldonado
The Capture of Cuauhtémoc in the Lake of Texcoco (1881) by Luis Coto y Maldonado
Museo Nacional de Arte
Museo Nacional de Arte
Christopher Columbus's Landing
Christopher Columbus’s Landing
Inspiration of Christopher Columbus (1856) by José María Obregón
Inspiration of Christopher Columbus (1856) by José María Obregón
Casting Net Fisherman (1875) by Gabriel Guerra
Casting Net Fisherman (1875) by Gabriel Guerra
Museo Nacional de Arte
Museo Nacional de Arte
The Huntress of the Andes (ca. 1891) by Felipe Santiago Gutiérrez
The Huntress of the Andes (ca. 1891) by Felipe Santiago Gutiérrez
Despite Everything (c. 1898) by Jesús F. Contreras
Despite Everything (c. 1898) by Jesús F. Contreras
Museo Nacional de Arte
Museo Nacional de Arte
Female Study (ca. 1919) by Ángel Zárraga
Female Study (ca. 1919) by Ángel Zárraga
The Drunkards (1896) by Antonio Fabrés
The Drunkards (1896) by Antonio Fabrés
Baroque Nude (ca. 1918) by Germán Gedovius
Baroque Nude (ca. 1918) by Germán Gedovius
Cult of Beauty (ca. 1903) by Alberto Fuster Beltrán
Cult of Beauty (ca. 1903) by Alberto Fuster Beltrán
Still Life (1881) by Manuel Ocaranza
Still Life (1881) by Manuel Ocaranza
The Hummingbird's Love (1868) by Manuel Ocaranza
The Hummingbird’s Love (1868) by Manuel Ocaranza
Untitled (Character, flowers and butterfly) (ca. 1946) by Agustín Romo de Vivar
Untitled (Character, flowers and butterfly) (ca. 1946) by Agustín Romo de Vivar
Museo Nacional de Arte
Museo Nacional de Arte
Corn Planting (1923) by Ramón Cano Manilla
Corn Planting (1923) by Ramón Cano Manilla
Yard of a Convent (Former Convent of Churubusco) (1921) by Salvador Martínez Báez
Yard of a Convent (Former Convent of Churubusco) (1921) by Salvador Martínez Báez
Yard of a Former Convent of Churubusco (1921) by Ethna Barocio de García
Yard of a Former Convent of Churubusco (1921) by Ethna Barocio de García
China poblana (ca. 1920) by Alfredo Ramos Martínez
China poblana (ca. 1920) by Alfredo Ramos Martínez
Landscape with Girl and Hydrangeas (ca. 1916) by Alfredo Ramos Martínez
Landscape with Girl and Hydrangeas (ca. 1916) by Alfredo Ramos Martínez
Portrait of María (1962) by Pablo O'Higgins
Portrait of María (1962) by Pablo O’Higgins
The Bathers (1937) by Jorge González Camarena
The Bathers (1937) by Jorge González Camarena
Adam and Eve (1945) by María Izquierdo
Adam and Eve (1945) by María Izquierdo
Memories from the Future (ca. 1977) by Alberto Gironella
Memories from the Future (ca. 1977) by Alberto Gironella
Museo Nacional de Arte
Museo Nacional de Arte
Museo Nacional de Arte
Museo Nacional de Arte
The Sea (1936) by Gabriel Fernández Ledesma
The Sea (1936) by Gabriel Fernández Ledesma
Portrait of Salvador Novo (The Taxi) (1924) by Manuel Rodríguez Lozano
Portrait of Salvador Novo (The Taxi) (1924) by Manuel Rodríguez Lozano
Portrait of María Asúnsolo (1946) by Federico Cantú
Portrait of María Asúnsolo (1946) by Federico Cantú
The Temptations of Saint Anthony (1947) by Diego Rivera
The Temptations of Saint Anthony (1947) by Diego Rivera
Portrait of Ana Güido de Icaza (1948) by Diego Rivera
Portrait of Ana Güido de Icaza (1948) by Diego Rivera
Portrait of Miss Justine Juleen Compton (1956) by Diego Rivera
Portrait of Miss Justine Juleen Compton (1956) by Diego Rivera
Woman Grinding in a Metate (1924) by Diego Rivera
Woman Grinding in a Metate (1924) by Diego Rivera
Self-portrait (1923) by Abraham Ángel
Self-portrait (1923) by Abraham Ángel
Mexico's Dawn (1945) by David Alfaro Siqueiros
Mexico’s Dawn (1945) by David Alfaro Siqueiros
Trachytic porphyries on the western side of the Tepeyac hill (1878) by Carlos Rivera
Trachytic porphyries on the western side of the Tepeyac hill (1878) by Carlos Rivera
The San Antonio Bridge on the way to San Ángel, nexxt to Panzacola (1855) by Eugenio Landesio
The San Antonio Bridge on the way to San Ángel, nexxt to Panzacola (1855) by Eugenio Landesio
A view of Guelatao, 1889 by José María Velasco
A view of Guelatao, 1889 by José María Velasco
Hacienda of Chimalpa (1893) by José María Velasco
Hacienda of Chimalpa (1893) by José María Velasco
Museo Nacional de Arte
Museo Nacional de Arte
The Cathedral of Ozxaca, 1887 by José María Velasco
The Cathedral of Ozxaca, 1887 by José María Velasco
Museo Nacional de Arte
Museo Nacional de Arte
Museo Nacional de Arte
Museo Nacional de Arte
The Metlac Ravine, 1897 by José María Velasco
The Metlac Ravine, 1897 by José María Velasco
Museo Nacional de Arte
Museo Nacional de Arte
Valley of Mexico from Tenayo Hill (1870) by Eugenio Landesio
Valley of Mexico from Tenayo Hill (1870) by Eugenio Landesio
View of the Valley of Mexico from the Hill of Gaudalupe, 1905 by José María Velasco
View of the Valley of Mexico from the Hill of Gaudalupe, 1905 by José María Velasco
Centro Historico
Centro Historico

We found a Diego Rivera mural in the museum: Río Juchitán/ Juchitán River (1953-1955).

Río Juchitán/ Juchitán River (1953-1955) by Diego Rivera
Río Juchitán/ Juchitán River (1953-1955) by Diego Rivera
Río Juchitán/ Juchitán River (1953-1955) by Diego Rivera
Río Juchitán/ Juchitán River (1953-1955) by Diego Rivera

The rest of the mural.

Río Juchitán/ Juchitán River (1953-1955) by Diego Rivera
Río Juchitán/ Juchitán River (1953-1955) by Diego Rivera
Río Juchitán/ Juchitán River (1953-1955) by Diego Rivera
Río Juchitán/ Juchitán River (1953-1955) by Diego Rivera

Páramo in Roma Norte

After our exhausting museum day in Centro Histórico on Tuesday, Feb 18, we relaxed a bit in our apartment and then went out to the charming, atmospheric, and hip Páramo, where we had a hard time choosing from the exhaustive taco menu. We shared Taco la Poblana Taquito, Taco Emalaura Taquito, and Taco Roma Taquito. It was a wonderfully pleasant experience, topped off by a delectable chocolate cake. The music at this trendy restaurant included “Cumbia de los Pajaritos” by Grupo Fantasma; “Fu Man Chu” by Desmond Dekker & The Aces; and “Take Me to the River” by Talking Heads. This was one of our favorite dining experiences in Mexico City.

Mike at Páramo
Mike at Páramo
Páramo
Páramo
sauces at Páramo
sauces at Páramo
tacos at Páramo
tacos at Páramo
Mike at Páramo
Mike at Páramo
Me at Páramo
Me at Páramo
Páramo
Páramo
chocolate cake at Páramo
chocolate cake at Páramo
Páramo
Páramo
Páramo
Páramo

After dinner, we took a short stroll around our Roma Norte neighborhood and found a cute children’s hair salon with elevated metal cars serving as chairs for the children. We ran across the Bob Dylan mural and Mike sat on the bench below posing like Dylan. Every night we were tempted by the neighborhood heladería, but we were always too full to partake. 🙂

Children's hair salong
Children’s hair salong
Mike and Bob Dylan
Mike and Bob Dylan
Heladeria
Heladeria

Steps: 13,367; Miles 5.67. Weather Hi 72°; Lo 50°. Cloudy/rainy.

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mexico city, mexico: roma norte & teotihuacán {1/3}

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 April 2, 2025
Traveling from Nicaragua to Mexico City

Saturday, February 15, 2025: Our travel day on Saturday morning involved waking up at 3:00 a.m., showering, taking a 4:00 am shuttle to the Managua airport, flying on the 6:00 am 45-min Avianca flight to San Salvador, waiting 2+ hours at San Salvador and having coffee at Tapacun, then taking a 9:05 Avianca flight to Mexico City, arriving at 11:20. A driver, Hector, picked us up at the airport and drove us to our apartment in Roma Norte by 12:30. The flights weren’t that long but the day seemed super long on top of our trip from Ometepe to Managua the previous day. Getting to and from Ometepe is truly a trek that takes a lot out of us these days!

Tapacun in the San Salvador airport
Tapacun in the San Salvador airport
leaving El Salvador
leaving El Salvador
leaving El Salvador
leaving El Salvador
leaving El Salvador
leaving El Salvador
arriving in Mexico City
arriving in Mexico City
arriving in Mexico City
arriving in Mexico City
inside the plane as we land in Mexico City
inside the plane as we land in Mexico City

Roma Norte, Mexico City

We arrived at our apartment in Roma Norte, Mexico City by 12:30 on Saturday, but of course it was way too early to check in. We left our suitcases and headed out to the charming Tr3s Tonalá, a restaurant about a block from our house, and ate Sopa de Tortilla and CHILAQUILES (con salsa verde). The weather in Mexico City is fabulous: mid 70s & sunny – my perfect weather! We sat outdoors, enjoying a leisurely lunch and talking with a Dutch couple about the horrors of fascist-leaning governments, including the U.S.

Mike at Tr3s Tonalá
Mike at Tr3s Tonalá
Sopa de Tortilla at Tr3s Tonalá
Sopa de Tortilla at Tr3s Tonalá
Mike with his chilaquiles
Mike with his chilaquiles
me with my tortilla soup at Tr3s Tonalá
me with my tortilla soup at Tr3s Tonalá
inside Tr3s Tonalá
inside Tr3s Tonalá

Then we took a stroll through a small part of the quirky and lively Roma Norte, which we loved! We found colorful houses, funky trees, a mezcal place where we sampled & bought some mezcal, a pet grooming shop filled with small fancy-pants white dogs, a panadería where we bought a donut and a peach tart for Sunday breakfast, and the supermercado where we bought some food for the apartment (snacks and breakfast stuff). Then it was finally time to check in to our apartment.

Roma Norte
Roma Norte
Roma Norte
Roma Norte
Roma Norte
Roma Norte
Roma Norte
Roma Norte
Roma Norte
Roma Norte
Roma Norte
Roma Norte
panadería
panadería
Mis Mezcales
Mis Mezcales
sampling mezcal at Mis Mezcales
sampling mezcal at Mis Mezcales
Canine beauty shop (Estilistas Caninos Profesionales)
Canine beauty shop (Estilistas Caninos Profesionales)
Canine beauty shop (Estilistas Caninos Profesionales)
Canine beauty shop (Estilistas Caninos Profesionales)
Roma Norte
Roma Norte

Our third-floor apartment at Cuadra 134 on San Luis Potosí in Roma Norte, Mexico City, was roomy, modern, and had everything we needed for our six night stay.

Cuadra 134 on San Luis Potosí in Roma Norte
Cuadra 134 on San Luis Potosí in Roma Norte
our apartment at Cuadra 134
our apartment at Cuadra 134
our apartment closet at Cuadra 134
our apartment closet at Cuadra 134
bedroom in our apartment at Cuadra 134
bedroom in our apartment at Cuadra 134

Mexico City is the capital and largest city of Mexico and it is also North America’s most populous city. It sits in the Valley of Mexico within the high Mexican central plateau at an altitude of 2,240 meters (7,350 feet).

The 2020 population for the city proper was 9,209,944 in a land area of 1,495 square kilometers (577 sq mi). The population of Greater Mexico City is 21,804,515, which makes it the 6th largest metropolitan area in the world, the second largest urban agglomeration in the Western Hemisphere (behind São Paulo, Brazil), and the largest Spanish-speaking city (city proper) in the world. It is also the oldest capital city in the Americas and one of two founded by Indigenous people. With its GDP of $411 billion in 2011, it is one of the most productive areas in the world (Wikipedia: Mexico City).

Interestingly, the city was originally built on a group of islands in Lake Texcoco around 1325, under the name Tenochtitlan. It was almost completely destroyed in the 1521 siege of Tenochtitlan and subsequently redesigned and rebuilt to Spanish urban standards. Mexico City played a major role in the Spanish colonial empire as a political, administrative and financial center.

Steps: 8,547; Miles 3.62. Weather Mexico City: Hi 76°, Lo 51°. Mostly sunny.

Sunday, February 16:  Sunday morning, we embarked on a self-guided walking tour of Roma Norte, also known as Colonial Roma, our trendy neighborhood in Mexico City. Mike found this tour in a blog called The Creative Adventurer and I have to say it was a good one. Roma Norte is delightful & charming, with lots of cute shops, street vendors, tree-shaded streets and cafés. We even found angel wings to try on.

When we travel, I usually plan the big picture stuff, like what countries and cities we will go to, with a list of things to see in each place, and I often figure out our accommodations (with Mike weighing in) and modes of transport. Mike often digs out the day-to-day details like places to go each day and restaurants in which to dine.

Two main architectural styles dominate this neighborhood: Porfirian Art Deco (French and Italian with Gothic and Moorish designs – named after President Porfirio Diaz) and Colonial Revival Style.

We walked in the pedestrian median of the Avenida Álvaro Obregón, considered the “main street” in Roma Norte. In the median are a number of sculptures from Greek and Roman mythology. We popped into El Parián, an Art Nouveau arcade.

Roma Norte, Mexico City
Roma Norte, Mexico City
Roma Norte, Mexico City
Roma Norte, Mexico City
Roma Norte, Mexico City
Roma Norte, Mexico City
leafy Roma Norte, Mexico City
leafy Roma Norte, Mexico City
Roma Norte, Mexico City
Roma Norte, Mexico City
Roma Norte, Mexico City
Roma Norte, Mexico City
Avenida Álvaro Obregón
Avenida Álvaro Obregón
El Parián, Roma Norte, Mexico City
El Parián, Roma Norte, Mexico City
me in angel wings :-)
me in angel wings 🙂
Roma Norte, Mexico City
Roma Norte, Mexico City
Roma Norte, Mexico City
Roma Norte, Mexico City
Roma Norte, Mexico City
Roma Norte, Mexico City
Roma Norte, Mexico City
Roma Norte, Mexico City
Roma Norte, Mexico City
Roma Norte, Mexico City
Roma Norte, Mexico City
Roma Norte, Mexico City

We also happened into an adorable bookstore/café,  Cafebrería El Péndulo Roma, where we were serenaded by a violinist and singer while we wandered around. Sadly there was an hour-long wait list to get a table in the café, and we didn’t want to wait that long. I would have loved to linger over coffee and bask in the mellow music 🎶. What fabulous ambiance.

truck owned by Cafebrería El Péndulo
truck owned by Cafebrería El Péndulo
Cafebrería El Péndulo
Cafebrería El Péndulo

Down the historic Chihuahua Street, we found the Casa Prunes, one of the best examples of Art Nouveau architecture in Roma. Abandoned for years, this is now a cocktail bar.

We stopped for caramel latte, a cacao & a chocolate braid at a cute cafe, Fournier Rousseau.

Casa Prunes
Casa Prunes
Casa Prunes
Casa Prunes
me in Roma Norte
me in Roma Norte
Mike at our coffee break at Fournier Rousseau
Mike at our coffee break at Fournier Rousseau
Fournier Rousseau. the cafe where we stopped
Fournier Rousseau. the cafe where we stopped
Roma Norte
Roma Norte
Roma Norte
Roma Norte

We explored the Modo Museo Del Objeto where there was a “Nonsense Exhibition” inspired by Alice in Wonderland. Lots of mirrors were involved, which we found humorous as we kept bumping into walls of mirrors and images of ourselves. According to the exhibition notes:

One of the purposes of MODO is to provide reflective elements to help understand and enjoy reality, as a form of cultural growth. In the “Nonsense Exhibition,” the inspection of some aspects of nonsense literature and the Dada and Surrealist art movements serves to challenge some conventions between what is represented and what is real, exploring magical or extraordinary things in everyday life.

In his 1871 book “Through the Looking-Glass, and What Alice Found There,” mathematician Lewis Carroll explores the possibilities of a nonsensical universe through literature, where Alice has to grasp play as the primary means of navigation in an upside-down world, where to reach a destination, she must move away from it, or run rapidly to remain in the same spot.

Although nonsense literature and the Dada movement of 1916 emerged in different contexts and employed distinct forms of expression, they share a common thread in their embrace of absurdity, rejection of conventional logic, and playful subversion of meaning.

By doing so, both challenge the viewer or reader to reexamine the boundaries between sense and nonsense, reality and imagination. Humor and games challenge the pretensions of seriousness in art and society. Their elements have influenced later movements such as Surrealism and postmodernism.

In rooms full of mirrors, we were reminded of the myth of Narcissus, which tells the story of a young man of irresistible beauty and a heart of ice who scorned the love of the nymph Echo. She, in sorrow, withered away until she became a mournful voice, but before disappearing into the air, she asked that Narcissus also know an impossible love. One day, he bent down to drink from a river, saw himself in the waters, and fell in love with himself. Insensible to the rest of the world, he let himself die leaning over his reflection. In his place, a flower was born that bears his name.

We found a plethora of oddities from “The Nonsense Exhibition” at Museo del Objeto del Objeto. The regular collection displays items and practical objects dating back as far as 1810.

I especially liked the little themed shadow boxes and the Buster Keaton and Charlie Chaplin films, as well as the irons and the metronomes, which reminded me of my horrid days of piano lessons.

I also learned this:

If we hang two pendulum clocks in a room, they will end up swinging in sync.

The almost imperceptible vibrations each one transmits through the wall change the trajectory of its partner. Slowly but irresistibly, they adopt each other’s cadence until they swing together in unison.

Physics teaches us that when two nearby objects oscillate with a similar interval, they will tend to swing at the same time. It requires less energy to move in collaboration with another than against it.

All living beings are oscillating. We vibrate, we pulse, we embrace internal rhythms like the heartbeat.

Our bodies synchronize with the hours of daylight, with the seasons, with the moon; and with other bodies.” ~ Irene Vallejo

Modo Museo Del Objeto
Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto
“Nonsense Exhibition” at Modo Museo Del Objeto

There are many designer boutiques in Roma Norte, all too expensive for our budget, but it was interesting to wander into some of them on Sunday afternoon. One such place was Golden Goose, a high-end custom-made shoe, handbag and clothing shop. The shoes we saw artistically displayed were made to order with sequins and other paraphernalia attached. The cost ranged anywhere from $700-1,300 USD! We were watched closely by security guards, but they were nice enough to let us wander through. When we asked what was upstairs, they said, rather stiffly:  “Custom-made clothing for VIPs.” Knowing our place in the pecking order, we thanked them for letting us have a peek at the workshop and showroom and continued our wanderings through Roma Norte.

Golden Goose
Golden Goose
Golden Goose
Golden Goose
Golden Goose
Golden Goose
Golden Goose
Golden Goose
workroom at Golden Goose
workroom at Golden Goose
bangles & beads at Golden Goose
bangles & beads at Golden Goose
drawing of shoe at Golden Goose
drawing of shoe at Golden Goose
Golden Goose
Golden Goose
Golden Goose
Golden Goose

We continued our walk through Roma Norte, walking through the Plaza Río de Janeiro (or Rio de Janeiro Square); it was originally named Plaza Roma but it was renamed in 1922. In the center of its ebullient fountain is a replica of Michelangelo‘s David.

The most important house bordering the east side of the park is the Edificio Rio de Janeiro. It is identifiable by the large green awning and art deco lettering at its entrance. It has a street-level exterior covered in wrought iron and art deco elements added in the 1930s. The original castle-inspired red-brick building was built in 1908. The house was once called the La Casa de las Brujas (The Witch’s House) due to the pointed tower resembling a pointed witch’s hat located in the corner of the building.

Roma Norte
Roma Norte
Plaza Río de Janeiro
Plaza Río de Janeiro
me in Plaza Río de Janeiro
me in Plaza Río de Janeiro
Plaza Río de Janeiro
Plaza Río de Janeiro
Plaza Río de Janeiro
Plaza Río de Janeiro
Edificio Rio de Janeiro
Edificio Rio de Janeiro
Edificio Rio de Janeiro
Edificio Rio de Janeiro

We had a delicious lunch at Cafe Toscano. I enjoyed a SMOKED SALMON TOAST with Ricotta cheese, scrambled egg, avocado, and capers. Mike had КЕТО: Eggs with avocado and cashew sauce, parmigiano and gorgonzola cheese, with green leaves and pumpkin seeds. It was delicious and the cafe was lively and charming. Melody Gardot sang “Your Heart Is as Black as Night” in her sultry voice.

Cafe Toscano
Cafe Toscano
Cafe Toscano
Cafe Toscano
КЕТО: Eggs with avocado and cashew sauce, parmigiano and gorgonzola cheese, with green leaves and pumpkin seeds
КЕТО: Eggs with avocado and cashew sauce, parmigiano and gorgonzola cheese, with green leaves and pumpkin seeds
me at Cafe Toscano
me at Cafe Toscano
SMOKED SALMON TOAST with Ricotta cheese, scrambled egg, avocado, and capers
SMOKED SALMON TOAST with Ricotta cheese, scrambled egg, avocado, and capers

After lunch, we walked by Iglesia de la Sagrada Familia, but sadly it was closed. This was the first church in Colonial Roma in 1910.  Then we walked back toward our apartment and relaxed for a while before dinner.

La Corriente in Roma Norte
La Corriente in Roma Norte
Iglesia de la Sagrada Familia
Iglesia de la Sagrada Familia
Roma Norte
Roma Norte
Roma Norte
Roma Norte
Roma Norte
Roma Norte
Bob Dylan mural in Roma Norte
Bob Dylan mural in Roma Norte

We topped off Sunday night with dinner at La Chicha Roma, toasting our first full day with Axolote Imperial beers. I had three tacos 🌮: Cochinita pilil: Slow-cooked marinated pork, with refried beans and nipec salsa (purple onion). Mike had the most delectable wrapped jalapeños: Jalapeño peppers, stuffed with mix of cheeses and seeds, wrapped in crispy serrano ham and bathed in a light sugarloaf syrup. We decided we’d have to come another time for a repeat of those!

murals in Roma Norte
murals in Roma Norte
me with a mural in Roma Norte
me with a mural in Roma Norte
me at La Chicha Roma
me at La Chicha Roma
La Chicha Roma
La Chicha Roma
La Chicha Roma
La Chicha Roma
Mike at La Chicha Roma
Mike at La Chicha Roma
murals in Roma Norte
murals in Roma Norte
murals in Roma Norte
murals in Roma Norte
murals in Roma Norte
murals in Roma Norte
Roma Norte
Roma Norte

Steps: 9,982; Miles 4.23. Weather: Hi 75°, Lo 49°. Mostly sunny.

Teotihuacán

Monday, February 17: Monday morning we went by Uber about 1 1/2 hours to Teotihuacán, once the largest city in ancient Mexico. It was known for its impressive pyramids and mosaics, and served as the capital of a pre-Hispanic empire. It was a hub of migration, with multi-ethnic groups living in segregated neighborhoods, which possibly led to its downfall, with studies in 2015 suggesting that it was cultural and class tensions that caused the city’s collapse.

The city of Teotihuacan is located in the Northeast of the Basin of Mexico.Its natural environment, with the presence of springs, nearby rivers and forest resources, in addition to proximity to Lake Texcoco, permitted the Teotihuacáns access to a variety of natural resources which they used in their daily lives.

map of Teotihuacán
map of Teotihuacán
Teotihuacán
Teotihuacán

The Ciudadela and the Templo de Quetzalcóatl (Temple of the Plumed Serpent)

We started at the Ciudadela and the Templo de Quetzalcóatl (Temple of the Plumed Serpent). The Ciudadela, or Citadel, was the administrative nerve center of the City of Teotihuacán. From the Ciudadela, a broad avenue runs out in an east-west direction. Together with the Avenue of the Dead, it divides the City into four sectors related to the cosmos as viewed in the Teotihuacan mind.

The avenue extending westward from the Ciudadela divides a huge square platform known as the Great Buildings Complex while at the same time forming one of the entrances to the city’s Ceremonial Center. The middle of this complex consists of a spacious plaza, believed to be the location of the city’s main marketplace, where production and local and external commercial or trading activities, were carried out. It is likely that the temples located atop the great platform were either administrative facilities or Teotihuacan’s seat of power.

We climbed the very steep steps up the Plataforma Adosada (attached platform), a four-story pyramid that is part of Templo de Quetzalcóatl. The platform was once painted only red, the “Teotihuacán red” and without sculptures.  Recent archeological explorations have found some remains of serpent heads that formed one of the four faces of one building.

The Enterramientos

We found the Enterramientos, (human burials), dating between 150 and 250 A.D., near the Templo de Quetzalcóatl. The graves, which are parallel to the walls and symmetrical in respect to the center and axis lines of the building, are rectangular, excavated out of rock and covered with stones and dirt. The burials are significant within the two different types of calendars, the sun – Xiuhpohualli – of 365 days, and the count calendar – tonalpohualli – of 260 days; the number of individuals who were supposedly sacrificed were 260.

It is believed that the individuals were sacrificed and given in offering at the beginning of the construction of the temple, due to their kneeling position, with their hands tied behind their backs. The majority are men aged 13 to 55, with some displaying cranial deformities, mutilation and dental inlays. Part of the funeral costume and offering included large collars made from actual pieces of human jawbones and dog fangs, as well as with shell imitations. Other offerings included small prismatic knives, blades and obsidian arrowheads; sea shells; ear pieces and shell disks; slate disks or texcacuitiapillis, worn at the back of the waist, in addition to figurines, cones, collars and ear and nose rings of green stone.

view from Ciudadela of the Pirámide del Sol with balloons overhead
view from Ciudadela of the Pirámide del Sol with balloons overhead
view from Ciudadela with balloons overhead
view from Ciudadela with balloons overhead
Mike climbs the Templo de Quetzalcóatl
Mike climbs the Templo de Quetzalcóatl
me climbing the very steep Templo de Quetzalcóatl
me climbing the very steep Templo de Quetzalcóatl
Templo de Quetzalcóatl
Templo de Quetzalcóatl
Templo de Quetzalcóatl
Templo de Quetzalcóatl
me ata Templo de Quetzalcóatl
me ata Templo de Quetzalcóatl
Enterramientos
Enterramientos

Calzada de los Muertos, or The Avenue of the Dead

We left Ciudadela and began walking up the Avenue of the Dead, the main roadway in the city of Teotihuacan. Early in the morning, we saw hot air balloons floating overhead.

For 2km heading north, the Avenue of the Dead is flanked by the former palaces of Teotihuacán’s elite and other major structures, such as the Pirámide del Sol. The Pirámide de la Luna looms large at the north end. Its southernmost end has not yet been explored. It has an overall length of more than two miles. Forming a right angle with it at the center of the city, the East-West Avenue divides the city into four sectors.

The Nahua people of the l6th century called it Miccaotli, a Nahua word meaning “avenue of the dead,” because they mistakenly thought that the ruins they saw on the sides and along the road were burial mounds.

Partially visible today, this 50 m wide and almost 5 km long road in a north-south direction, with a deviation of 15 degrees east of the magnetic north, also served as a backbone that structured the rest of the streets, squares and multi-family condominiums along it. The local population and visitors walked along this path; also, being a political, economic and religious center of great importance, it was possibly a pilgrimage and procession route for the surrounding towns.

The groups of buildings that line both sides of the Avenue of the Dead belong to palace and temple complexes designed specifically for the Teotihuacan state’s different political-administrative and civic-religious activities, as well as to dwelling areas for the society’s top-level hierarchy, consisting mainly of priests.

We veered off to the right to visit the Museo del Sitio, getting glimpses of the Pirámide del Sol across a field.

Avenue of the Dead with Pirámide de la Luna ahead
Avenue of the Dead with Pirámide de la Luna ahead
Avenue of the Dead with Pirámide de la Luna ahead
Avenue of the Dead with Pirámide de la Luna ahead
veering off toward Museo del Sitio, with glimpses of the Pirámide del Sol
veering off toward Museo del Sitio, with glimpses of the Pirámide del Sol
Pirámide del Sol
Pirámide del Sol

The Museo del Sitio

The Museo del Sitio at Teotihuacan introduces the city’s ancient history and displays ancient artifacts (including reproductions of human sacrifices) discovered at the site. We got a glimpse of the daily lives and cultural practices of the Teotihuacán people.

One of the principal materials used by the Teotihuacán society for the manufacture of commonly used tools was obsidian, a glass of volcanic origin brought from deposits located in the State of Hidalgo, and nearby from Otumba, State of Mexico. The fragments obtained from the carving of obsidian were used for the manufacture of instruments such as projectile points for hunting and fishing; knives for the cleaning of animals, agricultural labors, basketry, textiles and domestic work; and scrapers for work upon skins and vegetable fibers. Obsidian was also used in the manufacture of ornamental objects such as necklace beads or sculptural incrustations, as well as for anthropomorphic and zoomorphic pieces, and prismatic knives for ritual use or as offerings in human burials.

Other materials besides obsidian such as flint, quartzite and basalt were also used for the elaboration of tools, but in lesser quantities.

Architectural crest with representation of a bird pouring water from its beak at Museo del Sitio
Architectural crest with representation of a bird pouring water from its beak at Museo del Sitio
Fragment of mural displaying geometric designs. The representation of angles and circles is common among decorations on public buildings
Fragment of mural displaying geometric designs. The representation of angles and circles is common among decorations on public buildings
Fresco mural painting portraying a procession of two felines with feather headdresses. The felines are standing on circles. Their bodies are decorated with interlaced lines. The lines emerging from their faces represent water motifs.
Fresco mural painting portraying a procession of two felines with feather headdresses. The felines are standing on circles. Their bodies are decorated with interlaced lines. The lines emerging from their faces represent water motifs.
Mural painting in fresco with schematic representation of stars, bounded by wavy lines which symbolize hills or mountains. Venus is probably the subject.
Mural painting in fresco with schematic representation of stars, bounded by wavy lines which symbolize hills or mountains. Venus is probably the subject.
Museo del Sitio
Museo del Sitio
Museo del Sitio
Museo del Sitio
Museo del Sitio
Museo del Sitio
Museo del Sitio
Museo del Sitio
Museo del Sitio
Museo del Sitio
obsidian in Museo del Sitio
obsidian in Museo del Sitio
obsidian in Museo del Sitio
obsidian in Museo del Sitio
Incense braziers for ceremonial use in domestic and ritual areas.
Incense braziers for ceremonial use in domestic and ritual areas.
Incense braziers for ceremonial use in domestic and ritual areas.
Incense braziers for ceremonial use in domestic and ritual areas.
Incense braziers for ceremonial use in domestic and ritual areas.
Incense braziers for ceremonial use in domestic and ritual areas.
Incense braziers for ceremonial use in domestic and ritual areas.
Incense braziers for ceremonial use in domestic and ritual areas.
Museo del Sitio
Museo del Sitio
human remains in Museo del Sitio
human remains in Museo del Sitio
the veritable head on a platter at Museo del Sitio
the veritable head on a platter at Museo del Sitio
human remains in Museo del Sitio
human remains in Museo del Sitio
human remains in Museo del Sitio
human remains in Museo del Sitio
human remains in Museo del Sitio
human remains in Museo del Sitio
Museo del Sitio
Museo del Sitio
Museo del Sitio
Museo del Sitio
Museo del Sitio
Museo del Sitio
Museo del Sitio
Museo del Sitio
Museo del Sitio
Museo del Sitio
Museo del Sitio
Museo del Sitio
Museo del Sitio
Museo del Sitio

In the Museo del Sitio we saw a model of all of Teotihuacán along the Avenue of the Dead.

model of Teotihuacán in Museo del Sitio with Pirámide del Sol seen through the window
model of Teotihuacán in Museo del Sitio with Pirámide del Sol seen through the window
model of Teotihuacán in Museo del Sitio
model of Teotihuacán in Museo del Sitio

Pirámide del Sol

We approached the Pirámide del Sol from the backside since we had visited the Museo de Sitio first. Because it was early morning the sun was behind us so the pictures were best from this angle. When we got to the side facing the Avenue of the Dead, the sun was behind the pyramid so it was difficult to get any decent shots.

Strangely, there were a lot of workers balancing precariously on the sides of the pyramid, pulling weeds from the structure.

The world’s third-largest pyramid – surpassed in size only by Egypt’s Cheops (which is also a tomb, unlike the temples here) and the pyramid of Cholula – overshadows the east side of the Avenue of the Dead. When Teotihuacán was at its height (between 375 and 500 CE), the pyramid’s plaster was painted bright red, which must have been a glowing sight at sunset. The pyramid has 248 uneven steps, leading to an amazing view over the complex. Unfortunately, in order to preserve the structures, it is no longer possible to climb the pyramid.

back side of Pirámide del Sol
back side of Pirámide del Sol
back side of Pirámide del Sol
back side of Pirámide del Sol
Mike on the back side of Pirámide del Sol
Mike on the back side of Pirámide del Sol
Pirámide del Sol
Pirámide del Sol
Pirámide del Sol
Pirámide del Sol
Pirámide del Sol
Pirámide del Sol
Pirámide del Sol
Pirámide del Sol

About midway along the Avenue is Mural del Puma, a mysterious mural of a puma (or jaguar) 🐆,  on a wall between the pyramids.

Avenue of the Dead
Avenue of the Dead
Mural del Puma
Mural del Puma

Plaza de la Luna & the Pirámide de la Luna

The majestic Plaza de la Luna, or Plaza of the Moon, closes Calzada de los Muertos with its crown jewel, the Pirámide de la Luna. Eleven smaller temples are arranged symmetrically around the plaza. In its center can be found a temple with four steps.

Pirámide de la Luna (The Pyramid of the Moon) is smaller than the Pirámide del Sol, but more gracefully proportioned. Completed around 300 CE, its tip is nearly the same height as the Pirámide del Sol because it’s built on higher ground, and it’s worth climbing for a perspective on the dominance of the larger pyramid.

I climbed the Pyramid of the Moon in 2007 when I was at Teotihuacán, but it was blocked off on Monday. I don’t know if it’s now always blocked or if it was only blocked on that particular day.

Pirámide de la Luna
Pirámide de la Luna
lesser temples around Plaza de la Luna
lesser temples around Plaza de la Luna
Mike near lesser temple around Plaza de la Luna
Mike near lesser temple around Plaza de la Luna
lesser temples around Plaza de la Luna
lesser temples around Plaza de la Luna
lesser temples around Plaza de la Luna
lesser temples around Plaza de la Luna
Pirámide de la Luna
Pirámide de la Luna
Pirámide de la Luna
Pirámide de la Luna
me in front of Pirámide de la Luna
me in front of Pirámide de la Luna
view over ruins to Pirámide del Sol
view over ruins to Pirámide del Sol
Pirámide de la Luna
Pirámide de la Luna
Pirámide de la Luna
Pirámide de la Luna
view down Avenue of the Dead from a platform in Plaza de la Luna
view down Avenue of the Dead from a platform in Plaza de la Luna
Mike with Pirámide de la Luna in background
Mike with Pirámide de la Luna in background
me with Pirámide de la Luna behind
me with Pirámide de la Luna behind
Pirámide de la Luna
Pirámide de la Luna
Pirámide de la Luna
Pirámide de la Luna
view over Avenue of the Dead to Pirámide del Sol
view over Avenue of the Dead to Pirámide del Sol

Palacio de Quetzalpapálotl, the Palace of the Quetzal Butterfly

Southwest of Pirámide de la Luna is Palacio de Quetzalpapálotl, the Palace of the Quetzal Butterfly, which is thought to have been the home of a high priest. The remains of bears, armadillos and other exotic animals were discovered here, showing that the area was used by the elite for cooking and rituals.

The Palace of Quetzalpapalotl is one of the most beautiful and emblematic spaces in Teotihuacán, since the reconstruction work carried out on the site during the 1960s was intended to give visitors a more complete visual idea of the splendor and reality of what these constructions were like in the past. Named by archaeologists, Palacio de Quetzalpapálotl consists of a large hall whose massive pillars and pilasters support a wide roof that clearly exemplifies how they were built at the time. Each of the pillars, located around a sunken, quadrangular courtyard, is decorated with beautifully carved images of hybrid animals. It is precisely these figures with butterfly wings, papálotl in the Nahuatl language, and the heads of a bird called quetzal, that give the structure the name of the Palacio de Quetzalpapálotl.

entrance to Palacio de Quetzalpapálotl
entrance to Palacio de Quetzalpapálotl
Palacio de Quetzalpapálotl
Palacio de Quetzalpapálotl
Palacio de Quetzalpapálotl
Palacio de Quetzalpapálotl
Palacio de Quetzalpapálotl
Palacio de Quetzalpapálotl
Palacio de Quetzalpapálotl
Palacio de Quetzalpapálotl

The Palacio de los Jaguares (Jaguar Palace) and Templo de los Caracoles Emplumados (Temple of the Plumed Conch Shells)

The Palacio de los Jaguares (Jaguar Palace) and Templo de los Caracoles Emplumados (Temple of the Plumed Conch Shells) are behind and below the Palacio de Quetzalpapálotl. The lower walls of several chambers off the patio of the Jaguar Palace display parts of murals showing the jaguar god blowing conch shells and praying to the rain god Tláloc.

Palacio de los Jaguares (Jaguar Palace)
Palacio de los Jaguares (Jaguar Palace)
Palacio de los Jaguares (Jaguar Palace)
Palacio de los Jaguares (Jaguar Palace)
Palacio de los Jaguares (Jaguar Palace)
Palacio de los Jaguares (Jaguar Palace)
Templo de los Caracoles Emplumados (Temple of the Plumed Conch Shells)
Templo de los Caracoles Emplumados (Temple of the Plumed Conch Shells)
Templo de los Caracoles Emplumados (Temple of the Plumed Conch Shells)
Templo de los Caracoles Emplumados (Temple of the Plumed Conch Shells)
Templo de los Caracoles Emplumados (Temple of the Plumed Conch Shells)
Templo de los Caracoles Emplumados (Temple of the Plumed Conch Shells)
Templo de los Caracoles Emplumados (Temple of the Plumed Conch Shells)
Templo de los Caracoles Emplumados (Temple of the Plumed Conch Shells)
Templo de los Caracoles Emplumados (Temple of the Plumed Conch Shells)
Templo de los Caracoles Emplumados (Temple of the Plumed Conch Shells)
Templo de los Caracoles Emplumados (Temple of the Plumed Conch Shells)
Templo de los Caracoles Emplumados (Temple of the Plumed Conch Shells)

Here is a short video of our visit to the Teotihuacán complex.

Teotihuacán

Teotihuacán

Back to Roma Norte

After our day at Teotihuacán, we returned 1 hour 10 minutes by Uber (a guy who drove at times up to 80mph) to our apartment, where we ate a late lunch at the Counterculture Cafe in the courtyard of the apartment building. I had a classic Bagel sandwich (THE CLASSIC: Turkey ham, three cheese mix, green leaves mix, cucumber, roasted tomato with honey mustard dressing) and Mike a Salmon Lover salad (SALMON LOVER: Mix of green leaves, grilled salmon slices, roasted tomatoes, goat cheese, sesame seeds, ginger with lime dressing); we shared both.

Counterculture Cafe
Counterculture Cafe
Mike at Counterculture Cafe
Mike at Counterculture Cafe
me at Counterculture Cafe
me at Counterculture Cafe

We were exhausted, so we relaxed in our cozy apartment until dinner time, when we returned to Tr3s Tonalá for a delicious dinner of Tortilla Soup, Cauliflor roast izado, and a set of 3 pescado estilo baja tacos. I enjoyed two Vodka Collins and Mike 2 Cosmopolitans because we were there at happy hour and we got two drinks for the price of one.

me at Tr3s Tonalá
me at Tr3s Tonalá
Mike at Tr3s Tonalá
Mike at Tr3s Tonalá
delicious tortilla soup
delicious tortilla soup
pescado estilo baja tacos
pescado estilo baja tacos

Two and a half days in, and we were LOVING Mexico City!

Steps: 9,684; Miles 4.11. Weather: Hi 74°, Lo 49°. Partly cloudy.

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  • Cocktail Hour
  • District of Columbia
  • Hikes & Walks

the march cocktail hour: san miguel de allende, querétaro, & return to the u.s. hellscape

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 March 31, 2025

March 31, 2025: Welcome to our March cocktail hour. We’ve returned to the hellscape we have to call home after we wrapped up our trip in Mexico, spending one more day in San Miguel de Allende, and then driving to Querétaro, where we spent three nights. We left Mexico City on Wednesday, March 5, returning home around 4 a.m. on Thursday, March 6. Of course we were immediately barraged with continual Trump/Musk nonsense, cruelty and chaos, which will continue to wreak havoc on the next four years of our lives.

Let’s have straight shots of tequila, with lime and salt, to make our lives here more bearable. I am so envious of all of you out there who do NOT live in the U.S. Believe me, I want out as soon as possible.

I also have a variety of beers, soda or seltzer water for those of you who are calm enough to survive the next four years without angst, anxiety or alcohol.

How did your March go? Did you have a happy Mardi Gras or Carnival celebration before the serious days of Lent set in? Did you celebrate St. Patrick’s Day? Did the first days of spring bring any surprises? Have you welcomed any new additions to your family? Did you switch to Daylight Saving Time? Did you celebrate any birthdays or anniversaries? Have you read any good books that can inform your worldview, seen any good movies, binge-watched any television series? Have you planned any adventures or had any winter getaways? Have you dreamed any dreams? Have you gone to any exotic restaurants, cooked any new dishes? Have you been surprised by anything in life? Have you learned anything new, taken any classes or just kept up with the news? Have you sung along with any new songs? Have you undertaken any new exercise routines? Have you marched or otherwise participated in political protests? Have you been battered, or alternately, uplifted by any news?

Last Day in San Miguel de Allende & meeting fellow bloggers/Instagrammers

On Saturday, March 1, we spent our last day in San Miguel de Allende meeting fellow Instagrammers and bloggers, Ben and Peta of Empty Nesters on a Green Global Trek. We met them at the lively Mercado SANO, an organic market with great produce, excellent food, crafts and live music. We enjoyed our time with them, especially commiserating about the state of the U.S. and about people we know in common in Ometepe, Nicaragua. After our time at the market, we took a taxi together to their new home in the San Antonio neighborhood and saw the beautiful home that they recently renovated.  After leaving them, we went to Fábrica la Aurora, a large art gallery in barrio Aurora, then visited the cute little Museo la Esquina del Juguete (Toy Corner Museum) not far from our apartment. We took Ben and Peta’s advice and went to El Manantial for dinner, wrapping up our time in San Miguel.

me, Mike and Ben at the market
me, Mike and Ben at the market
me with Peta
me with Peta
Peta & Ben on the patio at their house
Peta & Ben on the patio at their house
murals in San Antonio neighborhood
murals in San Antonio neighborhood
murals in San Antonio neighborhood
murals in San Antonio neighborhood
Fábrica la Aurora
Fábrica la Aurora
Mike & me at Fábrica la Aurora
Mike & me at Fábrica la Aurora
Museo la Esquina del Juguete (Toy Corner Museum)
Museo la Esquina del Juguete (Toy Corner Museum)
Museo la Esquina del Juguete (Toy Corner Museum)
Museo la Esquina del Juguete (Toy Corner Museum)
Mike at Museo la Esquina del Juguete (Toy Corner Museum)
Mike at Museo la Esquina del Juguete (Toy Corner Museum)
Museo la Esquina del Juguete (Toy Corner Museum)
Museo la Esquina del Juguete (Toy Corner Museum)
El Manantial
El Manantial
Mike at El Manantial
Mike at El Manantial
me in San Miguel de Allende
me in San Miguel de Allende
Mike as we prepare to leave our Airbnb in San Miguel de Allende
Mike as we prepare to leave our Airbnb in San Miguel de Allende
Querétaro

On Sunday, the 2nd, we drove about 1 1/2 hours to Querétaro, checked into our room at Casa Aspeytia, and went out to explore the town. We stopped at the Templo y antiguo convento de San Antonio, walked through Plaza de la Corregidora and a street of shops selling Quinceañera and first communion dresses. In the afternoon, we visited the Museo de Arte de Querétaro, located in a beautiful baroque former convent. We enjoyed a fondue dinner at Bistrot Chez Julien.

Casa Aspeytia
Casa Aspeytia
lobby of Casa Aspeytia
lobby of Casa Aspeytia
Templo y antiguo convento de San Antonio
Templo y antiguo convento de San Antonio
Templo y antiguo convento de San Antonio
Templo y antiguo convento de San Antonio
Quinceañera dresses
Quinceañera dresses
Querétaro
Querétaro
Museo de Arte de Querétaro
Museo de Arte de Querétaro
Mike at Museo de Arte de Querétaro
Mike at Museo de Arte de Querétaro
Museo de Arte de Querétaro
Museo de Arte de Querétaro
Museo de Arte de Querétaro
Museo de Arte de Querétaro
Museo de Arte de Querétaro
Museo de Arte de Querétaro
Museo de Arte de Querétaro
Museo de Arte de Querétaro
Museo de Arte de Querétaro
Museo de Arte de Querétaro
Museo de Arte de Querétaro
Museo de Arte de Querétaro
Museo de Arte de Querétaro
Museo de Arte de Querétaro
Museo de Arte de Querétaro
Museo de Arte de Querétaro
Museo de Arte de Querétaro
Museo de Arte de Querétaro
Museo de Arte de Querétaro
Museo de Arte de Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
me at Bistrot Chez Julien
me at Bistrot Chez Julien
fondue at Bistrot Chez Julien
fondue at Bistrot Chez Julien
Mike at Bistrot Chez Julien
Mike at Bistrot Chez Julien
church in Querétaro
church in Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
San Sebastián Bernal and Peña de Bernal

On Monday, the 3rd, we drove about an hour northeast of Querétaro to visit San Sebastián Bernal and its famous Peña de Bernal. Mike climbed halfway up the rock monolith while I wandered around the charming town. We shared a vegetarian pizza at Terazza and then drove back to our hotel, where we enjoyed 75-minute Swedish massages, the first we had on this trip.

San Sebastián Bernal & Peña de Bernal
San Sebastián Bernal & Peña de Bernal
San Sebastián Bernal
San Sebastián Bernal
Peña de Bernal
Peña de Bernal
San Sebastián Bernal
San Sebastián Bernal
San Sebastián Bernal
San Sebastián Bernal
San Sebastián Bernal
San Sebastián Bernal
San Sebastián Bernal & Peña de Bernal
San Sebastián Bernal & Peña de Bernal
San Sebastián Bernal & Peña de Bernal
San Sebastián Bernal & Peña de Bernal
San Sebastián Bernal
San Sebastián Bernal
Peña de Bernal
Peña de Bernal
Mike at Terazza with view of Peña de Bernal
Mike at Terazza with view of Peña de Bernal
me on the Terazza rooftop
me on the Terazza rooftop
me with pizza at Terazza
me with pizza at Terazza
Pizza at Terazza
Pizza at Terazza
San Sebastián Bernal
San Sebastián Bernal
San Sebastián Bernal
San Sebastián Bernal
me in San Sebastián Bernal
me in San Sebastián Bernal
San Sebastián Bernal
San Sebastián Bernal
San Sebastián Bernal
San Sebastián Bernal
massage room at Casa Aspeytia
massage room at Casa Aspeytia
Mike in the lobby of Aspeytia
Mike in the lobby of Aspeytia
Querétaro
Querétaro
Mike gets corn from a street vendor in Querétaro
Mike gets corn from a street vendor in Querétaro
Centro Histórico de Querétaro

On Tuesday, the 4th, we walked around through the Centro Histórico de Querétaro. One of the highlights was MUCAL, the Museo del Calendario, housed in a gorgeous building with numerous flowering courtyards. After a very blah lunch at Yougan Sushi, we visited the Museo Regional de Querétaro, housed in another beautiful monastery. Finally, we visited the Mercado de la Cruz, the city’s large covered market. Our last night, we had a lovely dinner and sunset on the terrace of our hotel, Casa Aspeytia, at the restaurant Terraza la Grupa.

Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
MUCAL, the Museo del Calendario
MUCAL, the Museo del Calendario
MUCAL, the Museo del Calendario
MUCAL, the Museo del Calendario
me at MUCAL, the Museo del Calendario
me at MUCAL, the Museo del Calendario
MUCAL, the Museo del Calendario
MUCAL, the Museo del Calendario
MUCAL, the Museo del Calendario
MUCAL, the Museo del Calendario
MUCAL, the Museo del Calendario
MUCAL, the Museo del Calendario
MUCAL, the Museo del Calendario
MUCAL, the Museo del Calendario
MUCAL, the Museo del Calendario
MUCAL, the Museo del Calendario
MUCAL, the Museo del Calendario
MUCAL, the Museo del Calendario
MUCAL, the Museo del Calendario
MUCAL, the Museo del Calendario
cute shop in Querétaro
cute shop in Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
Yougan Sushi
Yougan Sushi
Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
Museo Regional de Querétaro
Museo Regional de Querétaro
Museo Regional de Querétaro
Museo Regional de Querétaro
Museo Regional de Querétaro
Museo Regional de Querétaro
Museo Regional de Querétaro
Museo Regional de Querétaro
Museo Regional de Querétaro
Museo Regional de Querétaro
Museo Regional de Querétaro
Museo Regional de Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
Querétaro
Mercado de la Cruz
Mercado de la Cruz
Mercado de la Cruz
Mercado de la Cruz
Mercado de la Cruz
Mercado de la Cruz
Mercado de la Cruz
Mercado de la Cruz
Mercado de la Cruz
Mercado de la Cruz
Mercado de la Cruz
Mercado de la Cruz
Querétaro
Querétaro
Terraza la Grupa
Terraza la Grupa
Terraza la Grupa
Terraza la Grupa
Terraza la Grupa
Terraza la Grupa
Terraza la Grupa
Terraza la Grupa
Terraza la Grupa
Terraza la Grupa
Terraza la Grupa
Terraza la Grupa
Returning home via Mexico City and San Salvador

We had to drive 3 1/2 hours back to Mexico City on Wednesday, the 5th. We turned in the rental car and checked in at the airport for our 4:50 p.m. flight to San Salvador and then on to Dulles. Sadly, our flight was delayed and we missed our connecting flight, getting us home at 4 a.m. on Thursday morning.

a long wait in San Salvador
a long wait in San Salvador
finally home in Virginia
finally home in Virginia
Back in the U.S. hellscape

The moment we landed on U.S. soil, our bliss ended. Every day has been one disgusting travesty after another. Any of you can read about the outrageous behavior of our current administration as they: ruin what was a good economy under Biden; tank the stock market; methodically dismantle the entire U.S. government, including the “soft power” agency of USAID that helped people all over the world; impose outrageous tariffs on our allies; and belittle and threaten Canada, Greenland and Ukraine’s war hero and president Zelenskyy. I despise these incompetent and destructive people with every ounce of my being, and I will never forgive the people that chose this Nazi-loving administration over Kamala Harris and Tim Walz.

daffodils in Reston
daffodils in Reston
cherry blossoms
cherry blossoms
forsythia
forsythia
The cross-county trail (CCT)
The cross-county trail (CCT)
The cross-county trail (CCT)
The cross-county trail (CCT)
spring in Virginia
spring in Virginia
spring in Virginia
spring in Virginia

Once we returned home, I had to visit the eye doctor (ophthalmologist). When I had my fitting for new glasses with the optician, he and I had an enthusiastic talk comparing our travels and our love of travel. He gave me his Instagram so I could follow him. When I got home, I looked more closely at his account and found he followed a bunch of right wingers including Charlie Kirk and other slimeballs. I immediately unfollowed him.

It was rather awkward when I went to pick up my glasses. We suddenly were very cold to each other. He obviously had seen my left-leaning posts and I had seen his right. Not even a smile passed between us. I was determined to give him the cold shoulder, which I am VERY good at doing. Funny thing was that he was giving me the cold shoulder in equal measure. Nothing had to be said, because we each knew which side the other was on. This, in a nutshell, is the state of our country today. As soon as I picked up my glasses, I blocked him on Instagram. I will forever blame everyone who voted for our monster president for the demise of our country and the values we once held dear.

Mike and I went to Angelika Theatre to see the Brazilian movie, I’m Still Here, which was incredibly disturbing. It showed what can happen in dictatorships when governments decide to make people “disappear.” Much like Putin and other murderous leaders do today, we can see Trump and his minions “disappearing” immigrants (even those with legal status) because they’ve spoken out again Israel’s relentless bombing of Gaza on college campuses. Some Venezuelan men were deported into horrible prisons in El Salvador with no due process and against a judge’s order to turn back the planes. We have descended here into full-blown fascism.

We started watching the newest season of White Lotus, in which obnoxious rich people treat other people like crap. It’s pretty much the story of the day here in the U.S.

We ate crab cakes at Arties and Larb Gai at Vienna Thai and Bar.

me with my Ford Bronco Sport
me with my Ford Bronco Sport
crab cakes at Artie's
crab cakes at Artie’s
Mike at Artie's
Mike at Artie’s
me at Artie's
me at Artie’s
my fancy drink at Vienna Thai & Bar
my fancy drink at Vienna Thai & Bar
Mike at Vienna Thai & Bar
Mike at Vienna Thai & Bar
me at Vienna Thai & Bar
me at Vienna Thai & Bar
dinner at Vienna Thai & Bar
dinner at Vienna Thai & Bar
Larb Gai at Vienna Thai & Bar
Larb Gai at Vienna Thai & Bar
Alex turns 34

Alex turned 34 on the 10th in Atlanta, and Jandira treated them both to couples massages and then a nice dinner out. They have hardly used any babysitters since Allie was born, but luckily they were able to get one for Alex’s special day. We had a WhatsApp chat with them to wish Alex a happy birthday.

Costa Rica plans: Preparations are underway

We booked a house near Tilaran, on Lake Arenal, in Costa Rica beginning in June 1. We have it definitely until November 30, with a possible option to stay through March 15. We want to stay in Costa Rica a year, so we’ll see how things shake out with finding another place to live for the remaining time. From Costa Rica, we can easily travel across the border into Nicaragua and visit the family in Ometepe. We hope to have at least four short visits with them while we’re there. Besides that, we want to explore more of Costa Rica, as well as Panama, Guatemala and Belize.

Alex and Jandira have agreed to live in our house while we’re gone which helps them and us at the same time. We’ll have the added benefit of coming back to the house when we return home and seeing them without having to go to Atlanta. We hope to return home in early October for Allie’s 2nd birthday and to cast our early vote for governor of Virginia, Abigail Spanberger. Other than that, we hope not to return home until May 31, 2026, and then only briefly.

Since they will be living in our house, we need to declutter and move things out of the master bedroom so they can take over there, using the closet and all the dressers. We have a lot to do in that regard. We went to the Container Store so a closet designer could help us convert the smallest bedroom to a closet. Both of us need to buy new laptops (my laptop is from 2011) and I need a new phone. I bought a 15″ Apple MacBook Air during the last week in March and am working on setting it up properly.  Hopefully these things will be the last things we have to spend money on in the U.S. for the next year. My goal is to boycott as much as possible in the U.S. for at least 75% of the next four years. I don’t want to contribute to any billionaire’s pockets.

Our daughter gets a new job in Richmond

Meanwhile, my daughter Sarah, who has been working as a paralegal in a Virginia Beach law firm for the last two years, applied for and was offered a job with a women-owned law firm in Richmond, enabling her to move back to Richmond, always her goal. I’m so excited that she will be returning to the city where she wants to live long-term, and that she gets to embark on a career-expanding move.

A book talk about The Fifteen at Politics & Prose

We went downtown to Politics & Prose in D.C. to listen to a book talk given by my ex-husband (& my daughter Sarah’s father), William Geroux, on his newest book: The Fifteen: Murder, Retribution & the Forgotten Story of Nazi POWS in America. It was great to see him and his wife Kema, and Bill’s newest book seems super interesting. As always, Bill gave a great talk. He has also written two other books: The Mathews Men: Seven Brothers and the War Against Hitler’s U-boats and The Ghost Ships of Archangel: The Arctic Voyage That Defied the Nazis.

Thomas Kapsidelis and William Geroux (r) at Bill's book talk at Politics & Prose
Thomas Kapsidelis and William Geroux (r) at Bill’s book talk at Politics & Prose
me at Politics & Prose
me at Politics & Prose
Bill's book
Bill’s book
Politics & Prose
Politics & Prose
Politics & Prose
Politics & Prose
Politics & Prose
Politics & Prose
Dinner at Comet Ping Pong

After the book talk, Bill and Kema had plans for dinner, so Mike and I went to Comet Ping Pong for dinner. The place is an old D.C. standby but infuriatingly, since the rise of conspiracy theories and outright lies beginning with the FELON’s rise in 2016, the restaurant was the focus of the Pizzagate conspiracy theory, which has been discredited by a wide variety of organizations, including the Metropolitan Police Department of the District of Columbia. “Pizzagate” is a conspiracy theory that went viral during the 2016 United States presidential election cycle, falsely claiming that the New York City Police Department (NYPD) had discovered a pedophilia ring linked to members of the Democratic Party while searching through Anthony Weiner’s emails. One Pizzagate activist fired a gun in the restaurant in 2016, and another started a fire in it in 2019. Our server told us that even today, the restaurant still gets threats. He said the conspiracy theory, though disgusting and an outright lie, did make the restaurant more popular. We were thrilled to give them our business.

Mike at Comet Ping Pong
Mike at Comet Ping Pong
Comet Ping Pong
Comet Ping Pong
Mike at Comet Ping Pong
Mike at Comet Ping Pong
Miscellaneous stuff

I finished 4 books in March, bringing my total to 11/48 for the year, with my favorites being North of Dawn by Nuruddin Farah and A Harvest of Secrets by Roland Merullo. We saw several movies once we returned home, including I’m Still Here, which I mentioned above, but also the Academy Award-winning Anora and Il treno dei bambini (The Children’s Train). We started watching several series including The Split and White Lotus. We finished watching Apple Cider Vinegar and we continued watching Younger, The Äre Murders, Pachinko, Virgin River, Paradise, Valeria, Black Doves, The Upshaws, and Modern Family.

I hope you’ll share how the year is panning out for you, and what plans you have for the spring and the rest of this year.

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  • Central America
  • Hikes & Walks
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ometepe, nicaragua: ojo de agua, shopping expeditions, crib assembly & family time {2/2}

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 March 26, 2025

Monday, February 10, 2024:  On Monday morning after the girls slept over, the power went out in Totoco from around 5:00 a.m. to 8:30 a.m. It didn’t matter too much because there isn’t much electricity in there anyway. The three interior lights are so dim, we need to use our phone flashlights to see anything.

We all got up and the girls played around in the yoga pavilion until breakfast time. We all had breakfast together. While Andrea, Mia and I gobbled down pancakes, Mike and Cristy ate a traditional Nica breakfast. I showed the girls pictures of my dad (now deceased), my nephew Seth, and my siblings, Joanie and Robbie. I said Joanie was the beauty of the family. Andrea said the beauties in her family are Mia, Mikey and Johnny (Maria’s oldest son who is 20 years old). I said, “No, you all are beautiful.” Andrea said, “I don’t think I am.” I think she’s beautiful, especially because of her unique and lively personality, but I guess she knows, like we all do, where we stand on the beauty scale. I think Cristy is also very pretty, but Andrea didn’t mention her. I’ve never met Johnny, so I don’t know about him.

I didn’t know Maria was born in 1989, meaning she’d turn 36 on her birthday, Wednesday, February 12. The girls spilled the beans about her birth year. I’d always thought she was closer to Adam in age; he will be 33 in December.

Mia, Cristy and Andrea at the Totoco yoga pavilion
Mia, Cristy and Andrea at the Totoco yoga pavilion
view from Totoco
view from Totoco
view from Totoco
view from Totoco
view from Totoco
view from Totoco
the girls doing yoga poses
the girls doing yoga poses
view from Totoco
view from Totoco
the girls in the yoga pavilion
the girls in the yoga pavilion
more yoga poses
more yoga poses

We took the girls home and I realized I’d left my glasses behind. Adam needed to make a chicken delivery to Totoco, so Mike and Andrea drove back up to deliver the chicken for Adam and Mike picked up my glasses.

It always takes a while to get everyone going, but finally we were on our way to Ojo de Agua, arriving there around 10:00. We had a fun and relaxing morning and afternoon. This was little Mikey’s first time in a swimming pool and he seemed to love it, even dipping his head into the water on his own volition. We shared a giant fish and meat platter, and Mike, Adam, Andrea and even Cristy jumped off the Tarzan swing.

I walked around the edge of the pool to take photos and videos of them jumping. Some of the rocks were slippery and I lost my footing about halfway along the length of the pool. My phone flew out of my hand and landed at the bottom of the pool. Adam swam over to retrieve it, and I was surprised to find it was still working. I was able to continue taking photos the rest of the day. Adam insisted phones are made to be waterproof these days.

Mia liked hanging on the more sedate swings and I just swam around and got stung by a wasp 🐝! A South African guy started chatting with me and introduced his girlfriend who was Welsh/Italian. He wanted to know why it wasn’t as hot there as he expected and what we were doing there. I’ve met many South Africans and I like most I’ve met, but I wanted to say, “Why did you send that Nazi Elon Musk to the U.S.?” Of course I didn’t say that and I had no idea about this guy’s political inclinations. I did say we planned to spend as much time away from the U.S. over the next four years and he said, “You should! Sounds fantastic!”

Of course, Mike, Adam and I had to have coco locos after lunch.

Mike napping in the hammock at home
Mike napping in the hammock at home
Maria, Mike and Adam at Ojo de Agua
Maria, Mike and Adam at Ojo de Agua
Maria & Mike at Ojo de Agua
Maria & Mike at Ojo de Agua
Mia and Andrea at Ojo de Agua
Mia and Andrea at Ojo de Agua
Cristy at Ojo de Agua
Cristy at Ojo de Agua
Maria, Mike and Adam at Ojo de Agua
Maria, Mike and Adam at Ojo de Agua
Mia on the swings at Ojo de Agua
Mia on the swings at Ojo de Agua
Mike at the Tarzan swing at Ojo de Agua
Mike at the Tarzan swing at Ojo de Agua
Ojo de Agua
Ojo de Agua
Ojo de Agua
Ojo de Agua
Ojo de Agua
Ojo de Agua
Cristy at Ojo de Agua
Cristy at Ojo de Agua
Ojo de Agua
Ojo de Agua
Maria & Mike at Ojo de Agua
Maria & Mike at Ojo de Agua
lunch platter at Ojo de Agua
lunch platter at Ojo de Agua
the family at Ojo de Agua
the family at Ojo de Agua
Mike with Adam & Maria at Ojo de Agua
Mike with Adam & Maria at Ojo de Agua
Mike with Adam & Maria at Ojo de Agua
Mike with Adam & Maria at Ojo de Agua
Cristy and Mia with ice creams at Ojo de Agua
Cristy and Mia with ice creams at Ojo de Agua
Adam, Maria & Mike at Ojo de Agua
Adam, Maria & Mike at Ojo de Agua
Mike & I with coco locos at Ojo de Agua
Mike & I with coco locos at Ojo de Agua
Mike & I with coco locos at Ojo de Agua
Mike & I with coco locos at Ojo de Agua
Mike & I with coco locos at Ojo de Agua
Mike & I with coco locos at Ojo de Agua
Adam with Mike at Ojo de Agua
Adam with Mike at Ojo de Agua

We dropped off the family at 1:30 and headed up to Totoco where I showered and relaxed a bit. When I tried to charge my phone, a message popped up that said moisture was detected in the charging port and it couldn’t be charged until it dried, which could take several hours. I only had 5% charge left, so I turned it off and put the port facing the fan in the room. I guess there IS a drawback to letting your phone fall into a pool.

I finally got my green chicken curry at Cafe Campestre on Monday night. It was delicious as always.

me with chicken curry at Cafe Campestre
me with chicken curry at Cafe Campestre
Mike's meal at Cafe Campestre
Mike’s meal at Cafe Campestre
Mike at Cafe Campestre
Mike at Cafe Campestre

Steps: 6,187; Miles 2.62. Weather Hi 83°, Lo 75°. Sunny.

Tuesday, February 11: On Tuesday morning, Mike and I went for a walk along the road from Playa Santa Cruz, past Xalli, an Ometepe Beach Hotel, and then toward Playa Santa Domingo. We couldn’t walk on the beach of Lago de Nicaragua this year as we did last year because the lake’s water was so high that there was no beach. It wasn’t an exciting walk, although we did look around the grounds of Xalli in case we ever wanted to stay there.

Lago de Nicaragua,also known as Cocibolca or Granada (and many other names) is  the largest freshwater lake in Central America, the 19th largest in the world (by area) and the tenth largest in the Americas, slightly smaller than Lake Titicaca.  The intermittent Tipitapa River feeds Lake Nicaragua when Lake Managua has high water.

The lake, despite being a freshwater lake, has sawfish, tarpon and sharks. The sharks are synonymous with the widespread bull shark, a species also known for entering freshwater elsewhere around the world.

Lago de Nicaragua
Lago de Nicaragua
Playa Santa Cruz
Playa Santa Cruz
Kite School in Santa Cruz
Kite School in Santa Cruz
Kite school in Santa Cruz
Kite school in Santa Cruz
Xalli in Playa Santa Cruz
Xalli in Playa Santa Cruz
Xalli in Playa Santa Cruz
Xalli in Playa Santa Cruz
Xalli in Playa Santa Cruz
Xalli in Playa Santa Cruz
Xalli in Playa Santa Cruz
Xalli in Playa Santa Cruz
Xalli in Playa Santa Cruz
Xalli in Playa Santa Cruz
Playa Santa Cruz
Playa Santa Cruz
Playa Santa Cruz
Playa Santa Cruz
Playa Santa Cruz
Playa Santa Cruz
Playa Santa Cruz
Playa Santa Cruz
Playa Santa Cruz
Playa Santa Cruz

There seems to come a point in every visit to the family when the family gets super stressed out by our presence despite the fact that we try to give them space. When that happens we find our own activities and try to keep our distance. It seemed Tuesday and Wednesday were those days.

We had lunch at an Israeli restaurant, Bûstavö, and then stopped at El Pital, the Chocolate Paradise, where we thought we could take a chocolate tour. However the tour wasn’t offered on Tuesday so we sat at the very pleasant deck that juts out over the lake and had iced cold spiced cacao: Chocolate Vanilla with coconut milk and vanilla. It was pleasant with a nice breeze coming from the lake and soothing music, including “Agitations tropicales” by L’Impératrice, “The Conservation of Energy” by Vanishing Twin, and “Television (featuring Ilhan Ersahin)” by Oceanvs Orientalist & idil Mese.

We went up to Totoco for a special healing session with biofield tuning forks led by Crissie. It was super relaxing! I fell asleep and started snoring, so Mike had to nudge me awake. It was a lovely way to spend the afternoon despite the high winds and rain coming sideways into the pavilion. We also met a nice couple from South Carolina, Rochelle and T.J., who have built a house on Ometepe they call Casa Mariposa. We also met another young woman from Netherlands, Irene.

Our Toyota Rush rented for our week in Ometepe
Our Toyota Rush rented for our week in Ometepe
Bûstavö
Bûstavö
Bûstavö
Bûstavö
Bûstavö
Bûstavö
lunch at Bûstavö
lunch at Bûstavö
Mike having a falafel sandwich at Bûstavö
Mike having a falafel sandwich at Bûstavö
view from Totoco
view from Totoco
view from Totoco
view from Totoco
Al Pital
Al Pital
Mike at Al Pital
Mike at Al Pital
me with chocolate drinks at Al Pital
me with chocolate drinks at Al Pital
Mike at Al Pital
Mike at Al Pital
Mike, me, Rochelle & TJ at the Totoco yoga pavilion
Mike, me, Rochelle & TJ at the Totoco yoga pavilion
Mike and Crissie, our healing session instructor
Mike and Crissie, our healing session instructor
view from the Totoco yoga pavilion
view from the Totoco yoga pavilion
view from the Totoco yoga pavilion
view from the Totoco yoga pavilion

We took some afternoon shots of our lodge at Totoco with the sunlight streaming through the blinds.

our lodge at Totoco with afternoon sunlight
our lodge at Totoco with afternoon sunlight
our lodge at Totoco
our lodge at Totoco
our lodge at Totoco
our lodge at Totoco
me on the porch of our lodge at Totoco
me on the porch of our lodge at Totoco
our lodge at Totoco
our lodge at Totoco

We enjoyed a magnificent sunset view from Totoco on Tuesday night and dinner of fish fingers on salad.

the lodge at Totoco
the lodge at Totoco
view of Volcán Concepcion from Totoco nearing sunset
view of Volcán Concepcion from Totoco nearing sunset
me outside the Totoco lodge
me outside the Totoco lodge
Mike outside the Totoco lodge
Mike outside the Totoco lodge
Totoco lodge
Totoco lodge
view of Volcán Concepcion from Totoco at sunset
view of Volcán Concepcion from Totoco at sunset
view of Volcán Concepcion from Totoco at sunset
view of Volcán Concepcion from Totoco at sunset
view of Volcán Concepcion from Totoco at sunset
view of Volcán Concepcion from Totoco at sunset
view of Volcán Concepcion from Totoco at sunset
view of Volcán Concepcion from Totoco at sunset
view of Volcán Concepcion from Totoco at sunset
view of Volcán Concepcion from Totoco at sunset
Toña beer at Totoco lodge
Toña beer at Totoco lodge
view of Volcán Concepcion from Totoco at sunset
view of Volcán Concepcion from Totoco at sunset
sunset from Totoco Lodge
sunset from Totoco Lodge
sunset from Totoco Lodge
sunset from Totoco Lodge
sunset from Totoco Lodge
sunset from Totoco Lodge
fish fingers for dinner at Totoco
fish fingers for dinner at Totoco

Steps: 1,056; Miles 0.45. (This is incorrect because my Fitbit wasn’t working). Weather Hi 83°, Lo 75°. Windy.

Wednesday, February 12 (Maria’s birthday): Wednesday was a super boring day in Ometepe. We drove to Moyogalpa, a one-hour drive, to try to find some furniture for the family but we came up empty-handed. We bought a couple of dresses for Maria because it was her birthday, and we got some toys for little Mikey.

morning view of our bedroom in Totoco
morning view of our bedroom in Totoco
Volcán Concepcion as seen on our drive to Moyogalpa
Volcán Concepcion as seen on our drive to Moyogalpa
me in Moyogalpa
me in Moyogalpa
Moyogalpa
Moyogalpa

We drove back to Balgüe and had lunch of bruschetta and falafel at Bûstavö and then went up to Totoco to relax. We couldn’t see the family for the second day in a row so we weren’t able to celebrate Maria’s birthday with her or the family.

Apparently, Adam had hung out with his friend Jon on Tuesday night and had gone off with him to get ice cream for the family. Maria got mad at him for not spending time with her on and around her birthday and not giving her any special treatment. She was freezing him out by not speaking to him. Thus we couldn’t go out with them on Wednesday night for her birthday.

Mike at Bûstavö
Mike at Bûstavö
bruschetta at Bûstavö
bruschetta at Bûstavö
me at Bûstavö
me at Bûstavö

Later we went to dinner at Cafe Campestre where, once again, I enjoyed the green chicken curry and Mike and I shared a warm brownie with ice cream. We always love the music and vibes at this place, with songs such as “Les chibanis” by Zebda, “Le dimanche autor de l’église” by Zebda, and “The Fix (feat. Richard Hawley)” by Elbow.

This was the second year in a row where we’ve felt 7 days was too long to stay here. The weather wasn’t even warm enough to hang out at the pool.

me with green chicken curry at Cafe Campestre
me with green chicken curry at Cafe Campestre
Mike with our shared brownie at Cafe Campestre
Mike with our shared brownie at Cafe Campestre
view from the Totoco yoga pavilion
view from the Totoco yoga pavilion

Steps: 6,132; Miles 2.6. Weather Hi 84°, Lo 75°. Sunny.

Thursday, February 13: Our last day in Ometepe, on Thursday, we went to Adam’s casa and Mike helped him disassemble and reassemble a playpen/crib, which their midwife had given them, to fit their needs. The crib had a ton of dust on it, so I helped by dusting off all the slats. Now little Mike has a safe place to play where he won’t hurt himself. I think it will make the family’s life a lot easier to have a place to put him while they are busy.

breakfast at Totoco
breakfast at Totoco
morning view from Totoco
morning view from Totoco
nature at Totoco
nature at Totoco
Totoco lodge
Totoco lodge
Abuelito & Mikey
Abuelito & Mikey
little Mike
little Mike
this is the surface on the porch that little Mike has to crawl on
this is the surface on the porch that little Mike has to crawl on
Mike & Adam
Mike & Adam
Adam and Mike
Adam and Mike
Mia goes to school
Mia goes to school
Adam's Nica house with the crib on the porch
Adam’s Nica house with the crib on the porch
Mikey in his new crib/playpen
Mikey in his new crib/playpen
Cristy, Mia and Mikey
Cristy, Mia and Mikey

We went with Adam to see Finca Campestre, where he has been clearing the land and planting grass for the cow that he and Ben own together. We met the cow and then had lunch with Adam at Isla Bonita. One of Adam’s friends stopped by and gifted me a flower to put in my hair. She looked like she was in a happy place! 🙂

the cow at Finca Campestre
the cow at Finca Campestre
me at Isla Bonita
me at Isla Bonita
Mike at Isla Bonita
Mike at Isla Bonita
me with a flower gifted me by one of Adam's friends
me with a flower gifted me by one of Adam’s friends

We picked up the girls, Andrea and Mia, and took them up to the Totoco pool, where they wore themselves out splashing around with Abuelito.

We chatted quite a while with a Canadian couple who seemed very worried about the US threats of high tariffs and making Canada the 51st state. We found ourselves embarrassed and ashamed to admit we were Americans and said we supported them fully in their Canadian sovereignty. All of us felt strongly that we needed to boycott America and we told them we were hoping to relocate elsewhere for 75% of the next four years.

Andrea & Mia at Totoco
Andrea & Mia at Totoco
Andrea & Mia at Totoco
Andrea & Mia at Totoco
Andrea & Mia at Totoco
Andrea & Mia at Totoco

We had plans with the family to go to Pizzeria Mediterranea for our last night, but just as we arrived, little Mike threw up all over himself and Adam. Maria was worried about him so Mike drove her and Mikey back to the casa. We enjoyed our pizzas with Adam and the girls but it was disappointing not to have Maria be part of our last dinner, especially since we weren’t able to celebrate her birthday on Wednesday. The dress she’s wearing in the picture is one of two we bought her in Moyogalpa.

The restaurants that we frequent on Ometepe are usually outdoors and rather rough, with dirt floors and compost toilets, but somehow they always manage to have great music. Tonight we were serenaded with “Je So’ Pazzo” by Pino Daniele, “La Fama” by Aloy, “Milonga” by Ibu Selva, “Almarita” by La Rue Kétanou, and “Gipsy Valley” by N.O.H.A.

Maria, Mike and Adam
Maria, Mike and Adam
Maria in her new dress with Mikey
Maria in her new dress with Mikey
Cristy with Mike
Cristy with Mike
Mike & Adam at Pizzeria Mediterranea
Mike & Adam at Pizzeria Mediterranea
Cristy, Mia and Andrea at Pizzeria Mediterranea
Cristy, Mia and Andrea at Pizzeria Mediterranea

Below is a short video of our last days in Ometepe.

Ometepe Feb 2025 part 2

Ometepe Feb 2025 part 2

Steps: 4,134; Miles 1.75. Weather Hi 84°, Lo 75°. Sunny.

Friday, February 14 (Valentine’s Day): This morning, I got a text message from Maria: “I’m sorry for not being here with you. I want to be better next time. Thank you so much for all your love for the girls and me. I loved your gifts.” I was happy to get this message and let her know it was okay; I know they are under a lot of pressure as a family to make ends meet. I know also that Adam can be a challenge in general.

Friday was a long travel day. We dropped by Adam’s to say goodbye to the family. Andrea was in time-out for something she did and was rather grumpy, at first sitting in her chair facing away from us and refusing to say goodbye, despite Adam telling her she could come out of time-out. Finally she came and gave us hugs. Little Mikey woke up just in time to burst into tears when he saw our faces, but we hugged and kissed him anyway.

Then we picked up Alberto, who had rented the car to us, in Santa Cruz; he drove us to Moyogalpa so we wouldn’t chance getting stopped by police (which has happened to us on both of our previous visits). We made it to Moyogalpa without any police interactions, thank goodness.

We took the 12:30 1-hour ferry to San Jorge where Alberto’s cousin Dani picked us up and drove us 2 hours to Managua. There we stayed overnight again at Best Western Las Mercedes directly across from the airport.

final breakfast at Totoco
final breakfast at Totoco
view of Volcan Concepcion on Ometepe from the ferry back to San Jorge
view of Volcan Concepcion on Ometepe from the ferry back to San Jorge

We sat by the pool for dinner as the entire dining room had been reserved for Valentine’s Day. I had shrimp with garlic and butter, mashed potatoes and veggies. We went to bed early so we could get up at 3 a.m. for our 6 a.m. flight to San Salvador (again) and then on to Mexico City.

me by the pool at the Best Western in Managua
me by the pool at the Best Western in Managua
shrimp with garlic and butter, mashed potatoes and veggies
shrimp with garlic and butter, mashed potatoes and veggies
Mike at the Best Western
Mike at the Best Western

Steps: 5,607; Miles 2.38. Weather Ometepe Hi 83°, Lo 74°. Weather Managua: Hi 90°, Lo 74°.

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  • Central America
  • International Travel
  • Managua

ometepe, nicaragua: family time, the saturday market, poker, yoga, & a slumber party {1/2}

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 March 19, 2025
Virginia > San Salvador > Managua

Thursday, February 6, 2025:  Thursday morning was hectic as there was an ice storm overnight which caused the power to go out for most of the morning before we left home. We left home at 12:30 pm, with the power still out in the house; we were worried that when the power came back on after we left, some electric device might come on that we didn’t want to leave on. We unplugged as many things as we could and then took an Uber to Dulles, where we caught a 3:50 pm Avianca flight to San Salvador, El Salvador.

Avianca must have the smallest leg and seat space of any airline we’ve flown, but at least it seems efficient, always loading everyone quickly and taking off exactly on time (I’d change that statement by the end of our trip!). The seats are crowded, uncomfortable, and don’t recline, and nothing is free, not even a bag of nuts, but I do appreciate the business-like efficiency they bring to their flights.

On my flights, I finished the book I had been reading, The Lover, by Marguerite Duras.

We arrived early in San Salvador at around 6:50. While waiting for our 9:20 flight to Managua, Nicaragua, we enjoyed some vodka tonics at Cafe Tapacun, a cute airport cafe where we stop every time we go through the San Salvador airport. We also perused the small art gallery at the airport which has a rotating collection of El Salvadoran art.

Mike on Avianca heading to San Salvador
Mike on Avianca heading to San Salvador
me on Avianca heading to San Salvador
me on Avianca heading to San Salvador
Leaving Virginia
Leaving Virginia
approaching San Salvador
approaching San Salvador
Art gallery at El Salvador International Airport
Art gallery at El Salvador International Airport
Art gallery at El Salvador International Airport
Art gallery at El Salvador International Airport
Art gallery at El Salvador International Airport
Art gallery at El Salvador International Airport
Art gallery at El Salvador International Airport
Art gallery at El Salvador International Airport
Art gallery at El Salvador International Airport
Art gallery at El Salvador International Airport
Art gallery at El Salvador International Airport
Art gallery at El Salvador International Airport
Art gallery at El Salvador International Airport
Art gallery at El Salvador International Airport
Cafe Tapacun
Cafe Tapacun
vodka tonic at Cafe Tapacun
vodka tonic at Cafe Tapacun

We finally arrived at 10:30 p.m. in Managua, Nicaragua and checked in at Best Western Las Mercedes Airport hotel, directly across a busy road from the airport. At least we didn’t have to wake up at the crack of dawn the next morning.

Best Western Las Mercedes Airport hotel
Best Western Las Mercedes Airport hotel
Best Western Las Mercedes Airport hotel
Best Western Las Mercedes Airport hotel

Steps: 8,441; Miles 3.57. Weather in Oakton: Hi 45°, Lo 33°. Managua: Hi 91°, Lo 75°. Partly cloudy.

Managua > arrival in Ometepe & meeting our newest grandson

Friday, February 7: Last year and this year, we had Adam’s friend Alberto arrange a ride for us with his cousin Dani from Managua to Rivas, about a 2-hour drive. Adam was in Rivas picking up his corrected passport; the U.S. Embassy had accidentally misspelled his middle name as “Cristoper” without the “h,” which has caused him all kinds of hassles, including his misspelled name being on both his marriage certificate and Mike’s birth certificate. Because of poor cell phone reception and miscommunication, we missed meeting him in Rivas; we got on the 11:00 ferry to Ometepe.

The ferry was crowded mostly with a school group from Quebec. One of the boys sat on the floor of one of the bathrooms during the entire crossing, retching into the toilet.

We arrived in Moyogalpa on Ometepe at noon and rented a Toyota Rush from Alberto for the week, handing over hundreds of U.S. dollars in the parking lot with no contract of any kind. We ate lunch at the Cornerhouse while waiting for Adam to arrive on the 12:00-1:00 ferry. I had a roasted vegetable and cheese sandwich and Mike got two chicken salad sandwiches, one for Adam. After Adam arrived and we finished lunch, the three of us shopped in Moyogalpa for a fan for the girls’ room and some birthday and Valentine’s Day gifts 🎁 for Maria. We then began our drive to Balgüe, about an hour away.

Mike on the ferry to Ometepe
Mike on the ferry to Ometepe
leaving Rivas on the ferry
leaving Rivas on the ferry
approaching Ometepe with Volcán Concepcion on the right (In the distance you can see Volcán Maderas)
approaching Ometepe with Volcán Concepcion on the right (In the distance you can see Volcán Maderas)
me at the Cornerhouse
me at the Cornerhouse
Cornerhouse
Cornerhouse
oasted vegetable and cheese sandwich at the Cornerhouse
oasted vegetable and cheese sandwich at the Cornerhouse
Mike at the Cornerhouse
Mike at the Cornerhouse
me at the Cornerhouse
me at the Cornerhouse

We took Adam to his casa in Balgüe and we finally met our newest grandson, Michael Christopher, who would turn 9 months old on February 15. He’s an adorable little boy with a sweet and curious disposition, although he didn’t initially react well to his newly arrived grandparents. When we tried to hold him or kiss him, his face scrunched up and he started screaming and buried his face into Maria’s shoulder.

We checked out the house projects Adam had started in the last year, including a bamboo partition around the shower (providing privacy), a new sink and countertop in the  kitchen, and an unfinished bodega, where Adam’s friend Jon had pitched a tent. Jon wasn’t there at the time because he was in San Juan del Sur investigating the suspicious death of a friend’s father who married a Nicaraguan woman. The father seemed to have changed his will but never signed it.

We met Adam’s little cow named Rocky who is now tethered in his yard. Adam is hoping to increase his property holding to give the cow free reign, but so far that hasn’t happened.

We played a little game at the house where I said Spanish words for parts of the body that I’d recently learned (rodilla [knee], cuella [neck], cuerpo [body], garganta [throat]) and the girls had to tell me the English words. I asked Cristy what she’d like to do with her life. I suggested maybe university in Managua? She doesn’t have any specific ideas, but I know she is smart. I hope we can somehow help her to get a real education off the island. It seems any possibilities in the U.S. will be off the table as long as Trump is in office.  Adam has an idea to get her involved with the orders online for their business to give her some business skills.

Adam seems happy. He likes doing the food supply business he can do on a small scale, which wouldn’t be possible in the U.S. He said he couldn’t do anything with cows, for instance, on a small scale in the U.S.

We brought Andrea and Mia to Totoco with us, where we checked in to our lodge, called ECHECATL, and then let them swim in the infinity pool. Abuelito swam with them while I sat in a chair and watched them while enjoying a glass of white wine.

Little Mikey & Adam
Little Mikey & Adam
view of Volcán Concepcion from Totoco
view of Volcán Concepcion from Totoco
Totoco Eco Lodge
Totoco Eco Lodge
Totoco Eco Lodge
Totoco Eco Lodge
view of Volcán Concepcion from Totoco
view of Volcán Concepcion from Totoco
Mia and Andrea at Totoco
Mia and Andrea at Totoco
Andrea at Totoco's pool
Andrea at Totoco’s pool
Andrea at Totoco
Andrea at Totoco
Andrea & Mia at Totoco's pool
Andrea & Mia at Totoco’s pool
Dido with Andrea & Mia at Totoco
Dido with Andrea & Mia at Totoco
view of Volcán Concepcion from Totoco
view of Volcán Concepcion from Totoco
view of Volcán Concepcion from Totoco
view of Volcán Concepcion from Totoco
view of Volcán Concepcion from Totoco
view of Volcán Concepcion from Totoco

The family joined us at Totoco for dinner. As always, it took forever to get our dinner, and the girls get antsy waiting. Little Mike, who sported an adorable hat that said “Little Man,” sat in his first high chair and later enjoyed scooting over the cool tile floor chasing after his toys. The girls gobbled down their chicken fingers and grilled chicken, accompanied by jugos & Canada Dry Ginger Ales, their new favorite drink. Mike and I shared samosas and vegetable curry, while Adam and Maria shared a hummus platter and a plate of chicken pesto pasta. The food was decent but bland.

Andrea and Cristy both told us their favorite subjects were English. Mia serves as her class’s English translator, although she hardly says a word to us in English. I have a hard time understanding Maria because she speaks so fast and my Spanish, after nearly 1000 days of Duolingo, is still pathetic.

Maria and "Litte Man" at Totoco
Maria and “Litte Man” at Totoco
Totoco dining area at night
Totoco dining area at night
Cristy, Mike and Mia
Cristy, Mike and Mia
bland chicken dinner at Totoco
bland chicken dinner at Totoco
another meal at Totoco
another meal at Totoco
me with Adam at Totoco
me with Adam at Totoco

Steps: 8,127; Miles 3.44. Weather in Managua: Hi 92°, Lo 75°. Partly cloudy.

A morning walk, howler monkeys, the Saturday market, a poker game & dinner with the family

Saturday, February 8: Saturday morning, Mike and I walked down from Totoco to Adam’s house and back, about a 3-mile very steep round trip. We found a troupe of howler monkeys jumping from branch to branch in the trees above our cabana.

path to our cabana at Totoco
path to our cabana at Totoco
howler monkeys in the trees
howler monkeys in the trees
howler monkeys in the trees
howler monkeys in the trees
howler monkeys in the trees
howler monkeys in the trees
a monkey in the hammock
a monkey in the hammock

We then drove back down and took our belated Christmas gifts to Maria, the girls and little Mike.

Mia unwraps her gifts
Mia unwraps her gifts
Andrea upwraps a Christmas present
Andrea upwraps a Christmas present

Mike and I took the girls down to the Saturday market where we had vegan burritos on banana leaves, I bought a piece of jewelry for each of the girls and we enjoyed ice cream cones at a heladería. Adam showed us some of their food production, including a large piece of beef he would grind and sell as hamburgers on the island.

Andrea, Mia and Cristy at the Farmer's Market 2025
Andrea, Mia and Cristy at the Farmer’s Market 2025
the lady who makes the banana leaf lunches
the lady who makes the banana leaf lunches
vegan burritos on banana leaves
vegan burritos on banana leaves
Andrea, Mia and Cristy at the Saturday market
Andrea, Mia and Cristy at the Saturday market
me with the girls at the Saturday market
me with the girls at the Saturday market
Saturday market
Saturday market
the heladeria
the heladeria
Helado time for the girls: Andrea, Mia and Cristy
Helado time for the girls: Andrea, Mia and Cristy
Andrea, Mia, me, Cristy and Mike at the heladería
Andrea, Mia, me, Cristy and Mike at the heladería
Adam with the meat he'll grind into hamburgers and sell
Adam with the meat he’ll grind into hamburgers and sell

We dropped the girls at home then Mike and I joined the Saturday afternoon Texas Hold’em poker game with the expats at Cafe Campestre from 2-5. There was a big crowd including Ben (owner of Campestre), another Ben from UK, Ash, Jon (Adam’s friend), and Luke (U.S. Navy retired guy). Lucie (Ash’s partner) was the dealer.

Mike ended up ahead in the end, but Adam and I lost everything, going all-in on the last hands as the game was closing. I had started out strong with three 3-of-a-kinds and raked in the chips. Slowly I frittered them all away. We had some hilarious moments where an Austrian guy named Robin, who joined the game midway, said he left Austria to return to Ometepe because of the weather (foggy and cold) and he didn’t like the “v(w)ib(v)es” (“vibes”) there at this time. I said, “You don’t like the the wives? Just how many wives do you have?” That got big laughs from the table. Love how those German v’s, b’s and w’s sound alike! Robin hadn’t had time to go to a cash machine and kept asking everyone at the table to front him some money, but no one stepped up to do so. When the song “Stayin’ Alive” started playing, Adam bobbed his head to the beat and said, it’s the “Bee Gee boys!” I said, “It’s either the Bee Gees or the Beach Boys, not the Bee Gee Boys!” That also got laughs throughout the game. Ben told us a very funny story about some people he knows.

I couldn’t keep up with the complicated betting after a couple of Tonias and people had to keep reminding me how to stay in the game. Ash said he was serving as my advisor. When Robin joined and sat between us, Ash said, “How will you survive without your advisor?”

Adam and me playing poker at Cafe Campestre
Adam and me playing poker at Cafe Campestre
my poker chips when I was ahead
my poker chips when I was ahead
the poker crowd at Cafe Campestre
the poker crowd at Cafe Campestre

After the Saturday poker game, Maria and the kids joined us for dinner at Cafe Campestre. I was disappointed they were out of my favorite Green chicken curry. I ordered Aloo Paratha (Indian flat bread filled with a mild potato curry and served with yogurt raita & chutney), but I didn’t care much for it and ended up giving away much of my meal and eating bites of Adam’s delicious and enormous chicken burger. Everyone else enjoyed their meals, especially Andrea who has an outsized appetite and gobbled down a humongous plate of chicken fingers.

We were serenaded at Cafe Campestre by their fabulous playlist, including some favorites such as “Somebody That I Used to Know” by Gotye and Kimbra and “Scar Tissue” by Red Hot Chili Peppers.

Maria and Mike at Cafe Campestre
Maria and Mike at Cafe Campestre
Mia, Andrea and Cristy at Cafe Campestre
Mia, Andrea and Cristy at Cafe Campestre
me with Adam, Maria and Mike
me with Adam, Maria and Mike
Adam, Maria and Mike at Cafe Campestre
Adam, Maria and Mike at Cafe Campestre
Cristy, Mia, Mike and Andrea
Cristy, Mia, Mike and Andrea
dinner at Cafe Campestre
dinner at Cafe Campestre
the family at Cafe Campestre
the family at Cafe Campestre

I was feeling exhausted and grumpy from all the beers on top of all the activity and I couldn’t wait to get back to Totoco and go to bed. I wanted to curl up and read Berlin Poplars about a very dysfunctional Norwegian family featuring three brothers: a pig farmer, an undertaker and a window dresser.

Steps: 9,782; Miles 4.15. Weather in Ometepe: Hi 84°, Lo 75°. Partly cloudy.

Yoga, a rainy Sunday, and a sleepover

Sunday, February 9: Sunday we ate an early breakfast so we could do yoga in the new pavilion at Totoco. I ate yogurt with homemade granola and Mike had oatmeal with fruit. At least we started our trip on a healthy footing.

Only Mike and I showed up for the 8:00 session with Robin from Montreal. I hadn’t brought any yoga clothes because Totoco didn’t have a place for yoga last year so I didn’t expect it. It was a chill session that was supposed to be 1 1/2 hours but I have little patience for yoga sessions over an hour so we compromised on 1 1/4 hours. Strong gusts threatened to carry our yoga mats away but we used cedar blocks to keep them in place, to little effect. Howler monkeys were grunting loudly in the surrounding trees. I had a hard time relaxing because I thought they might come into the open-air pavilion and abscond with my pack! Robin gave us head massages with lavender oil to top off the session.

me having breakfast at Totoco
me having breakfast at Totoco
Mike at breakfast
Mike at breakfast
Totoco Eco Lodge
Totoco Eco Lodge
the new yoga pavilion at Totoco
the new yoga pavilion at Totoco
view from the yoga pavilion
view from the yoga pavilion
the new yoga pavilion at Totoco
the new yoga pavilion at Totoco
Robin, our yoga instructor from Montreal
Robin, our yoga instructor from Montreal
Mike after yoga
Mike after yoga
Mike with me after yoga
Mike with me after yoga
Echecatl - our lodge (they spelled it wrong on the sign)
Echecatl – our lodge (they spelled it wrong on the sign)
Echecatl - our lodge
Echecatl – our lodge
Echecatl - our lodge
Echecatl – our lodge

After yoga we showered (cold showers always at this Eco Lodge) and then sat in the lodge for wi-fi and coffee. We chatted with Kathleen from Wisconsin and Jamie (from Wisconsin and Arizona). They have been friends forever, since their teaching days together. Kathleen has a Master’s degree in Spanish and taught Spanish during her career. She wanted to know all about the Camino de Santiago which is high on her bucket list. Their bathroom at Totoco was outside their room and at one point she got locked in the bathroom. Then they were both locked out of the bathroom for two days, so they had to pee in the grass several times in the middle of the night. They were headed to Granada that afternoon.

After whiling away the morning at Totoco, we went to find lunch at Bustavo but found it closed on Saturday & Sunday. Instead we ended up at Pan de Mama, a bakery which we discovered had suffered a kitchen fire a week ago. In typical Nica style, they had set up a temporary kitchen outdoors behind the restaurant and still managed to prepare grilled cheese and chicken salad sandwiches, and even cafe lattes!

Pan de Mama
Pan de Mama
Mike at Pan de Mama
Mike at Pan de Mama
me at Pan de Mama
me at Pan de Mama

After lunch, we dropped by Adam’s casa for a visit. I rocked little Mike in the hammock to prolong his nap and give Maria a break.

Unusually, it was pouring off and on all day Sunday despite it being the dry season. We relaxed a bit in our room and at the open-air thatched lounge at Totoco and then went to dinner at Pizzeria Mediterranea. Mike and I sat at one table along the edge of the covered dining area and ordered our favorite chorizo and broccoli pizza. We talked across the tables with a Canadian woman, Monica, who was upset about the effect our freaking U.S. president is having on an already divided Canada. At another table were two German ladies who were also upset about the direction of Germany. They had just walked a Camino from the Caribbean coast to the Pacific Coast of Costa Rica. When another downpour started coming in at the edge of the roof, we all moved to one big table in the center. It was amazing to find people from two different countries who were upset about the authoritarian turns countries are taking, many influenced by our evil 47th president. He’ll go down in history as one of the world’s most despicable men along with Hitler, Stalin, Mussolini, Kim Jong Un, and Putin.

When we had time to listen to the restaurant’s playlist between our chatter and the pouring rain, we found soothing songs such as “La Rue Kétanou” and “Sour Times” by Portishead.

getting ready to go to Pizzeria Mediterranea
getting ready to go to Pizzeria Mediterranea
getting ready to go to Pizzeria Mediterranea
getting ready to go to Pizzeria Mediterranea
Pizzeria Mediterranea
Pizzeria Mediterranea
chorizo and broccoli pizza
chorizo and broccoli pizza
Mike at Pizzeria Mediterranea
Mike at Pizzeria Mediterranea
me at Pizzeria Mediterranea
me at Pizzeria Mediterranea

After dinner at Pizza Mediterranea, we went by Adam’s house to pick up the girls for a sleepover with us at Totoco. It gets dark early in Nicaragua every night of the year, around 5:50, so we played about 5 rounds of Kings-around-the-corner in the Totoco lodge. I enjoyed a glass of wine, Mike a Tonia and all three girls drank their favorite Canada Dry Ginger Ales. Andrea, the middle girl, has a very strong personality and hates to lose. Mia was a very sharp player; Andrea was also good but sloppy: she kept putting two reds or two blacks together. She ended up winning the first and last games, while Mike/Mia won one round, with Cristy and me winning one game each.

Our lodge had one room with a queen bed and another room with a big bunk bed covered in mosquito netting.  There isn’t much to do there once it gets dark, so we all got tucked in. The girls loved the huge bunk bed. I read Berlin Poplars on my Kindle. We were all asleep by 8:30. 😴 💤 🛌

me with the girls after our rounds of Kings-around-the-corner
me with the girls after our rounds of Kings-around-the-corner
Cristy, Andrea and Mia at Totoco for a sleepover
Cristy, Andrea and Mia at Totoco for a sleepover

Here is a little video of some of our first days in Ometepe with the family.

Ometepe Part 1 Feb 2025

Ometepe Part 1 Feb 2025

Steps: 1,302; Miles .55. Weather in Ometepe: Hi 85°, Lo 78°. Partly cloudy. Rain off and on all day & windy.

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  • Central America
  • Cocktail Hour
  • Guanajuato

a belated february cocktail hour: nicaragua & mexico

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 March 12, 2025

February 28, 2025: Welcome to our belated February cocktail hour. We managed to escape 28 out of the first 40 days of our despicable current regime’s term by leaving the country. Of course our escaping didn’t stop things from happening, horrible things, but at least we felt a step removed from it all. We spent 8 days of the month in Nicaragua visiting Adam and his family. The remainder of February we spent in Mexico: Mexico City, Guanajuato, and San Miguel de Allende (our time there spilled over slightly into March).

Let’s have a Michelada today in celebration of our time in Mexico, which we loved. A Michelada is made with tomato juice, beer, lime juice, Worcestershire sauce, soy sauce, and hot sauce. And lots of spices around the rim of the glass. 🙂

I also have a variety of beers, soda or seltzer water if you are extending dry January into February. Or if you are generally dry. 🙂

How did your February go? Did you have a happy Groundhog Day/Valentine’s Day/President’s Day? Have you welcomed any new additions to your family? Have you read any good books that can inform your worldview, seen any good movies, binge-watched any television series? Have you planned any adventures or had any winter getaways? Have you dreamed any dreams? Have you gone to any exotic restaurants, cooked any new dishes? Have you been surprised by anything in life? Have you learned anything new, taken any classes or just kept up with the news? Have you sung along with any new songs? Have you undertaken any new exercise routines? Have you marched or otherwise participated in political protests? Have you been battered, or alternately, uplifted by any news?

We were only in the U.S. for five days before we took off for Nicaragua on the 6th of the month. Before leaving, we were busy preparing for our month-long trip. I had pack and to wrap presents for Adam’s kids, as we planned give them their belated Christmas gifts.

On Saturday, February 1, Mike and I went to dinner at Ariake; this was another of our daughter Sarah’s gift certificates to us for Christmas.

me at Ariake
me at Ariake
Mike at Ariake
Mike at Ariake

Virginia > Managua > Ometepe > Managua

We spread our trip to Ometepe over two days this time, leaving home late in the afternoon on Thursday the 6th, arriving in Managua at 10:30 p.m., and then traveling the next day, Friday, with a driver from Managua to Rivas, a ferry to Ometepe and a rental car to Balgüe. This was easier than our usual method of leaving at 3:00 a.m and arriving at 6 p.m. all on the same day.

The biggest highlight was of course meeting our newest grandson, Michael Christopher Dutchak Hernandez. We call him “Little Mikey” to differentiate him from his grandfather. Mikey turned 9 months old the day after we left, on February 15. He was a joy to meet; he looks just like Adam did when he was a baby. We spent the first afternoon bringing Andrea and Mia to the pool at Totoco to swim. Later the whole family had dinner together there, while we watched little Mike scoot across the cool tile floor chasing after his toys.

Little Mike & Adam at Adam's casa
Little Mike & Adam at Adam’s casa
Andrea & Mia at Totoco's pool
Andrea & Mia at Totoco’s pool
Dido with Andrea & Mia at Totoco
Dido with Andrea & Mia at Totoco
Maria and Little Man at Totoco
Maria and Little Man at Totoco
Cristy, Mike and Mia at Totoco
Cristy, Mike and Mia at Totoco
me with Adam at Totoco
me with Adam at Totoco

On Saturday morning, we gave Christmas presents to the girls and Mikey at their casa. Last time we didn’t bring anything and took them to a used clothing store to buy things. This time I was happy to give them brand new clothes from the U.S. Luckily everything fit except Andrea’s shoes, which she’ll grow into. After our gift-giving, we took the girls to the Saturday market where we bought them each a piece of jewelry and some ice cream.

I was included in the Saturday afternoon Texas Hold’em poker game at Cafe Campestre. It was a blast with lots of joking around. I was happy to be part of it and to get to know some of Adam’s expat friends. After the poker game, Maria and the kids joined us for dinner there.

Andrea upwraps a Christmas present
Andrea upwraps a Christmas present
Andrea, Mia and Cristy at the Farmer's Market 2025
Andrea, Mia and Cristy at the Farmer’s Market 2025
Helado time for the girls: Andrea, Mia and Cristy
Helado time for the girls: Andrea, Mia and Cristy
Adam and me playing poker at Cafe Campestre
Adam and me playing poker at Cafe Campestre
the poker crowd at Cafe Campestre
the poker crowd at Cafe Campestre
me, Adam, Maria & little Mike at Cafe Campestre
me, Adam, Maria & little Mike at Cafe Campestre
Cristy, Mia, Mike and Andrea at Cafe Campestre
Cristy, Mia, Mike and Andrea at Cafe Campestre

Totoco has built a new yoga pavilion overlooking the lake so Mike and I did a yoga class with Robin from Montreal on Sunday. Despite it being the dry season, the lake was still high because of the previous rainy season and some unusual rain during the dry season. It actually was much cooler than it’s ever been in Nicaragua during our visits; we hardly felt the need to swim in the pool at all. One day we had downpours off and on all day.

We had a set of bunkbeds in our room, so we had all three girls over to our room for a sleepover Sunday night. Before bed, we played about 5 rounds of Kings-around-the corner in the Totoco lodge. Of course competitive Andrea won the most games.

Mike & I after our yoga class at the new Totoco pavilion 2025
Mike & I after our yoga class at the new Totoco pavilion 2025
Cristy, Andrea and Mia at Totoco for a sleepover
Cristy, Andrea and Mia at Totoco for a sleepover
Mia, Cristy and Andrea at the Totoco yoga pavilion after the sleepover
Mia, Cristy and Andrea at the Totoco yoga pavilion after the sleepover

We took the family to Ojo de Agua on Monday for a fun day outing. It was Mikey’s first time in a swimming pool, and he loved it. Mike, Adam, Andrea and even Cristy jumped off the Tarzan swing, while Mia hung out on the more sedate swings. I swam around, got stung by a wasp and dropped my phone into the water when I slipped on the wet pavement.

Little Mike fast asleep in the hammock
Little Mike fast asleep in the hammock
Maria, Mike and Adam at Ojo de Agua
Maria, Mike and Adam at Ojo de Agua
Maria and Mike at Ojo de Agua
Maria and Mike at Ojo de Agua
Andrea & Mia at Ojo de Agua
Andrea & Mia at Ojo de Agua
Cristy at Ojo de Agua
Cristy at Ojo de Agua
Mia on the swings at Ojo de Agua
Mia on the swings at Ojo de Agua
Ojo de Agua
Ojo de Agua
the family at Ojo de Agua
the family at Ojo de Agua
Mike in front, Adam and Maria in back, at Ojo de Agua 2025
Mike in front, Adam and Maria in back, at Ojo de Agua 2025
me with Mike drinking Coco locos at Ojo de Agua
me with Mike drinking Coco locos at Ojo de Agua

The family got a little stressed out by us being around and we went Tuesday and Wednesday without seeing them at all. We were supposed to celebrate Maria’s birthday on the 12th, but she got angry at Adam for something and wasn’t speaking to him so we left them alone. Mike and I managed to entertain ourselves, as we always do. We went to a special healing session with biofield tuning forks led by Crissie at the Totoco yoga pavilion. I fell asleep and starting snoring so Mike had to nudge me awake. It was a lovely way to spend the afternoon despite high winds and rain coming sideways into the pavilion.

Mike and I drove to Moyogalpa on Wednesday to try to buy some furniture for the family, but sadly we couldn’t find anything. We did buy Maria a couple of dresses, as well as some toys for Mikey.

me at Totoco
me at Totoco
sunset view from Totoco over Volcán Concepcion 2025
sunset view from Totoco over Volcán Concepcion 2025
sunset view from Totoco over Volcán Concepcion 2025
sunset view from Totoco over Volcán Concepcion 2025
sunset view from Totoco over Volcán Concepcion
sunset view from Totoco over Volcán Concepcion

The most helpful thing we did, or I should say Mike and Adam did, was to disassemble and reassemble a playpen/crib which their midwife had given them, to fit their needs. I did my part dusting off the cobwebs, no small feat because of all the slats. Adam introduced us to the cow he and Ben own together; they keep her on Ben’s property at Finca Campestre. Later, we brought Andrea and Mia to the pool again, where they had fun splashing around with Papacito.

Dido & little Mike
Dido & little Mike
Mike tries crawling over the rough stone porch
Mike tries crawling over the rough stone porch
Mia off to school
Mia off to school
Cristy, Mia and Mike in his new crib/playpen 2025
Cristy, Mia and Mike in his new crib/playpen 2025
Adam and Ben's cow 2025
Adam and Ben’s cow 2025
Andrea & Mia at the Totoco pool
Andrea & Mia at the Totoco pool

Our last night going to dinner at Pizzeria Mediterranea was ruined because as soon as we arrived, little Mike started throwing up all over the place and Maria felt she should take him home. Thus we had our final dinner with Adam and the girls, all of whom were fidgety because they were worried about their mom and little brother.

Maria in one new dress we bought her, Mikey and Adam 2025
Maria in one new dress we bought her, Mikey and Adam 2025
Mike & Adam at Pizzeria Mediterranea
Mike & Adam at Pizzeria Mediterranea
Cristy, Mia & Andrea at Pizzeria Mediterranea
Cristy, Mia & Andrea at Pizzeria Mediterranea

When it was time to leave on Friday the 14th, we drove the car an hour to Moyogalpa, took the ferry for an hour, and had our driver Dani drive two hours to Managua on Valentine’s day. All the seats in the dining room were booked for Valentine’s Day at the Best Western, so we ate dinner outside by the pool.  The next day, Saturday the 15th, we were up at 3:00 to catch an early flight to San Salvador and on to Mexico City.

dinner by the pool in Managua's Best Western
dinner by the pool in Managua’s Best Western
flying into Mexico City
flying into Mexico City

Mexico City

We loved our stay in the Roma Norte neighborhood of Mexico City for six nights. We spent Sunday doing a self-guided walking tour of Roma Norte. What a colorful and charming neighborhood.

Mike at Tr3s Tonalá
Mike at Tr3s Tonalá
Roma Norte
Roma Norte
me in Roma Norte
me in Roma Norte
me in Roma Norte
me in Roma Norte
Mike in Roma Norte
Mike in Roma Norte
Mike in the Modo Museo Del Objeto
Mike in the Modo Museo Del Objeto
Golden Goose in Roma Norte
Golden Goose in Roma Norte
me at Plaza Rio de Janeiro
me at Plaza Rio de Janeiro
Edificio Rio de Janeiro
Edificio Rio de Janeiro
lunch at Cafe Toscano
lunch at Cafe Toscano
me at Cafe Toscano
me at Cafe Toscano
Bob Dylan mural
Bob Dylan mural
mural in Roma Norte
mural in Roma Norte

We spent Monday, when most museums in the city were closed, taking an excursion to Teotihuacán, once the largest city in ancient Mexico known for its impressive pyramids and mosaics, and capital of a pre-Hispanic empire.

balloons over Pyramid of the Moon at Teotihuacán
balloons over Pyramid of the Moon at Teotihuacán
Mike on the backside of Pyramid of the Sun at Teotihuacán
Mike on the backside of Pyramid of the Sun at Teotihuacán
Pyramid of the Moon at Teotihuacán
Pyramid of the Moon at Teotihuacán
Mike in front of Pyramid of the Moon at Teotihuacán
Mike in front of Pyramid of the Moon at Teotihuacán
me at Pyramid of the Moon at Teotihuacán
me at Pyramid of the Moon at Teotihuacán
view down the Avenue of the Dead to Pyramid of the Sun
view down the Avenue of the Dead to Pyramid of the Sun
Palacio de Quetzalpapálotl
Palacio de Quetzalpapálotl
Mike at Counterculture Cafe for lunch
Mike at Counterculture Cafe for lunch
me back at Tr3s Tonalá for dinner
me back at Tr3s Tonalá for dinner

On Tuesday, we spent the day in Centro Histórico, visiting the Catedral Metropolitana and Templo Mayor, a temple complex that was the center of the universe, according to Aztec cosmology. We also visited the Palacio de Correos de México (Postal Palace), the Palacio de Bellas Artes (Palace of Fine Arts), the Casa de los Azulejos (House of Tiles), and finally the Museo Nacional de Arte. We topped off our day with dinner at Páramo, a “hip” restaurant in the Roma Norte neighborhood. We were by far the oldest ones there.

Catedral Metropolitana
Catedral Metropolitana
Catedral Metropolitana
Catedral Metropolitana
Templo Mayor
Templo Mayor
Templo Mayor
Templo Mayor
Templo Mayor
Templo Mayor
Mike at Templo Mayor
Mike at Templo Mayor
me at Templo Mayor
me at Templo Mayor
Palacio de Correos de México
Palacio de Correos de México
Palacio de Correos de México
Palacio de Correos de México
Palacio de Correos de México
Palacio de Correos de México
Palacio de Bellas Artes
Palacio de Bellas Artes
Casa de los Azulejos
Casa de los Azulejos
Casa de los Azulejos
Casa de los Azulejos
Museo Nacional de Arte
Museo Nacional de Arte
Museo Nacional de Arte
Museo Nacional de Arte
Museo Nacional de Arte
Museo Nacional de Arte
Museo Nacional de Arte
Museo Nacional de Arte
Museo Nacional de Arte
Museo Nacional de Arte
Museo Nacional de Arte
Museo Nacional de Arte
Museo Nacional de Arte
Museo Nacional de Arte
Museo Nacional de Arte
Museo Nacional de Arte
Páramo
Páramo
Mike at Páramo
Mike at Páramo
me at Páramo
me at Páramo

On Wednesday, we ventured to Polanco to see the Museo Jumex and Museo Soumaya. We went from there to the expansive Museo Nacional de Antropologia, which took us several hours. In the beautiful Condessa barrio, we walked a circular route around the leafy Avenida Amsterdam which took us around peaceful Parque México, the oval shape of which reflects its earlier use as a hippodromo (horse-racing track). We stopped at Butcher & Sons for happy hour drinks.

Museo Soumaya
Museo Soumaya
Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Museo Jumex
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Santas Conchas Lonchería
Santas Conchas Lonchería
me at Santas Conchas Lonchería
me at Santas Conchas Lonchería
Avenida Amsterdam in Condessa
Avenida Amsterdam in Condessa
Avenida Amsterdam in Condessa
Avenida Amsterdam in Condessa
Avenida Amsterdam in Condessa
Avenida Amsterdam in Condessa
Avenida Amsterdam in Condessa
Avenida Amsterdam in Condessa

On Thursday, we visited the southern neighborhoods of the city, San Ángel and Coyoacán, visiting the Templo & Museo del Carmen and the Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo. Sadly we didn’t buy tickets far enough in advance to see the Frida Kahlo Museum; they were sold out until mid-March. What poor planning on my part, especially considering it was the primary place I wanted to visit in Mexico City. In Coyoacán, we visited the interesting Museo Casa de León Trotsky. Finally, we dropped into Romita, a small colorful plaza in the midst of Roma Norte; we walked home, stopping at a sidewalk cafe along the way for cold cervezas. We later had a delicious dinner at La Chicha Roma.

me at Templo & Museo del Carmen
me at Templo & Museo del Carmen
Templo & Museo del Carmen
Templo & Museo del Carmen
Templo & Museo del Carmen
Templo & Museo del Carmen
Templo & Museo del Carmen
Templo & Museo del Carmen
San Ángel
San Ángel
me in San Ángel
me in San Ángel
San Ángel
San Ángel
San Ángel
San Ángel
me shopping in San Ángel
me shopping in San Ángel
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
Maque Café
Maque Café
me at Maque Café
me at Maque Café
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
The room where Trotsky was assassinated in Museo Casa de León Trotsky
The room where Trotsky was assassinated in Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Romita
Romita
Romita
Romita
Romita
Romita
Romita
Romita
Romita
Romita
Roma Norte
Roma Norte
Mike in Roma Norte
Mike in Roma Norte
cafe in Roma Norte
cafe in Roma Norte
Roma Norte
Roma Norte
Tr3s Tonala
Tr3s Tonala
Mike at La Chicha Roma
Mike at La Chicha Roma
wrapped jalapeño chilies in ham at La Chicha Roma
wrapped jalapeño chilies in ham at La Chicha Roma

On Friday, the 21st, we rented a car and drove 7 hours (it was supposed to be 4 1/2 but more on that in another post) to Guanajuato, where we stayed for four nights. We stayed in the most wonderful apartment, Hotel Terra Vista, on a ridge overlooking the colorful city. Guanajuato sits in a valley with a network of 28 tunnels running underneath it.

Hotel Terra Vista
Hotel Terra Vista
bedroom in Hotel Terra Vista
bedroom in Hotel Terra Vista
living area in Hotel Terra Vista
living area in Hotel Terra Vista

On Saturday, the 22nd, we strolled through the Jardín de la Unión, went inside the Teatro Juárez, ate lunch near Plaza de la Paz, and then walked aimlessly around the colorful and charming town. To get back to our apartment, we took the Funicular Panorámico up the hillside to the rose-colored El Pípila statute.

terrace at Hotel Terra Vista
terrace at Hotel Terra Vista
Hotel Terra Vista
Hotel Terra Vista
walking down the steps into town
walking down the steps into town
the long walk down
the long walk down
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Teatro Juárez
Teatro Juárez
Jardín de la Unión in Guanajuato
Jardín de la Unión in Guanajuato
Mike in Jardín de la Unión
Mike in Jardín de la Unión
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
me in Guanajuato
me in Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Plaza de la Paz in Guanajuato
Plaza de la Paz in Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Universidad de Guanajuato
Universidad de Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
inside Teatro Juárez
inside Teatro Juárez
inside Teatro Juárez
inside Teatro Juárez
inside Teatro Juárez
inside Teatro Juárez
inside Teatro Juárez
inside Teatro Juárez
at the top of the funicular looking down on Guanajuato
at the top of the funicular looking down on Guanajuato
view of Guanajuato from the ridge
view of Guanajuato from the ridge
Mike above Guanajuato
Mike above Guanajuato
chickens at Hotel Terra Vista
chickens at Hotel Terra Vista
terrace at Hotel Terra Vista
terrace at Hotel Terra Vista
getting dinner near our hotel in Guanajuato
getting dinner near our hotel in Guanajuato
our assembled meal
our assembled meal

On Sunday, the 23rd, we tried for the second time to climb to the top of the Universidad de Guanajuato but we were told it was closed until Monday. Instead, we visited the Museo Casa Diego Rivera, the birthplace of the famous muralist. We also visited the Alhóndiga de Granaditas (public grain exchange), now the regional museum of Guanajuato City. It is important for its role in the Mexican War of Independence.

Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Universidad de Guanajuato
Universidad de Guanajuato
Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Guanajuato
Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Alhóndiga de Granaditas
view of Guanajuato
view of Guanajuato
chickens at Terra Vista
chickens at Terra Vista
Teatro Juárez
Teatro Juárez
musicians in front of Teatro Juárez
musicians in front of Teatro Juárez

On Monday, our last day in Guanajuato, we wandered around to the kissing street, where two balconies across a narrow lane from each other are so close that a couple can kiss each other from the two balconies. Finally, we visited the Mercado Hidalgo and had lunch at a small joint called Mariscos del Mar.

We had many political discussions with other guests and the Canadian owners of Terra Vista, and luckily, since none of them were Trumpers, we found we were mostly on the same page in our disgust with the current administration. And it had only just begun!

church in Guanajuato
church in Guanajuato
Universidad de Guanajuato
Universidad de Guanajuato
the kissing street
the kissing street
Mercado Hidalgo
Mercado Hidalgo
Mercado Hidalgo
Mercado Hidalgo
Mike at Mercado Hidalgo
Mike at Mercado Hidalgo

On Tuesday the 25th, we drove over scrubby high chaparral to San Miguel de Allende, making stops at Santa Rosa de Lima, known for its pottery and majolica, and for its jams and salsas sold at Conservas Santa Rosa.

Endre and Mike: farewell to Terra Vista
Endre and Mike: farewell to Terra Vista
Mayólica Santa Rosa in Santa Rosa de Lima
Mayólica Santa Rosa in Santa Rosa de Lima
Mayólica Santa Rosa in Santa Rosa de Lima
Mayólica Santa Rosa in Santa Rosa de Lima
Conservas Santa Rosa in Santa Rosa de Lima
Conservas Santa Rosa in Santa Rosa de Lima
Conservas Santa Rosa in Santa Rosa de Lima
Conservas Santa Rosa in Santa Rosa de Lima

We also stopped in Dolores Hidalgo, named a Pueblo Mágico (Magic Town) in 2002. The town’s hero, Father Miguel Hidalgo, led the charge in 1810 from the town’s church, Nuestra Señora de los Dolores parish church, for Mexico’s independence from Spain.

Iglesia de la Tercera Orden in Dolores Hidalgo
Iglesia de la Tercera Orden in Dolores Hidalgo
Iglesia de la Tercera Orden in Dolores Hidalgo
Iglesia de la Tercera Orden in Dolores Hidalgo
Mike gets fresh mango in Dolores Hidalgo
Mike gets fresh mango in Dolores Hidalgo
Plaza Principal in Dolores Hidalgo
Plaza Principal in Dolores Hidalgo
Plaza Principal in Dolores Hidalgo
Plaza Principal in Dolores Hidalgo
Nuestra Señora de los Dolores parish church
Nuestra Señora de los Dolores parish church
Nuestra Señora de los Dolores parish church
Nuestra Señora de los Dolores parish church

We arrived in San Miguel de Allende on the evening of the 25th, tossed our bags into our Airbnb, and promptly went out to eat at La Doña San Miguel.

our Airbnb in San Miguel de Allende
our Airbnb in San Miguel de Allende
our Airbnb in San Miguel de Allende
our Airbnb in San Miguel de Allende
our Airbnb in San Miguel de Allende
our Airbnb in San Miguel de Allende
our Airbnb in San Miguel de Allende
our Airbnb in San Miguel de Allende
our Airbnb in San Miguel de Allende
our Airbnb in San Miguel de Allende
dinner at La Doña San Miguel
dinner at La Doña San Miguel
view of San Miguel at sunset
view of San Miguel at sunset

Mike’s 71st birthday was Wednesday, February 26, so I asked him to choose the day’s itinerary. We went on a day-long excursion where we soaked at La Gruta hot springs, enjoyed lunch at Nirvana, visited Santuario de Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco to see its fantastic murals, and then went to Tres Raíces Winery. The only negative to the day was the hour-long wait to get back into San Miguel due to major road construction.

La Gruta hot springs
La Gruta hot springs
Mike at La Gruta hot springs
Mike at La Gruta hot springs
me at La Gruta
me at La Gruta
La Gruta
La Gruta
La Gruta
La Gruta
La Gruta
La Gruta
La Gruta
La Gruta
Mike has a Michelada at La Gruta
Mike has a Michelada at La Gruta
the birthday boy at Nirvana
the birthday boy at Nirvana
Nirvana
Nirvana
view from our table at Nirvana
view from our table at Nirvana
Nirvana
Nirvana
Atotonilco
Atotonilco
Santuario de Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco
Santuario de Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco
Santuario de Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco
Santuario de Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco
Santuario de Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco
Santuario de Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco
Santuario de Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco
Santuario de Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco
Santuario de Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco
Santuario de Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco
Santuario de Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco
Santuario de Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco
Santuario de Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco
Santuario de Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco
Tres Raíces Winery
Tres Raíces Winery
Mike at Tres Raíces Winery
Mike at Tres Raíces Winery
me on our rooftop patio in San Miguel de Allende
me on our rooftop patio in San Miguel de Allende

On Thursday, the 27th, we wandered around San Miguel de Allende, visiting its plethora of churches: Templo de San Francisco, the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel, the Templo de la Immaculada Concepción & Oratorio San Felipe Neri, with a lunch at Los Burritos (a hole in the wall with no expats in it). San Miguel is overrun with retired, white-haired expats, and even though we were certainly as old as most of them, we weren’t that enamored of the sheer numbers of them.

Templo de San Francisco
Templo de San Francisco
Templo de San Francisco
Templo de San Francisco
Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel
Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel
me with a pretty lady
me with a pretty lady
Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel
Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel
Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel
Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel
a shop in San Miguel
a shop in San Miguel
San Miguel de Allende
San Miguel de Allende
me in San Miguel de Allende
me in San Miguel de Allende
Templo de la Immaculada Concepción
Templo de la Immaculada Concepción
Templo de la Immaculada Concepción
Templo de la Immaculada Concepción
me at Los Burritos for lunch
me at Los Burritos for lunch
me in San Miguel de Allende
me in San Miguel de Allende
Oratorio San Felipe Neri
Oratorio San Felipe Neri
park in San Miguel
park in San Miguel
San Miguel de Allende
San Miguel de Allende
me with a Michelada on the rooftop of Baja Fish Taquito
me with a Michelada on the rooftop of Baja Fish Taquito
view from rooftop of Baja Fish Taquito
view from rooftop of Baja Fish Taquito
view from rooftop of Baja Fish Taquito
view from rooftop of Baja Fish Taquito

On Friday the 28th, we had another out-of-town excursion, this time to El Charco del Ingenio, a beautiful botanical garden set near a reservoir just out of town. Then we drove over an hour northeast to the “ghost mining town” of Mineral de Pozos. After a pleasant rooftop lunch in the town, we drove about 15 minutes north on dirt roads that felt like we were in the middle of nowhere. We were in route to the Mine of Santa Brigida, the mine responsible for the economic boon in the region as it had gold, silver, copper, lead, zinc and mercury. The excursion reminded me of all my explorations of ruins with my friend Mario when I lived in Oman from 2011-2013. We enjoyed dinner at Hank’s, a New Orleans-style restaurant that was all decked out for Mardis Gras.

El Charco del Ingenio
El Charco del Ingenio
El Charco del Ingenio
El Charco del Ingenio
El Charco del Ingenio
El Charco del Ingenio
El Charco del Ingenio
El Charco del Ingenio
El Charco del Ingenio
El Charco del Ingenio
El Charco del Ingenio
El Charco del Ingenio
El Charco del Ingenio
El Charco del Ingenio
Mike at El Charco del Ingenio
Mike at El Charco del Ingenio
me at El Charco del Ingenio
me at El Charco del Ingenio
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
Mineral de Pozos
me at the Mine of Santa Brigida
me at the Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Arcos Mágicos at the Mine of Santa Brigida
Arcos Mágicos at the Mine of Santa Brigida
"Hornos Jesuitas" (smelting ovens) at the Mine of Santa Brigida
“Hornos Jesuitas” (smelting ovens) at the Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
Mine of Santa Brigida
me in San Miguel de Allende
me in San Miguel de Allende
Oratorio San Felipe Neri
Oratorio San Felipe Neri
Mike at the entrance to Hank's
Mike at the entrance to Hank’s
Hank's - all decked out for Mardi Gras
Hank’s – all decked out for Mardi Gras
Hank's
Hank’s
Hank's
Hank’s
San Miguel de Allende
San Miguel de Allende
Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel
Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel

Overall, we had a busy and fun month as we tried hard to ignore what was happening in the U.S.  In March, we continued our time in San Miguel de Allende and then went for three nights to Querétaro, returning home on March 5-6.

While traveling, we read of the complete and utter chaos of the FOTUS/Elon administration: dismantling government agencies, including USAID; threatening our allies with high tariffs or annexation (or war??); treating Ukraine’s President and war hero Zelensky with utter disdain and rudeness; handing the U.S. and its long-term interests over to Putin; and threatening all the alliances we have built up over decades. It made me sick to have to return to the U.S. Upon our return, we hope to set in motion long-term moves out of the U.S. We are utterly and completely disgusted with what is happening in our hijacked country.

I finished two books in February, bringing my total to 7/48. My favorite was Berlin Poplars by Anne B. Ragde. We didn’t watch any movies since we were traveling, but we started watching several series including The Åre Murders, Apple Cider Vinegar, and Thank You, Next. We finished watching Maestro in Blue (we were so sad to end that one!) and we continued watching Pachinko, Lincoln Lawyer, Nobody Wants This, Unforgotten, Virgin River, Paradise and Modern Family.

I hope you’ll share how the year is panning out for you, and what plans you have for the spring and the rest of this year.

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