Tag: Walks

the flowerpot rocks & the quaint town of alma

wanderessence1025 February 22, 2023

Monday, October 3, 2022: This morning we checked out of our Airbnb in Saint John and headed for The Hopewell Rocks.

The Hopewell Rocks, also called the Flowerpot Rocks, or simply The Rocks, are rock formations known as sea stacks caused by tidal erosion. They are scattered on the shores of the upper reaches of the Bay of Fundy at the Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park in New Brunswick, Canada. Due to the extreme tidal range of the Bay of Fundy, the base of the formations are covered in water twice a day. It is possible to view the formations from ground level at low tide, which is what we did.

The Hopewell Rocks formations consist of red-brown sedimentary sandstone and minor mudstone rock. They stand 40-70 feet tall. After the retreat of the glaciers in the last Ice Age, surface water filtering through cracks in the cliffs eroded and separated the formations from the rest of the cliff face. Meanwhile, advancing and retreating tides and the associated waves have eroded the base of the rocks at a faster rate than the tops, resulting in their unusual shapes.

We went at low tide to explore the ocean floor around the rocks. We were lucky to have a beautiful day.

It was about a 15-minute walk from the visitor center to the rocks. As we walked, I started doing an exaggerated march, being my silly self. I was wearing my new fisherman hat. Mike said, “Oh, there goes Chairman Mao marching away!” We laughed so hard we were in convulsions. That hat is truly a Chairman Mao hat.:-)

High tide today was at 18:44 and low tide was at 12:43. We arrived at 11:43, and wandered along the coastal floor from one end to the other. The rock formations looked like Clydesdale hooves with all the seaweed clinging to the bases. Our feet got quite muddy traipsing around but there was a fountain at the top to clean them off.

Hopewell Rocks

Hopewell Rocks as the tide is going out

Hopewell Rocks

Chairman Mao at Hopewell Rocks

Mike at Hopewell Rocks

Hopewell Rocks

Seaweed at Hopewell Rocks

me with seaweed piles

Hopewell Rocks

Mike at Hopewell Rocks

me at Hopewell Rocks

Hopewell Rocks

Back up near the Visitor Center we had a view of the mudflats, coastline and the Bay of Fundy itself at Daniels Flats, named for one of the area’s early settlers. The bay is about 2.5 miles wide at this point. Salt marshes form a green band around the Bay of Fundy.

Daniels Flats

Because the Bay of Fundy is funnel-shaped (wide/deep at one end and narrow/shallow at the other) tides are pushed increasingly higher as they move up the bay.The length of the bay also plays a factor by causing a natural sloshing effect called resonance. This sloshing amplifies the effect of the funnel.

Among the highest in the world, the tides reach up to 14 meters (46 feet) at Hopewell Cape and 17 meters (56 feet) in the upper reaches of the bay. Not only does the tide rise 46 feet (14 meters) vertically, it also recedes almost two football fields horizontally. In fact, 160 billion tons of water move in and out of the bay every 25 hours. Powered by the gravitational pull of the moon and sun, Fundy’s tides are among the highest in the world and vary daily with the changing positions of these celestial bodies.

The name Fundy is thought to be an English translation for the French word “fendu” meaning “split.” The bay has been navigated by western European fishermen since the 16th century.

Bay of Fundy

formation of the flower pot rocks

Bay of Fundy

I posed for a picture with my fisherman hat in the tiny S. S. Hopewell. So goofy. 🙂 Mike has endless names for me in my hat. Here, I’m Popeye the Sailor Man. 🙂

me in the S.S. Hopewell

We left Hopewell Rocks and went by Cape Enrage. The 140-year-old lighthouse, which is still working, is perched on the end of the cape’s rocky promontory. Here, tides rise 16 vertical meters (53 feet). We stopped here but it was closed and locked so we couldn’t walk the beach trails.

Cape Enrage

On the way, we got out to wander a bit on a cairn-dotted rocky beach.

cairn-dotted rocky beach

marshlands near Cape Enrage

Back at Fundy National Park, we took a short (boring) hike to Point Wolfe Beach after checking out the cute red covered bridge.

The Point Wolfe River was once the center of a lumber operation. In the early 1800s, the lumber industry was booming on New Brunswick and mills sprung up on most rivers along the Bay. The Point Wolfe Mill was opened in 1826 and continued off and on for almost 100 years.

covered bridge in Fundy National Park

trail to Point Wolfe Beach

little pretties along the trail

Point Wolfe Beach

We finally headed to Alma where we would stay the night. The small seaside village services Fundy National Park with restaurants and motels.

We showered and changed and wandered around town looking for a place to eat. I had it in my mind I wanted lobster. We found a lineup of colorful Adirondack chairs and boats tied to the wharf which made fetching reflections in the water.

Alma Lobster Shop beckoned. Mike had a lobster roll and chowder. I had a Lazy Lobster Dinner: Shucked lobster meat, cole slaw, drawn butter and roll. We sat on the open air porch, where annoying flies buzzed all around us. We bought two mugs and an Alma lobster shop onesie for the real-life Alma that Mike’s best friend’s son is trying to adopt.

Alma

Alma Lobster Shop

As we walked back to our tiny but cozy Airbnb, we saw fishing paraphernalia, colorful coils of rope and lobster pots.

We settled into our cozy Airbnb and watched the last episodes of Virgin River and read.

Alma fishing yard

colorful ropes

our tiny but cozy Airbnb

Steps: 16,779; Miles 7.09. Drove 160 miles.

Tuesday, October 4: This morning we left Alma and headed to Prince Edward Island to visit my friend Lisa. On the way, we returned to Hopewell Rocks. We were hoping to see the rocks at high tide, at which time all you can see are the tops of the rocks covered with vegetation and appearing as tiny islands. Alas, we arrived too late for high tide. We got there at 9:58 a.m., and high tide had been around 7:50 a.m., so we were two hours late. The water was definitely higher than when we were there yesterday, but it was low enough that we could have walked all the way to the beach at the far end.

The time span between low and high tide is 6 hours and 13 minutes. People have the chance to walk on the ocean’s floor from 3 hours before low tide until 3 hours after.

Today’s hours of operation in the park were 9:00 to 17:00, so there was no way we would have seen the morning’s high tide anyway.

We enjoyed some views of the Flower Pots nearest the stairs but they weren’t covered at all by water while we were there from 10:00 a.m. until 10:20 a.m.

Hopewell Rocks on Tuesday morning

the Tides on Tuesday morning

Hopewell Rocks as the tide is going out

We took off, heading for Prince Edward Island. We made a stop in Moncton at Café Archibald, where we had coffees and an egg, bacon and cheese English muffin. The cafe was cute and the staff was busily preparing lunches for take-out.

We left after a bit and drove down Moncton’s main street. It was a charming town. People apparently spoke both French and English there. I was sad we didn’t have time to explore more.

Still in New Brunswick, we stopped at Cape Jourimain to take pictures of the Confederation Bridge leading to Prince Edward Island. It is a box-girder bridge carrying the Trans-Canada Highway across the Abegweit Passage of the Northumberland Strait, linking the province of Prince Edward Island with New Brunswick on the mainland. Opened May 31, 1997, the 12.9km (8.0mi) bridge is Canada’s longest bridge and the world’s largest bridge over ice-covered water.

Tolls only apply when leaving Prince Edward Island (traveling westbound). Toll rates since January 2022 are $50.25 for a two-axle auto. Motorcycles pay $20. Pedestrians and cyclists are not permitted to cross the bridge, but a shuttle service is available.

Cape Jourimain is an area comprising two islands and a section of mainland along the southwestern shore of the Northumberland Strait. The two islands, Jourimain and Trenholm, have been connected to the mainland since 1966 by an artificial causeway. It is host to the western end of the Confederation Bridge. In 1980, the two islands, including a section of mainland, were designated as a National Wildlife Area.

There were trails that looked enticing but we didn’t take them because we were due to be at Lisa’s house by 3:00-4:00.

We saw a lighthouse, the Cape Jourimain Lighthouse, built in 1870 after nearly 30 years of petitions. The 15.5m lighthouse was built to help sailors navigate the narrow strait. The lighthouse operated until 1997 when the Cape Tormentine Ferry service was decommissioned as a result of the opening of the Confederation Bridge.

Cape Jourimain

me at Cape Jourimain with the Confederation Bridge behind me

The Confederation Bridge from Cape Jourimain

Cape Jourimain

Here is a short video of our time at Hopewell Rocks and the rest of New Brunswick.

We crossed the Confederation Bridge to Prince Edward Island.

ministers island & st. andrews by-the-sea, new brunswick

wanderessence1025 February 8, 2023

Sunday, October 2, 2022: This morning we drove to St. Andrews by-the-Sea in New Brunswick, almost to the U.S. border in Maine. But before we went into the town, we drove over a sand bar at low tide to Ministers Island.

Ministers Island

The Passamaquoddy people lived on this island, Qonasqamqi Monihkuk, for thousands of years. In 1790, Samuel Andrews, an Anglican minister and Loyalist, built a home here, hence the name. Around 1890, William Van Horne, visionary builder of the Canadian Pacific Railway, established his summer estate here.

The 490-acre Ministers Island stands several hundred meters offshore in New Brunswick’s Passamaquoddy Bay, immediately northeast of St. Andrews-by-the-Sea. It is a geographical oddity in that it is accessible at low tide only by the wide gravel bar suitable for vehicular travel.

It is possible to drive, walk, or bike to the island at low tide; we drove. We were adequately warned to make sure to leave the island before the tide came in or we would be stuck for another 6 hours. The sand bar that connects Ministers Island to the mainland is under at least 14 feet of water at high tide. Tide schedules change daily so it was essential to check the tide chart posted at either end of the bar before crossing. We were warned we should NOT attempt to cross on foot or by vehicle if there were water on the bar as the tide is swift and the water frigid.

Here we are crossing the sand bar to the island.

We drove across at 10:51 a.m. and on the island side, they told us we had to leave the island by 2:00 p.m. or we’d have to wait 6 hours to leave. The overall tide change is 16 feet, covering the sand bar “road” totally.

Ministers Island

the sand bar to Ministers Island

This huge island estate, once completely self-sufficient, was the summer home of Sir William Van Horne (1843 – 1915), chairman of the Canadian Pacific Railway from 1899-1915. Today, Ministers Island is a Provincial and Federal Historic Site and is managed by the Van Horne Estate on Ministers Island, Inc. a community-based non-profit dedicated to preserving the nature and history of the island.

In 1891, construction began on the house named for Sir William Van Horne’s father, Cornelius Covenhoven Van Horne. What started as a somewhat modest summer cottage, after as many as seven modifications, became the 50-room residence of today. It was supported by numerous outbuildings, including a windmill and gardener’s cottage.

By the time of Van Horne’s death in 1915, the island had been transformed into a small idyllic utopia, revolving around the sandstone mansion known as Covenhoven. It was furnished in a lavish late Edwardian manner, with manicured grounds, scenic roads, greenhouses turning out exotic fruits and vegetables as well as a breeding farm.

First, we came upon the large chateau-style barn, designed for Van Horne in 1898; it is one of the largest in The Maritimes, and it was often regarded as the most beautiful. The barn was used for breeding of Van Horne’s prizewinning Clydesdale horses and Dutch-belted cattle, one of the only such herds in North America.

The farm was also home to pigs, geese, ducks, chickens and turkeys. The produce of the farm and gardens was shipped to Montreal by night train during the winter months, providing the family with fresh food throughout the year. The barn was surrounded by several outbuildings, including a creamery, smaller barns and living quarters for the workers. Workers in the barn wore white lab coats. The story goes that, on a visit to the barn, Van Horne saw workers staring out the window. To ensure maximum productivity, he had the windows moved up above their sight lines.

Originally 23 buildings stood on this property, many of which were part of the farm operation. Milk produced by the Dutch Belted Cattle was piped from the barn to the Creamery.

the chateau-style barn

old car in the barn

tractor

buggy

cattle pens

milking stations

the high windows used to keep workers from staring out the window

sheep pens

the Creamery

We went on a tour through parts of Covenhoven, Sir William’s 50-room summer home, which has an old windmill sitting out back.

We were told that in the dining room, leading American and Canadian businessmen, railway barons, Japanese royalty, and well-known members of international society dined at the table, which could seat up to 24. Dinner for the men was followed by port, cigars and billiards. For the ladies, it was playing cards and relaxing by a roaring fire in the living room.

Here, Van Horne pursued his diverse interests from art to zoology. A talented amateur artist and collector, Van Horne used this island estate to encourage Canadian landscape painting.

After the tour, we were left to wander through on our own. The cottage-turned-mansion was quite impressive.

windmill at Covenhoven

Covenhoven

Living room at Covenhoven

kitchen at Covenhoven

Covenhoven

Van Horne’s artist supplies

details at Covenhoven

Covenhoven

In one part of the home, we learned about Van Horne’s efforts on behalf of national parks in Canada. In 1883, at Van Horne’s suggestion, the federal government began to consider the creation of national parks and in 1885 set aside land around the sulfur hot springs in Banff for public use. Legislation was passed in 1887 making it the first National Park in Canada. Today Parks Canada manages 168 national historic sites, serves as Canada’s representative at the United Nations World Heritage Committee and is responsible for the administration of 11 of Canada’s 17 World Heritage Sites.

The summer estate reflects Van Horne’s vision of the importance of tourism and agriculture in Canada’s development. The buildings are in the Shingles style, popular for resort architecture in Canada in the late-19th and early 20th centuries.

Ministers Island

Canadian Pacific Railway

Banff

As we wandered outdoors on the grounds of the estate, we were confused by the time. Our cellphones kept picking up Maine time (the state is just across the water), which was one hour behind. The time on my phone was showing it to be one hour earlier than it was. So at 2:00, when we were supposed to leave the island, my phone could have been showing 1:00, thus giving us the mistaken impression we had an extra hour before we had to leave the island. If we had not realized what was happening, we might have been stuck on the island another 6 hours.

We walked to the southern tip of the island, where Van Horne had constructed a bathhouse from red sandstone blasted from the beach below; the perfectly round two-story building was completed in 1912. The upper level offered panoramic views of the bay while the lower level contained changing rooms and provided access to the beach via a circular walkway and the family’s in-ground tidal saltwater swimming pool. We walked on the rocky beach and were battered about by the icy wind.

walkway to the bathhouse

bathhouse

changing rooms in the bathhouse

Sandstone bathhouse

the beach

me on the “beach”

beach

bathhouse

kelp

bathhouse

Before leaving the island, we saw Cedar Lane, a cedar-lined foot and carriage trail to the Covenhoven estate. We left Ministers Island at 12:40, in plenty of time to avoid being trapped there for six hours, and headed to St. Andrews-by-the-Sea.

Cedar Lane

leaving across the sandbar

Here we are driving across the sand bar back to the mainland.

St. Andrews-by-the-Sea

We had a nice lunch at Niger Reef Tea House in St. Andrews. I enjoyed fish cakes with lemon dill aioli and Mike had Veggie burgers: mixed bean and roasted vegetables with sun-dried tomato pesto.

Niger Reef Tea House

Veggie burger

fish cakes

St. Andrews-by-the-Sea, on Passamaquoddy Bay, was designated a National Historic District in 1998. It has long been a summer retreat of the affluent, and mansions ring the town. Of the town’s 550 buildings, 280 were erected before 1880, and 14 of those have survived from the 1700s. In 1777, Loyalists from the U.S. moved north to escape the Revolutionary War and settled in what is now St. Andrews in 1783. Some Loyalists even brought their homes piece by piece across the bay from Castine, Maine.

We walked past the blockhouses built to defend the batteries that were meant to protect the harbor and river from privateering raids. Fort Tipperary, a modest fort, had been built in 1808 above the town, but citizens felt it didn’t protect the harbor sufficiently. During the American Revolution privateers attacked and robbed every port in the Maritimes except Halifax. In wartime, governments licensed private businesses and ships to seize enemy vessels and cargoes as “prizes.” This was frequent along the east coast during the War of 1812. Licensed American privateers were drawn to the ships for their valuable cargoes, or to the town to loot prosperous homes and businesses. Privateering was a common wartime practice until the mid-1800s.

block house in St. Andrews by-the-Sea

low tide

cannons in St. Andrews by-the-Sea

St. Andrews by-the-Sea

We strolled the streets of St. Andrews, stopping at various shops, including McGuire Chocolate Company for hot chocolate and pumpkin spice latte. Another shop, Kilt & Kaboodle, sold woolen sweaters, scarves and hats made in Killarney, Ireland. I bought a fisherman’s hat, which Mike enjoyed poking fun at, calling me “Roscoe” and other crazy names. He said I reminded him of Susie in The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel. That hat gave us lots of laughs throughout our trip.

Mike bought a nice plaid shirt in The Leather House and I bought a cool scarf in browns and creams. I also bought some earrings at Warm & Coasty Boutique. I always enjoy our shopping time during our travels. 🙂

We walked out on the wharf and saw the low tide, the waterfront and people in life vests preparing to sail off on a cruise.

St. Andrews by-the-Sea

low tide at St. Andrews by-the-Sea

St. Andrews by-the-Sea

Mike at McGuire Chocolate Company

me at McGuire Chocolate Company

St. Andrews by-the-Sea

me being goofy

Warm & Coasty

Map of St. Andrews by-the-Sea & Ministers Island

cool murals in town

the tide comes in at St. Andrews by-the-Sea

the tide rolls in

St. Andrews by-the-Sea

We also saw cool murals, The Kennedy Inn, and the Pendlebury Lighthouse, aka the St. Andrews North Point Lighthouse. Built in 1833 at the tip of the peninsula, it was deactivated in 1938 and has since been restored and registered as a Canadian historic place.

Pendlebury Lighthouse

a beautiful house near the lighthouse

In 1840, the Charlotte County Court House was built and used continuously until 2016. Next to it was the Charlotte County Gaol, which operated between 1834-1979. It accommodated the jailer and 17 prisoners. The Presbyterian Greenock Church, built in 1824, was the second church built in town.

Charlotte County Courthouse

Charlotte County Gaol

Greenock Church

We had left Ministers Island at 12:40. While leaving St. Andrews at 4:00, we drove by again. It wasn’t yet high tide (which was at 5:30 p.m.) but at that time we could no longer see the sand bar.

the sandbar at 12:40

Ministers Island sign at 4:00

the sand bar is covered at 4:00

4:00 views of the covered sandbar

the covered sandbar at 4:00

Lepreau Falls

On our way to Saint John from St. Andrews, we stopped at a gas station where the young man behind the counter was quite friendly and garrulous. After complimenting my “shirt” (I had on a vest and shirt), he asked where I was from and wanted to know all about Virginia. He told me chunks of his life story, how he lived with his grandmother in Florida two months out of every year and how he had friends he wanted to visit in Virginia. He told us we should visit the nearby Lepreau Falls Provincial Park. Since it wasn’t too far out of the way, we stopped and had the waterfall to ourselves.

The name Lepreau Falls is of French origin and is a derivative of la pereau, for “little rabbit.” The contemporary spelling has prevailed since the mid-19th century.

The rapids above the main falls produce white caps and eddies which culminate with a roar over an 8-meter rocky ledge into the Bay of Fundy at its base. It is one of New Brunswick’s best “drive-by waterfalls.”

Of course Mike requested that Roscoe (the name he began calling me with my new fisherman’s hat) pose for a picture wearing the aforementioned hat.

Lepreau Falls Provincial Park

Mike at Lepreau Falls Provincial Park

Lepreau Falls Provincial Park

me as “Roscoe”

Lepreau Falls Provincial Park

Saint John

Back in Saint John, we went to dinner at Mashawi Zen Syrian Food. The door was locked though signs were outside on the sidewalk indicating it was open. We knocked on the door and the guy there grudgingly opened the door. He took his sweet time waiting on us and then revealed that they didn’t have any meat at all. We ordered the Aleppo Fava Beans plate, a very rich dish into which we dipped bread. Mike had a lentil soup, Mamounieh. All in all, it was very disappointing.

As we walked out, a guy walking by on the street said, “Did you like it?” We said, “They were out of everything!” Mike added, “…because it’s a Sunday.” The guy said, “Great to use ‘Sunday’ as an excuse!” He added, “It’s not my thing.”

Mashawi Zen Syrian Food

We went to our apartment where we got cozy, watched Virgin River, and prepared to move to Alma the next day.

Steps: 12,183; Miles: 5.16. Drove 144 miles. 🙂

heading to saint john, new brunswick by way of sackville

wanderessence1025 February 1, 2023

Thursday, September 29: We checked out of our Airbnb in Halifax this morning which required quite a bit of packing and cleaning up.

We did a quick drive through Truro, known as “The Hub of Nova Scotia” because travelers go through it on the Trans-Canada Highway. It might have been an okay town to explore, but it wasn’t all that fetching from what we could tell.

Sackville, New Brunswick

Sackville was of interest to us because of the waitress from The Old Triangle Irish Alehouse in Halifax. Our waitress had gone to college in Sackville, an idyllic university town with stately homes and ivy-clad university buildings. Mount Allison University, founded in 1839, specializes in liberal arts education at the undergraduate level. It’s small, with a student population of about 2,400.

One of the things we learned in this small town is that when people cross crosswalks, they don’t bother to look to see if any cars are approaching. They just step boldly out into the crosswalk, deep in conversation with their friends, bringing cars driven by clueless Americans to a screeching halt. In the U.S. people generally try to catch a driver’s eye to make sure they’re seen before stepping out into a crosswalk.

We made it through the town without running over anyone and went directly for the Sackville Waterfowl Park.

Sackville Waterfowl Park

What could be better than all these things at once: a sprinkling of fall colors, a boardwalk over marshland, a breeze tickling the marsh grasses, and gleaming birch trees? We found all of these at the Sackville Waterfowl Park about halfway between Halifax, Nova Scotia and Saint John, New Brunswick.

The Sackville Waterfowl Park has more than 3km (2 mi) of boardwalk and trails through 55 acres of wetlands that are home to some 180 species of birds and 200 species of plants. Throughout the park, viewing areas and interpretive signs reveal the rare waterfowl species that rest here.

At the interpretive center we learned that this area, once part of a vast salt marsh, was dyked and drained by Acadian settlers in the late 1600s to secure land for agriculture. A century later, immigrants from Yorkshire, England expanded drainage to access more farmland.

The park stands at the edge of the upper Bay of Fundy marshes, the largest wetland in Atlantic Canada. Natural wetlands are important water reservoirs, natural purification systems and wildlife habitats. The park was impounded and flooded in 1988.

The trails had some cute names such as Quack Trail, The Birches, Loosestrife Lane, Redwing Way and Minnow Overpass.

marsh grasses at Sackville Waterfowl Park

Sackville Waterfowl Park

quirky trail names

Sackville Waterfowl Park

me at Sackville Waterfowl Park

Sackville Waterfowl Park

Mike at Sackville Waterfowl Park

Sackville Waterfowl Park

birches at Sackville Waterfowl Park

Sackville Waterfowl Park

Mike

me at Sackville Waterfowl Park

Sackville Waterfowl Park

a covered bridge at Sackville Waterfowl Park

Sackville Waterfowl Park

winding boardwalks

Sackville Waterfowl Park

It was such a lovely day, it was hard to force ourselves to get in the car to drive another couple of hours to Saint John.

On our way out of town, we stopped at a cute bakery where we bought a few sweets and savories.

Saint John, New Brunswick

We arrived at our Airbnb in Saint John around 4:00. It was an airy and roomy place, the top floor of a large house within a short walk of the downtown. The host’s father rented the bottom floor.

The apartment was actually lived in part-time by the hosts and they efficiently put their stuff away into locked cupboards when guests came to stay.

We enjoyed drinks on the back porch. Then we drove around to look for a grocery store. At Sobey’s we bought some goods to hold us during our four night stay: eggs, grape tomatoes, Fold-it bread, and creamer.

We ate in tonight but I don’t remember what we had. After dinner, we settled in and watched a couple of episodes of Virgin River on their huge flat screen TV.

Mike on the porch of our Saint John Airbnb

kitchen in our Saint John Airbnb

dining area

one bedroom (of two)

stairs leading to the first floor

living room

living room with exercise bikes

It was time for us to begin our explorations of the Bay of Fundy.

Steps: 11,198; miles 4.74. Drove 286 miles.

around & about halifax, nova scotia

wanderessence1025 January 25, 2023

Halifax

Our first days staying in Halifax were spent wandering outside of the city because of the damage from Hurricane Fiona. I wrote about them here:

Friday, September 23 and Saturday, September 24: an unwelcome welcome from hurricane fiona: arriving in nova scotia.
Sunday, September 25: coastal wanderings: peggy’s cove, polly’s cove & the halifax waterfront.

Monday, September 26: Since our power was finally restored Sunday night and since it was raining Monday morning, we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and morning in our Airbnb.

We finally went at noon into downtown Halifax, where we went straight to Dharma Sushi for lunch. We enjoyed our delicious sushi and miso soup. Mike got the Monday Special: 6 pieces of spicy salmon roll, chicken teriyaki and 3 pieces of gyoza. I got Shrimp Tempura rolls.

Dharma Sushi

We wandered over to the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia, which was closed despite the website saying they were open. We have encountered so many annoyances due to the hurricane. At least people should update their websites. Other people were also at the door, equally disappointed.

The Maritime Museum of the Atlantic

We spent a couple of hours at the Martime Museum of the Atlantic, which was luckily open and packed, since it was the only open place in town. The first thing we encountered was a large map of the 2022 Hurricane Season, with Fiona front and center. At that point, Ian hadn’t yet hit Florida.

Maritime Museum of the Atlantic

Atlantic Hurricanes This Year

Remembering Hurricane Juan

We saw a display of Theodore Tugboat and his friends in Halifax Harbour. Theodore Tugboat began in 1989 as a children’s TV series inspired by the Halifax waterfront. All the boats had their own personalities and roles in the harbor community.

Theodore Tugboat

Halifax Harbor is very deep and never freezes. The world’s largest ships can visit even in winter.

We saw a model of a British 74 gunship made by a French sailor captured during the Napoleonic Wars in the 1790s and held at the prison on Melville Island on Halifax’s Northwest Arm. It is made of carved and polished beef and pork bones, likely saved from the prisoner’s own dinner plate.

model of a British 74 gunship

A lifeboat or rescue boat was virtually unsinkable. It was self-bailing; the space beneath the deck was filled with cork in case the boat got holed or flooded. It was double ended to withstand rough surf. We saw small boats used around the coast and displays describing Nova Scotia’s proud sailing heritage.

boats in The Maritime Museum of the Atlantic

“Graveyard of the Atlantic”

East Southeast of Nova Scotia, far out to sea, a small golden arc called Sable Island breaks the blue Atlantic. It is shaped by storms. The same winds that threaten mariners create currents that build this island of sand. The shifting sands lie close to major sea routes in the North Atlantic. Fierce storms, treacherous currents, and obscuring fog have caused many ships to stray too close to its deadly shoals. For many sailors, this sandy island meant death and destruction. Since 1583, there have been over 250 recorded shipwrecks on Sable Island. The map shows locations of known wrecks.

Nova Scotia’s coastline has some of the highest concentrations of shipwrecks in North America. There are over 10,000 shipwrecks in Nova Scotian waters; some think the total may be as high as 25,000.

Sable Island

Graveyard of the Atlantic

The Halifax Explosion

On the morning of December 6, 1917, the French steamship Mont-Blanc, inbound from the Atlantic with a cargo of explosives, entered the Halifax Harbour Narrows. The Norwegian Imo steamed into the same confined channel. It was bound for New York to load food and clothing for relief of occupied Belgium.

In homes, schools and factories lining the Narrows’ steep shores, residents started a new day in a busy wartime port, lighting kitchen fires and making breakfast.

At 8:45 a.m., Imo‘s bow struck Mont-Blanc, tearing open the French ship’s hull and raising a shower of sparks. Fire broke out and spread quickly. Mont-Blanc‘s crew rowed hard in lifeboats for the Dartmouth Shore. A column of black smoke, with flames bursting through, attracted a crowd of spectators. The burning ship drifted towards Halifax, coming to rest at Pier 6.

Shortly before 9:05 a.m., Mont-Blanc exploded. In an instant, Mont-Blanc was transformed from a ship to a 3-kiloton bomb in a busy modern harbor. Adjacent areas of Halifax and Dartmouth were devastated. The shock front went through the town at great velocity. In the blast’s wake, fragments of Mont-Blanc from the size of a pebble to the size of a car mixed with rubble of wrecked ships, railways, houses, and personal belongings in the devastated zone. Windows shattered 100km (62 mi) away. People of all ages, genders, ethnicities, and social classes were affected in various degrees.

On December 7, the mortuary opened and thousands flocked to identify bodies. A blizzard dropped 40cm (16″) of snow. Over 6,000 people lost homes in the blast. Many people were blinded and survivors wore prosthetic eyes throughout their lives.

This was the greatest man-made explosion before Hiroshima, leveling 2 square miles of the city and claiming nearly 2,000 lives. At the museum, newspaper accounts and quotes from survivors are paired with everyday objects recovered from the rubble.

The Halifax Explosion

prosthetic eyes needed by many after The Halifax Explosion

The Halifax Explosion

“The Age of Steam” led to an era of reliable transportation of cargo and revolutionized transatlantic travel. One Nova Scotian, Samuel Cunard, used his initial experiences in steam as a launching pad for greater success on the world stage.

The Age of Steam

Titanic

The most memorable exhibit was on the Titanic. When the “unsinkable” ship sank in 1912, Halifax was the closest major port and became the base for the rescue and recovery operations. One hundred fifty victims were ultimately buried in city cemeteries. Displays include the ship’s only surviving deck chair, a section of wall paneling, a balustrade molding and part of a Newell from the dual starving staircase. Finally a handwritten log kept by the wireless operator in Newfoundland on the night the ship sank was on display.

When Titanic departed Southampton on April 10, 1912, her registered size and tonnage made her, for a short time, the largest ship in the world, in fact, the largest moving object yet created.

The victims were mostly men of all classes and the crew, women and children in third class.

Titanic‘s engineers, none of whom survived, kept her lights working almost to the end. She sank at 2:20 a.m. on 15 April, 1912. There were over 2,200 people aboard and only 705 survived.

Carpathia, a small cargo and passenger liner owned by the Cunard line, came to the rescue. She was 58 miles away. She was too far away to save those in the water, but her rescue of Titanic’s 705 survivors from lifeboats and their delivery to New York won world-wide acclaim. Carpathia took survivors to New York, while the dead would come to Halifax.

The Titanic

log from Newfoundland

The Titanic

The Old Triangle

Since it was still raining when we left the Maritime Museum, and no other museums were open, we headed straight for The Old Triangle, an Irish Alehouse. There I had a beer and Mike a whiskey and we nibbled on a plate of poutine (French fries, beef gravy, and cheese curds). We sat for a long time, chatting with the friendly waitress. I bought an Old Triangle T-shirt.

The Old Triangle

me having a beer at The Old Triangle

Mike at The Old Triangle

Poutine at The Old Triangle

After strolling a bit more, we drove all over Halifax, looking at the downed trees and the damage done by Fiona. Things were slowly getting cleaned up but we passed through many places with trees still downed and without power.

We finally ate the chicken/mashed potato/stuffing meal I had bought on Friday at Sobey’s. It was a late meal because we were still stuffed from the poutine earlier.

We watched two hilarious comedians on Dry Bar Comedy. One was Karen Morgan, a 50+ year-old with 3 kids. The other was Bengt Washburn, who was born in Salt Lake City but grew up in a “large” Utah town of 1,200 people. He was the 5th child in a “small” Mormon family of 7 children. He was in his late 50s with brown hair at the top and gray hair at the back and sides. He said, “Walking away I look like a grandfather and coming at you I look like a youngster.” We also watched Episode 6 of Season 1 of Bitter Daisies, a crime series set in Galicia, Spain.

Steps: 5,704; miles 2.42. Drove 21.6 miles.

The Annapolis Valley

Tuesday, September 27: You can read about our day in the Annapolis Valley here: nova scotia’s minas basin & annapolis valley.

Halifax and surrounds

Crystal Crescent Beach Provincial Park

Wednesday, September 28: Our waitress at The Old Triangle Irish Alehouse gave us a list of things we should do since we extended our stay in Halifax, being forced to cancel our Cape Breton plans by Fiona. Besides Wolfville and the Annapolis Valley, she recommended the Pennant Point Trail at Crystal Crescent Beach. It was just a little south of where we were staying in Spryfield. The provincial park is situated in Sambro Creek. It has three white-sand crescent beaches to enjoy with boardwalks to the first two beaches. The furthest of the three beaches on the trail, around a point, is a “naturist,” or nudist beach. Today was way too windy, foggy and gray for any naked folks, but the coastline was beautiful, from the natural debris like kelp and seaweed ribbons washed up on the shore to the ferns and vegetation to the waves crashing on the rocks. It was quite foggy when we started but by the time we returned the fog had lifted somewhat and the views became clearer. We loved this hike.

Crystal Crescent Beach

On the way back during the hike, I was getting warm so I took off my jacket in which I had kept my phone. I kept trying to put the phone in the side pocket of my leggings but I couldn’t find the pocket. I was baffled because I’d worn these pants many times and I knew they had pockets. Finally, I realized I had put my leggings on inside out!

me with my inside-out leggings

We drove back from Crystal Crescent Beach and saw some nice little coves with colorful boats.

little coves near Halifax

Art Gallery of Nova Scotia

Maude Lewis

At our Airbnb, we showered and went into Halifax to see the museums that had been closed every day since Fiona. We went to the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia where there was a special exhibit about Maude Lewis (1901-1970), a local Nova Scotian who painted local scenes she knew of her life in Nova Scotia. She is one of Canada’s most beloved folk artists. She spent her entire life in areas of Digby and Yarmouth and she captured the spirit of maritime life.

Born with congenital disorders, Maude was physically small and frail. Medical experts now think, based on photographs and descriptions of how her condition worsened, she was born with juvenile rheumatoid arthritis. At the turn of the 20th century, few understood the degenerative and extremely painful nature of this condition.

Maude used her own tiny home as a canvas for her art. The actual house she lived in, renovated extensively, was on display in the museum and showcased Maude’s talents. She painted the doors and windows and nearly every interior surface. There was no electricity or running water. The large wood stove was used for cooking and was the only source of heat for the house.

The door to Maude’s house was always open, inviting travelers to stop to buy a painting, visit with Maude and her husband Everett, or snap a photo.

After her death in 1970 and Everett’s in 1979, the Maude Lewis Painted House Society of Digby took the initial steps to protect the Lewis home, but it quickly deteriorated. The Province of Nova Scotia purchased the badly decayed structure for the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia in 1984, and removed it from Marshalltown to save what remained of the structure and household items.

In the fall of 1996, the house was dismantled into 10 large sections and removed to a treatment site where initial conservation was completed. It was reassembled in the gallery and has been on exhibition since June 1998.

Maude Lewis developed a very particular vision of Nova Scotia, one that was nostalgic and optimistic. In a distinctive style, she consistently depicted her region. The harbours reflect the Annapolis Basin, St. Mary’s Bay, and the Bay of Fundy, with the distinctive high wharves needed to deal with the extreme height differences between high and low tides. She painted her countryside with the trees, flowers and animals found in Digby County. We see farmers and loggers in the familiar red woolen coats of rural Nova Scotia, and oxen with their distinctive Nova Scotian yokes.

She didn’t show parts of the province she didn’t intimately know herself. There are no scenes of Halifax, Cape Breton, or the villages and churches of the South Shores. She painted only the country she knew.

After Maude died, her husband Everett continued to paint his own scenes of Nova Scotia.

Art Gallery of Nova Scotia

Maude Lewis home

Maude Lewis

Maude Lewis home

photo of Maude Lewis home before it was renovated

painting by Maude Lewis

Hooked rugs of Deanne Fitzpatrick

Deanne Fitzpatrick is a fabric artist, rug hooker and writer based in Amherst, Nova Scotia. She is widely recognized as one of the world’s prominent modern rug hookers. Born in Placentia Bay, Newfoundland, she began making hooked rugs in 1990.

The 22 hooked rugs displayed were designed and created by the artist in 2016. Each of the images features saltbox houses that sit between crashing waves and windy skies, and illustrate Fitzpatrick’s relationship with, and ideas about, the notion of home. They often depict maritime geography and architecture.

Rug hooking has remained one of Nova Scotia’s most prominent and widely practiced art forms for generations. Hooked rugs often kept out drafts and brought comfort to a bare wood floor. In the past, local women would use old clothing scraps to create the rugs, which they sold to tourists.

Deanne Fitzpatrick’s hooked rugs

Miss Chef’s Wet Dream by Kent Monkman (b. 1965)

The two boats depicted in the painting Miss Chef’s Wet Dream represent the point of collision between European settlers and Indigenous Nations; the contrast between worlds is stark.

On the failing raft, Jesus Christ, Queen Victoria, and Marie Antoinette stand beside dreary men of the church and pilgrims. The pale characters sit alongside rats, showing the great divide between social classes of their time.

In the canoe, the figures are at the peak of health and vitality.

Monkman is from Fish River Cree Nation in Manitoba and currently lives and works in Toronto, Ontario. His work explores themes of colonization, sexuality, loss and resilience across a variety of mediums.

Miss Chef’s Wet Dream by Kent Monkman

Halifax Harbourfront

We intended to visit the Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21, but we finished at the art gallery too late. Instead we strolled along the harbourfront boardwalk as the sun finally started to peek out of the clouds.

We saw the HMCS Sackville, Canada’s Naval Memorial, “The Last Corvette.”

A sailing ship floated by filled with passengers.

I enjoyed a Tidal Pool Wine at the Beer Garden, but it was pretty deserted, unlike on Sunday when it was packed and lively. Mike had a beer.

The sky was beautiful with blue skies punctuated by ponderous clouds.

Walking back up to the food street, we saw the Sailor Statue representing valiant young Canadians who served in both war and peace. It is symbolic of the thousands of sailors who were instrumental in the victory at sea and fitting acknowledgement to those who continue to maintain the peace.

Halifax Harbourfront

HMCS Sackville

Halifax Harbourfront

Beer Garden

me at the Beer Garden

Sailor Statue

pretty mural

We enjoyed a fabulous dinner on the patio at Antojo Tacos & Tequila. I had Chiles Relleno, cornmeal tempura batter poblano pepper stuffed with roasted corn, black beans, jalapeños, jack and cream cheese, smoked salsa, cotija and cilantro. Mike had Pork Carnitas Tacos: pork confit, pickled onion, roasted jalapeño sauce, cilantro. We shared a Sopa de Lima: Yucatan-style lime soup, shredded chicken, avocado, red onion, crispy tortilla. I was a bit disappointed in my chiles relleno so I insisted on ordering something else: Baja Fish Taco: Haddock in a crispy charcoal batter, crunch slaw, roasted red pepper sauce, citrus crema, and green onions. Delicious!

To top off our feast, we ordered a chocolate brownie dessert with dulce leche ice cream. 🙂

For my drink I had a Jon Like: jose curevo tradicional silver / hendrick’s gin lillet / cucumber / grapefruit / tonic. Yum! I have a real fondness for drinks with cucumber in them these days. Mike had a flight of 3 different tequilas.

It was an excellent ending to our time in Halifax.

Mike at Antojo Tacos & Tequila

Antojo Tacos & Tequila

my drink at Antojo Tacos & Tequila

Antojo Tacos & Tequila

Chile Rellenos

Pork Carnitas Tacos

Baja Fish Tacos

Chocolate brownie dessert

Me with Mike at Antojo Tacos & Tequila

We headed back to the apartment where we watched Virgin River and prepared to move on the next morning to New Brunswick.

Here’s a video of some live action from the sea and Halifax.

Steps: 12,988; miles 5.51. Drove 42 miles.

twenty twenty-two: a year of north-south travel, a tragic war in ukraine, & final passings

wanderessence1025 December 27, 2022

Twenty twenty-two was: A year of traveling south, further south and then north, from the bottom of the eastern seaboard to the top, a vertical kind of year: a south Florida road trip to Miami, the Everglades and the Keys; a three-week trip to Ecuador, our first ever to South America; and a trip to the Canadian Maritimes. A year of obstacles to travel: a national strike by indigenous people in Ecuador and Hurricane Fiona in the Maritimes. A year of walking outdoors, bicycling, and yoga practice. Another year of our eldest son living at home and continuing to work on his college degree. A year of Alex meeting a charming young woman, Jandira, originally from Angola, though she’s been in the U.S. a long time. A year of my daughter completing a course in Paralegal studies and beginning a new job search. A year where our daughter lost both of her pets, her dog Bagel and her cat Chicken Little. A year of our youngest son continuing to live in Nicaragua and the family going to visit him at the end of December. A year of finally getting our wills and trusts done. A year of meeting old friends & family: my brother who moved recently to Georgia and who I hadn’t seen in ages; Lisa, who I met in Egypt in 2007, and Ed, who I worked with at the State Department in 2007. A year of watching my father continue to decline with Alzheimer’s. A year when my father sadly passed away just before Christmas but he specified he didn’t want a funeral. A year of Alex graduating from Northern Virginia Community College and getting accepted into George Mason University to continue with his Computer Science degree. A year of stunning revelations from the January 6 Committee about the attempted overthrow of our government by a sitting president; the horrifying Russian invasion of Ukraine; a tragic school shooting in an Uvalde, Texas elementary school, where 19 children and 2 teachers were murdered in cold blood; and a crowd crush in Seoul, South Korea during Halloween celebrations, in which hundreds of young people were killed or injured. A year of the right-wing illegitimate Supreme Court striking down Roe v. Wade, suddenly taking away the right for millions of women to decide the fate of their own bodies. A year of Spanish studies on Duolingo, with the addition of Arabic, French and Italian. A year of favorite movies: The Worst Person in the World, Drive My Car, Downton Abbey: A New Era, The Forgiven, and Norwegian Wood. A year of reading 58/55 books for the year (My Year in Books 2022). A year in which the Merriam-Webster word of the year (much belated in my opinion) was “gaslighting,” a noun that means “1) psychological manipulation of a person usually over an extended period of time that causes the victim to question the validity of their own thoughts, perception of reality, or memories and typically leads to confusion, loss of confidence and self-esteem, uncertainty of one’s emotional or mental stability, and a dependency on the perpetrator; 2) the act or practice of grossly misleading someone especially for one’s own advantage.” A year in which the Oxford word of the year was “goblin mode,” a slang term which describes “a type of behaviour which is unapologetically self-indulgent, lazy, slovenly, or greedy, typically in a way that rejects social norms or expectations.” A year when the TIME Person of the Year was Volodymyr Zelensky of Ukraine. A year of the U.S. hitting and surpassing 1,090,204 COVID deaths and the world hitting 6.678 million deaths.

In January, I: hunkered down in my house trying desperately to stay warm in snow & sub-freezing temperatures and trying to avoid the huge surge in omicron; watched the news about thousands stranded overnight on 48 miles of I-95 due to a snowstorm and felt relieved I hadn’t been there; watched as Biden commemorated the 1/6 insurrection and blamed “the former president” for fomenting violence and the Big Lie; took down our Christmas tree and decorations; made my first video/slideshow on Chicago, followed by one on Utah; ate chili rellenos, chili dogs, BBQ shrimp flatbread, and Thai basil chili sauce with shrimp; chatted with Jayne on Zoom; celebrated my son’s new job at an orthopedic clinic; chanted at a contemplative taizé service; and started studying Spanish (again). Read 7 books out of my goal of 55, with my favorite being Chances Are … by Richard Russo; streamed some good movies, including The Lost Daughter, Promising Young Woman, and A Bottle in the Gaza Sea. Finished The Miniaturist and started watching Station Eleven, Mare of Easttown, and The Girl from Oslo.

My January bullet journal page

the view out my window 1/3/22

The CCT on 1/7/22

In February, I: touched base with Lisa, my old friend from Egypt, about visiting her in Prince Edward Island and Atlantic Canada in September; had a pedicure, haircut, hair straightening, my annual physical and eye doctor visits; walked 3 miles daily and did yoga weekly; enjoyed my monthly massage; celebrated Alex’s first week on the job with an Ethiopian dinner; watched movies Parallel Mothers, Death on the Nile, The Worst Person in the World, and Drive My Car; finished Mare of Easttown and season 2 of Emily in Paris; got Spanish songs from Adam on WhatsApp; posted videos on Arizona and southern Minnesota; finally met with a lawyer about updating our wills; chatted with Jayne; celebrated Valentine’s Day at Clarity; felt anger, disgust, and shock over Putin’s invasion of Ukraine and the terrifying possibility of World War III; celebrated Mike’s 68^th birthday at Lebanese Taverna; enjoyed another birthday celebration for both Mike and Alex at home with Barbara, topping it off with humor from Saturday Night Live. Read 6 books out of my goal of 55 for the year (bringing my total up to 13/55), my favorites being The Body in Question, The Startup Wife, and Radical Acceptance: Embracing Your Life with the Heart of a Buddha; mourned the loss of 948,215 people in the U.S., and 5.9 million in the world, from two years of COVID.

February bullet journal

Mike at Clarity for Valentine’s Day

Valentine’s Day at Clarity

Dinner at Clarity

Russia Invades Ukraine

me with Mike at Lebanese Taverna for his birthday

The atrocities get underway

In March, I: listened to President Biden’s State of the Union, visited the National Museum of African American History & Culture and finally saw the “Great Wave of Kanagawa” mural in Georgetown. Celebrated Alex’s 31^stbirthday at Artie’s, sang happy birthday to him over carrot cake, and enjoyed a lavender pedicure. Watched One Night in Miami in preparation for our South Florida trip. Read 4 books out of my goal of 55 for the year (bringing my total to 17/55), my favorite being Intimacies by Katie Kitamura. Made two video/slideshows on northern Minnesota and Wisconsin. Took a road trip to South Florida, where I first stopped at Falls Park on the Reedy in Greenville, South Carolina. Visited my brother Robbie and his partner at their new house in Columbus, Georgia, where we commiserated over politics, ate sushi and chile rellenos, and drank sake and margaritas. Bought beach cover-ups at Ron Jon Surf Shop in Cocoa Beach, Florida. Met Mike at the Miami Airport and visited the Art Deco Historic District on South Beach, saw an adorable pink lifeguard tower, and spent a feisty evening on Calle Ocho in Little Havana among roosters and coffee stores. Watched Mike puff on a cigar at Guantanamera. Visited Wynwood Walls, an outdoor museum of funky international street art. Wandered among orchids, coral trees, palms, cyads, and a rainforest at Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden. Spent a barefoot morning lollygagging on South Beach and admiring the colorful art deco lifeguard stands then spent the afternoon basking in the sun at Bill Baggs Cape Florida State Park. Returned to Little Havana for another night of Cuban food and a history lesson on the failed Bay of Pigs Invasion (April 17, 1961) and paid tribute at the Eternal Torch in Honor of the 2506^th Brigade, many of whom lost their lives or were incarcerated in horrible conditions in Cuban prisons. Hiked the Anhinga Trail and the Gumbo Limbo Trail at Everglades National Park, and then took the Flamingo Adventures Boat ride where we saw American crocodiles and manatees. Walked amidst tropical hardwood hammocks, mahogany trees, sabal palms, cypress and mangroves. Ate a delicious and lively dinner at Yardie Spice, a Jamaican restaurant in Florida City, with friendly J.B. hosting. Took a 15-mile bike ride at Shark Valley Visitor Center and then sped over the river of grass in an air boat at Gator Park. Went kayaking in a tandem with Mike in Big Cypress National Preserve where we communed with alligators and birds of all feathers; ended up bickering as we got tangled up in mangrove roots. Visited two state parks in the Florida Keys and shopped, strolled, nibbled and imbibed in Key West all the way to the Southernmost Point in the Continental U.S., which is 90 miles from Cuba and 150 miles from Miami. Enjoyed a Hoochie Mama Mojito and key lime pie at Paradise Restaurant in Key West as a rooster strutted his stuff near our table. Stopped in Little Havana one more time on our way back through Miami so Mike could stock up on cigars for his yearly buddies’ gathering in July. Took a water taxi through Fort Lauderdale’s Inland Waterway and admired the mansions of the rich and famous. Wandered up and down Las Olas Boulevard, enjoyed dinner at Cuba Libre and happened to hit the Las Olas Oceanside Park Market on Saturday morning. Headed north to St. Augustine, where we explored the Historic Old Town, the Castillo San Marcos National Monument, the St. Augustine Light Station and Fort Mantazas National Monument. Enjoyed a delicious lunch on the breezy rooftop of Salt Life Food Shack and saw the old Ponce de Leon Hotel that now houses Flagler College. Topped off our time in Florida at the Tini Martini Bar. On the way home, stopped to visit Mike’s college friends, Bob and Barbara Trott, and had lunch with Sarah in Richmond.

March bullet journal

Lake Anne in Reston

National Museum of African American History & Culture

Rosa Parks

National Museum of African American History & Culture

Dinner at Arties to celebrate Alex’s 31st birthday

The gravel trail in my neighborhood

Carrot cake for the birthday boy

Falls Park on the Reedy in Greenville, SC

Greenville, SC

Falls Park on the Reedy in Greenville, SC

my brother Rob & me in Columbus, GA

Columbus Riverwalk

Rob, me and Rob in Columbus, GA

Columbus, GA

Ron Jon Surf Shop in Cocoa Beach, FL

Art Deco District in South Beach, Miami

me in Little Havana, Miami

Mike smokes a cigar at Guantanamera in Little Havana

Rooster in Little Havana

Lifeguard tower in South Beach

Cape Florida Light House on Key Biscayne

Bikeride through Snake Valley, Everglades National Park

Alligator in the Everglades

Mike with his alligator friends at Gator Park

Alligator in the Everglades

Blue heron

Everglades National Park

Strangler fig in the Everglades

John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park

Key West

Southernmost poin in the U.S., Key West, FL

bar in Key West

Smallest Bar in Key West

Inland waterways of Fort Lauderdale, FL

me in Fort Lauderdale

Fort Lauderdale

me in Cuba Libre, Las Olas Blvd, Fort Lauderdale

Mike in Cuba Libre, Las Olas Blvd, Fort Lauderdale

Castillo de San Marcos National Monument, St. Augustine, FL

St. Augustine, FL

Flagler College at the Old Ponce de Leon Hotel, St. Augustine

St. Augustine Light Station grounds

Salt Life Food Shack in St. Augustine

Tini Martini Bar, St.Augustine

Lake Newport, Reston, VA

Cute yard setup in Reston

In April, I: made video/slideshows on Michigan and Croatia; walked through the bluebells at Riverbend; listened to Brother and JOSEPH at the Barns of Wolf Trip. Visited my dad in Yorktown and, sadly, found him totally bedridden and declining. Encouraged Sarah to quit her job and go back to school, found out her dog Bagel had cancer and had to be put down, enjoyed a celebratory 38th birthday dinner with her at Pinky’s, and walked (Sarah ran) the Monument Avenue 10k in Richmond, after which we had a falling out and later made up. Got my second COVID booster, got a haircut and a massage, and had a Dexascan and mammogram, with normal results. Enjoyed a long chat with Jayne and a fun meeting with Leah at Pearl Dive Oyster Palace. Walked daily and did yoga. Ate sushi, bibimbap, and flatbreads, and drank plum sake. Celebrated Easter with Barbara, Mike and Alex at home. Felt happy that Alex met a girl, Jandira, and started seeing her. Read 5 books out of my goal of 55 for the year (bringing my total to 22/55), with my favorites being Stiltsville, Klara and the Sun, and The Country Under My Skin: A Memoir of Love and War by Gioconda Belli; watched movies in the theater, including Mothering Sunday, The Rose Maker, and Everything Everywhere All at Once. Finished Nashville and started watching Better Things and Servant of the People with Volodymyr Zelenskyy. Mourned the loss of 991,231 people in the U.S., and 6.2 million in the world, from two+ years of COVID.

April bullet journal

bibimbap at Maru Korean

lunch with Leah at Pearl Dive Oyster Palace

Mike at YamaChen’s Sushi

me at YamaChen’s Sushi

a walk through the CCT on Easter Sunday

rosebud

bluebells at Riverbend

Riverbend Park

wild blue phlox at Riverbend

azaleas

cherry blossoms

Monument Avenue 10K in Richmond

Monument Avenue 10K

Mile 6

cheering squads

mural in Richmond

a deer on the Glade Trail

dogwoods

a yummy salad at Bear Branch Tavern

In May, I: made video/slideshows on Croatia, Boston and Miami; studied Spanish through The Great Courses and Duolingo; planned and booked our trip to Ecuador; worked steadily on my memoir; enjoyed margaritas and nachos on Cinco de Mayo; celebrated Mother’s Day with Alex and Mike at Agora Tyson’s; ate at Kalypso, Ariake, and the H-Mart Food Court. Was infuriated by a leaked draft opinion of the Supreme Court’s intent to overturn Roe v. Wade and a woman’s right to abortion, shoving us back into the Dark Ages. Met my friend Ed at Fontaine Bistro in Old Town Alexandria for the first time in over 2 years. Visited my bedridden dad in Yorktown, and felt encouraged to find him still eating heartily. Contributed to Sarah’s new Paralegal course at VCU, which she started on May 16. Walked daily and did yoga and bicycled weekly. Went on a scavenger hunt of sorts with blogging buddy Toby Oberg at the National Gallery of Art and then joined our husbands for dinner at Oyamel Cocina Mexicana. Was horrified by another mass shooting at a Uvalde, Texas elementary school, where 19 children and 2 teachers were murdered in cold blood. Continued to be furious with elected officials who fail to take action on gun control, including background checks and a ban on assault rifles. Read 8 books out of my goal of 55 for the year (bringing my total to 30/55), with my favorites being Cañar: A Year in the Highlands of Ecuador, The Old Man Who Read Love Stories, and The Panama Hat Trail; watched movies in the theater, including Downton Abbey: A New Era. Finished Station Eleven and started watching Hacks. Mourned the loss of 1,004,730 people in the U.S., and 6.3 million in the world, from two+ years of COVID.

May bullet journal

chicks along the lake

Mike and Alex smoking Cuban cigars on Cinco de Mayo

drink at Agora Tyson on Mother’s Day

Agora Tyson’s

me at Kalypso at Lake Anne

Lake Anne in Reston

a yummy frittata

crepe at Fontaine Bistro

peonies

National Gallery of Art

Paul Cézanne

Paul Gauguin

The Bathers by Paul Gauguin

Vincent Van Gogh

The Favorite of the Emir by Jean Joseph Benjamin Constant

Young Spanish Woman with Guitar by Auguste Renoir

Woman of the “Orient” by Henri Lehmann

Banks of the Seine, Vétheuil by Claude Monet

Mike and me in the atrium at the National Gallery of Art

The Notch of the White Mountains by Thomas Cole

gallery at National Gallery of Art

Nonchaloir (Repose) by John Singer Sargent

The Adoration of the Magi by Sandro Botticelli

National Gallery of Art

Louis Maurice Boutet de Monvel’s Joan of Arc Series

Green River Cliffs, Wyoming by Thomas Moran

John & Toby Oberg, me and Mike at Oyamel

another slaughter at a U.S. school

Police response in question

In June, I: studied Spanish through The Great Courses and Duolingo. Did yoga, walked and rode my bike to get in shape for riding down Chimborozo Volcano in Ecuador. Visited my bedridden dad in Yorktown, and felt encouraged to find him still eating heartily. Enjoyed wine and snacks outdoors at Jardín in Richmond with my daughter Sarah. Signed wills and trusts at our lawyer’s office. Packed for our trip to Ecuador, but had to cancel the night before our departure due to nationwide strikes, protests and road closures. Started making backup plans to go to Colombia instead of Ecuador. Had a mediocre meal at Chuy’s and enjoyed Thai food in the lovely living room setting at Sisters Thai. Celebrated Father’s Day by having lunch at Union Market and later enjoyed a cookout with salmon and summer corn. Walked with Poonam at Eakin Park and shared a vegetarian lunch made by her Nepalese cook; another day we walked around Lakes Anne and Newport. Was furious that our right-wing illegitimate Supreme Court struck down Roe v. Wade, suddenly taking away the right for millions of women to decide the fate of their own bodies. Ate Ethiopian at Enatye and strolled around Reston Town Center after dinner. Watched the January 6 Committee hearings and learned more about Trump’s despicable sedition and attempted overthrow of the government. Wondered again if there will ever be any justice for these criminal traitors. Read 4 books out of my goal of 55 for the year (bringing my total to 34/55), with my favorites being The Expatriates and Our House in the Clouds: Building a Second Life in the Andes of Ecuador. Felt excited that the Danish political series Borgen has returned to Netflix after a long hiatus, and we dove back in. Watched one movie in the theater, the Iranian Hit the Road, and others on TV, including No Escape about Americans getting caught up in protests in an unnamed Asian country. Finished This Is Us and the French series Call My Agent! Continued our perpetual mourning for the loss of 1,015,933 people in the U.S., and 6.3 million in the world, from two+ years of COVID.

June bullet journal

the Glade Trail

Mike at Sisters Thai

Me at Sisters Thai

Sisters Thai

Union Market

Ferns along the gravel trail

Roe v. Wade struck down

Ethiopian food at Enatye

Aide: Trump fought to lead armed mob

hydrangeas around Lake Anne

In July, I: continued my Spanish studies through The Great Courses and Duolingo. Rebooked our Ecuador trip when the strikes ended at the end of June. Did yoga, walked and rode my bike to get in shape for riding down Chimborozo Volcano in Ecuador. Was shocked at the assassination of Shinzo Abe, the longest serving prime minister of Japan. Visited my bedridden dad in Yorktown, encouraged by his hearty eating, and then had lunch with Sarah in Richmond at C&M Gallery Restaurant. Enjoyed dinner at a Russian-Uzbek restaurant, RusUz in Alexandria and lunch at Tiki Thai in Reston. Watched more of the January 6 Committee hearings and learned about Trump’s utter inaction during the hours of the insurrection. Continue to be doubtful there will ever be any justice for these traitorous criminals. Took Mike to the airport for his annual get together with his high school friends in Ohio. Enjoyed a Korean meal with Alex at Maru. Felt wary when the WHO declared monkeypox a global emergency. Welcomed Mike back home after his weekend away, just in time to go to Ecuador. Flew by way of Miami to Quito, took the “Old Town Walking Tour” from Lonely Planet Ecuador, and came face-to-face with the tourist police, who were out in force protecting tourists from the criminal elements. Enjoyed pizza at Bandidos del Páramo. Took the TelefériQo up Volcán Pichincha on a foggy day and when we didn’t see anything, we came back down and explored the quirky neighborhood, La Floresta. Visited Casa Museo Guayasamin, where we explored the artist’s work, his studio and his stunning home. Got massages and soaked in hot baths for a day at Termes de Papallacta. Took the TelefériQo up to Ruca Pichincha (again) on our last sunny Friday in Quito, and this time we hiked up and enjoyed amazing views of all the volcanoes surrounding the city. Flew from Quito to Cuenca, settled into our Airbnb apartment and took a walking tour of the city with the excellent guide, Gustavo Jiménez Morales. Took a tour of market towns east of Cuenca with Gustavo on Sunday, stopping for herbal tea in San Bartolomé, buying Panama hats in Sigsig, wandering through the well-tended Chordeleg, and checking out an Ikat factory outside of Gualaceo. Read 4 books out of my goal of 55 for the year (bringing my total to 38/55), with my favorites being Convenience Store Woman and The Farm on the River of Emeralds. Watched movies in the theater, including Where the Crawdads Sing, The Forgiven and Both Sides of the Blade. Finished the T.V. series Parenthood and the Australian series Offspring (I’ll miss the adorable Nina).

July bullet journal

me at RusUz

Tiki Thai

Old Town Quito

view from La Ronda of El Panecillo & La Virgen de Quito

Basilica del Voto Nacional

view of Quito from Basilica del Voto Nacional

me at Casa Warmi in Floresta

Ochoymedia in Floresta

Casa Museo Guayasamín

Termas de Papallacta

view of Quito from Ruca Pichincha

Mike and me with Cotopaxi behind us

Cuenca, Ecuador

Prohibido Museo de Arte Extremo

relief carving in Cuenca

the flower market in Cuenca

door to Catedral de la Immaculada Concepción

Catedral de la Immaculada Concepción in Cuenca

Countryside on the way to the three markets

me with Gustavo above San Bartolomé

guinea pigs in San Bartolomé

store in San Bartolomé

me in San Bartolomé

herb tea prepared by Samira in San Bartolomé

Gustavo and a guitar-maker

Indigenous woman in Sigsig

Panama hat cooperative in Sigsig

Me and Mike with our new Panama hats

Panama hat cooperative in Sigsig

hornado at the Sigsig market

painted trees in Gualaceo

guitar in Gualaceo

Ikat factory outside Gualaceo

In August, I: Continued explorations of Ecuador with Mike. Imbibed in churros & chocolate at Dos Chorreras Chocolateria, where we found a shiny red car piled with chocolates and a disco ball overhead. Climbed the tower of the New Cathedral of Cuenca for views over its iconic Czech blue-tiled domes, Parque Calderón, and the city. Enjoyed an off-beat dinner at Consuelo, topped off by the strange dessert concoction of merengue and ice cream cones called Espumilla. Visited the Museo del Sombrero de Paja Toquilla to learn about the Panama hat. Experienced a beating at the hands of limpias, powerful women who clean out bad energy from the soul, at Mercado 10 de Agosto. Visited the Homero Ortega Hat Museum and bought a vintage Panama hat after picking up our rental car, a Toyota Yaris, from the airport. Ventured to Parque Nacional Cajas, where we hiked around Laguna Toreadorra amidst spongy mosses, succulents, Polylepis trees, and cacti in the high grassland known as páramo. Learned about the ancient Incan and Cañari cultures, and the various ethnic groups of Ecuador at the Pumapungo Museum in Cuenca. Ate cuy (guinea pig) at Guajibamba and then enjoyed dessert on the rooftop terrace of Negroni while admiring the blue domes of the New Cathedral. Bought yet another Panama hat! Drove up the Pan American highway to Ingapirca where we climbed the Temple of the Sun and learned about the Incas and Cañaris. Took a 45-minute loop hike to see Cara del Inca (a cliff with a human face) and drank Chicha de Jora, a corn beer. Enjoyed our stay at our first hacienda, Posada Ingapirca, where we shivered all night and in the cold morning shower. Enjoyed a city celebration and parade in Riobamba and ate tapas at Amona, while children stood outside the locked door gesturing for handouts (hands to mouth). Drove to Baños, a total waste of time. Felt disappointed that our biking guide, who we’d booked to take us biking down Volcán Chimborazo, got Covid and had to cancel. Drove up to Chimborazo anyway on a sunny day and had magnificent views of the symbiotic clouds caressing the volcano, and of the elegant vicuña (wild relatives of the llama). Drove from our adorable Hostal Huasicama in Latacunga to Tigua, where we bought bright paintings of Andean life, to Laguna Quilotoa, a volcanic crater lake. Hiked down the steep gravelly trail to the bottom, slipping and sliding the whole way, and then had to wait a long time for a donkey and horse to take us back up (I was having trouble breathing due to elevation). Hiked around Laguna Limpiopungo at Parque Nacional Cotopaxi in the cold and rain. Enjoyed the festive atmosphere at Hacienda Los Mortinos with its groups of Dutch tourists; finally warmed up when staff lit the woodstove in our room. Rode my horse, Dorado, with guide Edizon and Mike into Cotopaxi park, where all three of us were pelted with freezing rain and only had views of the volcano once the clouds lifted. Nearly fell off my horse when he decided to jump a stream rather than wade through it. Explored the lovely Hacienda Cusín, once a working ranch but now a hotel with exquisite grounds and interiors, near Otavalo. Stayed at the Las Palmeras Inn in Otavalo, another hacienda, and spent much of Saturday shopping at the Otavalo market, the largest market in Ecuador and the largest market of its kind in South America. Flew to Miami, where we spent the night, and then homeward on an early morning flight. Celebrated Alex’s completion of his semester with a dinner at Artie’s. Bid adieu to Alex as he moved into a house with some old friends in Alexandria (not far from where we live). Rode my bike, did yoga, walked, went to the gym, and started booking our trip to the Canadian Maritimes. Saw Emily the Criminal and Anne of Green Gables (in preparation to visit Prince Edward Island). Read 4 books out of my goal of 55 for the year (bringing my total to 42/55), my favorite being Rules for Visiting. Continued our perpetual mourning for the loss of 1,043,838 people in the U.S., and 6.49 million in the world, from two+ years of COVID.

August bullet journal

Cuenca

Dos Chorreras Chocolateria in Cuenca

Blue domes of Cuenca’s New Cathedral

me at Consuelo

Mercado 10 de Agosto

Espumilla

sporting our hats at the Museo del Sombrero de Paja Toquilla

Mercado 10 de Agosto

a limpia cleanses Mike’s soul

Mercado 10 de Agosto

Homero Ortega Hats

Mirador del Turi iin Cuenca

Mike at Park Cajas

me at Park Cajas

Parque Nacional Cajas

murals in Cuenca

Museo Pumapungo

The New Cathedral

flower market in Cuenca

another Panama hat for me

Cuenca’s barranco

Ingapirca

Sun Temple at Ingapirca

Ingapirca

Cara del Inca at Ingapirca

Mike at Posada Ingapirca

trout at Posada Ingapirca

Posada Ingapirca

Riobamba

me in Riobamba

a city parade in Riobamba

Riobamba

view of Chimborazo from Riobamba

me in Riobamba

sheep on the way to Chimborazo

vicuña at Chimborazo

plants at Chimborazo

the dry side of Chimborazo

Chimborazo

mural in Hostal Huasicama

landscape on the way to Quilatoa

Cañon del Toachi

Laguna Quilotoa

path down to Laguna Quilotoa

Laguna Quilotoa

driving back to Latacunga

view of Cotopaxi

Laguna Limpiopungo at Parque Nacional Cotopaxi

Parque Nacional Cotopaxi

Tambopaxi

Hacienda Los Mortiños

view from our room at Hacienda Los Mortiños

Hacienda Los Mortiños

plants at Hacienda Los Mortiños

Mike and me on horseback in front of Cotopaxi

me on horseback in front of Cotopaxi

Mike and Cotopaxi

Volcán Cotopaxi

view out of our room

Volcán Cotopaxi

Hacienda Cusín

Tigua-style painting at Hacienda Cusín

library in Hacienda Cusín

Hacienda Cusín

murals at Hacienda Cusín

Hacienda Cusín

Las Palmeras Inn

llama in residence at Las Palmeras Inn

Las Palmeras Inn

our cottage at Las Palmeras Inn

Volcán Imbabura

house at Las Palmeras Inn

Las Palmeras Inn

pizza in Otavalo

Otavalo Market

Mike’s strong shot at Maytushka in Otavalo

me at Las Palmeras

view at Lake Audubon in Reston

Lake Newport

trail in Reston

In September, I: Walked, did yoga, rode my bike, and went to the gym in the never-ending battle to keep the pounds at bay. Got my bivalent COVID booster (#5 shot), which is supposed to protect against omicron and other variants. Celebrated my sister-in-law’s birthday at L’Auberge Chez Francoís, reviving a long-neglected family tradition. Walked with Poonam on the Glade Trail and when she fell and couldn’t get up, felt helpless to pull her up by myself. Mourned the death of Queen Elizabeth at 96 in sympathy for my British friends. Ate soup dumplings at Yu Noodles, and tried Padack at Seven Corners for the first time. Went to the Middle East Institute Art Gallery to see “More Than Your Eyes Can see: Contemporary Photography from the Arab World,” then enjoyed excellent grilled pulpo (octopus) and Tostones con salsa de mango at Del Sur Café in D.C. Visited my ailing father in Yorktown and met Sarah at Brambly Park Winery, where we had a huge falling out. Started physical therapy for pain in my right hip. Headed for Nova Scotia, Canada only to find out that the Category 4 Hurricane Fiona was heading that way. Picked up Mike at the Halifax airport just in time for us to hunker down in our Airbnb while Hurricane Fiona blew through overnight. Lost power for two days because of the storm. Drove an hour southwest to Mahone Bay to find coffee since no place in Halifax had power. Wandered around the colorful UNESCO town of Lunenburg and explored the fishing village of Blue Rocks, “Lunenburg’s answer to Peggy’s Cove.” Enjoyed our first fish cakes and seafood chowder at the Salt Shaker Deli. Clambered around the rocky coastal shelf at Peggy’s Cove and admired its stalwart lighthouse along with hordes of tourists. Enjoyed the amazing costal views and colorful vegetation as we hiked at Polly’s Cove. Paid respects to the victims at the SwissAir Flight 111 Memorial from the 1998 crash in St. Margaret’s Bay. Enjoyed mussels, chowder, and Digby scallops at Bluenose II Café in Halifax and then strolled along the lively waterfront boardwalk. Learned about Halifax history at the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, including the 1912 Titanic sinking, the 1917 Halifax Explosion, and the huge numbers of shipwrecks off the shore. Enjoyed beer and whiskey and poutine at The Old Triangle, where the talkative waitress gave us a list of recommended spots to see. Drove to the Annapolis Valley and the Minas Basin, where we walked along the bay floor at low tide at Blomidon Provincial Park. Enjoyed a picnic lunch at Hall’s Harbour and then did a wine tasting at Domaine de Grand Pré. Enjoyed my first lobster roll at McKelvie’s in Halifax. Walked the Pennant Point Trail past the naturist Crystal Crescent Beach, but it was too cold to see any nude bathers. Admired the folksy paintings of Maud Lewis at the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia. Imbibed in tequila and tacos at Antojo Tacos & Tequila after having beers at the Beer Garden. Strolled the boardwalks through breezy marshes at the Sackville Waterfowl Park. Went from our new apartment in Saint John, New Brunswick to hike the Laverty Falls trail at Fundy National Park. Had an argument with Mike about books over Indian food at Thandi and then gave the waiter grief about his patriarchal attitude. Sadly finished one of our favorite TV series, The Bridge. Saw Mrs. Harris Goes to Paris at Cinema Arts Theatre. Finished 2 books out of my goal of 55 for the year (bringing my total to 44/55), my favorite being Born a Crime by Trevor Noah. Continued our perpetual mourning for the loss of 1,053,412 people in the U.S., and 6.53 million in the world, from two+ years of COVID.

September bullet journal

Alex

L’Auberge Chez Francois menu

L’Auberge Chez Francois

Alex and Barbara

Alex and me at L’Auberge Chez Francois

Alex, Barbara, Mike and me at L’Auberge Chez Francois

dinner at Yu Noodles

dinner at Padack

“More Than Your Eyes Can See: Contemporary Photography from the Arab World”

me at Del Sur Cafe in D.C.

Mike at Del Sur Cafe in D.C.

view from Del Sur Cafe

Hurricane Fiona on track to hit the Maritimes

our Airbnb in Halifax

Lunenburg

Blue Rocks

Mike at Blue Rocks

Blue Rocks

me at Blue Rocks

Blue Rocks near Lunenberg, Nova Scotia

Mike at Peggy’s Cove

Peggy’s Cove

Mike at Peggy’s Cove

Peggy’s Cove

Polly’s Cove

Halifax Waterfront Boardwalk

The Beer Garden in Halifax

mural in Halifax

Maritime Museum of the Atlantic

The Old Triangle

Blomidon Provincial Park

Annapolis Valley

Hall’s Harbour

Wolfville, Nova Scotia

Domaine de Grand Pré

Crystal Crescent Beach

Crystal Crescent Beach, near Halifax, NS

Crystal Crescent Beach

monument in Halifax

Maude Lewis house at the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia

Art Gallery of Nova Scotia

Halifax Harbour

me at Halifax Harbour

me at Antojo Tacos & Tequila

Sackville Waterfowl Park

me at Sackville Waterfowl Park

Sackville Waterfowl Park

Mike at Sackville Waterfowl Park

Sackville Waterfowl Park

covered bridge at Sackville Waterfowl Park

Sackville Waterfowl Park

Laverty Falls hike at Fundy National Park

Laverty Falls hike

Mike on Laverty Falls hike

Laverty Falls

Laverty Falls hike

Laverty Falls

me at Laverty Falls

marina at Alma

Saint John, New Brunswick

sunset at Saint John

flower shop in Saint John

In October, I: Continued exploring New Brunswick, Canada with Mike. Saw the strange phenomenon of the Reversing Falls at Saint John, where the strong Fundy tides rise higher than the water level of the Saint John River twice each day and appear to reverse the rapids. Walked around the unimpressive Container Village at the Saint John waterfront. Drove across a sand bar to Ministers Island and had to get off the island by 2:00 to avoid being stuck there by the tides. Wandered around the adorable St. Andrews by-the-Sea where I bought a fisherman’s hat and earned the nickname of “Roscoe” from Mike. Explored the sea bottom at low tide at Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park, and admired the “Flowerpot Rocks” there; they would be partially underwater at high tide. Enjoyed lobster rolls and a lazy lobster dinner at Alma Lobster Shop. Returned to Hopewell Rocks the next day, too late to see the rocks at high tide. Drove the 8-mile long Confederation Bridge over the Northumberland Strait. Met my old friend Lisa, who I studied Arabic with in Egypt in 2007, in Sea View, Prince Edward Island. Went on a ride in Lisa’s truck to meet her friends and then to see her favorite sights: Black Horse Corner, Park Corner Heritage Cemetery, the New London Lighthouse and the Cape Tryon Lighthouse, French River, and the red sand beaches. Enjoyed two fabulous breakfasts and dinners by Lisa, one of which included an early Canadian Thanksgiving dinner. Rode electric bikes around Charlottetown and for a bit along the Confederation Trail. Found much of Prince Edward Island National Park shut down because of trees felled by Hurricane Fiona. Visited Green Gables, the inspiration for L.M. Montgomery’s Anne of Green Gables, and was surprised to discover her love of fashion and her scrapbooking passion. Drove back across the Confederation Bridge and then the U.S. border to Brunswick, Maine. Had a horrible endless day driving home from Maine, encountering multiple traffic delays and detours due to heavy traffic on the Friday before the Columbus Day weekend. Continued physical therapy for the pain in my right hip. Found out my daughter was heartbroken over the death of her cat, Chicken Little, died. Ate sushi at Ariake and enjoyed an early 67th birthday celebration at Artie’s with Alex and Mike. Rode my bike for 11 miles on my Tuesday birthday. Met our friends Karen and Michael for dinner and drinks at Tiki Thai. Got my flu shot and second pneumonia vaccine. Voted early, blue all the way. Saw a student production of Head Over Heels at Center for the Arts at George Mason University. Drove to western Virginia to browse at the adorable Old Luckett’s Store (“Vintage Hip”) and enjoyed a giant chili dog and blackberry smash at Flying Ace Farm and Distillery. Was heartbroken to hear of the horrible crowd crush in Itaewon in Seoul, South Korea, where over 150 young people were killed while celebrating Halloween. Started watching the new season of White Lotus and got Apple TV+ so we could finally watch Ted Lasso. Watched Rear Window, Norwegian Wood, Notorious, Little White Lie, Ticket to Paradise, and That’s Amor. Finished 3 books out of my goal of 55 for the year (bringing my total to 47/55), my favorites being In the Field by Claire Tacon and Anne of Green Gables by L.M. Montgomery. Continued our perpetual mourning for the loss of 1,070,264 people in the U.S., and 6.59 million in the world, from two+ years of COVID.

October bullet journal

Mural in Saint John, New Brunswick

The Creamery at Covenhoven on Ministers Island

Ministers Island

Covenhoven on Ministers Island

Cedar Lane on Ministers Island

St. Andrews By-The-Sea

Greenock Church at St. Andrews By-The-Sea

Lepreau Falls

Hopewell Rocks

Mike at Hopewell Rocks

Hopewell Rocks

Hopewell Rocks, New Brunswick

Hopewell Rocks

Cape Enrage

covered bridge in Fundy National Park

Alma, New Brunswick

Mike in Alma

Alma, New Brunswick

Hopewell Rocks at higher tide

Confederation Bridge

Lisa, me and Mike at Black Horse Corner

Lisa and me at Park Corner Cemetery

French River, PEI

sunset on PEI

New London Lighthouse, PEI

French Village

another fishing village on PEI

Lisa & me at her Thanksgiving feast

me at Green Gables

Prince Edward Island National Park

North Rustico, PEI

our front porch at home

sushi at Ariake

Mike at Ariake

me with Alex at Artie’s on my birthday

Me with Mike

Tuna salad at Artie’s

blowing out my candle for my birthday

ghostly beings

Karen, Michael, Mike and me at Tiki Thai

a bikeride on my actual birthday

falls colors

Me with Mike at “Head Over Heels”

me at The Old Luckett’s Store

The Old Luckett’s Store

The Cottage

Flying Ace Farm and Distillery

Mike with a Cubano at Flying Ace Farm

Me with a chili dog & blackberry smash

a mural in Purcellville

Scores Killed in Seoul Crowd Crush

fall colors

In November, I: Continued physical therapy on my right upper hip; studied Spanish on Duolingo; planned and booked our upcoming trip to Nicaragua & Costa Rica. Enjoyed soup dumplings at Yu Noodles and injera with lentils and veggies at Enatye Ethiopian with Mike and Alex. Went to the Renwick Gallery for our 34^th (27^th) anniversary to see “This Present Moment: Crafting a Better World,” and enjoyed pulpo and the Latin American vibe at Del Sur Café. Visited my bedridden dad in Yorktown, and felt sad to see him wasting away despite continuing to eat. Had a 29^th birthday celebration with our son’s girlfriend, Jandira, who we finally met after 8 months. Had a lovely Thanksgiving with almost the whole family here: Sarah, Alex, Jandira and Mike’s sister Barbara – everyone except Adam, who is still in Nicaragua and who we’ll see in late December. Spent Thanksgiving Day, after eating a huge feast, playing Codenames and Monopoly Deal. Walked daily but missed out on yoga due to PT sessions. Read 4 books out of my goal of 55 for the year (bringing my total to 51/55), with my favorite being Bodies of Water by T. Greenwood. Started watching the second season of The White Lotus and the fifth season of The Crown. Mourned the loss of 1,079,197 people in the U.S., and 6.6 million in the world, from two years & eight months of COVID.

November bullet journal

a walk along Glade Drive

Kimchi House in Alexandria

Kimchi House

Bibimbap at Kimchi House

dinner at Sweet Ginger

Fading fall colors

me at the Renwick

the Renwick Gallery in D.C.

me at Del Sur Cafe in D.C.

Alex at Enatye Ethiopian

Ethiopian food at Enatye Ethiopian

Alex & Jandira

Jandira blows out her birthday candles

Thanksgiving table

Barbara and Jandira playing Codenames

Sarah and Mike at Codenames

walk around Lake Audubon on Thanksgiving Day

Alex, me and Sarah

Alex & Jandira

me with Mike

sunrise out our window

In December, I: Visited the Hirshhorn Museum & Sculpture Garden to see “One with Eternity: Yayoi Kasuma in the Hirshhorn Collection.” Discovered other interesting and disturbing works in our wanders through the museum, including one on Contemporary Photography in China, in which protest art attempts to reclaim what was lost in the Cultural Revolution and tries to reckon with the recent past. Ate dinner in Arlington at Buena Vida Gastrolounge. Wished our son in Nicaragua a happy 30th birthday on Pearl Harbor Day. Finished up physical therapy on my right hip. Had a nice long talk with my friend Jayne in California. Celebrated as Alex graduated from Northern Virginia Community College and got officially accepted into George Mason University to continue his Computer Science degree. Saw Empire of Light at Cinema Arts Theatre followed by a delectable Vietnamese dinner. Went with Alex and Mike to Washington National Cathedral to see the annual display of creches and to eat our traditional lunch at the Lebanese Taverna Market. Felt heartbroken that my father passed away on December 18 after a years-long decline from strokes and Alzheimer’s, and after having become totally bedridden for the last year. Had a Zoom call with my siblings to toast my dad since he specified that he didn’t want any kind of funeral, although we’ll have a celebration of life in January or February. Enjoyed a Christmas celebration with Alex and Jandira, Mike and Barbara topped off by a game of Ticket to Ride. Took an early morning flight to Managua, Nicaragua to visit our son, Adam. Climbed Cerro Apante in Matagalpa to see views of the city and the huge Virgin Mary statue. Visited the Selva Negra coffee farm and learned about revolutionary leader Carlos Fonseca. Tried Nicaraguan street foods with Adam’s guidance: buñelos, respado, atol, and unripe mangoes with salt, lime & chili. Climbed to the roof of the Catedral de León and walked through the decrepit Museo de Revolución. Sunned and body-surfed at Playa Las Penitas on the Pacific coast, and then visited León museums in the afternoon: the Museo Rubén Dario and the Centro De Arte Fundación Ortiz-Gurdian. Ate a delicious New Year’s Eve dinner at El Bodegón in León, although I didn’t stay up to see in the New Year. Read 7 books out of my goal of 55 for the year (bringing my total to 58/55), with my favorites being Make Your Home Among Strangers by Jennine Capo Crucet and The Year of Fog by Michelle Richmond. Finished the second season of White Lotus. Mourned the loss of 1,090,204 people in the U.S., and 6.678 million in the world, from two years & ten months of COVID.

December bullet journal

Yayoi Kasuma in the Hirshhorn Collection

John Akombrah at the Hirshhorn

Contemporary Photography in China at the Hirshhorn

Hirshhorn permanant collection

Food trucks and the U.S. Capitol

Mike at Buena Vida Gastrolounge

lingering leaves

East Wind Vietnamese

Mike at Lake Anne in Reston

Washington National Cathedral

Alex and me at Washington National Cathedral

Alex and Mike at Washington National Cathedral

Washington National Cathedral

creches at the Cathedral

Stained glass window at the Cathedral

view of Washington from the Cathedral

My mom and dad in China Lake, CA

My dad holding me

Steph and Seth, Trey, Dad, Alex, Joan and Kelsey

Dad and me

Me at Anita’s not very happy about losing our power for 26 hours

Alex & Jandira make a pot of chili on Christmas Eve

Jandira and Alex opening presents

Jandira and Alex

Mike and me

Barbara, Jandira, Alex, me and Mike

Flying out of Washington on Dec. 27

Flying into Miami on our way to Managua

Mike, Adam, Alex and me in Matagalpa

me at Rincón Azteca Mexican Food in Matagalpa

Alex and Adam hiking up Cerro Apante

view of Matagalpa from Cerro Apante

Mike & me on Cerro Apante

Adam & Alex atop Cerro Apante

youth hostel at Selva Negra near Matagalpa, Nicaragua

the family at Selva Negra

Mike and me in Morazan Park in Matagalpa

León Catedral

me atop León Catedral

León Catedral

Iglesia de la Recoleccción in León

Adam and Mike at Playa Las Penitas

Sign for Poneloya

me with Mike on the rooftop of the Museum of the Revolution in León

Nicaraguan painting in the Centro De Arte Fundación Ortiz-Gurdian

Mike, Alex and Adam at El Bodegón on New Year’s Eve

Here are some of my previous years’ recap posts. I now wish I had one for every year of my life, as they serve as great reminders of my adventures, joys, challenges, and tribulations in years past!

twenty twenty-one: from insurrection to omicron
twenty-twenty: the year of coronavirus
twenty-nineteen
twenty-eighteen
twenty-seventeen
twenty-sixteen
Sadly, I didn’t do one in 2015.
twenty-fourteen
twenty-thirteen
weekly photo challenge: my 2012 in pictures

Here’s wishing everyone a Happy New Year in 2023! 🙂

nova scotia’s minas basin & annapolis valley

wanderessence1025 December 14, 2022

Tuesday, September 27: We woke to a foggy and rainy Tuesday in Halifax, so we headed west to Wolfville, the Minas Basin and the Annapolis Valley. The Annapolis Valley is on the Bay of Fundy side of the narrow Nova Scotia peninsula. It’s notable for fertile farmlands, vineyards and orchards. The valley runs northeast, sheltered on both sides by the North and South Mountains.

We drove through Port Williams where we saw the tide was very low. Since everything about the Bay of Fundy is about the extreme tides, we stopped to take a picture at low tide. We vowed to stop on our way back to take another picture at high tide, which we did. Between the two pictures, taken at 10:00 a.m. and again at 2:00 p.m., the tide had risen dramatically. According to the Port Williams tide table, the difference between high and low tide is 27 feet.

Port Williams low tide 10:00 a.m.

Port Williams lies in Kings County, Nova Scotia between and to the north of the towns of Wolfville and Kentville. An agricultural community, its daily rhythms are determined by the Minas Basin tides. Its history is rich with the legacy of the Mi’kmaq, Acadians and Planters and it is defined by its dike lands.

Port Williams high tide 2:00 p.m.

The Minas Basin is an inlet of the Bay of Fundy known for its extremely high tides.

We went to Blomidon Provincial Park, which the waitress at the Old Triangle Irish Alehouse in Halifax had recommended to us. Rising dramatically from the shores of the Minas Basin, Blomidon is famous for its expansive views. Blomidon includes 180m (600ft) high cliffs, a variety of habitats, striking natural features, and abundant wildlife. Besides that, the world’s highest tides wash its shores. We had to consult with the tide charts to avoid getting stranded until high tide receded. We arrived as the tide started coming in, but we managed to walk on the mud flats in plenty of time to climb back up from the beach. Luckily a stream flowed down from one of the cliffs enabling us to rinse off our muddy shoes. The difference between high and low tides in the Minas Basin is 40 feet.

Blomidon Provincial Park

Mike at Blomidon Provincial Park

Blomidon Provincial Park

sand crab trails

Mike at Blomidon Provincial Park

Blomidon Provincial Park

rinsing our muddy shoes in the stream

Blomidon Provincial Park

We saw a cute pumpkin display on our way to Hall’s Harbour, one of the best natural harbors on the Upper Bay of Fundy.

Pumpkin display in the Annapolis Valley

Hall’s Harbour was named after Samuel Hall, who acted as a pilot and guide to a privateer band raiding Nova Scotia in 1779. The band consisted of 17 men aboard the Mary Jane, led by Captain Gour. A 40-man militia from Saint John, New Brunswick repelled this group.

It is said that Captain Hall’s treasure is buried somewhere in or about the banks of the upper creek area to the south. Hall’s Harbour is known for its hand lining for cod, pollock, haddock and halibut.

As for lobster, in the early days the average number of traps per fisherman ranged between 30-35 traps. These traps were all set and retrieved by hand. Nowadays, the average number is 250-300 traps.

Fishing was from small boats known as dories, usually painted dark yellow with green gunwales, often without sails or motors. There were also fishing schooners which frequented the harbor.

We ate chicken salad sandwiches we had packed at a picnic table on the dock and then browsed a couple of gift shops without buying anything.

Hall’s Harbour

We drove through the town of Kentville where Mike spotted a bike store, Valley Store & Cycle. Mike bought a biking shirt and I bought a buff and two pairs of wool hiking socks for the walk I hope to do next summer, the Via Francigena through Tuscany, Italy.

Kentville

We then drove to the fetching town of Wolfville, stopping to take our high tide pictures at Port Williams (see above).

Wolfville is a charming college town with ornate Victorian homes, a lively arts scene, and some fine restaurants. It was settled in the 1760s by New Englanders. The fields around the town support a thriving wine industry. This is partly due to a mild microclimate and partly due to an elaborate system of dikes built by the Acadians in the early 1700s to reclaim arable land from the unusually high tides. The dikes can still be viewed along many of the area’s back roads.

We had found a pub in every town, and Wolfville was no exception with its Paddy’s Brew Pub. We found the Just Us! Coffee House and the cool Acadia Theatre. A mural on a town wall says: “The tide flows seaward as the day expands.” ~ John Frederic Herbin, Herbin Jewelers (since 1885).

I perused a gift shop but when we went to leave it was pouring rain. Mike ran to the parking lot to retrieve the car so both of us didn’t get drenched. That Mike is a real gentleman! 🙂

Wolfville

We visited Domaine de Grand Pré, a restaurant and winery known for its award-winning vintages. I imbibed in a glass of white wine and Mike enjoyed a wine flight as we nibbled on cheese and crackers. I mentioned walking the Camino de Santiago and another woman working there ran over, “You went to Santiago, Chile?” Sadly, I explained that I’d never been to Chile but I walked the 790km Camino de Santiago in northern Spain. She had been to Chile and loved it, but she was also excited to learn about the Camino.

Domaine de Grand Pré

After the winery, we stopped at Hennigar’s Farm Market where we bought lunchmeats, cheese, jams and fruits. It was a cool place with many enticements.

Finally, we drove back to Halifax where we went to dinner downtown at McKelvie’s. I had the McKelvie’s Lobster Roll with seafood chowder. Mike enjoyed a crunchy haddock with creamy BBQ sauce and an “artisan salad.” I love how restaurateurs name something “artisan” to give it a classy edge.

McKelvie’s

Crunchy haddock with creamy BBQ sauce

McKelvie’s Lobster Roll with seafood chowder

After dinner we drove around a bit to see the damage from fallen trees and to determine how much progress work crews were making in cleaning up the area. Many neighborhoods especially near downtown Halifax were still a big mess.

downed trees in Halifax neighborhoods

We got cozy in our Airbnb and watched Virgin River and some episodes of Seinfeld, did our Duolingo and generally just enjoyed relaxing in our Airbnb.

latacunga, tigua & laguna quilotoa

wanderessence1025 November 9, 2022

Latacunga

Monday, August 8: We arrived in the evening at the adorable Hostal Huasicama with its colorful murals of an indigenous parade, the Mamá Negra Festival. Luckily, we seemed to be the only guests there, and we were able to switch our room for one with a hot tub. It was the El Capitán Room: El Capitán is said to be “Mama Negra’s lover and the only one who is allowed to dance with her; its origin is Spanish. He wears a military suit and he is accompanied by a group of people who are called Engastadores.” All the rooms are named after characters from the Mamá Negra Festival.

The town of Latacunga is dominated by Volcán Cotopaxi. It erupted violently in 1742 and again in 1768, destroying much of the city both times. The survivors were not deterred; they rebuilt only to suffer an immense eruption in 1877. The townspeople dusted themselves off, rebuilt again, and have been spared Cotopaxi’s wrath ever since.

To celebrate their good luck and revel in their rich indigenous and Catholic history, the townspeople threw a party, the Mamá Negra Festival (Black Mother). Usually the celebration is September 23-24 and again on the weekend closest to November 8. At the head is the Virgen de las Mercedes, Latacunga’s protectress from volcanic eruptions. A local man plays the part, dressing as a black woman.

Hostal Huasicama

Hostal Huasicama with mural of Mamá Negra Festival

Hostal Huasicama

our El Capitan room

El Capitán

Hostal Huasicama

We ate a light dinner in the room – leftovers of Mike’s non-grilled cheese sandwich and other snacks. Mike made drinks for us with Sprite and the whiskey he bought at a shop across the street. We soaked for a good while in the hot tub and enjoyed a relaxing evening after our long drive today.

Tuesday, August 9: After an excellent breakfast in the cozy fern-filled common room at Hostal Huasicama, we drove part of the Quilotoa Loop. Many people spend three days hiking this loop; we drove and that seemed to take forever. We took a comfortable paved but winding road through heavy fog around mountainous curves. Our GPS told us that we had a couple more hours to go after we had driven nearly an hour and we considered turning around in frustration.

Tigua

We finally came to a small cluster of art galleries along the road around milepost 50km. A young woman named Cuillar ran a cafe there, along with her art gallery. We enjoyed hot coffees in her cafe and asked how much further it was to Quilotoa; she said not far, maybe a half hour. Our GPS had misled us. We were glad we hadn’t given up and turned around.

One of the things I wanted to buy in Ecuador, besides Panama hats, were paintings by a community of painters in Tigua known for bright paintings of Andean life. We found the Tigua paintings in Cuillar’s art gallery, along with paintings by her father, who has shown them in galleries in Chicago. We took a photo of Martha (the grandmother), Cuillar (the mother) and Vanessa (the granddaughter). I bought two of the small Tigua paintings, one depicting Quilotoa and one Volcán Cotopaxi. They’re painted on sheep hides.

Martha, Vanessa & Cuillar

Tigua

Tigua painting of Laguna Quilotoa

Tigua painting of Cotopaxi

We found a mural painted in the Tigua style in the town Zumbahua on the way to Quilotoa. We were running out of cash and needed to find an ATM, so in Zumbahua, we asked a group of indigenous people who were clustered around what looked like a bank. We were using our pequito español and no one could understand what we were saying. We used hand gestures to mime getting cash out of an ATM. The women started snickering and they were all laughing heartily as we walked away, our tails between our legs; we were chuckling ourselves after another episode of failing miserably to make ourselves understood. Luckily we found a bank on the edge of town.

Zumbahua

Tigua style mural in Zumbahua

Just after Zumbahua, we found a tourist attraction at the Toachi River Gorge (Cañon del Toachi). We did a quick stroll around and Mike posed on a seat set within a heart overlooking the gorge. We also pushed the swing over the gorge, but neither of us had the nerve to actually sit in the swing.

the drive to Quilotoa

Mike at the Toachi River Gorge (Cañon del Toachi)

Toachi River Gorge (Cañon del Toachi)

Laguna Quilotoa

We arrived at the famous volcanic crater-lake of Laguna Quilotoa about 14km north of Zumbahua. The winds were fierce and cold, but that didn’t stop us from tackling the walk down into the crater 280m to the mirror-green lake. According to guide books, the hike down takes a half hour and the hike back up twice that. We were told you could take a donkey back up for $10, which, once we started the steep and slippery downhill slog, we determined we would absolutely do.

Bienvenidos a Quilotoa

Quilotoa

Laguna Quilotoa

I’m extremely cautious on downhill hikes, especially if the surface is slippery gravel atop a hard rock surface, which this was. It was incredibly steep. Even using hiking poles I was very slow and I kept losing my footing. It took us a full hour to get to the bottom. Mike insists that I’m a terrible descender as I tend to lean back instead of forward, not trusting gravity to take me downhill safely.

At the bottom, it seemed donkeys and horses were in short supply and the daunting prospect of climbing back up that slippery slope, especially at the altitude of 12,800 feet, had me in tears. Mike tried to console me and insist we’d find a ride back up, but I had my doubts. It was touch and go as I contemplated a two-hour hike back up.

Finally, at long last, we found a donkey and a horse to take us back up. The donkey took a lot of stubborn rest breaks and the boy was panting away during the donkey’s stops. Though I felt horrible putting the donkey and the boy handler through all of that, I also felt relieved that I didn’t have to make that challenging climb.

Laguna Quilotoa

me with a llama

Mike with his llama friend

the slippery path down Quilotoa

Laguna Quilotoa

taking the donkey up

Laguna Quilotoa

There is also a rim hike around the crater that is estimated to take 4-5 hours. We talked to a young Dutch couple who said they had hiked that trail “in the typical Dutch style – fast!” They said it was a scary narrow path often bordering steep precipices. They wished they had slowed down and enjoyed it more.

We left the cold winds of Quilotoa behind and started our drive back after I bought a huge wool poncho in a sprawling gift shop. I thought I might wear it at Cotopaxi where it is notoriously cold.

All along the highway, spaced at what seemed equal distances, were solitary dogs, either lying on the side or even in the middle of the road. We figured they had staked out their territory and were waiting or hoping for food. We jokingly called it “Señor Perro Highway.”

Señor Perro Highway

leaving Quilotoa

On our drive back from Quilotoa, the sun peeked out and washed the landscape in golden light. We stopped again at the little art gallery/café near Tigua for another cappucino and enjoyed views of the heights. We met Cuillar’s father who was manning the shop but we didn’t buy any of his paintings.

As we continued on another hour, we were able to catch views of the mighty Volcán Cotopaxi.

view of Volcán Cotopaxi

Return to Latacunga

We had another relaxing hot tub soak back in our room then we walked down several sets of steep steps to Terraza Resto Bar. Mike got a fancy rainbow colored shot, Barbados Sunrise (Ron blanco, curazao azul, granaidna, zumode naranja). I enjoyed a delicious meal of Tacos de Pollo (tortilla de maiz, rellena de pollo, fréjol, nachos, pico de gallo, guacamole). Mike enjoyed a Hamburguesa: a Lo Mero Mero (carne, jalapeños, guacamole, nachos, queso cheddar y queso fundido) and French fries.

Terraza Resto Bar

Barbados Sunrise

Tacos de Pollo

Hamburguesa: A Lo Mero Mero

It was a lovely end to a fun but challenging day. Even though the descent down into the crater was super stressful, I was glad we did it instead of simply driving all that way and looking at it from the mirador (overlook). We had a true experience instead of simply checking off √ the want-to-see list. 🙂

Here’s a little video of our time in Latacunga & Quilotoa.

Steps 13,935; Miles: 5.82.

riobamba to volcán chimborazo

wanderessence1025 November 3, 2022

Ingapirca to Riobamba

Saturday, August 6: We spent four hours cruising north at nosebleed heights around curvy mountain bends on the PanAmerican Highway, from Ingapirca to Riobamba. The patchwork farmland and homesteads dotting the majestic Andes were serene yet dramatic.

Driving along the PanAmerican Highway to Riobamba

We got our first glimpse of Volcán Chimborazo as we approached Riobamba.

first glimpses of Chimborazo

Riobamba

We checked into Casa 1881, where we met the friendly Santiago. He gave us the lay of the land on a photocopied map of the town, marking sites to see in purple Xs and circles, and we went out promptly to explore.

Casa 1881

Santiago at Casa 1881

We stopped at an encebollados stand, where we ate the famous soup of fish, potatoes, and corn while chatting in our pequito Spanish with the vendor, her daughter and her granddaughter.

encebollados stand

encebollados

the vendor and her granddaughter at the encebollados stand

The city has a strong indigenous presence displayed in the Saturday market, which we perused. The layout and architecture reflect the colonizing influences of the Spanish. Overall, though, the town had a derelict feel to it that was disappointing after having spent six days in lovely Cuenca.

In the afternoon, we happened upon a city parade with costumed dancers stepping to Latin beats from different areas within the province of Chimborazo. We asked some fellow spectators what it was all about and they said it was a kind of city celebration. Santiago later rolled his eyes and said these celebrations happen all the time. Even as a local, he didn’t know what this one was for.

See the video at the end of this post for live scenes of the city celebration.

Riobamba

Parque and Collegio Maldonada

Riobamba

Much of the city seemed rather ramshackle. It was my least favorite of the trip so far, especially as the reason we came, for the bikeride down Chimborazo, didn’t seem like it was going to happen. Our guide Eddie, of Spirit Mountain Biking, sadly got COVID. At that point, he was still trying to find an alternate guide and we’d told him if he felt okay, we’d go with him and all wear masks.

We were able to spy the white-topped Chimborazo from the streets of the town.

view of Chimborazo from Riobamba streets

We had dinner at a Spanish tapas place called Amona. I enjoyed Gambas al Ajillo (Shrimp Scampi) and Mike had Tablita de Picados (Jamon serrano, chorizo, queso tilsi, aceitunas, y pan). The proprietor in the cozy little restaurant locked the front door after every patron entered. Desperate children pressed their faces to the glass front door and made feeding motions, hands to mouths. On the way home in the dark, beside the deserted train station, a young man approached and started tailing us, but we turned abruptly and crossed the street. We looked back and saw him putting on a mask. It was disturbing and I felt uneasy in that part of town after dark.

Gambas al Ajillo at Amona

Tablita de Picados at Amona

Steps: 11,659; miles 4.93.

Riobamba to Baños

Sunday, August 7: Santiago prepared us a fabulous breakfast at Casa 1881: waffles, scrambled eggs, fruit galore, coffee. Afterwards, we drove a long mountainous road to Baños. Originally our plan was to bikeride down Chimborazo on the Sunday after we arrived in Riobamba (equal to today), but once we cancelled in June because of the protests, we lost our spot with Spirit Biking. We scheduled with Eddie for Monday (tomorrow), but he tested positive for COVID and hadn’t yet been able to find another guide. Thus we had two days in Riobamba with all our plans awry.

Our plan was to bicycle down through tunnels and past waterfalls in Baños. Lonely Planet Ecuador describes Baños as a “mixed bag.” There are steep gorges, waterfalls, dense forests. The town itself has “drab architecture, and an overcrowded backpacker-ghetto feel.”

There were many activities one could do in Baños, according to the guidebook. “Puenting” (crudely translated as “bridging”) is swinging from a rope tethered to two bridges. That was most definitely not appealing. There are thermal baths and massages to be had and all kinds of sports such as mountain biking, hiking, rafting, ziplining and partying. The ziplining places didn’t look appealing due to the ramshackle nature of not only the operations but also the surroundings. We were supposed to do the most popular mountain biking ride, “Rutas de Cascadas” to Rioverde. It is described as a “dramatic descent past a series of waterfalls on the road to Puyo, a jungle town 61km to the east.”

When we arrived in the town, we weren’t at all impressed. We just weren’t feeling the biking here. We drove down the “ruta” through five or six long dripping rudimentary tunnels and we barely saw any waterfalls. We felt relieved once we decided not to bother renting bikes.

Sometimes travel days are simply disappointing and there is nothing to do but take them in stride. Though the drive to Baños was a stunning one, everything about the area and the town itself seemed shabby and derelict. Though I do my best to find the positive in every place, I didn’t see anything enticing in this town.

The strange thing was that numerous people had asked us if we were going to Baños. “It will be so crowded on Sunday!” and “It’s a great place for ziplining!” and “You’ll love Baños, it’s beautiful!” I didn’t understand the enthusiasm.

The only saving grace was the roadside El Rancho Restaurant, where we enjoyed some coffee, fruit juice and tortillas de maíz.

El Rancho Restaurant

A little hut next to El Rancho Restaurant

Back to Riobamba

When we finally got back to Riobamba around 3:00, the town was dead because it was a Sunday. We sought out an ice cream spot Santiago recommended, Helados de Paila, and then wandered aimlessly taking pictures of each other wearing our Panama hats. Mike posed in front of a cool mural where a woman had her breast exposed and a cup of milk (breast milk?) that a hummingbird was drinking from. I posed in front of a mural with a rearing horse and the town of Riobamba with Chimborazo in the background.

Mike at Helados de Paila

Whiling the day away

Riobamba

Mike and the milk mural

Me with Riobamba & Chimborazo

Riobamba

We stopped at Parque la Libertad, built in 1920. It commemorated the 100th anniversary of the city’s independence.

The main church is La Catedral, on Plaza Mayor, built after the earthquake in 1797. The earthquake obliterated the city, which was later rebuilt about 14km from its original location. Parts of the modern cathedral are built using stones from the former city that was destroyed in that earthquake. The exterior mixed indigenous symbols with traditional Catholic elements in an effort to sway the indigenous population toward Catholicism. Inside the church was very modern and preparations for a concert were underway.

La Catedral

We found ourselves at one point under a street with umbrellas hanging overhead and a little pool of water in half a tomato (or apple?). Wandering further, we found a sushi restaurant across from Amona, the tapas place where we ate last night. We got sushi to go and ate it at the dining room table in Casa 1881. Santiago was surprised, “Is that sushi? Where did you get that? I didn’t know we had a sushi place here.” I started to think we had experienced more of the city than he had!

umbrellas in Riobamba

sushi in Riobamba

We cuddled up under blankets for an early night, not knowing until Eddie texted us late that night that we wouldn’t have to get up at the crack of dawn for our bikeride down Chimborazo. He was feeling too sick and couldn’t find an alternate guide. We were both disappointed and relieved. We were told the weather was often frigid and rainy atop the volcano, so we had been nervous about that. In addition, I had trouble breathing at the higher altitudes, and Chimborazo was the highest in Ecuador. Instead, we would drive to the volcano on our way to Latacunga on Monday.

Steps: 8,640; Miles 3.66.

Riobamba to Volcán Chimborazo

Monday, August 8: We left Riobamba at around 9:15 after meeting Eddie from Spirit Mountain Biking. He came by to meet us since he felt bad he’d had to cancel our ride due to COVID. We all stood outside and talked with our masks on and he brought us a Spirit Mountain Biking buff.

We drove to Volcán Chimborazo and were bowled over all the way. The day was sunny and blue, relatively warm and breezy. We stopped numerous times to take pictures of the volcano from every angle.

Volcán Chimborazo

The indigenous people in the area call Volcán Chimborazo “Taita” (Father). It is 6,310m (20,702 feet) tall and is Ecuador’s tallest mountain, a strapping giant topped by a massive glacier. Not only is the extinct Volcán Chimborazo the highest mountain in Ecuador, but its peak, due to the earth’s equatorial bulge, is also the furthest terrestrial point from the center of the earth, according to Lonely Planet Ecuador.

Volcán Chimborazo

The volcano sits near a smaller volcano, Volcán Cariuairazo (5020m), within the Reserva de Producción Faunistica Chimborazo. It is called a ‘fauna-production reserve’ because it is home to hundreds of vicuña, a wild relative of the llama. Once hunted to extinction, they were imported from Chile and Bolivia in the 1950s.

We caught the elegant silhouettes of the vicuña as they grazed in the foreground of the great volcano.

vicuña at Volcán Chimborazo

We were mesmerized watching what seemed like a living breathing being. The clouds were like a thick fleece blanket caressing the peak in a sensual way. It was captivating to watch, this symbiotic relationship between cloud and mountain. We stopped several times, in awe of it all. (You can see the living and breathing volcano in the video at the end of this post).

Volcán Chimborazo

Though we were supposed to bike down the volcano, we wondered if we were better served by driving after all. We were able to stop many times to take pictures, which we may not have been able to do on a bike. It was disappointing to miss the adventure, but it was amazing to see the volcano by car as well.

Entering the park

Visitor Center

We drove up to the access point for the Refugio Hermanos Carrel at 4,800 meters. Mike walked up a bit to the cemetery with gravestones marking people in recent years who have died trying to climb Chimborazo. Many monuments were scattered about in that barren landscape. One climber who died was Santiago Fabian Naveda Gonzalez: B. 6/25/1983 D. 12/22/2021.

Refugio Hermanos Carrel

one of many markers of climbers who were killed

Refugio Hermanos Carrel

We continued around the western side of Chimborazo on our way to Latacunga. This side is called the arenal (arena means ‘sand’) and it is very arid.

parting view of Chimborazo

the arenal

the north side of the volcano

Volcán Chimborazo to Latacunga

Before driving through Ambato, we stopped at a restaurant to grab some lunch. We were hungry because it was almost 2:00. I tried to ask the waitress about the menu in Spanish and she started laughing so hard she scampered away and sent her mother over to take our order. Apparently our Spanish speaking made us a laughingstock! I ordered a shrimp dish (shrimp in a garlic sauce served in a lettuce bowl) with rice and a tomato/red onion garnish. The mother misunderstood our order and brought two of the same dish, one for me and one for Mike, even though Mike had ordered a cheese “sandwich” only to find what he imagined would be grilled cheese was just a slice of cheese stuck inside a bun. We took away Mike’s cheese bun but were stuffed from eating the two large shrimp meals.

local restaurant

our shrimp meal x2

We had a long drive then on a confusing and convoluted route right through the center of Ambato. It took us forever to get out of that maze of heavily trafficked roads. When we finally arrived on the north side of that chaotic city, the drive became calmer again. We made it to Latacunga and settled into our cute hotel, Hostal Huasicama.

Steps: 4,912; Miles 2.07.

Here is a video showing the street celebration in Riobamba and some live views of Chimborazo.

The next day we planned to drive to Quilatoa.

ingapirca: ecuador’s major incan site

wanderessence1025 October 26, 2022

Friday, August 5: We left Cuenca this morning thinking we were on the PanAmerican Highway. Ha! It was slow going until Mike looked to the east and said, “What is that highway over there?” It was the actual PanAmerican Highway and we made our way there pronto. Sadly the highway didn’t last long and we soon found ourselves on a two-lane curvy mountain road. We followed a sign to Ingapirca on another mountain road which ended abruptly in a landslide. We had to backtrack and find another route. It took us a good deal of time to get to Ingapirca.

We arrived and checked in at Posada Ingapirca, lugging our suitcases to a building quite far from the main building. We had the suite with a sitting area, a fireplace and two queen beds. The staff told us there was no water because they’d had a large party of 40 the night before. Our room was rather chilly but a space heater, heavy blankets, and later a fire lit by the staff kept us tolerably warm in the room.

Posada Ingapirca is a 200-year-old hacienda built with some stones taken from the Ingapirca ruins. The posada was charming, but we didn’t linger and walked directly downhill to Ingapirca.

Posada Ingapirca

Leaving Posada Ingapirca for the archeological site

Ingapirca roughly translates to “Inca Wall.” Ecuador’s major Incan archeological site, it is beautifully situated in the windswept hills of the Southern Sierra region of Ecuador.

The area had long been settled by the Cañari indigenous people. As the Incan Empire expanded into southern Ecuador, the Incan Túpac Yupanqui encountered the Cañari “Hatun Cañar” tribe. He was not successful in conquering them, so he used political strategies such as marrying the Cañari princess and improving the Cañari city of Guapondelig, calling it Tumebamba or Pumapungo (now Cuenca). The Inca and Cañari settled their differences and lived peaceably. The Inca renamed the city which they used as a military stronghold as “Ingapirca” and kept most of their distinctive customs separate from the Cañaris. Although the Inca were more numerous, they didn’t demand that the Cañari give up their autonomy.

Sadly, the Spanish absconded with most of the stone at the site to build nearby cities.

Our guide at the archeological complex was Inez. She was bilingual but most of the crowd was Spanish, so our tiny English-speaking group got shortened explanations.

Ingapirca was built in the late 15th century not long before the Spanish conquest. It was likely a ceremonial center, as it is built on top of a much older complex of buildings originally constructed by the local Cañari tribe. The walls are of smooth stones assembled without mortar. The walls surround the central building, the massive and elliptically-shaped Temple of the Sun, the only one of its kind in the Incan Empire, built on top of an ancient Cañari ceremonial rock. As well as a site for rituals, the site was likely used for solar observation and to determine agricultural and religious calendars. Scientists have noted that altars inside the Temple of the Sun are directly illuminated only at certain times of the year, specifically the time of the New Year, or Inti Raymi; this is also known as the important Festival of the Sun and is still celebrated today.

The Sun Temple was used by the Incas, who worshiped the sun. Smaller ruins on the site belonged to the Cañaris, who worshiped the moon.

Next to the temple is the House of the Chosen, where the most beautiful girls from local villages lived as Virgins of the Sun. Matrons called Mama Cunas taught the girls to dance, embroider, weave and cook. The girls entertained Incan dignitaries, prepared ceremonial food, maintained a sacred fire and wove garments for rituals and for the emperor. They married high-ranking men such as Incas, soldiers and priests.

Trapezoidal niches seen in the stone work are identical to those found in other ruins such as Machu Picchu in Peru. Circular structures called Colleas were built to store tubers and Andean grains like corn, quinoa and amaranth. Qhapaq Nan is a segment of paved road, one of many the Incas built to connect religious and administrative centers.

a horse saddled up on the way to Ingapirca

Ingapirca

After our official tour, we walked 45 minutes around the Sendero del Intihuayco o Que’ebradea del Sol (Path of Intihuayco or Sun Valley). We strolled through a eucalyptus forest and past archeological features and grazing cows. On the path we encountered Ingachirigana (The Inca Game), two forms of stylized snakes carved intertwined with each other, which made this a ritual site. We found La Tortuga (The Turtle), an outcrop of carved sandstone which resembles a turtle’s shell at one end of its head. It belongs to pre-colonial times.

Path of Intihuayco or Sun Valley

The Inca Game

Path of Intihuayco or Sun Valley

Eucalyptus forest

La Tortuga

Path of Intihuayco or Sun Valley

Ingachungana Fragment

Intiñahui (Cara del Sol)

Path of Intihuayco or Sun Valley

We came to a small café of sorts where a woman was selling Chicha de Jora, a corn beer prepared by germinating maize, extracting the malt sugars, boiling the wort, and fermenting it in large earthenware jars for several days. It was nice to enjoy a seat and a drink before climbing the steep hill to see Intiñahui, the face of the sun. Also known as Cara del Inca, it is a cliff with a human face, most likely a natural phenomenon.

We chatted a bit with a German-Australian woman who was traveling the world alone, living in her van with her dog. She had encountered problems in Colombia getting her car through customs, so she didn’t start off on a good footing with Colombians. That was one brave soul.

me at the Chicha de Jora stand

me in the garden of the drink stand

Ingañahui – Cara del Inca

Looking back at the drink stand

The Temple of the Sun from the walk back

llama saddled up

Back at Posada Ingapirca, we wandered around the grounds, posing while wearing our Panama hats. We rested in our room, cuddling under heavy blankets. At dinner, the two guys running the posada scurried about and didn’t have time to tend to the sputtering fire in the dining room, so Mike took it upon himself to add wood and stoke the fire with the bellows. Everyone in the chilly dining room appreciated Mike’s fire-tending. I enjoyed trout in delicious sauce, accompanied by rice, salad, French fries and a glass of wine.

Posada Ingapirca

Mike at Posada Ingapirca

me at Posada Ingapirca

Posada Ingapirca

Mike and his fire

the dining room

Mike tries on a Cañari hat

Steps: 10,983. Miles: 4.65

Saturday, August 6: We woke to a freezing room, as the fire had gone out overnight and the space heater was too small to slice through the cold in our spacious room. In addition, there was no hot water in the shower, so we both took cold showers. At least the breakfast in the posada was good: fruits including watermelon, croissants, and scrambled eggs. We met and talked with some Germans and their Ecuadorian guide from Otavalo.

Before we left Ingapirca this morning I wanted to return to try to get some better pictures of the Sun Temple. We didn’t want to take the 45-minute tour again, so Inez, our guide from yesterday who happened to be there, allowed us to go into the complex through the exit gate. Mike got the best photos from outside the gate.

Temple of the Sun

Farewell to Ingapirca

We left Ingapirca and were on our way to Riobamba.

the colonial city of cuenca, ecuador

wanderessence1025 October 19, 2022

Saturday, July 30: We took an early morning flight from Quito to Cuenca on LATAM Airlines, arriving around 10:00. Unfortunately, we hadn’t planned very well, because we couldn’t check into our Airbnb apartment until noon, so we had to sit around waiting at Cuenca’s tiny airport until 11:30, at which time we took a taxi to the Airbnb. The occupants, a family from Washington state, were a bit late checking out so we were standing in the hallway when they finally came out at 12:30. The host had told us we could drop our bags in the apartment while the cleaning people did their thing, so we did that and headed out for a quick lunch at Chill & Grill Express before embarking on a walking tour of the city with Gustavo Jiménez Morales, a wonderful tour guide recommended by our Airbnb host.

Our apartment was modern and well-appointed. It was right across the Río Tomebamba from the Old Town.

Our beautiful Airbnb apartment in Cuenca

After lunch, Gustavo took us to his apartment, situated in a building next door to ours. We met his daughter Camilla and her boyfriend Martín. Camilla graduated recently with a degree in architecture. I loved the colorful and cool decor in Gustavo’s apartment. Gustavo was once a veterinarian specializing in large animals; he had become a tour guide because he loves helping and meeting people and introducing them to his beloved city.

Gustavo, Camilla and Martín

Gustavo’s bookshelf

Gustavo led us on a walking tour of Cuenca’s Old Town (Centro de Cuenca). We crossed the bridge over Río Tomebamba from our temporary home in the New Town and strolled along the river, gurgling peacefully through a shaded park. We climbed an endless number of steps to the historic town where we admired the classic balconied buildings lining the street.

Mural on Gustavo’s apartment building

Río Tomebamba

our path to the Old Town

We walked along a high street from which we could view the New Town of Cuenca below. Gustavo pointed out relief carvings through the town. The first was of a woman who lost her young son and calls for him at night because she hears him crying. The headless monk relief symbolized how the “man of God” frequented whorehouses with a hood over his head so no one would recognize him. We saw the Art Extremo Museum and Cafe, a grim reaper-themed gallery, bar and nightclub. A statue in a small square represented a greased pole that children climb to get trinkets during Corpus Christi. We dropped into the shop of a man who cleans and repairs people’s Panama hats. We strolled through a park with beautiful green and yellow palms. Cuenca is a town filled with artistic flourishes.

balconies with flourishes

view of Cuenca

walking the hilltop streets of Cuenca

a woman calling for her son

headless monk relief

Art Extremo Museum & Cafe

animals on the rooftop

beautiful tiled building

Trompe-l’œil

the greased pole for Corpus Christi

the Panama hat cleaner

mural in Cuenca

more balconies

Colonial-era buildings

more balconies

We wandered through the Hotel Alcazar with its gorgeous courtyard and gardens and then took a leisurely stroll through the flower market. Finally we reached the New Cathedral, which dominates Parque Calderón, the city’s largest plaza. Construction of the cathedral began in 1885. Its giant domes of sky-blue Czech tiles are visible from all over the town. The bell towers are a bit short because of a design error which made the intended height of the belfries impossible for the building to support.

gardens of Hotel Alcazar

the New Cathedral’s domes as seen from a nearby courtyard

more balconies

the flower market

another imposing building

We topped off our first half day in Cuenca by eating a light dinner at El Mercado. I enjoyed Langostinos Asados (grilled prawns). Mike had Berenjenas a la Mediterranea: roasted eggplants, baked tomato sauce, feta cheese, basil and sourdough bread. We shared the ubiquitous locro de papas (potato soup with cheese and avocado). And drinks of course.

me at El Mercado

Langostinos Asados

Mike at El Mercado

Berenjenas a la Mediterranea

Steps: 14,816; miles 6.24

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Sunday, July 31: We went on a tour of three market towns with Gustavo. I wrote about it here: market towns near cuenca: the panama hat trail & the “ruta de las guitarras”.

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Monday, August 1: Today was our first day in Cuenca on our own. Gustavo had gone to the beach with his family, so we wouldn’t see him again.

Cuenca’s historic center dates from the 16th century and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is famous for its skyline of massive rotundas and soaring steeples, cobblestone streets, and geranium-filled balconies as well as its barranco (cliff) along Calle Larga. Many craft traditions are centered here, especially ceramics, metalwork and the famous Panama Hat.

Three cultures have made a mark on the city. When the Spanish arrived in the 1540s, they encountered the ruins of a great but short-lived Incan city called Tomebamba (Valley of the Sun). The Spanish proceeded to tear it apart, using the Incan stones in their own structures. Before the Incas, the indigenous Cañari people had lived in the region for possibly 3,000 years.

We first came upon the Church of San Francisco which towers over Plaza de San Francisco; it features the “cuenca” sign in the midst of a rather shabby street market; it is bordered by old arcaded buildings with wooden balconies. We ventured into the Casa de la Mujer, which houses over 100 craft stalls selling handmade musical instruments, embroidered clothing, baskets, jewelry, ceramics, ironwork, wooden utensils, guinea pig roasters and gaudy religious paraphernalia.

Cuenca’s barranco

Church of San Francisco

“cuenca” sign in Plaza de San Francisco

relief mural in Casa de la Mujer

Inside Casa de la Mujer

Next to the flower market we’d seen Saturday, we found the stark white Church of El Carmen de la Asunción, founded in 1682. Inside its Santuario Mariano we found an over-the-top, rather showy interior. Gustavo had told us that Cuenca has 52 churches, one for every week of the year. The city is rich with colonial-era buildings.

Church of El Carmen de la Asunción

We stumbled into Dos Chorreras Chocolateria with a cool vintage red car inside stacked high with chocolates and a colorful disco ball hanging overhead. A long bark canoe was filled with burlap bags of chocolate beans. We enjoyed churros and chocolate there.

Centro de Cuenca

Dos Chorreras Chocolateria

Centro de Cuenca

We intended to climb the towers of the New Cathedral, but they were closed for lunch. Instead we went shopping nearby at Mercantile Tosi. For once Mike bought more than I did; he found four shirts.

By the time we finished, the towers were open, so we climbed over 150 steps to the terrace for views over Cuenca.

New Cathedral

domes on the New Cathedral

Parque Calderón

domes on the New Cathedral

view of Cuenca from the New Cathedral

domes on the New Cathedral

After walking all over, we relaxed back at the apartment in the afternoon, sitting in the hot tub and drinking Mike’s famous traveling concoction of whiskey and ginger ale.

In the evening, we went to the charming Consuelo; it is housed inside the stunning La Casa del Parque. The beautiful Renaissance-style building was conceived in 1880 for one of the richest and most influential women in Cuencan society at the end of the 19th century: Hortensia Mata. Her family’s wealth was acquired through various activities such as the export of quinine, cocoa husks, and toquilla straw hats.

A later owner of the house, Mrs. Gladys Eljuri, decided to add touristic value to the house by converting it to an upscale gourmet center. It boasts everything culinary from cheese shops to fancy restaurants to a Dunkin’ Donuts.

La Casa del Parque, the building housing the food court, including Consuelo

We enjoyed an unusual meal of Maduro Asado con Queso (lima beans with cheese), Caldo de pollo (chicken soup), and mote sucio (“dirty mote” – the “dirty” comes form pork crackling and mote is a hominy-like grain). We couldn’t translate the menu, even using Google, and couldn’t communicate with the waiter about food items. We figured we’d just go with whatever we got.

We sat on a velvet couch with bunches of roses overhead, Spanish music playing and a painting of a woman nursing her baby with milk dribbling down her dress. It was such a cool atmospheric place and the food was offbeat but delicious.

A couple sitting nearby said they’d just opened a fondue restaurant in Quito and were visiting Cuenca. All of us marveled over the strange concoction the waiter brought to top off our meal: Espumilla, a kind of Ecuadorian dessert of merengue and ice cream cones with various toppings such as flaked coconut, blackberry marmalade and “grajeas” (sprinkles?). We had seen this dessert offered by street vendors all over Cuenca.

Consuelo

Maduro Asado con Queso

Caldo de Pollo

Mote Sucio

Espumilla

Steps: 12,158; Miles 5.15

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Tuesday, August 2: We started our day by going to the Museo del Sombrero de Paja Toquilla. It is a small museum where you can see the various processes used in making the famous hats. We loved the outdoor terrace looking over the Tomebamba, the new town, and beyond to the Mirador del Turi.

Cuenca’s barranco

Museo del Sombrero de Paja Toquilla

me on the balcony of the Museo del Sombrero de Paja Toquilla

Mike on the balcony

view of Cuenca’s New Town from the balcony of the Museo del Sombrero de Paja Toquilla

View of Park Cajas from the balcony

Our next stop was Mercado 10 de Agosto, a colorful buzzing place with lots of activity. In abundance were colorful murals and every kind of fruit, vegetable and meat imaginable. We enjoyed wandering through and eating lunch in the upstairs food court.

Mercado 10 de Agosto

lunch at Mercado 10 de Agosto

Mercado 10 de Agosto

Later in the afternoon, we stopped by the market again to peek under the escalators at the Limpias, sturdy women who clean out bad energy from souls. These women speak mostly Quechua, the ancient language family of the Incan Empire.

We watched this healing ritual for a bit then we sat in plastic chairs to partake. The Limpias whipped our faces, arms, necks and bellies with bundles of herbal plants. The scent was calming but the vigorous whipping was invigorating. The limpias made shushing sounds to scare away the bad energy. The “diagnosis” of what is wrong with your soul comes in the form of an egg that is cracked open into a cup. After breaking the egg, she showed it to us, but I wasn’t sure what it signified or what to look for. They then rubbed an intact egg all around our arms and bellies.

Next came a cleansing with alcohol. They sprayed it all over our bodies and into our palms and instructed us to put our hands over our noses to inhale the strong odor. Then they rubbed charcoal or ash on our foreheads as some kind of blessing or to keep bad spirits away.

It was a wild experience, but I have no idea if it succeeded in driving bad energy away. You can see the Limpias in action in the video at the end of this post.

the Limpias in action at Mercado 10 de Agosto

We stopped at a cooperative where I looked at Ikat shawls and scarves, but I only bought a pair of earrings and a colorful little bowl.

Gustavo had recommended we go the Museo Municipal de Arte Moderno, housed in a former home for the insane. Sadly much of the building was undergoing renovation today; we wandered through the rooms that were open and admired the beautiful paintings by children from ages 8-12.

Inlaid sidewalk with the outline of the Museo Municipal de Arte Moderno

Museo Municipal de Arte Moderno

paintings by children ages 8-12

Museo Municipal de Arte Moderno

a house: pretty in pink

one of Cuenca’s many churches

After our wanderings, we went to the airport to pick up our rental car, which we would keep for the next 12 days, a white Toyota Yaris. We drove directly to the nearby Homero Ortega Hat Museum, recommended by Gustavo, to see the Panama hats being made. We had both read about the process in The Panama Hat Trail by Tom Miller so there were no surprises. The museum was nicer than the one we’d been to earlier and of course I had to buy a vintage style grayish-blue hat. Mike forbid me to buy any more since I don’t wear hats often, but I rarely listen to his admonitions.

Homero Ortega Hat Museum

After the hat museum, we drove to Mirador del Turi to see views of Cuenca. On the way, we almost got broadsided by a huge truck barreling into a traffic circle. It stopped inches away without a sound, no squealing tires or anything. It was surreal, as if time stopped. I almost felt like we were killed and then continued on after a momentary lapse into a parallel universe. It was incredibly bizarre.

We saw the stark white church of Turi but the viewpoint was messy because of construction.

Church of Turi

Mirador del Turi

We stayed in for dinner and cooked up some of the potatoes, tomatoes, eggs and spinach we’d picked up at the market.

Steps: 9,056; Miles 3.84.

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Wednesday, August 3: Today we drove to Park Nacional Cajas, where we hiked around Laguna Toreadora. I wrote about it here: a day trip to parque nacional cajas.

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Thursday, August 4: On our last day in Cuenca, we walked along the Río Tomebamba in sputtering rain, finding some cool murals depicting Panama hats. It was a long walk to Cuenca’s most important museum, the Pumapungo Museum.

Murals along the Río Tomebamba

Murals near the Pumapungo Museum

We walked outdoors through the archeological park, where we saw extensive ruins of buildings believed to be part of the old Incan city of Tomebamba. Spanish conquistadors absconded with much of the stone to build Cuenca, so there wasn’t much left. The Incan city was constructed at the end of the 15th century. The site represents the history of the Cañari or the Inca.

Pumapungo Museum

Mike at the Pumapungo Museum

Pumapungo Museum

Me at the Pumapungo Museum

harvest at the Pumapungo Museum

Pumapungo Museum

Inside the museum, we found colorfully animated dioramas displaying traditional costumes of Ecuador’s diverse indigenous cultures, including Afro-Ecuadorians and their reconstructed houses from Esmeraldas province, the cowboy-like montubios (coastal farmers) of the western lowlands, several rainforest groups and all major highland groups including Cañaris and Cholas. Sadly all the information inside the museum was in Spanish only.

Pumapungo Museum

At the end we encountered five eerie tzantzas (shrunken heads) from the Shuar culture of the southern Oriente. The tzantzas are severed and specially prepared human heads used for trophy, ritual, or trade purposes. The meaning of Shuar is “man” or “human being,” but they are often known as “Jibaro” (savage). The community rejects this term as pejorative. They live in the southern part of the Ecuadorian and the northern part of the Peruvian Amazon region at 2,000m above sea level. There, dense vegetation and numerous waterfalls slowed penetration by outsiders for a long time.

tzantza from the Shuar culture

Shuar culture

After leaving the museum, we stopped at Taita Café for an espresso and chocolate croissant.

We walked quite a long distance to see Church of San Blas on the east end of the historical center. It occupies what was once known as the “low neighborhood.” It is one of the city’s largest and the only one built in the form of a Latin Cross.

Church of San Blas

As a culinary finale, we headed to Guajibamba on Luís Cordero, known for its cuy (guinea pig). The courtyard restaurant with a relaxed atmosphere serves traditional Ecuadorian food, but our focus was the cuy, which Mike mostly ate. I ordered the Locro de Papas. The skin of the cuy was the best part, but overall it was much like eating quail or something like it, with little meat on the bones.

Guajibamba

courtyard at Guajibamba

The cuy meal

Mike eats cuy

We strolled back to Parque Calderón and took an elevator to the terrace of Negroni, where we enjoyed cappuccino, a chocolate mousse torte and wonderful views of the three blue domes of the New Cathedral. In order to use the bathroom, we had to step through a window.

rooftop veiw from Negroni

view of Parque Calderón from Negroni

Mike at Negroni

chocolate mousse torte at Negroni

view of the New Cathedral from Negroni

Finally, after a cloudy and rainy day, the sun came out and the weather was beautiful.

On the other side of Parque Calderón, we found the whitewashed ‘old cathedral,’ El Sagrario. Construction began in 1557, the year Cuenca was founded. In 1739 French explorer, geographer and mathematician Charles Marie de La Condamine’s expedition used its towers as a triangulation point to measure the shape of the earth. It is now deconsecrated and serves as a religious museum and a recital hall.

We wandered again through the flower market and to Calle Larga back to the Museo del Sombrero de Paja Toquilla where I bought a brown and tan striated hat, the third of my Panama hats. 🙂

flower market

my brown & tan hat from Museo del Sombrero de Paja Toquilla

Back at the Mercado 10 de Agosto, we bought more fruit from the same vendor from our first visit. We bought some bread from a bakery then walked back in the sunshine along the Río Tomebamba where we admired, for our last time, the barranco, where the city’s 18th- and 19th-century ‘hanging houses’ seem to float above the river.

view of the barranco along the Río Tomebamba

Back at the apartment, we did laundry, drank wine, fixed sandwiches and relaxed.

Miles: 16,946; Miles: 7.17.

Here is a video of our time in Cuenca.

We would leave Cuenca the next day for Ingapirca.

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Ministers Island

St. Andrews-by-the-Sea

Lepreau Falls

Saint John

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Sackville, New Brunswick

Saint John, New Brunswick

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Halifax

The Maritime Museum of the Atlantic

The Annapolis Valley

Halifax and surrounds

Crystal Crescent Beach Provincial Park

Art Gallery of Nova Scotia

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Latacunga

Tigua

Laguna Quilotoa

Return to Latacunga

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Ingapirca to Riobamba

Riobamba

Riobamba to Baños

Back to Riobamba

Riobamba to Volcán Chimborazo

Volcán Chimborazo to Latacunga

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