Twenty twenty-three was: a year of finishing our first trip in Central America, to Nicaragua & Costa Rica. A year of long hard training to walk the Via Francigena from Lucca to Rome in Italy. A year of celebrating my father’s life, after he passed away in December of 2022. A year of marriages: Adam to Maria in Nicaragua and Alex to Jandira in Atlanta, both in May. A year of celebrating Alex’s graduation from Northern Virginia Community College with two Associate of Science degrees, one in Computer Science and one in Mathematics. A year of Alex and Jandira settling in to their new home in Atlanta. A year of becoming grandparents: to Maria’s four children, Johnny (18), Cristy, Andrea and Mia, and to Alex and Jandira’s baby, Allie (born October 5). A year of traveling to Venice and the Dolomites, Verano & Bergamo with Mike. A year of walking (& taking public transportation due to the extreme heat) the Via Francigena from Lucca to Rome with my Slovakian friend Darina (who I met on the Camino de Santiago in 2018). A year of attending my nephew Seth’s wedding in Connecticut. A year of a road trip to see Alex and Jandira’s new baby and then exploring Austin, Fredericksburg and West Texas (where we saw the annular solar eclipse) and then New Mexico. A year of visiting my sister on my way home from Albuquerque. A year when most of the family, except Adam & company, came home for Christmas. A year of 47,000 people being killed in a 7.8 magnitude earthquake in Turkey. A year of Trump being indicted for multiple crimes, including an insurrection against the U.S., yet still being allowed to run for President in 2024 (so infuriating). A year of a ruthless attack by Hamas on Israel (where about 1,200 men, women and children were killed and 240 taken hostage) and Israel’s horrifying and disproportionate retribution on Gaza (where over 27,600 civilians have been killed, including more than 11,800 children, 58,000 injured, and where 65,000 homes as well as businesses have been destroyed); the continuing raging of war in Ukraine; a year where mass shootings in the U.S. (627+) outnumbered days in the year. A year of favorite movies: Return to Seoul, Tár, You Hurt My Feelings, Past Lives, and Oppenheimer. A year of reading 56/56 books for the year (My Year in Books 2023). A year in which the Merriam-Webster word of the year was “authentic,” an adjective that means “1) not false or imitation; 2) true to one’s own personality, spirit or character.” A year in which the Oxford word of the year was “rizz,” a slang term which describes “style, charm or attractiveness; the ability to attract a romantic or sexual partner.” A year when the TIME Person of the Year was Taylor Swift. A year when the Dictionary.com Vibe of the Year was “eras: periods of time in a person’s life characterized by something distinctive and noticeable, such as a particular emotional state, relationship, achievement, or interest.” (I guess this is our “era” of becoming grandparents!)
Books read in 2023
In January, I: |*Nicaragua*| Started the new year by leaving León, Nicaragua and driving to Granada with Alex, Adam and Mike by way of the Mirador de Catarina, where we admired the Apoyo Lagoon and all the nurseries for which Catarina is famous. Explored the Centro Historico of Granada and sang “Bate, Bate, Chocolate!” while scissoring our knees at the Choco Museum. Went on a boat tour of Granada’s Isletas, seeing an old fort built to protect Granada from pirates in the 18th century, and greeting three types of monkeys: capuchinos, howler monkeys, and spider monkeys. Glimpsed Mombocho Volcano covered in clouds. Bought leather bags at Soy Nica, visited the Granada Catedral and climbed up the tower at Iglesia de La Merced for sweeping views of the city. Visited the Centro Cultural Museos de Convento San Francisco and lusted after colorful Nicaraguan paintings. Spent an afternoon swimming, imbibing, and relaxing at Posada Ecológica La Abuela at Laguna de Apoyo. Took the ferry to Ometepe Island and visited a flooded Punta Jesus María and the Emerald Rainbow Caravan Hostel – a hostel consisting of old vehicles refurbished into rooms – where Adam used to work. Enjoyed meeting Adam’s community on Ometepe and seeing the lime green house we helped him to buy. Almost choked on Coco Locos, almost got sucked down a drainage system, and succeeded in jumping off a rope swing into the pool at Ojo de Agua; the pool was fed by mineral springs from Ometepe’s volcanoes. Paddled kayaks down the Río Istian, where we saw both volcanoes, Volcán Concepción and Volcán Maderas, and where the birds became increasingly active as it neared sunset. Took the ferry back to the mainland, parted ways with Adam, and drove to San Juan del Sur after Mike almost had his license confiscated for passing another car in our rush to get Adam to the ferry on time. Enjoyed dinner and lunch at El Timon in San Juan del Sur. |*Costa Rica*| Crossed the border into Costa Rica, getting rescued from a long line by our Alamo rental car guy, Jack, because we were in our 60s and “Costa Rica is nice to people in their 60s.” Relaxed on the beach and poolside at Playa Hermosa, Costa Rica. Did four ziplines, including the Superman zip line, where I laid belly down and was torpedoed nearly a mile, at Diamante Eco Adventure Park. Dropped Alex at the Guanacaste Airport so he could return home and then went to Hotel Hacienda Guachipelin next to Parque Nacional Volcán Rincón de la Vieja. Got massages and enjoyed a sauna, mud bath and hot tub at Simbiosis Spa. Spent the next day on a “One-Day Adventure” where we rode horses, tubed down class III rapids on the Rio Negra River, and zip lined through the Rio Blanco Canyon. Visited several waterfalls near the hacienda. Hiked to the turquoise Río Celeste and its gorgeous waterfall through the rainforest at Parque Nacional Volcano Tenorio. Enjoyed a fabulous dinner and evening at Celeste Mountain Lodge. Visited Mike’s high school friend, Carol and her Costa Rican husband Carlos at their cattle ranch high above Tilarán. Drove bumpy and curvy mountain roads to Monteverde. Went on a hanging bridges tour at Monteverde Sky Adventures, where we didn’t see many critters but we learned about the primary and secondary cloud forest. Did a 2-hour night walk at El Refugio where we saw a sleeping hummingbird, two toucans, a howler monkey, a green viper and a strangler fig that had killed its host. Saw only one awake sloth at the Sloth Sanctuary at Selvatura Park; he was moving slowly on pencil thin branches. Went for a 2-mile hike at the Reserva Bosque Nuboso Santa Elena and got drenched with the continual rain. Enjoyed the fabulous museums in San José, especially the Pre-Columbian Gold Museum and the Jade Museum. Enjoyed delicious meals at Otoya Bistro and Café Rojo. |*Virginia*| Flew back to Virginia by way of Dallas, Texas and dove into the cold winter temperatures at home. Took Alex to a belated dinner at Maru Korean to celebrate his graduation from NOVA, and found out he wants to change his major and stay at NOVA one more semester to go in a different direction. Began my training for the Via Francigena by walking nearly 8 miles with a hiking group around Burke Lake and another 5.7 miles in Reston along the Glade Trail, finding cardinals and flowering skunk cabbage. Saw Living with Bill Nighy. Enjoyed seeing Alex’s girlfriend Jandira when she flew up for 3 days from Atlanta, where she has moved for work. Started the Great Courses in Italian and started doing Italian on Duolingo. Finally took down our miniature Christmas tree and decorations. Ate with Alex and Mike at the first of seven soup restaurants I’ve vowed to visit this year; I tried the Signature Luosifen at Yanzi Noodle House, and learned that the owners are from a town near where I lived in Nanning, China. Enjoyed catching up on Zoom with my friend Jayne, who is in Dubai now for 2 months. Read 4 books out of my goal of 56, with my favorites being The Solace of Leaving Early by Haven Kimmel and The Ten Loves of Nishino by Hiromi Kawakami.
In February, I: Chatted with Darina, my Camino friend from Slovakia, about walking the Via Francigena (from Lucca to Rome) together this coming July; started plotting out our walk and also planning Mike’s and my trip to Venice and the Dolomites. Increased my walking mileage from 20 miles/week to 23 miles/week. Felt annoyed that Punxsutawney Phil saw his shadow on Groundhog Day, meaning we’d have six more weeks of winter (although, as it turned out, our February was very mild). Wrote four posts on my blog about New Brunswick, Canada. Found out that Alex and Jandira are going to have a baby, due October 4; he went to Atlanta to visit her in mid-February. Ate Peruvian food at Inca Social and sushi at Ariake. Felt shocked and heartbroken by the massive earthquake in Turkey and Syria that killed at least 50,000 people. Was bored to death at a Super Bowl party that Mike and I attended (yes, I still hate sports!). Went to the second of seven soup restaurants I’ve vowed to visit this year, this time Pho 75 in Herndon (I didn’t care for it at all). Ordered new glasses at the eye doctor and went in for my annual physical. Met an old friend, Tony, who will be the financial manager for the small inheritance I received from my father. Chatted with Jayne who is currently in Dubai; she had taken a trip to Musandam in Oman and was planning another trip to Muscat. Celebrated Valentine’s Day with Mike at Seasons 52. Prayed for the Ukrainians who have endured a year of relentless attacks by megalomaniac Putin. Felt proud of President Biden for his visit to Ukraine to bolster Ukraine’s spirits. Celebrated Mike’s 69th birthday, also with Alex, at Istanbul Blue; enjoyed another birthday celebration for both Mike and Alex at home with Mike’s sister, Barbara. Read 5 books out of my goal of 56 for the year (bringing my total up to 9/56), my favorites being Valentine by Elizabeth Wetmore and Late in the Day by Tessa Hadley. Watched Licorice Pizza and enjoyed the third season of Emily in Paris.
In March, I: Finished plotting out Mike’s and my Venice/Dolomites trip, worked on Darina’s and my itinerary for the Via Francigena, and made all bookings. Finished blog posts about Prince Edward Island and most of Nicaragua. Worked on a video about my Dad’s life for his Celebration of Life (Memories of Dad 2022). Continued my walking training, increasing my distances from 24 to 28 miles/week and my pack weight from 4.5 to 6.5 pounds. Hiked at Harper’s Ferry, this time doing a 7-mile circuit on the Stone Fort Trail with 1,693 feet in elevation; after 4.5 miles, I slipped on a water-slicked rock and fell on my right knee (the one with the partial knee replacement) and hip, but luckily nothing was broken. Enjoyed my monthly Zoom call with my siblings (minus Joan). Had dinner at Artie’s with Mike and Alex. Celebrated Alex’s 32nd birthday with his girlfriend, Jandira, and his Aunt Barbara with a fondue extravaganza at The Melting Pot. Walked with a hiking group on the Long Branch Stream trail in Annandale. Picked up Sarah in Richmond and went to Yorktown for the interment of my Dad’s ashes in the family plot and for a Celebration of Life with my sister, Joan, her family and my stepmother Shirley’s family, none of whom I’d ever met before. Had dinner at the Yorktown Pub with Joan and her family, including my grand-nephews Elliott and Cooper. Went for a sleep appointment to see if I could get a mouth guard or something to help with my snoring and had to schedule an overnight sleep study for April. Talked to Adam, who informed us he is getting married to a Nicaraguan woman; later he informed us she has 4 children (one is 18 years old), which made me wonder how on earth he will support them. Watched Tár and Return to Seoul, where I revisited my year in South Korea from 2010-2011. Enjoyed sushi and sake at YamaChen’s. Went to OrthoVirginia to make sure I didn’t do any damage to my knee or hip during my Harper’s Ferry fall; it turned out just to be an arthritic flare-up. Took another leisurely walk with a walking group at Claude Moore Park in Loudoun County. Took another long walk from the WO&D bike trail to Meadowlark Botanical Gardens, where everything was in bloom. Was thrilled to read the news that a New York grand jury has indicted Trump, but I don’t have any hope he’ll serve any jail time because the rich and powerful too often get away with criminal behavior. Read 6 books out of my goal of 56 for the year (bringing my total to 15/56), my favorites being Blood of Brothers: Life and War in Nicaragua by Stephen Kinzer, Crossing to Safety by Wallace Stegner, and The Atomic Weight of Love by Elizabeth Church.
In April, I: spent April Fool’s Day with Mike looking for a liquor cabinet for our dining room and enjoyed a lunch at Puccio’s Deli in Leesburg. Hiked Cabell’s Mill and Big Rocky Run on Palm Sunday. Hiked 5 miles from Wakefield Park to Lake Accotink. Interviewed for Global Entry with Customs & Border Patrol. Spent Easter Sunday walking from Riverbend to Great Falls amidst the bluebells and went out to Lebanese Taverna for Easter dinner with Mike, Alex and Barb. Walked 29-32 miles each week in April. Watched a video of Alex proposing to Jandira when he went down to visit her in Atlanta on April 12. Endured another overnight sleep study where they found I have moderate sleep apnea; vowed never to do another sleep study! Walked with Mike on the CCT amidst the skunk cabbage while carrying an 8.2lb pack. Enjoyed Green Curry with Shrimp at Sisters in Fairfax. Went on a 10-mile bike ride to work different muscles in my knees. Walked nearly 7 miles with the Sierra Club on the Neabsco Creek boardwalk and through Leesylvania State Park. Went for a free rowing workout at RowHouse Fairfax and signed up for a monthly membership. Had a long Face Time chat with Jayne. Walked with Bel around Burke Lake. Started my rowing classes and ended up hurting my back because of poor rowing form. Had a mediocre dinner at Enatye Ethiopian. Went with Mike to SAAM to see the colorful “Experience America” exhibit and then enjoyed lunch at Poké Papa. Wished my daughter a happy 39th birthday and made plans to visit her in May. Enjoyed another dinner out at Patsy’s in Tyson’s. Walked 8.4 miles with a hiking group at too fast a pace on the Cross County Trail and started experiencing back pain after that hike combined with the rowing classes. Noshed on bibimbap at Maru Korean Cusine & Sushi with Alex and Mike. Ate dinner outside at Lake Anne Coffee Shop with Karen and Michael, while being serenaded by smooth jazz. Finished blog posts on Nicaragua and part of Costa Rica; read 5 books out of my goal of 56 for the year (bringing my total to 20/56), with my favorites being It’s What I Do: A Photographer’s Life of Love and War by Lynsey Addario, As It Is in Heaven by Niall Williams, Birds of Paradise by Diana Abu-Jaber, and A Pilgrimage to Eternity: From Canterbury to Rome in Search of a Faith by Timothy Egan; streamed movies, my favorite being Aftersun. Finished From Scratch and started watching Beef and The Diplomat.
In May, I: wrapped up my blog posts on Costa Rica; studied Italian through Duolingo; started reading about New Mexico for late October. Increased my walking distances and backpack weight as I continued training for the Via Francigena. Enjoyed my monthly Zoom call with my siblings. Pushed myself in rowing classes twice a week, did yoga once a week, and rode my bicycle once. Helped Sarah move some of her stuff into her tiny house in Richmond; enjoyed lunch with her at Liberty Public House and dinner at Alewife in a belated celebration of her 39th birthday; walked with her from Church Hill along the Canal Walk. Hurt my back whether from rowing or carrying a backpack for long distances and had to scale back my training for a week; celebrated Alex finishing his final exams and bid him adieu as he moved some of his things to Atlanta. Enjoyed having the house to myself when Mike went to his best friend’s wife’s funeral (Dianne died after many years with MS). Enjoyed a Crazy Smoked Roll at the Ariake sushi bar on my own. Celebrated from afar as Adam married Maria in Nicaragua, at which time we immediately became grandparents to three little girls, Cristy (11), Andrea (9) and Mia (6). Welcomed Jandira and Alex as they came up from Atlanta for Alex’s graduation from Northern Virginia Community College (NOVA) with two Associate of Science degrees in Computer Science and Mathematics. Had a lovely dinner at Seasons 52 with Jandira and Alex for Mother’s Day, celebrating me as a mother and Jandira as a mother-to-be; their baby is due in early October. Went with Mike, Jandira, & Barbara to Alex’s graduation ceremony at Eagle Bank Arena; threw a party at our house to celebrate Alex’s graduation with the Pearsons (Alex’s 2nd family) in attendance. Followed Alex and Jandira in their U-Haul to Atlanta, stopping overnight in Gaffney, South Carolina because anything over 8 hours of driving is pure torture. Helped Alex unload the U-Haul into their apartment since Jandira had to work. Enjoyed Lifting Noodles Ramen at PH’EAST with Jandira and Alex at the Battery at Braves Stadium. Helped Alex organize some things in their new apartment. Picked up Mike at the airport and went to Alex and Jandira’s wedding at Magistrate Court Cobb County and then celebrated with dinner at the adorable Ocean Pot Seafood Boiler. Drove back home from Atlanta with Mike in a long grueling day on the road. Enjoyed the Avett Brothers in the season opening concert at Wolf Trap with a picnic from the Italian Deli. Felt happy that after a long interview process, Sarah was offered a job as a paralegal at a law firm in Richmond. Went to Cinema Arts to see You Hurt My Feelings, and then had dinner at Genki Izakaya. Read 5 books out of my goal of 56 for the year (bringing my total to 25/56), with my favorite being Olive Kitteridge by Elizabeth Strout.
In June, I: Continued my walking and rowing workouts.Met my friend Leah at Hank’s Oyster Bar (her boyfriend had died right in front of her in some kind of seizure months before and she was trying to look forward and not dwell on her horrible loss). Walked with Mike 11.81 miles around Burke Lake and Mercer Lake from South Run, carrying 11.6lb for 7.75 miles; we celebrated with Thai food at Burapa Thai & Bar in Vienna. Got sick with an upper respiratory infection and bad cough and had to lay off my training for a week. Enjoyed another monthly Zoom call with my siblings. Voted in the Democratic Primary. Enjoyed a nice massage as I recovered from being ill. Had a nice dinner at Zenola Mediterranean Restaurant and then went to see SOJA / Protoje / Jessie Royal at Wolf Trap; SOJA, a group of guys from our area in Arlington, Virginia who do a smooth type of reggae, was the headliner. Had my hair straightened in preparation for 6 weeks of travel. Saw the Korean movie Past Lives at Angelika, during which I had a nice cry. Watched Love & Gelato (a rather silly movie) while I sewed my Camino de Santiago and Northern Virginia Hiking Club patches on my backpack. |*Venice, Italy*| Left for Italy on June 16, arriving in Venice on Saturday the 17th. Enjoyed a Prosecco and a meat, cheese and vegetable platter at Enoteca Al Prosecco in Venice and then napped on our first day, later going out to explore the Cannaregio neighborhood. Strolled through the labyrinth of pedestrian streets and canals of Venice to the Rialto Bridge and the Grand Canal, bought some marbled paper earrings, walked across sthe Ponte dell’Accademia and then visited the Peggy Guggenheim Collection to peruse the fabulous collection of modern art and Edmondo Bacci: Energy and Light. Mixed my patterned knit dress with a floral Venetian scarf and felt like Rosealba in my favorite Italian movie, Bread & Tulips. We laughed when I noted that it was Father’s Day, yet I’d bought so much for myself; I insisted it had to make him happy to see me so stylish! Enjoyed a fabulous dinner at Birraria La Corte; best was the appetizer of burrata, zucchini with flowers, and pumpkin seeds. Eavesdropped on a bachelorette party of young women sitting behind us, complete with games and a tart with sparklers. Took the stifling vaporetto to Murano (where I bought Murano glass earrings) on Monday, and then another miserable vaporetto ride to Burano, famous for its colorful houses. Baked and sweated after being herded onto another vaporetto back to Venice for 40-50 minutes; I felt sick all over again and crashed in the apartment as Mike made a colorful version of Cacio e Pepe for dinner. Took the Vaporetto Line 1 on Tuesday from our Santa Croce neighborhood to St. Mark’s Square, sitting outdoors in the bow of the boat and seeing all the famous landmarks. Spent only a half hour at the crowded St. Mark’s Square, seeing the Doge’s Palace, St. Mark’s Basilica, and The Bridge of Sighs, without going into a single building. Climbed the Scala Contarini del Bovolo, where a woman posed as if she were Rapunzel, without the long hair. Enjoyed dinner along a canal at Osteria ae Saracche and then took a half-hour gondola ride with Christian. |*Dolomites, Italy*| Left Venice Wednesday to go to Marco Polo Airport, where we picked up our rental car, a VW T-ROC and headed for the Dolomites. Walked around Lago di Misurina on our way to Dobbacio, awestruck by the jagged Dolomites all around us. Hiked the 10-11km hike on the Tre Cime di Lavaredo Circuit Trail, where the descents presented me with a real challenge but the views were magnificent. Walked around Lago di Braies on a cool overcast morning, where we found beaches with cairns, cows with cowbells and beautiful views all around. Explored the towns of Brunico and Innichen/San Candido near the Austrian border. Visited Cortina d’Ampezzo (“The Pearl of the Dolomites”) and then did a circuit hike at Cinque Torri dotted with trenches and bunkers in its open air WWI museum. Stayed in an adorable farmhouse apartment in Signato on the Renon plateau. Discovered my new favorite drink, the Hugo (Proscecco, lime and special juice), at Gasthaus Babsi in Oberbozen/Soprabolzano. Hiked the Panorama Trail and the Sunny-side Trail in Val di Funes with bucolic views of the Santa Maddalena Church sitting prettily in the countryside. Explored the town of Bolzano and then the Renon Plateau. Hiked the Alpe di Siusi in South Tyrol, the largest high alpine pasture in Europe. Drove on the Alto Adige Wine Road and stopped at Tiefenbrunner Winery, enjoying a charcuterie board and wine, on our way to Verona. |*Verona, Italy*| Met a nice Italian couple at Bistro Con Amore in Verona, Lorenzo and Cosette; in a mixture of Italian and English, we talked about where they were from and our travel plans. Visited the Verona Arena, a 30 AD amphitheater where later that night we saw (most of) the opera Aida, quite a modern-day extravaganza. Dropped into the crowded and overrated Casa di Giulietta (Juliet’s house), climbed the Torre dei Lamberti for views over Verona and the countryside, visited the city’s modern art museum, and finally dropped into the Basilica di Sant’Anastasia. After our late opera night, we went on Friday morning, our last day in Verona, to visit Chiesa di San Fermo, stopped in a cafe for a long while to get out of the rain, crossed the Ponte Pietra at the northern end of the city, and finally dropped into the Duomo, Verona’s 12th C Romanesque cathedral which was extravagantly frescoed in the 16th-17th centuries. Read 4 books out of my goal of 56 for the year (bringing my total to 29/56), with my favorite being The Venice Sketchbook by Rhys Bowen.
In July, I: |*Bergamo & The Lakes, Italy*| Left Verona for Bergamo, stopping in a few towns on the shores of Lake Garda. Drove to Lago d’Iseo, where we took a ferry to Monte Isola and rode bicycles around the island. Took the funicular to Bergamo’s Cittá Alta, where we visited the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, the Duomo and enjoyed Bergamo’s famous pastry, “polenta e osei,” and pizzas at Il Fornaio. Perused the fabulous fine art at the Accademia Carrara in the lower town of Bergamo. |*Lucca & the Via Francigena, Italy*| Drove from Bergamo to Lucca where we settled in to wait for my friend Darina to arrive via Pisa from Slovakia. Sat at a café and watched while crews set up for that night’s concert by Billy Idol & Generation Sex, part of Lucca’s famous music festival. Met some Italian groupies of Billy Idol, who serenaded us with “White Wedding”; they had been to over 40 Billy Idol concerts in their lives. Picked up our pilgrim passports at the Lucca Cathedral Museum. Greeted Darina when she arrived from Pisa; she was bearing a gift from Slovakia, Tatratea (a tea liqueur with 52% alcohol content!). Rode bicycles around Lucca’s city walls. Said goodbye to Mike as he flew home from Pisa. Took two trains and an expensive taxi with Darina, skipping the first two stages of the Via Francigena, to Ponte a Cappiano, where we stayed in a pilgrim hostel inside of a bridge. Walked our first day along a brackish canal through wet grass to Fucecchio, where Darina put her wet shoes in the sun to dry. Took my eyes off the wet shoes for a few minutes, just long enough for a street sweeper to sweep them into a street sweeping machine; the two men refused to admit they had the shoes in the machine, but later Darina watched one of them on a pharmacy’s camera as he vigorously swept the shoes into the whirling brushes of the machine. Admired Darina’s “let-bygones-be-bygones” attitude about her lost shoes as she simply decided to walk the entire walk in her Tevas. Climbed uphill in extreme heat toward the looming hilltop town of San Miniato, only to be surprised to find an elevator that whisked us easily to the top of the town. Enjoyed Aperol Spritzes and a white truffle dish, and then visited the Duomo of Sant’ Assunta before taking an expensive taxi to a bus stop and then two buses to Gambassi Termi (again skipping an early stage of 26 km with no services). Stayed at a lovely pilgrim hostel, Ostello Sigerico, and enjoyed dinner with a group of pilgrims; this would be one of the few times we’d meet other pilgrims on our walk. Found a breast-feeding Virgin Mary fresco at a Sanctuary in Pancole. Relaxed after a long steep climb to a peak at Monastero di Bose, soaking up a cooling breeze before the long hot slog into San Gimignano with its 15 towers. Immersed myself in an amazing series of frescoes telling the entire Biblical story at the Duomo. Stayed at a monastery in Col di Val d’Elsa where I met Celeste from Angola, a nun who spoke Portuguese; I told her of my new daughter-in-law Jandira, who is also from Angola. Learned all about Collodi, the author of Pinocchio, in Colle di Val d’Elsa. Walked along the turquoise pools of the river Elsa and later in the hottest sun imaginable on a road between stone walls to the Abbadia d’Isola. Plodded along in the hot sun across a field toward Monteriggioni while Darina stopped under a tree and returned to the abbey; she just couldn’t walk anymore in the hot sun. Continued on to the lower town of Monteriggioni where I was told it was impossible to have a taxi pick up Darina from the abbey as taxis only drove from there to Siena. Felt gratitude for a young American guy, Declin, who volunteered to pick up Darina himself. Couldn’t muster the energy to walk 6km more to our Agricola, so we waited until 4:00 for the owner’s brother Alessandro to pick us up. Was basically “imprisoned” in a room full of junk at the Agricola, as the owner delivered us pizza and didn’t have any common area outside the room for us to sit. Spent two days in Siena, nursing a blister that I accidentally deroofed, hobbling around the Duomo, learning about St. Catherine of Siena, and enjoying Hugos with pears at the steep restaurant Zest. Enjoyed beautiful views of Tuscan cypress trees and met pilgrims Levona & William as we walked into Monteroni d’Arbia. Enjoyed beautiful sunflowers and great views until it got too hot; sought shade under a farmer’s storage shed and then suffered in extreme heat on our way over steep hills to Buonconvento. Walked in fog amidst vineyards and then suffered in intense heat on the way to San Quirico d’Orcia, where I arrived to find my bag hadn’t arrived and I couldn’t shower or change; felt ready to give up on the entire walk! Enjoyed a brief stop in the adorable hot spring town of Bagno Vignoni, where I tossed as many of my belongings as possible in the nearest trash can to lighten my load, including my night-time outfit, raincoat, knee brace and headlamp. Endured a miserable walk into Gallina with no shade in relentless sun and decided then I was going to take a taxi to skip the next two stages. Crossed over into Lazio, leaving Tuscany behind, and spent two nights in Acquapendente, where I had a lovely room with air conditioning and had one of my best meals ever at Bottega Maius L’Enoteca. Took a bus for half a stage and walked the other half to Bolsena where I had to walk on a busy road uphill way off the path to Agriturismo Riserva Montebello; I had to ask someone to pick up Darina in Bolsena since she had an allergic reaction or sun poisoning on her neck and was told by a doctor to stay out of the sun for two days. Learned of a miracle at the Church of Santa Cristina in Bolsena that led to the creation of the Feast of Corpus Christi. Cooled off in the catacombs of Saint Cristina, sat at a lakeside café, then took a bus to Montefiascone. Almost abandoned the entire walk in utter frustration when my backpack, sent through Bags-Free for a steep 30 euros, didn’t arrive until 5:00, which meant I couldn’t shower or change after our long hot walk. Saw great views of Lake Bolsena from Rocca dei Papi Park and ate another delectable truffle dish at Momma Poppa. Visited the Palazzo di Papi at Viterbo, and then enjoyed wine and calamari in the second largest city of our walk (after Lucca). Walked in the dark through the Etruscan Vie Cave (“excavated roads”); the path after that section was so miserable I vowed to never walk another step on the Via Francigena. Enjoyed a nice apartment with a bathtub in Vetralla. Took a bus to Capranica after deciding to officially become a PTP (Public Transportation Pilgrim). Stayed in Casa Zi’Pepe, one of the most perfectly outfitted apartments for pilgrims on our whole trip. Met Laura and Mike, two pilgrims from Towson, Maryland, in Monterosi; Laura had passed out on the path and had to be given an IV and hauled to the hospital by ambulance due to the extreme heat before Torrenieri (on the stage to San Quirico d’Orcia). Took a bus to Campagnano di Roma where, at the furthest end of town, we stayed in the tiniest place imaginable, Hostel Gheltrude, where we baked all afternoon. Walked carrying my pack to Formello since the temperature dropped and the distance was only 9km. Enjoyed the quiet and serene Santuario del Sorbo, where I got to rest for a long time while Darina prayed the rosary. Stayed again at the furthest end of town in a beautiful house with air conditioning that was sadly not fitted with pilgrim amenities. Took my last bus to La Giustiniana, a trashy suburb of Rome, where we stayed in the nice Resort La Rochhetta. |*Rome, Italy*| Walked into Rome with Darina, sending my pack ahead with Bags-Free as they were due to deliver my suitcase as well (They’d stored it in Rome since I left Lucca) to the Beehive Hostel. Caught our first sight of St. Peter’s Basilica from the trash-strewn Monte Mario Park. Walked down a series of switchbacks toward Rome when suddenly we found the path totally blocked near the bottom, causing us to have to slide down a steep hill to the switchback below. Arrived finally at St. Peter’s Square where we celebrated finishing this challenging walk and explored the Basilica after getting our Testimoniums. Checked in at the Beehive in Rome, where my suitcase and backpack had happily arrived, showered and went out to dinner to celebrate at the family-owned Trattoria dell’Omo. Slept in on my last day in Rome while Darina did touristy things. Lounged, wrote in my journal, shopped, ate Korean food, and visited Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore. Enjoyed one last dinner with Darina before I took off the next morning for the airport, arriving home at 3:00 p.m. on July 30 after a very challenging July!
In August, I: Settled back in at home after my six-week trip to Italy. Enjoyed my monthly sibling Zoom call. Got back into my walking and yoga groove and had a pedicure to make my beaten-up feet look halfway presentable. Enjoyed the movie Shortcomings at Cinema Arts and had Indian food at Curry Mantra. Enjoyed our first taste of Darina’s Tatratea gift on our screened porch. Welcomed Alex and Jandira home for a week-long visit. Visited the farmer’s market with the newlyweds. Felt upset and shaken that Alex had a car accident, damaging his car but luckily not hurting himself or his friend Nick; felt thankful Jandira wasn’t in the car. Took Alex’s car to a shop to make sure it was drivable to Atlanta, without fixing the body damage. Went to dinner at Arties with Mike, Jandira & Alex and then played Codenames after. Enjoyed Alex and Jandira’s baby shower with lots of generous guests and family members (my sister Joan and my daughter Sarah came from long distances). Handed over my 10-year-old Toyota Corolla to Alex and Jandira to drive home to Atlanta. Got a quote to fix the body of Alex’s car and found it would be $5,000 because he didn’t have collision insurance; we debated whether it was worth fixing. Enjoyed a concert at Wolf Trap, listening and dancing to Juanes, a fabulous 51-year-old Colombian singer. Went car shopping with Mike to replace my Corolla and came home with a cute brand new Ford Bronco Heritage. Celebrated my new car with a dinner at Kob Kun Thai. Welcomed Alex back home as he flew up from Atlanta to drive his damaged Mazda down to Atlanta so they would have two cars. Started up my rowing classes again. Enjoyed sushi at Ariake. Went to see Oppenheimer, a fabulous movie. Finished watching the TV series Beef, with an ending that surprised us. Read 7 books out of my goal of 56 for the year (bringing my total to 36/56), with my favorites being The Last Romantics by Tara Conklin, Eternal by Lisa Scottoline, and The Shoemaker’s Wife by Adriana Trigiani.
In September, I: Walked, did yoga, rowing and weight-lifting at the gym in my never-ending pursuit of weight loss. Enjoyed dirty martinis on our deck on a cool evening. Got a COVID booster (#6 shot) and a flu shot. Celebrated my sister-in-law’s birthday at Pisco y Nazca, a new Peruvian Gastrobar. Finished the bookings for our October trip to Atlanta, Texas and New Mexico. Took the Acela Amtrak to New Haven Connecticut for my nephew Seth’s wedding festivities; he married Allie, whose family is from that area. Imbibed in cocktails and loud conversation at a Guilford Mooring cocktail party. Walked around the campus of Yale University, ate a lobster roll at Seven Seas in Milford, and enjoyed ice cream at Ashley’s Ice Cream in Guilford. Celebrated the beautiful wedding of Seth and Allie at Owenego Inn and Beach Club in Branford. Joined Weight Watchers on the train back home. Enjoyed Thai food at Sisters Thai. Finally finished watching the old TV series, Six Feet Under (since I’d never seen the last two seasons, we started from the beginning), loving the last scene of the series finale. Streamed the movies No Hard Feelings and Love at First Sight, and saw My Sailor My Love at Cinema Arts Theatre, topping off the evening with sushi from Yama Chen. Wrapped up watching the series finales of Doc Martin and Breeders. Finished 6 books out of my goal of 56 for the year (bringing my total to 42/56), my favorite being The Lake of Dreams by Kim Edwards.
In October, I: |*Atlanta, Georgia*| Drove with Mike down to Atlanta, stopping in Greenville, South Carolina, where we strolled around Falls Park on the Reedy. Stayed in an Airbnb near Marietta Square in Atlanta for 9 nights, while we waited for our new granddaughter to come into this world. Had tacos at Taqueria Tsunami with the expectant parents. Took many morning walks around Marietta since Mike was working remotely the whole time we were in Atlanta. Visited Kennesaw Mountain National Battlefield Park and learned of the last battle of the Civil War before Sherman marched to Atlanta and burned it down. Welcomed little Alexandra Olivia (Allie) into the world on Thursday morning, October 5 at 7:38 a.m. (She was a healthy 7 lb 15 oz and 21 ½ inches long). Had dinner with Mike C. and his friend Nancy at Ray’s on the River. Visited the Atlanta History Center, where we admired the huge late-19th-century “Cyclorama,” depicting the Civil War battle fought July 22, 1864. Took pizza to the new little family once they were released from the hospital and played Code Names while taking turns holding Allie. Visited World of Coca Cola, and learned how “the company imagery has tried to capture the lifestyles of the day while reminding us that Coke is a natural companion to good times.” Visited the Martin Luther King, Jr. National Historical Park and Birth Home where we learned of Martin’s shenanigans and his maternal grandparents. Paid our respects at the tombs of Dr. and Mrs. Martin Luther King, Jr. at the Reflecting Pool at the King Center. Climbed to the top of Kennesaw Mountain, with Mike, for views of Atlanta. Went with the new parents and little Allie in her stroller to Marietta Square Market for Allie’s first night on the town. Accompanied Jandira to her post natal and new baby doctor visits. Enjoyed tapas with Mike at Silla de Toro in Marietta Square. Took take-out sushi to Alex and Jandira’s house and played Ticket to Ride and took turns oohing and aahing over Allie. Stopped at the convenience store of all convenience stores, Buc’ee’s, and at Vicksburg National Military Park on our way to Shreveport, Louisiana. |*Texas*| Took a pontoon boat ride on Caddo Lake, Texas, admiring the bayou atmosphere with its bald cypress trees, Spanish moss, water lilies, and water hyacinths. Spent a fun time perusing the Jefferson General Store where we bought foodstuffs and other items on our way to Austin. Visited the Lyndon Baines Johnson Presidential Museum & Library in Austin and learned all about LBJ and Lady Bird and all the positive contributions the president made to our society. Stopped, after eating Kimchi fries at Chi’lantro, at the Texas State Capitol, the 6th tallest state capitol in the country. Visited the colorful Mexic-Arte Museum with its many exhibits on Día de Los Muertos (Day of the Dead). Enjoyed strolling around South Congress Avenue, dropping into the funky shops and eating dinner at Magnolia Café. Drove through the LBJ Ranch and then hung out in Luckenbach, where we watched the annular solar eclipse and immersed ourselves in hundreds of slivers of sunlight. Listened to the fabulous music of ShAnnie and sampled wine at Texas Heritage Vineyard. Wandered Main Street in Fredericksburg, where we shopped and ate dinner at Ausländer Biergarten. Hiked to the summit of Enchanted Rock State Natural Area north of Fredericksburg. Spent three nights at Chisos Mountains Lodge in Big Bend National Park, where we hiked the Window Trail and the Santa Elena Canyon Trail and dipped into the hot springs of the Rio Grande. Checked out the ghost town of Terlingua and its cemetery. Stopped in Marfa and at Prada Marfa, both rather disappointing. |*New Mexico*| Took some short walks at Guadalupe Mountains National Park and then to Carlsbad Caverns National Park, where we descended over a mile and wandered deep inside the earth through The Big Room (4,000 feet long). Watched several hundred thousand bats swirl out of the cave entrance at dusk for their nightly feeding. Stopped in the cute mountain town of Cloudcroft on our way to White Sands National Park, where we were nearly blinded by the white sand dunes made of gypsum crystals. Stopped at the cute town of Ruidoso on our way to Santa Fe, where we did some more shopping. J Moved into a beautiful Airbnb in Santa Fe. Visited Pecos National Historical Park and Los Alamos, where the first nuclear bomb was made. Stopped at Bandelier National Monument, once home to the Ancestral Pueblo people. Enjoyed the huge art collection, nearly 600 art works valued at over $5 million, at the New Mexico Capitol (The Roundhouse). Visited the oldest church, the oldest house, and the staircase built by a mysterious carpenter at the Loretto Chapel. Saw the Cathedral Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi, built by Archbishop Jean Baptiste Lamy (the subject of Willa Cather’s novel Death Comes for the Archbishop) in the late 19th century. Visited the New Mexico Museum of Art with its gorgeous adobe building and quintessentially New Mexican art collection. Took a fabulous tour of Georgia O’Keeffe’s home in Abiquiu, ate delicious chile cheeseburgers at Bode’s, and then went to Ghost Ranch (O’Keeffe’s summer home). Visited the San Francisco Asis Church in Taos and then drove across the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge, stopping to visit the Earthships while there. Went on my birthday to Taos Pueblo, which reminded me of Omani ruins, and the oft-photographed San Geronimo Church. Did more shopping at Taos Plaza. Celebrated my 68th birthday at the Love Apple in Taos. Visited the beautiful El Santuario de Chimayó on our way to Albuquerque. Explored old Route 66 signs, took the Sandia Peak Tramway to the top of Sandia Peak and hiked along the ridge trail. Visited the ebullient Tinker Town Museum, with its multitudes of tiny mechanized dioramas. Wandered around Albuquerque Old Town and the Albuquerque Museum, with its excellent Georgia O’Keeffe exhibit. |*Illinois*| Said goodbye to Mike as he flew home while I set out to drive from Albuquerque to Oklahoma City to Murphysboro, IL over two days. Stayed two nights with my sister there and enjoyed a Thai meal out with her before driving two more days to get home. Finished 2 books out of my goal of 56 for the year (bringing my total to 44/56), my favorites being Death Comes for the Archbishop by Willa Cather and Did You Ever Have a Family by Bill Clegg.
In November, I: Left my sister Stephanie’s house and drove from Murphysboro, IL to Abingdon, VA and then home in two days. Went to Kalypso’s for lunch with Mike on a lovely fall day. Worried about my brother who was admitted to the hospital after having lost his eyesight; luckily he was released after they sorted out his medications. Went on an outing with Mike in my new Ford Bronco to drive the gravel roads of Loudoun County. Had lunch at Puccio’s New York Deli, stopped at Hiddencroft Vineyards, where we drank wine out by the fire pit, and then Corcoran Vineyards & Cider where we shared Pumpkin Pie, Apple Pie and Peach Cobbler ciders. Went out for sushi and ramen at Ariake to celebrate our 35th (28th) anniversary. Had a lovely dinner out at Bollywood Bistro. Enjoyed a nice long chat with my friend Jayne in Jersey. Had a lovely but small Thanksgiving with Mike’s sister Barbara. Spent Thanksgiving Day, after eating a huge feast, playing Ticket to Ride. Talked to all three of my adult children by FaceTime and got to see little Allie with her chubby cheeks. Met my friend Leah at Mon Ami Gabi in Reston for drinks and brunch and then drove her to my house to meet Mike, where we had more mimosas. Read 6 books out of my goal of 56 for the year (bringing my total to 50/56), with my favorites being The Removes by Tatjana Soli and The Four Winds by Kristin Hannah. Finished watching the series Deadwind and A French Village. Started watching new seasons of Curb Your Enthusiasm, The Crown, and The Morning Show. Enjoyed watching the limited series Becoming Frida and started Lessons in Chemistry.
In December, I: Continued my rowing classes, yoga and walking. FaceTimed Adam in Nicaragua to wish him a happy 31st birthday. Went to Merrifield Garden Center with Mike in hopes of finally transitioning to an artificial Christmas tree but were shocked at the prices ($500-1000!) for scrawny-looking trees. Ended up buying a live tree as we always have, still at an outrageous price (prices for trees have doubled in two years!). Wandered through the Herndon Winter Markt, had tacos at bartaco, and strolled around Reston Town Center to see the Christmas tree, lights and ice skaters. Met Poonam for lunch at Amma in Vienna, VA. Ventured to Luckett’s, where I bought a whole forest and deer display for my mantel, and decorated the tree while listening to Christmas carols and imbibing in spiked egg nog. Had dinner at Enatye Ethiopian and then wandered around the new Barnes & Noble in Reston. Welcomed Alex, Jandira and Allie when they drove up from Atlanta for the holiday, and then picked up Sarah at the train station as she came from Virginia Beach. Walked with Alex and Allie on the gravel trail in the neighborhood and topped off our day with pizza and chocolate cherry martinis. Took a walk with the whole family around Lake Anne on Christmas Eve. Enjoyed a lovely Christmas Day, with little Allie having the best Christmas ever without even realizing it. Read 6 books out of my goal of 56 for the year (bringing my total to 56/56), some 17,368 pages, with my favorites being The Painter by Peter Heller and That Summer’s Trance by J.R. Salamanca. Enjoyed watching the movie Fallen Leaves (Kuolleet lehdet) at Cinema Arts Theatre. Planned an evening at Inca Social for New Year’s Eve, but we certainly wouldn’t stay up until midnight to welcome in the New Year!
Here are some of my previous years’ recap posts. I now wish I had one for every year of my life, as they serve as great reminders of my adventures, joys, challenges, and tribulations in years past!
- twenty twenty-two: a year of north-south travel, a tragic war in ukraine, & final passings
- twenty twenty-one: from insurrection to omicron
- twenty-twenty: the year of coronavirus
- twenty-nineteen: morocco, central italy, a road trip to nowhere, & charleston
- twenty-eighteen: the four corners, niagara falls & the camino de santiago
- twenty-seventeen
- twenty-sixteen
- twenty-fifteen: around & about china, myanmar, & california
- twenty-fourteen
- twenty-thirteen
- weekly photo challenge: my 2012 in pictures
Here’s wishing everyone a Happy New Year in 2024! 
and cappuccino. We were so happy because we were only 35 minutes from Albergo Bernini, where we would stay for 2 nights.
I was able to see both her skull and thumb on display.
stuffed with spinach and ricotta, topped with olive oil and cherry tomatoes. The waiter was super friendly and made a production of shaking out Darina’s napkin and placing it with a flourish on her lap; Darina was surprised by the theatrics as it is not a Slovakian custom to put a napkin on one’s lap. Darina enjoyed a mushroom and truffle risotto – with her napkin on her lap!
sauce. She had been seeing stuffed wild boar heads in souvenir shops all over Siena and felt the boar was calling her name. It was very pleasant sitting at these strange tables on the super sloped street with views of the Duomo before us.
~ wander.essence ~ 
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