As we got comfortable on our United Flight flight #65 leaving at 10:15 a.m. from Lisbon, Portugal on Tuesday, November 6, 2018, we were told by the pilot that our plane didn’t have the capacity to carry all passengers plus enough fuel to get us to Newark, New Jersey due to stronger than expected headwinds. Our flight was scheduled nonstop to Newark, arriving at 1:50 p.m. As there are always headwinds flying west, and as the airline knew the plane was fully booked, we wondered why they had put us on this particular plane which was unable to get us to our destination!
We were scheduled to take a flight from Newark at 5:10 p.m., arriving at Washington-Dulles at 6:35 p.m. that same day.
Airline officials started going up and down the aisles telling various people they had to get off the flight. It turned out these people were standby flyers. Requiring them to disembark also meant that all luggage had to be taken off the plane and sorted through, in order to remove the luggage of the standby passengers. This took a good hour or more. We were quite worried when it became clear that our safe arrival in Newark could only be guaranteed by a few people disembarking. That seemed a slim margin of error!
After all this was done, the pilot got back on the loudspeaker and told us that removing all the passengers and their luggage still didn’t reduce the plane’s weight enough to make it to Newark. Thus they would have to find an airport that would allow the plane to make a fuel stop. After quite some time, they announced that Gander International Airport, located in Gander, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada, would allow the plane to land there for a fuel stop. That meant the pilot had to file a new flight plan, and since the computers were at that point not operational, we would have to wait a while for the computers to work again.
During this time, all the standby passengers were loaded back on to the plane along with their luggage.
By the time we left Lisbon, it was three hours after the flight was due to take off, about 1:15. We then flew to Gander without incident, arriving around 3:30 p.m., equivalent to 5:00 p.m. Eastern Standard Time. Our plane from Newark to Washington would be leaving in about 10 minutes, and we were up in the hinterlands of Canada!

Gander International Airport
As soon as we taxied into the Gander Airport our flight captain announced the good news that we had landed in Gander safely and would fill up with fuel. The bad news, however, was that the flight crew’s allowed hours had timed out because they’d been sitting on the ground so long in Lisbon; thus, they were no longer able to fly. We would have to wait at Gander until a new flight crew was flown in from New Jersey!

our stranded United plane at Gander International Airport
It didn’t become clear to us until we settled in that we’d be stuck in the middle of nowhere for the long haul. It turned out we would be at Gander for five hours. This small airport had no other air traffic while we were there, and when we arrived no concessions were open. Saving the day, the airport officials called the local workers in to open the cafeteria; food choices were limited but at least we could have some food and drink. We indulged in cold hamburgers and the famous Canadian dish, poutine: French fries and cheese curds topped with gravy.

>> Washington to Lisbon / >> Lisbon to Gander to Newark to Washington – as shown on my polarsteps app
Gander may be in the middle of nowhere, but it is known for its hospitality. On September 11, 2001, with United States airspace closed because of the terrorist attacks, Gander International hosted 38 airliners, totaling 6,122 passengers and 473 crew, as part of Operation Yellow Ribbon, which was organized by Canada to handle the diversion of civilian airline flights on 9/11. Canada’s goal was to ensure that potentially destructive air traffic be removed from United States airspace as quickly as possible, and away from potential U.S. targets, and instead place these aircraft on the ground in Canada, at military and civilian airports in the Canadian provinces of Nova Scotia, Newfoundland and Labrador, and British Columbia. None of the aircraft proved to be a threat, and Canada and Canadians hosted thousands of passengers stranded in Canada until U.S. airspace was reopened.
Gander International received more flights than any other Canadian airport involved in the operation apart from Halifax.

inside Gander International Airport
There was little to no wi-fi in the airport during our stay. Meal tickets were issued by the airline but only AFTER we’d already eaten, and no refunds for previously purchased food were issued. It was a long and excruciatingly boring wait, and there was nothing to do but wait. No flights came into or left Gander while we were there and thus we couldn’t book another flight. There were no options for escape.

waiting and waiting at Gander
We finally boarded our plane at 8:30 p.m. (7:00 p.m) EST, and landed in Newark at close to 11 p.m.
When it became evident that we would not make the last flight to Washington out of Newark, we decided we’d better take our fates into our own hands. As soon as we got off the plane, we headed straight for car rentals, and rented a car to drive home. By the time we started driving, it was close to midnight. We had been awake for about 24 hours at this point and were exhausted and irritable, but we had to drive another five hours to get home. Luckily at that time of night there was no traffic.
We finally collapsed in our beds at 5 a.m. on Wednesday morning, November 7. My Camino and Portugal trip came to a difficult and painful end, but it was all worthwhile. Mike rested for a couple of hours and went to work by noon. It took him a whole week to recover. We calculated we were either traveling in cabs, planes or cars, or waiting in airports for 28 hours straight.
As for Portugal…
I was less excited about my time in Portugal than I was when I went in 2013. First, the weather was not optimal. It was often cold and rainy in late October / early November. We had beautiful weather in Braga and our first day in Porto; otherwise it was mostly rainy, gloomy or cold. Mike enjoyed himself everywhere other than Sintra, as it was his first time to Portugal and he had nothing else to compare it to.
My favorite parts of Portugal on this trip were: Braga, Guimarães, Amarante (except for the gloom), Óbidos and Peniche.
My favorite place in 2013, Sintra, was a real letdown because of heavy fog and huge crowds. Lisbon was cold, windy and cloudy, and there was really nothing new for me to see. I don’t feel a need to ever return there.

Camino and Portugal as shown on my polarsteps app
Here are posts that I wrote following my creative intentions:
- on journey: launching my camino
- braga, portugal: immersion
- guimarães, portugal: occupation
- porto, portugal: everywhere all at once
- amarante, portugal: the village of love
- portugal: aveiro & costa nova
- portugal: the charming óbidos
- the dramatic coast of peniche, portugal
- portugal: a foggy & crowded sintra
- portuguese laundry
- portugal’s gritty street art
- portuguese ceilings
- decay & ruin in portugal
- poetic journeys: óbidos stroll
- portugal: cabo da roca to lisbon
- lisbon: around & about bairro alto & alfama
- portuguese azulejos
- hopping on & hopping off through lisbon
I still have several more posts to write, including another list poem and a poem weaving together six things I encountered in my travels. I have a couple more photo essays to compose: black & white photos, local people, boats & the sea, and colors & stripes, food, and enticing signs and shops.
If I ever do return to Portugal, I would go to the Algarve and the beaches, taking my cues from Jo of restlessjo.
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“ON RETURNING HOME” INVITATION: I invite you to write a post on your own blog about returning home from one particular destination or, alternately, from a long journey encompassing many stops. How do you linger over your wanderings and create something from them? How have you changed? Did the place live up to its hype, or was it disappointing? Feel free to address any aspect of your journey and how it influences you upon your return. If you don’t have a blog, I invite you to write in the comments.
For some ideas on this, you can check out the original post about this subject: on returning home.
Include the link in the comments below by Sunday, December 1 at 1:00 p.m. EST. When I write my post in response to this challenge on Monday, December 2, I’ll include your links in that post.
This will be an ongoing invitation on the first Monday of each month. Feel free to jump in at any time.
The Algarve, yes ok, but the Alentejo and the border area – OH YES! And you should visit Tomar
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I’ve been to the Alentejo (Evora) but not to areas surrounding it or to Tomar. Well, Candy, maybe I will have to explore further. But there are so many places I want to visit before returning to Portugal. I may be much older by then! 🙂
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That flight was a nightmare and one example of why flying no longer appeals to me. I think weather definitely affects the mood of a place. The Algarve in early spring would be my choice in returning to Portugal. Not to mention a certain lovely lady.
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I think that was the worst flight experience I’ve ever had, Jude, and it’s one reason why I am focusing more these days on road trips in the U.S. or other North American destinations where I can just hop in the car and drive. I have so much more control over my destiny in a car! I do agree that weather affects the mood; I’m in search of the perfect seasons to travel to particular destinations. I hate summer always unless I can go south of the equator, which I’m hoping to do next summer, to Ecuador (I’ve never yet been to South America). As you know, I’ve been to the Algarve before and have visited Jo, which was lovely. But now I want to go many new places and don’t plan to return to places I’ve already been for quite some time! 🙂
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A lot of South America seems quite dangerous at the moment, but I know you’ll do your research 😊
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I plan to focus on Ecuador next year; I knew they just had some civil strife there recently but it seems to have been resolved. We’ll see. I’ll play it by ear, but I really want to make my first trip down there next year if at all possible. 🙂
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What an utter nightmare, Cathy!
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How right you are, Sue. It was an absolute nightmare! Ugh. I hope to never repeat an experience like that again. 😦
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I guess I’ve read about the end of the pilgrimage while still reading about the pilgrimage (in the Sunday posts). Which is fine–I often get into a series of books in the middle and then go one way or the other to catch up. Speaking of books, I read the Gander narrative a few months ago. I’m glad you were recipient of some local hospitality. Especially since the airline seems to have gone out of its way to be incompetent. Thank goodness, you made it home at last and could sleep. I appreciate your stalwart traveling constitution, even though I’m sure there are times you do not feel it.
Oh, I’m into a trip now, though it’s not exotic. I’m in North Carolina, house-sitting and dog-sitting for my sister and her family, all of whom have met up in Hawaii. This means I’ll have a going-home experience, although I doubt it will be something literally to write about. Knock on wood, I’d rather not have something terrible occur.
(upside-down exclamation mark)Bienvenidos a su casa y su vida en los Estados Unidos! (Sorry, don’t know Portuguese.)
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Yes, in a way you have read about the end of the pilgrimage, but here I’m focusing mostly on Portugal and just that horrid trip back. I’ll be doing another post in December to sum up the Camino after I’ve written about all the days. I’ll be doing some ruminating about the whole experience. 🙂
Interesting that you read the Gander narrative; they were very hospitable to Americans on 9/11. And how right you are, United definitely went out of its way to be incompetent! We got a credit to use on future flights but it wasn’t much, $100 or 200; Mike’s used his but I need to use mine soon before it expires! I did not feel at all like I had a stalwart traveling constitution on this trip, although I was pretty proud of myself for walking across Spain. 🙂
So which part of North Carolina are you in? That’s nice you’re house and dog sitting for your sister while she’s having a tropical holiday. Where is your home? I know you used to be in Louisville, but where do you call home now? Thanks for the Spanish greeting. I don’t know Portuguese either, and not even much Spanish. I hope to learn more next year if I can put together a trip to Ecuador. 🙂
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Come on down! But you know weather is weather and we have no control over it. Even here the sun doesn’t always shine but it does colour your outlook on a new place. Sorry it was a horrible journey. Mick plays cards in that kind of scenario. Me? Kick the cat! 🤣🙀💕
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It was a miserable day of travel, Jo, probably one of the worst I’ve ever had. The airline was so incompetent, and so cavalier about the whole thing. But we survived, thank goodness, and it was over and we finally made it home. I was glad to be in a car and have our fate in our hands instead of the airlines!
Weather certainly does color a place, and you’re right, there’s nothing that can be done about it. I keep trying to find the perfect season to travel to a place, while also avoiding crowds. It’s hard to do. I hope to go south of the equator next summer, to be cool in Ecuador during June or July. I’ve never been to South America so that will be new to me. 🙂
I doubt I’d go back to Portugal for a long time – too many other places to visit. But if I do, I’ll certainly let you know. 🙂
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South America would be amazing, Cathy! I’d love to go but it’s probably not in the stars for me. 🙂 🙂
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We’ll see, Jo. Just recently Ecuador had a lot of protests over a fuel tax and the State Department was recommending Americans stay away, but I think it was resolved. If I can do it safely, I will, if not, I won’t.
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Unbelievable! And no refund of any kind?
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We finally got a $200 voucher (each) which we have to use on a United Flight by 2/13/20. Mike used his already, so now I have to figure out how to use mine by then! 🙂 Still not enough for all the hassle they put us through!
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Hm, just a voucher with – and with an expiry date at that – is really not much of a customer service. When our return flight from Anchorage was cancelled this summer and we had to stay for another night, our dinner, our additional night in a hotel, and our additional expense for premium seats – which we could not have on the flight they booked us on – were all paid for by Alaska Airlines.
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I thought it wasn’t much compensation either, for all the pain they put us through! I guess I need to go to Alaska so I can fly Alaska Airlines. 🙂
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Well, we both know that on certain routes you don’t have much choice of the airline. For our next long journey – to Ireland next May – it was good to shop around. British Airways proved to be more than $1000 [round trip for 2, business class] cheaper than Aer Lingus. We were surprised, btw, how affordable business class was. I’ve sometimes paid only a little less than for Frankfurt and back in Premium Economy.
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That’s true, Pit. I’m glad you found some good flights for your trip to Ireland, which I’m sure will be fabulous. Something fun to look forward to in 2020! 🙂
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What a horrendous experience your plane journey was! A real comedy of errors, though I guess it wasn’t very comic at the time. I thought the name Gander sounded familiar, then you mentioned 9/11. I remember the story of how the town rallied round to help.
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For sure you’re right, Anabel. It was a comedy of errors but not at all funny at the time. It does make for a good story though. Gander did come through for the passengers of stranded planes on 9/11, and they came through to feed us, so I can give them credit for that. The airline totally screwed up though.
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What a nightmare journey, given your expectations for travel time. (A note: returning from Warsaw I was in air, airports, on buses etc for 36+ hours straight – but at least I knew it in advance!) I would never have contemplated driving for five hours after your marathon.
Fascinating sidelight on Gander in the wake September 11th. How generous of Canada.
I wonder if you found nothing new in bits of Portugal because you were trying to show Mike what you’d already seen?
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I’ve been on some very long flights and travels, especially when I went from the U.S. to anywhere in Asia, but at least I knew it ahead of time. That makes a big difference, your mindset! I also hated being trapped on a plane without knowing when we’d leave for over 3 hours! As for driving, if we hadn’t driven, we would have had to stay overnight in New Jersey with no guarantee of our flight out the next day. We both preferred to take matters into our own hands.
Gander and Canada were very generous and showed great hospitality to those stranded passengers on 9/11.
Every place I went north of Sintra and Lisbon in Portugal was new to me, Meg, but I don’t know why, I just wasn’t feeling it this time around. Maybe it was the weather, maybe because anything would have been a disappointment after the Camino. I think Portugal might be a fun place to live, but I don’t think I need to travel there again. 🙂
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This is not a good advertisement for the airline. How annoying for you. The length of the journey is not unusual for us though, as any flight overseas is time consuming from Australia.
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It certainly isn’t good advertising for the airline, Carol. I think people need to tell it like it is though. Many corporations don’t care at all about their customers, and this was a prime example.
I know about long journeys myself as I’ve taken many to Asia that have been super long. But at least that was expected. It makes a big difference. 🙂
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What a dreadful journey! How did you manage to remain calm and not lose your temper with some official during such a terrible time? I would have gone crazy I think. I hope you were/are entitled to some compensation. And I think Mike was incredibly conscientious to go to work after only a couple of hurs sleep. I would have needed a couple of days.
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Believe me, Mari, I was about to blow up, and I think I threw around some very snide, rude and loud comments, loud enough for flight attendants to hear! But in the end, the people who made these horrible decisions were not the ones I was face to face with.
We each got a $200 voucher toward another United flight; Mike used his already, and I need to use mine by 2/13/20. Mike is always conscientious, much more so than I would have been! It took me awhile to recover, and I’m sure it did him too. 🙂
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