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    • on returning home
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  • Home
  • about ~ wander.essence ~
    • ~ the places i’ve been ~
    • ~ places i’ve been in the u.s.a. ~
  • Travel Destinations
    • America
      • Boston
      • Delaware
      • District of Columbia
        • Washington
      • Georgia
        • Atlanta
      • Maryland
      • New Jersey
        • Cape May
      • New York
        • Adirondacks
        • Buffalo
        • Niagara Falls
      • Pennsylvania
        • Pittsburgh
      • South Carolina
      • Tennessee
        • Nashville
      • Virginia
    • American Road Trips
      • Canyon & Cactus Road Trip
      • Florida Road Trip
        • Everglades
        • Fort Lauderdale
        • Florida Keys
        • Miami
        • St. Augustine
      • Four Corners Road Trip
        • Arizona
          • Monument Valley
          • Petrified Forest National Park
          • Sunset Crater National Monument
          • Walnut Canyon National Monument
          • Winslow
          • Wupatki National Monument
        • Colorado
          • Colorado National Monument
          • Colorado Towns
          • Great Sand Dunes National Park
          • Grand Junction
        • New Mexico
        • Utah
          • Arches National Park
          • Canyonlands
          • Navajo National Monument
          • Dead Horse Point State Park
          • Hovenweep National Monument
          • Moab
          • Valley of the Gods
          • Natural Bridges National Monument
      • Great Lakes Road Trip
        • Michigan
        • Minnesota
        • Wisconsin
      • Midwestern Triangle
        • Illinois
          • Carbondale
          • Murphysboro
        • Kentucky
          • Covington
          • Lexington
          • Louisville
        • Ohio
          • Cincinnati
      • Road Trip to Nowhere
        • Nebraska
        • North Dakota
        • South Dakota
      • Tex-New Mex Road Trip
        • Texas & New Mexico Road Trip
        • New Mexico
        • Texas
    • International Travel
      • Africa
        • african meanderings {& musings}
        • Egypt
          • Cairo
        • Ethiopia
        • Morocco
      • Asia
        • Cambodia
        • China
          • China Diaries
          • Guangxi Province
        • India
          • Rishikesh
          • Varanasi
        • Japan
          • Kyoto
        • Myanmar
        • Oman
          • a nomad in the land of nizwa
          • Nizwa
        • Singapore
        • South Korea
          • catbird in korea
        • Thailand
        • Turkey
          • Cappadocia
        • Vietnam
      • Central America
        • Costa Rica
        • El Salvador
        • Nicaragua
        • Panama
          • Bocas del Toro
          • Panama City
      • Europe
        • In Search of a Thousand Cafés
        • Croatia
          • Dalmatia
            • Istria
            • Dubrovnik
            • Plitvice Lakes National Park
            • Split
            • Zadar
            • Zagreb
        • Czech Republic
          • Český Krumlov
        • England
        • France
        • Greece
        • Hungary
          • Budapest
          • Esztergom
        • Iceland
        • Italy
          • Bergamo
          • Cinque Terre
          • The Dolomites
          • Florence
          • Rome
          • Tuscany
          • Venice
          • Verona
          • Via Francigena
        • Portugal
        • Spain
          • Camino de Santiago
            • packing list for el camino de santiago 2018
      • North America
        • Canada
          • The Maritimes
            • New Brunswick
            • Nova Scotia
            • Prince Edward Island
          • Ontario
      • South America
        • Colombia
        • Ecuador
          • Cuenca
          • Quito
    • how to make the most of a staycation
      • Coronavirus Coping
  • Imaginings
    • imaginings: the call to place
  • Travel Preparation
    • journeys: anticipation & preparation
  • Travel Creativity
    • on keeping a travel journal
    • on creating art from travels
      • Art Journaling
    • photography inspiration
      • Photography
    • writing prompts: prose
      • Prose
        • Fiction
        • Travel Essay
        • Travelogue
    • writing prompts: poetry
      • Poetry
  • On Journey
    • on journey: taking ourselves from here to there
  • Books & Movies
    • books | international a-z |
    • books & novels | u.s.a. |
    • books | history, spirituality, personal growth & lifestyle |
    • movies | international a-z |
    • movies | u.s.a. |
  • On Returning Home
    • on returning home
  • Annual recap
    • twenty-fifteen
    • twenty-eighteen
    • twenty-nineteen
    • twenty-twenty
    • twenty-twenty-one
    • twenty twenty-two
    • twenty twenty-three
    • twenty twenty-four
    • twenty twenty-five
  • Contact

wander.essence

wander.essence

Home from Morocco & Italy

Home sweet home!May 10, 2019
I'm home from Morocco & Italy. :-)

Italy trip

Traveling to Italy from MoroccoApril 23, 2019
On my way to Italy!

Leaving for Morocco

Casablanca, here I come!April 4, 2019
I'm on my way to Casablanca. :-)

Home from our Midwestern Triangle Road Trip

Driving home from Lexington, KYMarch 6, 2019
Home sweet home from the Midwest. :-)

Leaving for my Midwestern Triangle Road Trip

Driving to IndianaFebruary 24, 2019
Driving to Indiana.

Returning home from Portugal

Home sweet home from Spain & Portugal!November 6, 2018
Home sweet home from Spain & Portugal!

Leaving Spain for Portugal

A rendezvous in BragaOctober 26, 2018
Rendezvous in Braga, Portgual after walking the Camino de Santiago. :-)

Leaving to walk the Camino de Santiago

Heading to Spain for the CaminoAugust 31, 2018
I'm on my way to walk 790 km across northern Spain on the Camino de Santiago.

Home from my Four Corners Road Trip

Home Sweet Home from the Four CornersMay 25, 2018
Home Sweet Home from the Four Corners. :-)

My Four Corners Road Trip!

Hitting the roadMay 1, 2018
I'm hitting the road today for my Four Corners Road Trip: CO, UT, AZ, & NM!

Recent Posts

  • twenty twenty-five: nicaragua {twice}, mexico & seven months in costa rica {with an excursion to panama} December 31, 2025
  • the december cocktail hour: mike’s surgery, a central highlands road trip & christmas in costa rica December 31, 2025
  • top ten books of 2025 December 28, 2025
  • the november cocktail hour: a trip to panama, a costa rican thanksgiving & a move to lake arenal condos December 1, 2025
  • panama: the caribbean archipelago of bocas del toro November 24, 2025
  • a trip to panama city: el cangrejo, casco viejo & the panama canal November 22, 2025
  • the october cocktail hour: a trip to virginia, a NO KINGS protest, two birthday celebrations, & a cattle auction October 31, 2025
  • the september cocktail hour: a nicoya peninsula getaway, a horseback ride to la piedra del indio waterfalls & a fall bingo card September 30, 2025
  • the august cocktail hour: local gatherings, la fortuna adventures, & a “desfile de caballistas”  September 1, 2025
  • the july cocktail hour: a trip to ometepe, nicaragua; a beach getaway to tamarindo; & homebody activities August 3, 2025
  • the june cocktail hour: our first month in costa rica June 30, 2025
  • a pura vida year in costa rica June 12, 2025
  • the may cocktail hour: final wrap up, a wedding & leaving for costa rica June 2, 2025

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upper ute canyon & the coke ovens trail at colorado national monument

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 July 1, 2018

As we drove along Canyon Rim Drive, we stopped for a side view of Independence Monument. The first caretaker of Colorado National Monument, John Otto, climbed boldly up the 450-foot sandstone Independence Monument on July 4, 1911, where he hoisted the U.S. flag to celebrate Independence Day.  Every July 4, about 30 Grand Valley climbers follow Otto’s footsteps to the top of Independence Monument with the guidance of the Mesa County Search and Rescue Team.

To make that first ascent in 1911, Otto hand-drilled holes up the north and west face of the sandstone monolith and pounded iron pipes into the holes, creating an iron ladder for others to follow.

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side view of Independence Monument

Monument Canyon is more expansive than Wedding Canyon, and lies to the south of the latter.  We stop for a look at the Monument Canyon View, and a little further south, Artists Point.

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Monument Canyon View

The palette of color at Artists Point includes lichens, dark brown desert varnish (iron and manganese compounds and clay), white calcite coatings, and the browns, yellows, blues and greens found in mudstones.  Clear quartz grains appear rust red in the sandstones due to iron oxide.

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Artist’s Point

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Artist’s Point

The Upper Ute Canyon overlook is known for the formation that looks like a mummy on the opposite wall.

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Upper Ute Canyon overlook – mummy

As we walk along the canyon rim, we can experience an echo effect. We do our share of yelling and listening to our echoes, as the curved walls of the canyon take our voices and hurl them back at us.

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Upper Ute Canyon Overlook – the echo chamber

In the video below, you can hear us yelling, but sadly the echo is barely audible.  I can hear it on my original, and while we were there, we could hear it loud and clear. 🙂

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desert paintbrush, or Castilleja

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Ute Canyon

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Ute Canyon

We drive as far south as we can until we are forced to turn around; the road to the park’s East (Grand Junction) Entrance is closed for repairs. Turning back, we stop for lunch at the Red Canyon Overlook then head for the Coke Ovens Overlook and Trail. Below is our view of Monument Canyon as we descend on the trail. At this time of day, around 1:40, it’s getting quite warm.

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Coke Ovens Trail

The path skirts Entrada Sandstone outcroppings on its descent to the overlook.

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Coke Ovens Trail

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Coke Ovens Trail

Carved by weathering and erosion, the massive Coke Ovens resemble the man-made ovens used to convert coal into coke (industrial fuel) from the early 20th century.

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Coke Ovens overlook

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Juniper-pinyon woodland

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Coke Ovens

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Coke Ovens

This trail was only 1.4 miles out and back, a short hike well worth the views of the Coke Ovens from above.

***********************

On Sundays, I plan to post various walks that I took on our Four Corners trip as well as hikes I take locally while training for the Camino de Santiago; I may also post on other unrelated subjects. I will use these posts to participate in Jo’s Monday Walks or any other challenges that catch my fancy.

This post is in response to Jo’s Monday Walk: Cragside.

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  • American Road Trips
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  • challenge: a call to place

the call to place: buffalo & niagara falls

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 June 28, 2018

Oh, the overwhelming and breathtaking power of water.  I could stand for hours mesmerized by waterfalls, listening to the roar of water as it makes its way from high ground to low, spellbound by its sheer volume and power as it tumbles over cliffs and into gorges, where it swells and sinks and swirls in rapids and whirlpools.

I’ve seen waterfalls that separate countries, such as Detian Waterfall on the border of China and Vietnam, as well as Dettifoss in Iceland, a waterfall known as having the greatest volume of any waterfall in Europe.

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Detian Waterfall on the border between China and Vietnam

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Dettifoss in Iceland

Surprisingly I haven’t seen as many waterfalls in my travels as one would expect.  However, of the ones I have seen, each is unique.

Gullfoss in Iceland's Golden Circle
Gullfoss in Iceland’s Golden Circle
Gullfoss in Iceland's Golden Circle
Gullfoss in Iceland’s Golden Circle

Iceland has an abundance of entrancing waterfalls.

the top of Godafoss in Iceland
the top of Godafoss in Iceland
Godafoss
Godafoss
waterfalls near Seyðisfjörður
waterfalls near Seyðisfjörður
Skaftafell in Iceland
Skaftafell in Iceland
Skogafoss in Iceland
Skogafoss in Iceland
One of the falls feeding into Skogafoss
One of the falls feeding into Skogafoss

I imagine the force of Niagara Falls, as it rushes over a 17-story cliff, is tumultuous and wild, unfettered and impassioned.  I’m excited to see it and immerse myself in the experience. 🙂

It’s hard to believe that, as an American who lives about a 7-hour drive from Niagara Falls, I’ve never been to visit.  I generally don’t enjoy places that are too touristy, commercial or kitschy and I have in my mind that Niagara Falls is all of those things. Though Niagara’s reputation has deterred me in the past, I have become curious. I’m determined to see it even if it ultimately disappoints.

The idea of Niagara Falls came to me in January when I plotted out my 2018 travel plans.  I was looking for a place within a day’s drive that I could visit on my own or with the extended family, including my adult children.  My husband quashed the idea of going because he simply wasn’t interested.  “Too touristy,” he gave as his reason. Then my sons ventured out west to live in Colorado, which made it no longer feasible as a family destination.

When I mentioned my plans to an old friend of mine from Oman, who now lives in Waterloo, Ontario, she told me she lives less than two hours away from the Canadian side of Niagara Falls. We planned that when I visited, I’d meet her on the Canadian side and we’d spend a day together.  Since she recently lost her mother and has taken a number of days off from work, she only has one day to meet me.  The plan has been laid. I haven’t seen this friend since I left Oman in June of 2013, so by the time we meet, I won’t have seen her for five years. One of the things she wants to do is to visit the Butterfly Conservatory.

While on my Four Corners road trip, I became addicted to the Passport To Your National Parks.  When you visit the U.S. National Parks, Monuments, or Historic Sites, you can get a sticker describing and picturing the park, and a free passport stamp which says the name of the park and the date visited. I collected 18 stamps during my trip, and I was excited about collecting one for Niagara Falls. But, alas, Niagara Falls is NOT a National Park.  I looked at my route and found the Theodore Roosevelt Inaugural National Historic Site is in Buffalo, close to Niagara Falls, so I’ll be stopping in Buffalo to see that site and collect my stamp!! Buffalo is New York State’s second largest city, so there is plenty to see there, but I doubt I’ll have much time to linger. Buffalo is also home to a Frank Lloyd Wright House, the Darwin Martin House Complex, which I hope to visit.

While trying to vary my walks in training to walk the Camino de Santiago in September, I decided on Monday, June 4 to visit Great Falls Park.  I could collect my National Park sticker and stamp and get a walk in at the same time.  You can see what Great Falls looks like normally in the pictures below: the first was taken in October of 2016 and the second in April 2018.

Great Falls, October 16, 2016
Great Falls, October 16, 2016
Great Falls, April 8, 2018
Great Falls, April 8, 2018

Here’s my “Passport to Your National Parks” and the George Washington Memorial Parkway stamp, of which Great Falls is a part.

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Passport to Your National Parks

On this June Monday, the falls were tumultuous and roaring. We’d had a lot of rain over the previous week and it covered most of the rocks that are normally visible. Churning in whirlpools were tree trunks and other detritus.  In the two pictures below, you can see Great Falls on April 8, 2018, compared with June 4, 2018.

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Great Falls, April 8, 2018

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Great Falls, June 4, 2018

I’m excited to explore Niagara Falls, comprised of three waterfalls that straddle the international border between the Canadian province of Ontario and the American state of New York: Horseshoe Falls, American Falls and Bridal Veil Falls.

********************

“THE CALL TO PLACE” INVITATION: I invite you to write a 500-700 word (or less) post on your own blog about what enticed you to choose a particular destination. If you don’t have a blog, I invite you to write in the comments.  If your destination is a place you love and keep returning to, feel free to write about that.  If you want to see the original post about the subject, you can check it out here: imaginings: the call to place.

Please include the link in the comments below by Wednesday, July 25 at 1:00 p.m. EST.  When I write my post in response to this challenge on Thursday, July 26, I’ll include your links in that post. If you’d like, you can use the hashtag #wanderessence.

My next post will be about my upcoming trip to Portugal after I finish walking the Camino de Santiago in northern Spain.

This will be an ongoing invitation, on the fourth Thursday of each month. Feel free to jump in at any time. 🙂

I hope you’ll join in our community. I look forward to reading your posts!

the ~ wander.essence ~ community

I invite you all to settle in and read a few posts from our wandering community.  I promise, you’ll be inspired!

  • Suzanne, of Being in Nature, wrote about her call to the gorgeous Hagia Sophia in Istabul.
    • In Hagia Sophia

Thanks to all of you who wrote posts about “the call to place.” 🙂

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  • American Road Trips
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chapter 1: on borrowed time {part 2}

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 June 26, 2018

Chapter 1, part 2 of my road trip novel. Part 1 is here: chapter 1: on borrowed time {part 1}

*West Virginia*

They crossed the West Virginia border at noon, and Mykaela asked Atsushi to look up the state symbols. He told her the state bird was the cardinal, the insect the Monarch butterfly, and the flower the rhododendron. Mykaela told him she loved the Monarchs with their gold and orange stained-glass wings framed in black and she once made a quilt full of them.  She couldn’t help but blurt out that West Virginia voted for Trump in the 2016 election and when she visited Fayetteville before the election, a man had been standing on a street corner with a sign that said, CLINTON – LOCK HER UP! Mykaela had yelled out the window at the man, telling him to go to fucking hell.

Atsushi didn’t bat an eye at her language, and she wondered if he even understood the curse words.

*Pennsylvania*

They weren’t in West Virginia long, less than an hour, before Mykaela pulled over to take a picture of the welcome sign: WELCOME TO PENNSYLVANIA: PURSUE YOUR HAPPINESS at close to 1:00. Atsushi looked on his phone and told her bird was the ruffed grouse, the flower was the Mountain laurel, the insect the Pennsylvania firefly.  “Another Trump-supporting state,” Mykaela said.  They passed through Masontown, Waynesburg, Mariana, Prosperity, Amity, Lone Pine. A town called, strangely enough, Laboratory.

A band called Hickory Wind sang “It’s a long, long road that leads to Denver, when you’re starting out in Virginia’s rolling hills.”

“This song is echoing our route — D.C. to Denver!” she said.

“I think it’s better when music tells our lives,” said Atsushi.  “It is convenient.”

Atsushi pointed to the median: “Look, another road kill!” This time the feathers of a dead turkey stuck up all askew. They passed Chrome Shop in Claysville, the Kruger Street Toy and Train Museum, Xtreme Cycle & ATV Store, and Gumby’s Cigarette and Beer World. Rough roads and potholes signaled they were about to cross into West Virginia again, and they passed through Bethlehem, Wheeling and Moundsville before escaping over the Ohio River twenty minutes later.

*Ohio*

When they passed the WELCOME TO OHIO sign, Atsushi had drifted off again.  He slept, mouth open, in the light of the sun coming through the windshield. Mykaela hesitated waking him up, but he’d told her he didn’t want to miss any border crossings, so she nudged him. He looked up the symbols and groggily announced that Ohio’s state bird was the cardinal, that it had two state flowers, one cultivated – the scarlet carnation – and the other a wildflower, the large white trillium. The state insect was the 7-spot ladybug. Mykaela told him this was yet another a Republican-leaning state, at least in the 2016 election. “You can thank this government, and dirty NRA money, for our lax gun laws,” she said.  “It’s why every idiot and mentally deranged person in the country can pack a weapon.”

Atsushi looked down at his lap, seemingly lost in thought.

In Ohio, they passed Cambridge, Columbus and then a long sprawl of suburbia with chains such as Red Lobster, Buffalo Wild Wings and Lowes. A flashing sign warned that alcohol deaths were 26: DRIVE SOBER.

As they drove through the boring Ohio landscape, Mykaela told Atsushi everything important except why she was really taking this journey. She was talkative in a way she couldn’t have been with someone of her own culture. She told him about the places they had lived when Emre worked as a Consular Officer. She told him of the adventure of living in such exotic places, and how they fell into a routine in each place, and of their daughters Lena and Viktoria, and how 23-year-old Lena was an assistant chef at a farm-to-table restaurant near Denver and how 20-year-old Viktoria was majoring in Kinesiology & Health Sciences at the College of William and Mary.

She told him about her love of textiles and quilting and making art quilts featuring landscapes and nature. She told how she fell in love with Turkish music when they lived in Istanbul. She told him about her father Hank, a retired pharmacist who lived in a nursing home an hour’s drive away in Winchester, Virginia, and how she visited him once a week on Saturdays. She told him Lena had attended the Culinary Institute of America and was a talented cook. She told him of Lena’s Border Terrier named Jasper, and how her eldest daughter was taking up white water rafting since she’d moved to Colorado a year ago. She told him that Viktoria hoped to become a physical therapist once she graduated.

They passed Flushing and the Egypt Valley Wildlife Area while Bruce Springsteen sang about “The Promised Land.” Mykaela wondered if Quakers actually lived in Quaker City.

Chris Isaak sang, “Don’t get so down on yourself. Tomorrow’s another day.” And Hank Snow sang, “I’ve Been Everywhere,” listing the places he’s been: Reno, Chicago, Fargo, Minnesota, Buffalo, Toronto, Winslow, Sarasota…

Another billboard warned DON’T WIMP OUT: BUCKLE UP. They passed Senecaville Lake and the Zane Grey Museum in Zanesville. Atsushi frowned as he stared at the median strip strewn with mangled deer along I-70. In Ohio, the hills became flatter and Mykaela became drowsy. She wished Atsushi could drive, but she didn’t trust him to stay on the right side of the road. Besides he had drifted off again. They passed Adamsville, the Pepsi Bottling Company and the Licking River.

Mykaela felt like she was getting in the groove of being out of Emre’s orbit. Her mind felt more clear, less encumbered. I like who I’m becoming, she thought. They drove past Pataskala, Etna, Pickerington, Columbus, Dayton, London, Plain City and Springfield.

The land flattened out more, and shiny silver silos reflected the late afternoon sunlight. HAY FOR SALE was written in sloppy red letters on a board leaning on a truck in Catawba. Tom Waits sang “Come on Up to the House” in his soulful raspy voice. They passed Urbania, Xenia, Freightliner, Kenworth, Huber Heights, the Great Miami River, and flat-butchered fields. Dead bugs were smashed all over the windshield and even after Mykaela stopped at a gas station and tried to wash them off, their ghostly spots remained smeared on the glass. Trucks sped by hauling yellow dump trucks and farm equipment. Grain elevators punctuated the landscape.

Another billboard: IF YOU DIE TONIGHT? HEAVEN OR HELL?

I’m probably going straight to hell, Mykaela thought.

Atsushi said, “I believe we have no heaven or hell in Japan.”

*Indiana*

They left Ohio at 6:00 and crossed into Indiana. WELCOME TO INDIANA: CROSSROADS OF AMERICA. LINCOLN’S BOYHOOD HOME.  Atsushi read from his phone: “The bird: the cardinal. Flower: peony.  Insect: Say’s Firefly.”

“And, yet another red state,” said Mykaela.

“What does it mean, red state?” Atsushi asked.

“The voters in that state mostly vote Republican, more conservative. In blue states, they mostly vote Democrat, more liberal. But before the 2000 election, the colors used to be reversed. We can thank all these red states for our current predicament.”

“In China, red is communist. More left.  I suppose your system is confused.”

Mykaela smiled.  Yes, it is confused all right. She told him how she was against war or any kind of violence; she equally hated the NRA, and had attended the “March for Our Lives” protest at the end of March, organized by the students from Marjory Stoneman Douglas High School in Parkland, Florida, where seventeen students were gunned down by an unhinged ex-student.

“I cannot wait for meeting with police in Colorado to find about Jiro details,” Atsushi said. He suddenly got quiet, and stared out the window.

“I’m so sorry about your son, Atsushi.  No one should have to lose a child.” She wanted to reach over and touch his shoulder, but she didn’t feel comfortable knowing how proper the Japanese were.

“I don’t see how it’s possible to be the person you were after your child is gone,” he said. “I feel I need to make some empty space in my brain.”

More billboards whizzed past: SHELTON FIREWORKS, ANTIQUE MALL. WARM GLO CANDLE CO. STORE. Finally, they pulled in for the night at the Red Roof Inn in Richmond, Indiana. The place looked like it was under construction, and not in a nice way. The building was derelict with tractor-trailers in the parking lot and shady characters – tough tattooed men and rough fellows – standing outside smoking cigarettes. Mykaela was trying to save money on her trip and had booked the hotel thinking it couldn’t be but so bad. She was glad to have Atsushi along with her, although of course they took separate rooms. After they checked in, she asked if he’d like to go to a restaurant the receptionist recommended, Clara’s Pizza King, for dinner, after taking a half-hour to freshen up.

At Clara’s Pizza King, they sat in a booth and perused the menu. A old-fashioned phone in the booth said CLARA’S DING-A-LING: YOUR PERSONAL TELEPHONE. ORDER – MAKE REQUESTS – COMPLAIN – COMPLIMENT – JUST SAY HELLO. PLACE ORDER WITH OPERATOR.

Atsushi picked up the phone and said, “Konnichiwa.” And then started speaking in rapid-fire Japanese. He hung up the phone. Mykaela burst out laughing and Atsushi, who hadn’t laughed once during their long day of driving, laughed along with her. Then Mykaela picked up the phone and ordered Sangria and a large pizza with mushrooms and black olives. They sat and talked over the lively “Despacito,” which blared over the sound system. Tiffany lamps cast wavering light and shadows. Children roughhoused on seats in a giant red double-decker bus parked in the middle of the dining room.  It said CLARA’S TRANSPORT CO. and on the top deck of the bus were paintings of grandmothers, babies, and a man reading a newspaper. A poster on the side of the bus said “TRAVEL UNDERGROUND INTO THE HEART OF THE SHOPPING CENTRES.”

“What does that mean anyway?” she asked Atsushi.

“Sounds like Tokyo,” he said, referring, she guessed, to the huge underground food courts in Tokyo’s department stores.

They shared the pizza and cheered each other with Sangria to celebrate day one of their road trip completed.

That first evening in their separate rooms in the Red Roof Inn, Mykaela realized how much she wanted her life to be what she told Atsushi it was. It was as if she’d described the sunshine but not the rain. She didn’t tell Atsushi that her mother, Naomi, had left her father as soon as his health declined and took off to live the life of a spiritualist and yoga instructor in Crestone, Colorado and was now living with an organic farmer half her age.

And this wasn’t even the true heart of the “rain tales” she avoided telling Atsushi. Emre, 16 years Mykaela’s senior, had been married before and had one daughter, Szonja, who had become addicted to heroin and had committed suicide in 2009, only a year after Emre had retired and they’d moved to the U.S., sending him spiraling into a depression so deep and so severe he rarely left the house or even spoke to her any more. Emre had had a vasectomy years before he’d met Mykaela, soon after he’d had Szonja, so Mykaela and Emre needed to use a sperm donor to get pregnant. Emre had barely agreed to go along with Mykaela’s desire to have children, and he’d been bitter for many years that he’d relented.  Eventually, he grew to love the girls, but he always seemed somewhat disconnected.

And then there was Lena, who struggled with bipolar disorder.  Doctors couldn’t seem to get her medication right, and she still suffered terrible mood swings. She was a brilliant and creative chef but had lost several jobs when she’d failed to show up for work during depressive episodes. And Viktoria, an excellent student at William and Mary, seemed to make bad decisions about boys and had broken up with an abusive boyfriend only to have him continue to stalk her. She had gotten a restraining order against him, but that hadn’t stopped him from making menacing appearances in Viktoria’s orbit.

Mykaela drifted off but it wasn’t a peaceful sleep. She dreamed about a house with infinite rooms, and confusing doors, a swimming pool in the dining room that was boiling with ocean waves.  She tossed and turned on a bed of rocks and when she opened her mouth to speak, broken glass spilled out.

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phone in booth at Clara’s Pizza King

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bus in the dining area of Clara’s Pizza King

**********************

“PROSE” INVITATION: I invite you to write up to a 2,000-word post on your own blog about a recently visited particular destination (not journeys in general). Concentrate on any intention you set for your prose.  In this case, my intentions for my Four Corners trip included the following:

  • “Bring a character to…” Invent characters and take them along on the journey, keeping a journal from the main character’s point of view. After the trip, write a novel or novella of the trip putting those characters into the tale (in the vein of Jim Harrison’s The English Major, and inspired by a creative writing assignment to keep a journal for a fictional character).
  • Pick random titles from poems or short stories as titles for each chapter and let those titles inform the tale.

It doesn’t matter whether you write fiction or non-fiction for this invitation.  You can either set your own writing intentions, or use one of the prompts I’ve listed on this page: writing prompts: prose & poetry.  (This page is a work in process.) You can also include photos, of course.

Include the link in the comments below by Monday, July 9 at 1:00 p.m. EST.  When I write my post in response to this invitation on Tuesday, July 10, I’ll include your links in that post.

This will be an ongoing invitation. Feel free to jump in at any time. 🙂

I hope you’ll join in our community. I look forward to reading your posts!

the ~ wander.essence ~ community

I invite you all to settle in and read a few posts from our wandering community.  I promise, you’ll be inspired!

  • Jude, of Travel Words, wrote a poetic piece about the countryside of Northumberland and the Pennine landscape using wonderfully descriptive language.
    • Countryside of Contrasts

Thanks to all of you who wrote prosaic posts following intentions you set for yourself.  🙂

 

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  • Cape May
  • Czech Republic
  • Esztergom

#roofsquares – #1 & only

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 June 24, 2018
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temple in Bagan, Myanmar 2015

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sod roof in Iceland 2016

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Kamakura, Japan – July, 2017

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Narita, Japan – August, 2017

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Esztergom, Hungary 2017

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Český Krumlov, Czech Republic 2017

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Cape May, New Jersey 2017

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Wildwood, NJ 2017

***********************

On Sundays, I plan to post various walks while training for the Camino de Santiago; I may post as well on other unrelated subjects or to participate in any challenges that catch my fancy.  In other words, I’ll just leave it open to anything!

This post is in response to Becky’s #RoofSquares challenge.

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  • American books
  • American Road Trips
  • Anticipation

anticipation & preparation: buffalo & niagara falls

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 June 22, 2018

As it took a lot of time and energy to plan my trip to the Four Corners, I didn’t start planning my trip to Buffalo, New York and Niagara Falls until I returned home at the end of May.  My plans include crossing the border into Canada, and staying two nights in Niagara Falls, Ontario.  On one of those days, I’ll meet a dear friend of mine I knew in Oman who now lives less than two hours away in Waterloo, Ontario.

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Journal, books, map & guidebook

Leaving home on June 25, I’ll drive seven hours in a northwesterly direction, arriving in Buffalo that same afternoon.

I started planning by looking through the guidebook, Moon Niagara Falls. This guidebook includes sites on the Canadian and U.S. Sides, as well as information on Buffalo and Niagara-on-the-Lake.

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accoutrements of travel

Here’s my itinerary so far:

  • Monday, June 25: Arrive in Buffalo. Explore Allentown and Elmwood Village.
  • Tuesday, June 26: Buffalo – Theodore Roosevelt Inaugural Site Tour 9:30-10:30.  Martin House Tour 11:30-12:30.
    • Depart for Niagara Falls, New York: Niagara Falls State Park (Observation Tower & Prospect Point) and Little Italy.
  • Wednesday, June 27: Continue exploring Niagara Falls State Park (Goat Island, Luna Island, Cave of the Winds, Terrapin Point, Three Sisters Island).
    • Drive to the Canadian side of Niagara Falls: Table Rock Welcome Center and Brink of Horseshoe Falls, Skylon Tower.
  • Thursday, June 28: Hornblower Niagara Cruises (8:30 a.m.).
    • Meet Mona Lisa 11:00-4:00.  Parkway North: White Water Walk, The Whirlpool, Lunch. Butterfly Conservatory.
    • Lundy’s Lane. Walk some more around the Falls.
  • Friday, June 30: Drive up to Niagara-on-the-Lake. Walk around the town.  Drive home.

I’m in the middle of reading a novel set at Niagara Falls; it’s quite a hefty one at 512 pages: The Falls by Joyce Carol Oates. The story begins with a man committing suicide by throwing himself into The Falls after a disastrous honeymoon night.  Most of the book takes place in the aftermath of this suicide.  I’m only on page 250; it’s doubtful I’ll be finished before I go, but I’ll certainly take it along.

Of course, I had to make a playlist for the road trip: Niagara Falls and Buffalo Road Trip.

Here are my intentions for this trip.

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Intentions for Buffalo and Niagara Falls

************************

“ANTICIPATION & PREPARATION” INVITATION: I invite you to write a 750-word (or less) post on your own blog about anticipation & preparation for a particular destination (not journeys in general). If you don’t have a blog, I invite you to write in the comments. Include the link in the comments below by Thursday, July 26 at 1:00 p.m. EST.  When I write my post in response to this challenge on Friday, July 27, I’ll include your links in that post. My next post will be about preparing to walk the Frances route of the Camino de Santiago.

This will be an ongoing invitation, on the 4th Friday of each month. Feel free to jump in at any time. 🙂  If you’d like to read more about the topic, see: journeys: anticipation & preparation.

I hope you’ll join in our community. I look forward to reading your posts!

the ~ wander.essence ~ community

I invite you all to settle in and read posts from our wandering community. I promise, you’ll be inspired!

  • Jo, of Restless Jo, wrote about her anticipation and angst as she prepared for her trip to Poland to visit her Polish family, followed by a planned trip to visit her daughter in Nottingham days after her return from Poland.
    • Anticipation and angst
  • Debbie, of Everyday Delights, has written about her upcoming trip to New Zealand, where she’ll experience volcanic action, an amazing train ride, the Mouri people, the Southern Alps and Middle Earth.
    • Anticipating: New Zealand
  • Pit, of Pit’s Fritztown News, wrote about planning and preparation for his southeastern road trip.  He and his wife Mary have a goal to visit states other than Texas by car and take their bicycles to ride rail and other trails. Their aim is to eventually ride 10 miles at least in each state.
    • RailsTrailsRoadTrip 2018 – Planning
    • RailsTrailsRoadTrip 2018 – Preparations

Thanks to all of you who wrote posts about anticipation and preparation. 🙂

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  • American Road Trips
  • Colorado
  • Four Corners Road Trip

the pinyon-juniper woodland of colorado national monument

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 June 21, 2018

The mesa tops of Colorado National Monument are covered in a high desert woodland of pinyon pine and Utah juniper.  This pinyon-juniper woodland extends over cliffs and into canyons.

I found myself fascinated especially by the Utah junipers, dead or alive. The dominant tree in this environment, it conserves water with its scaly leaves and waxy, bluish-gray berries.  Many of the twisted, gnarled junipers here are over 800 years old, or dead.

The pinyon pine thrives at higher elevations and has short paired needles and round woody cones.  The tree spends a significant amount of energy producing its nutrient-rich seeds, better known as pine nuts.  Ute women harvested pine nuts using long harvesting poles and cone-chaped burden baskets. Providing up to 3,000 calories per pound, these were a vital food source in winter.

Both trees survive on a meager 10″ of annual precipitation.

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Utah juniper berries

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Pinyon-juniper woodland on the mesa top and down into the canyon – Canyon Rim Trail

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Utah junipers

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dead Utah junipers

 

 

pinyon pine
pinyon pine
Utah juniper
Utah juniper
juniper forest
juniper forest
junipers
junipers
pinyon pine
pinyon pine
pinyon-juniper wasteland
pinyon-juniper wasteland

The pinyon-juniper woodland provides some of the only greenery in this harsh environment.

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gnarled and twisted junipers

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woodland on the mesa

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pinyons and junipers

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pinyon pine

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Pinyon-juniper covered overlook near Grand View

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junipers & pinyon pines

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pinyon pine

The Saddlehorn Visitor Center has some great displays about the pinyon-juniper forest.

Utah juniper
Utah juniper
pinyon pine
pinyon pine

*********************

“PHOTOGRAPHY” INVITATION:  I invite you to create a photography intention and then create a blog post for a place you have visited. Alternately, you can post a thematic post about a place, photos of whatever you discovered that set your heart afire. You can also do a thematic post of something you have found throughout all your travels: churches, doors, people reading, people hiking, mountains, patterns, all black & white, whatever!

You probably have your own ideas about this, but in case you’d like some ideas, you can visit my page: photography inspiration.

I challenge you to post no more than 20 photos (fewer is better) and to write less than 350-400 words about any travel-related photography intention you set for yourself. Include the link in the comments below by Wednesday, July 4 at 1:00 p.m. EST.  When I write my post in response to this challenge on Thursday, July 5, I’ll include your links in that post.

This will be an ongoing invitation, every first and third Thursday of each month. Feel free to jump in at any time. 🙂

I hope you’ll join in our community. I look forward to reading your posts!

the ~ wander.essence ~ community

I invite you all to settle in and read a few posts from our wandering community.  I promise, you’ll be inspired!

  • Ulli, of TRANSMUTATION, wrote a beautiful post featuring urban and natural scenes around Berlin.
    • PATHS TO WILD BERLIN
  • Pauline, of Living in Paradise…, wrote about her happy place on a Sunday afternoon beach walk.
    • Happiness is….

Thanks to all of you who shared posts on the “photography” invitation. 🙂

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  • American Road Trips
  • Fiction
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(on journey) chapter 1: on borrowed time {part 1}

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 June 20, 2018

It used to be Mykaela and Emre, gallivanting around the world wherever Emre’s job as Consular Officer in the Hungarian Ministry of Foreign Affairs took them – Budapest, Ankara, Tokyo, Yangon, Barcelona, Addis Ababa. Now, Mykaela, after nearly 27 years of marriage, found herself setting out on a road trip from Virginia to the Four Corners area with a Japanese man she barely knew except through a brief exchange on a Tokyo train and an ensuing email correspondence.

*Maryland*

After passing a pink silo with black polka dots at Lucketts along Route 15, they crossed the Potomac River over a blue low-slung bridge at Point of Rocks, Maryland. Mykaela was leaving behind Virginia, and her husband. Not permanently, she told herself, not yet anyway.

Emre, sunk in a deep depression from which he had no will to extricate himself, refused to leave their house in Leesburg, Virginia, where they’d lived for the last ten years.  After seventeen years living abroad, they’d returned to northern Virginia in 2008 so Mykaela could look after her father, who was suffering from early stages of Parkinson’s disease in a nursing home in Winchester.

As they crossed the bridge, Moby sang, from Mykaela’s Spotify playlist, “In this darkness, please light my way.” She thought how strange it was that song lyrics often wafted into her life as outer reflections of her inner turmoil.

Her traveling companion, Atsushi, was dressed impeccably for this road trip to the Four Corners area, while she had thrown on the most comfortable stretchy pants and shirt she could find for today’s nine-hour drive to Indiana. It seemed he’d be uncomfortable in those neatly pressed chinos and polo shirt, but who was she to criticize? No matter what, she would seek to understand. After all, he’d lost his son Jiro last May in Grand Junction, Colorado.   In what was an apparent hate crime, he had been shot and killed and his body shipped back to Tokyo. His parents had never seen the scene of the crime and hadn’t even had the chance to visit him at Colorado Mesa University where Jiro was attending school, although they had planned to visit the following fall.

When Atsushi found out by email that Mykaela was going to the Four Corners area to visit her daughter and her mother and to seek inspiration for her quilt art, Atsushi had asked if he could accompany her so he could visit Grand Junction, see the scene of the crime, and try to understand the gun culture in America. He practically begged her, as he didn’t feel confident enough to drive on the right side in America.  His wife Chiaki couldn’t accompany him because of her office job with a construction company in Tokyo. In her attempt to escape her overwhelming grief, she was immersing herself in long hours at work. Besides, she was afraid to come to a country where gun-toting outlaws seemed to roam the streets. Atsushi told Mykaela that Chiaki was rarely home anymore, spending long hours either in the office or out with her women friends, eating elaborate meals and drinking too much sake. She had become obese, Atsushi said, with what Mykaela thought was baffled disappointment.

As they drove through Maryland, lavender redbuds lined the roadway.  Daffodils greeted them at the South Mountain Welcome Center. Mykaela got out at the rest stop to use the bathroom, while Atsushi sat in the car, studying the map. She was embarrassed that this was her second bathroom stop already in only two hours. Coffee always seemed to run right through her in the mornings.

Mykaela felt like they were alighting across the country inside a cozy cocoon. Driving her weathered pine green 1995 Jeep Cherokee, still dependable after all these years, she felt like a rough-and-tumble adventurer.  She looked forward to taking the jeep off-road in New Mexico and Arizona.

Atsushi seemed mesmerized by the white barns and rolling hills of western Maryland. Mykaela sought to distract Atsushi from his grief by asking him to look up the state symbols on his phone as they crossed borders. She asked him to find the bird, flower and insect of Maryland. After searching on his phone, Atsushi read aloud that the flower was the black-eyed Susan, the bird the Baltimore oriole, and the insect the Baltimore checkerspot butterfly.  Mykaela said there had been a period when she was obsessed with butterfly, bird and flower motifs in her elaborate quilts. Part of her obsession came about after she’d seen the movie Georgia O’Keefe and then had studied and tried to emulate the artist’s evocative flower paintings.

“I’d love to be at a dinner party with either Georgia O’Keefe or someone like Mabel Dodge Luhan,” she told her traveling companion. “She was an art patron who appointed herself the ‘savior of humanity.’ She let artists live in her sprawling Taos, New Mexico lodgings, people like Ansel Adams, O’Keefe, Willa Cather, but then I don’t suppose you know of them.”

“Yes, I know Ansel Adams. He’s the black & white photographer, yes?”

“You know him? Well, he’s not black and white, but many of his photos are.”

Atsushi looked baffled. Mykaela smiled.

“If you could choose anyone in the world, who would you choose as a dinner guest?”

He didn’t hesitate. “John Denver. Besides my favorite songwriter and singer, he also made friendship between East and West. He was photographer too.”

They drove over the Conococheague Creek, a tributary of the Potomac, translated from the Delaware Indian term meaning “many-turns-river.” She spelled it out for Atsushi to write down and challenged him to pronounce it. His English wasn’t bad at all, as he’d learned how to sound out syllables, although sometimes he got the verb sounds wrong.

Often they were quiet on the drive, looking out the window at the stubbled fields and place names: Whitetail Ski Resort, Clear Spring, Indian Springs, Big Pool. Connie Britton from the Nashville TV series cast sang, “Pour Me Something Stronger than Me,” and Mykaela thought that if only she weren’t driving, she’d like a drink, just so she could relax more around Atsushi.

When Emre had served his term as Hungarian consular officer in Tokyo from 2000-2002, Mykaela had fallen in love with Japan and with Asian fabrics. She’d bonded with several Japanese women who also loved textiles. She had gone back to Tokyo to visit her friends in 2016, and they had perused yukata stores, buying the summer cotton kimonos to cut up and use for quilts. One day she’d met her friends in Yokohama, and they’d spent the day shopping for fabrics and eating conveyor belt sushi.

After parting ways with them, she had taken the train back to Sakuragicho Station, where she had to change to the JR Yokohama green line.  She wasn’t positive she was on the right train when she got on, so she asked a short balding man sitting directly across from her: “Machida?”  He introduced himself as Atsushi. He spoke decent English. He asked her where she was from and what she was doing in Japan.  Since he was speaking to her across the train, he asked if he could sit beside her. He was dressed in proper business attire: white shirt, tie, black suit; he informed her he had spent the day at the National Convention Hall at a medical products convention.  He was in sales — medical imaging technology — and told Mykaela about technologies for curing cancer such as cryo-ablation — freezing of tumors — and RFA — Radio Frequency Ablation, or burning of tumors.  He said both treatments resulted in the tumor dissolving, due to a person’s normal body temperature combined with the treatment.  Mykaela wondered why this technology wasn’t saving people’s lives already and why she had never heard of it.

They talked the entire time back to Machida, about all kinds of things, including his love for John Denver.  He told her as they neared her stop, with exasperation but humor, that talking to her all that time had exhausted him; he wasn’t used to thinking and speaking so much in English. To Mykaela, he seemed quite natural at it, but she remembered how much she’d had to concentrate to follow even the simplest conversations while living with Emre in his posts around the world.  Atsushi said he had clients all over the world from Western and Asian countries, so he was actually used to speaking English, although it still required great concentration.

At one point during the train ride, Atsushi had asked Mykaela for her email address. When she got up to get off the train, he said that the 1-hour train ride back from Yokohama seemed much shorter because of their conversation. She had thought the email exchange might lead to an invitation to his house to meet his family, or to a lunch or dinner meeting, since she’d told him she’d be in the country for two more weeks. But then he said something that annoyed her, “Welcome anytime to Japan. Please contact me if you return.”

She got off the train and grabbed a bite to eat at a basement restaurant that served sushi and yakatori, accompanied by sake and beer. She had never heard from him again during her stay in Japan, but about six months later, he started writing to her by email in his slightly broken English. Sometimes she could tell he used Google translate as the Japanese was written above with the English translation, somewhat disjointed, below.

Mykaela asked Atsushi to get her a pink grapefruit Perrier out of the cooler, and she sipped it as they listened to “An Outlaw State of Mind” while rolling past a runaway truck ramp. Later, as they drove through Allegheny County, the Eagles sang, “Take it Easy,” and she was surprised to hear Atsushi sing along, “Don’t let the sound of your own wheels drive you crazy.” He was a good singer, but that shouldn’t have surprised her as he’d told her on that long-ago train ride that he used to be in a band, called Naname No, which translated, maybe poorly, to “Oblique.”

They passed through Flintstone and some roadkill in the median strip – a mangled deer, a racoon with its dead eyes staring out from black rings. Mountainsides had been cut or blasted away and a herd of black cows grazed in a green hollow. Mykaela’s ears clogged with the change in elevation and she held her nose and puffed out her cheeks to ease the pressure in her ears.

Orange flags signaled roadwork as they drove through Cumberland. Two lanes merged to one and the traffic slowed. Mykaela looked out over all the church spires in Cumberland as they slowly crawled past the town on the highway.

“An old college roommate of mine lives in Cumberland. She became a psychologist,” Mykaela said. “I lived with her for a while and she was always analyzing me. I found it so annoying. We haven’t spoken in years.”

“What if we dropped in to her?” Atsushi asked. “You could connect again. I think always good to keep lines open.”

“I don’t think so,” said Mykaela, who thought he had some nerve suggesting such a thing when he was estranged from his own daughter.  In their emails, Atsushi had revealed to Mykaela that he had stopped speaking to his 24-year-old daughter Sayuri because she had moved in with a lanky blonde English teacher from Canada without marrying him. Atsushi had never met the young man but had seen them at Shibuya Crossing one day holding hands.

Mykaela wondered why she and Lilly had dropped out of each other’s orbit. She remembered when all the boys in college thought Lilly so sexy and wild because she often got drunk and danced on bar tables. She was quite exotic, being half Korean, even though she was big-boned.

After the closed lanes opened up, they passed Haystack Mountain and a wind farm on a ridge past Frostburg. A billboard advertised GOD’S ARK OF SAFETY CHURCH. The end of a white barn painted with a four-square quilt pattern of topsy-turvy pine trees caught Mykaela’s eye, and she thought of her own quilting practice and her grandmother who taught her to sew and instilled in her a love of sewing and of textiles in general. She was happiest as a child in the company of her grandmother as her own mother was too self-involved in either her crystals or strange spiritual practices.

As they passed Big Savage Mountain, they crossed over the Eastern Continental Divide at an elevation of 2610 feet. Mykaela explained this marked the watershed to the Atlantic Seaboard. Atsushi at first didn’t understand the word but Mykaela explained that melted snow or rain either flowed down from this high point east into the Atlantic Ocean or west into the Gulf of Mexico. Water from both sides of this divide eventually ended up in the Atlantic.  She said later, in Colorado, they’d cross the Great Divide, where, on the far side, water flowed to the west into the Pacific.

More names passed outside the window: Meadow Mountain, Grantsville, Friendsville, and Deep Creek Lake. Rusty vehicles lay strewn all atumble at a hillside junkyard.

Dan Seals sang “God must be a cowboy at heart. He made wide open spaces from the start” as they passed Pig’s Ear Road. Atsushi didn’t know the song, but kept pressing replay to get the words. When John Denver started singing “Rocky Mountain High,” he sang along, serenading either his absent wife, or some long lost love. Maybe he was even serenading Mykaela.

She had never cared for John Denver, but listening to Atsushi sing the lyrics, they felt them take root in her: “Coming home to a place he’d never been before / He left yesterday behind him / You might say he was born again.”

She wondered if she might be born again if she left yesterday behind her.  She knew she was on borrowed time, at least until she had a clear sign indicating what she should do with the rest of her life.

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western Maryland

*****************

This post is the beginning of a novel I intend to write that is set on a road trip to the Four Corners area. It will likely take me a good year to write this novel at a pace of three pages each weekday. I’ll post the first two rough chapters, broken up into two parts each (four posts in total) on my blog.  After that, I’ll continue the novel on my own with hopes of either publishing or self-publishing it.

This is the first draft of what will be many drafts.  I’m not satisfied with it and will revise it endlessly, but for now I made a deadline, so here it is!  I was inspired to write this after reading Jim Harrison’s fictional road trip novel, The English Major. The setting in my novel will be set in the places of my actual journey, but the characters and the plot are fictional.

Part 2 of Chapter 1 will post on Tuesday, June 26.

I’ve been intrigued by the idea of writing fiction set in travel destinations for some time, as well as the idea of “Bringing a character to …”

“ON JOURNEY” INVITATION: I invite you to write a post on your own blog about the journey itself for a recently visited specific destination. If you don’t have a blog, I invite you to write in the comments. Include the link in the comments below by Tuesday, July 17 at 1:00 p.m. EST.  When I write my post in response to this challenge on Wednesday, July 18, I’ll include your links in that post. My next post will be the first half of Chapter 2 of my fictional road trip.

This will be an ongoing invitation, once on the third Wednesday of each month. Feel free to jump in at any time. 🙂

I hope you’ll join in our community. I look forward to reading your posts!

the ~ wander.essence ~ community

I invite you all to settle in and read a few posts from our wandering community.  I promise, you’ll be inspired!

  • Suzanne, of Global Housesitter x2, wrote about a road trip through Yorkshire, through Robin Hood’s stomping ground to places named for monstrous beasts.
    • Surrey to Nth Yorkshire Pt 1
  • Jude, of Travel Words, wrote about her trip to Key West, stopping to see the African Queen along the way, and finding Hemingway’s house, “Shotgun” houses, and buskers in Key West’s square.
    • postcard from america
  • Pit, of Pit’s Fritztown News, wrote of “gettin’ them doggies rolling” on the first day of a very warm road trip.
    • RailTrailsRoadTrip 2018 – Day One

Many thanks to all of you who wrote posts about the journey. I’m inspired by all of you!

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  • American Road Trips
  • Colorado
  • Colorado National Monument

a hike above wedding canyon at colorado national monument

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 June 17, 2018

Entering Colorado National Monument, we curl our way up a winding road to the top of the 2,000-foot plateau, stopping at Redlands Overlook to check out the Grand Valley.  Rocks on this northeast side of the park were displaced by the Redlands Fault some 70-40 million years ago, and later, flowing water eroded thousands of feet of rock that once rose above today’s monument and valley.  Small earthquakes are still common today.

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Redlands View

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climbing ever upward

We stop to check out the Historic Trails View.  Back in the day, ranchers herded cattle along a narrow driveway carved into the opposite canyon wall, from valley to mesa top.

Historic Trails View
Historic Trails View
Historic Trails View
Historic Trails View

We glimpse our first frosty blue berries of the Utah juniper in the pinyon-juniper forest at the Historic Trails View.  We wander among curly-cup gumweed, pale evening primrose, creamtips and rubber rabbitbrush — all somehow taking root among the red and orange rocks. The fragrance of sage wafts through the dry air.

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Utah Juniper

From the Fruita Canyon View we can see the fruit-growing Fruita region in the Grand Valley, as well as the road on which we came up. Opposite the valley, the Book Cliffs appear along the southern and western edge of the Tavaputs Plateau.

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Fruita Canyon View

After visiting the Saddlehorn Visitor Center, we hike along the Canyon Rim Trail on ledges of Kayenta Sandstone; this trail hooks up with the Window Rock Trail.  Atop the rim, we get our first glimpse of Wedding and Monument Canyons, with their pinyon-juniper forests and monoliths with names such as Praying Hands, Pipe Organ, Kissing Couple and Independence Monument.

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Canyon Rim Trail

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Mike on the Canyon Rim Trail

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Wedding Canyon

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Close up of formations

We even find some little lizard friends.

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A lizard friend

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Mike on the Canyon Rim Trail

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Me on the Canyon Rim Trail

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Wedding Canyon

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Book Cliffs View

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dead Utah junipers and other flora

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Wedding Canyon

Window Rock is a hole carved out of a crack in a stone wall by thousands of years of relentless erosion.

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Window Rock

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gnarled junipers on the Canyon Rim Trail

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Wedding Canyon

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Wedding Canyon

John Otto is known for his endless quest for national recognition for the ancient canyons and monoliths of his adopted home. He organized fundraising campaigns, collected signatures for petitions, and wrote newspaper editorials and endless letters to Washington politicians.

On June 20, 1911, John Otto married Boston artist Beatrice Farnham in Wedding Canyon at the base of Independence Monument. The canyon gets its name from this ill-fated marriage ceremony. According to the National Park Service:

Unfortunately, John and Beatrice’s marriage was short-lived. Beatrice found the reality of John’s life to be far from her romantic ideal. A few weeks after the wedding, she left, never to return.

“I tried hard to live his way, but I could not do it, I could not live with a man to whom even a cabin was an encumbrance.” Beatrice Farnham Otto

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John Otto

It was at Colorado National Monument that I first learned of the Passport to Your National Parks.  I promptly bought the passport book and my first sticker for the monument.  Then I put the stamp in my book.  Even though I’d been to this park in 1979, that visit will go unrecorded.  Now I’ve become addicted to these stickers & stamps.

Passport to Your National Parks
Passport to Your National Parks
My sticker and stamp for Colorado National Monument
My sticker and stamp for Colorado National Monument

Although this particular hike was only 1.84 miles and took 1:01:37 hours, we did a number of hikes in this park totaling 18,913 steps, or 8.01 miles.  I’ll write about some of our other hikes in upcoming posts. 🙂

** Monday, May 7, 2018 **

***********************

On Sundays, I plan to post various walks that I took on our Four Corners trip as well as hikes I take locally while training for the Camino de Santiago; I may also post on other unrelated subjects. I will use these posts to participate in Jo’s Monday Walks or any other challenges that catch my fancy.

This post is in response to Jo’s Monday Walk: An Adventure with Gilly.

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  • American Road Trips
  • Four Corners Road Trip
  • Photography

glimpses of wildlife in the four corners

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 June 13, 2018

We didn’t see as much wildlife as we would have liked during our trip to the Four Corners, but we did see an owl in Red Rocks, lots of lizards, and dinosaur tracks. We also saw free range cattle and horses, fake dinosaurs along the old Route 66, as well as wildlife warning signs.

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an owl with its nest at Red Rocks, CO

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a lizard at Colorado National Monument

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dinosaur tracks near Tuba City, AZ

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a donkey at La Posada in Winslow, AZ

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dinosaurs in Holbrook, AZ

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a horse along the road in AZ

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a cow along a 20-mile dirt road to Chaco Canyon, NM

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wildlife sign near Chaco Canyon, NM

***********************

Every so often, whenever the urge hits, I’ll join in any challenges that catch my fancy.

This post is in response to Ingrid’s Wandering Wednesday wildlife prompt. 🙂

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  • American Road Trips
  • Fiction
  • International Travel

imperfect lives

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 June 12, 2018

Once a month, like a dutiful sister, Tania visited Karmen at her cluttered apartment above a boarded-up lighting store in Pittsburgh’s West End Village. She found her sister sunk into the living room sofa watching Home Shopping Network with a glass of straight bourbon on the table beside her.  The smell of dust, yellowed newspapers and dried flowers was suffocating, and the weight of all that accumulated stuff seemed to diminish the already wispy Karmen.  Tania worried her older sister would eventually be squashed under the burden of daily life.

Karmen, wearing a gray sweatshirt that said BEST. AUNT. EVER. muttered a half-hearted hello and mentioned that Luka had called to see if he could stay with her. Of course, she had no space amidst the piles of magazines, stuffed animals, yard ornaments, tattered romance novels, and unopened bills to put anyone up. “Why is he looking for a place to stay?”

“Because his apartment lease ran its course. He never paid a freaking cent on it. You know, I had to pay his rent all six months since I foolishly co-signed. I refused to extend the lease, even if meant he’d be homeless.” She sighed. “He’s never given up his dislike for work.”

“Who likes work? Nobody, that’s who,” said Tania’s sister.

Karmen, once a copywriter for the Pittsburgh Post-Gazette, had lost her job two years back for coming to work drunk. She had such a gift with words, Tania had believed her sister would become a top reporter, but she’d never put forth the effort to advance in her career. And then, after she was discarded by Gerald, her married lover of eight years, her drinking and hoarding expanded to unmanageable proportions.

Once she was fired, she took on a job digging up and moving plants at Phipps Conservatory. She had managed to hold on to the job, but Tania had no idea how she kept her drinking a secret.

Tania sat amidst the disorder and listened to Karmen marvel about the Dale Chihuly glass sculptures at the Phipps, and the new Cuba exhibit and the desert room, which Karmen liked for its prickly residents.

“What else did Luka say?” Tania feigned nonchalance.

“He was gonna get on a plane to Costa Rica. He wants to connect with the land.”

Tania didn’t even want to imagine where her twenty-year-old son got money for a plane ticket. His leaving the country partially explained the boxes Luka had left in Tania’s Washington garage in the middle of last Wednesday night while she was asleep. “What did you tell him?”

“That it was a great idea.”

Karmen was as disconnected from reality as Luka. Tania had tried to give Luka every opportunity in life, but he refused to do anything she suggested, including going to college. He wanted to start his own business designing edible landscapes but had abandoned the project when business didn’t materialize as he had hoped. Full of get-rich-quick schemes and idealism, he didn’t have the patience to wait for things to develop like most things did in life, in a methodical fashion.

She told Karmen she was going to have to cut back her visits because the Postal Museum, where she worked in Washington, wanted her to work more weekend hours. Her two days off per week would now be Tuesdays and Fridays, making it impossible to make the four-hour drive to Pittsburgh. She actually had no change in her schedule but thought she’d like to spend time lingering over her stamp collection and doing yoga instead of focusing her energies on people who didn’t want to be fixed. She felt guilty lying, but she knew she needed to detach from her sister.

Later in the afternoon, Tania made her escape by telling Karmen she had plans to meet her old college gang from University of Pittsburgh for dinner. She left $200 on her sister’s kitchen counter on the way out the door, swearing to herself it would be the last money she’d give her sister. As she drove through the Fort Pitt Tunnel toward the city, she thought of the movie, Perks of Being a Wallflower, where Charlie’s friend Sam stands up through the sunroof of the car. Though Tania would love to let loose in such a wild way, she knew she could never be so carefree.

She was careful and caring, at least that how she thought of herself. After all, she was surrounded by alcoholics and addicts of one kind or another, from her sister to her son. She had always appointed herself to take care of them, but lately she’d been attending Al-Anon meetings, for families of alcoholics, and had learned that her helpful fixing wasn’t beneficial to them, or to her.

She parked her Chevy Volt near the University of Pittsburgh and wandered with nostalgia through “Cathy,” the Cathedral of Learning. She dropped into her favorite of the Nationality Rooms, the Yugoslav Room, where once she had fallen in love with Art History and with her professor Grady, who eventually became her husband and Luka’s father. Luckily no classes were being held in the room, and she sat in one of the student chairs and ran her fingers along the inside edge of the hand-carved Slavonic heart on the chair-back in front of her. It was smooth from nearly 80 years of students sitting and being lectured on various subjects. She remembered her father, long before he was killed in the war in 1991, “notch-carving” such designs with his penknife.  She studied the double-headed eagle that symbolized the religious influences of Byzantium and the Western Roman Empire and thought of how the clash of those influences had torn her country apart.

She got up to leave but first ran her fingers along the bronze sculpture of “Post-War Motherhood” — a barefoot mother nursing her child whom she has protected during the long months of war — and remembered how her mother did just that, protecting her and Karmen long after they were children, when they were young women, by finding a way for them to leave Zagreb and immigrate to Pittsburgh a year after the war started and after Tania’s father and her fiancé Josif had both been killed. Tania made the sign of the cross in front of the lace panel of Madonna of Brežje and prayed for peace of mind and for the Virgin to take care of her son and her sister. She knew she could no longer do it.

It was almost 7 p.m by the time she arrived at Fuel & Fuddle to meet her friends. They were already gathered at a table nursing craft beers. A waitress wearing an aqua-jeweled nose ring, mismatched dangly earrings and a “Feminist Killjoy” necklace, took Tania’s order. Aaron asked the waitress about the necklace and she shrugged, “I guess because I’m a feminist, I’m a killjoy.”

Tania ordered a Hitchhiker Trial by Fire beer and Chipotle Polka, mini-potato & cheese stuffed pierogies smothered with adobo sauce and smoked jalapenos. Her friends caught her up on happenings in Pittsburgh and in their lives over dinner.

For dessert, Tania ordered one of her favorite oddities from the menu, a fish-shaped waffle-covered ice cream. Tania always loved Fuel & Fuddle but wondered sometimes at the strange array of items on the menu.  The waitress brought everyone at the table fortune cookies.  Tania’s said: “The wheel of good fortune is finally turning in your direction!”  She hoped so but seriously doubted it.

Another server wore a black tank top that said on the back: No crap on tap.  Yet another had her hot pink hair pulled back in a ponytail. It was bustling place, with athletes tossing balls around on wall-mounted TVs.  The brick walls displayed painted logos from brewing companies and a chalkboard listed names of brews such as Wowie Zowie and Green Zebra.

Over dessert, her friends spoke about the addicts in their lives. It turned out everyone had one.

“There is no way to win,” Mari said. “If you do the tough love thing, you feel guilty and if you care too much, you feel angry and taken advantage of.”

“We’re all spellbound by our own imperfect lives,” Tania said, “because they’re lives and because they’re ours.” She bit into her fish-shaped ice cream and got a brain freeze. She remembered another time she’d eaten odd-shaped food on the Dragon Pearl in Vietnam after Grady had left her for one of his students. She had run away to Asia for a month to escape her heartbreak, and had left Luka, still a toddler, in Karmen’s care. At dinner, as they floated on Halong Bay amidst pointed karsts, the chef had brought out with a flourish a dragon carved out of pumpkin and a junk carved from a watermelon, and she had flirted with a French boy named Pasquale over cilantro-infused dishes.

Hussein shook his head. “Why are we talking about this? We’re ruining our evening.”

The women protested that this was the most interesting topic they had discussed all night and Tania drifted back to that dinner party on the Vietnamese junk and the French boy who never showed up at her door in the unsurprising end, the tedious denouement.

West End Village
West End Village
Dale Chihuly sculpture in the desert room at Phipps
Dale Chihuly sculpture in the desert room at Phipps
The Cuba Exhibit
The Cuba Exhibit
desert cacti at the Phipps
desert cacti at the Phipps
"Cathy," the Cathedral of Learning at University of Pittsburgh
“Cathy,” the Cathedral of Learning at University of Pittsburgh
Yugoslav Room at Cathedral of Learning
Yugoslav Room at Cathedral of Learning
Fuel and Fuddle
Fuel and Fuddle
Fuel and Fuddle
Fuel and Fuddle
Pierogies
Pierogies
Junk on Halong Bay
Junk on Halong Bay
Junk carved from watermelon
Junk carved from watermelon
dragon carved from pumpkin
dragon carved from pumpkin

************************

THE PROCESS: This story is pure fiction but is set in several real travel destinations.  It originated in a creative writing class at the Writer’s Center in Bethesda, Maryland where we did the following exercise:

  • POEM, DREAM, CONFLICT (Exercise from The Portable MFA in Creative Writing (The New York Writer’s Workshop):
    1. Select a line from a poem, biography, anything that resonates with you. Next consider a recent (perhaps troubling) dream. Then recall a problem you’re having with another person.
    2. Once you have each of these items firmly in mind, begin a fictional account that weaves these three disparate strands together, following the steps below:
      1. POEM: Write one or two paragraphs based on the line of poetry (or prose) you chose. Then skip a line.
      2. DREAM: Write one or two paragraphs using fragments or themes from your dream. (It’s unnecessary to make any explicit reference to the text you used for step one.) Again, skip a line.
      3. CONFLICT: Write one or two paragraphs concerning the conflict you thought of. (Again it’s unnecessary to make any explicit reference to steps one or two.) Skip a line.
      4. PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER. Begin weaving together elements from steps one through three. Follow your impulses. When you write the piece, set it in your destination.

The story came about from a poem by Canadian poet Robyn Sarah, a dream I had while on a junk in Halong Bay, Vietnam, and a conflict I had with my South Korean co-teachers with whom I’d shared a carpool for six months. They had invited me to a meeting where they served up a fish-shaped waffle cone to smooth over their bad news to drop me from the car pool.

I wrote the last part of this piece, the dinner party, from that exercise.  My goal here was to write a story set in Pittsburgh, so I added to the short exercise to flush out the characters and to set it in some of the places I visited in Pittsburgh. I couldn’t really flush them out as well as I’d like because I limited myself to 1,500 words.  If this ever becomes a novel, I’ll have no such restrictions.

I’ve had in mind for quite some time to write about this character, Tania, who emigrated from the former Yugoslavia during the war, and who was educated in Pittsburgh and moved to Washington to work in the U.S. Postal Museum. My goal is to expand on this character and the story, including a journey to her former home in Zagreb, Croatia (when I am finally able to visit Croatia).  The story will need a lot of research and time. I hope it will eventually become a novel.

I’m also quite intrigued by the idea of “Bringing a character to…..” (some travel destination).  I’ve wanted to try an exercise such as this for a long time.

“PROSE” INVITATION: I invite you to write up to a 1,500-word post on your own blog about a recently visited particular destination (not journeys in general). Concentrate on any intention you set for your prose.  In this case, my final intention for my Pittsburgh trip was to write a 1,500 word fictional short story set in Pittsburgh using all five senses.

It doesn’t matter whether you write fiction or non-fiction for this invitation.  You can either set your own writing intentions, or use one of the prompts I’ve listed on this page: writing prompts: prose & poetry.  (This page is a work in process.) You can also include photos, of course.

Include the link in the comments below by Monday, June 25 at 1:00 p.m. EST.  When I write my post in response to this invitation on Tuesday, June 26, I’ll include your links in that post.

This will be an ongoing invitation. Feel free to jump in at any time. 🙂

I hope you’ll join in our community. I look forward to reading your posts!

the ~ wander.essence ~ community

I invite you all to settle in and read a few posts from our wandering community.  I promise, you’ll be inspired!

  • Ulli, of Urban Liaisons, wrote beautifully about the melancholic Fado, and other Arab influences that make Portugal and Europe what it is today.
    • Fado Night Dreams of Lisbon
  • Jude, of Travel Words, brings us along with her to Chez Ma Cousine in the center of Old Town Genève, where we can observe the unique characters and sights all around.
    • Postcard from Genève

Thanks to all of you who wrote prosaic posts following intentions you set for yourself.  🙂

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