Leaving Kyushu for Tokyo and then Yokohama
Thursday, October 17, 2024: We flew the length of Japan from Oita Airport in Kyūshū to Tokyo Haneda on Thursday morning at 10:30 a.m. On the 1 1/2 hour flight, we could see many of the places we visited (Okayama, the rail bridge leading to Shikoku, Kyoto & Osaka, Tokyo) and some we didn’t (Mt. Fuji, though I’ve been there before).
Yokohama
We arrived at Haneda around noon and took the Keikyū Airport Express train to Yokohama, where we checked into JR East Hotel Mets Premier Yokohama Sakuragicho. It was right next to the station to make it easy to get to the airport on Friday. What a nice hotel, with spacious, comfy beds, Netflix, and a nice bathroom. We were able to check out at 11:00, a bit early for our 3:45 pm flight home, but it was nice to have a good place to relax in the morning before our 12:50-hour flight.
As soon as we left our luggage at the hotel we went to a noodle 🍜 shop where I had my favorite udon noodles topped with tempura shrimp and vegetables. Yum. 😋
Sankeien
On our last afternoon in Yokohama, I took Mike by taxi to visit Sankeien (三溪園), a spacious Japanese-style garden in southern Yokohama which exhibits a number of historic buildings from across Japan. I had been there in late spring of 2017 and had loved wandering around.
There is a pond, small rivers, flowers and wonderful strolling trails. The garden was built by Sankei Hara, a successful Yokohama businessman who built a fortune through the trading of silk and raw silk from the Meiji Era (1868-1912) to the Taisho Era (1912-1926).
Sankei was known to interact with cultural leaders such as artists and literary figures at Sankeien, which served as a place where modern Japanese culture such as art, literature, and Chanoyu (tea ceremony) was developed. It was designated as a Place of Scenic Beauty by Japan in 2007, and the entire garden has been named a cultural asset.
Sankeien is comprised of two gardens: the outer garden that was opened to the public in 1906 and the inner garden that was used privately by Sankei.
The Outer Garden
In harmony with the 17 historic structures (temples and building associated with historical figures, etc.) gathered from places such as Kyoto and Kamakura, the garden provides colorful scenery that changes with the seasons.
Among the historic buildings exhibited in the park are an elegant daimyo (feudal lord) residence, several tea houses and the main hall and three storied pagoda of Kyoto’s old Tomyoji Temple.
The Former Yanohara Family House (旧矢箆原家住宅) was originally the private residence of the Yanohara family. It was moved to the garden in 1960 during the Showa Era (1926-1989). Built in the gassho-style, it was originally located in Shirakawa-go, Hida. It is the only historical structure within the garden whose interior is open to the public throughout the year. Although it was designed for farmers, the building features high-class architectural elements, such as an entrance way that is lower than the main floor, a traditional reception room complete with tatami mats, a spacious entrance hall for guests, and windows with distinct designs often seen in Zen Buddhist temples. This showcases the affluence of the Yanohara family, which was said to be one of three central families in Hida, despite being farmers. Farming tools used in the Hida region are on display inside the house, and the irori (fireplace in the middle of the living room floor) is fed with logs every day. The black pillars and smoky smell transports a visitor back in time.
We visited the area of Shirakawa-go at the early part of our trip to Japan: the japan alps: takayama & surrounding villages.
The Buddhist Sanctum of Former Tokeiji Temple was built in 1634 during the Edo period. It was moved to the garden in 1907 during the Meiji Era. This Zen Buddhist sanctum used to be located at Tokeiji, a temple in Kamakura famous for providing refuge to women seeking release from marriage.
Yokobuean was built in 1908 during the Meiji Era. It is said that this countryside-style tea hut was moved to the garden from Hokkeji Temple in Nara Prefecture, but many details are unknown.
Rindoan was built in 1970 during the Showa Era. This tea room was donated by Rindo Group of the Sohen school, one of the schools of tea ceremony.
Sankeien has many historical buildings, including Tōmyō-ji, a former three-story pagoda (旧燈明寺三重塔) originally constructed in Kyoto in 1457 and relocated in 1914. This pagoda used to be at Tomyoji Temple, an abandoned temple in Kizugawa City in Kyoto Prefecture. This is currently the oldest wooden pagoda in the Kanto region.
Finally, Kakushokaku was built in 1902 during the Meiji Era and was repaired in 2000. With a total floor space of 950 square meters, this building was built by Sankei as his residence. Many cultural and political figures paid visits to Sankei at this house. Although the house was remodeled during WWII, it was recently restored to its original design and is now used by the public for various occasions.
The Inner Garden
The Inner Garden was enjoyed by the Hara family for their own private use. The inner garden was designed to enjoy the graceful view of historic buildings, with Rinshunkaku, comprised of three buildings built in the beginning of the Edo period (early 1600s) as the central complex.
Rinshunkaku was built in Wakayama Prefecture, south of Osaka, in 1649 as a residential villa for Yorinobu, the first feudal lord of the Kishu Tokgawa clan, the leaders of samurai from the 17th to the middle of the 19th century. The three structures were later moved to Osaka City, and eventually relocated to Sankeien, where the rebuilding was completed in 1917. At that time, the shapes of the roofs and the placements of the buildings were altered. The interiors, however, remained as they were, including fusuma sliding doors decorated by famous artists of the Kano school, as well as fine ornaments in the teahouse style. Positioned individually along the pond, yet connected, the three serve as the central feature of the inner garden.
This is the most beautiful part of Sankeien.
Rengein was built in 1917 during the Taisho Era. The idea to build this tea room was conceived by Sankei himself.
Shunsoro has a small room built during the Edo period, and a large room added after the building was moved to the garden in 1922. It is said that the small room, which is a tea room with a space of about 6.2 square meters, was built by Uraku Oda, the younger brother of Nobunaga Oda (one of the most famous military leaders in Japanese history who unified most of the main island).
Kinmokutsu was built in 1918 during the Taisho Era. The idea to build this small tea house with a space of about 3 square meters was conceived by Sankei.
The Juto Oido Hall of the Former Tenzuiji Temple was originally constructed in 1591 by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the leader of samurai and one of the most famous military commanders in Japanese history who succeeded in unifying Japan. It was built to contain a juto, a stone monument signifying his wish for health and long life for his mother. The engraved doors, pillars and other parts were colorfully painted originally, but only hints of that remain.
The hall was moved to Sankeien in 1905, the first relocated building in the inner garden.
The Tenzuiji Temple stood on the premises of the Daitokuji Temple in Kyoto, but was abandoned in 1874.
Tenjuin was a Zen Buddhist hall constructed on the premises of Shinpeiji Temple, near Kenchoji Zen Temple in Kamakura. According to records found during its repair, it is believed to have been built around 1651, in the Edo Period, but it has some features that suggest it may have been built earlier.
The hall was moved to Sankeien in 1916 for enshrinement of the ancestors of the Hara family.
We had to wait a long time for a taxi to appear to whisk us back to our hotel, as there was no public transportation to or from the garden (we had taken a taxi there). Finally, we got back to the hotel to relax a bit before dinner.
Our last night in Yokohama (and in Japan), on Thursday night, I gave Mike the assignment to find us a pizza restaurant. He found one on the third floor of a nondescript building on a close-by food street. We shared a delicious pizza, half Margherita and half eggplant and anchovies. The perfect way to end our time in Japan and to prepare our stomachs to re-enter the American food scene, a scene that thankfully offers diverse & mostly delicious culinary adventures.
Steps: 10,694; Miles 4.52. Weather in Yokohama: Hi 79°, Lo 65°. Mostly cloudy.
Returning home from Japan
Friday, October 18: Late Friday morning, we took the express train to Haneda Airport where we had a 3:45 p.m. flight home to Dulles International Airport. On our original flight to Japan we had been lucky enough to have a nearly empty plane, and I was able to stretch out over 4 seats and sleep much of the way. On our flight back, we had no such luck. The plane was fully packed.
I watched a movie, Qing chun 18×2 tong wang you ni de lü cheng, in which Ami, a Japanese backpacker, meets Jimmy in Taiwan and they work together at a KTV. They bond over work and adventures, but Ami leaves suddenly. Eighteen years later, Jimmy finds a postcard from Ami, sparking Jimmy to travel to Japan to reconnect and to find closure.
We arrived home at Dulles International Airport at 3:35 p.m., BEFORE we left Japan. 🙂
Steps: 5,115; Miles 2.16. Weather in Yokohama Hi 76°, Lo 69°. Cloudy. Weather in Oakton, VA: Hi 71°, Lo 38°. Sunny.
~ wander.essence ~ 
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