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    • on returning home
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  • Contact

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  • Home
  • about ~ wander.essence ~
    • ~ the places i’ve been ~
    • ~ places i’ve been in the u.s.a. ~
  • Travel Destinations
    • America
      • Boston
      • Delaware
      • District of Columbia
        • Washington
      • Georgia
        • Atlanta
      • Maryland
      • New Jersey
        • Cape May
      • New York
        • Adirondacks
        • Buffalo
        • Niagara Falls
      • Pennsylvania
        • Pittsburgh
      • South Carolina
      • Tennessee
        • Nashville
      • Virginia
    • American Road Trips
      • Canyon & Cactus Road Trip
      • Florida Road Trip
        • Everglades
        • Fort Lauderdale
        • Florida Keys
        • Miami
        • St. Augustine
      • Four Corners Road Trip
        • Arizona
          • Monument Valley
          • Petrified Forest National Park
          • Sunset Crater National Monument
          • Walnut Canyon National Monument
          • Winslow
          • Wupatki National Monument
        • Colorado
          • Colorado National Monument
          • Colorado Towns
          • Great Sand Dunes National Park
          • Grand Junction
        • New Mexico
        • Utah
          • Arches National Park
          • Canyonlands
          • Navajo National Monument
          • Dead Horse Point State Park
          • Hovenweep National Monument
          • Moab
          • Valley of the Gods
          • Natural Bridges National Monument
      • Great Lakes Road Trip
        • Michigan
        • Minnesota
        • Wisconsin
      • Midwestern Triangle
        • Illinois
          • Carbondale
          • Murphysboro
        • Kentucky
          • Covington
          • Lexington
          • Louisville
        • Ohio
          • Cincinnati
      • Road Trip to Nowhere
        • Nebraska
        • North Dakota
        • South Dakota
      • Tex-New Mex Road Trip
        • Texas & New Mexico Road Trip
        • New Mexico
        • Texas
    • International Travel
      • Africa
        • african meanderings {& musings}
        • Egypt
          • Cairo
        • Ethiopia
        • Morocco
      • Asia
        • Cambodia
        • China
          • China Diaries
          • Guangxi Province
        • India
          • Rishikesh
          • Varanasi
        • Japan
          • Kyoto
        • Myanmar
        • Oman
          • a nomad in the land of nizwa
          • Nizwa
        • Singapore
        • South Korea
          • catbird in korea
        • Thailand
        • Turkey
          • Cappadocia
        • Vietnam
      • Central America
        • Costa Rica
        • El Salvador
        • Nicaragua
        • Panama
          • Bocas del Toro
          • Panama City
      • Europe
        • In Search of a Thousand Cafés
        • Croatia
          • Dalmatia
            • Istria
            • Dubrovnik
            • Plitvice Lakes National Park
            • Split
            • Zadar
            • Zagreb
        • Czech Republic
          • Český Krumlov
        • England
        • France
        • Greece
        • Hungary
          • Budapest
          • Esztergom
        • Iceland
        • Italy
          • Bergamo
          • Cinque Terre
          • The Dolomites
          • Florence
          • Rome
          • Tuscany
          • Venice
          • Verona
          • Via Francigena
        • Portugal
        • Spain
          • Camino de Santiago
            • packing list for el camino de santiago 2018
      • North America
        • Canada
          • The Maritimes
            • New Brunswick
            • Nova Scotia
            • Prince Edward Island
          • Ontario
        • Mexico
          • Guanajuato
          • Mexico City
            • Teotihuacán
          • Querétaro
          • San Miguel de Allende
      • South America
        • Colombia
        • Ecuador
          • Cuenca
          • Quito
    • how to make the most of a staycation
      • Coronavirus Coping
  • Imaginings
    • imaginings: the call to place
  • Travel Preparation
    • journeys: anticipation & preparation
  • Travel Creativity
    • on keeping a travel journal
    • on creating art from travels
      • Art Journaling
    • photography inspiration
      • Photography
    • writing prompts: prose
      • Prose
        • Fiction
        • Travel Essay
        • Travelogue
    • writing prompts: poetry
      • Poetry
  • On Journey
    • on journey: taking ourselves from here to there
  • Books & Movies
    • books | international a-z |
    • books & novels | u.s.a. |
    • books | history, spirituality, personal growth & lifestyle |
    • movies | international a-z |
    • movies | u.s.a. |
  • On Returning Home
    • on returning home
  • Annual recap
    • twenty-fifteen
    • twenty-eighteen
    • twenty-nineteen
    • twenty-twenty
    • twenty-twenty-one
    • twenty twenty-two
    • twenty twenty-three
    • twenty twenty-four
    • twenty twenty-five
  • Contact

wander.essence

wander.essence

Home from Morocco & Italy

Home sweet home!May 10, 2019
I'm home from Morocco & Italy. :-)

Italy trip

Traveling to Italy from MoroccoApril 23, 2019
On my way to Italy!

Leaving for Morocco

Casablanca, here I come!April 4, 2019
I'm on my way to Casablanca. :-)

Home from our Midwestern Triangle Road Trip

Driving home from Lexington, KYMarch 6, 2019
Home sweet home from the Midwest. :-)

Leaving for my Midwestern Triangle Road Trip

Driving to IndianaFebruary 24, 2019
Driving to Indiana.

Returning home from Portugal

Home sweet home from Spain & Portugal!November 6, 2018
Home sweet home from Spain & Portugal!

Leaving Spain for Portugal

A rendezvous in BragaOctober 26, 2018
Rendezvous in Braga, Portgual after walking the Camino de Santiago. :-)

Leaving to walk the Camino de Santiago

Heading to Spain for the CaminoAugust 31, 2018
I'm on my way to walk 790 km across northern Spain on the Camino de Santiago.

Home from my Four Corners Road Trip

Home Sweet Home from the Four CornersMay 25, 2018
Home Sweet Home from the Four Corners. :-)

My Four Corners Road Trip!

Hitting the roadMay 1, 2018
I'm hitting the road today for my Four Corners Road Trip: CO, UT, AZ, & NM!

Recent Posts

  • bullet journals as a life repository: bits of mine from 2025 & 2026 January 4, 2026
  • twenty twenty-five: nicaragua {twice}, mexico & seven months in costa rica {with an excursion to panama} December 31, 2025
  • the december cocktail hour: mike’s surgery, a central highlands road trip & christmas in costa rica December 31, 2025
  • top ten books of 2025 December 28, 2025
  • the november cocktail hour: a trip to panama, a costa rican thanksgiving & a move to lake arenal condos December 1, 2025
  • panama: the caribbean archipelago of bocas del toro November 24, 2025
  • a trip to panama city: el cangrejo, casco viejo & the panama canal November 22, 2025
  • the october cocktail hour: a trip to virginia, a NO KINGS protest, two birthday celebrations, & a cattle auction October 31, 2025
  • the september cocktail hour: a nicoya peninsula getaway, a horseback ride to la piedra del indio waterfalls & a fall bingo card September 30, 2025
  • the august cocktail hour: local gatherings, la fortuna adventures, & a “desfile de caballistas”  September 1, 2025
  • the july cocktail hour: a trip to ometepe, nicaragua; a beach getaway to tamarindo; & homebody activities August 3, 2025
  • the june cocktail hour: our first month in costa rica June 30, 2025
  • a pura vida year in costa rica June 12, 2025

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welcoming allie home & discovering atlanta

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 February 28, 2024
Homecoming for Allie, The Atlanta History Center, Code Names & Pizza

Friday, October 6: Friday morning, Mike and I got up early and took a  3.4 mile walk around some Marietta neighborhoods. We enjoyed a breakfast of scrambled eggs, green onions, hominy and dill. I took a leisurely bath. Alex texted us to say he was working from home today and would bring Jandira and Allie home from the hospital.

morning walk in Marietta
morning walk in Marietta
morning walk in Marietta
morning walk in Marietta
morning walk in Marietta
morning walk in Marietta
morning walk in Marietta
morning walk in Marietta
morning walk in Marietta
morning walk in Marietta

In the afternoon, we visited the Atlanta History Center. We learned about carpetbaggers, the 1939 movie Gone With the Wind, a fiery plane crash that killed 114 Georgians in Paris, a washerwomen’s strike and the Great Atlanta Fire of 1917.

We read about child mill workers, desegregation, the local transportation system, and Atlanta music, dining and sports. Finally we learned a bit about the Coca-Cola Company, based in Atlanta.

We found exhibits about religious expressions in Atlanta, folk art, furniture-making, gumbo, basket-weaving, river baptisms, and Uncle Remus and Brer Rabbit.

Carpetbag in the Atlanta History Center
Carpetbag in the Atlanta History Center
theater marquee in Atlanta History Center
theater marquee in Atlanta History Center
Gone With the Wind at Atlanta History Center
Gone With the Wind at Atlanta History Center
Atlanta History Center
Atlanta History Center
Atlanta History Center
Atlanta History Center
Atlanta History Center
Atlanta History Center
Atlanta History Center
Atlanta History Center
Atlanta History Center
Atlanta History Center
Atlanta History Center
Atlanta History Center
Atlanta History Center
Atlanta History Center
Atlanta History Center
Atlanta History Center
Atlanta History Center
Atlanta History Center
Atlanta History Center
Atlanta History Center
Atlanta History Center
Atlanta History Center
Atlanta History Center
Atlanta History Center
Atlanta History Center
Atlanta History Center
Atlanta History Center
Atlanta History Center
Atlanta History Center
Atlanta History Center
Atlanta History Center
Atlanta History Center
Atlanta History Center
Atlanta History Center

We went on a self-guided tour of the Swan House, built in 1928. It represents the life of the elite class in Atlanta in the 1920s and 1930s. It was the home of Mr. and Mrs. Edward Inman, heirs to a post-civil war cotton brokerage fortune.

Swan House
Swan House
Swan House
Swan House
Swan House
Swan House
Swan House
Swan House
Swan House
Swan House
Swan House
Swan House
Swan House
Swan House
Swan House
Swan House
Swan House
Swan House
Swan House
Swan House
Swan House
Swan House

One of the most fascinating things at the Atlanta History Center was the “Cyclorama,” the huge, late-nineteenth-century painting depicting the Civil War battle fought July 22, 1864, east of Atlanta. Housed at the Atlanta History Center  and owned by the city, the Cyclorama is a national tourist attraction and cultural treasure. It is one of only two cycloramas in the United States, and at 42 feet tall and 358 feet in circumference, it is the largest painting in the country. The other remaining cyclorama is The Battle of Gettysburg, which can be viewed at Gettysburg National Battlefield Park.

These cycloramas used to be moved from place to place throughout the country, much like a traveling picture show or a traveling circus. At their peak, 40 cycloramas were on tour in the US. Because of the high cost to transport and set them up, they went bankrupt in the 1890s.

“Cyclorama”
“Cyclorama”
“Cyclorama"
“Cyclorama”
“Cyclorama"
“Cyclorama”
“Cyclorama"
“Cyclorama”
“Cyclorama"
“Cyclorama”
“Cyclorama"
“Cyclorama”
“Cyclorama"
“Cyclorama”
“Cyclorama"
“Cyclorama”
“Cyclorama"
“Cyclorama”
“Cyclorama"
“Cyclorama”
“Cyclorama"
“Cyclorama”
“Cyclorama"
“Cyclorama”
“Cyclorama"
“Cyclorama”
“Cyclorama"
“Cyclorama”
“Cyclorama"
“Cyclorama”
“Cyclorama"
“Cyclorama”
“Cyclorama"
“Cyclorama”
painting about “Cyclorama"
painting about “Cyclorama”
me at the “Cyclorama" exhibit
me at the “Cyclorama” exhibit

Last but not least, we walked through the Civil War exhibit which outlined the Confederate and Union plans for each year of the war and then showed what they actually achieved.

The “Myth of the Lost Cause” was explained very well, a MYTH that sadly still influences many people’s beliefs to this day.

Soon after the Civil War, White Southerners created the Lost Cause Myth to explain Confederate defeat. According to the myth, Southerners won a moral victory against the North’s overwhelming numbers and resources. The Lost Cause denied slavery as the primary cause of the Civil War.

Many Northerners rejected this view. They believed Union victory saved the United States and its Republican form of government. African Americans also rejected the Lost Cause. They understood the Civil War as a fight for freedom from enslavement.

By 1900, White Americans developed another set of beliefs. The idea of reconciliation celebrated the valor of white soldiers on both sides while defining the war as a tragic misunderstanding. Reconciliation denied slavery as the primary cause of the war and glossed over violent suppression of African Americans. Many Americans asked: Who really won the Civil War?

I know that during the 1960s and 1970s in Virginia public schools (Richmond, Virginia was the capital of the Confederacy), we were taught that slavery was NOT the cause of the Civil War. It was mostly about “economics,” or so we were taught. But of course, slavery had everything to do with the Southern economy.

train engine at Atlanta History Center
train engine at Atlanta History Center
Civil War exhibit at Atlanta History Center
Civil War exhibit at Atlanta History Center
Civil War exhibit at Atlanta History Center
Civil War exhibit at Atlanta History Center
Civil War exhibit at Atlanta History Center
Civil War exhibit at Atlanta History Center
Civil War exhibit at Atlanta History Center
Civil War exhibit at Atlanta History Center
Civil War exhibit at Atlanta History Center
Civil War exhibit at Atlanta History Center

We left the Atlanta History Center and returned to our Airbnb, where we waited for word that we could go visit the new family.

Finally, once Alex, Jandira and Allie settled into their cozy home, we brought over Domino’s pizza and Code Names and we took turns admiring Allie, holding her, playing the game and eating our pizza. A lovely night with our new granddaughter and the smitten new parents. 😍😍

Homecoming for Allie
Homecoming for Allie
Alex & Ticket to Ride
Alex & Ticket to Ride
Jandira & Ticket to Ride
Jandira & Ticket to Ride
Jandira and Allie
Jandira and Allie
Dido and Allie
Dido and Allie
little Allie
little Allie
the proud family
the proud family
cozy Allie
cozy Allie

Once back at our cozy Airbnb, we watched How I Met Your Mother and went to bed.

Steps: 12,339; Miles: 5.23. Drove 36.4 miles. Weather Hi 77°, Lo 54°.

Atlanta: World of Coca-Cola & Martin Luther King, Jr. National Historical Park and Birth Home

Saturday, October 7: This morning, we went first to downtown Atlanta to make sure we could get tickets for the tour of Martin Luther King, Jr.’s Birth Home. We put our names on the list for the 1:00 tour and then took off for The World of Coca-Cola.

We arrived too early for the opening time of the museum, so we took a stroll through the Centennial Olympic Park, a 22-acre green space that is Georgia’s legacy of the 1996 Summer Olympic Games. We saw the huge Georgia Aquarium, but we didn’t visit.

Centennial Olympic Park
Centennial Olympic Park
Centennial Olympic Park
Centennial Olympic Park
Centennial Olympic Park
Centennial Olympic Park
Centennial Olympic Park
Centennial Olympic Park
Centennial Olympic Park
Centennial Olympic Park
Georgia Aquarium
Georgia Aquarium

Returning to The World of Coca-Cola, we watched a 6-minute film that showed special moments in people’s lives where Coca-Cola was interwoven into celebratory events. It was surprisingly moving.

John S. Pemberton, an Atlanta pharmacist, tinkered for years to create a unique drink, and when he finally did in 1886, he created a whole new category of drink: cola. Coca-Cola quickly soared to success, but Pemberton sold the company in 1888 and died shortly thereafter. Pemberton’s recipe to this day remains one of the most closely guarded secrets in the world.

Pemberton’s bookkeeper, Frank Robinson, came up with the name after many attempts. He liked the repetitive “C” sounds. When figuring out how to depict the name, he decided to write it in script by his own hand. Today it is one of the most recognized logos in the world.

Asa Candler bought the company after sampling the drink and promptly launched one of the most successful marketing campaigns in the world. Besides convincing soda fountain operators to sell the drink, he started incorporating the Coca-Cola logo into everyday objects: sheet music, calendars, trays, and clocks – items that reminded people constantly of the product. He also distributed sampling coupons which people could use for a free drink. Affordable pricing was another cornerstone of Candler’s marketing philosophy: for its first five years, the drink sold for 5¢.

In 1899, two Chattanooga lawyers tried to convince the president of the company that the beverage should be bottled so that people could carry it anywhere. Not convinced, Candler sold them the bottling rights for $1. In 1915, the bottling company held a contest to find the most original bottle design to distinguish it from other soda bottles. The Root Glass Company of Terre Haute, Indiana came up with contour bottle design that has made Coca-Cola bottles iconic the world over. It is one of the few product packaging designs that enjoys patent protection.

Over the years Coca-Cola imagery has tried to capture the lifestyles of the day while reminding us that Coke is a natural companion to good times.

Finally, Coca-Cola’s marketing campaign expanded to making Coke available to everyone wherever they happened to be, including throughout the world. The company has paired with the Olympics and other sporting events, and it even shipped 5 billion bottles to troops during WWII to give them the familiar taste of home.

At the end of our visit, we watched an 8-minute 3-D movie then visited the Tasting Room, where we sampled many iterations of Coke products from all over the world.

The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
John S. Pemberton
John S. Pemberton
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
the 5 cent Coke
the 5 cent Coke
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The Vault (the secret recipe)
The Vault (the secret recipe)
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
The World of Coca-Cola
me waiting for the 3D movie
me waiting for the 3D movie
me at The World of Coca-Cola
me at The World of Coca-Cola
Mike at The World of Coca-Cola
Mike at The World of Coca-Cola

We grabbed a quick lunch at Mi Barrio. I got a ground beef taco and Mike had a huge bowl of Posole.

lunch at Mi Barrio
lunch at Mi Barrio
posole at Mi Barrio
posole at Mi Barrio
ground beef taco at Mi Barrio
ground beef taco at Mi Barrio
mural next to Mi Barrio
mural next to Mi Barrio

After lunch, we went to the Martin Luther King, Jr. National Historical Park and Birth Home. We had stopped earlier and arranged for a tour of his birth house at 1:00. The ranger told us tidbits about MLK Jr’s maternal grandparents, who owned the house, and the childhood shenanigans of Martin and his siblings. Sadly we weren’t allowed to take photos inside.

Martin Luther King Jr. was born in an upstairs bedroom on January 15, 1929. He lived in the house with his parents, maternal grandparents, sister, brother, uncle and great aunt for his first 12 years. The house is located in the Sweet Auburn community, still an active community.

Sweet Auburn community
Sweet Auburn community
Sweet Auburn community
Sweet Auburn community
Sweet Auburn community
Sweet Auburn community
Martin Luther King, Jr. birthplace
Martin Luther King, Jr. birthplace

We walked through Historic Fire Station No. 6, built in 1894 in Romanesque Revival style. In the 1960s, it became one of Atlanta’s first racially integrated firehouses. The interior includes a 1927 LaFrance fire engine. The exterior is restored to its appearance in the 1930s-1940s.

Historic Fire Station No. 6
Historic Fire Station No. 6
1927 LaFrance fire engine
1927 LaFrance fire engine

The Reflecting Pool at the King Center surrounds the tombs of Dr. and Mrs. Martin Luther King, Jr. The Eternal Flame serves as a reminder of the Kings’ undying commitment to their beloved community of prosperous working families.

Reflecting Pool at the King Center
Reflecting Pool at the King Center
Reflecting Pool at the King Center
Reflecting Pool at the King Center
tombs of Dr. and Mrs. Martin Luther King, Jr.
tombs of Dr. and Mrs. Martin Luther King, Jr.
tombs of Dr. and Mrs. Martin Luther King, Jr.
tombs of Dr. and Mrs. Martin Luther King, Jr.
The Eternal Flame
The Eternal Flame

In the 12 years that MLK Jr. led the American Civil Rights Movement, African Americans made more progress toward equality than in the previous three centuries. He credited his success to the courageous men, women, and children he led and to the philosophy of non-violence he learned from Jesus of Nazareth, Mahatma Gandhi, and others. He spent time in India studying Gandhi’s nonviolent teachings in 1959 and this philosophy provided the backbone of his belief system. He was very disappointed that soon after he gave his “I Have a Dream” speech at the March on Washington, his movement fractured into groups, many of whom believed progress could only be made through violent means.

In 1964, he became the youngest person at the time to receive the Nobel Peace Prize. On April 4, 1968, he was assassinated in Memphis the day after giving his famous speech “I’ve Been to the Mountaintop.”

An exhibit in the park museum compared President Jimmy Carter and Martin Luther King Jr, two men who dedicated their lives to the downtrodden and poor, and to creating a just world for all people.

Martin Luther King, Jr. National HIstorical Park
Martin Luther King, Jr. National HIstorical Park
Martin Luther King, Jr. National HIstorical Park
Martin Luther King, Jr. National HIstorical Park
Martin Luther King, Jr. National HIstorical Park
Martin Luther King, Jr. National HIstorical Park
Martin Luther King, Jr. National HIstorical Park
Martin Luther King, Jr. National HIstorical Park
Martin Luther King, Jr. National HIstorical Park
Martin Luther King, Jr. National HIstorical Park
Martin Luther King, Jr. National HIstorical Park
Martin Luther King, Jr. National HIstorical Park
Martin Luther King, Jr. National HIstorical Park
Martin Luther King, Jr. National HIstorical Park
Martin Luther King, Jr. National HIstorical Park
Martin Luther King, Jr. National HIstorical Park
Martin Luther King, Jr. National HIstorical Park
Martin Luther King, Jr. National HIstorical Park
Jimmy and Rosalynn Carter
Jimmy and Rosalynn Carter

We were tired out this evening, and so were the new parents, so we gave them their space to get settled in at home. We stayed in, ate leftover pizza from the night before, along with some of Mike’s leftover posole from lunch. We watched Lupin and How I Met Your Mother.

Steps: 8,317; Miles 3.53. Drove 44.5 miles. Weather Hi: 68°, Lo 45°.

A Kennesaw Mountain hike and dinner out at Marietta Square Market with the new family

Sunday, October 8: This morning was cool and nippy, a perfect day to climb a mountain. We hiked up to the top of Kennesaw Mountain at Kennesaw Mountain National Battlefield Park.

hike up Kennesaw Mountain
hike up Kennesaw Mountain
Mike at Kennesaw Mountain
Mike at Kennesaw Mountain
Kennesaw Mountain
Kennesaw Mountain
Kennesaw Mountain
Kennesaw Mountain
Kennesaw Mountain
Kennesaw Mountain
Atlanta Campaign
Atlanta Campaign
me on Kennesaw Mountain
me on Kennesaw Mountain
Mike on Kennesaw Mountain
Mike on Kennesaw Mountain
Kennesaw Mountain
Kennesaw Mountain
Kennesaw Mountain
Kennesaw Mountain
view of Atlanta from Kennesaw Mountain
view of Atlanta from Kennesaw Mountain
Kennesaw Mountain
Kennesaw Mountain
Kennesaw Mountain
Kennesaw Mountain

We stopped at a gaming store called Gigabyte after lunch to pick up a gift of Ticket to Ride for Jandira and Alex. We stopped by their house to take them the game, using it as an excuse to visit with Allie. She is a very sleepy little sweet pea.

another cool mural in Marietta
another cool mural in Marietta
at funny KFC sign
at funny KFC sign
sweet Allie
sweet Allie
sweet Allie
sweet Allie
being grandparents
being grandparents
the little munchkin
the little munchkin
me with Allie
me with Allie
Allie scrunches up her face
Allie scrunches up her face

Sunday night we walked with Allie in her stroller to Marietta Square Market where Alex, Jandira and Mike had dinner from D’Cubano and I had a Shrimp Po’ Boy and Mardi Gras beignets from Café Bourbon. This was Allie and her parents’ first night out to dinner!

Jandira, Alex and Allie
Jandira, Alex and Allie
Jandira, Alex and Allie
Jandira, Alex and Allie
Jandira and Alex
Jandira and Alex
Shrimp po boy
Shrimp po boy
Mardi Gras beignets from Café Bourbon
Mardi Gras beignets from Café Bourbon
Allie on her first outing
Allie on her first outing
at Marietta Square Market
at Marietta Square Market

Back in our apartment, we watched How I Met Your Mother.

Steps: 14,618; Miles 6.2. Drove 39.9 miles. Weather Hi 65°, Lo 42°.

Doctor visits and Tapas at Silla del Toro

Monday, October 9: Today I was lucky enough to accompany Jandira to Allie’s first pediatrician appointment. Allie  weighed in at 7 lb 6 oz, so she’d only lost a little weight. She got a clean bill of health, so we were all happy for that. 😍😍

We ran to grab a bite at Chick-fil-A. I hadn’t eaten there in years. We ran back to the house so Jandira could feed Allie (she was crying) and then I went with Jandira and Allie to a lactation consultation at Wellstar Cobb Hospital.

Jandira with Allie at her first doctor visit
Jandira with Allie at her first doctor visit
Jandira with Allie at her first doctor visit
Jandira with Allie at her first doctor visit
little Allie
little Allie

I was worn out from all the running around, so I told Mike I wanted a special dinner out (I didn’t want to cook in!). So, Monday evening, Mike and I walked to Marietta Square and had a lovely dinner at Silla del Toro Tapas & Drinks. Mike enjoyed a tequila flight and I had the best glass of Sauvignon Blanc I’ve had in ages, Luzón Colección, Jumilla. We shared delectable tapas: Spanish Style Mac + Cheese, Pinchos, Calamari and Albondigas.

me at Silla del Toro Tapas & Drinks
me at Silla del Toro Tapas & Drinks
Mike at Silla del Toro Tapas & Drinks
Mike at Silla del Toro Tapas & Drinks
Spanish Style Mac + Cheese
Spanish Style Mac + Cheese
Pinchos
Pinchos
Calamari
Calamari
Albondigas
Albondigas

The weather was perfect so we walked around Marietta Square yet another time. A perfectly pleasant evening.

a walk around Marietta Square
a walk around Marietta Square
a walk around Marietta Square
a walk around Marietta Square
a walk around Marietta Square
a walk around Marietta Square
coming home to our Airbnb
coming home to our Airbnb

Back at our home-away-from-home, we watched Virgin River and How I Met Your Mother.

Steps: 6,495; Miles: 2.75. Drove 37.8 miles. Weather Hi 74°, Lo 42°.

Another Marietta walk & sushi with the new family

Tuesday, October 10: Near the end of our visit, Mike found a local pool he could go to, so he went to swim there for the second time. I took my last morning walk around Marietta this morning, seeing a couple of new things including Kennesaw House and the Frequency Bridge. In antebellum days, Kennesaw House was a summer resort for planters attracted by the lively social activities of the town. Confederate wounded were fed and treated here after many battles and civilian refugees from overrun Tennessee and Kentucky stayed here, moving south as the Federals drew near. On July 3, 1864, Sherman had his headquarters in the hotel while directing pursuit of Confederates retiring into Atlanta. After the war, numerous northern visitors wintered in Marietta, many stopping at the Kennesaw House.

The bridge to the cemetery was another art installation titled “Frequency.”

Marietta Square
Marietta Square
Marietta Square
Marietta Square
Marietta Square
Marietta Square
Kennesaw House
Kennesaw House
"Frequency" Bridge
“Frequency” Bridge

I spent the afternoon shopping at an outdoor mall near our Airbnb. In the evening Mike and I got takeout sushi from Thaicoon & Sushi Bar and took it to Alex and Jandira’s house. We ate our sushi, oohed and ahhed over Allie, and then played a game of Ticket to Ride.

Allie
Allie
Allie and Dido
Allie and Dido
Alex, Jandira and Dido
Alex, Jandira and Dido
Jandira and me
Jandira and me
our last visit with Allie
our last visit with Allie
Where we went around Atlanta
Where we went around Atlanta

We’d be leaving Marietta early Wednesday morning and heading to Shreveport, Louisiana, where we’d stay one night and then head into Texas.

Steps: 11,418; Miles 4.84. Drove 26.6 miles. Weather Hi 79°, Lo 49°.

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  • America
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waiting for & welcoming allie: traveling to atlanta by way of greenville, s.c.

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 February 21, 2024
Virginia to Greenville, South Carolina

Sunday, October 1, 2023: We left home Sunday morning at around 8:30 a.m. for what was expected to be a 7 1/2 hour drive to Greenville, South Carolina. We were embarking on our “Tex-New Mex” Road Trip, but we planned to stay nine days in Atlanta, Georgia to meet our new granddaughter when, hopefully, she was born on or around her due date of October 1.

Our drive went smoothly. UNTIL. We came to a dead standstill on I-85 south north of Cowpens, just over the border into South Carolina. We sat at a standstill for 1 hour and 40 minutes without knowing how long we would be there or what was happening. We were barricaded on both sides of the two southbound lanes by Jersey walls. I hate feeling trapped and that’s just what we were. We kept looking for news updates on our phones and Mike tried to call every local police station, but as it was a Sunday, no one answered who could tell us what was happening. I kept thinking that if a bunch of people got together, we could knock down one of the Jersey walls and make our escape. Many people were climbing the walls, crossing another highway, and going in to ditches to use the bathroom, then returning to their cars, which hadn’t moved. Anyway, I guess they cleared away the accident, or whatever was blocking the road, and we finally started moving and made it to Greenville, South Carolina at 6:30.

We checked into our hotel, the Crowne Plaza Greenville, and went directly to Society Sandwich Bar, where I had a delicious Chile Lime Shrimp 🍤 Noodle Bowl and Mike had a Pezzo di Paradiso sandwich 🥪 (translates into “Whoomp There It Is” in English), with house-cut pepperoni, Genoa salami, crispy bacon, arugula, banana peppers, whipped ricotta, and shaved Parmesan served on grilled focaccia.  I enjoyed a glass of Sauvignon Blanc and Mike had a Yee-Haw Easy, a Pilsner from a local brewery.

Society Sandwich Bar
Society Sandwich Bar
Society Sandwich Bar
Society Sandwich Bar
Mike at Society Sandwich Bar
Mike at Society Sandwich Bar
me at Society Sandwich Bar
me at Society Sandwich Bar
Chile Lime Shrimp 🍤 Noodle Bowl
Chile Lime Shrimp 🍤 Noodle Bowl
Pezzo di Paradiso sandwich 🥪
Pezzo di Paradiso sandwich 🥪

After dinner, we strolled down Main Street under trees twinkling with lights to Falls Park on the Reedy. What a cute town Greenville is.

Greenville’s Falls Park on the Reedy has been named a “Top U.S. Park” by Trip Advisor for several years in a row, along with the likes of Central Park and Golden Gate Park. Greenville has also been lauded as one of the best cities in the U.S. In 2022, Condé Nast Traveler readers gave it a place of honor (6th place) in their Reader’s Choice Awards, particularly hailing its good eats.

Falls Park on the Reedy in Greenville, SC
Falls Park on the Reedy in Greenville, SC
Falls Park on the Reedy
Falls Park on the Reedy
me at Falls Park on the Reedy
me at Falls Park on the Reedy
Falls Park on the Reedy
Falls Park on the Reedy
Falls Park on the Reedy
Falls Park on the Reedy
Falls Park on the Reedy
Falls Park on the Reedy
Falls Park on the Reedy
Falls Park on the Reedy

Before going to sleep, I read The Removes, a novel about Libbie Custer, wife of George Armstrong Custer, and a woman who was kidnapped by a Native tribe.

Steps: 7,062; Miles: 2.99. Drove 506.1 miles. Weather Hi 83°, Lo 59°.

Greenville, South Carolina to Atlanta, Georgia

Monday, October 2: Before leaving Greenville this morning, we took a sunny stroll through Falls Park on the Reedy. We walked alongside sloping green hills and giant boulders, and on winding walkways with views of the Reedy River. In some old ruins near the river, we found a homeless person sound asleep in a bright red sleeping bag.

We walked across the 345-foot expanse of the Liberty Bridge, the pedestrian suspension bridge designed by Miguel Rosales of Boston. The bridge, which connects downtown to the west end, bounced under our feet. It was built to reveal the Falls and stand like a sculpture; the concrete-reinforced deck has a distinctive curve and is supported by a single suspension cable with supporting cables on the outside.

In 2002, citizens voted to remove a highway bridge across the Reedy River and create “Falls Park” as an urban oasis in the heart of the city. Falls Park was opened to the public in 2003 and the Falls, once again, resumed its place as the “Centerpiece of Greenville.”

crazy tree roots at Falls Park on the Reedy
crazy tree roots at Falls Park on the Reedy
Falls Park on the Reedy
Falls Park on the Reedy
Falls Park on the Reedy
Falls Park on the Reedy
Falls Park on the Reedy
Falls Park on the Reedy
Falls Park on the Reedy
Falls Park on the Reedy
Falls Park on the Reedy
Falls Park on the Reedy
Falls Park on the Reedy
Falls Park on the Reedy
Falls Park on the Reedy
Falls Park on the Reedy
Falls Park on the Reedy
Falls Park on the Reedy
Falls Park on the Reedy
Falls Park on the Reedy
Falls Park on the Reedy
Falls Park on the Reedy
Falls Park on the Reedy
Falls Park on the Reedy
Falls Park on the Reedy
Falls Park on the Reedy
Falls Park on the Reedy
Falls Park on the Reedy

After our walk, we drove without incident to Atlanta and were notified we could check in early to our Airbnb in Marietta. We arrived around 1:30 and moved in, since we’d be there for 9 nights.

Mike set up a workspace that wasn’t exactly comfortable, as he planned to work during the weekdays we were there. I read some of God Save Texas: A Journey into the Soul of the Lone Star State by Lawrence Wright, and promptly fell asleep under a cozy comforter.

our Airbnb near Marietta, GA
our Airbnb near Marietta, GA
living room of the Airbnb
living room of the Airbnb
bedroom of the Airbnb
bedroom of the Airbnb
bathroom
bathroom
kitchan
kitchan

Alex texted after he got off work to say we could come by anytime, so we went to their house which was so clean, neat, and organized, it was hard to believe he lived there. We checked out their setup for the baby. So adorable! Everything they had was so tiny.

We also got news today that Adam and his new wife Maria in Nicaragua were expecting a baby, probably in May or June of 2024 sometime. So much excitement for our family!

We all thought Allie’s due date was Oct. 1 and made our plans accordingly, but at their last doctor visit, my son and his wife were told the due date could be closer to Oct 10. We had to leave on the 11th, so we hoped it was sooner than that.

Allie's play space
Allie’s play space
clothes for Allie
clothes for Allie
Allie's diapers and stuff
Allie’s diapers and stuff
Allie's toys and changing table
Allie’s toys and changing table

We had dinner with the expectant parents at Taqueria Tsunami at Marietta Square. We sat outdoors at the sidewalk cafe on what was a very pleasant evening. Alex and Jandira are so ready to bring their little girl into this world. I enjoyed a Jalapeño Cilantro Margarita and a South of the Border Tsunami Bowl with shrimp. We offered toasts to the new baby’s safe arrival. Mike and Jandira had tacos and Alex a bowl with, you guessed it, steak!

Jandira & Alex at Taqueria Tsunami
Jandira & Alex at Taqueria Tsunami
South of the Border Tsunami Bowl with shrimp
South of the Border Tsunami Bowl with shrimp

After dinner, we strolled through the Square, all decked out with fall harvest and Halloween displays put up by different businesses. We admired the cool Strand Theatre (Earl and Rachel Smith Strand Theatre), which got started as a major motion picture house in 1935 but closed its doors as a movie house in 1976. By 2002, it had fallen into disrepair and reopened after a big renovation in January of 2009. It now features live theater, films, concerts, comedy, private events and more.

Halloween display in Marietta Square
Halloween display in Marietta Square
The Strand Theatre
The Strand Theatre

Steps: 7,707; Miles: 3.27. Drove 163.9 miles. Weather Hi 83°, Lo 59°.

A walk around Marietta Square, a doctor visit, and a hospital check-in

Tuesday, October 3: I started the morning by reading Fodor’s: The Carolinas & Georgia, making a list of all the places I could visit in Atlanta, and writing in my journal. All of that took a long time.

I finally got going on a 3-mile walk around and about the Marietta Square area at 10:30. The town was certainly celebrating the fall harvest and the Halloween season here. The marquee sign on The Strand Theatre advertised “Menopause: The Musical.” I walked by Three Roses Tavern, Mac’s Raw Bar & Market Gourmet Eatery, a MARIETTA rainbow mural, and a street mural showing the bottom half of a ballerina. One cool place called The Third Door had an Airstream, a mini camper van, and a craft cocktail bar. It was a live music venue in a restored 1920s filling station. A cool black & white mural of McPherson Tire Shop decorated one wall of the patio.

The sprawling First Baptist Church dominated Church Street. I walked across a colorful bridge on the trail that ran along the railroad tracks and I came across a house with a pirate ship in the front yard.

Walking back down the bike trail, I saw the Marietta Square Market, so I went inside to explore the nineteen eateries with various cuisines, such as Made from Scratch; Caribbean Fusion & Vegan Cuisine; Bullgogi; Momoito Ramen; Panko: fusion of Japanese & Western; Smokehouse Q; D’Cuban; and Tiki Trolley (wraps and açai bowls).

Halloween displays at Marietta Square
Halloween displays at Marietta Square
Fountain at Marietta Square
Fountain at Marietta Square
Halloween displays at Marietta Square
Halloween displays at Marietta Square
Halloween displays at Marietta Square
Halloween displays at Marietta Square
Halloween displays at Marietta Square
Halloween displays at Marietta Square
Fountain at Marietta Square
Fountain at Marietta Square
Halloween displays at Marietta Square
Halloween displays at Marietta Square
Halloween displays at Marietta Square
Halloween displays at Marietta Square
Halloween displays at Marietta Square
Halloween displays at Marietta Square
"Menopause: The Musical"
“Menopause: The Musical”
shops around Marietta Square
shops around Marietta Square
Three Roses Tavern
Three Roses Tavern
Around Marietta Square
Around Marietta Square
Raw Bar & Market
Raw Bar & Market
Mac's
Mac’s
"En Pointe" mural by Lindsey O'Shields
“En Pointe” mural by Lindsey O’Shields
Rubber Stamp Fantasy
Rubber Stamp Fantasy
"McPherson Tire Shop" mural at Third Door
“McPherson Tire Shop” mural at Third Door
Perception Bridge
Perception Bridge
house with pirate ship
house with pirate ship

At dinner on Monday night, I had volunteered to accompany Jandira to her doctor visit today, but she’d told me it wasn’t necessary. When I got home from my walk, she’d texted that I could come with her after all. I rushed to eat lunch, showered, then drove 20 minutes to meet her. All I did was sit in the waiting room. She said she had bad news and good news. They told her she wasn’t dilated at all but gave her the option to be induced at 8:00 pm that evening. They told her it could still take up to 48 hours even with inducement. She was weary of being pregnant and decided to go ahead and be induced that night.

I left and went to Kroger and bought groceries for our stay and brought them to the Airbnb to unload them.

Mike and I had wine on the front porch, then he made a dinner of Italian striped Farfalline with Chili Pesto Sauce, grape tomatoes, spinach and grated cheese. It was actually quite delicious, although I don’t get excited about cooking in when we’re on vacation.

We didn’t hear any word from the parents-to-be, but we knew they had checked in to the hospital. We relaxed and watched The Trial and How I Met Your Mother.

Steps: 9,288; Miles: 3.94. Drove 29.1 miles. Weather 82°, Lo 59°.

Waiting & Waiting … & Kennesaw Mountain National Battlefield Park

Wednesday, October 4: This morning Alex reported they’d stayed overnight at the hospital and Jandira was fast asleep. Alex slept on the couch under some hospital-provided sheets. He said the labor was proceeding slowly and they would probably have to stay overnight. The baby could come as late as Thursday morning.

Not one to sit around doing nothing while waiting for momentous happenings, I visited Kennesaw Mountain National Battlefield Park on Wednesday. After parking in the overflow parking and trekking to the Visitor Center, I only had time to visit the museum and see the film about the last big battle at Kennesaw Mountain before Sherman marched through Atlanta in 1864.

The film at the visitor center was quite moving. It focused on that battle in particular, during which the Union had twice as many casualties as the Confederates.

In the spring of 1864, Major General William T. Sherman led the Georgia offensive against General Joseph E. Johnston’s men, entrenched along Rocky Face Ridge at Dalton, Georgia. General Ulysses S. Grant, who had assumed command of all U.S. Army forces in March of 1864, ordered Sherman to “move against Johnston’s army, to break it up, and to get into the interior of the enemy’s country as far as you can, inflicting all the damage you can against their war resources.” Over the previous three years, the Confederacy had lost control of the Mississippi River, most of Tennessee, and much of Mississippi. A still-intact belt of manufacturing communities stretched from Augusta, Georgia to Selma, Alabama with the major city of Atlanta at its center.

Most importantly, Atlanta harbored a vital Confederate rail junction. Four railroads met there, linking the Southern Atlantic Seaboard states with the western Confederacy.

From May to September 1864, Federal and Confederate forces clashed across northern Georgia, from Dalton to Atlanta, in fierce battles and almost daily skirmishes and maneuvers. Sherman used a flanking strategy numerous times, finally forcing Johnston to abandon his Kennesaw lines during the night of July 2. Confederates had lost 800 men, the Federals 1800. Sherman got closer to the Chattahoochee River crossing and sent a small force across the river. Johnston had to retreat across the Chattahoochee.

The rest of Sherman’s army crossed the Chattahoochee on July 9 and Johnston withdrew to the fortifications of Atlanta. President Jefferson Davis replaced Johnston with General Hood. Meanwhile Sherman was closing on Atlanta from the north and east. The Grays were a formidable foe but the Union was finally able to break through their defenses and march to Atlanta.

In August, Sherman placed Atlanta under siege, continually shifting troops to cut the city’s rail links to the rest of the South. On August 31, he seized the last one, the Macon & Western. After Hood lost a 2-day battle near Jonesboro, he ordered all public property destroyed and the city evacuated.

During the final siege of Atlanta, Sherman’s troops cut the city’s rail links. Confederate troops evacuated the city on September 1; Sherman entered the following day, September 2. Atlanta had fallen. Sherman telegraphed Washington: “Atlanta is ours, and fairly won.”

The fall of Atlanta, the industrial powerhouse of the Confederacy and the intersection of four major rail lines, crippled the Confederacy’s capacity and will to make war. Coupled with U.S. victories elsewhere, the war’s end was now in sight. In the North, people rejoiced. On November 8, President Abraham Lincoln was re-elected, endorsing a fight to the finish. A week later, Sherman left Atlanta in ruins and began his “March to the Sea.”  Lee surrendered. Thank goodness for that victory because many were calling for a negotiated peace with the south, which might have meant slavery could have been prolonged.

An interesting part of the film was when both sides called for a 2-hour truce to bury the decaying bodies on the hot summer battlefield. The soldiers were buried right where they fell. During the time, the two sides played games and talked like old friends. When the truce ended, they started killing each other again.

The film and museum were fascinating, but I didn’t have time to climb up Kennesaw Mountain, which I hoped to do another day. It was lunchtime and my stomach was calling!

me at our front door preparing to leave for Kennesaw Mountain National Battlefield Park
me at our front door preparing to leave for Kennesaw Mountain National Battlefield Park
Kennesaw Mountain National Battlefield Park
Kennesaw Mountain National Battlefield Park
Kennesaw Mountain National Battlefield Park
Kennesaw Mountain National Battlefield Park
Kennesaw Mountain National Battlefield Park
Kennesaw Mountain National Battlefield Park
Kennesaw Mountain National Battlefield Park
Kennesaw Mountain National Battlefield Park

After lunch, I took a nap and read a bit. Then I wandered around Marietta Square and admired all the colorful murals along the bike trail.I bought Allie a “Peachy” onesie and a “Georgia girl” burp cloth. I also bought myself some earrings and a blouse. 🙂

"Our Town" by Donna Barnhardt
“Our Town” by Donna Barnhardt
"Peach III" by Angelina Faustina
“Peach III” by Angelina Faustina
May-Retta by Olga Sidil Kovskaya & Leah Cochran
May-Retta by Olga Sidil Kovskaya & Leah Cochran
"Chasing History"
“Chasing History”
"Joy 2"
“Joy 2”
"This Could Be" by Christina Kwan
“This Could Be” by Christina Kwan

Mike walked up from our Airbnb to the Square at 5:15 and we had dinner and drinks at Marietta Square Market Food Hall. I enjoyed a Vodka Tonic and Mike a craft beer at Forno Vero. I loved my lobster tacos and Mike his falafel sandwich.

Maine Lobster at Marietta Square Market
Maine Lobster at Marietta Square Market
"Wait for a Dream" mural by Helen Choi
“Wait for a Dream” mural by Helen Choi
"MARIETTA" mural
“MARIETTA” mural
"Big Little Chickens" by Lindsey O'Shields
“Big Little Chickens” by Lindsey O’Shields

In the evening we watched Deadwind and How I Met Your Mother while hoping to hear word of Allie’s birth. We went to bed with no news.

Steps: 9.132; Miles 3.87. Drove 7.8 miles. Weather: Hi 82°, Lo 59°.

Allie arrives! Dinner at Ray’s on the River

Thursday, October 5: Little Alexandra Olivia (Allie) came into the world this morning, Thursday, October 5, at 7:38 a.m. She was a healthy 7 lb. 15 oz. and 21 1/2 inches. We were so happy to welcome her as a new member of our family!

We got to the hospital at 9 a.m. We met adorable little Allie. Apparently Jandira’s mother in Angola exclaimed, “She’s so white!” But the nurse said often a baby of mixed race will turn darker as her blood flows more, after 48 hours or more. She has a full head of black hair. Jandira noted that Allie has her “potato nose,” no bridge with a little bulb at the end.

Mike went downstairs to the cafeteria to get us an egg, chicken sausage and cheese sandwich, a blueberry crumble muffin and coffees. I sat and held sweet Allie for a while. Alex and Jandira were famished and polished off an omelet breakfast. Later, as we were about to leave, they ordered sushi; Jandira hadn’t been allowed to eat raw fish during her pregnancy and she was craving it.

the hospital
the hospital
Women's Center
Women’s Center
Alex and baby Allie
Alex and baby Allie
Mike, Alex and Alli
Mike, Alex and Alli
the proud daddy with Allie
the proud daddy with Allie
Jandira & Allie
Jandira & Allie
Allie's little box of goodies
Allie’s little box of goodies
me with Allie
me with Allie
tiny adorable Allie
tiny adorable Allie
Dad changes his first diaper
Dad changes his first diaper

We returned home after a couple of hours and had a lunch a leftover garbanzo salad and the quinoa and kale patties I had cooked and brought along.

I walked around Marietta again this afternoon, less than 2 miles, just to get a bit of exercise. While walking I saw the 1916 Glover Machine Works Locomotive, restored in 1992. Also the Historic Murray House, circa 1860, and a painted utility box.

MARIETTA mural
MARIETTA mural
1916 Glover Machine Works Locomotive
1916 Glover Machine Works Locomotive
First Baptist Church
First Baptist Church
pretty house in Marietta
pretty house in Marietta
Perception Bridge
Perception Bridge
Historic Murray House
Historic Murray House
painted utility box
painted utility box

We had dinner with Mike’s old high school friend from Ohio, also a Mike, and his friend Nancy at Ray’s on the River. It was a super fancy place (& expensive) but a wonderful treat by Mike C. We all shared an artisanal bread basket (focaccia, pretzel, sourdough, raisin walnut, & lavash). I had a 9-oz Pinot Grigio and then another 6 oz one! 🙂 They all shared a bottle of red wine. I enjoyed a Jumbo Lumb Crabcake, appetizer portion, while Mike had Horseradish-crusted Black Grouper. We also ordered some shareable sides: Corn Creme Brulee, Creamed Spinach and Whipped Potatoes.

Nancy asked if I remembered her; apparently she was a friend of Rosa, my ex-boss at Crestar Bank in Richmond (and Mike’s deceased wife Kerri’s best friend). She said she’d met me before but she couldn’t or wouldn’t say where. I honestly didn’t remember her at all. Still, we had a nice time over an extended meal.

Nancy & Mike C. at Ray’s on the River
Nancy & Mike C. at Ray’s on the River
me with Mike at Ray’s on the River
me with Mike at Ray’s on the River

Steps 7,113; Miles 3.02. Drove 34.5 miles. Weather: Hi 80°, Lo 59°.

We still had five more days in Atlanta to spend time with our new granddaughter and to explore Atlanta before heading west on October 11.

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  • Europe
  • Fiumicino
  • Hikes & Walks

via francigena: la giustiniana -> vatican city & a day in roma

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 February 14, 2024
La Giustiniana to Vatican City (walked)

Friday, July 28, 2023: We left Resort La Rocchetta in La Giustiniana on Friday morning at 5:10 a.m. I put my backpack in reception, with 180 euros attached in an envelope to pay Bags-Free for transporting my backpack today and for my suitcase they’d picked up in Lucca, stored in Rome and would deliver to The Beehive; this was where I would stay in Rome.

We went out to the Via Cassia, the main road, to catch the 210 bus to the entrance of the Insugherata Nature Reserve. We wanted to avoid walking along the busy road. We eventually started walking at 6 a.m.

The Riserva Naturale dell’Insugherata is basically the watershed of the Acqua Traversa stream. It is home to cork oak (Italian: insughera) and many other species of plants and animals, including apparently flocks of sheep (which we didn’t see). The area is just at the fringe of the apartments and cars of suburban Rome.

We walked for about 4km along a flat dirt path alongside the Acqua Traversa stream, at the floor of the canyon, with apartment blocks occasionally visible on either ridge. We could hear the stream but rarely saw it because of fencing on one side and thick bushes on the other. It was like walking in a long tunnel. Then the park opened up and we could see apartment buildings high on the ridge ahead.

walking through the Riserva Naturale dell’Insugherata
walking through the Riserva Naturale dell’Insugherata
walking through the Riserva Naturale dell’Insugherata
walking through the Riserva Naturale dell’Insugherata
walking through the Riserva Naturale dell’Insugherata
walking through the Riserva Naturale dell’Insugherata
walking through the Riserva Naturale dell’Insugherata
walking through the Riserva Naturale dell’Insugherata
walking through the Riserva Naturale dell’Insugherata
walking through the Riserva Naturale dell’Insugherata
our long shadows in the Riserva Naturale dell’Insugherata
our long shadows in the Riserva Naturale dell’Insugherata
sign for Via Francigena in the Riserva Naturale dell’Insugherata
sign for Via Francigena in the Riserva Naturale dell’Insugherata

Leaving the reserve, we climbed a very steep hill in the midst of cars and apartment buildings in the neighborhood of Sant’ Onofrio. Finally, at the top of the hill we turned left onto a commercial street. We made our first bar stop in Rome. An older gentleman with long white hair was nice enough to share his table with two tired pilgrims. Here I had a cappuccino and croissant and Darina had her hot milk 🥛 and  croissant. As we left, the white-haired man called out to me. After 3 weeks of walking (& taking buses), I had left my hiking poles behind. Thank goodness he alerted me; to have lost my poles right at the end would have been a sad state of affairs.

Darina at our first bar stop in Rome
Darina at our first bar stop in Rome
the bar
the bar

After we left the bar, it was walking on city streets for quite a while. Somehow we got off the Via Francigena because in cities the path is never well marked. We had to backtrack and follow another road to the first gate of Monte Mario Park. We climbed the trail, sometimes steep and rutted, and at the top, amidst trash overflowing the bins and scattered all around, we enjoyed our first vista over Rome’s northern neighborhoods.

We descended and climbed again for a second vista, then we skirted a metal fence surrounding the Astronomical Observatory of Rome. We soon found ourselves back at the Via Trionfale, a quiet arterial road.

first vista over Rome’s northern neighborhoods
first vista over Rome’s northern neighborhoods
vista over Rome’s northern neighborhoods
vista over Rome’s northern neighborhoods
path leading from the first vista
path leading from the first vista

Eventually we re-entered Monte Mario Park, following a path to the first viewpoint over the southern neighborhoods of Rome. Here, again amidst a bunch of rubbish strewn everywhere, we caught our first vista of St. Peter’s Basilica.

view of Rome's southern neighborhoods from Monte Mario Park
view of Rome’s southern neighborhoods from Monte Mario Park
view of St. Peter's from Monte Mario Park
view of St. Peter’s from Monte Mario Park
Darina & me in Monte Mario Park
Darina & me in Monte Mario Park
Darina & me in Monte Mario Park
Darina & me in Monte Mario Park
me at the overlook in Darina & me in Monte Mario Park
me at the overlook in Darina & me in Monte Mario Park
view of St. Peter's from Darina & me in Monte Mario Park
view of St. Peter’s from Darina & me in Monte Mario Park

At last, we followed a rough cobblestone path as it descended in switchbacks almost to the lower gate of the park. Suddenly, on one of the bottom-most switchbacks, the path was totally blocked by a thick wall of bushes and vines. There was no way though or around it. I said, “What the hell!? There is no way I’m climbing all the way back to the top!” Backtracking to the opposite end of the switchback with the dreaded Wall of Bushes, I saw a very steep path down to the next switchback and I spotted a man lying on a bench with no shirt on. I yelled to him, “Buongiorno! How did you get down there?” Luckily he spoke some English and showed us the steep path down and how we could hold on to trees as we went down the slope. I went mostly down on my butt, holding desperately to the trees along the way. I finally made it down and Darina soon followed, with her heavy backpack, holding on to the trees the whole way. It was crazy.

Stupidly, neither Darina or I thought to take a photo of the Wall of Bushes, but I found a post on a Facebook Via Francigena group by Paola Verando. She had written about this crazy wall of bushes and had taken two pictures, which she gave me permission to use. The first, below, shows the wall of bushes, and the second shows her going down the steep cliff-like path (with her bike, no less!) to the lower switchback.

the dreaded Wall of Bushes (photo by Paola Verando - used with her permission)
the dreaded Wall of Bushes (photo by Paola Verando – used with her permission)
The steep path down to the lower switchback. This is Paola Verando with a bicycle. We didn't have a bike but had to do the same thing. (photo by Paola Verando - used with her permission)
The steep path down to the lower switchback. This is Paola Verando with a bicycle. We didn’t have a bike but had to do the same thing. (photo by Paola Verando – used with her permission)

Both of us were appalled at the state of this city park. Garbage everywhere and then that impenetrable Wall of Bushes almost at the bottom of the switchbacks, with no warning sign anywhere to indicate there was such a blockage. Don’t they hire anyone to maintain their parks?  All someone needed to do was to cut that wall of bushes down with either machetes or a bulldozer or plow. And to have someone routinely clean up the garbage. This is Italy for you, in a nutshell.

So far, we had not been impressed with our approach to Rome.

Finally we escaped through the bottom gate of that pathetic city park and headed down a wide green boulevard, the Viale Angelico, for 2km, passing finally the tall Vatican City Walls and coming to the colonnade of St. Peter’s Square at the foot of St. Peter’s Basilica.

Surrounding us were imposing statues of popes, martyrs, evangelists, and saints carved by Bernini and his students. Hundreds of tourists lined up for either the Vatican Museums or the Basilica.

In front of us was St. Peter’s Basilica, still, after 500 years, the largest church building in the world at an astounding 15,000 square meters.

In the square is also the 4,000 year old Egyptian obelisk, brought to Rome by Emperor Caligula in 37AD to grace his Roman Circus, which stood to the left of the current basilica. The two 17th-century Moderno and Bernini fountains are also works of art.

We celebrated by hugging each other and taking lots of pictures. While most people were dressed nicely to come to such a place, we looked sweaty, tired and filthy after our 10 1/2 mile walk. Plus we looked pretty frumpy in our baggy hiking clothes.

St. Peter’s Square & St. Peter’s Basilica
St. Peter’s Square & St. Peter’s Basilica
St. Peter’s Square & St. Peter’s Basilica
St. Peter’s Square & St. Peter’s Basilica
Darina & me at St. Peter’s Square
Darina & me at St. Peter’s Square
me with Darina at St. Peter’s Square
me with Darina at St. Peter’s Square
me at St. Peter’s Square
me at St. Peter’s Square
Darina at St. Peter’s Square
Darina at St. Peter’s Square
me at St. Peter’s Square
me at St. Peter’s Square
St. Peter’s Square & St. Peter’s Basilica
St. Peter’s Square & St. Peter’s Basilica
St. Peter’s Square & St. Peter’s Basilica
St. Peter’s Square & St. Peter’s Basilica
St. Peter’s Basilica
St. Peter’s Basilica
Darina in front of St. Peter's Basilica
Darina in front of St. Peter’s Basilica

Our first order of business was to get our Testimonium Completion Certificate. Our guidebook told us to go to the St. Peter’s Square Office of the Opera Romana Pellegrinaggi. Here was where people started passing the buck. They gave us a stamp for our credenciale but said they didn’t issue the Testimonium. We had to go the Sacristy of the Basilica. In order to bypass the long lines as pilgrims, we had to ask the police to let us go to the front of the line. We did that and asked a guard at the entrance where to get the Testimonium. He didn’t know but said it wasn’t in the Basilica. We went to the Sacristy but were told it wasn’t there but outside the entrance to the left and downstairs near the bathrooms. Sure enough, that was where we found it, at the bag check near the bathrooms.

The Testimonium was not as official as the Compostella in Santiago. We wrote in our own names and the guy barely looked at our pilgrim  passports. He gave them to us in big cumbersome envelopes which would surely get crushed in our bags. I had managed to walk the required 100 km in total: 127.96 miles, or 205.4 km. My walk was about 60% of the distance I had intended to walk. Darina’s walk was much longer as she walked most days except for two.

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my Testimonium

We then wandered all through the Basilica, wearing paper skirts because our shorts were too short. We admired all corners of its magnificent interior. Finally I couldn’t take any more. I found a sliver of shade outside the door to the coat check and sat and waited for Darina.

St. Peter’s Basilica
St. Peter’s Basilica
inside St. Peter’s Basilica
inside St. Peter’s Basilica
inside St. Peter’s Basilica
inside St. Peter’s Basilica
inside St. Peter’s Basilica
inside St. Peter’s Basilica
me wearing the dopey skirt in St. Peter's Basilica
me wearing the dopey skirt in St. Peter’s Basilica
Darina & me in St. Peter's Basilica
Darina & me in St. Peter’s Basilica
Darina in St. Peter's Basilica
Darina in St. Peter’s Basilica
St. Peter's Basilica
St. Peter’s Basilica
St. Peter's Basilica
St. Peter’s Basilica
St. Peter's Basilica
St. Peter’s Basilica
St. Peter's Basilica
St. Peter’s Basilica
St. Peter's Basilica
St. Peter’s Basilica
Darina in St. Peter's Basilica
Darina in St. Peter’s Basilica
Darina & me in St. Peter's Basilica
Darina & me in St. Peter’s Basilica
St. Peter's Basilica
St. Peter’s Basilica
St. Peter's Basilica
St. Peter’s Basilica
St. Peter's Basilica
St. Peter’s Basilica
St. Peter's Basilica
St. Peter’s Basilica
St. Peter's Basilica
St. Peter’s Basilica
St. Peter's Basilica
St. Peter’s Basilica
St. Peter's Basilica
St. Peter’s Basilica
St. Peter's Basilica
St. Peter’s Basilica

After happening upon the changing of the guard, we stopped on our way to the metro at Osteria Faruso. I had a pizza with fried zucchini flowers and anchovies and Darina had one with truffle sauce, cherry tomatoes and basil. I was starving after our long walk and getting the runaround at the Vatican!

The guards at the Vatican
The guards at the Vatican
pizzas at Osteria Faruso
pizzas at Osteria Faruso
Osteria Faruso
Osteria Faruso

We took the metro to Termini station and walked to The Beehive, where I was relieved and happy to find both my backpack and my suitcase had been delivered by Bags-Free. Darina and I had gotten separate rooms; of course I paid extra for air-conditioning. I went to my room in a separate building and showered, then napped for a while. I was exhausted.

The Beehive
The Beehive
The Beehive
The Beehive
The Beehive
The Beehive

Later Darina and I went to dinner at Trattoria dell’Omo, a great family restaurant where people were waiting in line to get in before it opened at 7:30. Darina and I both had the same thing: gnocchi with zucchini and crawfish, accompanied by wine and beer of course. We cheered each other for the completion of our journey. I had walked about 205km out of the 355km we had planned while Darina had walked about 335 km (about 94%). That was minor compared to the 790km I walked on the Camino de Santiago in 2018, but with an additional five years of age, the super long and tough stages without services, and the extreme heat, I was happy to have completed what I did. So many times, I was ready to give up altogether, so I’m happy I at least accompanied Darina through the stages, even by bus, and stuck it through to the end.

Darina at Trattoria dell’Omo
Darina at Trattoria dell’Omo
me at Trattoria dell’Omo
me at Trattoria dell’Omo
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I do know that I will never again do a long distance walk unless it’s fully supported and I will never again travel to southern Europe in summer. And my lesson from this walk has been, like Dorothy in The Wizard of Oz discovered: “There is no place like home.”

Steps: 33,093 steps; Miles: 14.04. Day 13 Stage Walk: 10.5 miles, or 16.95 km.

Weather (Rome): High 88°, Low 67°. Sunny.

A day in Roma

Saturday, July 29: After sleeping in, writing in my journal, posting photos on Polarsteps, and doing a little shopping at Termini Station, I talked to the Beehive about arranging a taxi to the airport Sunday morning. I had a big suitcase plus my backpack and I preferred not to lug all of that to Termini on a train to the airport.

Darina wanted to do some touristy things today and I decidedly didn’t want to do anything touristy, so we went our separate ways, agreeing to meet later for our last dinner together before we both departed Sunday. Darina would leave Sunday afternoon for Padua and then on to walk a section of her Austrian Camino. She has a goal to complete the whole Camino de Santiago from her home in Slovakia, in segments each year.

Yuli at the Beehive told me to look on their app for places to eat and I found the fantastic Korean restaurant, Gainn, just two blocks away. I had a delicious Dolsat Bimbimbap, a nice change from the pasta and pizza I’d been eating for the last 6 weeks. Plus a bonus, the restaurant was air-conditioned. 😍😍🇰🇷🥢🍚

Gainn
Gainn
me at Gainn
me at Gainn
Dolsat Bimbimbap
Dolsat Bimbimbap
Dolsat Bimbimbap & accompaniments
Dolsat Bimbimbap & accompaniments

The only touristy thing I did was to visit Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, a Major papal basilica as well as one of the Seven Pilgrim Churches of Rome and the largest Catholic Marian church in Rome.

According to Wikipedia:

“The basilica enshrines the venerated image of Salus Populi Romani, depicting the Blessed Virgin Mary as the health and protectress of the Roman people.

“Pursuant to the Lateran Treaty of 1929 between the Holy See and Italy, the Basilica is within Italian territory and not the territory of the Vatican City State. However, the Holy See fully owns the Basilica, and Italy is legally obligated to recognize its full ownership thereof and to concede to it ‘the immunity granted by International Law to the headquarters of the diplomatic agents of foreign States.’ In other words, the complex of buildings has a status somewhat similar to a foreign embassy.”

the back of Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
the back of Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
side view of Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
side view of Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
inside Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
inside Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
inside Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
inside Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
inside Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
inside Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
inside Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
inside Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
inside Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
inside Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
inside Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
inside Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
inside Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
inside Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
inside Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
inside Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
inside Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
inside Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
inside Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
inside Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
inside Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
inside Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
inside Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
inside Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
inside Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
inside Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
inside Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
inside Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
inside Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
inside Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
inside Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
inside Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
inside Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
inside Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
inside Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
inside Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore

Tonight was our last night in Rome. Who knew when I would meet Darina again? I hoped we would meet again because even though we are very different, we understand each other and share a similar sense of humor. I was going to miss her and our adventure. We ate at the same restaurant where we ate the previous night, Trattoria dell’Omo. I had meatballs and Darina had pasta with bacon and pecorino. Ever generous, she gave me a gift of a little change purse with a painting of the Colosseum; she used these kinds of change purses for her money on our trip and I thought they were a great idea. She gave me one with a picture of the Colosseum because I’d been to Rome twice and still hadn’t seen the inside of the famous place. Someday I might go back, maybe when I’m 80 or so, but it won’t be in summer.

Darina at Trattoria dell’Omo
Darina at Trattoria dell’Omo
me at Trattoria dell’Omo
me at Trattoria dell’Omo
me with Darina at Trattoria dell’Omo on our last night in Rome
me with Darina at Trattoria dell’Omo on our last night in Rome
me at Trattoria dell’Omo
me at Trattoria dell’Omo

I have much gratitude to Darina for putting up with my grumpiness & irritability, my long convoluted stories and my snoring! She was a great person to be on pilgrimage with. 🙏🏻🙏🏻

Again, the final PolarSteps of our trip to Italy
Again, the final PolarSteps of our trip to Italy
Again, the final PolarSteps of the Via Francigena
Again, the final PolarSteps of the Via Francigena

Steps: 9,618 Miles: 4.08.

Weather (Rome): High 91°, Low 68°. Sunny.

The long flight home

Sunday, July 30:  Igor from Moldova picked me up Sunday morning to take me to the airport in a private car for 50€. He talked the entire time about which passports were the best, about family names, and about how he could go anywhere on a whim to work as a driver.

I arrived at Fiumicino Airport by 7:30 am and went through all the regular rigamarole. I had a cappuccino and egg sandwich at Caffe Kimbo.  The plane was fully boarded. I was on my way to Washington-Dulles in 9 hours and 22 minutes. 4,491 miles. Lunch would be served and I really hoped I could sleep!

I only slept, as it turned out, for 2 hours, after watching The Book Club. I enjoyed the spicy lentil over rice lunch and watched continuous episodes of Curb Your Enthusiasm, happily knocking off half-hour blocks of time.

My plane landed at Dulles in Washington at about 2:10 and I was home by 3:00. Mike had just made it back from a long weekend with his high school friends in Ohio, an annual event they call “Ohiolander,” to pick me up at the airport.  It was a long day of travel  but I was grateful to be home!

Steps: 6,780. Miles: 2.87.

The Via Francigena is an ancient road and pilgrimage route that runs from Canterbury, England, through France and Switzerland, to Rome and then to Apulia, Italy, where there were ports of embarkation for the Holy Land. In around 990, Archbishop Sigeric journeyed from Canterbury to Rome and back, but only documented his itinerary on the return journey, taken in 80 stages averaging about 12 miles (20 km) a day, for a total of some 1,100 miles (1,700 km).

This is the continuing saga of our attempt to walk the stages from Lucca to Rome, which are, in total, about 255.07 miles (410.5 km). Since we had to cut out stages due to time constraints, our actual goal was to walk 211.77 miles ( 340.8 km).

FINAL running tally: (Day 13/21 of walking): 127.96 /211.77 miles (205.94/340.8 km). (I walked 13 days out of the 21 we had planned to walk. I think Darina walked 19 of those days).

Overall, the Via Francigena is a very difficult walk mainly because Italians have very little interest in pilgrims. The stages are long and difficult without many breaks in the stages. There are few pilgrim accommodations and even fewer pilgrims; we rarely saw anyone on our entire walk. Of course, for me, the heat was the worst challenge. Apparently there were two heat domes from Africa that settled over Italy during our walk, making the days unbearable. Most churches were closed along the way, and for me, the walk felt all about survival, and not spirituality. Darina is a person of faith, so I believe she found it more rewarding in that way; all I could do was put one foot in front of the other, drink a lot of water, and hope that I didn’t perish along the way.

All of that being said, I will always have warm memories of the evenings spent with Darina, drinking wine, chatting about anything and everything, laughing and eating fantastic Italian food.

I walked the complete 790km of the Camino de Santiago in 2018 and loved it. This was an entirely different experience, and I wouldn’t recommend it unless a person really enjoys hardship.

This post is in response to Jo’s Monday walk: Alvor to Portimão.

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  • Campagnano di Roma
  • Europe
  • Formello

via francigena: campagnano di roma -> formello -> la giustiniana

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 February 7, 2024
Campagnano di Roma to Formello (walked)

Wednesday, July 26, 2023: We left Hostel Gheltrude in Campagnano di Roma at 6:10 am this morning. I carried my pack today because the distance to Formello was short (~9km) and it was supposed to be 10 degrees cooler than it had been over the last two weeks, around 89 degrees. Besides, I had cancelled all my bag transports with Bags-Free and didn’t trust them to deliver in a timely manner.

We headed out of town through the Porta Romana city gate and forked to the left. We were on the SP10A roadway, heading uphill and out of town. We found a fountain and rest area, too early in the walk to be much use, and then climbed steeply for a long time. We kept going on asphalt. We then entered Park Veio, a 15,000 hectare park established by the region of Lazio in 1997 as part of a plan to preserve a green belt of natural and agricultural areas around Rome. This park was the setting for much of today’s walk.

leaving Campagnano di Roma
leaving Campagnano di Roma
leaving Campagnano di Roma
leaving Campagnano di Roma
leaving Campagnano di Roma
leaving Campagnano di Roma
leaving Campagnano di Roma
leaving Campagnano di Roma
me with a fellow pilgrim
me with a fellow pilgrim
walking on asphalt with pretty views around
walking on asphalt with pretty views around
walking on asphalt with pretty views around
walking on asphalt with pretty views around
me walking on asphalt with pretty views around
me walking on asphalt with pretty views around

We finally came to the Santuario del Sorbo where we climbed a steep uphill to the entrance. Legends say that in a visitation at this serene site, the Virgin Mary miraculously regrew a local farmer’s withered hand. In the 15th-century, Cardinal Orsini built a church and convent in honor of the vision over the ruins of a 10th-century castle.

Above the church’s altar is an 11th-century icon of the Virgin and Child. A colorful fresco of the Assumption of Mary into heaven adorns the apse.

We spent some time at the sanctuary where it was cool and there were benches and tables where we could rest for a while, as well as a nice bathroom. Darina wanted to pray the rosary 📿 there and said it would take some time. It was maybe a half hour but I was happy to rest. I didn’t know how she could sit in those Italian churches for mass or for long periods as they were always hot and muggy with stagnant air. I could barely go in to sit and say a prayer and take a few pictures before I needed to escape.

I found myself to be much less interested in the spiritual aspect of the Via Francigena than I felt while doing the Camino de Santiago in 2018. I don’t know why that was. Maybe because the path was challenging and miserable, the heat was extreme and we rarely encountered any other pilgrims. There were very few towns in the middle of the stages, and most of the churches were closed. It wasn’t the same communal atmosphere and my heart just wasn’t into it. Plus, lately I have been troubled by the Catholic patriarchy, especially after the overturning of Roe v. Wade and the extreme right decisions by the U.S. Supreme Court, taking away all of women’s freedoms. I’m a fallen-away Catholic anyway; I fell away years ago, in my 20s, and though I felt a resurgence of interest during my Camino experience, it has since evaporated.

Santuario del Sorbo
Santuario del Sorbo
Santuario del Sorbo
Santuario del Sorbo
Santuario del Sorbo
Santuario del Sorbo
Santuario del Sorbo
Santuario del Sorbo
Santuario del Sorbo
Santuario del Sorbo
Santuario del Sorbo
Santuario del Sorbo
Santuario del Sorbo
Santuario del Sorbo

After our visit to the sanctuary, we walked back downhill to the route and followed as it descended deeper into the forested valley. We were on asphalt almost the entire day, which was fine by me. On the valley floor, we crossed the Cremera Torrente on a small bridge and then crossed a cattle grid onto a very wide gravel road leading into open pasture land. There were a surprising number of cars driving past and kicking up dust.

We found a marble monument declaring 36km to Rome, erected by the Via Francigena confraternity of Formello. We passed an ugly rusted arched steel sculpture and then the road climbed steeply, back again on asphalt. Just before a second cattle grid, we saw three horned cows lumbering slowly across the road, oblivious to us interlopers.

walking to Formello
walking to Formello
marble monument declaring 36km to Rome, erected by the Via Francigena confraternity of Formello
marble monument declaring 36km to Rome, erected by the Via Francigena confraternity of Formello
marble monument declaring 36km to Rome, erected by the Via Francigena confraternity of Formello
marble monument declaring 36km to Rome, erected by the Via Francigena confraternity of Formello
cattle crossing
cattle crossing

We then started seeing houses as we approached Formello on its main traffic street. We found a very nice bar near the main small piazza into the old town. We sat at the bar for a long time waiting until our house was ready for check-in. Finally it was ready and we traipsed to the farthest end of town.

a pretty square on the way to our apartment
a pretty square on the way to our apartment
a pretty square on the way to our apartment
a pretty square on the way to our apartment
a pretty square on the way to our apartment
a pretty square on the way to our apartment

We checked into a beautiful house, Il Rosciolo sulla Francigena, with a living room, kitchen, dining room, 2 bathrooms, terra cotta tiled floors, lots of steps including a narrow winding staircase to the upstairs bedroom with 2 twin beds. And surprise, we had air conditioning! The only negative was no real pilgrim amenities like a drying rack to hang our laundry. An entire breakfast basket sat beautifully prepared in the refrigerator. The whole place was a far cry from our tiny matchbox-sized house the night before, for nearly the same price: 60 euros for the shoebox house and 65 euros for today’s sprawling home.

Il Rosciolo sulla Francigena
Il Rosciolo sulla Francigena
Darina in front of our house, Il Rosciolo sulla Francigena
Darina in front of our house, Il Rosciolo sulla Francigena
inside Il Rosciolo sulla Francigena
inside Il Rosciolo sulla Francigena
inside Il Rosciolo sulla Francigena
inside Il Rosciolo sulla Francigena

We showered and did laundry and walked back out the main gate, stopping first at the 11th-century Church of San Lorenzo and the Piazza Chigi, which houses an archeological museum and pilgrim hostel reached by glass stairs that recount the journey from a Canterbury to Rome on the Via Francigena. We never found these stairs, sadly.

Formello, population ~13,000, is a car-focused Roman commuter town and is supposedly the last picturesque neighborhood on the Via Francigena before Rome.

Church of San Lorenzo
Church of San Lorenzo
Church of San Lorenzo
Church of San Lorenzo
Church of San Lorenzo
Church of San Lorenzo
Church of San Lorenzo
Church of San Lorenzo
Church of San Lorenzo
Church of San Lorenzo
Church of San Lorenzo
Church of San Lorenzo
Church of San Lorenzo
Church of San Lorenzo
Piazza Chigi
Piazza Chigi
Formello
Formello
Formello
Formello

We went back to the bar and had sandwiches and beers. We went on a wild goose chase to find a place to buy a bus ticket for tomorrow. I finally found one and then we returned to the house to relax.

We went to La Cantina, not far from our house in the old town, for dinner. I had Paccheri short pasta with bacon, spicy tomato sauce and king prawns. The big round tubes of pasta were cooked so “al dente” that is was almost like they were dumped directly from the box onto my plate; they were very chewy. The sauce was tasty but I had search to find pieces of shrimp and bacon. Darina’s meal was better: Tonnarello with peas, crunchy bacon and pecorino cheese fondue. I had white wine from the region and Darina had a beer. We each got “ricotta and chocolate tart,” which was a very hard cookie with whipped cream and chocolate chips on top. Maybe it was my least favorite meal in Italy.

We did enjoy a great bread basket with warm rolls and olive oil. It was strange that the chef came out to take our order, maybe because the waitress didn’t speak any English.

dinner at La Cantina
dinner at La Cantina
Darina at La Cantina
Darina at La Cantina
me at La Cantina
me at La Cantina
me with Darina at La Cantina
me with Darina at La Cantina

Here is a map showing first, our whole trip to Italy and second, the steps on the Via Francigena.

our whole trip to Italy, starting in Venice
our whole trip to Italy, starting in Venice
the stages on our Via Francigena
the stages on our Via Francigena

Steps: 20,823 steps; Miles: 8.83. Day 11 Stage Walk: 6.69 miles, or 10.76 km.

Weather (Formello): High 89°, Low 64°. Sunny.

Formello to La Giustiniana (by bus)

Thursday, July 27: On Thursday morning, I left our beautiful house in Formello at 9:00 and went to our favorite bar to have a cappuccino and to wait for the 10:10 bus to one of the Rome suburbs, La Giustiniana. Darina of course had walked and had left around 6:00. An Italian guy named Federico spoke a bit of English and struck up a conversation. He told me he was a volunteer fireman in the countryside and also an architect. He said he had been to New York in the fall before the Twin Towers fell, in 2000. I told him my son was considering becoming a firefighter (luckily that idea was short-lived!) and I didn’t like it because it seems incredibly dangerous. He said it is only dangerous if you don’t know what you’re doing.

I went to the bus stop before 10 (just in case the bus came early because one thing was guaranteed: they never came at the scheduled time). The bus stop was in front of the bar with no seat and no shade, so I stood there waiting for the 10:10 bus. By 10:20, I was wondering if the Google bus schedule was wrong and was about to go back to the bar when the bus finally appeared.

I arrived in La Giustiniana by 11:00 and walked up about 15 minutes to Resort La Rocchetta. I was appalled by the amount of trash that was strewn along the Via Cassia and overflowing out of the giant trash bins. It looked and smelled horrible. Once I got off the Via Cassia, the neighborhoods were nice and clean. I’d commented to Darina many times about how strange it was in Europe that everyone lived behind big locked gates. It seemed rather paranoid, this way of life.She had been to the US and she thought it strange we didn’t live behind locked gates.  We do have gated communities in the U.S., but I don’t live in one.

The Resort was unable or unwilling to give us an early check-in so I sat in the garden and had a Coke Zero while the woman who owned the place talked away about her 3-year-old grandson Ian who lived in Ventura, California. She was disappointed they were so far away but what could she do? Her son married an American woman after all. The dog on the property was named Olivia and I told her my soon-to-be granddaughter would be named Alexandra Olivia.

La Rocchetta
La Rocchetta
reception desk at La Rocchetta
reception desk at La Rocchetta

Meanwhile I was in touch with Darina who was waiting for a bus from La Storta. She said she’d arrive around noon. I told her to get off the bus and walk straight ahead and I’d meet her at the bar there for some lunch because the Resort had no food. I was having an old and stale zucchini and cheese pizza and a beer and she joined and had a sandwich and beer. We were both appalled that the bathroom in the bar had no water coming out of the faucet and we didn’t like the idea of eating food prepared by people who weren’t washing their hands after going to the bathroom. Yikes!

We walked up to La Rocchetta and finally checked in, did laundry (I was still awfully sweaty even when I didn’t walk) and then napped. At 4:00, we came down to have a glass of wine in the garden and found the entire reception closed for the day. I didn’t even have any coins to get a drink or snack out of the vending machine.

We talked about walking to Vatican City the next day. Darina said it would be a shame if I didn’t walk into Rome and I had to say I agreed. So we decided we would walk together into Rome, first taking a bus to the entrance of the Insugherata Nature Reserve to avoid walking along the busy (& stinky) Via Cassia.

Darina and I sat in the reception area writing in our journals when an Australian woman named Anna joined us. She and two friends and their three daughters were walking the Via Francigena for one week, from Montefiasconi to Rome, fully supported and arranged by a travel company. In a previous year, they had walked in Tuscany, from San Miniato to Siena. Anna’s husband would join her in Rome after a golf outing in Ireland, and then they would go to the Greek islands. She had already been to Sicily and took an Italian class in Bologna for a week. As Aussies, they take extended holidays to make travel worth their while. She was traveling for 7 weeks altogether, just a bit longer than me at 6+ weeks.

HSWgSo55TSyxReuJZstIAQ

reception area at La Rocchetta

At the 7:30 appointed dinner hour, we walked back to the trashy Main Street and had dinner at Antica Osteria Pietro. It was a cavernous restaurant but, besides Darina and me, there was only one other customer. I enjoyed a glass of white wine and ravioli with butter and sage. Darina had a beer and Pappardelle with wild boar sauce.

me at Antica Osteria Pietro
me at Antica Osteria Pietro
ravioli with butter and sage
ravioli with butter and sage
Darina at Antica Osteria Pietro
Darina at Antica Osteria Pietro
Pappardelle with wild boar sauce
Pappardelle with wild boar sauce

After deciding I would walk into Rome, I had arranged with Bags-Free for them to pick up my backpack from La Rocchetta since already they had to deliver my suitcase, which they’d been holding for me since Lucca, to the Beehive in Rome. I had to leave 180€ in cash for them in a plastic baggie attached to my backpack, so I made a video of me putting the cash into the bag in case someone absconded with the money.

We went to bed early to prepare for our final walk into Rome on Friday.

Steps: 9,769; Miles: 4.14. No Stage Walk today for me. I took the bus while Darina walked.

Weather (La Giustiniana): High 90°, Low 64°. Sunny.

The Via Francigena is an ancient road and pilgrimage route that runs from Canterbury, England, through France and Switzerland, to Rome and then to Apulia, Italy, where there were ports of embarkation for the Holy Land. In around 990, Archbishop Sigeric journeyed from Canterbury to Rome and back, but only documented his itinerary on the return journey, taken in 80 stages averaging about 12 miles (20 km) a day, for a total of some 1,100 miles (1,700 km).

This is the continuing saga of our attempt to walk the stages from Lucca to Rome, which are, in total, about 255.07 miles (410.5 km). Since we had to cut out stages due to time constraints, our actual goal was to walk 211.77 miles ( 340.8 km).

Running tally: (Day 12 of walking): 117.45 /211.77 miles (188.99/340.8 km).

This post is in response to Jo’s Monday Walk: Laranjeira.

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  • Cocktail Hour
  • Monthly recap
  • Photography

the january cocktail hour: museum exhibits on the american west, snow days, dining out & movies

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 January 31, 2024

Wednesday, January 31, 2024: Welcome to our January cocktail hour! I’ve decided to try a revival of my monthly cocktail hour since it is too time consuming for most people to read my year-end recap. I’ll still be doing a shortened version of the year-end recap, with fewer details and photos.

Please come inside where it’s dry and warm. I can offer you a a special cocktail concocted by Mike using Darina’s gift to us of Tatratea, a Slovakian liqueur with 52% alcohol content! (Mike’s cocktail includes coconut water, seltzer, lime juice and mint leaves). We have vowed to have a “damp January,” reducing our drinking nights to Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays, although we haven’t been very successful at keeping to that schedule. I can also offer sodas or seltzer water of various flavors.

Winter is here, solidly entrenched, with a few abnormal spring-like days thrown in. We had snow and sub-freezing temperatures the third week in January, which accumulated, stuck around for 4 days, and then vanished with the arrival of oddly spring-like days; this week we’re under drizzle and clouds.

I hope 2024 has started out well for you so far. Have you read any good books, seen any good movies, binge-watched any television series? Have you learned anything new, taken any classes or just kept up with the news? Have you marched or otherwise participated in political protests?   Have you been planning your adventures for the year? Have you had any winter getaways? Have you sung along with any new songs? Have you dreamed any dreams? Gone to any exotic restaurants, cooked any new dishes? Have you undertaken any new exercise routines?

I have continued doing yoga once a week, rowing at The RowHouse once a week, and walking the rest of the time (weather permitting). I’m trying my best to stay fit as I get older and approach the big 7-0 in 2025!

I was a bit unsettled as I began the year by reading the book 1968: The Year that Rocked the World. In the first chapter it was mentioned that in 1968, New Year’s Day was a Monday and the year was to be a Leap Year, both of which are true also for 2024. I read about the 7.5-magnitude earthquake on New Year’s Day that rattled Ishikawa prefecture on the main island of Honshu in Japan and killed at least 64 people. On Tuesday, January 2, I read about the Japan Airlines flight in Tokyo that caught fire on the runway after colliding with a Japanese Coast Guard plane; miraculously all 367 passengers and 12 crew were safely evacuated, although 5 in the Coast Guard plane were killed. I was struck and a somewhat shaken by all of these incidents in the similarity between 1968, a year of upheaval, and in the two incidents in Japan, our hoped-for travel destination in October of this year.

Mike and I went to the National Gallery of Art to see “Dorothea Lange: Seeing People,” mostly black & white photos of people barely surviving the Great Depression and the Dust Bowl years. This was fascinating to me as I’d just finished reading The Four Winds by Kristin Hannah at the end of November. Looking into the faces of people who struggled to survive so long ago, during those awful times, I imagined the characters in the book as those people whose faces were captured in these photos. The exhibit begged for reflection and for gratitude that so far we have been lucky in life.

"Dorothea Lange: Seeing People" at the National Gallery of Art
“Dorothea Lange: Seeing People” at the National Gallery of Art
"Dorothea Lange: Seeing People" at the National Gallery of Art
“Dorothea Lange: Seeing People” at the National Gallery of Art
"Dorothea Lange: Seeing People" at the National Gallery of Art
“Dorothea Lange: Seeing People” at the National Gallery of Art
"Dorothea Lange: Seeing People" at the National Gallery of Art
“Dorothea Lange: Seeing People” at the National Gallery of Art
"Dorothea Lange: Seeing People" at the National Gallery of Art
“Dorothea Lange: Seeing People” at the National Gallery of Art
"Dorothea Lange: Seeing People" at the National Gallery of Art
“Dorothea Lange: Seeing People” at the National Gallery of Art
"Dorothea Lange: Seeing People" at the National Gallery of Art
“Dorothea Lange: Seeing People” at the National Gallery of Art
"Dorothea Lange: Seeing People" at the National Gallery of Art
“Dorothea Lange: Seeing People” at the National Gallery of Art
"Dorothea Lange: Seeing People" at the National Gallery of Art
“Dorothea Lange: Seeing People” at the National Gallery of Art
"Dorothea Lange: Seeing People" at the National Gallery of Art
“Dorothea Lange: Seeing People” at the National Gallery of Art
"Dorothea Lange: Seeing People" at the National Gallery of Art
“Dorothea Lange: Seeing People” at the National Gallery of Art
"Dorothea Lange: Seeing People" at the National Gallery of Art
“Dorothea Lange: Seeing People” at the National Gallery of Art
"Dorothea Lange: Seeing People" at the National Gallery of Art
“Dorothea Lange: Seeing People” at the National Gallery of Art
"Dorothea Lange: Seeing People" at the National Gallery of Art
“Dorothea Lange: Seeing People” at the National Gallery of Art
me in front of the cascading waterfall on the concourse level going from the East Wing to the West Wing of the National Gallery of Art
me in front of the cascading waterfall on the concourse level going from the East Wing to the West Wing of the National Gallery of Art
Christmas trees in the museum gift shop
Christmas trees in the museum gift shop

The other exhibit we saw there was “The Land Carries Our Ancestors,” which compiled works by a group of nearly 50 living Native artists practicing across the United States. Their powerful expressions reflect the diversity of Native American cultural identities and show a deep reverence for the land.

"The Land Carries Our Ancestors" at the National Gallery of Art
“The Land Carries Our Ancestors” at the National Gallery of Art
"The Land Carries Our Ancestors" at the National Gallery of Art
“The Land Carries Our Ancestors” at the National Gallery of Art
"The Land Carries Our Ancestors" at the National Gallery of Art
“The Land Carries Our Ancestors” at the National Gallery of Art
"The Land Carries Our Ancestors" at the National Gallery of Art
“The Land Carries Our Ancestors” at the National Gallery of Art
"The Land Carries Our Ancestors" at the National Gallery of Art
“The Land Carries Our Ancestors” at the National Gallery of Art
"The Land Carries Our Ancestors" at the National Gallery of Art
“The Land Carries Our Ancestors” at the National Gallery of Art
"The Land Carries Our Ancestors" at the National Gallery of Art
“The Land Carries Our Ancestors” at the National Gallery of Art
"The Land Carries Our Ancestors" at the National Gallery of Art
“The Land Carries Our Ancestors” at the National Gallery of Art
"The Land Carries Our Ancestors" at the National Gallery of Art
“The Land Carries Our Ancestors” at the National Gallery of Art
"The Land Carries Our Ancestors" at the National Gallery of Art
“The Land Carries Our Ancestors” at the National Gallery of Art

We also went to the Smithsonian American Art Museum (SAAM) to see “Many Wests: Artists Shape an American Idea.” All of this was a throwback to our October trip to Texas and New Mexico, bringing back happy memories of all we experienced out west.

"Many Wests: Artists Shape an American Idea" at SAAM
“Many Wests: Artists Shape an American Idea” at SAAM
"Many Wests: Artists Shape an American Idea" at SAAM
“Many Wests: Artists Shape an American Idea” at SAAM
"Many Wests: Artists Shape an American Idea" at SAAM
“Many Wests: Artists Shape an American Idea” at SAAM
"Many Wests: Artists Shape an American Idea" at SAAM
“Many Wests: Artists Shape an American Idea” at SAAM
"Many Wests: Artists Shape an American Idea" at SAAM
“Many Wests: Artists Shape an American Idea” at SAAM
"Many Wests: Artists Shape an American Idea" at SAAM
“Many Wests: Artists Shape an American Idea” at SAAM
"Many Wests: Artists Shape an American Idea" at SAAM
“Many Wests: Artists Shape an American Idea” at SAAM
"Many Wests: Artists Shape an American Idea" at SAAM
“Many Wests: Artists Shape an American Idea” at SAAM
"Many Wests: Artists Shape an American Idea" at SAAM
“Many Wests: Artists Shape an American Idea” at SAAM
"Many Wests: Artists Shape an American Idea" at SAAM
“Many Wests: Artists Shape an American Idea” at SAAM
"Many Wests: Artists Shape an American Idea" at SAAM
“Many Wests: Artists Shape an American Idea” at SAAM
"Many Wests: Artists Shape an American Idea" at SAAM
“Many Wests: Artists Shape an American Idea” at SAAM
me in the courtyard at SAAM
me in the courtyard at SAAM
Mike at SAAM
Mike at SAAM

By the way, did you know that almost all the museums in Washington are free? All of the Smithsonian museums and the National Art Gallery are included. Sometimes they will charge for a special exhibit, most mostly they are free. You don’t find that in many cities.

After our museum day, we had dinner at one of Chef José Andrés’ restaurants, Oyamel Cocina Mexicana. The food is always delicious (but pricey), and the atmosphere is fabulous. I have no problem spending money in these restaurants due to Chef Andrés’ involvment with World Central Kitchen, an organization that helps bring food to disaster areas and war zones.

Mike at Oyamel
Mike at Oyamel
dinner at Oyamel
dinner at Oyamel
Oyamel
Oyamel

We got good news that Alex got a permanent job in Atlanta; he had been working at the company as a temp and his contract ended in January. He begins the new job in on February 5.  Alex and Jandira are also moving to an apartment in April that is closer to where they both work in Atlanta. Little Allie is doing great, growing like crazy and wanting badly to sit up and even stand. She will be 4 months old on February 5.

Since we’ve had a lot of miserable weather, we’ve been to several movies this month: The Boys in the Boat, Maestro, Driving Madeleine, and The Holdovers. We enjoyed them all, especially The Boys in the Boat since I’ve been rowing (in a studio on an erg). Also, we enjoyed the limited T.V. series, Lessons in Chemistry, in which the main character Elizabeth Zott also rows, especially to take out her anger over being excluded from the male-dominated scientific community during the 1950s.

We ate out at Artie’s, one of our favorite restaurants, where we like to sit at the bar and chat with Remy, the long-time bartender there. I enjoyed Bibimbap at Maru with Mike, and we had steaming bowls of Ramen with our friends Karen and Michael at Jinya Ramen Bar. The soup hit the spot as the temperature outdoors was about 19°F. Brrr. We also discovered Mazadar Restaurant, about 10 minutes from our house. It features food from seven countries, including Turkey, Greece, Afghanistan, Azerbaijan and Turkmenistan. I can’t believe we have never encountered this delicious restaurant in all the years we’ve lived here.

Artie's
Artie’s
Mike and me at Artie's
Mike and me at Artie’s
Artie's
Artie’s
Oyster salad at Artie's
Oyster salad at Artie’s
Tex-Mex eggrolls at Artie's
Tex-Mex eggrolls at Artie’s
me at Maru
me at Maru
Mike at Maru
Mike at Maru
bibimbap at Maru
bibimbap at Maru
Karen & Michael at Jinya Ramen Bar
Karen & Michael at Jinya Ramen Bar
Ramen at Jinya Ramen Bar
Ramen at Jinya Ramen Bar
Mike and me at Jinya Ramen Bar
Mike and me at Jinya Ramen Bar
all of us at Jinya Ramen Bar
all of us at Jinya Ramen Bar
me at Mazadar
me at Mazadar
appetizer meatballs at Mazadar
appetizer meatballs at Mazadar
img_4766
Mike at Mazadar
Mike at Mazadar
lamb shank at Mazadar
lamb shank at Mazadar
Mike finishing up his lamb shank
Mike finishing up his lamb shank

We took several hikes in the snow, in below-freezing weather, mainly just to get out of the house. We never had any snow to speak of last year, so it was our one opportunity to get out in it since we have no idea if we’ll get any more this year.

First snow January 15
First snow January 15
First snow January 15
First snow January 15
First snow January 15
First snow January 15
First snow January 15
First snow January 15
Second snow January 19
Second snow January 19
Second snow January 19
Second snow January 19
Second snow January 19
Second snow January 19
Second snow January 19
Second snow January 19
Second snow January 19
Second snow January 19
Second snow January 21
Second snow January 21
Second snow January 21
Second snow January 21
Second snow January 21
Second snow January 21
Second snow January 21
Second snow January 21
Second snow January 21
Second snow January 21
Second snow January 21
Second snow January 21
Second snow January 21
Second snow January 21
Second snow January 21
Second snow January 21
Second snow January 21
Second snow January 21
Second snow January 21
Second snow January 21
Second snow January 21
Second snow January 21
Second snow January 21
Second snow January 21
Second snow January 21
Second snow January 21
January 27 Lake Anne (All the snow has melted)
January 27 Lake Anne (All the snow has melted)

We’ve booked our flights to visit El Salvador, Nicaragua and Colombia in March. I look forward to visiting my friend Mario in El Salvador, Adam and his new family in Nicaragua, and doing the tourist thing in Colombia.

Other than that, I’ve been super busy trying to scan all of our family photos and share them in Google Photo albums with my adult children. I’m then dividing the photos between the three of them and getting them out of our house. It’s time to start decluttering so when Mike finally retires, we will be able to move somewhere smaller in short order.

I read 4 books this month, out of my goal of 52 books this year, my favorites being At the End of the Matinee by Keiichiro Hirano and My Brilliant Friend by Elena Ferrante.

I hope you’ll share how you’ve launched your new year, and what plans you have for 2024. 🙂

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  • Campagnano di Roma
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via francigena: viterbo -> vetralla -> capranica -> monterosi -> campagnano di roma

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 January 31, 2024
Viterbo to Vetralla (walked)

Saturday, July 22, 2023: On Saturday, July 22, we left Viterbo at 5:00 am. Of course there were no signs to lead us out of the town, so we relied totally on Darina’s app.

We made our way in the dark through the steep walls of the Via Cava Sant’Antonio. Scholars have debated about the origins of the mysterious Etruscan Vie Cave (“excavated roads”) in this region for centuries. Narrow roadways cut into the soft Tufa stone over 2,500 years ago, they usually led from Etruscan settlements to nearby necropoli, large elaborate cemeteries of ancient cities. Scholars suggest they were either cut through hillsides as part of an unknown funereal observance or because the iron-clad wheels of wagons made deep depressions in the soft tufa, necessitating the ongoing flattening of the roads. The Via Cave of Sant’Antonio run to 12m deep but in other locations they can run twice as deep.

It will still dark and quite humid when we walked through this road, so it felt a bit creepy.

leaving Viterbo
leaving Viterbo
leaving Viterbo in the dark
leaving Viterbo in the dark
Via Cava Sant’Antonio
Via Cava Sant’Antonio
Via Cava Sant’Antonio
Via Cava Sant’Antonio
Via Cava Sant’Antonio
Via Cava Sant’Antonio
Via Cava Sant’Antonio
Via Cava Sant’Antonio

After a long while we emerged from the Via Cave and climbed endlessly among olive orchards on a terribly rutted road of black sand. It was a terrible path and I was miserable, sweating profusely, and I vowed to never walk another step on this horrible Via Francigena.

the path to Vetralla
the path to Vetralla
the path to Vetralla
the path to Vetralla
the horrible walk through the olive orchards
the horrible walk through the olive orchards
I trudge miserably along through the olive orchard
I trudge miserably along through the olive orchard

We found a viewpoint at the top of the long climb. The vast seaside Maremma plain of flat farmland spread to the base of low mountains on the horizon. We walked on asphalt, then rutted trails through forests, olive groves and sheep pastures, then more long stretches of asphalt in hot sun, zigzagging back and forth. We saw Vetralla to our left and our app said it was one hour but it looked much further than that. We ended up on pavement at Ponte Pontarello on the asphalt Strada Risere. We got on a grassy path that helped us avoid some dangerous curves as we approached the town.

Maremma plain
Maremma plain
Maremma plain
Maremma plain
Maremma plain
Maremma plain
Maremma plain
Maremma plain
Maremma plain
Maremma plain
a pilgrim rest stop "Barbara"
a pilgrim rest stop “Barbara”

Of course, we finally climbed uphill to Vetralla, perched on towering Monte Fogliano. We continued uphill to find first the main piazza. We sat at a bar waiting for quite a long time until we could check in at La Casa dei Fiori. Finally we checked into the large apartment with two tiny twin beds stuck next to each other. It had a nice kitchen with breakfast foods, a cappuccino machine, a laundry line and a huge bathroom with a bathtub (but no hot water). I missed my baths so much and was so tired of tiny cramped shower stalls, so I was happy to have a long soak in a cool bath. The place was very pilgrim friendly and the host knew of Valentina of Bags-Free; he had a very outdated price list. Soon after we checked in, my bag that I’d sent ahead was delivered, by 11:30!

Welcome to Vetralla
Welcome to Vetralla
mural in Vetralla
mural in Vetralla
Darina and me entering Vetralla
Darina and me entering Vetralla
La Casa dei Fiori
La Casa dei Fiori
outdated info on Bags-Free
outdated info on Bags-Free
an outdated price list for Bags-Free
an outdated price list for Bags-Free
La Casa dei Fiori
La Casa dei Fiori
La Casa dei Fiori
La Casa dei Fiori

We did our laundry and relaxed in the apartment until about 3:00, when we went out into the steamy and utterly deserted town. Vetralla (population ~14,000) is the town where Pope Eugenius III, after his election in 1145, reigned for a time when the chaos in Rome had grown to such an extent that he was unable to stay in the city. From here, in that same year, he announced the Second Crusade. Vetralla had been part of the Papal Territories since the 8th-century, except for a brief period when it was ruled by Viterbo. Though well-preserved, today’s sleepy town is divided between a few businesses scattered along the Via Roma in the Upper City, and others along the busy Via Cassia highway a few meters below.

We tried to find an open bar for lunch, but nothing was open, only the small bar we’d waited in earlier. There we found our French friend Pasquale and while we ate something while he entertained us with stories about how people hook up on the Camino de Santiago and he walks to “think think think” because otherwise his girlfriend is always talking in his ear and driving him crazy.

Darina and a pilgrim sign
Darina and a pilgrim sign
me, Darina and Pasquale in Vetralla
me, Darina and Pasquale in Vetralla

We stopped in at the 12th-century Church of San Francesco, the town’s most important architectural monument. Vividly decorated capitals adorn the nave and crypt, along with inlaid geometric floor tiles. The Duomo and the Commune building are both 17th- & 18th-century creations, squeezed across from each other in a small piazza.

Church of San Francesco
Church of San Francesco
Church of San Francesco
Church of San Francesco
Church of San Francesco
Church of San Francesco
Church of San Francesco
Church of San Francesco
Church of San Francesco
Church of San Francesco
Church of San Francesco
Church of San Francesco
Church of San Francesco
Church of San Francesco
Vetralla street
Vetralla street
Commune building in Vetralla
Commune building in Vetralla

Darina went to Saturday night mass at 5:30 and I returned to the warm apartment and took another cold bath and relaxed a bit. At 7:30, we went to dinner at the breezy and pleasant Pinseria. We had delicious prosciutto and burrata bruschetta drizzled in olive oil, small beers, and pizzas with salami, mozzarella, thinly sliced zucchini, yellow cherry tomatoes and black olives. Another pleasant dining experience in Italy. 🍕🍕🍕

prosciutto and burrata bruschetta at Pinseria
prosciutto and burrata bruschetta at Pinseria
Darina and me at Pinseria
Darina and me at Pinseria
me with Darina at Pinseria
me with Darina at Pinseria
Darina at Pinseria
Darina at Pinseria
me at Pinseria
me at Pinseria

Steps: 31,532 steps; Miles: 13.38. Day 11 Stage Walk: 11.36 miles, or 18.28 km.

Weather (Vetralla): High 94°, Low 67°. Sunny.

Vetralla to Capranica (by bus)

Sunday, July 23: This morning I took the 8:35 bus from Vetralla to Capranica. Before leaving, I saw Pasquale in the bar playing with his phone in the same spot where we’d seen him last night. I arrived early at the bus stop because I didn’t want to miss one of the few buses to Capranica that run on Sundays. Darina started walking by herself at 5 a.m. Again the temps for the day were to be 95 and the government issued an orange warning for extreme heat. By this time, I had decided to become what Darina read about in one of the forums, a “PTP,” or “Public Transportation Pilgrim.” Between dealing with the inconsistently dependable Bags-Free (the service that transports bags along the Via Francigena) and the hot and humid weather, it was no longer enjoyable for me to continue this walk. I would consider walking into Rome but maybe not; it would depend on the weather and what I read about Friday’s final stage to the Vatican. It was also possible I’d walk from Campagnano di Roma to Formello as it would be a short stage and the temperatures were forecast to drop slightly by then.

Either way, I wrote to Valentina of Bags-Free and told her I was going to cancel all my bag transports for the remainder of the trip. If I were going to take the bus at less than 2€/day, it would be a lot cheaper than transporting my bag at 30€ each day. Bags-Free would have to deliver my suitcase to the Beehive Hostel in Rome on that final day anyway; they had been holding it in Rome since I left Lucca .

When I got off the bus at 9:00, Darina was still an hour away enjoying her “shady” hike. To me it made no difference if it were shady as often the forests had difficult rutted and rocky paths, trapped the humidity, and were rife with flies and mosquitoes. Darina didn’t seem to be bothered by any of this, but I disliked it horribly.

I was perfectly happy to sleep in a bit and to enjoy freshly squeezed orange juice and a muffin at the Tapioka Bar in Capranica while I waited for Darina.

fullsizeoutput_2aff7

Tapoka Bar in Capranica

Darina arrived at 10:00 and we had to wait until 11:00 to check into our apartment, Casa Zi’Pepe. It was a nice big apartment with two bedrooms and lots of pilgrim amenities. In my room I had a fan and a small portable air conditioner into which I placed small blocks of Freon from the freezer. It was mostly comfortable until late afternoon. It also had a nice bathtub, a real bonus.

We each showered/bathed and did laundry. I was sweaty despite not even walking. Darina had walked so she napped for much of the afternoon. We finally went out at 3:00 when of course everything was closed and it was hot as hell. It was rather boring and I kept dreaming of escaping directly to Rome where I could settle in and not have to move every day and there would be something to do. At the same time I’m trying to honor my commitment to Darina and move along with her through the stages instead of deserting her completely.

Capranica (population ~6,000), a village on a tufa hill, was settled by goatherds who fled Lombard invaders in the 8th-century. Named Capranica after “capra” (“goat” in Italian), the resulting town’s Castovecchio neighborhood is a charming step back in time, with its narrow streets and medieval architecture.

This town had notables pass through its gates: Charlemagne passed through in 800, the poet Petrarch in 1335 and Giuseppe Mazzini, the Italian patriot, about 500 years after that.

Although we wandered around the town, we only found one church open, the Church of San Giovanni, which was all draped in red silk around the altar. We didn’t much care for it. It retains a dome from the 16th-century and a bell tower from the 1200s. The other churches were closed, and we especially regretted not being able to go inside the oldest building, the 9th-century Church of San Pietro with its 14th century frescoes of San Sebastian, or the 13th- to 16th-century Church of San Francesco, which is adorned with 15th-century frescoes in the Renaissance style.

Capranica
Capranica
Capranica
Capranica
Capranica
Capranica
Pilgrim Darina in Capranica
Pilgrim Darina in Capranica
Capranica
Capranica
Church of San Giovanni
Church of San Giovanni
Church of San Giovanni
Church of San Giovanni
Church of San Giovanni
Church of San Giovanni
Capranica
Capranica
Capranica
Capranica
Capranica
Capranica

We returned to the apartment to rest because it was too hot and everything was closed.

We went out to dinner at Trattoria “da Ciucci,” but they told us they didn’t open until 8:00. While waiting, we wandered around following an Alice in Wonderland-themed path called “Sogni di Luce,” or “Dreams of Lights.” It was whimsical and fun.

Sogni di Luce
Sogni di Luce
Sogni di Luce
Sogni di Luce
Sogni di Luce
Sogni di Luce
Sogni di Luce
Sogni di Luce
Sogni di Luce
Sogni di Luce
Sogni di Luce
Sogni di Luce
Sogni di Luce
Sogni di Luce
Sogni di Luce
Sogni di Luce
Sogni di Luce
Sogni di Luce
Sogni di Luce
Sogni di Luce
Sogni di Luce
Sogni di Luce
Sogni di Luce
Sogni di Luce
Sogni di Luce
Sogni di Luce
Darina at Sogni di Luce
Darina at Sogni di Luce
Sogni di Luce
Sogni di Luce
Sogni di Luce
Sogni di Luce
Sogni di Luce
Sogni di Luce
Darina at Sogni di Luce
Darina at Sogni di Luce
me at Sogni di Luce
me at Sogni di Luce
me at Sogni di Luce
me at Sogni di Luce
Darina at Sogni di Luce
Darina at Sogni di Luce

We went to the trattoria, where the waiter seemed rather lackadaisical, pointing out half the menu items that were unavailable. I had a delicious and refreshing bruschetta with tomatoes and olive oil while Darina had a meat and cheese platter with salami, prosciutto and other varieties. We cheered one another with white wine.

me at Trattoria “da Ciucci”
me at Trattoria “da Ciucci”
Darina at Trattoria “da Ciucci”
Darina at Trattoria “da Ciucci”
bruschetta at Trattoria “da Ciucci”
bruschetta at Trattoria “da Ciucci”

Steps: 9,137; Miles: 3.87. No Stage Walk today for me. I took the bus while Darina walked.

Weather (Capranica): High 95°, Low 66°. Sunny. Orange Warning for Extreme High Temperature.

Capranica to Monterosi (by bus)

Monday: July 24: Monday morning, I lounged around in the apartment until 9:00, taking a leisurely bath, reading about the final stages of our walk and working on Polarsteps. I left the Capranica apartment, Casa Zi’Pepe, and took the 9:30 bus to Monterosi, arriving at 10:00. Darina was walking the long stage and left at 5:10. Her app said she’d arrive at 11:45, but we couldn’t check in to the studio apartment La Campana until 1:00.

I stopped at Chiesa Santa Croce, built in the 18th century. Inside were the relics of the town’s patron saints, Vincent & Anastasius. The main altar’s crucifix was by Pozzi. Sadly the Chapel of San Giuseppe was permanently closed.

An information board at the church said that between the end of the first millennium and the beginning of the second, the widespread practice of going on pilgrimage took on a strategic importance. Rome was among Christianity’s holy places and the Francigena Way was the central junction of the principal roads of pilgrimage. Pilgrims coming from the north traveled along the Francigena Way to reach Rome.

I also went by the Pilgrim Office to kill time while waiting for Darina and to get my passport stamped.

Chiesa Santa Croce
Chiesa Santa Croce
Chiesa Santa Croce
Chiesa Santa Croce
the way to the Pilgrim Office
the way to the Pilgrim Office
statue near the Pilgrim Office
statue near the Pilgrim Office

Monterosi, with its small population of around 4,600, has a long history of prosperity alternating with decline. Its position on the Via Cassia made it prosperous but put it in the path of invaders like the Goths and Lombards who were aiming at the riches of Rome. For such a small town, it has a good share of history. In 1155, Pope Hadrian IV met Federico Barbarossa to crown him Holy Roman Emperor. In 1649, Pope Innocent’s emissary, Monsignor Giarda, was assassinated on his way to make peace with the Duchy of Castro, which the pontiff would later destroy. In 1798, the Neopolitan Army was defeated here by the French during the Battle of Civita Castellana in the 2nd Coalition War. Finally, the Nazis mined the approaches to Monterosi before Allied troops cleared the town in June of 1944.

Sadly the unusual Renaissance-era Chapel of San Giuseppe with its dome standing atop its squared Greek-cross nave, was permanently shuttered.

Chapel of San Giuseppe
Chapel of San Giuseppe
Chapel of San Giuseppe
Chapel of San Giuseppe

I met Darina at the local bar where I’d settled in for the long haul. There was some commotion outside the bar and a woman had ice on her hand and was being put into an ambulance. I heard two Americans talking at the front of the bar. We met the hilarious Laura and her husband Mike from Towson, Maryland. Like me, Laura hated the heat, and had actually suffered heat exhaustion and fainted on the long and tough stage from Buonconvento to San Quirico d’Orcia, on the 14 km stretch before Torrenieri (via francigena: buonconvento to san quirico d’orcia to gallina). It had been a miserable stretch for Darina and me, and was the longest stage of our entire walk at 23.75km, or almost 15 miles. Laura said they’d had to call the emergency number in Italy, #112, and drop a pin on their location. The EMTs found them out in the middle of nowhere and put her in an ambulance while giving her an IV. She said it had been frightening. This had been one of my biggest fears, passing out from the heat and being in the middle of nowhere. Most of their walk had been supported, with all accommodations arranged and bags sent ahead. They said they loved Bolsena so much they spent four lovely days there. They had been walking since Siena and would arrive in Rome on Thursday, flying soon after to Philadelphia.

img_6430

me, Laura, Mike and Darina

After meeting Laura and Mike and taking a selfie together, we checked into our small street-level apartment which, though small wasn’t too cramped and had everything a pilgrim could ever need. Because it was on street level and didn’t have many windows it was actually one of our cooler apartments.

img_6433

our apartment, La Campana

We relaxed during the afternoon after having a quick sandwich at the bar, and then at 4:00 we went out to buy breakfast provisions and to get some cash. I wanted a bus ticket for the next morning, but the guy at the tabaccheria said he was all out until the next day at 7am. What? The transport systems in Italy make no sense at all. It’s all been so frustrating dealing with them.

We strolled around the tiny town and found the town hall covered in crocheted squares, making it colorful and whimsical.

crochet squares at Town Hall
crochet squares at Town Hall
crochet squares at Town Hall
crochet squares at Town Hall
Town Hall
Town Hall
crochet squares at Town Hall
crochet squares at Town Hall
crochet squares at Town Hall
crochet squares at Town Hall

We had dinner at the lovely Gorgeous, right down the street from our apartment. We both ordered the same dish: Lungarello Gorgeous su fonduta di pecorino, uovo cotto a basa temperatura e scaglie di Tartufo. Basically pasta with an eggs cooked at low temperature and a cheese sauce with thinly sliced truffles. It was delizioso! It was a lovely atmosphere with mellow music 🎶, air conditioning and friendly servers. I had 2 glasses of wine and Darina had two artisanal beers.

Our nighttime meals have definitely been the highlight of our journey!

Darina at Gorgeous
Darina at Gorgeous
me at Gorgeous
me at Gorgeous
Lungarello Gorgeous su fonduta di pecorino, uovo cotto a basa temperatura e scaglie di Tartufo
Lungarello Gorgeous su fonduta di pecorino, uovo cotto a basa temperatura e scaglie di Tartufo
Gorgeous
Gorgeous

Steps: 7,809; Miles: 3.31. No Stage Walk today for me. I took the bus while Darina walked.

Weather (Monterosi): High 95°, Low 75°. Sunny. Orange Warning for Extreme High Temperature.

Monterosi to Campagnano di Roma (by bus)

Tuesday, July 25: Tuesday morning, once again I took the 8:25 bus from Monterosi to Campagnano di Roma. I had asked everyone in Monterosi the bus timetable, but no one knew it. Even though Google maps had said there was an 8:25 bus, it hadn’t always been reliable. So I got to the bus stop early and asked five consecutive bus drivers if they were going to Campagnano di Roma. Each indicated with a circular motion that it would be another later bus but none knew the timetable. Finally the 8:25 bus came and it was the right one, so Google was right all along! All my worrying did no good at all.

I had once again decided on public transport because it was forecast to be 97 degrees with an orange warning for extreme heat.

Campagnano di Roma has a population of 11,586 but most people must live in the modern part of town, just outside the Porta Romana, because the old quarter was practically deserted.

The town, originally called Baccano for a temple to Bacchus located on its summit, was taken from the Etruscans by Rome in 241 BC.  Sigeric identified this as “Stage III Bacane.”  By the 13th-century, wealthy Romans were seeking refuge in the rural area here (campagna=“countryside”) to avoid intermittent plagues. The town name was changed from its former pagan title.

Campagnano reached its prominence in the 15th-18th centuries when the powerful Roman Orsini family maintained a castle here. Some houses from the 11th and 12th-centuries remain, while the 11th-century Church of the Pietà, which houses an important fresco, is the oldest public building.

In Campagnano di Roma, I walked to the furthest hinterlands of the town to Hostel Gheltrude, the tiniest house imaginable. It was too early for the 10 a.m. check-in but Monica had left the door open, so I dropped my pack in the house and went to the main square, Piazza Leonelli. There sat the unusual 15th-century Gonfalone Church, which has a central tower topped by a wrought iron balustrade. In the center of the square, between the church and the red 19th century town hall, sat the late Renaissance Fontana Delfini.

Campagno di Roma
Campagno di Roma
Campagno di Roma
Campagno di Roma
Campagno di Roma
Campagno di Roma
Collegiate Church of San Giovanni Battista
Collegiate Church of San Giovanni Battista
Collegiate Church of San Giovanni Battista
Collegiate Church of San Giovanni Battista
Fontana Delfini in the Piazza Leonelli
Fontana Delfini in the Piazza Leonelli
19th century town hall
19th century town hall
Gonfalone Church
Gonfalone Church
Gonfalone Church
Gonfalone Church
Gonfalone Church
Gonfalone Church
Gonfalone Church
Gonfalone Church
Gonfalone Church
Gonfalone Church

Darina arrived to the house after walking nearly 15km by around 10:00, but I was already sitting at the seedy Bar Scalini having a cappuccino and pear juice and writing in my journal. After Darina showered at our shoebox house, she met me at the bar. She had come into town at the far end, near the house, so we walked out the way I’d come in, out the Porta Romana to the Parco Pubblico where we sat at a bar and had panini (shrimp salad for me). Then we walked back to the far end of town.

Porta Romana
Porta Romana
Porta Romana
Porta Romana

Hostel Gheltrude was the tiniest place ever yet it had everything a pilgrim needed crammed into the small space. It had bunk beds (thank goodness Darina took the top), a tiny table and 2 chairs, a stove, sink and refrigerator and a shelf full of kitchen staples in case we wanted to cook in. Pots and pans hung on the wall and the bathroom was the normal Italian style with a tiny shower stall but of course no bidet. It had an outdoor garden area where we could sit if we wanted to get eaten alive by mosquitoes, as well as a laundry tub and clothes line. Luckily it had mosquito netting over the door. Monica had even provided two fans. Darina was tired and wanted to nap and the little box house heated up quickly like an Easy Bake Oven.

It was a miserable afternoon because the rest of the town was too far away to go sit at a bar and of course the churches were closed and there was nothing to do but sit and swelter. It was the longest and most boring afternoon ever.

Hostel Gheltrude
Hostel Gheltrude
Hostel Gheltrude
Hostel Gheltrude
Hostel Gheltrude
Hostel Gheltrude
Hostel Gheltrude
Hostel Gheltrude

We walked past the impressive Collegiate Church of San Giovanni Battista on our way to town and back, but it was never open. It has a Baroque bell tower completed in 1602. Apparently the ceiling in part of the church is coffered with the figure of John the Baptist in the center.

view from Campagno di Roma
view from Campagno di Roma
Collegiate Church of San Giovanni Battista
Collegiate Church of San Giovanni Battista

We finally escaped the house at 7:00 to go to dinner in the new town at Ristorante Hotel Benigni, which Monica had recommended. We were basically ignored for the first half hour we were there. Finally we got our drinks, wine for me and beer for Darina. I had Tonnarelli Cacio e Pepe e Carciofi croccanti (fried zucchini flowers) con Pecorino Romano. I was excited to finally try the fried zucchini flowers but there weren’t many of them in the pasta. Darina had gnocchi with pistachio, cherry tomatoes, basil and black pepper.

me at Ristorante Hotel Benigni
me at Ristorante Hotel Benigni
Darina at Ristorante Hotel Benigni
Darina at Ristorante Hotel Benigni
Tonnarelli Cacio e Pepe e Carciofi croccanti (fried zucchini flowers) con Pecorino Romano
Tonnarelli Cacio e Pepe e Carciofi croccanti (fried zucchini flowers) con Pecorino Romano
gnocchi with pistachio, cherry tomatoes, basil and black pepper
gnocchi with pistachio, cherry tomatoes, basil and black pepper

Steps: 9,938; Miles: 4.21. No Stage Walk today for me. I took the bus while Darina walked.

Weather (Campagnano di Roma): High 97°, Low 67°. Sunny. Orange Warning for Extreme High Temperature.

The Via Francigena is an ancient road and pilgrimage route that runs from Canterbury, England, through France and Switzerland, to Rome and then to Apulia, Italy, where there were ports of embarkation for the Holy Land. In around 990, Archbishop Sigeric journeyed from Canterbury to Rome and back, but only documented his itinerary on the return journey, taken in 80 stages averaging about 12 miles (20 km) a day, for a total of some 1,100 miles (1,700 km).

This is the continuing saga of our attempt to walk the stages from Lucca to Rome, which are, in total, about 255.07 miles (410.5 km). Since we had to cut out stages due to time constraints, our actual goal was to walk 211.77 miles ( 340.8 km).

Running tally: (Day 11): 110.76 /211.77 miles (178.23/340.8 km).

This post is in response to Jo’s Monday Walk: Santa Catarina circular (a salutary tale).

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via francigena: bolsena -> montefiascone -> viterbo

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 January 24, 2024
Bolsena to Montefiascone (by bus)

Thursday, July 20, 2023: On Thursday morning, we slept in till 7 a.m. and ate breakfast at the Agriturismo at 8:00. Then we walked down the long & winding road to the charming lakeside town of Bolsena. It was a lot easier going down in the morning than going up in yesterday’s afternoon heat. Darina promptly went to the pharmacy in Bolsena and got her prescriptions filled.

They finally filled up the pool at the Agriturismo!
They finally filled up the pool at the Agriturismo!
Darina's neck
Darina’s neck
view of Bolsena as we walk down from the Agriturismo
view of Bolsena as we walk down from the Agriturismo

I was sending my pack ahead as part of an arrangement I had made with Bags-Free to transport my bag ALL REMAINING STAGES from Acquapendente to Rome (except two stages – from Vetralla to Capranica and then onward to Monterosi – because Bags-Free didn’t have an arrangement with any hotel in Capranica). We still walked a lot today even though we didn’t walk the stage, so I was glad I’d transported my bag. That was, UNTIL we arrived in Montefiascone.

In 1156 Pope Adrian IV ordered Bolsena to be fortified and built a castle and walls around the town. In 1295 the Monaldeschi House of Orvieto overcame the city and improved the castle, now called La Rocca Monaldeschi della Cervara. Razed and reinforced over many centuries, it now houses the municipal museum.

La Rocca Monaldeschi della Cervara
La Rocca Monaldeschi della Cervara
Bolsena
Bolsena
Bolsena
Bolsena
La Rocca Monaldeschi della Cervara
La Rocca Monaldeschi della Cervara

We checked out the bus stop location and then went to visit the Basilica of Santa Cristina. Sigeric listed Bolsena and this church as his Stage VIII, but the church’s most famous event took place nearly 300 years later. In 1263, when a priest who doubted the concept of Transubstantiation was consecrating the host, the bread 🥖 he was blessing suddenly began to drip blood onto his hands and the cloth below. In response, the following year Pope Urban IV created the Feast of Corpus Christi, now celebrated in Catholic Churches throughout the world. This miracle as well as the relics of  3rd-century martyr Saint Cristina, housed in the church for many centuries, have made Bolsena an important pilgrimage destination.

We paused to study the altar, a fine 8th-century piece, upon which, according to tradition, the Eucharistic miracle took place. The main altarpiece depicts the miracle, painted by Francesco Trevisani. Below the painting, on the altar, a 1940 gilded frame was created to hold the blood-stained stone that is supposedly a relic of the miracle. The Eucharist itself is on display in Orvieto Cathedral.

Basilica of Santa Cristina
Basilica of Santa Cristina
Basilica of Santa Cristina
Basilica of Santa Cristina
Basilica of Santa Cristina
Basilica of Santa Cristina
Basilica of Santa Cristina
Basilica of Santa Cristina
Basilica of Santa Cristina
Basilica of Santa Cristina
the altar where the Eucharistic miracle took place
the altar where the Eucharistic miracle took place

We also visited the Catacombs of Saint Christina. This was the early Christian cemetery of Bolsena, used from the end of the 3rd century to the beginning of the 5th century. The tomb of Saint Cristina, discovered in 1880, is here surrounded by a white balustrade. A large sarcophagus made from local stone holds a white marble funeral urn from the Roman period. It says: “Here Reposes the Body of the Blessed Martyr Christina.”

During the 3rd century, Saint Christina was a 11-year-old martyr who came to believe in Christ but was warned she would suffer for her faith. Christina was the daughter of a powerful magistrate, believed to be named Urbain, who wanted his daughter to be a pagan priestess. He locked her in a room full of gold and silver idols and ordered her to burn incense before them. When she felt a blaze of love in her heart for Christ and learned the Gospel, she threw all the idols out and refused to speak to her father, who then killed her servants, beat her and threw her in prison. To torture her, she was tied to an iron wheel and raked over an extreme fire. She was burned, but healed with the help of an angel. Her father tied a stone around her neck to drown her, but an angel sustained her and untied her from the rope. When she reappeared above water, her father decided she survived due to sorcery, so he vowed to execute her the next day, but he died overnight. She survived every torture carried out by the region’s governor in her father’s name. Finally another governor put her in a hot furnace for five days. When she survived that, she was finally executed by sword (from Catholic Online: Saint Christina).

Her remains were relocated and buried in this catacomb so she could repose with her fellow Christians.

We went down a double staircase into the catacombs area, unearthed in the 19th century, which was refreshingly cool but also creepy. It follows a “Christmas Tree” 🌲 layout, whereby the lateral branches, stemming from the main gallery, become smaller as they move away from the entrance. The catacombs were solely used as a cemetery for the Christian community and were never used as a refuge or hiding place during the time of persecution. In fact, the catacombs were known to everyone and were protected by Roman legislation.

At burial the body was wrapped in a linen sheet, placed in a niche in the wall or lair in the ground and then covered with quicklime. The oldest burials are those on the highest level. As needs demanded, the shaft was deepened. Next to many of the burial niches, there were often shelves and small recesses used to place oil lamps and vessels containing balsam.

tomb of Saint Cristina
tomb of Saint Cristina
Catacombs of Saint Christina
Catacombs of Saint Christina
Darina locked into the Catacombs entry
Darina locked into the Catacombs entry

After visiting the church, we walked down to the lake, wandered around the marina, and sat at Bar Porto, where I had a lemon soda and we wrote in our journals while waiting for the 12:30 bus to Montefiascone.

the walk down to Lake Bolsena
the walk down to Lake Bolsena
the walk down to Lake Bolsena
the walk down to Lake Bolsena
the walk down to Lake Bolsena
the walk down to Lake Bolsena
the walk down to Lake Bolsena
the walk down to Lake Bolsena
marina at Lake Bolsena
marina at Lake Bolsena
marina at Lake Bolsena
marina at Lake Bolsena
marina at Lake Bolsena
marina at Lake Bolsena
marina at Lake Bolsena
marina at Lake Bolsena
Lake Bolsena
Lake Bolsena
Lake Bolsena
Lake Bolsena
walking back up into town
walking back up into town
Bolsena
Bolsena

Arriving by bus from Bolsena, we arrived at Hotel Italia & Lombardi after 1:00. Of course my backpack, which I had arranged to have transported by Bags-Free for 30 euros, hadn’t arrived. The hotel receptionist called Riserva Montebello to find the bag was still sitting there at the Agriturismo. She then called Bags-Free and found there was some problem in the stage and the bag wouldn’t be delivered until around 5:00!! Valentina of Bags-Free sent me an email to say the driver of the stage had had a car accident and it wouldn’t be delivered until 5:30 or 6:00!

This put me over the edge. At this point I wrote to Mike and told him to look into changing my plane ticket. I could go straight to Rome and fly home. I was sick of dealing with this relentless heat and with the unreliable Bags-Free, especially for the amount of money I was paying them. I really felt I had to figure out some solution to this predicament I’d gotten myself into, but I hated the idea of abandoning Darina altogether.

Darina and I went to a shady cafe nearby where we had quite a heavy dish of pasta with sausage. We returned to the sweltering room where Darina fell asleep. I couldn’t sleep so I went down to the hotel bar and ordered a Hugo. I figured I would just drink myself into oblivion. Of course I hadn’t been able to shower because I didn’t have a change of clothes, so I just stewed in my own sweat. Finally at 5:00, Bags-Free brought my pack to the door of the bar. At long last, I was able to shower and do laundry.

Montefiascone
Montefiascone
pasta with sausage
pasta with sausage
Darina at lunch
Darina at lunch
me at lunch
me at lunch

Montefiascone was first mentioned in 853, though the Etruscan roots of the town suggest it is at least a millennium older. Its commanding position on the Via Francigena and proximity to Rome made it an important stronghold for the papacy. It was besieged in 1093 by Emperor Henry IV. In the 13th- and 14th-centuries, it reached its zenith as a residence for popes and Papal legates. From the 15th century onward it began unraveling; its decline was accelerated by the plague of 1657 and the earthquake of 1697. The town was also damaged in two Allied bombings in May 1944.

Darina and I walked ever upward in the shuttered & derelict town. We went into the 15th-17th century Basilica Cathedral of Santa Margherita, which has one of the largest domes in Italy. It contains the remains of the 4th-century martyr Santa Margherita of Antioch, one of the saints mentioned in the visions of Joan of Arc (for more on her, see Catholic Online: St. Margaret of Antioch). It also holds the relics of Saint Lucia Filippini, a 17th-18th century educator of girls who established 52 schools.

walking up into Montefiascone
walking up into Montefiascone
Basilica Cathedral of Santa Margherita
Basilica Cathedral of Santa Margherita
Basilica Cathedral of Santa Margherita
Basilica Cathedral of Santa Margherita
Basilica Cathedral of Santa Margherita
Basilica Cathedral of Santa Margherita
Basilica Cathedral of Santa Margherita
Basilica Cathedral of Santa Margherita
Basilica Cathedral of Santa Margherita
Basilica Cathedral of Santa Margherita
Basilica Cathedral of Santa Margherita
Basilica Cathedral of Santa Margherita
Basilica Cathedral of Santa Margherita
Basilica Cathedral of Santa Margherita
Basilica Cathedral of Santa Margherita
Basilica Cathedral of Santa Margherita

We walked up and up to the Rocca dei Papi (Papal Fortress) park and pilgrim viewpoint with its great view over Lake Bolsena, passing by a concert being set up in the main square. The remains of the fortified Papal summer residence were here.

walking uphill to Rocca dei Papi park
walking uphill to Rocca dei Papi park
a concert being set up
a concert being set up
Rocca dei Papi park
Rocca dei Papi park
MnnFUoB9QziV7%uTHJEvNw
view from Rocca dei Papi park
view from Rocca dei Papi park
view of the dome of Cathedral of Santa Margherita
view of the dome of Cathedral of Santa Margherita
view from Rocca dei Papi park
view from Rocca dei Papi park
view from Rocca dei Papi park
view from Rocca dei Papi park
view from Rocca dei Papi park
view from Rocca dei Papi park
view from Rocca dei Papi park
view from Rocca dei Papi park
view from Rocca dei Papi park
view from Rocca dei Papi park
view from Rocca dei Papi park
view from Rocca dei Papi park
view of the dome of Cathedral of Santa Margherita
view of the dome of Cathedral of Santa Margherita

For dinner we went to the delightful Momma Poppa. I had fried egg yolk with potatoes cream Pecorino fondue & fresh truffle accompanied by wine. It was only an appetizer but it was delicious and perfect after our heavy lunch. I’m a real fan of truffles after this time in Italy. Darina had Tomino cheese with dried fruits and honey, also an appetizer. The atmosphere here was very pleasant.

Momma Poppa
Momma Poppa
fried egg yolk with potatoes cream pecorino fondue & fresh truffle
fried egg yolk with potatoes cream pecorino fondue & fresh truffle
Tomino cheese with dried fruits and honey
Tomino cheese with dried fruits and honey
me at Momma Poppa
me at Momma Poppa
Darina at Momma Poppa
Darina at Momma Poppa
Momma Poppa
Momma Poppa

Steps: 15,858; Miles: 6.72. No Stage Walk today. We took the bus.

Weather (Montefiascone): High 98°, Low 71°. Sunny.

Montefiascone to Viterbo (by bus)

Friday, July 21: We had breakfast at Hotel Italia & Lombardi in Montefiasconi  and at 10:00 we checked out to take the bus to Viterbo. Darina was still following the doctor’s orders and trying to avoid the sun, and I happily went along by bus, even though I could have chosen to walk the 18km stage on my own.

We stopped at the first cafe in Viterbo, Cafe Vergnano, and ate lunch. I had a refreshing shrimp salad sandwich with a cappuccino. We were waiting until Elisabetta from the apartment gave us the okay to check in. When she finally did, we had to walk 17 minutes to the medieval part of Viterbo, which was the second largest town we’d been in after Lucca at 67,804 people.

gate to Viterbo
gate to Viterbo
Darina at the door of our apartment
Darina at the door of our apartment
courtyard in medieval Viterbo
courtyard in medieval Viterbo
Viterbo
Viterbo
cute cafe in Viterbo
cute cafe in Viterbo
cute cafe in Viterbo
cute cafe in Viterbo

Viterbo was once the center of Etruscan culture (9thC-4thC BC). It grew to prominence in the Middle Ages as a stop on the Via Francigena, Sigeric’s Stage VI. As an outer defense of the Papal States, Viterbo was heavily fortified against invasion and its walls are intact and visible today.

In the 12th and 13th centuries, the town was a favored safe place for popes. Pope Eugenius III was besieged behind these walls in the 12th century.

The presence of the Papacy made Viterbo one of the most prominent cities of Central Italy, with a population of over 60,000. Wars and rebellions in the 14th century caused popes to avoid the town and it declined to become a mere regional capital within the Papal States.

We were able to drop our bags at Casa Medioevo, a nice apartment with two bedrooms. The place was very hot and the two fans didn’t work well at all. Elisabetta wasn’t finished cleaning so we went to Piazza Duomo, where we found the Palazzo di Papi, Papal seat for 24 years (1257-1281) whose lace-like loggia is visible to the right of the Cathedral.

Palazzo di Papi
Palazzo di Papi
view from the loggia of the Palazzo di Papi
view from the loggia of the Palazzo di Papi
loggia of Palazzo di Papi
loggia of Palazzo di Papi
Palazzo di Papi
Palazzo di Papi
Palazzo di Papi
Palazzo di Papi
Palazzo di Papi
Palazzo di Papi
Palazzo di Papi
Palazzo di Papi
Palazzo di Papi
Palazzo di Papi

We visited the bare but beautiful 12th-century Romanesque Cathedral of San Lorenzo (Duomo di Viterbo, or Cattedrale di San Lorenzo). It lacks much of the spectacular decoration with which it was originally adorned, due to an ill-advised sixteenth-century reconstruction. The cathedral was at the height of its significance during the middle and end of the 13th-century, when it and the attached Palazzo dei Papi di Viterbo was the home of the papal throne following its flight from Rome and prior to its resettlement in Avignon.

Romanesque Cathedral of San Lorenzo
Romanesque Cathedral of San Lorenzo
Romanesque Cathedral of San Lorenzo
Romanesque Cathedral of San Lorenzo
Romanesque Cathedral of San Lorenzo
Romanesque Cathedral of San Lorenzo
Romanesque Cathedral of San Lorenzo
Romanesque Cathedral of San Lorenzo
Romanesque Cathedral of San Lorenzo
Romanesque Cathedral of San Lorenzo
Romanesque Cathedral of San Lorenzo
Romanesque Cathedral of San Lorenzo
Romanesque Cathedral of San Lorenzo
Romanesque Cathedral of San Lorenzo
Romanesque Cathedral of San Lorenzo
Romanesque Cathedral of San Lorenzo
Romanesque Cathedral of San Lorenzo
Romanesque Cathedral of San Lorenzo
Romanesque Cathedral of San Lorenzo
Romanesque Cathedral of San Lorenzo
Romanesque Cathedral of San Lorenzo
Romanesque Cathedral of San Lorenzo
Romanesque Cathedral of San Lorenzo
Romanesque Cathedral of San Lorenzo

We also went to the Colle del Duomo Museum of Viterbo to see about the Etruscan ruins and to learn about the popes.

Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum
Colle del Duomo Museum

Less grand was the tiny 11th century Church of San Silvestro built on what was once the main market square.

Church of San Silvestro
Church of San Silvestro
Church of San Silvestro
Church of San Silvestro

Elisabetta finally texted us that the apartment was ready. Darina went up to shower and do laundry while I stopped at the pleasantly shaded Il Gargolo (The Gargoyle), where I stayed so long I finished two refreshing glasses of white wine. I wasn’t in any hurry to go to that oven of an apartment. I saw calamari was being served at the restaurant so I made reservations for the two of us at 7:30.During this time, both my phone and my Clutch died, and I had no way to reach Darina to have her let me into the apartment. Luckily I had my charging cable and was able to plug my phone in at the restaurant.

The apartment was in a very medieval part of the town with cute shops including ceramic shops. But of course the whole town shut down from 1:00-7:00, as every Italian town does.

Viterbo
Viterbo
Viterbo
Viterbo
Viterbo
Viterbo
Viterbo
Viterbo
Viterbo
Viterbo
Viterbo
Viterbo
Viterbo
Viterbo
Viterbo
Viterbo
Viterbo
Viterbo
Viterbo
Viterbo
Viterbo
Viterbo

I showered and did laundry and tried to relax in the room. Even though it was hot and miserable, it was worse outdoors and there was nothing to do anyway. So I napped and baked and wrote in my journal, waiting for the 7:30 relief hour when people could return to the streets.

my sweltering room at Casa Medioevo
my sweltering room at Casa Medioevo
the kitchen at Casa Medioevo
the kitchen at Casa Medioevo

We had a lovely dinner at Il Gargolo. I had another white wine but Darina wasn’t drinking because of her medication. I loved my fried calamari and gamberi (shrimps) and Darina enjoyed risotto with seafood.

Darina at Il Gargolo
Darina at Il Gargolo
risotto with seafood
risotto with seafood
me at Il Gargolo
me at Il Gargolo
fried calamari and gamberi (shrimps)
fried calamari and gamberi (shrimps)

Steps: 9,943; Miles: 4.22. No Stage Walk today. We took the bus.

Weather (Viterbo): High 92°, Low 69°. Sunny.

The Via Francigena is an ancient road and pilgrimage route that runs from Canterbury, England, through France and Switzerland, to Rome and then to Apulia, Italy, where there were ports of embarkation for the Holy Land. In around 990, Archbishop Sigeric journeyed from Canterbury to Rome and back, but only documented his itinerary on the return journey, taken in 80 stages averaging about 12 miles (20 km) a day, for a total of some 1,100 miles (1,700 km).

This is the continuing saga of our attempt to walk the stages from Lucca to Rome, which are, in total, about 255.07 miles (410.5 km). Since we had to cut out stages due to time constraints, our actual goal was to walk 211.77 miles ( 340.8 km).

Running tally (UNCHANGED): (Day 10): 99.4 /211.77 miles (159.95/340.8 km).

This post is in response to Jo’s Monday medley 2.

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  • Acquapendente
  • Bolsena
  • Europe

via francigena: acquapendente to bolsena

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 January 17, 2024

Wednesday, July 19, 2023: On Wednesday morning, Darina left Acquapendente to walk the whole stage to Bolsena at 5 a.m., while I left at 6 a.m. to catch the 6:25 bus to San Lorenzo Nuovo, skipping  about half of the 23.2 km stage. I quickly arrived in the town and went straight to the bar where I had my regular cappuccino and bought a rather stale prosciutto & cheese panino to take with me to Bolsena, since there were no services for 12km.

I had decided I would send my backpack ahead with Bags-Free, which I had used periodically for 20 euros per stage. This time I was informed that the cost for stages from Radicofani and Acquapendente to Rome was 30€ per stage! It was highway robbery compared to the Camino’s 5€/stage. But a desperate person is willing to spend what is necessary, and I had become desperate for ways to make this walk a little less miserable.

I ran into Pasquale, the French man who’d taken the bus with Darina yesterday, in the cafe. He told me that luckily it was flat to Bolsena, but I had read otherwise. I was proved to be right. He said he’d left Acquapendente at 4:50 am, around the same time as Darina, but he’d mysteriously arrived an hour before she did.

He told me he was walking to Bolsena today. He’d been “walking” since the Great Bernard Pass, but if he were that fast to be an hour ahead of Darina, he would surely have passed me today as I walked from San Lorenzo Nuovo to Bolsena. As it was, I barely saw a soul, not even him.

I left the town on my own but of course couldn’t go inside the Church of San Lorenzo Martire because it was closed so early in the morning. Apparently a 12th-century Byzantine cross was moved from the lower town and now stands in the 18th century church.

The original settlement at San Lorenzo alle Grotte (“San Lorenzo at the Caves”) was known since Etruscan times near caves set in the tall ridge. Due to lack of trade along the route and the presence of malaria, the town and highway were relocated in 1774 to the present location on the tall bluff above the shore of Lago di Bolsena, giving “San Lorenzo Nuovo” a new life but eliminating the medieval and Renaissance buildings that would have made it a charming town today.

After leaving San Lorenzo Nuovo, a view opened up to Lago di Bolsena. At 114 square kilometers, Lago di Bolsena is Europe’s largest volcanic lake. Between 100,000-200,000 years ago, successive volcanic eruptions led to the collapse of the earth’s crust in the volcano’s caldera, forming the lake and its two islands.Underground springs and stormwater runoff fill the lake, which flows to the sea through the Marta River.

Church of San Lorenzo Martire
Church of San Lorenzo Martire
Church of San Lorenzo Martire
Church of San Lorenzo Martire
view of Lago di Bolsena
view of Lago di Bolsena
view of Lago di Bolsena
view of Lago di Bolsena
view of Lago di Bolsena
view of Lago di Bolsena

After the impressive overlook, I followed a grassy path behind homes onto a pleasant forested path of wildflowers and gentle birdsong that was nearly drowned out by screeching cicadas. I ascended the hillside then descended through the forest and then headed downhill by a tree farm.

I then climbed and climbed with occasional glimpses of the lake. I passed a huge reddish-brown quarry and then headed downhill with clearer views to the lake.

the sign to the path
the sign to the path
views of Lago di Bolsena from the Via Francigena
views of Lago di Bolsena from the Via Francigena
views of Lago di Bolsena from the Via Francigena
views of Lago di Bolsena from the Via Francigena
views of Lago di Bolsena from the Via Francigena
views of Lago di Bolsena from the Via Francigena
views of Lago di Bolsena from the Via Francigena
views of Lago di Bolsena from the Via Francigena
views of Lago di Bolsena from the Via Francigena
views of Lago di Bolsena from the Via Francigena
views of Lago di Bolsena from the Via Francigena
views of Lago di Bolsena from the Via Francigena
views of Lago di Bolsena from the Via Francigena
views of Lago di Bolsena from the Via Francigena
views of Lago di Bolsena from the Via Francigena
views of Lago di Bolsena from the Via Francigena
views of Lago di Bolsena from the Via Francigena
views of Lago di Bolsena from the Via Francigena
views of Lago di Bolsena from the Via Francigena
views of Lago di Bolsena from the Via Francigena

I traipsed through a large field with no shade that seemed to go on forever then descended along a beautiful part of the path with dense forest to my left and fields to the right (shady!). I turned left before a “wind farm,” which was just one big windmill.

Welcome to Bolsena
Welcome to Bolsena
Via Francigena to Bolsena
Via Francigena to Bolsena
large unshaded field on the way to Bolsena
large unshaded field on the way to Bolsena
the endless field
the endless field
the endless field
the endless field
the endless field
the endless field
shade!
shade!
shade! :-)
shade! 🙂
map of Bolsena
map of Bolsena
another long hot path
another long hot path
another long hot path
another long hot path
another long hot path
another long hot path
a cyclist along the way
a cyclist along the way
a little grotto
a little grotto
approaching Bolsena
approaching Bolsena
approaching Bolsena
approaching Bolsena
approaching Bolsena
approaching Bolsena

Cristina at Agriturismo Riserva Montebello, where we would stay the night, had said there would be a sign on the Via Francigena for the place, somewhere north of Bolsena, but I never saw one. So I ended up in the town of Bolsena, meaning I’d have to backtrack and climb uphill to the Agriturismo.

The first place I saw was the Chiesa di San Salvatore, built in the early 20th century in a neo-Romanesque style. Of course, it wasn’t open when I walked past.

The Rocca Monaldeschi della Cervara sits at a prominent point above the town of Bolsena. The castle apparently dates back to 1156 when Adrian IV, because of the raids of Barbarossa, fortified centers on the Via Cassia.

I enjoyed a lentil soup lunch at I Sapori del Castello in Bolsena. The soup was very hot for such a hot day. Darina wrote to say she was 25 minutes away, so I waited until she arrived, tired after doing twice the distance I had. She ordered the same soup as I had and we relaxed in a slice of shade.

grotto near the entry to Bolsena
grotto near the entry to Bolsena
Chiesa di San Salvatore
Chiesa di San Salvatore
view of Bolsena from the hilltop
view of Bolsena from the hilltop
view of Bolsena from the hilltop
view of Bolsena from the hilltop
Rocca Monaldeschi della Cervara
Rocca Monaldeschi della Cervara
Rocca Monaldeschi della Cervara
Rocca Monaldeschi della Cervara
lunch at I Sapori del Castello
lunch at I Sapori del Castello
lunch at I Sapori del Castello
lunch at I Sapori del Castello
view from I Sapori del Castello
view from I Sapori del Castello
view from I Sapori del Castello
view from I Sapori del Castello
Darina's photo of me having lunch at I Sapori del Castello
Darina’s photo of me having lunch at I Sapori del Castello

Darina was having trouble with a red spot on her neck that was itching and burning so she wanted to find a doctor. I said I would go ahead and walk to the Agriturismo before it got too hot.

It turned out the sign had never existed directly on the Via Francigena but had been on a curvy road way uphill from Bolsena. I trudged up the curvy winding road 2.1 km for 40 minutes in hot sun with cars whizzing by. It was dangerous and pure torture. Finally I saw the sign for the Riserva and though the sign said 150 meters my GPS said 600 meters. I stopped and collapsed on a patch of asphalt to catch my breath and drink water before climbing the rest of the way.

Finally I arrived and told Cristina there was no sign for the Agriturismo directly on the Via Francigena as she had told me and she said, “No, the sign is on the road.” I said, “I asked specifically if it was on the Francigena and you told me it was.” Here was an example of someone exaggerating their proximity to the path to lure unsuspecting guests. I was not happy.

passing Rocca Monaldeschi della Cervara on my way uphill
passing Rocca Monaldeschi della Cervara on my way uphill
Chiesa di San Salvatore
Chiesa di San Salvatore
walking uphill to the Agriturismo
walking uphill to the Agriturismo
walking uphill to the Agriturismo
walking uphill to the Agriturismo
views of Bolsena as I climb to the Agriturismo
views of Bolsena as I climb to the Agriturismo
views of Bolsena as I climb to the Agriturismo
views of Bolsena as I climb to the Agriturismo
Agriturismo Riserva Montebello
Agriturismo Riserva Montebello
sign for the ever-elusive Agriturismo Riserva Montebello
sign for the ever-elusive Agriturismo Riserva Montebello
Agriturismo Riserva Montebello
Agriturismo Riserva Montebello
Agriturismo Riserva Montebello
Agriturismo Riserva Montebello
Alessandro, who gave Darina a ride up from Bolsena
Alessandro, who gave Darina a ride up from Bolsena
our room at Agriturismo Riserva Montebello
our room at Agriturismo Riserva Montebello

I showered and did laundry but I hadn’t heard from Darina. Finally she called to ask if I could get someone from the Agriturismo to drive down to Bolsena to pick her up. I seriously doubted Cristina would be any help but she surprisingly asked a young worker there, Alessandro, to drive down to Bolsena. So Darina was able to avoid that horrid walk.

She told me the pharmacy had been closed but she had found a doctor for tourists who told her the spot on her neck was either an allergy or a virus. I thought it might be sun poisoning but who was I to say? Anyway, they prescribed some meds but the pharmacy was closed until much later that afternoon or 9 a.m. the next morning. Darina said she’d need to rearrange the schedule for a few days to make it to the pharmacy in the morning and to take a break from walking as the doctor told her not to walk in the sun for a few days. I was happy to accompany her on any bus she chose to take and to give up walking for a couple of days. 🙂

It was a lazy afternoon in the Agriturismo as it actually is a place to stay for people with cars who can go out and explore various places. There was nothing to do or see and dinner wasn’t until 8:00. There was a pool on the property but for some reason it had been drained and they were in the slow process of filling it up again. I looked at it longingly but to no avail. We wished we had stayed in Bolsena as it seemed a very nice town. We napped and went out for drinks at 6:30. Darina didn’t want to drink because of her virus but since they brought 2 glasses of wine, I drank them both.

Darina at Agriturismo Riserva Montebello
Darina at Agriturismo Riserva Montebello
me at Agriturismo Riserva Montebello
me at Agriturismo Riserva Montebello
the spot on Darina's neck
the spot on Darina’s neck
Darina at Agriturismo Riserva Montebello
Darina at Agriturismo Riserva Montebello

We had a 3-course dinner at 8:00: Bruschetta with 4 different toppings, tagliatelle with cherry tomatoes and basil, and some kind of beef, which I didn’t eat as I don’t like meat, with overcooked green beans. They brought a dry heavy cake for dessert; I ate only a few bites. The dinner went on for a solid 2 hours and it was way too much food.

Bruschetta with 4 different toppings
Bruschetta with 4 different toppings
Darina having dinner at Agriturismo Riserva Montebello
Darina having dinner at Agriturismo Riserva Montebello
me having dinner at Agriturismo Riserva Montebello
me having dinner at Agriturismo Riserva Montebello
tagliatelle with cherry tomatoes and basil
tagliatelle with cherry tomatoes and basil
Agriturismo Riserva Montebello
Agriturismo Riserva Montebello
Agriturismo Riserva Montebello
Agriturismo Riserva Montebello

We decided we’d sleep in the next morning, eat breakfast, explore Bolsena and then take a bus to Montefiascone.

Steps: 25,724; Miles: 10.91. Day 10 Stage Walk: 7.46 miles, or 12.0km.

Weather: High 92°, Low 72°. Sunny.

The Via Francigena is an ancient road and pilgrimage route that runs from Canterbury, England, through France and Switzerland, to Rome and then to Apulia, Italy, where there were ports of embarkation for the Holy Land. In around 990, Archbishop Sigeric journeyed from Canterbury to Rome and back, but only documented his itinerary on the return journey, taken in 80 stages averaging about 12 miles (20 km) a day, for a total of some 1,100 miles (1,700 km).

This is the continuing saga of our attempt to walk the stages from Lucca to Rome, which are, in total, about 255.07 miles (410.5 km). Since we had to cut out stages due to time constraints, our actual goal was to walk 211.77 miles ( 340.8 km).

Running tally: (Day 10): 99.4 /211.77 miles (159.95/340.8 km).

This post is in response to Jo’s Monday Walk: Street Art struggles.

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  • Acquapendente
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via francigena: gallina to acquapendente

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 January 10, 2024
Gallina to Acquapendente: Crossing into Lazio

Monday, July 17: On Monday morning, I took a taxi from Gallina to Acquapendente (30 minutes for 60 euros!). This officially ended my time in Tuscany; I had entered Lazio. Darina had taken off early to walk on her own to Radicofani. She would spend the night there and walk on Tuesday to meet me in Acquapendente, where I would stay an extra night until she caught up.

The taxi driver was 35-year-old Andrea who lived in Radicofani but he was yearning to return to Florence where he lived and studied for a while. He was studying to be a mechanical engineer. He didn’t care for small town life. He said Tuscany was beautiful but we would find Lazio not as pretty. He said we would love Bolsena. But Acquapendente was nothing special and we would find Lazio to be flatter (We would wait to see about that).

I was in town by 9:00 am and was able to check in to the Il Teatro BB right away after a short stop in a bar for a cappuccino and chocolate croissant. I climbed 4 flights of stairs and got into the room and immediately turned on the air conditioning, the first I’d had since Buonconvento. What sweet relief. I was excited to have a place of my own where I could bask endlessly in the cool air.

I hung out in the room, which is the same building as the Teatro Boni, catching up in my journal for a long time, then I showered and went out to explore the town and have some lunch.

I left Tuscany today and entered Acqupendente in Lazio. This is Darina's photo; she didn't pass this sign until she left Radicofani the next day.
I left Tuscany today and entered Acqupendente in Lazio. This is Darina’s photo; she didn’t pass this sign until she left Radicofani the next day.
Teatro Boni
Teatro Boni

Acquapendente was first occupied in Pre-Roman times but only in the 10th century was it named for the Latin “hanging waters,” most likely due to waterfalls along the Paglia River below town. The town grew up around the Via Francigena. Its oft-rebuilt walls helped it fend off attacks from its principal rival Orvieto. The walls protected it during constant wars between imperial forces and those of the Papal States.

I dropped into Chiesa di Sant’Agostino built in the Gothic style in 1250. In 1746 a violent fire caused serious damage. During reconstruction it took on a more Baroque design. It has six chapels, three on each wall. A triumphal arch delineates the presbytery. The bell tower with a bulb dome is the work of Guglielmo Meluzzi.

I dropped by Casa Girolamo, where Darina and I would stay tomorrow night after she arrived, just so I’d be familiar with the lay of the land.

I dipped into another church, Chiesa San Pietro. Its façade faces the Francigena Road. Its presence on the pilgrim’s way could substitute for religious purposes, such as the visit to St. Peter’s tomb in Rome. I found two German pilgrims sitting on a bench outside the door, commiserating about the ordeal of walking in the heat.

Chiesa di Sant’Agostino
Chiesa di Sant’Agostino
Chiesa di Sant’Agostino
Chiesa di Sant’Agostino
Chiesa di Sant’Agostino
Chiesa di Sant’Agostino
Chiesa di Sant’Agostino
Chiesa di Sant’Agostino
Chiesa di Sant’Agostino
Chiesa di Sant’Agostino
Chiesa di Sant’Agostino
Chiesa di Sant’Agostino
Chiesa di Sant’Agostino
Chiesa di Sant’Agostino
Chiesa San Pietro
Chiesa San Pietro
Chiesa San Pietro
Chiesa San Pietro
Chiesa San Pietro
Chiesa San Pietro

I walked to the far end of town to Basilica Cattedrale di San Sepolcro. Originally the church of a former Benedictine monastery, the present building began as a 12th-century Romanesque church. It is a pilgrimage site due to the relics it contains of St. Bernard of Castro, and more importantly the reputed drops of the blood of Christ on a stone brought from the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. The beautifully preserved 10th-century crypt just below the main altar shows the relic behind glass. I was the only one in the church and I didn’t see how one got into the crypt, so I didn’t go into it, although Darina did when she arrived. I did enjoy the art exhibition in the church, with its oversized paintings and collages.

Sadly the Tourist Information across the street was closed on Mondays so I couldn’t get my pilgrim stamp. It is housed in a structure known as the “Julia de Jacopo Tower.” Here in 1550, a local girl closed the door in the city walls, which soldiers defending the city inadvertently left open, enabling it to withstand an attack by invaders.

By this time it was hot and the whole town was asleep. On my walk back, I found a couple of modern-day murals. I returned to Bar Roma for an egg salad sandwich on white bread and a Coke Zero. I bought a beer to bring back to my room.

Basilica Cattedrale di San Sepolcro
Basilica Cattedrale di San Sepolcro
Basilica Cattedrale di San Sepolcro
Basilica Cattedrale di San Sepolcro
Basilica Cattedrale di San Sepolcro
Basilica Cattedrale di San Sepolcro
peek at the crypt
peek at the crypt
peek at the crypt
peek at the crypt
Art exhibition at Basilica Cattedrale di San Sepolcro
Art exhibition at Basilica Cattedrale di San Sepolcro
Art exhibition at Basilica Cattedrale di San Sepolcro
Art exhibition at Basilica Cattedrale di San Sepolcro
Art exhibition at Basilica Cattedrale di San Sepolcro
Art exhibition at Basilica Cattedrale di San Sepolcro
Art exhibition at Basilica Cattedrale di San Sepolcro
Art exhibition at Basilica Cattedrale di San Sepolcro
Art exhibition at Basilica Cattedrale di San Sepolcro
Art exhibition at Basilica Cattedrale di San Sepolcro
Art exhibition at Basilica Cattedrale di San Sepolcro
Art exhibition at Basilica Cattedrale di San Sepolcro
street murals in Acquapendente
street murals in Acquapendente
street murals in Acquapendente
street murals in Acquapendente
Inside another church in Acquapendente
Inside another church in Acquapendente
Inside another church in Acquapendente
Inside another church in Acquapendente
Inside another church in Acquapendente
Inside another church in Acquapendente
Inside another church in Acquapendente
Inside another church in Acquapendente
a bushy building in Acquapendente
a bushy building in Acquapendente

I spent the afternoon relaxing and writing in my journal. After I enjoyed my beer, I took an hour nap. Darina called and told me the stage to Radicofani wasn’t as daunting as we’d been warned it was. She said the walk was shorter than the guidebook said and that there was an Agriturismo about 3 hours along that served lunch. She even climbed up the tower for amazing 360 degree views. She had boundless energy; I guess it helped that she’s 20 years younger than I am and super fit. I didn’t regret not going.

I ventured out at 6:30, withdrew some money from the bank, and went for dinner at Bottega Maius L’Enoteca. I enjoyed two glasses of white wine, 3 types of crostini, Cacio e Pepe, and a delicious Tortino al cioccolato in raspberry sauce. The place was owned by the very elegant wife of the guy renting me the Teatro BB. It was air-conditioned, very classy and had a great playlist with fabulous ambiance.I used my Shazam App to find what the songs were and I surprisingly found “Help” by Aaron Taylor and “Thelma and Louise (We’re Not Looking Back)” by Izo FitzRoy. I wished I’d remembered to turn it on earlier.

I certainly wasn’t dressed for such a classy place because I had ditched a bunch of my belongings in Bagno Vignoni in hopes of reducing my backpack weight. Some of the things I threw in the trash there were my “nighttime outfit,” two disposable rain jackets, and my headlamp. Getting rid of that stuff really didn’t make much difference in my pack weight because the thing that weighed most was water, which could not be reduced in the heat.

The elegant woman, maybe Elisa (?), asked if I was the guest at Teatro BB. I asked how she knew and she said she’d seen the photo of my documents at her house.

Bottega Maius L’Enoteca
Bottega Maius L’Enoteca
Bottega Maius L’Enoteca
Bottega Maius L’Enoteca
me at Bottega Maius L’Enoteca
me at Bottega Maius L’Enoteca
Cacio e pepe
Cacio e pepe
Tortino al cioccolato in raspberry sauce
Tortino al cioccolato in raspberry sauce

Back at the apartment, I talked to Mike for a bit. I saw Alex and Jandira finally post pictures of themselves at an outdoor concert and Jandira was really showing (she’s due in October). It brought tears to my eyes. I wanted so badly to get home to see the family. They’d be visiting us in August and we would have a baby shower for them.

I loved loved loved my rest day today. And lucky for me, I’d have another tomorrow as I waited for Darina to walk from Radicofani. I really couldn’t wait till this ordeal was over and I was back in the comfort of my own home.

Steps: 7,372; Miles: 3.13. No Stage walk for me today.

Weather: High 92°, Low 75°. Sunny. Red Warning for Extreme High Temperature.

A Day in Acquapendente

Tuesday, July 18: Acquapendente is not really a town where anyone would want to spend two days, but I was happy to stay there if it meant I didn’t have to walk in the heat and if I could stay cool in air conditioning. Luckily the Teatro BB guy allowed me to check out at 11 am Tuesday morning, extending my stay in air-conditioning. The woman at Casa Girolamo, the apartment Darina and I had reserved back in March, allowed me to check in as early as 9:00, but sadly that apartment didn’t have air conditioning. It had a fan luckily, but fans just push around hot air so it wasn’t all that comfortable, especially as the afternoon progressed.

After checking in at Casa Girolamo, I went to the tourist information and got my pilgrim stamp for the town. I stopped at a nice cafe, La Campanella Caffetteria, for a sweet treat and cappuccino. I got another stamp there.

Casa Girolamo
Casa Girolamo
Casa Girolamo
Casa Girolamo
Casa Girolamo
Casa Girolamo
Casa Girolamo
Casa Girolamo

Darina had walked from Radicofani but there was one dangerous stretch from Centeno and the guidebook recommended taking a bus from there to Acquapendente. It turned out there wasn’t much in Centeno and Darina had a hard time finding such a bus. She did get one, however, and I walked up to the bus stop to meet her and show her to the apartment. When she got off the bus, she was accompanied by a French guy, Pasquale, who was about 62 and had been walking from France. We would see him many times during the next stages.

After Darina showered and did her laundry, we went for a nice lunch in the air-conditioned Gran Bar. Usually all we see in bars are sandwiches behind glass that have been sitting there for heaven knows how long. The woman at Gran made us fresh sandwiches in buns with prosciutto and cheese and greens, accompanied by cold beers. We raised a toast to Darina’s two days of walking.

Although Darina said the path to Radicofani had been easier than the guidebook led us to believe, the walk downhill from Radicofani that morning was very steep and gravelly and harder than she expected. Knowing how much I feared steep gravelly descents, she said I would have hated it and it was a good thing I’d skipped the stage.

Gran Bar
Gran Bar
Darina at Gran Bar
Darina at Gran Bar
me at Gran Bar
me at Gran Bar

It was too hot for me to go out in the shuttered town, but Darina wanted to see it. So I relaxed in the apartment while she went out to see all the things I’d seen yesterday.

At dinner time, we went again to the fabulous Bottega Maius L’Enoteca, the place I’d eaten the night before. We had Vernaccia from San Gimignano and pizzas. Mine had zucchini and zucchini flowers and mozzarella. Darina’s had prosciutto, arugula and cheese. They were delicious. Of course we ordered the same chocolate cake I’d eaten the night before. Again, the ambiance at this place was fantastic, with a playlist that included “Sweet Water” and “Such a Fool” by The Meltdown and “If I Got It (Your Love Brought It)” by Aaron Frazer. Darina, as a middle-school teacher with a wonderful way with children, had a sweet conversation with the owner’s daughter.

Darina at Bottega Maius L’Enoteca
Darina at Bottega Maius L’Enoteca
appetizers
appetizers
pizza with zucchini and zucchini flowers and mozzarella
pizza with zucchini and zucchini flowers and mozzarella
pizza with prosciutto, arugula and cheese
pizza with prosciutto, arugula and cheese
me at Bottega Maius L’Enoteca
me at Bottega Maius L’Enoteca
me with Darina at Bottega Maius L’Enoteca
me with Darina at Bottega Maius L’Enoteca
Tortino al cioccolato in raspberry sauce
Tortino al cioccolato in raspberry sauce
Darina with the owner's daughter at Bottega Maius L’Enoteca
Darina with the owner’s daughter at Bottega Maius L’Enoteca

Steps: 6,502; Miles: 2.76. No Stage walk for me today.

Weather: High 93°, Low 76°. Sunny.

The Via Francigena is an ancient road and pilgrimage route that runs from Canterbury, England, through France and Switzerland, to Rome and then to Apulia, Italy, where there were ports of embarkation for the Holy Land. In around 990, Archbishop Sigeric journeyed from Canterbury to Rome and back, but only documented his itinerary on the return journey, taken in 80 stages averaging about 12 miles (20 km) a day, for a total of some 1,100 miles (1,700 km).

This is the continuing saga of our attempt to walk the stages from Lucca to Rome, which are, in total, about 255.07 miles (410.5 km). Since we had to cut out stages due to time constraints, our actual goal was to walk 211.77 miles ( 340.8 km).

Running tally (UNCHANGED): (Day 8 & 9): 91.94 /211.77 miles (147.95/340.8 km).

This post is in response to Jo’s Monday walk: to Chapel Allerton and beyond.

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  • Bagno Vignoni
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via francigena: buonconvento to san quirico d’orcia to gallina

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 January 3, 2024
Buonconvento to San Quirico d’Orcia

Saturday, July 15: On Saturday morning, we left Buonconvento at 4:50 am, our earliest start so far, since we had 21.7 km ahead to San Quirico d’Orcia. Little did I know how awful the next two days would be.

We hiked on a miserable path overgrown with grasses & weeds that scratched our legs. It took forever but we finally got on a wide gravel path leading up to the vineyards of Montalcino. Sadly it was foggy and we didn’t have any views to speak of.

We passed through vineyards of the prized Brunello di Montalcino grapes; the wines produced from these are considered some of Italy’s best and most expensive. They were first mentioned in the 14th century. The vintages benefit from the hot and dry sub-climate of the region. Strict requirements must be met to earn the Brunello DOCG appellation, according to Walking the Via Francigena Pilgrim Route Part 3: Lucca to Rome.

We walked past the buildings of the Tricherchi Winery complex at the summit.

We walked among cypresses all uphill in the fog past the Altesino Winery to the Caparzo Winery. It supposedly had a pilgrim wine tasting but of course it wasn’t open at that hour. It did have a picnic table and a fountain so we rested there a while.

Leaving Buonconvento in the dark
Leaving Buonconvento in the dark
Leaving Buonconvento in the dark
Leaving Buonconvento in the dark
the scratchy path
the scratchy path
the scratchy path
the scratchy path
tree-lined lanes in the fog
tree-lined lanes in the fog
tree-lined lanes in the fog
tree-lined lanes in the fog
tree-lined lanes in the fog
tree-lined lanes in the fog
vineyards
vineyards
vineyards
vineyards
tree-lined lanes in the fog
tree-lined lanes in the fog
vineyards
vineyards
tree-lined lanes in the fog
tree-lined lanes in the fog
Darina and me drenched in humidity & sweat
Darina and me drenched in humidity & sweat
orchards
orchards
on the way to Caparzo Winery
on the way to Caparzo Winery
Darina on the way to Caparzo Winery
Darina on the way to Caparzo Winery
cypress trees
cypress trees
me trudging through the cypresses
me trudging through the cypresses
cypress trees
cypress trees
cypress trees
cypress trees
cypress trees
cypress trees
Caparzo Winery
Caparzo Winery
Caparzo Winery
Caparzo Winery
view to the sky from a table at Caparzo Winery
view to the sky from a table at Caparzo Winery
Caparzo Winery
Caparzo Winery

We continued on the uphill road forever and as the fog burned off, we had majestic views of the Tuscan countryside. We walked along the ridges with almost no shade for what seemed an eternity.

We could see the town of Montalcino on a hilltop across the valley but the path didn’t pass through that town. No matter, Mike and I had visited it by car in 2019: tuscany: montalcino.

Tuscan countryside on the way to Torrenieri
Tuscan countryside on the way to Torrenieri
Darina walking
Darina walking
vineyards near Montalcino
vineyards near Montalcino
vineyards near Montalcino
vineyards near Montalcino
countryside near Montalcino
countryside near Montalcino
view of Montalcino
view of Montalcino
view of Montalcino
view of Montalcino
view of Montalcino
view of Montalcino
vineyards
vineyards
view of Montalcino
view of Montalcino
05572ef9-90b8-4134-85eb-7eb1fdff8af4
the long hot road
the long hot road
sweltering path
sweltering path
view of Montalcino
view of Montalcino
making my way through Tuscany in sweltering heat
making my way through Tuscany in sweltering heat
Tuscan countryside
Tuscan countryside
Tuscan countryside
Tuscan countryside
view of Montalcino
view of Montalcino
Tuscan countryside
Tuscan countryside
Tuscan countryside
Tuscan countryside

Finally we reached the small town of Torrenieri, where we stopped at a cafe. We basked in the cool interior and had honey pastries; I enjoyed a cappuccino. It was a much needed break from the hot sun. A castle is believed to have stood in this town as early as the 9th-10th centuries. Its existence was documented in 990 as Sigeric’s Stage XIII Turreiner. In the Middle Ages it was important in the region for being on the Via Francigena, between the Orcia and Arbia valleys. Because it had few natural defenses, the town was often sacked by passing armies, including a 1235 pillage and conflagration by the army of Orvieto. In the 14th & 15th centuries, Siena fortified its walls and used it as one of its territorial defenses, but with the fall of Siena and the rise of Florence, the town drifted into obscurity. Documents record a pilgrim hostel dedicated to Sant’Antonio here in 1601.

Torrenieri
Torrenieri
church in Torrenieri
church in Torrenieri
church in Torrenieri
church in Torrenieri
church in Torrenieri
church in Torrenieri
church in Torrenieri
church in Torrenieri

Downhill past the church, we aimed for the bottom of the valley. A quiet asphalt road, SP137, carried us the next hour, making a long and gradual climb to a summit.

As we descended on the road we could see San Quirico d’Orcia on the ridge between two hills ahead. Darina was so far ahead of me I’d lost sight of her. I thought I’d just walk alongside the road into San Quirico, which would certainly be a lot flatter and shorter (albeit more dangerous) than the path. But when I got to where the path branched off, there was Darina waiting for me in case I missed the turn off.  We took a gravel path and went under the highway overpass and made a steep and sustained climb in the hot sun, passing through olive orchards, alongside a farmhouse. After a very long time, we stopped to rest in the shade on some logs that someone had cut and left helter skelter on the ground. Two Italian women came and joined us, Graciela Maria and Julia. They were from Sicily but were on a quest to do several days each year on the Via Francigena. Graciela Maria was a middle school English teacher like Darina was, so they arranged to have their students work together on some projects. She was part Italian and part Irish.

Graciela Maria changed into flip flops and planned to walk in them the rest of the way to San Quirico. I honestly didn’t know how she’d do it as the path was still a long distance and very rough.

More treeless Tuscan countryside
More treeless Tuscan countryside
Tuscan countryside
Tuscan countryside
Tuscan countryside
Tuscan countryside
Tuscan countryside
Tuscan countryside
Tuscan countryside
Tuscan countryside
Tuscan countryside
Tuscan countryside
Tuscan countryside
Tuscan countryside
Tuscan countryside
Tuscan countryside
Tuscan countryside
Tuscan countryside
Darina, Julia, me and Graciela Maria
Darina, Julia, me and Graciela Maria

Then we traipsed through a sparse forest for a long while. We eventually walked up steps to San Quirico d’Orcia and turned toward the Collegiate Church of Saints Quirico & Giulitta, starting the pretty pedestrian walk through the charming town.

We had to walk all the way through town to our accommodation, an apartment called Cesaroni House. The woman who rented it out was someone who really didn’t care about her guests, and especially not about pilgrims. I had sent my backpack ahead through Bags Free, for the steep sum of 20 euros (on the Camino de Santiago it was 5 euros per stage), but the bag had not arrived. It was about 1:30 by this time, and the woman called the Hotel Ghibellino in Buonconvento  to find it was still sitting in the hotel lobby. They said it would be there in an hour and half. I was so annoyed because I couldn’t shower, change out of my hiking boots, or change out of my sweaty clothes. I had sent it ahead because today was a 7 hour stage and I wasn’t doing well carrying it in the extreme heat. This was the 2nd time Bags Free had been late delivering my bag and I’d only used them several times. This is one of the main problems in Italy. Between taxi services which have a complete monopoly (there is no Uber in Italy) and a service like Bags Free (It only has one competitor which has more strict rules about which accommodations they can deliver to), you’re totally at their mercy.

Darina and I went to a nearby restaurant for lunch as the woman at Cesaroni house said she’d contact me about 10 minutes before Bags Free was to arrive. (She had to go somewhere, or so she said). Finally the bag arrived around 3:00, and I was finally able to shower and do laundry, etc. By this time I was extremely irritable.

San Quirico d’Orcia
San Quirico d’Orcia
Collegiate Church of Saints Quirico & Giulitta
Collegiate Church of Saints Quirico & Giulitta
Collegiate Church of Saints Quirico & Giulitta
Collegiate Church of Saints Quirico & Giulitta
San Quirico d’Orcia
San Quirico d’Orcia
San Quirico d’Orcia
San Quirico d’Orcia
San Quirico d’Orcia
San Quirico d’Orcia

Darina had gone into town to check out all the churches, so I walked up on my own. I needed some space between being annoyed about the air-conditioning situation in Buonconvento, the general lack of air conditioning in today’s accommodation and everywhere,  and general frustration with the heat and the difficulty of the walk. I stopped at a wine bar, Intralci, and talked for a long time with the waiter there as I enjoyed two glasses of cool white wine. He asked why on earth I would subject myself to such misery on this path in summer. I hate the summer at all times, but the only reason I’d come in summer was because I wanted to do it with Darina and she is on a teacher’s schedule. I told the guy I was tempted to change my ticket, go directly to Rome by bus, and fly home. It was a good time to vent and have someone who understood my suffering. He was totally sympathetic and said sometimes we make bad decisions, which I definitely felt I had done. He also said it was a shame because Italians along the Via Francigena don’t care about the pilgrims, the stages are long, difficult and without services and the heat is unbearable.

Finally Darina joined me after she’d gone to mass. By then I had mellowed out and we wandered around  looking for a place to eat.

We found a nice restaurant, Bar Pane Pizza Pasticceria, where I had a yummy spelt, chestnut and porcini mushroom soup and Darina had a meat that is famous in the area.

wedding at Collegiate Church of Saints Quirico & Giulitta
wedding at Collegiate Church of Saints Quirico & Giulitta
San Quirico d’Orcia
San Quirico d’Orcia
San Quirico d’Orcia
San Quirico d’Orcia
me and Darina at Bar Pane Pizza Pasticceria
me and Darina at Bar Pane Pizza Pasticceria
Darina at Bar Pane Pizza Pasticceria
Darina at Bar Pane Pizza Pasticceria
me at Bar Pane Pizza Pasticceria
me at Bar Pane Pizza Pasticceria
San Quirico d’Orcia
San Quirico d’Orcia

Steps: 38,755; Miles: 16.44. Day 8 Stage Walk: 14.76 miles, or 23.75km.

Weather: San Quirico d’Orcia: Hi 96°, Lo 67°. Sunny.

San Quirico d’Orcia to Gallina

Sunday, July 16: We started walking at 5:15 Sunday morning, and we immediately started climbing. Luckily for once we had stayed on the far end of town, so we didn’t have to walk through town. We walked through a neighborhood of suburban homes and then into fields framed by pine & cypress trees. The road turned to gravel and climbed, sometimes steeply. I think somehow the Via Francigena manages to take pilgrims to the top of every hill in Tuscany. Ugh.

We saw a vista of Roca d’Orcia with its rectangular castle. We reached the summit of the climb. On a hilltop far across the valley, we could see the tall tower of the fortress at Radicofani, our goal for the next day.

The road turned to concrete as we descended and then we took a gravel trail to Vignoni Alto, a picturesque castle/hamlet that was a sentry point for Bagno Vignoni below. From there we had an iconic view of the Tuscan countryside.

Tuscan sunrise
Tuscan sunrise
Tuscan sunrise
Tuscan sunrise
Tuscan countryside
Tuscan countryside
Our morning selfie
Our morning selfie
Tuscan countryside
Tuscan countryside
I run into some cyclists along the way
I run into some cyclists along the way
Vignoni Alto
Vignoni Alto
Vignoni Alto
Vignoni Alto
first views of Radicofani
first views of Radicofani
descending to Bagno Vignoni
descending to Bagno Vignoni
views of Radicofani
views of Radicofani
descending
descending
views of Radicofani
views of Radicofani
glimpses of Radicofani between the cypresses
glimpses of Radicofani between the cypresses
glimpses of Radicofani between the cypresses
glimpses of Radicofani between the cypresses

A steep gravel trail took us down to the Piazza delle Sorgenti (“Square of Springs”) in Bagno Vignoni, surrounded by small hotels, a bar and the Church of San Giovanni Batista.

Springs in the small town of Bagno Vignoni (pop. 30), largely unchanged since the Middle Ages, have been enjoyed since Etruscan times. Medieval notables such as St. Catherine of Siena, Pope Pius II, and Lorenzo the Magnificent frequented the springs. Picturesque buildings surround a pool of spring-fed hot water, making it the only aquatic piazza in Italy. The spring waters flow out toward the Orcia River.

Bagno Vignoni
Bagno Vignoni
Bagno Vignoni
Bagno Vignoni
Bagno Vignoni
Bagno Vignoni
Church of San Giovanni Batista
Church of San Giovanni Batista
Bagno Vignoni
Bagno Vignoni
Bagno Vignoni
Bagno Vignoni
me in search of a cafe in Bagno Vignoni
me in search of a cafe in Bagno Vignoni
Bagno Vignoni
Bagno Vignoni
Bagno Vignoni
Bagno Vignoni

We were too early for the bar, so we wandered for a while around the Estruscan ruins (Mike and I had visited them in 2019: montepulciano > bagno vignoni > san quirico d’orcia (again)). Then we returned to the town to finally find the bar open. The servers were extremely rude. I said to the waitress, “What is your problem?” She responded with great frustration, “We have hotel guests to serve!” Heaven forbid they should be remotely accommodating to tired and hungry pilgrims. These were the only services we would encounter for the entire stage, so we really wanted to have some food.

Just outside of town, I ditched a bunch of my belongings in a trash can in hopes of reducing my backpack weight. Some of the things I threw in the trash were my “nighttime outfit,” two disposable rain jackets, and my headlamp (it was rarely dark when we were walking). Getting rid of that stuff really didn’t make much difference in my pack weight because the thing that weighed most was water. That could not be reduced in the extreme heat.

Estruscan ruins in Bagno Vignoni
Estruscan ruins in Bagno Vignoni
view of Radicofani
view of Radicofani
Estruscan ruins in Bagno Vignoni
Estruscan ruins in Bagno Vignoni
Estruscan ruins in Bagno Vignoni
Estruscan ruins in Bagno Vignoni
view of countryside from Etruscan ruins
view of countryside from Etruscan ruins
Estruscan ruins in Bagno Vignoni
Estruscan ruins in Bagno Vignoni

After our break, we took a detour because the pedestrian bridge was broken. It was a good thing the woman from today’s accommodation, Ostello La Vecchia Posta, had warned us because there were no signposts at all.

We had to go uphill then down a steep rough trail to return to the path. It was a rough and hot walk after that. The path circled up and around a hill past a farm where a bunch of dogs were barking up a storm. I took out my Birdie alarm and clutched it in my hand in case I needed to use it to scare the dogs. Luckily they were all caged.

We passed a vineyard and an orchard and traversed a hillside and through fields with Castiglione d’Orcia to the right. A road led us then to the bottom of a wide valley.

We crossed a bridge over Torrente Onzola and then a second bridge. Another climb and then we were out in the open with fields all around.

Tuscan countryside after Bagno Vignoni
Tuscan countryside after Bagno Vignoni
Tuscan countryside after Bagno Vignoni
Tuscan countryside after Bagno Vignoni
me climbing again
me climbing again
Tuscan countryside after Bagno Vignoni
Tuscan countryside after Bagno Vignoni

We found a lovely picnic table and fountain where we sat awhile and relaxed, even taking off our shoes. It was a good thing this place appeared, as it was barely mentioned in the guidebook and I had almost run out of water. Then we were out in the open with no shade anywhere for the last 4 km into Gallina, which was 2.8km off the track. Luckily we were told we wouldn’t have to backtrack the next day to return to the Via Francigena. It was a long miserable slog with no relief anywhere. This stretch almost did me in and I honestly worried I would die of heat exhaustion.

the house near the welcome rest area
the house near the welcome rest area
the stretch from the rest area to Gallina
the stretch from the rest area to Gallina
the long hot road to Gallina
the long hot road to Gallina
countryside near Gallina
countryside near Gallina
Darina walks to Gallina
Darina walks to Gallina
me trying to make it to Gallina
me trying to make it to Gallina
countryside near Gallina
countryside near Gallina
countryside near Gallina
countryside near Gallina
countryside near Gallina
countryside near Gallina
countryside near Gallina
countryside near Gallina
countryside near Gallina
countryside near Gallina
countryside near Gallina
countryside near Gallina

We arrived in Gallina around 1:30 but we couldn’t check in to Ostello La Vecchia Posta until 2:30. We hauled our bags into Il Parallelo, a pretty fancy restaurant. We definitely looked like what the cat dragged in. I had a glass of cool white wine and Darina had a beer. I enjoyed tagliatelle with mushrooms and truffles and Darina had risotto with truffles. It felt so good to be out of the sun in a cool place.

We ordered a legume soup for take out for dinner; we could pick it up at 7:00. This only restaurant in town closed at 5:00 but prepared dinner for take out.

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Darina and I have lunch at Il Parallelo after making it to Gallina. I was never so happy to sit down!

We finally checked in to the Ostello where we met a French couple, Gaetano and Sylvie. They had been biking all over Europe for a couple of months and planned to continue another 1 1/2 months. They were in their early 60s and very fit. I am so impressed by the stamina of some people.

Today had been such a miserable day of walking for me in the heat that I went to work trying to book a taxi for Acquapendente, two stages ahead. There was only one bus from Gallina to Acquapendente on Monday and it was 5:00 in the evening, meaning I’d have to hang out all day with nothing to do in Gallina. There was no way I could endure the 18.7km walk including a 12km climb to Radicofani the next day. Also, Radicofani is a very small town, so I had no idea how I could get down from there the day after. Thus I wanted a taxi to take me the two stages. Darina of course would walk, as she is 20 years younger than me, and fit and strong. I was not about to put my health or life at risk in the face of the Italian government’s extreme heat warnings. Also, the walks were always longer than what the guidebook said.

I found an air-conditioned B&B in Acquapendente and, after many dead-end phone calls, found an expensive taxi for 60€ to take me Monday morning on the 30-minute drive. I couldn’t wait to spend an entire day in air-conditioning all by myself. Of course I had committed to walk with Darina so I also paid her my half of the accommodation in Radicofani. All of this cost me a pretty penny but it was worth every cent.

We went to the only bar in town, where we had beers on tap and Darina ordered sandwiches to take with her on her walk to Radicofani, where the guidebook said there were no services.

After hanging in the bar, we picked up our legume soup and ate in the Ostello kitchen with the French couple. We had a fun time communicating as they didn’t speak English and I couldn’t think of any French words and kept speaking Spanish, with Darina translating my elementary Spanish to French. Oh, I am so bad with languages despite all my studies!

Darina and I eating in the Ostello
Darina and I eating in the Ostello
our take-out legume soup
our take-out legume soup
Gaetano and Sylvie
Gaetano and Sylvie
Gaetano and Sylvie
Gaetano and Sylvie
Darina, Gaetano, Sylvie & me
Darina, Gaetano, Sylvie & me

Steps: 33,808; Miles 14.34. Day 9 Stage Walk: 9.57 miles, or 15.4km.

Weather: San Quirico d’Orcia: Hi 103°, Lo 67°. *Red Warning for Extreme High Temperature.

The Via Francigena is an ancient road and pilgrimage route that runs from Canterbury, England, through France and Switzerland, to Rome and then to Apulia, Italy, where there were ports of embarkation for the Holy Land. In around 990, Archbishop Sigeric journeyed from Canterbury to Rome and back, but only documented his itinerary on the return journey, taken in 80 stages averaging about 12 miles (20 km) a day, for a total of some 1,100 miles (1,700 km).

This is the continuing saga of our attempt to walk the stages from Lucca to Rome, which are, in total, about 255.07 miles (410.5 km). Since we had to cut out stages due to time constraints, our actual goal was to walk 211.77 miles ( 340.8 km).

Running tally (Day 8 & 9): 91.94 /211.77 miles (147.95/340.8 km).

Linking this post to Jo’s Monday Walk: it’s New Year’s Day!

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