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    • on returning home
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  • Contact

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  • Home
  • about ~ wander.essence ~
    • ~ the places i’ve been ~
    • ~ places i’ve been in the u.s.a. ~
  • Travel Destinations
    • America
      • Boston
      • Delaware
      • District of Columbia
        • Washington
      • Georgia
        • Atlanta
      • Maryland
      • New Jersey
        • Cape May
      • New York
        • Adirondacks
        • Buffalo
        • Niagara Falls
      • Pennsylvania
        • Pittsburgh
      • South Carolina
      • Tennessee
        • Nashville
      • Virginia
    • American Road Trips
      • Canyon & Cactus Road Trip
      • Florida Road Trip
        • Everglades
        • Fort Lauderdale
        • Florida Keys
        • Miami
        • St. Augustine
      • Four Corners Road Trip
        • Arizona
          • Monument Valley
          • Petrified Forest National Park
          • Sunset Crater National Monument
          • Walnut Canyon National Monument
          • Winslow
          • Wupatki National Monument
        • Colorado
          • Colorado National Monument
          • Colorado Towns
          • Great Sand Dunes National Park
          • Grand Junction
        • New Mexico
        • Utah
          • Arches National Park
          • Canyonlands
          • Navajo National Monument
          • Dead Horse Point State Park
          • Hovenweep National Monument
          • Moab
          • Valley of the Gods
          • Natural Bridges National Monument
      • Great Lakes Road Trip
        • Michigan
        • Minnesota
        • Wisconsin
      • Midwestern Triangle
        • Illinois
          • Carbondale
          • Murphysboro
        • Kentucky
          • Covington
          • Lexington
          • Louisville
        • Ohio
          • Cincinnati
      • Road Trip to Nowhere
        • Nebraska
        • North Dakota
        • South Dakota
      • Tex-New Mex Road Trip
        • Texas & New Mexico Road Trip
        • New Mexico
        • Texas
    • International Travel
      • Africa
        • african meanderings {& musings}
        • Egypt
          • Cairo
        • Ethiopia
        • Morocco
      • Asia
        • Cambodia
        • China
          • China Diaries
          • Guangxi Province
        • India
          • Rishikesh
          • Varanasi
        • Japan
          • Kyoto
        • Myanmar
        • Oman
          • a nomad in the land of nizwa
          • Nizwa
        • Singapore
        • South Korea
          • catbird in korea
        • Thailand
        • Turkey
          • Cappadocia
        • Vietnam
      • Central America
        • Costa Rica
        • El Salvador
        • Nicaragua
        • Panama
          • Bocas del Toro
          • Panama City
      • Europe
        • In Search of a Thousand Cafés
        • Croatia
          • Dalmatia
            • Istria
            • Dubrovnik
            • Plitvice Lakes National Park
            • Split
            • Zadar
            • Zagreb
        • Czech Republic
          • Český Krumlov
        • England
        • France
        • Greece
        • Hungary
          • Budapest
          • Esztergom
        • Iceland
        • Italy
          • Bergamo
          • Cinque Terre
          • The Dolomites
          • Florence
          • Rome
          • Tuscany
          • Venice
          • Verona
          • Via Francigena
        • Portugal
        • Spain
          • Camino de Santiago
            • packing list for el camino de santiago 2018
      • North America
        • Canada
          • The Maritimes
            • New Brunswick
            • Nova Scotia
            • Prince Edward Island
          • Ontario
        • Mexico
          • Guanajuato
          • Mexico City
            • Teotihuacán
          • Querétaro
          • San Miguel de Allende
      • South America
        • Colombia
        • Ecuador
          • Cuenca
          • Quito
    • how to make the most of a staycation
      • Coronavirus Coping
  • Imaginings
    • imaginings: the call to place
  • Travel Preparation
    • journeys: anticipation & preparation
  • Travel Creativity
    • on keeping a travel journal
    • on creating art from travels
      • Art Journaling
    • photography inspiration
      • Photography
    • writing prompts: prose
      • Prose
        • Fiction
        • Travel Essay
        • Travelogue
    • writing prompts: poetry
      • Poetry
  • On Journey
    • on journey: taking ourselves from here to there
  • Books & Movies
    • books | international a-z |
    • books & novels | u.s.a. |
    • books | history, spirituality, personal growth & lifestyle |
    • movies | international a-z |
    • movies | u.s.a. |
  • On Returning Home
    • on returning home
  • Annual recap
    • twenty-fifteen
    • twenty-eighteen
    • twenty-nineteen
    • twenty-twenty
    • twenty-twenty-one
    • twenty twenty-two
    • twenty twenty-three
    • twenty twenty-four
    • twenty twenty-five
  • Contact

wander.essence

wander.essence

Home from Morocco & Italy

Home sweet home!May 10, 2019
I'm home from Morocco & Italy. :-)

Italy trip

Traveling to Italy from MoroccoApril 23, 2019
On my way to Italy!

Leaving for Morocco

Casablanca, here I come!April 4, 2019
I'm on my way to Casablanca. :-)

Home from our Midwestern Triangle Road Trip

Driving home from Lexington, KYMarch 6, 2019
Home sweet home from the Midwest. :-)

Leaving for my Midwestern Triangle Road Trip

Driving to IndianaFebruary 24, 2019
Driving to Indiana.

Returning home from Portugal

Home sweet home from Spain & Portugal!November 6, 2018
Home sweet home from Spain & Portugal!

Leaving Spain for Portugal

A rendezvous in BragaOctober 26, 2018
Rendezvous in Braga, Portgual after walking the Camino de Santiago. :-)

Leaving to walk the Camino de Santiago

Heading to Spain for the CaminoAugust 31, 2018
I'm on my way to walk 790 km across northern Spain on the Camino de Santiago.

Home from my Four Corners Road Trip

Home Sweet Home from the Four CornersMay 25, 2018
Home Sweet Home from the Four Corners. :-)

My Four Corners Road Trip!

Hitting the roadMay 1, 2018
I'm hitting the road today for my Four Corners Road Trip: CO, UT, AZ, & NM!

Recent Posts

  • call to place, anticipation & preparation: guatemala & belize March 3, 2026
  • the february cocktail hour: witnessing wedding vows, a visit from our daughter & mike’s birthday March 1, 2026
  • the january cocktail hour: a belated nicaraguan christmas & a trip to costa rica’s central pacific coast February 3, 2026
  • bullet journals as a life repository: bits of mine from 2025 & 2026 January 4, 2026
  • twenty twenty-five: nicaragua {twice}, mexico & seven months in costa rica {with an excursion to panama} December 31, 2025
  • the december cocktail hour: mike’s surgery, a central highlands road trip & christmas in costa rica December 31, 2025
  • top ten books of 2025 December 28, 2025
  • the november cocktail hour: a trip to panama, a costa rican thanksgiving & a move to lake arenal condos December 1, 2025
  • panama: the caribbean archipelago of bocas del toro November 24, 2025
  • a trip to panama city: el cangrejo, casco viejo & the panama canal November 22, 2025
  • the october cocktail hour: a trip to virginia, a NO KINGS protest, two birthday celebrations, & a cattle auction October 31, 2025
  • the september cocktail hour: a nicoya peninsula getaway, a horseback ride to la piedra del indio waterfalls & a fall bingo card September 30, 2025
  • the august cocktail hour: local gatherings, la fortuna adventures, & a “desfile de caballistas”  September 1, 2025

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on returning home from coeur d’alene, idaho

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 June 3, 2019

For just over four years, we called Coeur d’Alene, Idaho our home. The city is named after the Coeur d’Alene People, a tribe of Native Americans who lived along the rivers and lakes of the region. They were first encountered by French fur traders in the late 18th and early 19th century, who referred to them as Cœur d’Alêne, meaning “heart of an awl,” reflecting the Frenchmen’s experience of the tribal traders as tough businessmen, “sharp-hearted” or “shrewd.”

In the first month, my first husband, Bill, and I lived temporarily in a brick rambler.  One dark night while Bill was at work and I was alone, someone knocked at our front door and then disappeared; heart pounding, I picked up a large butcher knife and stole out the back door.  I was terrified of being trapped in the house with a violent intruder.  I figured if I was outdoors, I could scream, or run to a neighbor’s, or just run like hell.  I remember holding that huge knife in the freezing wind of a starless Idaho night with my back up against the rough brick wall of that rambler.  I stole around the entire house, pausing to peek around every corner in case I came face-to-face with the perpetrator.  Luckily, I never encountered a soul.

For some reason, Idaho seemed scary to me in those early days.  Maybe it was because in those days I was afraid of everything.

Four years, and during the remaining winter months of that first year, we lived in an A-frame near Hayden Lake, less than seven miles from Coeur d’Alene. That A-frame was freezing cold and I sat bundled up much of the time in front of an oil furnace making up grocery lists.

For four years, we lived in a tiny house in a run-down part of Coeur d’Alene.  Renovated by some builder, it cost $26,000. It was a perfect price for our first home as Bill had spent most of his inheritance from his mother’s death on his trip across country with his college roommate Andy, and I helped him spend much of the rest. Brown carpet was throughout; everything was new, but every room was claustrophobic.

For these four of the first five years of my newly married life, I felt I was failing miserably at the marriage thing.  I tried to be domestic.  I experimented with recipes out of cookbooks and magazines, expanding past my limited childhood menus: I made soups, hamburger Stroganoff, casseroles of every kind. Bill planted a garden in the backyard and I did a lot of quilting. I felt a bit like a prairie girl, because I certainly wasn’t a mature woman yet. I was 24-28 years old during those years.

me with Bill
me with Bill
my mom and me
my mom and me
me with a quilt creation
me with a quilt creation

For four years we stayed, but only five months after we arrived, on May 18, 1980, a wall of ash marched across the sky on a blue Sunday afternoon.  We hadn’t turned our television on, so we had no idea what was approaching us in that sludge-gray curtain. It seemed Mount Saint Helens, 96 miles south of Seattle, Washington, and 420 miles away from Coeur d’Alene, had erupted. We were covered in ash for days, trapped inside, advised not to drive or go outdoors. We were miserably hot because we couldn’t open the windows; I was worried we’d be stuck forever in that tiny house. After several days, rain fell and eventually, the ash washed away.   The Mount St. Helens eruption was the deadliest and most economically destructive volcanic event in U.S. history.  Fifty-seven people were killed; 250 homes, 47 bridges, 15 miles (24 km) of railways, and 185 miles (298 km) of highway were destroyed.

For four years, we enjoyed short but sweet summers, with perfect temperatures in the high 70s to low 80s and no humidity.  We also suffered through impossibly long and harsh winters, with periodic blizzards dropping up to 36″ of snow; sometimes immediately following a blizzard, the warm and moist Chinook winds swooped in from the Pacific Ocean toward the Rocky Mountains, melting feet of snow within a day or two.

Over four years, we became good friends with Frank and Rhonda.  Rhonda worked with me at Idaho First National Bank and limped because one leg was shorter than the other. Frank didn’t work and was living off a trust fund left to him by his deceased parents. They had built an A-frame log house on a mountaintop outside of town.  We partied with them a lot, drinking a lot and having wild times in that untamed country.

fullsizeoutput_18a01

Frank & Rhonda at Lake Coeur d’Alene

For four years, my husband wrote for The Coeur d’Alene Press.  I wrote for six-months at the fly-by-night weekly newspaper, The Spokane Falls, where I made $45/week.  When the editor quit after I’d been there only a week, I suddenly became editor and I didn’t have a clue what I was doing.  Bill helped me at night, sitting at our kitchen table — a wooden spool that had once held electric cable — and edited my stories until they became HIS stories. Slowly, any confidence I had in my writing ability deteriorated until I had none at all.  I quit and found a job at Idaho First National Bank, where I started as a teller, then worked my way up to management trainee and loan officer.

getting an award at Idaho First National Bank
getting an award at Idaho First National Bank
me at Idaho First National Bank
me at Idaho First National Bank
me winning $100 at Safeway
me winning $100 at Safeway

We had always said we didn’t care about money and that we wanted to accomplish something meaningful in our lives. I got sidetracked from that vision because I was tired of being poor!  We never had any money.  We went out to eat, went on camping vacations, and never bought anything for the house.  We never saved money.  I was ashamed of that little house and never wanted to have any friends over for dinner.

Four years during which we did a lot of hiking and I tried skiing at resorts outside Coeur d’Alene.  I had a fear of heights and fast speeds and my skiing ability was pathetic.  I spent most of my time on the bunny slope, out-of-control, screaming and sliding on my behind.

me skiing near Coeur d'Alene
me skiing near Coeur d’Alene
screaming & out of control
screaming & out of control
my usual position while skiing
my usual position while skiing

Four years in which we attended dog sled races because Bill had to cover them for the newspaper.  He also had to cover crimes, car accidents, local politics and the activities of the Aryan Nations, an anti-Semitic, neo-Nazi, white supremacist terrorist organization which at that time was based on a compound near Hayden Lake.  We kept a police scanner in our house so Bill could hear of any stories he might need to cover.  He’d often run out in the middle of the night to follow the police.

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dog sled races

Four years during which I ran long distances, through neighborhoods, around Tubbs Hill, and on mountain roads with my friend and work colleague Delinda. One year, I ran a 10k in the Hangover Handicap on icy roads on New Year’s morning. I finished last because my feet kept sliding out from under me with every step.  The race officials drove behind me picking up cones and markers for the race, annoying me immensely!

Hangover Handicap
Hangover Handicap
me after finishing last in the Hangover Handicap
me after finishing last in the Hangover Handicap

During our four years, we took a seven-day raft trip down the Salmon River in southern Idaho, organized by a college friend from William & Mary.  Some of Bill’s fraternity brothers were along. Most of us were in two-man inflatable canoes, but two large rafts carried our camping and food supplies. The Salmon is the most massive river in Idaho and one of the largest in North America; it wends its way through the second deepest canyon on the continent, passing through 85 miles of remote wilderness. It has class 3 and some class 4 rapids. We paddled through heart-stopping roller coaster rapids and wave trains punctuated by deep green pools and roiling pillows.  We rested at white sand beaches and pools and bathtubs built into canyon walls. We jumped off bridges into the river.  We took turns cooking dinners for the whole group as we traveled.  When we finished the trip, we took a jet boat back upriver to our starting point in one day.

the William & Mary gang on the Salmon River
the William & Mary gang on the Salmon River
Bill and I in a bathtub built into the rocks
Bill and I in a bathtub built into the rocks
a little relaxation
a little relaxation
Bill in the stern
Bill in the stern
me in the bow
me in the bow
Salmon River
Salmon River
preparing to jump off a bridge over the Salmon River
preparing to jump off a bridge over the Salmon River
jumping
jumping

Four years during which we had crazy parties with our friends and formed a human chain across two-lane roads late at night, dispersing at the last minute when we saw cars approaching from a distance.  A black & white photo of our human chain is pinned to the bookshelf in the photo below.

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Doug, Bill, me, Bill & Karin

Four years in which we explored and camped all around the Pacific Northwest, including Washington, Oregon, Montana, southern Idaho and Banff, Canada.  Four years in which I had too many bad haircuts to count.

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me in Coeur d’Alene

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me at the Oregon coast

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cooking creations while camping

Four years in which our marriage often seemed on the rocks.  We fought a lot and I swore I never wanted children. In a desperate hope of saving our marriage, and after watching The World According to Garp, in which Garp was desperately in love with his family and children, I decided maybe we should have children after all. Both, I realized much later, were stupid reasons to bring a child into the world.

me at Hayden Lake
me at Hayden Lake
Bill at Hayden Lake
Bill at Hayden Lake

I got pregnant almost immediately once we decided to have children, five years into our marriage.  Our daughter Sarah was born in April of 1984 in Kootenai Hospital in Coeur d’Alene, and we moved back to Virginia shortly after she was born; there, we would have family around to be part of her life.

We moved to an apartment on the second floor of an old house in Mathews, Virginia and eventually I went to work as a stockbroker for Thomson McKinnon Securities (now defunct). Nothing helped, however, to keep our marriage together.   Bill and I separated in 1987 and divorced in early 1988, after 7 1/2 years of marriage. Sarah was just over two years old when we separated.

This was my first time to live outside the state of Virginia, where I’d lived my whole life. I didn’t know a thing about relationships as I hadn’t had good role models, and I was entirely too self-centered to be either a wife or a mother.  Life was a struggle for a while after we returned home, as we went through our separation and I tried to juggle full-time work and motherhood. Sarah’s father and I always shared custody of Sarah.  Though her childhood was tough because of this, she admits today that she feels very lucky to have two families, with four parents and four brothers, all who love her dearly.

*January, 1980 to May, 1984*

*************************

“ON RETURNING HOME” INVITATION: I invite you to write a post on your own blog about returning home from one particular destination or, alternately, from a long journey encompassing many stops.  How do you linger over your wanderings and create something from them?  How have you changed? Did the place live up to its hype, or was it disappointing? Feel free to address any aspect of your journey and how it influences you upon your return. If you don’t have a blog, I invite you to write in the comments.

For some ideas on this, you can check out the original post about this subject: on returning home.

Include the link in the comments below by Sunday, June 30 at 1:00 p.m. EST.  When I write my post in response to this challenge on Monday, July 1, I’ll include your links in that post.

This will be an ongoing invitation on the first Monday of each month. Feel free to jump in at any time. 🙂

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  • Burgos
  • Camino de Santiago
  • Europe

{camino day 19} a day in burgos

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 June 2, 2019

I slept fairly well despite the loud music outside my hotel window, which ended about midnight.  I got going around 8:30 to explore Burgos. Sometimes referred to as the Gothic capital of Spain, it was also the seat of Franco’s government until 1938, revealing its nationalist and establishment leanings. Named after its heavy defensive town towers, burgos, it was home to the warlord El Cid.

I walked past the 15th century San Lesmes, built in the 15th century to house the remains of San Lesmes, patron saint of the town who dedicated himself to the care of the pilgrims on the Road to Santiago de Compostela. I smiled at a squat sturdy couple sculpted in metal, and wandered through the empty streets of the city to the plaza fronting Catedral de Santa María, where I commiserated with the tired Monument to the Pilgrim.

early morning in Burgos
early morning in Burgos
San Lesmes
San Lesmes
a sturdy sculptured couple
a sturdy sculptured couple
streets of Burgos
streets of Burgos
pilgrim sculpture
pilgrim sculpture
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Catedral de Santa María

I was headed straight for the café near the cathedral where I had seen churros and chocolate on offer the previous evening.  I enjoyed those for breakfast, along with café con leche and orange juice.

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churros and chocolate and orange juice

Then I went over to the stunning 13th-century Catedral de Santa María, mostly Gothic with elements of Renaissance and Baroque.  It’s a World Heritage Site. There is an excellent audio tour with more information than a person could ever absorb.  I marveled over the multitudes of chapels, choirs, cloisters, altarpieces, and domes. It was huge!  I’ll write another post with photos of the interior. 🙂

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Catedral de Santa María

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door of Catedral de Santa María

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Catedral de Santa María

Virgin Mary in Catedral de Santa María
Virgin Mary in Catedral de Santa María
altarpiece in Catedral de Santa María
altarpiece in Catedral de Santa María
ceiling in Catedral de Santa María
ceiling in Catedral de Santa María
ceiling & altarpiece in Catedral de Santa María
ceiling & altarpiece in Catedral de Santa María
ceiling in Catedral de Santa María
ceiling in Catedral de Santa María

I passed through the Arco Santa María, the medieval entrance dating back to the 14th century, crossing the Puente de Santa María over the río Arlazón, the river that runs around the south side of the city and separates the old town from the new.  I wandered to a pilgrim shop outside the old town that other pilgrims had told me about.  I was looking for a small backpack that could hold a water bladder for my long trek ahead through the Meseta, since I had decided I would continue sending my large backpack ahead for the entire Camino. I found the pilgrim shop, but not the kind of backpack I was looking for.

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Arco Santa María

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inviting stream

I walked back into town and stopped at an outdoor cafe for tapas and limon y cerveza.  I ran into a couple I’d met earlier on the Camino; they were from somewhere in the middle of Virginia, Dick and his wife.  They said they were going to rent bicycles to go across the Meseta, doing two stages a day, in order to meet their timetable to catch their flight home. We planned to meet that evening at 7:00 for dinner outside the cathedral.

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tapas with limon y cerveza for lunch

After lunch, I went to visit Iglesia de San Gil Abad, dating from the 14th-15th centuries, but a wedding was in progress so I couldn’t go in.  I always feel sleepy after having a beer at lunch, so I made my way slowly back to my hotel for an afternoon nap.

I was on the fringe of numerous celebrations in Burgos, but I wasn’t feeling in a celebratory mood because my anger and anxiety over my loved one from the previous night was spilling over into my day.  When I got back to my room, where I had wifi, my husband and I got into a disastrous exchange about him.  He said they’d gone back and forth with a number of texts; he had told our loved one that I was upset that he’d blocked me on every form of social media. I said I didn’t like them talking about me behind my back and I wanted to know everything that was said about me.  When Mike sent the text exchange, I was hurt by everything my loved one said.  It seemed he thought it was “them” (Mike, him and his brother) against me, and that they should move forward, not backwards, without me.  It was extremely hurtful.

I felt so angry with Mike for talking about me with our loved one and then trying to gloss over the conversation and not being forthcoming about it.  I was angry with our loved one because he continued to blame us, especially me, for the problems in his life.  He believed what society labels “schizophrenia” was a gift, not something that should be put down.

He sent this text to my husband, forwarded to me:

She loves the idea of us.  If she actually loved us she would have been there.  Sure we can’t go backwards.  Let’s go forwards.  If she actually loved us she would hear our concerns.  Still not happening.  She needs to reconcile her relationship with her mother.  Mom needs to wake up to the truth that my grandmother was not crazy but in fact simply lived in a controlled world that didn’t want my grandmother sharing her truth.  You guys both need to wake up to the fact that schizophrenic people are not born with a broken brain but their brain is broken slowly over decades by the people in their lives not listening and choosing to believe paid actors over their own family.  She (and you) needs to wake up to the truth that shamanism runs in our bloodline.  This is powerful work and this is what I came here for. The powers that be are working hard to silence us, the shaman class, and we are fighting back, but when our loved ones can’t hear us because of the strength of the deception it gets hard for us to get ahold of ANYTHING.  You don’t have to agree, no, but in order for me to listen to you you’ve got to listen and not immediately put me in a box and start treating me like I’m broken. ……

Look at what I’ve said, I haven’t claimed to know the truth, I’m only saying that the evidence I’ve seen shows lies and cover ups in every major area of human activity and this leads me to question. Then I come to you guys, my parents, with these questions and you’re refusing to entertain the possibility. Even provided evidence, I mean look at mom’s response. She legit said she doesn’t care about this shit. She just wants me to let her live her life. Well living an unexamined life means you’re serving a master you don’t know. And for me to point that out to you is not offensive, it is simply true. ….

You wanna know how much it hurts me to know that you guys legit don’t care at all about me and you put on a facade every chance you get and are trying to shape me into the child you guys always wanted me to be,

I don’t understand why it’s so hard for you guys to comprehend why I’m angry. You both, my only parents in this world, are literally insulting my intelligence 🤷‍♂️ I cannot comprehend why you guys got so angry. I understand why you’re angry now. You were angry then and you keep making it worse. But you need to remember why you got angry in the first place and realize it’s a silly reason. When I remember why I got angry in the first place, it’s still completely justified no matter which way I look at it. I’ve been lied to since day 1. My life has been a witch hunt. Remember that time I got expelled from school for having a plant privately? Remember when mom SCREAMED at me for not completing one assignment in fifth grade, literally towering over a young boy violently yelling over not completing something from school, which you guys never even considered if it was a good place to put me, you just did it because other people told you to. Remember that little boy who sat at the window waving as his daddy left every day for 18+ years. Remember how badly he just wanted to be around his father and learn from him? Now you see this weak pussy of a Peter Pan boy crying because he never learned any life skills from his parents but gave him enough money that he never had to learn those skills himself.  I know why I’m angry. I can’t figure out why y’all are angry? You have more than enough resources. You have the stability to take a minute and do some research and see if your son is crazy or if he’s just one of the few awake. I can’t figure out why y’all are so angry but I’m f** pissed.”

My husband wrote back to him:

So you think your parents were the worst parents in the world because we did the best we knew how and raised our kids the way our friends and peers raised their kids? You choose to focus on negatives vs any positives. Ok that is fine. Everyone makes mistakes – we are human. Many people come from dysfunctional families and in Landmark-speak, at some point in time you need to leave the baggage behind and figure how to move forward and let go of the anger and forgive or it will keep eating away at you. It just seems that you are so angry that we don’t agree with your views and yes we have heard them. That doesn’t seem right.  Mom spent all night praying for you and for herself and talking with others to get different perspectives. She called this morning to suggest paying off the last three months of Alex’s rent so you guys could get a place together. I’ve read tons of books and continue to read so that I am open to new ideas. Mom read the book you sent her right away. Not sure how many moms would have done that.

I felt there was no hope, no way forward.  I could not live with another emotionally unstable person in my life. I wanted to escape from the family.  I felt it was them against me.  My feelings were so strong and dark that I wrote in my journal: “I am feeling like I don’t want to live any longer.  Maybe there is a cliff or a castle wall I can throw myself off.”

Not only did I not fit in with my own family, and I didn’t want to deal anymore with my loved one and his disastrous decisions that always impacted us, but I felt I didn’t fit in anywhere. I felt no connection to anyone.  I hated being in the city with all those people and the loud noise.  I decided then and there I wouldn’t stay in any more cities during my Camino.

When I went into several churches today, I was simply bitter with God because he wasn’t helping at all, despite my pilgrimage and all my prayers. He seemed totally oblivious to my struggles. My loved one seemed to be getting worse, I was feeling hateful, my husband was stressed, and I felt hopeless and isolated.  My loved one despised me and was convincing his brother to hate me.  All I felt I had was my daughter, and I felt she didn’t care about me that much either.  I sent my father a gift card for his birthday and he redeemed it with no thanks whatsoever.  All my relationships seemed to be falling apart.

I had intended to rest back in my room, but after all this, I didn’t get any rest.  I distracted myself by posting pictures of Burgos on Instagram. At 4:00, I went back out and walked to Iglesia de San Gil Abad, where I told God I was angry and bitter.

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Iglesia de San Gil

interior of Iglesia de San Gil
interior of Iglesia de San Gil
interior of Iglesia de San Gil
interior of Iglesia de San Gil

I then walked to the 14th century Iglesia de San Esteban which was closed.

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back of Iglesia de San Esteban

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street art near Iglesia de San Esteban

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Iglesia de San Esteban

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Iglesia de San Esteban & Burgos Cathedral

I climbed endlessly up to El Castillo park, where I walked around the ruins of the Castillo.  From this high point, I had wondrous views over the city.  I felt my spirits lift slightly under the blue sky and the far-reaching views.

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Castillo

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views of Burgos from Castillo

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views of Burgos from Castillo

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views of Burgos from Castillo

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views of Burgos from Castillo

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doorway of Iglesia de San Esteban

I walked downhill to Iglesia de San Nicholás, the 15th century church that sits above Burgos Cathedral.  A church service was in progress, but I determined to come back later because of the magnificent altarpiece. I ran into my Quebec friend Paul, who was waiting at a café in Plaza Santa María for his friend Richard to meet him.  I sat and had a beer with him, but he seemed very preoccupied. I felt he wanted to be rid of me.  I’m sure my gloom was evident, and I couldn’t say I blamed him. They would leave for Zaragoza the next day and I’d never see them again.

Catedral de Santa María
Catedral de Santa María
Catedral de Santa María
Catedral de Santa María
Plaza Santa María
Plaza Santa María
musicians at Plaza Santa María
musicians at Plaza Santa María

After leaving Paul, I went back up to San Nicholás because of the stunning white marble altarpiece I wanted to photograph, but this time there was a wedding in progress. I waited a while for the Virginia couple on the steps, but they never showed up for our agreed-upon dinner plans. I felt hurt that that they ditched me, even though I didn’t care much for them anyway.   Then I reread my loved one’s disturbing texts.

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Iglesia de San Nicholás

I felt defeated.  I trudged back to my room, stopping for patatas brava and another limon y cerveza.  Back in my room, I couldn’t relax because of the loud music blaring outside my window, which only seemed to amplify my churning anxiety.

I needed to get out of Burgos.  I felt I no longer had the heart for my Camino.  I wanted to disappear, vanish into some faraway land.

**********

*Day 19: Saturday, September 22, 2018*

*16,714 steps, or 7.08 miles: out & about in Burgos*

You can find everything I’ve written so far on the Camino de Santiago here:

  • Camino de Santiago 2018

**************

On Sundays, I post about hikes or walks that I have taken in my travels; I may also post on other unrelated subjects. I will use these posts to participate in Jo’s Monday Walks or any other challenges that catch my fancy.

This post is in response to Jo’s Monday Walk: Mértola’s 10th Islamic Festival.

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  • American Road Trips
  • Colorado
  • Four Corners Road Trip

the step house trail at mesa verde

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 May 30, 2019

The Step House trail at Mesa Verde National Park is a self-guided walk.  I did the walk on my first afternoon at Mesa Verde.  It’s a 0.8 mile paved loop trail descending into the alcove. Including several stairways, the elevation change is about 100 feet (30 m).

Step House sits in a shallow, northeast-facing alcove on Wetherill Mesa. It showcases architecture from two separate time periods of the Ancestral Pueblo people’s occupation here: a reconstructed pithouse originally built around 620 A.D. alongside a small multi-story pueblo built centuries later.

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Wetherill Mesa at the start of the Step House Trail

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Wetherill Mesa at the start of the Step House Trail

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Step House Trail

Because of the beautifully crafted baskets found with their pithouses, the people who lived in this area from about A.D. 550 to 750 were called “Basketmakers” by early archeologists.  The “Pueblo” period spans the years from about A.D. 750 to 1300.  The people who lived here during these two periods are different generations of the same cultural group now known as Ancestral Pueblo people.

Pithouses served as standard housing for centuries in the southwest; they might have offered a comfortable home to a family of four or five. Because about six of these circular semi-subterranean structures were found here, it seems approximately 25-30 people may have lived in this alcove at that time. Charred beams and charcoal indicate these pithouses burned at some point.  Enough intact wood remained to estimate construction between A.D. 616 and A.D. 627.

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pithouse reconstruction

Although people lived in this alcove for many generations, it wasn’t until about A.D. 1226 that they built the Step House pueblo.  The rooms, up to two stories high, were built to fit beside, between, under and around the sandstone boulders and natural obstacles.

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small multi-story pueblo

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along the loop trail descending into canyon

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small multi-story pueblo

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Step House

It seems pithouses gradually developed architecturally into the circular underground rooms now called kivas, which were likely used for both social and religious functions.

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kivas

The walls of the kiva were once fully plastered, a practice still followed in some Pueblo villages today. The kiva was once decorated with a painted panel of bighorn sheep bounding across the wall.  The panel was removed in 1989 and placed in the park’s curation facility to protect it.

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kivas

For the 30-40 people who lived here, this large flat area provided space for daily chores.  More than 1,600 corncobs were found in the floor debris here.  Artifacts from Step House offer intriguing clues as to how the Pueblo people lived here: a bowl with browned cornmeal in the bottom; a corrugated jar containing seeds of ten native plants; five pairs of scallop-toed sandals; skin moccasins; willow baskets; yucca cord; reed bundles; feather and fur blankets; a turkey bone awl; a pumpkin container holding feathers, and many more personal objects tell the story of the people who lived here.

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Step House Trail

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Step House Trail

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Step House Trail

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Step House Trail

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Step House Trail

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yucca

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trees destroyed by forest fire

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trees destroyed by forest fire

Like nearly everyone else in the entire northern San Juan region, the residents of Step House moved away by A.D. 1300.

All information above is from literature published by the U.S. Park Service.

*Sunday, May 20, 2018*

*********************

“PHOTOGRAPHY” INVITATION:  I invite you to create a photography intention and then create a blog post for a place you have visited. Alternately, you can post a thematic post about a place, photos of whatever you discovered that set your heart afire. You can also do a thematic post of something you have found throughout all your travels: churches, doors, people reading, people hiking, mountains, patterns, all black & white, whatever!

You probably have your own ideas about this, but in case you’d like some ideas, you can visit my page: photography inspiration.

I challenge you to post no more than 20-25 photos and to write less than 1,500 words about any travel-related photography intention you set for yourself. Include the link in the comments below by Wednesday, June 5 at 1:00 p.m. EST.  When I write my post in response to this challenge on Thursday, June 6, I’ll include your links in that post.

This will be an ongoing invitation, every first, second and third (& 5th, if there is one) Thursday of each month. Feel free to jump in at any time. 🙂

I hope you’ll join in our community. I look forward to reading your posts!

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  • Aveiro
  • Costa Nova
  • Europe

portugal: aveiro & costa nova

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 May 28, 2019

The morning we leave Porto to head south, rain and gloom are forecast all day. The coast of Portugal isn’t on our itinerary, but Mike urges me to come along to explore Aveiro and Costa Nova. I am not keen to get involved in his scheme. After all, what good is the sea if you can’t bask in the sun and enjoy the surf?

Aveiro is all about the sea and its bounty.  It hugs the edge of a shallow coastal lagoon, the Ria, and has been sporadically dubbed the Venice of Portugal due to its small network of canals, humpbacked bridges, and high-prowed boats.  Prosperity is evident in the art nouveau houses that line the streets of the old town.

We wander along the canals, amused by the painted prows of the boats. One boat is painted with a voluptuous woman, her skirt pulled up revealing garters; she’s ready to bob for apples in a barrel with her bright red lips. A bare-chested man stands behind her. In Portuguese are the words << Jasús…O Fruto Proibido!!! >>  (Jesus, forbidden fruit!!!).

Another boat prow pictures a woman with her breasts bursting out of a white bra-like dress; she’s holding a plate of eggs.  In Portuguese: << Que rico par de ovos moles! …. >> (What a rich pair of soft eggs! ….).

On another prow: a blonde woman sports a curvaceous body, small eyes, and a huge beak.  This woman has caused a crash; the drivers must have been gawking.  In Portuguese: << olhinhos… olhinhos! … >> (little eyes! little eyes!).

Other boats are painted with faces of Jesus, pink flamingos, flower bouquets and saints with halos.  The Royal School of Languages sits alongside the canal, promising other cultures and lands.

The street art initiates us into Aveiro’s fishing culture. Mosaic sidewalks are inset with images of seahorses, fish, and circular motifs. Adorning tiled walls are scenes of fishermen and clam diggers; Portuguese women carrying baskets atop their heads; fishing boats, nets, ropes and anchors; boatbuilders and menders.  Dolphins porpoise among scuttling crabs.

We wander the streets, enticed into a store beautifully displayed with canned fish: ovas de bacalhau (cod roe), linguado fumado (smoked sole), atum (tuna fish), and sardinhas (sardines). Some of the cans are dated with years, commemorating special events and celebrities born in that year; they are collector items, so we must collect.  We buy one can for each person in our family for each birth year: 1954, 1955, 1984, 1991, 1992.

  • Mike’s – 1954: Opening of “Estádio da Luz”, Benfica Stadium.  John Travolta e Oprah Winfrey.
  • Mine – 1955: The civil rights movement for American black people begins.  Bill Gates e Steve Jobs.

We dip into the Baroque Catedral de São Domingos, a Roman Catholic cathedral founded in 1423 as a Dominican convent.  It has been on the register of National Monuments of Portugal since 1996.  We’re awed by its interior tiled walls.

Later, as we walk through town, we find more stores with colorful cans of fish: Salmão em Azeite (salmon in olive oil); Filetes de Atum (tuna) and Filetes de Cavala (mackeral). Cans have name brands such as Minerva and Briosa.  Colorful glass fish and ceramic fish-shaped dishes grin at us from store windows.

A shop all about Fado displays CDs of fado, a music form of mournful tunes and lyrics, often about the sea or the life of the poor, and infused with a sentiment of resignation, fatefulness and melancholia.  In the window are Portuguese guitarras and steel-strung classical guitars, even shiny black grand pianos – all in miniature.

Once it seriously starts raining, we dip into a cozy pastelaria for pastry and coffee, and then we return to our car, parting ways with Averio to drive 13km west to Costa Nova.

It is pouring rain by the time we arrive in Costa Nova, but we drive through the quaint streets lined with picturesque candy-striped cottages. These were once the famous haystacks, traditional structures used by fishermen to store their fishing materials.  They have been used as beach houses throughout the years, their façades painted in bright colored stripes.

Tired of being battered by the rain, we drive south to Óbidos, our destination for the night.

Aveiro

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streets of Aveiro

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streets of Aveiro

canal and boats in Aveiro
canal and boats in Aveiro
boats in Aveiro
boats in Aveiro
boats in Aveiro
boats in Aveiro
canal and boats in Aveiro
canal and boats in Aveiro
sea horse sidewalk
sea horse sidewalk
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Aveiro & fancy sardines

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Cans of smoked sole, tuna fish and sardines

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Aveiro’s street art

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Aveiro’s street art

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sidewalks of Aveiro

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Aveiro’s street art

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walking through Aveiro

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town hall

The Catedral de São Domingos displays some beautiful tilework, both inside and out.

Catedral de São Domingos
Catedral de São Domingos
Catedral de São Domingos
Catedral de São Domingos
tiles in Catedral de São Domingos
tiles in Catedral de São Domingos

Costa Nova

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striped and tiled buildings of Costa Nova

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striped and tiled buildings of Costa Nova

Costa Nova
Costa Nova
Costa Nova
Costa Nova
Costa Nova
Costa Nova
Costa Nova
Costa Nova
Costa Nova
Costa Nova
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stripes of Costa Nova

*Wednesday, October 31, 2018*

Steps: 10,960 (4.64 miles)

**********************

“PROSE” INVITATION: I invite you to write up to a post on your own blog about a recently visited particular destination (not journeys in general). Concentrate on any intention you set for your prose.  In this case, one of my intentions for my trip to Portugal was to pick five random verbs each day and use them in my travel essay: 1) involve, 2) initiate, 3) urge, 4) part, 5) cause. √

It doesn’t matter whether you write fiction or non-fiction for this invitation.  You can either set your own writing intentions, or use one of the prompts I’ve listed on this page: writing prompts: prose. (This page is a work in process.) You can also include photos, of course.

Include the link in the comments below by Monday, June 10 at 1:00 p.m. EST.  When I write my post in response to this invitation on Tuesday, June 11, I’ll include your links in that post.

This will be an ongoing invitation. Feel free to jump in at any time. 🙂

I hope you’ll join in our community. I look forward to reading your posts!

the ~ wander.essence ~ community

I invite you all to settle in and read a few posts from our wandering community.  I promise, you’ll be inspired. 🙂

  • Ulli, of Suburban Tracks, shared some great information about how Germany is saving habitats for some very unusual birds.
    • THE RED LINES OF BEING
  • Jo, of RestlessJo, wrote a beautiful piece about how she’s faring 6 months on in her new Tavira home.
    • Living the Dream… 6 Months On

Thanks to all of you who wrote prosaic posts following intentions you set for yourself. 🙂

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  • Atapuerca
  • Burgos
  • Camino de Santiago

{camino day 18} atapuerca to burgos

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 May 26, 2019

I left Atapuerca along a broad stony track at 6:45 a.m. with the two Aussies, Tony and Ray. I had a long talk with Tony as we climbed steadily upward to the top of an unnamed hill.  His son, now 32, is bipolar and has been “locked up” five times. Tony has had issues with him since he was 17. In Australia, he told me, a person can be committed if the person endangers his reputation – by getting in debt, losing jobs, etc.  Tony suggested we talk to mental health professionals to get help and advise us what we can do about our loved one.  He said it was lazy not to do this. I didn’t think we had been lazy, but maybe we’d been in denial. I said to Tony that I’d already been through this with my mother, so why me again?  I felt like I was going to cry, so I let him go ahead and then I had a good cry as I climbed uphill.

Atapuerca to Cruz de Matagrande Punto de Vista (2.2 km)

Cruz de Matagrande
Cruz de Matagrande
Tony and me
Tony and me
Punto de Vista
Punto de Vista
Sunrise at Punto de Vista
Sunrise at Punto de Vista

At the high point of 1,050 meters, we found the Cruz de Matagrande (cross) and a labyrinth marked in stones alongside a military installation. We could see the sparse oak wood through which we’d descend, as well as the broad plain of Burgos, dotted with the villages we’d pass through to get there. We made our way down from the summit, admiring the crocuses underfoot, the building-size haystacks and a big blue bus advertising an albergue.

Cruz de Matagrande to Cardeñuela Riopico (3.1 km)

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Cruz de Matagrande to Cardeñuela Riopico

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Cruz de Matagrande to Cardeñuela Riopico

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Cruz de Matagrande to Cardeñuela Riopico

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Cruz de Matagrande to Cardeñuela Riopico

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building-sized haystack

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a colorful bus

At Cardeñuela Riopico, I stopped for a second breakfast of a vegetarian tortilla, cafe con leche, and orange juice.  My Québécois friends, who didn’t leave Atapuerca until 8:00 a.m., whizzed past me.  It seemed people were always whizzing past me.

Cardeñuela Riopico
Cardeñuela Riopico
breakfast at Cardeñuela Riopico
breakfast at Cardeñuela Riopico
pilgrim dreams
pilgrim dreams
Cardeñuela Riopico
Cardeñuela Riopico

Cardeñuela Riopico to Orbaneja (2.1 km)

After another 30 minutes along a flat paved road, I was in Orbaneja.  Since I’d just eaten, I didn’t stop.

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Cardeñuela Riopico to Orbaneja

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Orbaneja

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Orbaneja

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Orbaneja

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Orbaneja

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Parish church of S. Millán Abad

People had told us that the approach to Burgos was the least pleasant and most tiresome stretch on the entire Camino.  My Quebec friends said they planned to take a bus into town to avoid it, because it was so boring and endless.

There were two choices of routes to get into town, but neither were appealing. The traditional route, followed by most pilgrims, went along a local road from Orbaneja to Villafría; from there it ran along the main N-1, where vehicles would roar by, dangerously close. On this route, the kilometers would seem double their normal length.  The other route, more quiet and unsightly, but not so dangerous, ran on a long pathway along a perimeter fence around an airport, past an area of waste ground strewn with rubble, leading to the town of Castañares.

Orbaneja to Castañares (4.6 km)

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signpost

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Castañares

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walking past the airport outside of Burgos

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Castañares

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Castañares

After Castañares, we began the long arduous walk alongside the rio Arlanzón into Burgos (population 180,000).  It was so depressing walking through suburban sprawl, a sports ground, and industrial areas – gravel works, smokestacks, a metal junkyard, another industrial plant, and a river culvert de rio Arlanzón into the Parque Fluvial (ecosistema de Ribera de rio Arlanzón).  There were many tracks through the extensive parkland, but as long as we kept the river to our right, we couldn’t get lost.

Scenic Route: Túnel (3.8 km)

At the túnel, the pedestrian bridge connected to the “official” waymarked route at a roundabout.  I couldn’t describe how I got the rest of the way to my hotel, which was most definitely NOT in the center of Burgos.  I turned on the Travel Pass on my phone so I could be directed by GPS to Hotel Monjes Magnos, near the library and San Lesmes.  I wanted to check in, but I was too early, so I left my backpack and went into the center of Burgos to meet Ingrid, who had texted me, for lunch. I had walked such a long distance today that I really wanted a shower before going out, but it was impossible since I couldn’t check in.

Cruce Glorieta de Logroño to Burgos Centro
Cruce Glorieta de Logroño to Burgos Centro
Cruce Glorieta de Logroño to Burgos Centro
Cruce Glorieta de Logroño to Burgos Centro
Cruce Glorieta de Logroño to Burgos Centro
Cruce Glorieta de Logroño to Burgos Centro
Cruce Glorieta de Logroño to Burgos Centro
Cruce Glorieta de Logroño to Burgos Centro

Burgos Centro (3.9 km)

Ingrid and I enjoyed a nice lunch and she updated me on her Camino. She had stayed an extra day in Burgos because she’d worn herself out by going super long distances with fast walkers and trying to keep up with them. She planned to take a taxi to some point before Castrojeriz; from that point she would walk to that town. She had to make up for the extra day she took in Burgos because she was due to meet her partner in Paris about a week before I was due to meet my husband in Braga, Portugal.   It was great to meet up with her again.

When it was time for check-in at my hotel, I backtracked quite a distance, checked in and showered.  At that time, I discovered that my loved one had blocked me, but not anyone else in the family, from Instagram and Facebook, and he had stopped sharing his location with me. I felt deeply hurt by this.

Usually my hurt feelings turn quickly to anger.  I was pissed off.  I decided I was going to wash my hands of him. He didn’t realize he had alienated one of his biggest allies and from now on, he would rue the day.  I was so sick of him blaming me for all the bad decisions he had made in his life.  He still harbored anger and resentment over me leaving his father for seven years, from 2007-2014 (we reconciled after that). I understood his hurt, as he took it as an abandonment of him; we had always been very close. Still, it was well past time he needed to get over it and move on. I wrote Mike that I no longer want to help him and his brother get an apartment together and he would NEVER live under our roof again.  I would not even attend any family gathering of which he were a part. I was so sick of carrying the burden of him and at that point, I was done!  I could be so ruthless and cold when I decided to cut someone out of my life.  I had done it before in life, and I wouldn’t hesitate to do it again.

That being said, I did often easily let people back into my life if they were remorseful and sincerely wanted to reconnect.  That is me in a nutshell: easily hurt, quick to anger, and ready to forgive under the right circumstances.  We all do have our faults.

I actually felt some relief having made that decision. I guess the feeling was akin to “letting go,” but not with love, as was the ideal. I was “letting go” in anger.  I told myself I would refuse to ever tiptoe around him again.  I’d always been so worried about sending him into a tailspin that I could never speak my mind. He would have to grovel before me if he ever wanted any relationship with me!  He would be screwed! I could be very hard-hearted when I decided to be.  Admittedly, most of these resolutions were all bluster, but at the moment, those kinds of decisions helped me cope with great emotional turmoil.

After getting all my anger out of me, I shrugged off the whole problem of my loved one and walked back into town to meet Ingrid for dinner. On the way, I took some photos of the church near my hotel, the 15th century San Lesmes.

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San Lesmes in Burgos

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Burgos

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sculpture in Burgos

It was lovely to spend time with Ingrid again.  I tried to let go of all my problems and to enjoy myself.  It turned out I wouldn’t see Ingrid again for the rest of my Camino, though I’d hear from her through Whatsapp and later Facebook and Instagram.

I took some pictures of the 13th century Catedral de Santa María while I was in the old town.  I didn’t go inside, as I planned to stay two nights in Burgos and would have all the next day to explore.

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Catedral de Santa María in Burgos

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Catedral de Santa María in Burgos

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Catedral de Santa María in Burgos

It was excruciatingly loud outside my hotel because a music festival was playing, amplified and screeching, right next door.  Finally, I got a hotel on the Camino, and I’d be lucky to sleep a wink!

**********

*Day 18: Friday, September 21, 2018*

*34,547 steps, or 14.64 miles: Atapuerca to Burgos (21.2 km)*

You can find everything I’ve written so far on the Camino de Santiago here:

  • Camino de Santiago 2018

**************

On Sundays, I post about hikes or walks that I have taken in my travels; I may also post on other unrelated subjects. I will use these posts to participate in Jo’s Monday Walks or any other challenges that catch my fancy.

This post is in response to Jo’s Monday Walk: Mértola’s 10th Islamic Festival.

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  • Anticipation
  • Asia
  • Books

anticipation & preparation: the sultanate of oman

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 May 24, 2019

On Thursday, September 15, 2011, I would leave Washington for Oman; I’d be on a plane from Dulles International Airport (IAD) at 10:50 p.m. on Qatar Airlines.  After a stopover in Doha, I would arrive in Muscat, Oman at 10:30 p.m. Friday evening. It would be about 15 hours of flying time.

Since I first got an offer from the university in early July, I’d been reading everything I could get my hands on about Oman, which wasn’t much. My friend Ed from the State Department, who was in Ethiopia for a 2-year stint, told me that when foreign service officers were assigned to the Middle East, they hoped for an Oman posting. He said they considered it the paradise of the Middle East.

On Amazon.com I found a number of books about Oman, but was especially happy to find two self-published books by Matthew D. Heines, an English teacher in Sur, Oman from 2001-2003. These books told first-hand the life of an American in Oman, teaching English at a university in Sur (not the one where I’d be of course ~ mine was in Nizwa). In the first book, My Year in Oman: An American Experience in Arabia During the War on Terror, Matthew had an intense romance with an Indian woman who taught at a university in Muscat while trying to navigate through difficult teaching dilemmas with an administration in a privately run college where there was more concern for collecting student tuition rather than providing for a good education. He told of snorkeling adventures (apparently there was great snorkeling all over Oman) and camping adventures in the mountains and wadis. He loved his students, especially the women who worked especially hard since they then had an opportunity to get an education by the progressive Sultan Qaboos. Although Matthew encountered many frustrations and hurdles in teaching, overall he had a great experience.

At the end of Matthew’s first book, his Indian girlfriend left him for an arranged marriage insisted on by her parents back in India. This despite assurances she had given Matthew from the beginning that she would never submit to an arranged marriage.

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Wadi Shab

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camels in Salalah

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Salalah

In his second book, Another Year in Oman: Between Iraq and a Hard Place… (American Experiences in Arabia), Matthew continued to suffer heartbreak from his Indian girlfriend and then began a clandestine romance with an Omani woman, which really amounted to rarely meeting in private, a lot of intense phone conversations, and meeting “by chance” in the local souq (market). He had more adventures and a slightly more positive teaching experience.  Through it all, he loved his students.  He left Oman at the end of his two years, knowing that his Omani girlfriend would ultimately end up in an arranged marriage with her cousin!!

I loved reading these stories because they were told from an expatriate’s viewpoint and he was a university English teacher, as I would be.  I couldn’t wait to experience Oman for myself and create my own adventures!

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palace of Sultan Qaboos

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Omani boy in Nizwa souq

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young man in Nizwa souq

Another book I read was Oman – Culture Smart: a quick guide to customs and culture.  This book gave me a good, but brief, overall guide to what I could expect culturally when I got to Oman.

In talking to an English teacher who had been at the university for a year, she told me that we would be provided a one bedroom apartment with a king-size bed, a living room with couch and TV, and a fully equipped kitchen. She said they would show us several apartments from which we could choose.  She also informed me we should wear long-sleeves or 3/4 sleeve tops, long pants, and would want to wear sandals year-round.  She said there were about 70 English teachers in the university and there were many new ones coming in as enrollment had increased quite a bit for the coming school year.  She said she was 62 and that there were lots of teachers there in their 50s and 60s; this made me happy after my year in Korea, where I was by far the oldest teacher there!

goat in Wadi Bani Awf
goat in Wadi Bani Awf
Ibra ruins
Ibra ruins
Ibra ruins
Ibra ruins
Al Areesh desert camp
Al Areesh desert camp

I would take a number of other books along with me to Oman, including Lonely Planet guides to Oman, UAE and the Arabian Peninsula, Dubai, and Middle East.  I hoped to explore all over Oman and UAE while there.  One book was about living and working in Oman, which I would begin reading on the plane on my way there.

In a nutshell, here were my goals for my time in Oman:

1. Continue my Arabic studies and try to use the language as much as possible wherever I go in the region. Aim to achieve some degree of fluency.

2. Make some good Omani friends, as well as fellow expat friends. Love my students!

3. Save money and pay off debts.

4. Explore Oman’s nooks and crannies, mountains, wadis and beaches.

5. Explore UAE, including Dubai and Abu Dhabi.

6. Delve deep into the culture and learn to wear it like a second skin.

7. Read the Quran. Try to learn as much about Islam as possible.

8. Write a lot of blogs.

9. Take a lot of pictures!

10. Take two trips during the year, one to Jordan and one to Greece.

11. Revise my novel. Begin working on another book.

12. Try to learn as much as possible about teaching in an Arab country and add a year of university teaching to my resume. Be the best teacher I can be and establish a great rapport with my students.

These were my goals for my first year in Oman.  My time there stretched into two years, but that wasn’t planned at first. 🙂

hotel on Jebel Akhdar
hotel on Jebel Akhdar
Nakhal Fort and palm plantations
Nakhal Fort and palm plantations
Nakhal Fort
Nakhal Fort
Royal Opera House in Muscat
Royal Opera House in Muscat

*Thursday, September 15, 2011*

************************

“ANTICIPATION & PREPARATION” INVITATION: I invite you to write a post on your own blog about anticipation & preparation for a particular destination (not journeys in general). If you don’t have a blog, I invite you to write in the comments. Include the link in the comments below by Thursday, June 27 at 1:00 p.m. EST.  When I write my post in response to this challenge on Friday, June 28, I’ll include your links in that post.

This will be an ongoing invitation, on the 4th Friday of each month. Feel free to jump in at any time. 🙂  If you’d like to read more about the topic, see: journeys: anticipation & preparation.

I hope you’ll join in our community. I look forward to reading your posts!

the ~ wander.essence ~ community

I invite you all to settle in and read posts from our wandering community. I promise, you’ll be inspired!

  • Sheetal, of sheetalbravon, wrote with much enthusiasm about her first ever international trip to Italy and Sweden.  You’ll want to go along with her!
    • Struck by Wanderlust

Thanks to all of you who wrote posts about anticipation and preparation. 🙂

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  • challenge: a call to place
  • destinations
  • Imaginings

call to place: the sultanate of oman

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 May 23, 2019

Sometimes, our destination is handed to us. We’re offered a job in a new city, or a new country.  This is how I was called to the Sultanate of Oman.  To be honest, I’d never even heard of Oman when I was called there.  So, it was a surprise that I ended up staying two years.

I became interested in the Middle East after the 9/11 terrorist attacks. At that time, I am ashamed to say I didn’t know anything about Arab culture or Islam.  I started reading profusely and studying Arabic. I wrote a novel in which one of the main characters was an Egyptian man.  I’d never known any Egyptians nor had I ever traveled to the Middle East. My interest expanded to international affairs and I started a Master’s program in International Commerce & Policy at George Mason University in September of 2006.  Between my two years of study, in the summer of 2007, I went on an Arabic study abroad program to Cairo, Egypt.

After I completed my Master’s degree in May of 2008, I wanted to get a job in international development.  I was particularly interested in democracy-building or women’s empowerment in the Middle East. However, I applied for over 250 jobs and came up empty-handed.  I would never know if potential employers were put off by my age, which at that time was 52; the fact that my career had been in an unrelated field: 15 years in financial services (I was a stockbroker, and before that a banker – loan officer & credit analyst); or the fact that I’d been a stay-at-home mom for the previous 15 years.

I eventually decided I could get to the Middle East by teaching abroad.  I had no qualifications to teach English as a Foreign Language, except for my B.A. in English (literature). So, I spent a year in South Korea (at ages 55-56) teaching under EPIK (English Program in Korea) with the Korean Ministry of Education.  I was told they’d hire anyone with a B.A. in any subject. As soon as I put in my year there, and concurrently got the online TEFL certification, I started searching for jobs in the Middle East.

I found an ad placed by University of Nizwa on Dave’s ESL Cafe, the source in which I’ve found all my teaching abroad jobs except the first one in Korea, which I found through the Canadian recruiting company, Teachaway.  It was early summer of 2011, after I’d spent my first year teaching abroad in Korea (catbird in korea).

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Nizwa souq

On July 5, 2011, after a phone interview with three Omani men on America’s Independence Day, I received an offer letter to teach English as a Second Language at the Foundation Institute of the University of Nizwa in the Sultanate of Oman.  During that same week, I also received a job offer to teach at King Saud University in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia.  The salary offered by the Saudis was about $700/month higher, but after reading about Oman and learning about the pleasant life I could have there, I accepted the offer from the University of Nizwa.

On July 16, I sent the requested documents to the university and the university sent those on to the Ministry of Higher Education for its approval.  After more back and forth and more requests for “experience certificates,” I was apparently approved by the Ministry of Higher Education at the end of July.  On the morning of August 20, I received my work permit!  I really was going to live and work in Nizwa, Oman in mid-September of 2011!

To put on the final touches, on August 22, I received my plane ticket.  I had told the Human Resources Department that my nearest airport was Dulles International Airport (IAD) near Washington, D.C.  The ticket, however, had me flying out of Dallas/Forth Worth (DFW) in Texas!  Dallas/Dulles ~ only two vowels off!  Ah, the perils of communication when working and living abroad…  🙂  Two days later, I got the corrected ticket.  I would leave from IAD late on Thursday, September 15, arriving in Muscat, Oman late Friday night, September 16.  I was told that “someone” would meet me at the airport.

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Wadi Bani Khalid

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Balad Sayt

The University of Nizwa was established in 2002 by the Decree of His Majesty the Sultan Qaboos as the first non-profit university in the Sultanate of Oman; it remains the only institution of its kind in the nation. On October 16, 2004, the University of Nizwa opened the doors to its inaugural class of 1,200 students, 88% of whom were Omani women. The current campus is located near the base of the famous Jebal al-Akhdhar in Birkat al-Mouz, 20 km NW of Nizwa. The construction of a new campus, located near the new Farq-Hail highway began in March of 2010.

Though the student body comprises native Arabic speakers, the official language of academic instruction is English, making the university a bilingual institution. English language proficiency is achieved in a year-long intensive course as part of the academic General Foundation Program.

The Foundation Program is the University preparatory program for entering students.  According to the guidelines established by the Ministry of Higher Education, it offers English Language, Computer Literacy, Mathematics, and General Study Skills.

Misfat al Abriyyen
Misfat al Abriyyen
ruins of Adam
ruins of Adam
Sur
Sur

*Wednesday, August 24, 2011*

a nomad in the land of nizwa

********************

“THE CALL TO PLACE” INVITATION: I invite you to write a post on your own blog about what enticed you to choose a particular destination. If you don’t have a blog, I invite you to write in the comments.  If your destination is a place you love and keep returning to, feel free to write about that.  If you want to see the original post about the subject, you can check it out here: imaginings: the call to place.

Include the link in the comments below by Wednesday, June 26 at 1:00 p.m. EST.  My next “call to place” post is scheduled to post on Thursday, June 27.

If you’d like, you can use the hashtag #wanderessence.

This will be an ongoing invitation, on the fourth Thursday of each month. Feel free to jump in at any time.  🙂

I hope you’ll join in our community. I look forward to reading your posts!

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  • Camino de Santiago
  • Europe
  • Hikes & Walks

{camino day 17} villafranca montes de oca to atapuerca

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 May 19, 2019

Because I was racing to beat other pilgrims to one of the two albergues in Atapuerca, neither of which took reservations, I left my hotel at 6:20.  I walked endlessly upward under an ink-black sky sprinkled with constellations, guided only by the beam from my headlamp. The uphill was relentless, but finally, after 3.6km, I reached the Monumento de los Caídos, which marks the shallow graves of people executed during Spain’s Civil War. It sits atop Alto de la Pedraja, at 1,250 meters above sea level.

Villafranca de Montes de Oca (pop 200) to Monumento de los Caídos (3.6 km)

Monumento de los Caídos
Monumento de los Caídos
Monumento de los Caídos
Monumento de los Caídos

Then it was down and over a footbridge crossing the arroyo Peroja and steeply up again until the trail widened out under oak and pine forests, dotted sporadically with ash and juniper, for another 8.6km. It was one of the most boring and ugly stretches I’d encountered so far. The track was wide and rocky and there was nothing to break the monotony. The only thing that caught my interest were patches of heather and ferns and some small pine trees laced with spider webs.

Monumento de los Caídos to San Juan de Ortega (8.6 km)

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Monumento de los Caídos to San Juan de Ortega

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flowers on the way

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Monumento de los Caídos to San Juan de Ortega

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the wide flat path

We came upon a kind of rest area (no snacks) with different types of totem poles.  I took a break to walk around looking at them.

Totem rest area
Totem rest area
Totem rest area
Totem rest area
Totem rest area
Totem rest area
Totem rest area
Totem rest area
Totem rest area
Totem rest area
Totem rest area
Totem rest area
Totem rest area
Totem rest area
Totem rest area
Totem rest area
Totem rest area
Totem rest area
Totem rest area
Totem rest area
Totem rest area
Totem rest area
Totem rest area
Totem rest area

Leaving the totem area, I bid adieu to the pilgrim sculpture at the far end.

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pilgrim sculpture

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Monumento de los Caídos to San Juan de Ortega

Along the track, Anne from Paris caught up with me and walked with me for a bit.  She said she slept last night near a shelter we’d passed partway up the mountain. She said people were out hiking this morning at 5:00 a.m., shining their headlamps into her eyes.  She planned to walk all the way to Burgos today.

Anne’s brief presence alongside me today was a blessing.  She said she wasn’t afraid of sleeping outside; she was more afraid of men approaching her in Paris.  Once a friend gave her a can of pepper spray; she always kept it handy.

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Anne who slept outdoors

At the tiny hamlet of San Juan de Ortega (pop. 20), I shared a ham and cheese croissant with Anne.

San Juan, a disciple of Santo Domingo, was known for his great works to serve pilgrims along the Camino. He built bridges, hospitals, churches and hostels throughout the region. In this town full of dangers and difficulties for medieval pilgrims, he built an Augustinian monastery in 1150.  The chapel is dedicated to San Nicolás de Bari, who supposedly saved San Juan from drowning on his way back from pilgrimage to the Holy Land.

It was too bad I wasn’t here two days later, on September 22 (the autumn equinox) to see the “miracle of light.”  On that day, as well as on the spring equinox of March 21, a ray of light enters the building and illuminates the image of the Annunciation, with the Archangel Gabriel and the Virgin Mary. I didn’t stop here for long, just long enough to admire the mausoleum of Saint John with the canopy that surrounds it.

Monastery at San Juan de Ortega
Monastery at San Juan de Ortega
Monastery at San Juan de Ortega
Monastery at San Juan de Ortega
Monastery at San Juan de Ortega
Monastery at San Juan de Ortega

San Juan de Ortega to Agés (3.6 km)

I left Anne behind in San Juan de Ortega because she reconnected with some young friends she’d met earlier in her walk.  I walked endlessly alone through more forest, not knowing for a long time if I might be lost. The forest was lovely, with spaces between the trees filled in with heather and grass.

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San Juan de Ortega to Agés

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San Juan de Ortega to Agés

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San Juan de Ortega to Agés

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San Juan de Ortega to Agés

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San Juan de Ortega to Agés

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San Juan de Ortega to Agés

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San Juan de Ortega to Agés

When I finally emerged from the forest, I could see farmland and the two towns I was expecting: Agés and Atapuerca.  I can’t tell you how exciting it is when you finally see your destination glowing in the sunlight before you.

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San Juan de Ortega to Agés

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San Juan de Ortega to Agés

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approaching Agés

I walked through Agés, a pretty little town.  Its old quarter has houses in a traditional architectural style, with wood and adobe (sun-dried clay and straw bricks) as the building materials. Stone is also evident in construction.

Agés
Agés
Agés
Agés
Agés
Agés
Agés
Agés
Agés
Agés

Agés to Atapuerca (2.5 km)

After leaving Agés, I kept on, at first slightly downhill, crossing the simple medieval stone bridge, Puente Canto, built by San Juan de Ortega over the río Vena (a tributary of the río Arlanzón). It seemed like a long slog on a paved road to Atapuerca.

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Agés to Atapuerca

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Agés to Atapuerca

Atapuerca has become famous for its paleontological sites, chief of which is the Sima de los Huesos (the pit of bones), where some of the earliest human remains have been found. Ongoing excavations and analysis at this UNESCO World Heritage site point to human activity going back at least 1.2 million years. Sadly this site was 3km off the Way, so I didn’t spend the half-day it would take to get there and back, plus to explore the site.

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World Heritage site at Atapuerca

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Agés to Atapuerca

When I arrived at 11:30 a.m., at Albergue El Perigrino, I put my backpack in line for a room.  They didn’t open until 1:00, so I just sat around chatting with people.  Here, I met Simon and Karen from Britain, who I’d meet many more times along the Camino; Ray and Tony, the friendly Aussies; and my Quebec friends, Paul and Richard.

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Atapuerca

It was hot, so once we were assigned our rooms, I headed for the narrow unisex shower room.  I was one of the first in.  When I came out, fully dressed in my clean clothes but still damp, Tony and Ray, bulky guys both wearing only their underwear, were on either side of me.  I laughed and said I felt like I was between a rock and a hard spot.  People were packed into the shower room.

Ray and Tony then asked if I’d like to share a washing machine with them in a combined load of laundry.  I threw my stuff in with theirs. Later, after I returned from lunch, I found Tony happily hanging up my underwear on the line outdoors.  “Nice things,” he said with a grin. 🙂

I went to the bar in town for a lunch of potato tortilla and limon y cerveza and toothpicks with blocks of cheese, prosciutto  and olives smothered in olive oil.  I sat with my two French Canadian friends, Paul and Richard. We shared a deep conversation over a few beers.  After Burgos, their Camino would be over.  Paul had done it before with his partner of 28 years, and this time was doing it with Richard, his friend of 40 years. I told them about my seven year separation, and they were curious about how that worked out.  Richard had been married before and had kids from his marriage, but had been with his current girlfriend for three years.

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Paul and Richard from Quebec

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Atapuerca

After lunch, I wandered up the hill to the 15th century parish church of San Martin, visible on a steep hill from the town below.  A cool breeze soothed my heart.  I said prayers inside.  Paul had said during lunch that in the churches he felt a vortex of prayers ascending to heaven from pilgrims doing the Camino for the last 1,000+ years.  He felt it was his job to be grateful and to listen.

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Parish church of San Martin

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cemetery in Parish church of San Martin

interior of Parish church of San Martin
interior of Parish church of San Martin
interior of Parish church of San Martin
interior of Parish church of San Martin
interior of Parish church of San Martin
interior of Parish church of San Martin

I enjoyed beautiful views of Atapuerca and the surrounding countryside from the hilltop grounds of the church.

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view from interior of Parish church of San Martin

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Atapuerca

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a discarded bull

I returned to my room at the Albergue El Perigrino to lie down and suddenly I got a text message from my loved one: “I don’t know what to do dad won’t talk to me and I’m going crazy over here the tiniest little things happen and I f** rage nobody will talk to me I’m completely alone.” I tried to call him and my husband but couldn’t get through to either of them. I called his brother who lives in Colorado and suggested our loved one should check himself into a hospital; he said our loved one would never do that and he wouldn’t either. He said they were both in a bad place right now.  Our loved one had a big fight with his brother’s roommate Nick, who told him to get out, that he could no longer stay with them. He admitted Nick was a nightmare, an alcoholic who, after being sober for 6 years, was actively drinking again.  He also said he was homesick and dreamed of coming home and he had been talking to his ex-girlfriend who was helping him; she had broken up with her boyfriend months ago.  He didn’t know what he would do back home and he still liked his job.  But he wanted to look after his brother and possibly live with him.

Albergue El Perigrino
Albergue El Perigrino
Albergue El Perigrino
Albergue El Perigrino

Then my loved one called and said he was upset that he couldn’t talk to anyone and wanted to share his ideas with his family .  He believed that he couldn’t trust anyone because the things he’d been told all his life were not true, one thing being that the earth is round.  He believed the edge of the earth is Antarctica and there is an international force there with guns keeping people on earth.  He said we need to change what we do; we should stop paying taxes to the U.S. government because they’re supporting the killing of children in Gaza and if the government comes to collect taxes, we should stand up to them. I said I didn’t believe any of that, and even if were true, it doesn’t affect how I live my life. I also said I wasn’t going to stop paying taxes and go to jail for the rest of my life; there are other ways to help children in Gaza, by giving to charities, etc.  I said I was trying to find joy in my one and only life.

He asked what if he could prove the earth was flat and I said it would depend on the source and he said it was NASA dot gov. I said, “How is this information useful in your life?” At this he hung up on me.  I didn’t call him back but got on the phone with my husband for an hour; he wondered if he should fly to Denver and notify the police of our loved one’s location because he spent 1 1/2 hours on the phone  with him and believed he was at the end of his rope.  He also said our loved one was so agitated that he couldn’t go to his job at Chipotle, which meant he would likely lose another job.

Later, our loved one sent a text to both of us saying, “I challenge you guys to simply consider the question: ‘What if he’s telling the truth?”

I wrote back a long, well-thought-out (in my opinion) text, which he never answered: “Let me ask you: Is all this research and are all these thoughts serving you well in your life?  You can find information out there to support any idea you want to believe.  Even if you are telling the truth, it doesn’t affect my life. I want to find joy in this life as much as possible and to connect with people. I have met so many people on the Camino struggling with many issues, yet they manage to find joy in the midst. Dad told me you were so agitated today you didn’t go to work, which may cause you to lose your job. Does making everyone upset and angry connect you or separate you from others? The big question is, are these beliefs serving you well and enabling you to feel fulfilled in your life? If they’re making you miserable, maybe it’s time to reevaluate. I love you and sadly I feel helpless to do anything to help you. I love you every second of my life with all my heart but I feel heartbroken that you seem to want to be at odds with the world. The world is not going to change to suit you, so why don’t you work to be the change you want to see in the world? I honestly don’t care if the world is flat or in the shape of a triangle; my desire is to find fulfillment and joy in the one life I have. You have so much to offer the world but if you continue as you are, I just don’t see how you will find your way. I love you but please don’t waste your time trying to convince me of your beliefs because they won’t change the way I life my life.”

My husband thought my message sounded good.  Later, our loved one sent a text to my husband saying: “Just went and talked to a priest.  He said he’s glad to see young people like me asking questions like this.  He said he’s sorry my own family won’t listen to me.  I’m going to work today but for one reason…SOMEBODY listened to me.”

I was terribly upset. I felt keenly the futility of trying to talk logically to someone who is illogical.  Also, I knew I needed to step back.  In the end, people are going to believe what they are going to believe.  I can’t change anyone’s mind about anything. I felt my loved one needed psychological help, but there was no legal way I could force him to get help. Unless he attempted suicide or hurt someone, I was powerless. He was determined that he would not seek psychological help.  He always has been firm on that point. My heart ached for him and his struggles; I wanted so much to help him but he has to want to seek help.

I must have looked devastated as I walked back to the albergue (I had been walking through the streets of the town as I talked to my husband on the phone, crying sporadically), because I met up with Karen and Simon and they listened lovingly to my predicament. Simon said gently that young people these days can find any information online to support any belief.  They shared that someone in their family went through a series of breakdowns and it turned out she had been struggling with her sexuality.  I loved how they shared their vulnerability, and were understanding and not judgmental, and they didn’t offer advice.  They helped soothe my angst considerably.

I went to eat at the bar – pizza and red wine – and the bartender, who had been gruff earlier, must have sensed I was stricken because he was very gentle with me.

On the way back, I sat with Paul and Richard and told them what happened and let them read my text to my loved one. They thought it was a good text. Paul said I should just set him aside from my mind because I couldn’t do anything to help him unless he decided to help himself. Richard disagreed and said it was impossible because I am his mother.

I could hardly sleep all night because I was so agitated and anxious about my loved one’s mental health and well-being. I felt utterly helpless.  I also felt disappointed that all my prayers, offered daily in my long solo walks and in churches along the Way, seemed to be going unanswered.  What little faith I had been building seemed in danger of being snuffed out.

Atapuerca is one place I will never forget.  The kind friends I met, the funny experience of the shower and laundry, and this traumatic experience all mingled together to etch the time and place vividly into my memory.  I can still see it clearly today, and I still feel my heart race when I think about it.

**********

*Day 17: Thursday, September 20, 2018*

*230,502 steps, or 12.93 miles: Villafranca Montes de Oca to Atapuerca (18.8 km)*

You can find everything I’ve written so far on the Camino de Santiago here:

  • Camino de Santiago 2018

**************

On Sundays, I post about hikes or walks that I have taken in my travels; I may also post on other unrelated subjects. I will use these posts to participate in Jo’s Monday Walks or any other challenges that catch my fancy.

This post is in response to Jo’s Monday Walk: Back Lane Beauty.

 

 

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  • American Road Trips
  • Cincinnati
  • Lens-Artists

cincinnati street art

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 May 16, 2019

A city that enlivens itself by investing in street art is one that uplifts and transforms: the city, its people, the entire atmosphere.  ArtWorks Cincinnati is a program that, according to its website: “believes in human potential and fights for the betterment of our local communities through the power of the arts.”

Below is a sample of street murals in Cincinnati, Ohio we discovered during our three day visit in early March of this year.

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ArtWorks Cincinnati

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ArtWorks Cincinnati

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ArtWorks Cincinnati

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ArtWorks Cincinnati

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ArtWorks Cincinnati

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ArtWorks Cincinnati

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ArtWorks Cincinnati

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ArtWorks Cincinnati

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ArtWorks Cincinnati

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ArtWorks Cincinnati

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ArtWorks Cincinnati

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ArtWorks Cincinnati

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ArtWorks Cincinnati

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ArtWorks Cincinnati

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ArtWorks Cincinnati

We found this three paneled mural in Oakley, a neighborhood in Cincinnati.

Morning, Noon and Night ArtWorks mural in Oakley
Morning, Noon and Night ArtWorks mural in Oakley
Morning, Noon and Night ArtWorks mural
Morning, Noon and Night ArtWorks mural
Morning, Noon and Night ArtWorks mural
Morning, Noon and Night ArtWorks mural

This post is part of the Lens-Artists Photo Challenge #45: Street Art.

*March 2-4, 2019*

*********************

“PHOTOGRAPHY” INVITATION:  I invite you to create a photography intention and then create a blog post for a place you have visited. Alternately, you can post a thematic post about a place, photos of whatever you discovered that set your heart afire. You can also do a thematic post of something you have found throughout all your travels: churches, doors, people reading, people hiking, mountains, patterns, all black & white, whatever!

You probably have your own ideas about this, but in case you’d like some ideas, you can visit my page: photography inspiration.

I challenge you to post no more than 20-25 photos and to write less than 1,500 words about any travel-related photography intention you set for yourself. Include the link in the comments below by Wednesday, May 29 at 1:00 p.m. EST.  When I write my post in response to this challenge on Thursday, May 30, I’ll include your links in that post.

This will be an ongoing invitation, every first and third (& 5th, if there is one) Thursday of each month. Feel free to jump in at any time. 🙂

I hope you’ll join in our community. I look forward to reading your posts!

the ~ wander.essence ~ community

I invite you all to settle in and read a few posts from our wandering community.  I promise, you’ll be inspired!

  • Ulli, of Suburban Tracks, wrote a post about an archeological site in Germany with some special energies and dynamics.
    • OBSCURE MENHIR EVENT

Thanks to all of you who shared posts on the “photography” invitation. 🙂

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  • American Road Trips
  • Carbondale
  • George Rogers Clark National Historical Park

on journey: indiana to illinois

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 May 15, 2019

It was deserted at the Baymont Wyndham Hotel in Lincoln City, Indiana. I had breakfast all by myself: a fried egg, two chicken sausages, a banana, orange juice and coffee. When I left the hotel at 9:07, it was 28º F, but at least skies were blue.

Outside of Dale, Indiana, my stomach turned at the sight of a billboard that said: “Make America Great Again,” with a photo of Trump and an unfurling flag. I stomped my foot to the accelerator to bypass that abomination and headed toward Santa Claus and Gentryville, IN under a flock of birds skittering across the sky.

I drove past Hoosierland Pizza & Wings and columns of grasping trees to the Lincoln Boyhood Home National Memorial, where I watched a film telling the story of Abraham Lincoln’s boyhood and family life.

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Lincoln Boyhood National Memorial

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relief carving on the Lincoln Boyhood National Memorial

In a nutshell, Thomas Lincoln, Abraham’s father, encountered problems with Kentucky’s land laws, so he bought 160 acres of land on Pigeon Creek north of the Ohio River in Indiana.  In December of 1816, the family arrived.  Abraham, age 7, was big and strong and helped his father clear the land; from the cut trees, they built a cabin and furniture. He learned carpentry from his father. The family worked together planting and harvesting crops such as corn; they also tended livestock: cows, chickens, pigs and sheep, the wool from which they made into clothing.

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walking the trail to the Lincoln Boyhood Home

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the remains of Lincoln’s Boyhood home

Some cabins, sheds and barns at the site are used for prairie life reenactments, but these are not the original buildings from Lincoln’s boyhood.

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log cabin used for prairie life reenactments

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barn used for prairie life reenactments

barn used for prairie life reenactments
barn used for prairie life reenactments
barn used for prairie life reenactments
barn used for prairie life reenactments

Abraham was proficient with an axe, and people often remarked about his ability to fell trees and split them into rails for fences.  In 1860, when he ran for President, Lincoln would be called “The Rail-splitter” candidate.

Lincoln the "Rail-splitter"
Lincoln the “Rail-splitter”
trees on the family property
trees on the family property
trees on the family property
trees on the family property

Lincoln said of work: “My father taught me how to work but not to love it… I’d rather read, tell stories, crack jokes, talk, laugh – anything but work.”

Thomas was a storyteller with morals and a sense of humor.  Nancy, Abe’s mother, taught Abe to read and write and encouraged him to acquire knowledge.

Sadly, in 1818, two years after they arrived in Indiana, Nancy Hanks Lincoln died of milk sickness, caused by drinking milk from a cow that ate white snakeroot, a shade-loving poisonous plant found throughout the Ohio River Valley.  Cows can transfer the disease to humans through their milk.  Abe’s sister Sarah, who was two years older than him, had to do all the cooking, sewing and mending.

diorama of Nancy Hanks Lincoln's burial
diorama of Nancy Hanks Lincoln’s burial
knoll leading to Nancy Hanks Lincoln's grave
knoll leading to Nancy Hanks Lincoln’s grave
memorial to Nancy Hanks Lincoln
memorial to Nancy Hanks Lincoln

In 1819, Thomas went back to Kentucky to look for a new wife, leaving the two children to fend for themselves. He brought back Sarah (Sally) Bush Johnston, who had three children of her own.  She united the two families and brought three books with her.

Some of Abraham’s favorite books were Aesop’s Fables, Pilgrim’s Progress and Ivanhoe. In the evenings, the family read aloud from the Bible, and Abe considered it the “best gift God has given to man.” He read Indiana law books and court proceedings and was fascinated by the lives of George Washington and Benjamin Franklin.  Besides his love of books, he had a gift for public speaking.

In his late teens, Abraham began to earn his own way.  In 1826, he and his cousin and a neighbor made money by cutting cordwood for steamboats on the Ohio River.  He also operated a ferry across the Anderson River, earning about $6 a month.  To make extra money, Abraham built a small rowboat to take travelers from the riverbank to steamboats waiting in the middle of the Ohio.  He was accused of operating an illegal ferry and had to appear in court.  His defense was that he was only ferrying passengers to the middle of the river, not all the way across.  The judge ruled in his favor, and the charge was dismissed.  Later, he took up law and learned about the legal system.

In 1828, his sister Sarah died giving birth to her first child and the infant died too.

Abe took a flatboat trip with a friend down the Mississippi River to New Orleans and came face to face with slavery at a New Orleans slave auction.  He was angered to see families separated and sold. In 1830, when Abe was 21, he left for Illinois and to escape another epidemic of milk disease.

I took a walk through Lincoln’s boyhood trails, now marked with stones from important places in his life.

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Boyhood trails on the property

Stone from Lincoln's birthplace in Hodgenville, KY where he was born on Feb. 12, 1809
Stone from Lincoln’s birthplace in Hodgenville, KY where he was born on Feb. 12, 1809
Stone that was part of the White House in Washington, D.C., where President and Mrs. Lincoln lived from 1861 to his assassination on April 15, 1865
Stone that was part of the White House in Washington, D.C., where President and Mrs. Lincoln lived from 1861 to his assassination on April 15, 1865
Stone from the Anderson Cottage in Washington where Lincoln wrote the Emancipation Proclamation in 1862
Stone from the Anderson Cottage in Washington where Lincoln wrote the Emancipation Proclamation in 1862
The rock where President Lincoln stood when he delivered the Gettysburg Address, November 19, 1863
The rock where President Lincoln stood when he delivered the Gettysburg Address, November 19, 1863

In his 14 years at his boyhood home in Indiana, Lincoln learned honesty, knowledge, compassion for man, and his moral convictions of right and wrong.  Here he developed leadership skills that would serve him well during one of the most traumatic times in our nation’s history.

I left the Lincoln Boyhood Home around 11:00, when the temperature had finally risen to 39º F.  I passed big farm spreads with complicated silos and grain elevators, a pale green weathered barn, a church steeple on a hill, and Dave’s Gunshop.  I fell in love with a farmhouse surrounded by a stand of trees.  An Amish Buffet called my name, but it was too early for lunch.

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southern Indiana silos

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farm operation in southern Indiana

Flocks of birds rose and fell, splitting and dancing, swept into cross-currents, parting and sweeping the sky.  I saw signs for the Wabash and Erie Canal, Carts Gone Wild, Grace’s Toys and Dolls, and a plethora of personal injury billboards. Smokestacks marred the horizon to the northwest.  Three giant white coned cylinders had the Superior Ag stamp on them. Other blocks of silver cylinders also had cone tops.  I was confused about whether these were silos or grain elevators.

I drove past a sign for the Red Skelton Museum of American Comedy in Vincennes, Indiana.  Huge flocks of birds descended and landed on a waterlogged field.  The flat expanse of land was dotted with farm operations.  Multi-arched sprinklers on wheels hovered over fields and silver silos glowed in the sunlight.  I passed the Windy Knoll Winery, Casey’s General Store and a Good Will Center, a Dollar General, Save A Lot, and Old Post Liquor.  A huge cemetery splayed out from both sides of the road and the Good Samaritan Hospital offered healing for the sick.

Before long, I was at the George Rogers Clark National Historic Park in Vincennes, Indiana. I had no idea who George Rogers Clark was, nor did I know anything about this military campaign or its significance.  What they don’t teach you in school!

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George Rogers Clark Memorial

At the Visitor’s Center, I watched a film about the “Long Knives,” Kentucky fighters that were on a top secret mission. The upshot was this:  After the French and Indian War (1754–1763) and during the early years of the Revolutionary War (1775-1783), British soldiers under Lt. Governor Henry Hamilton were still controlling territories west of the Appalachian Mountains. The British were recruiting Indians to attack and kill settlers to these areas, including settlers in Kentucky. George Rogers Clark, born in 1752 as one of ten children of a wealthy Virginia planter and older brother to William Clark, of the famous Lewis & Clark, wanted to break the Brits’ Fort Detroit stronghold: Cahokia and Kaskaskia on the Mississippi River and Vincennes on the Wabash River. In utmost secrecy, Clark attracted 150 men (of the 400 he hoped for) and trained them on Corn Island on the Ohio River.  He managed to get 26 more for a total force of 176.  They were a disciplined little army under Clark’s intense training.  Their goal: to attack the British post at Kaskaskia – Fort Massac – in the heat of the summer, on level country populated by buffalo, in a surprise night attack on July 4, 1778. Persuading the French settlers under Father Pierre Gibault there to cooperate based on a document of alliance between the U.S.A. and France, Clark left them in peace and then proceeded to Cahokia and then to Vincennes. By the autumn of 1778, Clark controlled all three towns. He told Indians attacking settlers that they were being used by the British.

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characters in the drama: George Rogers Clark, Father Piere Gibault, an Indian, and Henry Hamilton

Henry Hamilton in Fort Detroit, 800 miles away, didn’t know the towns had been taken.  When he found out, he mounted an expedition to take back Vincennes; he succeeded,  rebuilt Fort Sackville and hunkered down there with 35 British regulars and 45 French.

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model of Fort Sackville, which no longer survives

Winter came on and prairies turned to bogs. Clark planned to strike when Hamilton was weakest. The riverboat, The Willing, failed to bring needed supplies, but Clark had to either attack Hamilton or quit the country. On February 5, 1779, he led his men on a 200 mile march to Vincennes. Their biggest enemy was nature.  In nine days of marching, the weather was unseasonably warm, but rain and the nights were frigid. The men were hungry and the land was underwater. The Wabash River had turned into a lake four miles across. They had to march through deep channels of freezing water for three days on empty stomachs because The Willing never came with provisions.  Doom gripped them as they waded through ankle deep mud.  Surprisingly, all 180 men survived and reached land, pushing to higher ground.

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The Wabash River today

The accurate Kentucky sharpshooters badly wounded a number of British troops in Fort Sackville. By February 24, 1779, the Americans were in control and ate their first full meal in a week. Clark ordered Hamilton to surrender and a cease fire was agreed, but Hamilton still held out. To force the issue, Clark executed Indians by tomahawk in front of the fort. Shaken by that display, Hamilton surrendered on February 25, 1779.

As a result of Clark’s brilliant military activities, the British ceded to the United States a vast area of land west of the Appalachian Mountains. That territory now includes the states of Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, Wisconsin and the eastern portion of Minnesota.

In 1818, plagued by debts and ill health, George Rogers Clark died at the age of 65, seemingly forgotten.  It wasn’t until many years later that he was recognized by Franklin D. Roosevelt for his acts of courage and leadership. The George Rogers Clark Memorial was built between 1931 and 1933.

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George Rogers Clark Memorial

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George Rogers Clark Memorial

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inside the George Rogers Clark Memorial

It was odd that I happened to arrive here on February 25, exactly 240 years after Henry Hamilton surrendered to George Rogers Clark; the National Park Service had just finished wrapping up a celebration to memorialize this oft-forgotten battle in our country’s history.

murals in the George Rogers Clark Memorial
murals in the George Rogers Clark Memorial
murals in the George Rogers Clark Memorial
murals in the George Rogers Clark Memorial
murals in the George Rogers Clark Memorial
murals in the George Rogers Clark Memorial
murals in the George Rogers Clark Memorial
murals in the George Rogers Clark Memorial
murals in the George Rogers Clark Memorial
murals in the George Rogers Clark Memorial

A detailed history of the campaign is on the National Park website: History & Culture.

At 2:33, “Welcome to Illinois” greeted me after I crossed the Wabash River.  The land was flat and boggy, watersoaked through and through, and I couldn’t help imagining George Rogers Clark and his band of soldiers wading through the bogs.  I crossed the Embarras River and a water tower that spelled out “Olney.” Mobile home parks lined the road and a big Walmart distribution center sat among stubbled flat fields dotted with copses of trees. It seemed there was a Walmart in every town. I crossed Big Muddy Creek, Little Muddy Creek, and the Little Wabash River on modern bridges, but three rusty metal bridges sat shuttered parallel to the main road.  I wasn’t tempted to stay in the Floral Hotel near Raccoon Creek, nor was I tempted by Missy Ann’s Bed and Bath.  Ornamental grasses glowed along the road and stubbled fields glinted with sunlight.  In Xenia, a derelict barn sat abandoned in boggy land.  If I’d had a pet, I might have stopped at Paws Here Veterinary Service.  I saw Iuka had a population of 600, while Salem, with its neat streets of craft bungalows, had 8,000 residents.

In the town of Salem, I was in search of Richard Pollard’s Yard Art.  Sadly, it was closed off with a rusty chain and a “No Trespassing” sign. I was only able to take one picture of the funky junkyard, a Volkswagen emblazoned with “Pollard Motors” perched precariously on a post.

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Richard Pollard’s Yard Art in Salem, Illinois

Leaving Salem behind, I headed south on Rt. 57, passing a billboard for The National Quilt Museum in Paducah, Kentucky. It was tempting but out of my way. I stopped briefly at Rend Lake, a 13-mile-long, 3 mile-wide reservoir created when the Army Corps of Engineers dammed the Big Muddy River.

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Rend Lake, Illinois

I drove through a series of small towns: Ina, with its Pleasant Hollow Winery, and Zeiglar, from which convoluted roads finally led me to my sister’s house in Murphysboro around 6:00.

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darkening sky near Carbondale, IL

My sister’s new house is very cool, a mid-century modern house with numerous wings.  I loved her office, her decks, her many windows, her artwork and old classic books.

After getting the tour of her house, we went to neighboring Carbondale, a larger university town, home to Southern Illinois University.  We went to Fujiyama Japanese Steakhouse where we toasted each other with Sapporo beer and warm sake in the cavernous restaurant.  It wasn’t quite the cozy Japanese sushi bar we’d loved in L.A. We had edamame, gyoza and sushi: I ordered the special “Forever Love”: shrimp tempura, spicy crab, cream cheese, pink soy paper, and sweet wasabi sauce.  Then, because I hadn’t brought a hair dryer and she didn’t have one (I should have checked before I left home!), we stopped at Walmart so I could buy one, and at Kroger for some groceries.

"Forever Love" at Fujiyama Japanese Steakhouse in Carbondale, IL
“Forever Love” at Fujiyama Japanese Steakhouse in Carbondale, IL
Forever Love
Forever Love
edamame & gyoza
edamame & gyoza

My Indiana & Illinois route for today is outlined in purple below.

My Illinois route: Salem to Carbondale to Murphysboro
My Illinois route: Salem to Carbondale to Murphysboro
My Indiana route (day 2) is outlined in purple: Dale to Lincoln City to Vincennes
My Indiana route (day 2) is outlined in purple: Dale to Lincoln City to Vincennes

I did a couple of pathetic sketches today, and collected cancellation stickers and stamps for my visits to the two National Park sites.

my sketch for the day
my sketch for the day
my cancellation stamps
my cancellation stamps

*Monday, February 25, 2019*

Steps: 10,737; 4.55 miles

**********************

“ON JOURNEY” INVITATION: I invite you to write a post on your own blog about the journey itself for a recently visited specific destination. You could write about the journey you hope to take in the year ahead.  If you don’t have a blog, I invite you to write in the comments.

My intentions on this trip included picking a random theme for each day of my trip.  I had written in my journal, before leaving home, a theme for each day that would focus my attention. This day’s theme was “Leadership & Quirky Things.”  Another of my intentions was to draw a sketch in my journal.  I used a pen (a mistake!), but I tried my best to draw some of the things I noticed along the way. My drawings are still so elementary!

Include the link in the comments below by Tuesday, June 18 at 1:00 p.m. EST.  When I write my post in response to this challenge on Wednesday, June 19, I’ll include your links in that post.

This will be an ongoing invitation, once on the third Wednesday of each month. Feel free to jump in at any time. 🙂

I hope you’ll join in our community. I look forward to reading your posts!

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