My strange and unexpected fascination with Kyoto, Japan started, quite simply, with a visit to What the Book? in the Itaewon neighborhood of Seoul, South Korea. Browsing through the travel section in December, 2010 when my son Alex was visiting, I come across a book by Pico Iyer called The Lady and the Monk: Four Seasons in Kyoto. The picture on the front was enticing enough, the photograph divided diagonally into two parts. On the top triangle was a Japanese lady in a mustard colored kimono, holding an umbrella by her side. On the bottom was a city street with neon signs and fast-moving headlight beams, like red and yellow silk threads, speeding down the length of the streets.
The blurb on the back cover said Pico Iyer decided to go to Kyoto and live in a monastery, to learn about Zen Buddhism from the inside, to get to know one of the loveliest cities in the world, and to experience Japanese culture. To be honest, this was what hooked me and caused me to open the book. On the first page he described an accidental encounter with Japan, which occured only because of an overnight layover on a flight to somewhere else. In the morning, he walked outside: “As I began to walk along the narrow lanes, I felt, in fact, as if I were walking through a gallery of still lifes. Everything looked exactly the way it was supposed to look, polished to a sheen, and motionless.”
There were multiple things that appealed to me about the whole premise of this book. I was enthralled. First, the idea of Japan as a “still life” was intriguing. I didn’t have any interest in going to Japan as I feared it would be a repeat of Korea. Many Koreans told me Japan was just like Korea. Of course, many of those Koreans had never left their own country, so I didn’t know why I should have believed them. Then several fellow English teachers I knew in Korea also said it was about the same. These comments steered me away from Japan because I’d explored many corners of Korea during the year and I really didn’t want to spend my time and money flying to Japan to see more of the same. Nothing in Korea could honestly be compared to a “still life.” But those two simple words shifted my perspective. They felt like an invitation into a painting, a piece of art awash with color and beauty, with elegant gardens and exquisite taste.
The other thing that piqued my interest was Pico Iyer’s desire to learn about Zen Buddhism. In Korea, I had put off time and again doing a temple stay. I finally ended up doing one, but only toward the end of my stay in late February of 2011, after I’d been to Japan (temple stay at golgulsa sunmudo ~ a surprise encounter with monk-type martial arts). This interest in Zen was one of the things that fascinated me about this book, and about Japan.
I enjoyed Japanese food, especially sushi that I’d eaten in the U.S. I loved to see ornamental gardens and the cultivation of beauty all around. After all, I used to take classes in interior design and had a small interior design business of my own for a while. I decorated my own house in Virginia from top to bottom. I’ve always been drawn to exuberant colors. I loved the idea of ritual. I loved the idea of tea ceremonies and flower arranging, although I’d never participated in either.
Years ago, I read Memoirs of a Geisha. I found the geisha culture fascinating, though disturbing on many levels. I also read the book Hiroshima, by John Hersey, a moving and highly disturbing personal story of that city’s residents who survived the nuclear attack in 1945. I used to think if I ever visited Japan, I would have to go to Hiroshima where it is said you can see outlines of people who were vaporized by the bomb on concrete walls. I didn’t know if this was simply a legend. Anyway, I’d talked to people who visited Hiroshima and they said it is extremely depressing, much like visiting the Holocaust Museum in Washington, I assume. An educational and moving and disturbing voyage, something everyone should do. It wouldn’t be something I would do on my first visit.
I wasn’t knowledgeable overall about Japanese culture. So I looked forward to spending five days in Kyoto over the lunar new year in February, 2011. I looked forward to painting myself, a mere fleeting brushstroke, into the “still life” of Kyoto conjured up by Pico Iyer.
All photos are from my first visit to Kyoto in February, 2011.
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Fast forward to late February of 2017, six years after my first visit to Japan. I was offered a job teaching EFL to Japanese university students in Japan beginning on March 28, 2017 (the term actually began April 7 and ended August 1). I opted to extend my stay for one week, until August 8, so I could travel around Japan for a week. As I’d always wanted to visit Hiroshima, I’d have to incorporate a visit into that journey.
My short trip to Kyoto in February 2011 had been delightful. I loved the Buddhist temples, the ubiquitous vending machines, Japanese food, the cleanliness and efficiency of everything. I looked forward to exploring as much of Japan as I could in the four months I’d be there.
I would live in Sagamihara City in Kanagawa Prefecture, part of the greater Tokyo metropolitan area. The capital of Kanagawa is Yokohama, the second largest city in Japan by population (3.7 million); it lies on Tokyo Bay, south of Tokyo, in the Kantō region of the main island of Honshu, and is today one of Japan’s major ports.
~ catbird in japan | the land of temples and what-nots ~
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“THE CALL TO PLACE” INVITATION: I invite you to write a post on your own blog about what enticed you to choose a particular destination. If you don’t have a blog, I invite you to write in the comments. If your destination is a place you love and keep returning to, feel free to write about that. If you want to see the original post about the subject, you can check it out here: imaginings: the call to place.
Please include the link in the comments below by Wednesday, November 21 at 1:00 p.m. EST. When I write my post in response to this challenge on Thursday, November 22, I’ll include your links in that post. If you’d like, you can use the hashtag #wanderessence.
This will be an ongoing invitation, on the fourth Thursday of each month. Feel free to jump in at any time. 🙂
I hope you’ll join in our community. I look forward to reading your posts!
the ~ wander.essence ~ community
I invite you all to settle in and read a few posts from our wandering community. I promise, you’ll be inspired! As I’m still in Spain/Portugal, see below in the comments for any links.
Thanks to all of you who wrote posts about “the call to place.” 🙂
Funny how a book can be so influential, Cathy. Your mention of Pico Iyer reminds me that his recent one about Portugal was on the coffee table at a friend’s place here. I picked it up but we were busy chatting so i didn’t get a good look. The whole geisha culture is fascinating, isn’t it, and I’ve read a lot of novels around the subject? 🙂 🙂 Thanks for your lovely email. I will respond at some point but it’s great to have news of the family. A very happy birthday to you!
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I find books to be very inspirational as far as travel is concerned, Jo. I didn’t know Pico Iyer had a recent book about Portugal. I’ll have to seek that out. I’ve also read about the Geisha culture, but unfortunately I didn’t really get a glimpse of it while in Japan. Thanks for the birthday wishes. Sorry I’m just now getting around to responding!
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No worries darlin! I’m knee deep in photos and aeons old postcards. 😃
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It must be fun going down memory lane through old photos. Have fun!
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Just been talking to James to arrange Christmas -in Leeds -and my friend Beryl from my London days. There are so many farewells to say in this next week or so. 😕
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I’m sure there are!
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Your photos do show Japan as still lifes they are beautiful. It is also a place I would love to visit, especially at cherry blossom time. Hope you are recovering and back sparking on all 4 cylinders
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I love so much of Japan, Pauline. It’s crowded, but there are so many perfect little gems, still-life scenes so to speak. 🙂
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Another country I missed, so now enjoy the virtual travel on the blogs
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What a lovely piece and what lovely memories you have of Kyoto. I too loved Kyoto, but I was only there for 3 days during which we had to cram so much in (to please 3 different people) that I missed some parts I’d have liked to see. I always feel, however, that it is nice to leave something ‘for next time’ as an incentive to return and I like to think that Kyoto is one of those places I will return to. I presume you have since visited Hiroshima, it’s not depressing, just a place to face the dilemma the head honchos of WWll faced, and wondering what our decision would have been. I wonder what your thoughts were.
Isn’t it wonderful how a good book can influence our travels and desires to visit a place? I had the same experience with Memed, my Hawk, by Yasar Kemal which, after reading, sent me hot-foot to Istanbul and then to many other parts of Turkey, a country that was so far off my radar 25 years ago that it was almost invisible. Now I class it as one of my favourites.
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I wish I’d had more time in Kyoto, too, Mari; even when I finished my teaching gig on this last trip, I didn’t have time to revisit it because there were other places such as Hiroshima, Miyajima, & Nara that I wanted to see. Ideally I’d like to see everything on my list the first time around so I don’t have to return, as I’ve found that returning the same place twice sometimes disappoints. Plus, there are so many places in the world to see, I’d rather go someplace new. Hiroshima was very moving. I wrote about it here: https://catbirdinkyoto.wordpress.com/2017/08/03/hiroshima/
I find books often inspire my travel destinations. I’ll have to check out Memed, my Hawk. I too loved Istanbul, and all of Turkey.
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The importance of books…! I would love to visit Kyoto, the other family members already have, but someone must take care of the dogs – and that is me. Maybe some day…
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I really love how books inspire travel, Ann-Christine. I hope one day you’ll be able to visit Kyoto, but sometimes we have our duties, right?
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We do have our duties…yes. But I still plan to go, maybe 2020 if I am healthy
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That’s not far away at all! 🙂
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😊
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Japan had never been on my radar but you’ve made Kyoto sound really appealing. Have a very happy birthday Cathy 🙂
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Thanks belatedly for the birthday wishes, Gilly. 🙂 I ended up loving Japan for many reasons, but it is awfully crowded. However, the society runs like clockwork so it’s very negotiable. 🙂
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Your photo of the Golden Pavilion is simply stunning, Cathy. We try not to be influenced by the opinions of others when planning travel, because everyone wants something different and a place others didn’t enjoy might be just what we were looking for.
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Thanks so much, Carol. That Golden Pavilion is very photogenic.
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Happy birthday Cathy! Hope you are well enough to enjoy a glass of wine or maybe a nice cocktail.
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Thanks Jude! I seem to be feeling a bit better. Met one of my Camino friends last night for cava at the Parador terrace and then had tapas one last time. Heading to Portugal this morning. 😍
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Enjoy Portugal – I am sure you will and I bet you have lots of things planned. Bet you are looking forward to some company again.
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It was fun to have Mike along after being on the Camino. However, I did have plenty of companionship on the Camino; it’s naturally the way! Portugal was great fun, except for the rainy days.
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Pico Iyer is so entertaining….I can easily picture the whole scene you describe when you picked up that book and were intrigued by his words. It’s always a multiplicity of influences, don’t you think, that leads us somewhere, but it’s smart of you to try to narrow it down and zero in on one or two. These days I’m trying to figure out where to go next, in terms of a longer trip, sometime next year. I’m not “called” to one place, and am feeling like I almost need to make a spread sheet of the pluses and minuses of all the places I’d love to see in order to focus in! 🙂 I hope all is well with you – sorry I have been absent.
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Hi Lynn, I’m only now catching up after being gone for 2 months and a week, walking the Camino in Spain (799 km on the Camino Frances) and then visiting Portugal for 10 days. I love to be aware of things in life I encounter that draw me to a place. Usually it’s books, but sometimes art or movies or just experiences with someone of a certain culture. My spread sheet is huge, with travel destinations listed until I’m 90! I’m sure that is wishful thinking, but I can always hope.
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