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    • on returning home
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  • Home
  • about ~ wander.essence ~
    • ~ the places i’ve been ~
    • ~ places i’ve been in the u.s.a. ~
  • Travel Destinations
    • America
      • Boston
      • Delaware
      • District of Columbia
        • Washington
      • Georgia
        • Atlanta
      • Maryland
      • New Jersey
        • Cape May
      • New York
        • Adirondacks
        • Buffalo
        • Niagara Falls
      • Pennsylvania
        • Pittsburgh
      • South Carolina
      • Tennessee
        • Nashville
      • Virginia
    • American Road Trips
      • Canyon & Cactus Road Trip
      • Florida Road Trip
        • Everglades
        • Fort Lauderdale
        • Florida Keys
        • Miami
        • St. Augustine
      • Four Corners Road Trip
        • Arizona
          • Monument Valley
          • Petrified Forest National Park
          • Sunset Crater National Monument
          • Walnut Canyon National Monument
          • Winslow
          • Wupatki National Monument
        • Colorado
          • Colorado National Monument
          • Colorado Towns
          • Great Sand Dunes National Park
          • Grand Junction
        • New Mexico
        • Utah
          • Arches National Park
          • Canyonlands
          • Navajo National Monument
          • Dead Horse Point State Park
          • Hovenweep National Monument
          • Moab
          • Valley of the Gods
          • Natural Bridges National Monument
      • Great Lakes Road Trip
        • Michigan
        • Minnesota
        • Wisconsin
      • Midwestern Triangle
        • Illinois
          • Carbondale
          • Murphysboro
        • Kentucky
          • Covington
          • Lexington
          • Louisville
        • Ohio
          • Cincinnati
      • Road Trip to Nowhere
        • Nebraska
        • North Dakota
        • South Dakota
      • Tex-New Mex Road Trip
        • Texas & New Mexico Road Trip
        • New Mexico
        • Texas
    • International Travel
      • Africa
        • african meanderings {& musings}
        • Egypt
          • Cairo
        • Ethiopia
        • Morocco
      • Asia
        • Cambodia
        • China
          • China Diaries
          • Guangxi Province
        • India
          • Rishikesh
          • Varanasi
        • Japan
          • Kyoto
        • Myanmar
        • Oman
          • a nomad in the land of nizwa
          • Nizwa
        • Singapore
        • South Korea
          • catbird in korea
        • Thailand
        • Turkey
          • Cappadocia
        • Vietnam
      • Central America
        • Costa Rica
        • El Salvador
        • Nicaragua
        • Panama
          • Bocas del Toro
          • Panama City
      • Europe
        • In Search of a Thousand Cafés
        • Croatia
          • Dalmatia
            • Istria
            • Dubrovnik
            • Plitvice Lakes National Park
            • Split
            • Zadar
            • Zagreb
        • Czech Republic
          • Český Krumlov
        • England
        • France
        • Greece
        • Hungary
          • Budapest
          • Esztergom
        • Iceland
        • Italy
          • Bergamo
          • Cinque Terre
          • The Dolomites
          • Florence
          • Rome
          • Tuscany
          • Venice
          • Verona
          • Via Francigena
        • Portugal
        • Spain
          • Camino de Santiago
            • packing list for el camino de santiago 2018
      • North America
        • Canada
          • The Maritimes
            • New Brunswick
            • Nova Scotia
            • Prince Edward Island
          • Ontario
        • Mexico
          • Guanajuato
          • Mexico City
            • Teotihuacán
          • Querétaro
          • San Miguel de Allende
      • South America
        • Colombia
        • Ecuador
          • Cuenca
          • Quito
    • how to make the most of a staycation
      • Coronavirus Coping
  • Imaginings
    • imaginings: the call to place
  • Travel Preparation
    • journeys: anticipation & preparation
  • Travel Creativity
    • on keeping a travel journal
    • on creating art from travels
      • Art Journaling
    • photography inspiration
      • Photography
    • writing prompts: prose
      • Prose
        • Fiction
        • Travel Essay
        • Travelogue
    • writing prompts: poetry
      • Poetry
  • On Journey
    • on journey: taking ourselves from here to there
  • Books & Movies
    • books | international a-z |
    • books & novels | u.s.a. |
    • books | history, spirituality, personal growth & lifestyle |
    • movies | international a-z |
    • movies | u.s.a. |
  • On Returning Home
    • on returning home
  • Annual recap
    • twenty-fifteen
    • twenty-eighteen
    • twenty-nineteen
    • twenty-twenty
    • twenty-twenty-one
    • twenty twenty-two
    • twenty twenty-three
    • twenty twenty-four
    • twenty twenty-five
  • Contact

wander.essence

wander.essence

Home from Morocco & Italy

Home sweet home!May 10, 2019
I'm home from Morocco & Italy. :-)

Italy trip

Traveling to Italy from MoroccoApril 23, 2019
On my way to Italy!

Leaving for Morocco

Casablanca, here I come!April 4, 2019
I'm on my way to Casablanca. :-)

Home from our Midwestern Triangle Road Trip

Driving home from Lexington, KYMarch 6, 2019
Home sweet home from the Midwest. :-)

Leaving for my Midwestern Triangle Road Trip

Driving to IndianaFebruary 24, 2019
Driving to Indiana.

Returning home from Portugal

Home sweet home from Spain & Portugal!November 6, 2018
Home sweet home from Spain & Portugal!

Leaving Spain for Portugal

A rendezvous in BragaOctober 26, 2018
Rendezvous in Braga, Portgual after walking the Camino de Santiago. :-)

Leaving to walk the Camino de Santiago

Heading to Spain for the CaminoAugust 31, 2018
I'm on my way to walk 790 km across northern Spain on the Camino de Santiago.

Home from my Four Corners Road Trip

Home Sweet Home from the Four CornersMay 25, 2018
Home Sweet Home from the Four Corners. :-)

My Four Corners Road Trip!

Hitting the roadMay 1, 2018
I'm hitting the road today for my Four Corners Road Trip: CO, UT, AZ, & NM!

Recent Posts

  • what i learned in flores, petén & the mayan ruins at tikal March 29, 2026
  • guatemala: lago de atitlán March 26, 2026
  • cuaresma in antigua, guatemala March 21, 2026
  • call to place, anticipation & preparation: guatemala & belize March 3, 2026
  • the february cocktail hour: witnessing wedding vows, a visit from our daughter & mike’s birthday March 1, 2026
  • the january cocktail hour: a belated nicaraguan christmas & a trip to costa rica’s central pacific coast February 3, 2026
  • bullet journals as a life repository: bits of mine from 2025 & 2026 January 4, 2026
  • twenty twenty-five: nicaragua {twice}, mexico & seven months in costa rica {with an excursion to panama} December 31, 2025
  • the december cocktail hour: mike’s surgery, a central highlands road trip & christmas in costa rica December 31, 2025
  • top ten books of 2025 December 28, 2025
  • the november cocktail hour: a trip to panama, a costa rican thanksgiving & a move to lake arenal condos December 1, 2025
  • panama: the caribbean archipelago of bocas del toro November 24, 2025
  • a trip to panama city: el cangrejo, casco viejo & the panama canal November 22, 2025

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kyoto, japan: of golden temples, infinite torii gates, & philospher’s walks

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 January 8, 2025
Arrival in Narita & onward to Kyoto

Monday, September 30, 2024: We left Bali at 12:20 a.m. this morning (9/30) and actually managed to sleep for about 5 hours on our 7 hour flight. Garuda Indonesia is one of the nicer airlines I’ve ever flown on; it was very comfortable.

flying back to Japan from Bali
flying back to Japan from Bali
flying back to Japan from Bali
flying back to Japan from Bali
onboard Garuda Indonesia
onboard Garuda Indonesia
clouds out the window while flying back to Japan
clouds out the window while flying back to Japan
Japan Immigration Landing Permission
Japan Immigration Landing Permission

We arrived in Narita at 8:50 a.m. as scheduled and immediately bought our tickets for the Narita Express to Shinagawa and from there the Shinkansen to Kyoto. I was so happy to be back in Japan after the total chaos and lack of any systems in Bali; I am always in admiration of Japan’s efficiency. Infrastructure and a system that works are everything, in my opinion!

Once we were on the Shinkansen, we were able to relax because these are the most comfortable trains imaginable. I ate my favorite onigiri (tuna and mayo) for lunch. Onigiri (お握) is a Japanese rice ball made from white rice. It is usually formed into triangular or cylindrical shapes, and wrapped in nori (seaweed). Yum!!!

We were lucky to enjoy views of Mount Fuji on the way to Kyoto.

The only thing I wanted to know was WHY WHY WHY was it still 90 degrees in Kyoto at the end of September and beginning of October?????

me waiting for the Shinkansen at Shinagawa Station in Tokyo
me waiting for the Shinkansen at Shinagawa Station in Tokyo
Mike waiting for the Shinkansen at Shinagawa Station in Tokyo
Mike waiting for the Shinkansen at Shinagawa Station in Tokyo
me eating onigiri
me eating onigiri
Mount Fuji from the Shinkansen
Mount Fuji from the Shinkansen
Arrival in Kyoto & a stroll around the Gion District

A 3-minute walk from Kyoto Station took us to Sakura Terrace The Gallery, our lovely and convenient hotel. We checked in, rested a bit after our long overnight and morning of travel, then headed out to the Gion district of Kyoto.

Sakura Terrace The Gallery
Sakura Terrace The Gallery
Kyoto Station. Our hotel was where the red star is.
Kyoto Station. Our hotel was where the red star is.
Sakura Terrace The Gallery
Sakura Terrace The Gallery
Sakura Terrace The Gallery
Sakura Terrace The Gallery
Sakura Terrace The Gallery
Sakura Terrace The Gallery

Kyoto has great historical significance in Japan, and it holds numerous cultural assets. Because of this, it is one of the most visited areas in Japan. It was originally laid out in a grid pattern modeled after China’s Tang-dynasty capital Chang’an (contemporary Xi’an). The city served as the capital of Japan and home to the Japanese imperial family from 794 to 1868, at which time the Meiji Restoration took the imperial family to Tokyo, the new capital. However, political power shifted elsewhere during the Kamakura period (1185-1333), when Kamakura served as the national capital, and during the Edo period (1600-1867), when the Tokugawa shogunate ruled Japan from Edo (now Tokyo) (Lonely Planet Japan).

We strolled through Gion (祇園), Kyoto’s most famous geisha district. It is filled with shops, restaurants and ochaya (teahouses), where geiko (Kyoto dialect for geisha) and maiko (geiko apprentices) entertain. We didn’t see any geisha, nor were we entertained by any of them, but there were plenty of mysterious looking places where we could imagine such entertainment was taking place. Mostly, we just found tourists wandering around the alleys and streets.

We ended up at a vegetarian udon noodle shop. Everything was delicious and wonderfully presented. I had an Udon tempura set, while Mike had a Tofu Steak set.

me in Gion
me in Gion
our vegetarian udon noodle shop
our vegetarian udon noodle shop
Udon tempura set
Udon tempura set
me and our meal
me and our meal
Mike and his Tofu Steak set
Mike and his Tofu Steak set
display in the vegetarian udon noodle shop
display in the vegetarian udon noodle shop

After dinner in Gion, we walked to Yasaka Shrine (八坂神社), also known as Gion Shrine; it is one of the most famous shrines in Kyoto and is considered the guardian shrine of the Gion entertainment district. Founded over 1350 years ago, the shrine sits between the popular Gion and Higashiyama districts and is often visited by tourists walking between the two.

The shrine’s main hall combines the honden (inner sanctuary) and haiden (offering hall) into a single building. In front of it stands a dance stage with hundreds of lanterns that get lit in the evenings. Each lantern bears the name of a local business in return for a donation.

Yasaka Shrine
Yasaka Shrine
Yasaka Shrine
Yasaka Shrine
ema at Yasaka Shrine
ema at Yasaka Shrine
ema at Yasaka Shrine
ema at Yasaka Shrine
ema at Yasaka Shrine
ema at Yasaka Shrine
lanterns at Yasaka Shrine
lanterns at Yasaka Shrine
lanterns at Yasaka Shrine
lanterns at Yasaka Shrine
Yasaka Shrine
Yasaka Shrine
Yasaka Shrine
Yasaka Shrine
Yasaka Shrine
Yasaka Shrine
Theatre in Kyoto
Theatre in Kyoto

Steps: 10,209; Miles 4.32. Weather: Hi 85°, Lo 66°. Sunny.

Tuesday, October 1: I came to Kyoto during the Lunar New Year in February 2011, when I was teaching English in South Korea. It was freezing cold when I was here then. On Tuesday the forecast was 90 degrees, so it was much less pleasant for me. Give me a cold day any day! But when traveling we have to deal with the weather hand we’re dealt, so onward we marched.

Kinkaku-ji, the Temple of the Golden Pavilion

Mike wanted to see my favorite places in Kyoto, so I took him first to my favorite place, Kinkaku-ji, a Zen Buddhist temple known as the Temple of the Golden Pavilion; it is one of 17 World Cultural Heritage sites in Kyoto.  It is also one of the most popular buildings in Japan, second only to Mt. Fuji in the number of tourists it attracts. The Golden Pavilion is a 3-story building, the top two stories of which are covered with pure gold leaf.

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Kinkakuji

Originally built in 1397, the present building was reconstructed in 1955 after a mentally ill man burned the original down in 1950.  A fictionalized version of this incident can be found in The Temple of the Golden Pavilion by  Yukio Mishima.

Kinkaku-ji is a Zen temple of the Shokoku-ji School of Rinzai Buddhist denomination. The area used to be the Saionji family’s villa. In 1397, Yoshimitsu, the third Shogun of Ashikaga Shogunate, took it over and built the Kitayama palace centering around a golden stupa, “Kinkaku.” When founded, the Kitayama palace was the center of politics and culture and was used to welcome the emperors of Japan and trading partners from China. The building supposedly houses Buddha relics, specifically Buddha’s ashes. It was registered as a World Cultural Heritage Site in 1994.

The Golden Pavilion extends over a lovely pond that reflects it in all its gleaming gold.  It’s stunning. People were standing on the edges of the pond, admiring its beauty and taking photos. Mike and I wandered around admiring the picture-postcard beauty before the sun started roasting us and we headed out to our next destination.

me with Mike at Kinkakuji
me with Mike at Kinkakuji
Kinkakuji
Kinkakuji
me at Kinkakuji
me at Kinkakuji
Kinkakuji
Kinkakuji
Kinkakuji
Kinkakuji
Kinkakuji
Kinkakuji
Kinkakuji
Kinkakuji
on the grounds of Kinkakuji
on the grounds of Kinkakuji
ema at Kinkakuji
ema at Kinkakuji
ema at Kinkakuji
ema at Kinkakuji
ema at Kinkakuji
ema at Kinkakuji
me with ema at Kinkakuji (& the new fan I bought to keep cool)
me with ema at Kinkakuji (& the new fan I bought to keep cool)
ema at Kinkakuji
ema at Kinkakuji
ema at Kinkakuji
ema at Kinkakuji
ema at Kinkakuji
ema at Kinkakuji
Ryōan-ji, or Temple of the Peaceful Dragon

We kept our explorations on Tuesday to the northwest area of Kyoto. The next temple we visited was about a 20-minute walk along a quiet commercial road to Ryōan-ji, or Temple of the Peaceful Dragon. Ryōan-ji belongs to the Rinzai school and was founded in 1450.

This is home to the famous rock garden, the symbol of Kyoto, that draws tourists to contemplate the emptiness between the rocks. It’s an oblong of meticulously raked sand with a formal collection of 15 strategically placed rocks on little beds of moss, apparently afloat in this sea of sand, and hugged by an earthen wall. The creator of this garden left no explanation of this interesting but austere arrangement.  Apparently it causes photographers fits because it is impossible to capture the entire garden with all 15 rocks in one photograph. Apparently no matter where you sit, you can see only 14 rocks at one time. There are no trees or plants, just moss and white stones and beautiful trees behind the surrounding wall.

This simple and remarkable garden measures only 25m from east to west and 10m from south to north. The rock garden is said to have been created at the end of the Muromachi Period (around 1500) by a highly respected Zen monk, Tokuho Zenketsu.

Ryoan-ji, or Temple of the Peaceful Dragon
Ryoan-ji, or Temple of the Peaceful Dragon
Ryoan-ji, or Temple of the Peaceful Dragon
Ryoan-ji, or Temple of the Peaceful Dragon
Ryoan-ji, or Temple of the Peaceful Dragon
Ryoan-ji, or Temple of the Peaceful Dragon
Ryoan-ji, or Temple of the Peaceful Dragon
Ryoan-ji, or Temple of the Peaceful Dragon
Ryoan-ji, or Temple of the Peaceful Dragon
Ryoan-ji, or Temple of the Peaceful Dragon
Mike at Ryoan-ji
Mike at Ryoan-ji
me at Ryoan-ji
me at Ryoan-ji
Ryoan-ji
Ryoan-ji
Ryoan-ji
Ryoan-ji
Ryoan-ji
Ryoan-ji

We sat for a while admiring the beauty and mystery of this place, then wandered around the veranda of Ryōan-ji Temple, admiring the lovely paintings in the tatami-matted tea rooms. I loved walking barefoot on the smooth & cool wood floors in the shade cast by the surrounding garden.

Originally a country house of the Tokudaiji Clan, it was acquired in 1450 by Hosokawa Katsumoto for use as a Zen training temple. It was destroyed by fire during the Ōnin War (a civil war that lasted from 1467 to 1477) and was rebuilt in 1499. It was registered as a World Heritage Site in 1994.

Ryoan-ji
Ryoan-ji
me on the verandah at Ryoan-ji
me on the verandah at Ryoan-ji
Mike at Ryoan-ji
Mike at Ryoan-ji
Ryoan-ji
Ryoan-ji
Ryoan-ji
Ryoan-ji
me at Ryoan-ji
me at Ryoan-ji
Ryoan-ji
Ryoan-ji
Ryoan-ji
Ryoan-ji
Ryoan-ji
Ryoan-ji
Ryoan-ji, or Temple of the Peaceful Dragon
Ryoan-ji, or Temple of the Peaceful Dragon
Ryoan-ji
Ryoan-ji
Ryoan-ji
Ryoan-ji
tall skinny trees at Ryoan-ji
tall skinny trees at Ryoan-ji
me at Ryoan-ji
me at Ryoan-ji
convoluted roots at Ryoan-ji
convoluted roots at Ryoan-ji
Ryoan-ji
Ryoan-ji
Ryoan-ji
Ryoan-ji
Mike at Ryoan-ji
Mike at Ryoan-ji
The Randen Railway Kitano line & Arashiyama

For our final stop of the day, we ventured to Arashiyama in the northwest suburbs of Kyoto. By the way, all the sights to see in Kyoto are spread out all over the city and the public transport system is not as far-reaching as that in Tokyo. A lot of walking is involved. Or buses.

We headed off on a quest to find the Randen Railway Kitano line at Ryoanji Station. It’s an electric railway that connects the center of Kyoto with the western suburb of Arashiyama, and it must be the cutest little train I’ve ever seen. It’s one of many things that tickles me about Japan. It’s painted a cheery purple color and consists of only one car, driven by a pressed and uniformed driver with a little conductor hat and white gloves. It made a clanging noise as it rumbled along the tracks and dropped us eventually in the suburb of Arashiyama.

walk to Ryoanji Station
walk to Ryoanji Station
walk to Ryoanji Station
walk to Ryoanji Station
walk to Ryoanji Station
walk to Ryoanji Station
Randen Railway Kitano line
Randen Railway Kitano line
conductor on the Randen Railway
conductor on the Randen Railway
me on the Randen Railway Kitano Line
me on the Randen Railway Kitano Line
Mike on the Randen Railway Kitano Line
Mike on the Randen Railway Kitano Line
me getting off the Randen Railway Kitano Line with the conductor getting off behind me
me getting off the Randen Railway Kitano Line with the conductor getting off behind me
me with a colorful "bamboo forest"
me with a colorful “bamboo forest”

When we arrived in Arashiyama, we walked down the cute yet touristy main street where we found a cozy little restaurant. There we enjoyed some vegetarian udon noodles.

lunch spot in Arashiyama
lunch spot in Arashiyama
plastic food display at our lunch spot
plastic food display at our lunch spot
another Japanese fashionista
another Japanese fashionista
vegetarian udon noodles
vegetarian udon noodles
Mike eating lunch
Mike eating lunch

We walked to the Togetsukyo Bridge over the Oi River and found some young ladies decked out in their kimono who were all too happy to pose for a photo.

The Togetsukyo Bridge is in itself a big tourist attraction in Arashiyama, and a symbol of the area’s beauty. Despite being made of concrete, the wooden balustrade fits in with the surrounding natural landscape. The Togetsukyo Bridge was designed to be in harmony with the nature of Arashiyama.

young Japanese ladies on the Togetsukyo Bridge
young Japanese ladies on the Togetsukyo Bridge
view from the Togetsukyo Bridge
view from the Togetsukyo Bridge

We strolled down the tourist street looking at the adorable displays of tiny things that seem to be sold everywhere but have no discernible purpose. I call them little what-nots and they are found everywhere in Japan.

what-nots on the streets of Arashiyama
what-nots on the streets of Arashiyama
what-nots on the streets of Arashiyama
what-nots on the streets of Arashiyama
what-nots on the streets of Arashiyama
what-nots on the streets of Arashiyama
what-nots on the streets of Arashiyama
what-nots on the streets of Arashiyama
what-nots on the streets of Arashiyama
what-nots on the streets of Arashiyama
what-nots on the streets of Arashiyama
what-nots on the streets of Arashiyama

I also bought a rather fancy fan and a stand, which I brought back to put on display in my house. The two items cost about $37, still cheaper than most fans in that shop!

fan shop in Arashiyama
fan shop in Arashiyama
fan shop in Arashiyama
fan shop in Arashiyama
fan shop in Arashiyama
fan shop in Arashiyama
Arashiyama
Arashiyama
Arashiyama
Arashiyama
The Bamboo Forest in Arashiyama

Finally, we went off to find the Bamboo Forest.  All of this was basically the same route I took in 2011 when I was here in Kyoto for the Lunar New Year.

We took a long stroll, with hundreds of other people, through the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove, a natural bamboo forest consisting mostly of mōsō bamboo (Phyllostachys edulis); it has several pathways for tourists and visitors. The Ministry of the Environment considers it a part of the soundscape of Japan.

We stopped in at Nonomiya-jinja Shrine. Imperial princesses who served at Ise Shrine first resided here to purify themselves. Today the shrine is dedicated to the main deity, the Sun Goddess, and to the deity of fire. For generations, emperors sent unmarried daughters to serve at Ise Shrine, where they were known as Saigu. A princess who was set up as a Saigu first spent at least one year undergoing purification within the Imperial Palace, before moving to Nonomiya-jinja. After three years of purification here, she was then taken in a procession to Ise.

Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
me at Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
me at Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
ema at Nonomiya-jinja Shrine
ema at Nonomiya-jinja Shrine
ema at Nonomiya-jinja Shrine
ema at Nonomiya-jinja Shrine
ema at Nonomiya-jinja Shrine
ema at Nonomiya-jinja Shrine
ema at Nonomiya-jinja Shrine
ema at Nonomiya-jinja Shrine
Nonomiya-jinja Shrine
Nonomiya-jinja Shrine
Nonomiya-jinja Shrine
Nonomiya-jinja Shrine
moss garden at Nonomiya-jinja Shrine
moss garden at Nonomiya-jinja Shrine
ema at Nonomiya-jinja Shrine
ema at Nonomiya-jinja Shrine
ema at Nonomiya-jinja Shrine
ema at Nonomiya-jinja Shrine
Nonomiya-jinja Shrine
Nonomiya-jinja Shrine
Nonomiya-jinja Shrine
Nonomiya-jinja Shrine
ema at Nonomiya-jinja Shrine
ema at Nonomiya-jinja Shrine
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Mike at Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Mike at Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
me at Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
me at Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
crowds at Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
crowds at Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
me at Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
me at Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Japanese folks at Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Japanese folks at Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Japanese folks at Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Japanese folks at Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
crowds at Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
crowds at Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Tenryū-ji

We continued to stroll through the bamboo forest at Arashiyama until we reached Tenryū-ji, the head temple of the Tenryū-ji branch of the Rinzai sect of Zen Buddhism. The temple was founded by Ashikaga Takauji in 1339, primarily to venerate Gautama Buddha. Construction was completed in 1345. As a temple related to both the Ashikaga family and Emperor Go-Daigo, the temple is held in high esteem, and is ranked number one among Kyoto’s so-called Five Mountains. In 1994, it was registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as part of the “Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto.”

The temple’s main 14th century Zen garden, with its backdrop of the Arashiyama mountains, is an example of shakkei (borrowed scenery).

The last picture shows a very tired, sweaty, and wild-haired me on the train on the way back from Arashiyama.

grounds of Tenryū-ji
grounds of Tenryū-ji
Tenryū-ji
Tenryū-ji
Tenryū-ji
Tenryū-ji
Tenryū-ji
Tenryū-ji
Tenryū-ji
Tenryū-ji
pond at Tenryū-ji
pond at Tenryū-ji
Tenryū-ji
Tenryū-ji
lotus pond at Tenryū-ji
lotus pond at Tenryū-ji
lotus pond at Tenryū-ji
lotus pond at Tenryū-ji
a hot & sweaty me on the train back to Kyoto Station
a hot & sweaty me on the train back to Kyoto Station
Back to our Kyoto neighborhood

Tuesday night, after our day exploring all over northwest Kyoto and walking over 7 3/4 miles, we went out to eat in our neighborhood. Our hotel is a 3-minute walk from the sprawling Kyoto Station yet is in a mostly quiet residential neighborhood. Mike found an okonomiyaki restaurant, Nishiyama, just a block from our hotel on a quiet street. Okonomiyaki is like a Japanese pancake or pizza. The food was delicious. Mike got okonomiyaki with squid and I got Negiyaki (Ordinary Okonomiyaki sauce or soy sauce), a type of okonomiyaki cooked with lots of green onion (with no squid or pork). I had plum wine with soda and Mike had plum wine straight. The asparagus appetizer was also delectable.

Nishiyama
Nishiyama
Mike with plum wine at Nishiyama
Mike with plum wine at Nishiyama
asparagus appetizer (YUM!!)
asparagus appetizer (YUM!!)
asparagus appetizer
asparagus appetizer
Mike at Nishiyama with his Okonomiyaki with squid
Mike at Nishiyama with his Okonomiyaki with squid
me at Nishiyama
me at Nishiyama
Negiyaki (Ordinary Okonomiyaki sauce or Soy sauce), a type of Okonomiyaki cooked with lots of green onion (with no squid or pork)
Negiyaki (Ordinary Okonomiyaki sauce or Soy sauce), a type of Okonomiyaki cooked with lots of green onion (with no squid or pork)

We wandered around  the neighborhood on a very pleasant evening (finally it was cooling off a bit at night) and enjoyed seeing the lantern-lit buildings promising cozy happenings inside.

Some of the pictures show us around our hotel and in front of the men and women’s public baths.

our Kyoto neighborhood
our Kyoto neighborhood
our Kyoto neighborhood
our Kyoto neighborhood
our Kyoto neighborhood
our Kyoto neighborhood
Mike at Sakura Terrace The Gallery reception area
Mike at Sakura Terrace The Gallery reception area
me in front of the women's public bath
me in front of the women’s public bath
Mike in front of the men's public bath
Mike in front of the men’s public bath

Steps: 18,226; Miles: 7.72. Weather: Hi 90°, Lo 64°. Sunny.

The infinite torii gates at Fushimi Inari Shrine

Wednesday, October 2: On Wednesday morning in Kyoto, on the hottest day of our stay here (90° F), we decided to visit Fushimi Inari Shrine (伏見稲荷大社, Fushimi Inari Taisha), an important Shinto shrine in southeast Kyoto. It is famous for its thousands of vermilion torii gates, which straddle a network of trails behind its main buildings. The trails lead into the wooded forest of the sacred Mount Inari, which stands at 233 meters and belongs to the shrine grounds. The pathway wanders 4km up the mountain and is dotted with dozens of atmospheric sub-shrines.

Fushimi Inari is the most important of some 40,000 shrines all through Japan dedicated to Inari, the Shinto god of rice, as well as to the god of sake. It was dedicated by the Hata family in the 8th century. As the role of agriculture diminished, deities were called upon to ensure prosperity in business. Foxes are thought to be Inari’s messengers, resulting in many fox statues across the shrine grounds. The stone foxes are often referred to as Inari. The key often found in the fox’s mouth is for the rice granary. Fushimi Inari Shrine has ancient origins, predating the capital’s move to Kyoto in 794.

I came to this shrine during the Lunar New Year in 2011 when I worked in Korea. I had ridden a bicycle lent by the hostel and had to catch a flight back to Korea that afternoon. Little did I know how much of this shrine I missed that time. Mike and I spent two solid hours climbing to the top. It was hot and there were hundreds of people, although the numbers thinned out near the top. On the way down I had a problem with my left ankle and that made for slow going.

These are truly INFINITE torii gates at Fushimi Inari Taisha. Honestly, they never seemed to end! And I thought I had visited this shrine in 2011 and had seen most of it. I was nowhere close to seeing the entire thing!

Mike on the train to Fushimi Inari Taisha
Mike on the train to Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
me at Fushimi Inari Taisha
me at Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Mike at Fushimi Inari Taisha
Mike at Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Mike at Fushimi Inari Taisha
Mike at Fushimi Inari Taisha
me at Fushimi Inari Taisha
me at Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
me at Fushimi Inari Taisha
me at Fushimi Inari Taisha
view over Kyoto from Fushimi Inari Taisha
view over Kyoto from Fushimi Inari Taisha
map of Fushimi Inari Taisha
map of Fushimi Inari Taisha
me mimicking the Japanase at Fushimi Inari Taisha
me mimicking the Japanase at Fushimi Inari Taisha
Mike doing a Japanese pose at Fushimi Inari Taisha
Mike doing a Japanese pose at Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Mike at Fushimi Inari Taisha
Mike at Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
me at Fushimi Inari Taisha
me at Fushimi Inari Taisha
Mike at Fushimi Inari Taisha
Mike at Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
me at Fushimi Inari Taisha
me at Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Mike at Fushimi Inari Taisha
Mike at Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
me at Fushimi Inari Taisha
me at Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
me at Fushimi Inari Taisha
me at Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
me at Fushimi Inari Taisha
me at Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Mike at Fushimi Inari Taisha
Mike at Fushimi Inari Taisha

Just before we left Fushimi Inari Taisha, I found some colorful origami strands that reminded me of Hiroshima when I was there in August of 2017.

Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
A dead-end attempt to reach Ohara

Mike and I took a train to try to find a bus to Ohara, a rural area highly recommended by my friend Graham. Sadly we waited and waited for a bus to come in Miyakehachiman, and when two of them came (#17 & #19) they were so packed it was impossible to get onboard.

trying to reach Ohara on several trains
trying to reach Ohara on several trains
trying to reach Ohara on several trains
trying to reach Ohara on several trains
Miyakehachiman
Miyakehachiman
me at the train station in Miyakehachiman
me at the train station in Miyakehachiman
train back into Kyoto
train back into Kyoto
München & Nishiki Market

We decided to give up on going to Ohara and headed instead to Nishiki Market. By this time we were hungry and hot and wanted desperately to sit down and cool off. We stopped at the first restaurant we could find, München. Mike had a hamburger set meal and I had creamy crab croquettes and fried prawns. The meal wasn’t great and we realized later that we should have waited to try the staggering variety of food at Nishiki Market.

Mike at München
Mike at München
our lunch at München
our lunch at München

After lunch, we wandered through Nishiki Market. What a mouthwatering feast for the eyes! We were so disappointed we had just eaten and vowed to return another day.

Mike & I sampled some sake before leaving the market and slowly made our way back to our hotel. We passed a huge bicycle parking lot on the way.

Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Mike at Nishiki Market
Mike at Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Mike at Nishiki Market
Mike at Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Sake at Nishiki Market
Sake at Nishiki Market
Mike samples sake at Nishiki Market
Mike samples sake at Nishiki Market
me trying sake at Nishiki Market
me trying sake at Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
bicycle parking garage
bicycle parking garage

We somehow got lost in Kyoto Station and it took us a long time to find our way out. We were exhausted from climbing to the top of Mt. Inari through the infinite torii gates and attempting our botched trip to Ohara, so we went back to the hotel, got some convenience store food and got comfy in our hotel room. We went down to the lobby later for our free welcome drink, which was offered every night of our stay. I usually had a refreshing gin and tonic.

Steps: 18,287; Miles 7.74. Weather Hi 87°, Lo 64°. Some thunderstorms.

A rainy day along The Path of Philosophy (Tetsugaku-no-Michi)

Thursday, October 3: Thursday morning in Kyoto, we woke to a steady rain and the forecast kept promising sunshine within the next hour. Each hour the forecast changed to more rain and so it continued throughout the entire day. Of course we couldn’t let rain stop us on vacation, so we took a train and a bus to northern Higashiyama to walk The Path of Philosophy along a canal that lies at the foot of the eastern mountains.

We found another Japanese fashion statement on the train and then stopped for coffee at the cafe “& bull.” Then we strolled north on the path, keeping our umbrellas open overhead. I should have remembered when I had walked this path before, I had started at Ginkaku-ji, but we accidentally started in the middle and had to walk north to the temple, then backtrack south to walk the rest of the path.

The Philosopher’s Walk (哲学の道, Tetsugaku-no-michi) is a pedestrian path that follows a cherry-tree-lined canal in Kyoto between Ginkaku-ji and Nanzen-ji. First opened in 1890 and extended again in 1912, the path follows the course of a shallow irrigation channel bringing water from the Lake Biwa Canal. In spring and fall it is especially colorful, but on this rainy day, everything was green.

a schoolgirl on the train
a schoolgirl on the train
& bull coffee shop
& bull coffee shop
& bull coffee shop
& bull coffee shop
The Philosopher's Walk
The Philosopher’s Walk
The Philosopher's Walk
The Philosopher’s Walk
The Philosopher's Walk
The Philosopher’s Walk
The Philosopher's Walk
The Philosopher’s Walk
The Philosopher's Walk
The Philosopher’s Walk
The Philosopher's Walk
The Philosopher’s Walk
maple tree on The Philosopher's Walk
maple tree on The Philosopher’s Walk
The Philosopher's Walk
The Philosopher’s Walk
little pink car
little pink car
The Philosopher's Walk
The Philosopher’s Walk
The Philosopher's Walk
The Philosopher’s Walk
Ginkaku-ji

At the northern end of The Philosopher’s Path is Ginkaku-ji (銀閣寺, Silver Pavilion), a Zen temple along Kyoto’s eastern mountains (Higashiyama). In 1482, shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa built his retirement villa on the grounds of today’s temple, modeled after Kinkaku-ji (Golden Pavilion), his grandfather’s retirement villa at the base of Kyoto’s northern mountains (Kitayama). He desired a place to retreat from the turmoil of civil war. The villa was converted into a Zen temple after Yoshimasa’s death in 1490.

Today, Ginkakuji consists of the Silver Pavilion, which is not silver. Apparently, the shogun’s ambition to cover the building with silver was never realized. The temple complex includes half a dozen other temple buildings, a beautiful moss garden and a unique dry sand garden. It is enjoyed by walking along a circular route around its grounds, from which the gardens and buildings can be viewed.

Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji

The expansive, meticulously maintained dry sand garden, known as the “Sea of Silver Sand,” has a massive sand cone named “Moon Viewing Platform.” It is said to be symbolic of a mountain and lake. Beside the garden stands the Hondo (main hall), which displays paintings on its sliding doors (fusuma) but cannot be entered.

Sea of Silver Sand at Ginkakuji
Sea of Silver Sand at Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
Sea of Silver Sand at Ginkakuji
Sea of Silver Sand at Ginkakuji
Sea of Silver Sand at Ginkakuji
Sea of Silver Sand at Ginkakuji

Despite its name, the Silver Pavilion was never covered in silver. Instead, it is believed that the name arose as a nickname more than a century after the building’s construction to contrast it with the Golden Pavilion. Alternatively, it is explained that moonlight reflecting on the building’s dark exterior (which used to be covered in black lacquer) gave it a silvery appearance.

The pavilion is one of only two buildings on the grounds of Ginkaku-ji which have survived intact the many fires and earthquakes of the past centuries, although it has been undergoing periodical renovation to keep it well preserved.

Ginkakuji’s moss garden features ponds with islands and bridges, little streams and various plants. The path climbs a hill behind the buildings from where there are nice views of the entire temple grounds and the city beyond. For us, the moss garden was the highlight of Ginkaku-ji. The trees also gave us some cover from the steady rain.

Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
moss garden at Ginkakuji
moss garden at Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
moss garden at Ginkakuji
moss garden at Ginkakuji
moss garden at Ginkakuji
moss garden at Ginkakuji
moss garden at Ginkakuji
moss garden at Ginkakuji
moss garden at Ginkakuji
moss garden at Ginkakuji
moss garden at Ginkakuji
moss garden at Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
moss garden at Ginkakuji
moss garden at Ginkakuji
moss garden at Ginkakuji
moss garden at Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
me in the rain at Ginkakuji
me in the rain at Ginkakuji
Mike at Ginkakuji
Mike at Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
Ginkakuji
fish cooking on the road back to The Philosopher's Walk
fish cooking on the road back to The Philosopher’s Walk
Back to the Philosopher’s Path

After leaving Ginkaku-ji, we backtracked south along the the Philosopher’s Path, passing by the “& bull” coffee shop where we’d stopped earlier. We also returned to a shop where I’d fallen in love with a bag made from old kimono fabric. I of course bought the bag as a special treat for myself for my birthday month. The shopkeepers got a big hoot out of the T-shirts we were wearing. Both were gifts from my friend Graham’s wife Ako. Mine translates to something like “person of leisure” or “free time” (does it mean lazy?). Mike’s they found super hilarious and couldn’t stop laughing at it. Apparently it translates to something like “self-satisfied or spoiled” or “tough on others, lenient on oneself.” Anyway, we entertained them for quite some time with those t-shirts!

"Tough on others, lenient on oneself"
“Tough on others, lenient on oneself”
My t-shirt: "person of leisure"
My t-shirt: “person of leisure”

We continued south along the Philosopher’s Path. The route is so-named because two 20th-century Japanese philosophers and Kyoto University professors, Nishida Kitaro and Hajime Tanabe, are thought to have used it for daily exercise. I imagine the two strolling along under the cherry blossoms musing about life’s big questions.

Mike on The Philosopher's Path
Mike on The Philosopher’s Path
me on The Philosopher's Path
me on The Philosopher’s Path
pretty Japanese young women on The Philosopher's Path
pretty Japanese young women on The Philosopher’s Path
The Philosopher's Path
The Philosopher’s Path
The Philosopher's Path
The Philosopher’s Path
The Philosopher's Path
The Philosopher’s Path
maples on The Philosopher's Path
maples on The Philosopher’s Path
a pretty house along The Philosopher's Path
a pretty house along The Philosopher’s Path
Return to Nishiki Market

After our rainy walk along The Philosophers Path, we headed back to the wild Nishiki Market. It was packed with people but it was covered so a good way to stay dry on our last rainy day in Kyoto. Mike wanted to sample some Waygu beef, I wanted to sample grilled shrimp, and we both wanted to sample grilled eel and more sake. The market was pure delicious madness!

Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
the waygu cook at Nishiki Market
the waygu cook at Nishiki Market
Mike eats waygu at Nishiki Market
Mike eats waygu at Nishiki Market
the waygu place at Nishiki Market
the waygu place at Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
the grilled shrimp guy at Nishiki Market
the grilled shrimp guy at Nishiki Market
grilled shrimp at Nishiki Market
grilled shrimp at Nishiki Market
me with my grilled shrimp at Nishiki Market
me with my grilled shrimp at Nishiki Market
grilled eel at Nishiki Market
grilled eel at Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
grilled eel at Nishiki Market
grilled eel at Nishiki Market
sake at Nishiki Market
sake at Nishiki Market
I drink sake & snack on gyoza at Nishiki Market
I drink sake & snack on gyoza at Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
food court at Nishiki Market
food court at Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market
Our Kyoto neighborhood

Our last dinner in Kyoto was back at the restaurant where we ate our 2nd night, to eat okonomiyaki (お好み焼き), the savory pancake made with loads of shredded cabbage then pan fried with egg, sliced meat and katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes) on top. It is cooked on a grill right at the table. It was finished off with a drizzle of sweet Worcestershire sauce and mayonnaise.

We returned to our hotel for our last complimentary drink by a fire pit and prepared ourselves to move Friday morning to Tokushima on the island of Shikoku.

asparagus at the Okonomiyaki restaurant
asparagus at the Okonomiyaki restaurant
me with my plum wine & seltzer
me with my plum wine & seltzer
Mike at Okonomiyaki
Mike at Okonomiyaki
Okonomiyaki
Okonomiyaki
enjoying our complimentary drinks at the hotel
enjoying our complimentary drinks at the hotel

Steps: 13,368; Miles 5.66. Weather Hi 87°, Lo 66°. Rainy.

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twenty twenty-four: family & friends in central america & colombia, a new grandson, return to japan (x3) & excursions to bali & atlanta

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 December 31, 2024

Twenty twenty-four was: A year of beginning to read the book 1968: The Year that Rocked the World, where in the first chapter it was mentioned that in 1968, New Year’s Day was a Monday and the year was to be a Leap Year, both of which were true also for 2024. A year of visiting my old friend Mario (from Oman) in El Salvador, then venturing to Nicaragua to visit Adam and his new family: Maria, Cristy, Andrea and Mia. A year of exploring Colombia: Bogotá, Medellín, Guatape, and Cartegena. A year of welcoming another grandchild to the fold, Adam’s Michael Christopher on May 15. A year of meeting my eldest daughter Sarah for a long birthday and Mother’s Day weekend. A year of a June trip to Atlanta to visit my son Alex and his family Jandira and Allie. A year of concerts at Wolf Trap: Wilco, Indian singer Shreya Ghoshal and Mexican singer Julieta Venegas.  A year of traveling to Bali, Indonesia and Japan with Mike. A year of spending Christmas in Atlanta with the family. An election year in the U.S. in which the former president, who has been indicted for multiple crimes and convicted of 34 felonies, ran again, promising to go after his enemies and become a dictator if he were elected again. A year when President Biden dropped out of the presidential race after a horrible debate performance against Trump and endorsed Kamala Harris. A year where Harris picked Tim Walz of Minnesota to be her running mate. A year of hope ultimately defeated by gloom when Trump won the presidential election. A leap year with a 7.5 magnitude earthquake in Ishikawa prefecture on the main island of Honshu in Japan, in which 238 people were killed and over a thousand injured or missing. A year in which a Japan Airlines flight in Tokyo caught fire on the runway after colliding with a Japanese Coast Guard plane; miraculously all 367 passengers and 12 crew were safely evacuated, although 5 in the Coast Guard plane were killed. A year of Israel’s horrifying and disproportionate retribution on Gaza (where over 45,000 Palestinians have been killed, with over 70% being women and children); the continuing raging of war in Ukraine; a year where mass shootings (defined as shootings in which 4 or more people were killed) in the U.S. (488) outnumbered days in the year. A year in which Jimmy Carter, 39th president of the U.S. and a great humanitarian, passed away, leaving the world a better place, unlike that of our incoming president.   A year in which the Merriam-Webster word of the year was polarization. A year in which the Oxford word of the year was “brain rot“: the supposed deterioration of a person’s mental or intellectual state, esp. viewed as the result of overconsumption of material (now particularly online content) considered to be trivial or unchallenging. A year when the TIME Person of the Year was, disgustingly, Donald Trump (Hitler was Time‘s Person of the Year in 1938, so no surprise there). A year of favorite movies: Driving Madeleine, The Teacher’s Lounge, Perfect Days, Touch, and Lee. A year of reading 52/52 books for the year (My Year in Books 2024); these were my top ten books for 2024.

In January, I: Was saddened by black & white photos of the Great Depression and the Dust Bowl, portraits by “Dorothea Lange: Seeing People” at the National Gallery of Art; the faces seemed to peer out from the pages of Kristin Hannah’s book, The Four Winds: a dirt-covered woman breastfeeding her starving baby; a desperate woman in a field; a group of poor black men sitting on the dilapidated front porch of a general store plastered with Coca-Cola and cigarette signs; Japanese children being sent to internment camps during WWII. Enjoyed another exhibit, “The Land Carries Our Ancestors” in which Native artists from the American West expressed their diversity and deep reverence for the land. Explored “Many Wests: Artists Shape an American Idea” at SAAM, the Smithsonian American Art Museum, where we were immersed in memories of our fabulous trip to west Texas and New Mexico in October of 2023. Was thrilled that Alex got a permanent job; he and Jandira are moving to an apartment closer to their jobs in April. Escaped snow, sub-freezing temperatures and rain by sitting in warm movie theaters and watching The Boys in the Boat, Maestro, Driving Madeleine, and The Holdovers. Ate bibimbap, beef bulgogi, oyster salad and Tex-Mex egg rolls at various restaurants; enjoyed laughs over steaming bowls of Ramen with our friends Karen and Michael. Devoured scrumptious meatballs, dumplings and lamb shanks at Mazadar, a restaurant that specializes in foods from seven countries, including Turkey, Green & Afghanistan. Crunched over snowy paths in our neighborhood and on the Cross County Trail. Booked our flights to El Salvador, Nicaragua and Colombia for March. Kept super busy scanning family photos and sharing the albums with the family on Google Photos, as well as divvying up the photos among our adult children. Read 4/52 books, my favorites being At the End of the Matinee by Keiichiro Hirano and My Brilliant Friend by Elena Ferrante. Finished watching all 83 episodes of Workin’ Moms and Lessons in Chemistry.

  • the january cocktail hour: museum exhibits on the american west, snow days, dining out & movies
"Dorothea Lange: Seeing People" at the National Gallery of Art
“Dorothea Lange: Seeing People” at the National Gallery of Art
"Dorothea Lange: Seeing People" at the National Gallery of Art
“Dorothea Lange: Seeing People” at the National Gallery of Art
"The Land Carries Our Ancestors" at the National Gallery of Art
“The Land Carries Our Ancestors” at the National Gallery of Art
"The Land Carries Our Ancestors" at the National Gallery of Art
“The Land Carries Our Ancestors” at the National Gallery of Art
"The Land Carries Our Ancestors" at the National Gallery of Art
“The Land Carries Our Ancestors” at the National Gallery of Art
"The Land Carries Our Ancestors" at the National Gallery of Art
“The Land Carries Our Ancestors” at the National Gallery of Art
"Many Wests: Artists Shape an American Idea" at SAAM
“Many Wests: Artists Shape an American Idea” at SAAM
me in the courtyard at SAAM
me in the courtyard at SAAM
Mike and me at Artie's
Mike and me at Artie’s
all of us at Jinya Ramen Bar
all of us at Jinya Ramen Bar
Second snow January 21
Second snow January 21
Second snow January 21
Second snow January 21
Second snow January 21
Second snow January 21
Second snow January 21
Second snow January 21
me at Mazadar
me at Mazadar

In February, I: Continued my photo scanning obsession, making digital albums to share with my grown children and divvying up the actual photos between them. Walked along the C&O Canal in Maryland and enjoyed seeing the churning waters of the Potomac River at Great Falls. Ate paneer butter masala at Woodlands, stir-fried shrimp with broccoli at Nanjing Bistro, and flatbreads at Season’s 52. Celebrated Valentine’s Day with sushi, sake and Sapporo at Ariake. Celebrated Mike’s 70th birthday by visiting The Phillips Collection and eating contemporary Mexican tacos at Amparo Fondita in D.C. Gobbled up the Mantu entrée (homemade dumplings filled with minced beef, cabbage and onion, topped with yogurt and mint) at Mazadar, while Mike had Machicha Palow (lamb shank), in another birthday celebration with his sister Barbara. Was saddened by our neighbor Adele’s passing, and went to her funeral on leap day. Read 5/52 books, my favorites being An Artist of the Floating World by Kazuo Ishiguro and The Sound of Things Falling by Juan Gabriel Vásquez, bringing my total to 9/52. Watched the intense German movie, The Teacher’s Lounge, and The Monk and the Gun, which was set in Bhutan. Finally finished watching the last of 208 episodes of How I Met Your Mother (2005-2014) and the final episodes of The Crown (2016-2023).

  • the february cocktail hour: good eats, movies, & someone turned 70 (not me!)
Great Falls, Maryland side
Great Falls, Maryland side
Great Falls, Maryland side
Great Falls, Maryland side
Great Falls, Maryland side
Great Falls, Maryland side
me at Woodlands
me at Woodlands
Mike at Seasons 52
Mike at Seasons 52
me at Seasons 52
me at Seasons 52
Mike at the Phillips Collection
Mike at the Phillips Collection
Ponte della Paglia by Maurice Prendergast
Ponte della Paglia by Maurice Prendergast
Girlhood by Theresa Bernstein
Girlhood by Theresa Bernstein
Ginger Pot with Pomegranate and Pears by Paul Cezanne
Ginger Pot with Pomegranate and Pears by Paul Cezanne
Interior with Egyptian Curtain by Henri Matisse
Interior with Egyptian Curtain by Henri Matisse
Courmayeur et les Dents des Géants by Oskar Kokoschka
Courmayeur et les Dents des Géants by Oskar Kokoschka
me at Amparo Fondita
me at Amparo Fondita
tacos at Amparo Fondita
tacos at Amparo Fondita
Mike and his Tres Leches cake
Mike and his Tres Leches cake
Mike at Mazadar
Mike at Mazadar

In March, I: Watched the fabulous Japanese movie, Perfect Days, which solidified my yearning to visit Japan again; we hoped to do so in September-October. Met Darina at Washington Dulles International Airport (where she flew in to join a 3-week program of visiting schools that teach ESL in the U.S.), brought her home, drank Mike-prepared Hugos, and ate delicious chicken tortilla soup (also prepared by Mike). Drove Darina to the Washington Hilton, where she would begin her program. Met my friend Leah at Joe’s Seafood, where we drank Prosecco, ate lunch, and talked about travels, her work, and politics. Took off for my trip to El Salvador, Nicaragua and Colombia. |*El Salvador*| Climbed with my dear friend Mario to the mirador of San Salvador Volcano. Visited the Centro Historicó of San Salvador and had lunch at the Cuban Cha Cha Cha. Visited Mario’s hometown of Tejutepeque, chatted and drank wine until the wee hours, visited Cinquera and Suchitoto and enjoyed lunch and views over Suchitlán Lake. Continued the long and interesting conversations with Mario that we left off 10+ years ago. Visited La Puerta del Diablo and ate the “best” pupusas at Los Boomwalos, where we enjoyed sweeping views of the capital city. Wandered around the Mayan ruins at Cihuatán and Joya de Cerén. Spent my last day with Mario at Playa Costa del Sol and then prepared for my long day of travel to Ometepe Island in Nicaragua. |*Nicaragua*| Spent a whole day traveling to Ometepe, where, in the evening, we finally met Adam’s new wife, Maria, and her three girls, Cristy (12), Andrea (10) and Mia (7), for dinner at Totoco Ecolodge.  Was surprised to find they will be having a boy and naming him “Michael Christoper.” Spent an afternoon at the pool with Andrea and Mia, watched a folkloric dance performance by the girls, and ate pizza together. Swam and splashed with the family at Ojo de Agua, drank Coco Locos, went clothes shopping, visited Moyogalpa and watched a sunset at Punta de Jesús María. Ate Maria’s beef stew the family sells on Wednesdays and helped Adam run some errands. Took off for Managua where we would catch an early flight to El Salvador and onward to Bogotá on Friday, the 22nd. |*Bogotá, Colombia*| Stayed in the Usaquén neighborhood north of Bogotá where we explored the charming Usaquén Park, surrounded by restaurants, a craft market and a shopping mall. Enjoyed the large exaggerated paintings and sculptures of Fernando Botero Angulo at the Botero Museum in Candelaria. Visited the Church of Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria and then the crowded and vendor- and pigeon-filled Plaza de Bolivar after having a soupy lunch at Balcones de la Candelaria. Bought some raw emeralds in a shop at Casa Colonial, after having artistic coffees. Ate a Tiger Roll at Osaki after perusing the markets at Usaquén Park. Ditched the Bogota Bike Tour about halfway through due to huge crowds, too much yapping by the guide, difficult maneuvering, and finding ourselves in the midst of a huge tent city. Was charmed by the colorful murals at The Plazoleta del Chorro de Quevedo & then ate a delicious but heavy lunch at TBone. Fought the crowds of Semana Santa (Holy Week) at the Museo del Oro, which contains the largest collection of gold artifacts in the world. Stood in a long line to get up the teleférico to Monserrate, where we fought more crowds at the top and enjoyed expansive views of the capital city. Enjoyed pizza for lunch at Oliveto in Usaquén and then got pampered with hour-long deep tissue massages; after, we soaked in the hot tub at our hotel, BioHotel Organic Suites. Got drenched in a rainstorm and warmed up with hot ramen at Wok in Usaquén. |* Medellín, Colombia*| Took a short afternoon flight to Medellín and had a fancy dinner at Niku in Provenza, which was too upscale for us. Went on the Real City Walking Tour with Julio, who told us about the history, growth, tragedy and “resurrection” of Medellín after Pablo Escobar and drug cartels wreaked havoc on the city in the 1980s and early 1990s. Admired more Botero sculptures and art at Botero Plaza and the Museo de Antioquia after having a typical lunch of Bandeja Paisa at Hacienda Junín. Did a “little” clothes shopping at Janethy Moda, a tienda de ropa (clothing store) I’ve been following for a couple of years on Instagram. |*Guatapé & El Peñol*| Went by hired driver (Belgian Peter) to Guatapé, about 2 hours east of Medellín, for an overnight visit. Wandered around the charming town with its zócalos (murals) that adorn the colorful buildings and the cute motochivas (like tuk-tuks in other countries but much cuter) and enjoyed an Indian lunch at Donde Sam. Swam, sunned and had beers at the swim-up bar at 1714 Hotel Boutique near Guatapé and then had dinner there later. Climbed the 708 steps of the monadnock of El Peñol on Good Friday for impressive views of the partially-drained lake of Guatapé. Returned to Guatapé to enjoy the town more, saw a Good Friday procession pass right by our table at Donde Sam, then went via another hired driver, Dino, back to Medellín. |* Medellín, Colombia*| Had dinner at La Mayoría Restaurante: Donde Bailan Los Caballos (where horses dance), enjoying the performances of the singers and dancing horses, and petting the horses and llamas. Visited the 1930s-era Museo el Castillo, where we had to take a 45-minute crowded house tour in Spanish and I had to put up with photo-hogs in front of scenic spots. Enjoyed tacos and another market at El Poblado Park, and then got lost in the 5-story Santa Fe Mall near our apartment in El Poblado. Had dinner at an organic food market, Saludpan, in Laureles, and chatted with some newlyweds from Netherlands at BBC Bodega 70, where we had drinks. Visited Comuna 13 on Easter morning, where we luckily got ahead of the crowds, and enjoyed the colorful murals in what was once one of the most dangerous cities in the world. Visited the Jardín Botánico de Medellín in an effort to find some peace and quiet. Enjoyed our final dinner at Alambique, with a vibe echoing the The White Lotus TV series, on Easter Sunday night, before leaving for Cartagena the next morning. Read 1/52 books, Heaven by Mieko Kawakami, bringing my total to 10/52.

  • a belated march cocktail hour: darina’s surprise visit & diving in to el salvador, nicaragua & colombia
Darina & me at my house
Darina & me at my house
me, Darina, Tatratea and chicken tortilla soup
me, Darina, Tatratea and chicken tortilla soup
me, Mike and Darina at the Washington Hilton
me, Mike and Darina at the Washington Hilton
Leah and me at Joe's Seafood in D.C.
Leah and me at Joe’s Seafood in D.C.
Mario at Ikatú on San Salvador Volcano
Mario at Ikatú on San Salvador Volcano
the caldera of San Salvador Volcano
the caldera of San Salvador Volcano
Plaza Libertad
Plaza Libertad
Mario's fantastic container gardens at his house in Tejutepeque
Mario’s fantastic container gardens at his house in Tejutepeque
Suchitoto
Suchitoto
view over Lake Suchitlan
view over Lake Suchitlan
me with Mario at La Puerta del Diablo
me with Mario at La Puerta del Diablo
pyramid at Cihuatán
pyramid at Cihuatán
view of San Salvador from Los Boomwalos
view of San Salvador from Los Boomwalos
me at Playa Costa del Sol
me at Playa Costa del Sol
L to R: Cristy, Andrea, Maria, Adam & Mia, me, Mike 2024
L to R: Cristy, Andrea, Maria, Adam & Mia, me, Mike 2024
Andrea and Mia in the pool at Totoco
Andrea and Mia in the pool at Totoco
Adam's house (this year he has a new front porch and an outdoor kitchen and bath that is still being constructed) 2024
Adam’s house (this year he has a new front porch and an outdoor kitchen and bath that is still being constructed) 2024
the girls perform a folkloric dance
the girls perform a folkloric dance
Ojo de Agua
Ojo de Agua
Ojo de Agua: Adam, me, Cristy & Andrea
Ojo de Agua: Adam, me, Cristy & Andrea
everyone at Punta de Jesús María
everyone at Punta de Jesús María
Mia with her shells at Punta de Jesús María
Mia with her shells at Punta de Jesús María
Andrea, Cristy and Mia, Adam and Maria at Punta de Jesús María
Andrea, Cristy and Mia, Adam and Maria at Punta de Jesús María
me with Mike at Punta de Jesús María
me with Mike at Punta de Jesús María
flying to San Salvador at sunrise
flying to San Salvador at sunrise
me in the Botero Museum
me in the Botero Museum
Mike in the courtyard
Mike in the courtyard
Botero painting
Botero painting
Botero painting
Botero painting
Botero painting
Botero painting
Iglesia de la Candelaria
Iglesia de la Candelaria
Plaza de Simón Bolivar
Plaza de Simón Bolivar
Plaza de Simón Bolivar
Plaza de Simón Bolivar
lazoleta del Chorro de Quevedo
lazoleta del Chorro de Quevedo
lazoleta del Chorro de Quevedo
lazoleta del Chorro de Quevedo
Museo del Oro
Museo del Oro
me at the Stations of the Cross at Monserrate
me at the Stations of the Cross at Monserrate
me, Julio and Mike after our tour
me, Julio and Mike after our tour
Iglesia de la Veracruz
Iglesia de la Veracruz
Botero Plaza in Medellin
Botero Plaza in Medellin
Botero Plaza
Botero Plaza
Botero Plaza
Botero Plaza
Rafael Uribe Uribe Palace of Culture
Rafael Uribe Uribe Palace of Culture
Museo de Antioquia
Museo de Antioquia
Museo de Antioquia
Museo de Antioquia
Dora Ramírez exhibit
Dora Ramírez exhibit
Guatapé
Guatapé
Guatapé
Guatapé
me in Guatapé
me in Guatapé
riding the motochiva
riding the motochiva
1714 Hotel Boutique
1714 Hotel Boutique
Guatapé
Guatapé
El Peñol
El Peñol
view from El Peñol
view from El Peñol
Guatapé on Good Friday
Guatapé on Good Friday
Mike in Guatapé
Mike in Guatapé
La Mayoría Restaurante
La Mayoría Restaurante
La Mayoría Restaurante
La Mayoría Restaurante
Museo El Castillo
Museo El Castillo
Mike and me at Museo El Castillo
Mike and me at Museo El Castillo
me at Comuna 13
me at Comuna 13
Mike at Comuna 13
Mike at Comuna 13
view over Comuna 13
view over Comuna 13
Comuna 13
Comuna 13
Comuna 13
Comuna 13
Comuna 13
Comuna 13
Comuna 13
Comuna 13
Comuna 13
Comuna 13
Comuna 13
Comuna 13
Alambique
Alambique
Alambique
Alambique

In April, I: Arrived in |*Cartagena, Colombia*| on April Fool’s Day. Stayed in the Casa Quero Hotel Boutique in the city’s Centro Histórico, a location that made it easy to explore all the sites and spend most afternoons in the rooftop pool, enjoying the afternoon breezes and the tepid but still refreshing water.. Took an hour-long boat ride to Isla Bela, where Mike and I lounged in the sun, swam in a clear blue cove, drank coco locos, ate a delicious fish lunch, and took a very choppy (& hilarious) ride back to Cartagena. Ventured aboard the hop-on hop-off bus, visited the fortress of Castillo San Felipe de Barajas, saw the skyscraper hotels of Bocagrande (known as “Little Miami”), and took photos with the palanqueras (women who originally sold fruit from baskets carried on their heads, but now pose for photos for tips). Experienced terrible stomach problems and didn’t want to venture far from the hotel so spent one day wandering around in an air-conditioned shopping mall and through some parts of our neighborhood. Finally felt well enough to explore the characterful outer walled town of Getsemaní, with its cute cafes, bars, fruit vendors, umbrellas, flags, and murals everywhere. Returned on the 7th to|*Home sweet home in Virginia*|. Enjoyed the cool spring weather after a hot and humid week in Cartagena. Experienced a bit of the solar eclipse, at 85% totality at 3:24 p.m. in northern Virginia on the 8th, and definitely saw the crescent of the sun as the moon moved across it. Glimpsed the crescent-shaped shadows under our Japanese maple, with the tiny gaps in the leaves acting like multiple pinhole cameras, projecting the sun’s image to the ground. Ate out at Artie’s and Burapa Thai. Went downtown to see Artomatic, a temporary art installation (closed April 28) that aimed “to strengthen the artistic community and build an audience for that community by bringing together artists to temporarily transform available space into a creative place.”  Only finished 4 books this month, bringing my total to 14/52. Am reading books set in Japan as I get in the mindset for our hoped-for trip in September-October to Bali, Indonesia and Japan. Finished A Dictionary of Mutual Understanding by Jackie Copleton (wonderful – about the aftermath of the Nagasaki bombing) and The Woman in the White Kimono by Ana Johns (about all the mixed-race babies born to Japanese women from American servicemen after WWII). Watched only two movies this month, La Chimera (okay but not great) and The Zone of Interest (which I hated with a passion for too many reasons to count). Finally finished up all seasons of Curb Your Enthusiasm  but felt a bit disappointed with the finale because it was too similar to the finale of Seinfeld. 

  • the april cocktail hour: a week in cartagena, colombia & springtime in virginia
Isla Bela
Isla Bela
me at Isla Bela
me at Isla Bela
Castillo San Felipe de Barajas
Castillo San Felipe de Barajas
view from Castillo San Felipe de Barajas
view from Castillo San Felipe de Barajas
palanqueras
palanqueras
Cartagena
Cartagena
me at our rooftop pool
me at our rooftop pool
Getsemaní
Getsemaní
Getsemaní
Getsemaní
Getsemaní
Getsemaní
Getsemaní
Getsemaní
Getsemaní
Getsemaní
palanqueras
palanqueras
Getsemaní
Getsemaní
Getsemaní
Getsemaní
Getsemaní
Getsemaní
Cartagena
Cartagena
Cartagena
Cartagena
us with our eclipse glasses
us with our eclipse glasses
the shadow box effect
the shadow box effect
cherry trees in Reston
cherry trees in Reston
Artomatic: Andreia Gliga "Romanian at Heart"
Artomatic: Andreia Gliga “Romanian at Heart”
Artomatic
Artomatic
Artomatic
Artomatic
Artomatic: Bobbi Kittner
Artomatic: Bobbi Kittner
Artomatic
Artomatic
Artomatic
Artomatic
Artomatic
Artomatic

In May, I: Continued rowing, walking and doing yoga. Got our Oriental carpet cleaned in our family room (finally!). Had to fire our housekeeper of 20 years because she was becoming undependable and uncommunicative. Hired a new housekeeping service. Started talking to a contractor about renovating our two upstairs bathrooms. Enjoyed Mexican food at Los Tios Grill in Del Ray and had lunch at Kalypso with my walking friend Poonam. Went to lots of doctor and dentist appointments. Spent a weekend in Richmond, where we rented an Airbnb and celebrated belatedly my daughter Sarah’s 40th birthday. Went on a “Sarah shopping spree” and took her out to eat at Midlothian Chef’s Kitchen. Visited the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts to see the Japanese woodblocks of Kawase Hasui (1883-1957), strolled through Carytown, and enjoyed lunch at Ginger Thai for Mother’s Day. Wished Adam and Maria a happy one-year anniversary on the 13th. Welcomed another new grandson into the world: little Michael Christopher Dutchak Hernandez was born on Wednesday morning, May 15, at 6:10 a.m. in Nicaragua. Started looking at cabinetry and fixtures for our bathroom and ate dinner at Ariake to reward ourselves for the drudgery of making decisions about bathroom accoutrements. Had a chat with Adam on the 18th; the new family is exhausted and a bit overwhelmed. Wished Alex and Jandira a happy one-year anniversary on the 18th. Went to see the Japanese movie Evil Does Not Exist at Cinema Arts; felt baffled and annoyed by the non-ending. Took a nasty fall on the mud-covered paved Glade Trail, where I came down hard on my back and tailbone, both of which hurt mightily for some time. Met Mike at bartaco for margaritas and appetizers. Enjoyed the “Bonnard’s Worlds” exhibit at The Phillips Collection and ate a lovely Indian dinner on the patio of Rasika. Sampled wines at Bleu Frog Vineyards with our friends Karen and Michael. Celebrated Trump’s conviction on 34 felony counts in his New York hush money trial, despite the fact he can still run for president and still become president as a convicted felon (What is wrong with this country in that a convicted felon is allowed to run for the highest office in the land??). Finished 5 books to bring my total to 19/52, my favorites being Strange Weather in Tokyo by Hiromi Kawakami and Mad Honey by Jodi Picoult and Jennifer Finney Boylan.

  • the may cocktail hour: a 40th birthday, a 5th new grandchild, “bonnard’s worlds,” & bleu frog vineyards
Sarah at Midlothian Chef's Kitchen
Sarah at Midlothian Chef’s Kitchen
Sarah and Mike at Midlothian Chef's Kitchen
Sarah and Mike at Midlothian Chef’s Kitchen
Sarah at the ice cream shop
Sarah at the ice cream shop
the little princess
the little princess
Sarah and me at Virginia Museum of Fine Arts (VMFA)
Sarah and me at Virginia Museum of Fine Arts (VMFA)
Sarah and me at VFMA
Sarah and me at VFMA
Mike and me at VMFA
Mike and me at VMFA
"View of Mount Unzen from Amakusa" Nov. 1937 Woodblock print by Kawase Hasui
“View of Mount Unzen from Amakusa” Nov. 1937 Woodblock print by Kawase Hasui
Sarah and me at the house we lived in when she was 2 years old at 106 Belmont
Sarah and me at the house we lived in when she was 2 years old at 106 Belmont
me on Cary Street
me on Cary Street
Michael Christopher Dutchak Hernandez
Michael Christopher Dutchak Hernandez
Michael Christopher Dutchak Hernandez
Michael Christopher Dutchak Hernandez
Michael Christopher Dutchak Hernandez
Michael Christopher Dutchak Hernandez
Mikey and Adam
Mikey and Adam
Mike at bartaco
Mike at bartaco
me after we had dinner at bartaco, on our screened porch
me after we had dinner at bartaco, on our screened porch
Mike in front of the Phillips
Mike in front of the Phillips
me in front of the Phillips Collection
me in front of the Phillips Collection
"Women with a Dog" 1891 by Pierre Bonnard
“Women with a Dog” 1891 by Pierre Bonnard
"Bouquet of Mimosas" 1945 by Pierre Bonnard
“Bouquet of Mimosas” 1945 by Pierre Bonnard
"Studio with Mimosa, Le Cannet" 1939/1946 by Pierre Bonnard
“Studio with Mimosa, Le Cannet” 1939/1946 by Pierre Bonnard
"The Palm" 1926 by Pierre Bonnard
“The Palm” 1926 by Pierre Bonnard
"Dining Room on the Garden" 1935 by Pierre Bonnard
“Dining Room on the Garden” 1935 by Pierre Bonnard
"Self-Portrait with Beard" c. 1920 by Pierre Bonnard
“Self-Portrait with Beard” c. 1920 by Pierre Bonnard
"Up Close with Paul Cezanne" at the Phillips Collection
“Up Close with Paul Cezanne” at the Phillips Collection
me in front of the Phillips Collection
me in front of the Phillips Collection
Rasika
Rasika
dinner at Rasika
dinner at Rasika
Michael & Karen, Mike and me at Bleu Frog Vineyards
Michael & Karen, Mike and me at Bleu Frog Vineyards
Mike and me at Bleu Frog Vineyards
Mike and me at Bleu Frog Vineyards
Karen and MIchael
Karen and MIchael
The best of news: He's convicted. The worst of news: He could still become president!
The best of news: He’s convicted. The worst of news: He could still become president!

In June, I: Ventured with Mike down to Atlanta to visit Alex and family, stopping in Greenville, South Carolina along the way. Spent time babysitting Allie, playing games with the family, having dinners in and out, walking on the Beltline, eating some good Southern cooking, exploring Ponce City Market, going to the pool, exploring the Jimmy Carter Presidential Library & Museum, and strolling around the Atlanta Botanical Garden, where we enjoyed “Alice’s Wonderland Returns.” Visited my brother Robbie in Columbus, GA, and ate a Vietnamese lunch with him. Voted for Gerry Connolly in the Democratic Primary. Continued with yoga, walking and rowing. Celebrated Father’s Day by taking Mike to Nue Vietnamese on Saturday and then having a cookout with Mike’s sister on Sunday. Was happy that Mike was able to help Adam to fly back to the U.S. from Nicaragua for the first time in four years; he got offered a chance to do a job getting signatures on various petitions and wanted to raise some money for the family in Nicaragua. Went out to eat at Ginger Thai and then listened to Wilco at Wolf Trap Center for the Performing Arts. Ate Indian again at Bollywood Bistro and then went to see Treasure at Cinema Arts Theatre. Managed to complete 250KM of rowing at RowHouse, a milestone for me. Felt devastated by Biden’s performance at the debate with Trump and lost all hope for this country. Blamed the media for focusing on Biden’s age rather than Trump’s barrage of lies. Went out for Nepali food at Royal Nepal Bistro and then back to Wolf Trap to see Shreya Ghoshal – All Hearts Tour; Ghoshal is one of Bollywood’s music megastars with a repertoire of over 3,000 songs in 300 films. Enjoyed watching Thelma at Cinema Arts. Binge watched Okkupert (Occupied), which was due to be taken off of Netflix by June 29. Read 7 books this month, bringing my total up to 26/52, with my favorites being The Paradise Guest House by Ellen Sussman, All the Lovers in the Night by Mieko Kawakami, and The Way of the 88 Temples: Journeys on the Shikoku Pilgrimage by Robert C. Sibley.

  • the june cocktail hour: a week-long visit to atlanta, concerts & summer yummers
Falls Park on the Reedy in Greenville, SC
Falls Park on the Reedy in Greenville, SC
Mike does what he loves best - riding a bike in Greenville
Mike does what he loves best – riding a bike in Greenville
Mike in Greenville, SC
Mike in Greenville, SC
Meeting 8-month-old Allie
Meeting 8-month-old Allie
Mike reads Allie a book
Mike reads Allie a book
the sleeping Allie
the sleeping Allie
Jandira and me at Azotea Cantina
Jandira and me at Azotea Cantina
Mike and Alex at Azotea Cantina
Mike and Alex at Azotea Cantina
Jandira, Alex, me and Allie at Atlantic Station
Jandira, Alex, me and Allie at Atlantic Station
Allie, Alex and Jandira
Allie, Alex and Jandira
our game of Catan
our game of Catan
me at Ponce City Market
me at Ponce City Market
Mike holding the sleeping baby
Mike holding the sleeping baby
Alex makes moves in Chinese Checkers while feeding Allie
Alex makes moves in Chinese Checkers while feeding Allie
me at the Jimmy Carter Presidential Library and Museum
me at the Jimmy Carter Presidential Library and Museum
portrait of Jimmy Carter
portrait of Jimmy Carter
Jimmy Carter Presidential Library and Museum
Jimmy Carter Presidential Library and Museum
oval office at the Jimmy Carter Presidential Library and Museum
oval office at the Jimmy Carter Presidential Library and Museum
me with Gibson at the Airbnb in Midtown Atlanta on our way to Mary Mac's Tea Room
me with Gibson at the Airbnb in Midtown Atlanta on our way to Mary Mac’s Tea Room
Mike plays with Allie at Krog Street Market
Mike plays with Allie at Krog Street Market
the movie star Allie
the movie star Allie
Allie and Mike
Allie and Mike
lion sculpture on the Beltline near Krog Street Market
lion sculpture on the Beltline near Krog Street Market
Alice's Wonderland Returns
Alice’s Wonderland Returns
Mike at Atlanta Botanical Garden
Mike at Atlanta Botanical Garden
Alice's Wonderland Returns
Alice’s Wonderland Returns
Alice's Wonderland Returns
Alice’s Wonderland Returns
Atlanta Botanical Garden
Atlanta Botanical Garden
"Earth Goddess" at Atlanta Botanical Garden
“Earth Goddess” at Atlanta Botanical Garden
Allie ready for pool time
Allie ready for pool time
Allie, Alex and Mike during pool time
Allie, Alex and Mike during pool time
Jandira and Allie
Jandira and Allie
Mike and Allie at Cattahoochee Food Works
Mike and Allie at Cattahoochee Food Works
me at Cattahoochee Food Works
me at Cattahoochee Food Works
Mike at Cattahoochee Food Works
Mike at Cattahoochee Food Works
Adam's little Mike at 1 month old
Adam’s little Mike at 1 month old
Mike at Nue Vietnamese
Mike at Nue Vietnamese
Nue Vietnamese
Nue Vietnamese
me outside of Nue Vietnamese
me outside of Nue Vietnamese
Wilco and Cut Worms tickets
Wilco and Cut Worms tickets
Wolf Trap Center for the Performing Arts
Wolf Trap Center for the Performing Arts
me at Wolf Trap
me at Wolf Trap
Mike at Wolf Trap
Mike at Wolf Trap
me in Bollywood Bistro
me in Bollywood Bistro
I achieved a milestone of 250K meters of rowing at RowHouse
I achieved a milestone of 250K meters of rowing at RowHouse
Momos at Royal Nepal Bistro
Momos at Royal Nepal Bistro
Royal Nepal Bistro
Royal Nepal Bistro
me at Wolf Trap for Shreya Ghoshal concert
me at Wolf Trap for Shreya Ghoshal concert
Mike at Wolf Trap
Mike at Wolf Trap
Shreya Ghoshal "All Hearts Tour"
Shreya Ghoshal “All Hearts Tour”
Shreya Ghoshal "All Hearts Tour"
Shreya Ghoshal “All Hearts Tour”
Shreya Ghoshal "All Hearts Tour"
Shreya Ghoshal “All Hearts Tour”
Shreya Ghoshal "All Hearts Tour"
Shreya Ghoshal “All Hearts Tour”
June hydrangeas
June hydrangeas
Tatratea drinks to cheer Darina for finishing a tough year at a new job
Tatratea drinks to cheer Darina for finishing a tough year at a new job

In July, I: Suffered through unbearable heat for most of the month. Dreamt of moving north to Portland, Maine, and south to the highlands of Mexico in San Miguel de Allende. Found plate-sized hollyhocks on my summer walks. Ran across a chalk sidewalk message from the Hash House Harriers, which brought back reminiscences about my 2007 time in Egypt. Watched with disbelief as a young man attempted (& failed) to assassinate Trump on the 13th and then watched as Trump milked it for all it was worth (what was that stupid fist pump about?). Applauded Biden’s decision to withdraw from the presidential race and endorse VP Kamala Harris. Got fully behind her and finally felt a thread of hope: #I UNDERSTOOD THE ASSIGNMENT. Spent the first two weeks of the month, with Mike, making decisions about cabinets, hardware, etc. for our upstairs bathrooms. Had both the hall bath and master bath gutted and fully renovated. Suffered through more heat as we lost our air-conditioning for two days on 104°F days (the contractors really suffered); luckily we were able to sleep in the cool basement at night. Spent countless hours pinning down our itineraries for our 6-week trip to Japan and Bali, reading up on where to go and what to see, booking hotels and plotting out our transportation options. Went out to eat a lot with Mike and watched a lot of movies and shows on TV as we stayed indoors to keep cool. Ate pizza at California Pizza Kitchen, sampled Lao and Thai cuisine at Padaek, noshed on flatbreads at Seasons 52, ate appetizers and salmon salad while sitting at the bar at Artie’s, enjoyed sushi at Ariake then went to Target to look for bathroom accoutrements, ate Thai food at Sister’s Thai in Fairfax and then cooled off with ice cream at Woody’s followed by a short stroll around the small city park. Visited our favorite Ethiopian restaurant, Enatye. Felt cheered to see pictures from the kids & grandkids: of Alex, Jandira and Allie spending a day at the Museum of Illusions in Atlanta and of little Mike in Nicaragua – from Adam, who is still in the U.S. working (we still haven’t seen him yet). Saw the movie Touch, which I loved, about an Icelandic man who goes to Japan in search of his first love who had disappeared without a trace; he met her in London when he worked at a Japanese restaurant that her father owned. Watched Find Me Falling on Netflix, where an aging rock star (Harry Connick Jr.) moves to a house in Cyprus that fronts a cliff where people often commit suicide; there he meets an old flame (predictable and a bit hokey). Also finished watching three limited TV series: Apples Never Fall, The Nurse, Midtsommernatt (Swedish), and One Day. Didn’t go anywhere, but at the end of the month, Mike headed off to Centerville, Ohio for his annual five-day weekend with his close-knit high school buddies; they started this gathering in 2004 and have gathered every year except during the 2020 COVID year. Stayed home and enjoyed having the house – almost – to myself (except for the contractors on Wednesday-Friday). Saw two movies: Widow Clicquot, the story behind the Clicquot champagne family and business that began in the 18th century (good!), and The Fabulous Four, about four old friends who reunite for a wedding in Key West (meh). Went out to eat at Yama Chen and at P.F. Chang on my own. Met my friend Leah at Coco B’s in Arlington, where we had bottomless mimosas and talked about politics and Leah’s social life and Mike’s and my travel and retirement plans. Read 6 books this month, bringing my total up to 32/52, with my favorites being Rainbirds by Clarissa Goenawan, The Samurai’s Garden by Gail Tsukiyama (how I love books set in Japan!), Wintering by Peter Geye, and Walking with Buddha: Pilgrimage on the Shikoku 88-Temple Trail by C.W. Lockhart. Also finished Ann Patchett’s Tom Lake, which was barely tolerable (so boring in the first half though it picked up momentum in the second).

  • the july cocktail hour: sweltering heat, bathroom renovations, political upheavals & other miscellany
me at Fairfax Corner
me at Fairfax Corner
dinner at Padaek
dinner at Padaek
Mango sticky rice at Padaek
Mango sticky rice at Padaek
me at Padaek
me at Padaek
Mike at Seasons 52
Mike at Seasons 52
me at Artie's
me at Artie’s
Little Mike in Nicaragua at 2 months old
Little Mike in Nicaragua at 2 months old
Assassination attempt on Trump
Assassination attempt on Trump
Hall bath BEFORE
Hall bath BEFORE
plate-sized flowers found on a Reston walk
plate-sized flowers found on a Reston walk
Hall bath AFTER
Hall bath AFTER
Hall bath AFTER
Hall bath AFTER
Alex, Jandira and Allie at the Museum of Illusions
Alex, Jandira and Allie at the Museum of Illusions
Alex, Jandira and Allie at the Museum of Illusions
Alex, Jandira and Allie at the Museum of Illusions
me in downtown Fairfax
me in downtown Fairfax
Mike in downtown Fairfax
Mike in downtown Fairfax
Master Bath BEFORE
Master Bath BEFORE
Master Bath DEMOLISHED
Master Bath DEMOLISHED
Biden Exits Race, endorses Kamala Harris
Biden Exits Race, endorses Kamala Harris
Master Bath DURING
Master Bath DURING
Mike and his buddies on a golf outing in Ohio
Mike and his buddies on a golf outing in Ohio
Mike and his friends walked to Dianne's Memorial bench
Mike and his friends walked to Dianne’s Memorial bench
drink at P.F. Chang
drink at P.F. Chang
dumplings at P.F. Chang
dumplings at P.F. Chang
me with Leah at Coco B's
me with Leah at Coco B’s
Master Bath ALMOST AFTER
Master Bath ALMOST AFTER
Master Bath ALMOST AFTER
Master Bath ALMOST AFTER
Mike at Enatye
Mike at Enatye

In August, I: Celebrated Kamala Harris’s choice of Tim Walz, governor of Minnesota, as her VP running mate. Felt hopeful watching the Democratic National Convention in Chicago and listening to Kamala Harris’s acceptance speech. Welcomed Adam home for few days where I helped him locate his birth certificate and went out to eat Indian food at Woodlands. Shared Thai food at Pasara Thai in Alexandria with Adam and Mike before dropping Adam at the train station to take an overnight train to Atlanta to visit Alex, Jandira and Allie. Lazed around the house on a drizzling day while Mike and his friend Eric rode the Reston Bike Club’s Metric Century. Welcomed Alex home for a visit from Atlanta so he could spend some time with his close friend Nick who is expecting a baby with his girlfriend Kaylee. Didn’t go to the movie theater at all this month; only saw one Indian movie on Netflix: Laapataa Ladies. Watched shows on streaming services: Atlantic Crossing, Another Self, Grantchester, The Lincoln Lawyer (we finished Season 2), Maestro in Blue, Sunny, Pachinko, Trying and Modern Family. Finished the second season of the fabulous Unforgotten. Read 4 books this month, bringing my total up to 36/52, with my favorites being Walking in Circles: Finding Happiness in Lost Japan by Todd Wassel and The Authenticity Project by Clare Pooley.

  • the august cocktail hour: visits from our sons, disappearing spreadsheets & a metric century
me at Reston Town Center after dinner at Barcelona
me at Reston Town Center after dinner at Barcelona
Mike at Reston Town Center
Mike at Reston Town Center
me, Adam and Mike
me, Adam and Mike
Adam at Pasara Thai
Adam at Pasara Thai
Alex, Allie, Jandira and Adam in Atlanta
Alex, Allie, Jandira and Adam in Atlanta
Jandira, Alex, Allie and Adam hiking up Kennesaw Mountain in Atlanta
Jandira, Alex, Allie and Adam hiking up Kennesaw Mountain in Atlanta
Adam and Mike on our way to Maru
Adam and Mike on our way to Maru
Adam and me at Maru
Adam and me at Maru
Adam flying out of Washington early in the morning
Adam flying out of Washington early in the morning
Adam's map of work and visits
Adam’s map of work and visits
Allie at Tybee Beach
Allie at Tybee Beach
Allie and Alex at the beach
Allie and Alex at the beach
Jandira, Alex and Allie at the beach
Jandira, Alex and Allie at the beach
Adam's bento box at Maru
Adam’s bento box at Maru
Eric and Mike on their Metric Century
Eric and Mike on their Metric Century
Eric and Mike on their Metric Century ride
Eric and Mike on their Metric Century ride
Maria and Mike in Nicaragua
Maria and Mike in Nicaragua
Master bath completed
Master bath completed
me in front of the Freeman House on Church Street with my ice cream
me in front of the Freeman House on Church Street with my ice cream
Mike at Freeman House
Mike at Freeman House
me at Seasons 52
me at Seasons 52
Mike & Alex
Mike & Alex
me with Alex
me with Alex
Alex and Aunt Barbara
Alex and Aunt Barbara
Alex and me at at Flying Ace Farm
Alex and me at at Flying Ace Farm
me with Alex at Flying Ace Farm
me with Alex at Flying Ace Farm
Mike and Alex at Flying Ace Farm
Mike and Alex at Flying Ace Farm

In September, I: Spent the first week in September wrapping up our preparations for our trip to Japan and Bali, Indonesia. Saw Colombian singer Julieta Venegas at Wolf Trap Center for the Performing Arts. Took off for |*Japan*| on September 9, arriving in |*Tokyo*| on the 10th on a mostly empty plane where we were able to stretch out and sleep. Once in Tokyo, I took Mike to visit the Sagamihara campus of Aoyama-Gakuin University and to show him my daily walk from the university to my Leopalace apartment during my semester teaching there in 2017. Met my friend and colleague Graham and his Japanese wife Ako at a Thai restaurant near Fuchinobe Station. Walked around the covered shopping arcades of Harmonica Yokocho in Kichijōji. Took Mike to see Tokyo’s oldest established Buddhist Temple, Sensō-ji and Ueno Park. Strolled down Ameyayokocho Shopping Street in the relentlessly hot afternoon. Took the Shinkansen to Nagoya, where we rented a car and drove through over 30 tunnels to |*Takayama in the Japan Alps.*| Visited the village of Ogimachi in Shirakawa-go and the more remote town of Ainokura, best known for farmhouses in the gasshō-zukuri style. Met Atsu, a Japanese man who spoke excellent English, at his tiny sake bar in Takayama and enjoyed drinks there. Drove north to Hida Furukawago and walked in the rain around the canal-lined town and saw the museum with its elaborate festival floats. Explored Takayama’s old town in the rain. Stopped at two towns along the Nakasendo Trail, Tsumago-juku and Magome-juku, on the way to Nagoya, where we returned our rental car. Got a bad cold from trudging around those towns in excruciating heat and humidity. In |*Nagoya*|, visited Nagoya Castle and and the famous flea market held on the grounds of Ōsu-Kannon Temple in 97°F heat; there I bought a dress and two pairs of pants. Visited the Tokugawa Art Museum  and its water garden in Nagoya. Took the Shinkansen from Nagoya to |*Narita*|, where we spent the night in Wakamatsu Honten Ryokan and visited Naritasan Shinshoji Temple.  Flew to |*Bali, Indonesia*| on Garuda Indonesia, a very nice airline, on September 20. Stayed our first three nights in |*Jimbaran, Bali*|, where we explored the Bukit Peninsula, especially Nusa Dua and Museum Pasifika. Went with a driver through insane traffic to Pura Luhur Uluwatu to see the Uluwatu Kecak Dance, which was overcrowded and poorly organized. Went in search of batik at Krisna Oleh Oleh Bali, hung out at the Jimbaran Beach and, later, at the Movenpick pool. Drove to the east side of the island, |*Sidemen, Bali*|, stopping first at The Klungkung Palace, where we got taken by touts selling sarongs, which we wore in our photos. Enjoyed massages at Alamdhari Resort & SPA. Took a 2 1/2 hour walk through the rice terraces surrounding our hotel, took a dip in the pool, and enjoyed a private yoga class, and relished another massage. Went on an excursion with a driver to Tirta Ganga (a royal water palace), a White Sand Beach (meh), and Tenganan Village (known for its double Ikat textiles). Moved to |*Ubud, Bali*| for our last home in Bali, The Hava Ubud A Pramana Experience, to the west of Ubud’s center. Visited the Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA) in Ubud and enjoyed lunch at Café Lotus, right on the edge of the Ubud Water Palace. Enjoyed an afternoon by the hotel pool. Took a Gojek (like Uber) to the center of Ubud, where we wandered around Ubud Palace and the Ubud Water Palace, where we had to dress up in a sarong and jacket. Visited Museum Puri Lukisan where we found, quite by accident, a Balinese dance production. Enjoyed deep tissue massages at Sari Laba and went to a restorative yoga “Air Class” at Alchemy. Visited the Ceking Rice Terrace, aka Tegalalang Rice Terrace, a very touristy and rather confined set of rice terraces. Left Bali at 12:20 a.m. on the 30th and returned to |*Japan*| on the morning of the 30th. Took the Shinkansen immediately to |*Kyoto*|, where we checked into the very nice Sakura Terrace The Gallery. Before we left for Japan, we watched shows on streaming services: Atlantic Crossing, Another Self, Grantchester, Maestro in Blue, Pachinko, Trying and Modern Family. Read 3 books this month, bringing my total up to 39/52, with my favorite being Fault Lines by Emily Itami and Black and Blue by Anna Quindlen.

  • a belated september cocktail hour: a final summer concert & a trip to the other side of the world: japan {pt.1} & bali, indonesia
me with Mike at Wolf Trap to see Julieta Venegas
me with Mike at Wolf Trap to see Julieta Venegas
Julieta Venegas tickets
Julieta Venegas tickets
me at Aoyama-Gakuin University - Sagamihara campus
me at Aoyama-Gakuin University – Sagamihara campus
Graham, Ako, me and Mike at a Thai restaurant near Fuchinobe Station
Graham, Ako, me and Mike at a Thai restaurant near Fuchinobe Station
Sensō-ji in Tokyo 2024
Sensō-ji in Tokyo 2024
Gasshō-zukuri houses in Ogimachi in Shirakawa-go 2024
Gasshō-zukuri houses in Ogimachi in Shirakawa-go 2024
Gasshō-zukuri houses in Ogimachi in Shirakawa-go 2024
Gasshō-zukuri houses in Ogimachi in Shirakawa-go 2024
canals in Hida Furukawago
canals in Hida Furukawago
Magome-juku
Magome-juku
Ōsu-Kannon Temple in Nagoya 2024
Ōsu-Kannon Temple in Nagoya 2024
Nagoya Castle 2024
Nagoya Castle 2024
Nagoya Castle
Nagoya Castle
Ōsu-Kannon Temple Market
Ōsu-Kannon Temple Market
Tokugawa Art Museum in Nagoya 2024
Tokugawa Art Museum in Nagoya 2024
Tokugawa Park
Tokugawa Park
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple in Narita 2024
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple in Narita 2024
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple in Narita 2024
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple in Narita 2024
me at Wakamatsu Honten in Narita
me at Wakamatsu Honten in Narita
Part 1 of our Japan trip on Polarsteps
Part 1 of our Japan trip on Polarsteps
our flight path to Bali
our flight path to Bali
Movenpick Resort & Spa Jimbaran Bali
Movenpick Resort & Spa Jimbaran Bali
Museum Pasifika at Nusa Dua
Museum Pasifika at Nusa Dua
Museum Pasifika at Nusa Dua
Museum Pasifika at Nusa Dua
me at Uluwatu on the Bukit Peninsula
me at Uluwatu on the Bukit Peninsula
view from Uluwatu
view from Uluwatu
Uluwatu Kecak Dance
Uluwatu Kecak Dance
me with Mike at Klungkung Palace
me with Mike at Klungkung Palace
Klungkung Palace
Klungkung Palace
Alamdhari Resort & SPA
Alamdhari Resort & SPA
Sidemen rice fields
Sidemen rice fields
me at Tirta Ganga
me at Tirta Ganga
Mike at Tirta Ganga
Mike at Tirta Ganga
Mike at Tirta Ganga
Mike at Tirta Ganga
Tenganan Village
Tenganan Village
Mike at ARMA
Mike at ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
Alchemy yoga studio
Alchemy yoga studio
me on the grounds at Alchemy
me on the grounds at Alchemy
Mike at Ubud Water Palace
Mike at Ubud Water Palace
me at Ceking Rice Terrace
me at Ceking Rice Terrace
Ceking Rice Terrace, aka Tegalalang Rice Terrace
Ceking Rice Terrace, aka Tegalalang Rice Terrace
Our Bali adventure on Polarsteps
Our Bali adventure on Polarsteps
Yasaka Shrine, aka Gion Shrine, in Kyoto
Yasaka Shrine, aka Gion Shrine, in Kyoto
Yasaka Shrine, aka Gion Shrine, in Kyoto
Yasaka Shrine, aka Gion Shrine, in Kyoto

In October, I: Dove fully into |*Kyoto*| with Mike, starting with Kinkaku-ji, the Temple of the Golden Pavilion. Explored Kyoto’s famous rock garden, Ryōan-ji, or Temple of the Peaceful Dragon. Dragged Mike on the cutest train imaginable, the purple Randen Historic Tram, which tickles me pink (or purple!). Ate lunch in Arashiyama, found kimono-clad girls on the Togetsukyo Bridge, and waded through crowds in the famous bamboo forest. Wandered through Tenryu-ji, founded in 1339. Topped off an exhausting day with okonomiyaki (Japanese pancake) and plum wine with soda, then enjoyed the free welcome drink at our hotel, Sakura Terrace The Gallery. Climbed uphill through the infinite torii gates of Fushimi Inari Shrine. Tried and failed to visit Ohara, which my friend Graham had highly recommended. Went to Nishiki Market AFTER eating lunch at a German-type restaurant, a big mistake, as one is supposed to sample the great variety of food at the market. Ate a convenience store dinner in our room, finally going down to the lobby to enjoy another free welcome drink (for me, always a gin and tonic). Strolled along the Philosopher’s Path at the foot of the Eastern Mountains in the rain. Wandered around the beautiful Ginkakuji, the Silver Pavilion and its moss and rock gardens. Sampled waygu beef, eel, shrimp tempura and sake at Nishiki Market. Ate again at the cozy okonomiyaki restaurant. Took the train to Tokushima on the island of |*Shikoku*|. Walked 7 of the first 10 temples of the 88-temple pilgrimage, spread out over 2 days. Got sick, along with Mike, with head colds and all-over aches and pains. Celebrated our granddaughter Allie’s first birthday from afar as we watched videos of her day at the Atlanta Aquarium. Headed to |*Okayama*|; from there we took three day trips, the first to |*Bitchu-Takahashi*|, where we visited the interesting Takahashi Folk Museum, the Raikyuji Temple (once the residence of a local feudal lord), the large Haibara Samurai Residence from the Edo period, and the Orii Samurai Residence with its rather eerie life-sized dolls. Took our next day trip to |*Kurashiki Bikan Historical District*|, where we rode a rickshaw, wandered around the weeping willow-lined canals, and climbed to A Chi Shrine. Spent an afternoon in the public onsen in our hotel and ate Indian food at the nearby shopping mall. Took a train and ferry to |*Naoshima*|, an island in the Seto Inland Sea known for its many contemporary art installations and museums. Felt bored by the whole thing; the best part was riding rented e-bikes all around the island (except where prohibited by the museums). Took the Shinkansen from Okayama to Kokura and rented a Toyota Yaris to explore |*Kyūshū Island*|. Was amazed again at Mike’s ability to drive on the left. Arrived in |*Beppu*|, where we visited the Seven “Hells,” (jigoku), hot springs presented in a touristy way that are for viewing only. Drove to |*Yufuin*|, an onsen town in the mountains that, though cute, was overrun by tourists for some three-day weekend holiday. Stayed at Yufuin Onsen Wafu Ryokan Tsuenosho, where we had paid for half-board, which meant we were subjected to two dinners and two breakfasts, all of which were comprised of very weird and unpalatable stuff. Endured the marathon Kaiseki (traditional multi-course Japansese dinner) presented to us in our tatami room at our low table. Visited the “famous” Kinrin Lake, which was more like a pond without much of interest. Enjoyed escaping the town to visit the grasslands, Tsukahara Highlands. Loved the|*Mount Aso *|area in Kyushu. Stopped at the beautiful Park Oike, an off-the-beaten-path moss-covered forest and freshwater spring from which people could drink. Enjoyed the only cold day we had on our trip – a taste of fall, finally. Walked on grasslands at the Mount Aso Visitor Center. Enjoyed the nicest of the four ryokans we stayed in during our travels in Japan, and thankfully NO food was involved. Visited the crowded and touristy Takachiho Gorge in the rain and then visited a bizarre shrine only 3 minutes from our ryokan, the Hogihogi Shrine, known for bestowing luck on those who bought lottery tickets. Started making our way slowly back toward Tokyo so we could fly home. Drove east to see the Usuki Stone Buddhas, another out-of-the-way place south of Oita which was worthwhile. Stayed in Hiji, the closest town to the Oita Airport, and flew back to Haneda on Thursday morning, October 17. Took the train from Haneda to |*Yokohoma*|, a city south of Tokyo that I had visited several times when I lived and worked in Japan, and took Mike to the beautiful Sankeien Garden which exhibits a number of historical buildings from across Japan. Flew home from Tokyo Haneda on Friday the 18th at 3:45 p.m. and arrived home before we left Japan, at 3:20 p.m. that same Friday. Tried to ignore the buildup to our presidential election while traveling, but my attempts to avoid all the rancor were not very successful; I couldn’t stop myself from looking at social media and getting infuriated over all the idiotic, fascist and greedy Trump supporters in our country. Continued wishing for a Harris/Walz victory. Cast my vote early on the 21st for a 100% Democratic ticket, especially Harris/Walz. Put a Harris/Walz sign in a prominent place in my yard. Found a lot of Harris/Walz signs, Halloween decorations and fall colors on a walk around Herndon, VA. Got a beautiful day for my 69th birthday on Friday the 25th. Picked up sandwiches at Puccio’s in Leesburg and took them to Three Creeks Winery in Hamilton, VA; the winery sits in a beautiful spot where three creeks converge, and Mike drank a Cab Franc while I had a Viognier to accompany our sandwiches. Extended my birthday celebration by going out to eat Thai food at Vienna Thai and Bar, where I enjoyed white wine and a green curry with shrimp. Felt connected to the kids when they sent us some family pictures over the month. Read three books, bringing my total to 42/52 (and putting me behind on my annual goal); I loved all of them: Norwegian Wood by Haruki Murakami, Kokoro by Natsume Sōseki, and Beauty and Sadness by Yasunari Kawabata. Didn’t watch much TV while traveling, but in the few places we had Netflix, we watched the Turkish series Zeytin Agaci, aka Another Self and the Greek series Maestro in Blue, and finished On the Verge (just okay). Finished Atlantic Crossing and the most current season of Emily in Paris once we returned home; we continued watching Grantchester, Pachinko, Trying, Shrinking, Lincoln Lawyer, Another Self, Maestro in Blue, The Bear, and Modern Family.

  • the october cocktail hour: another stint in japan & a last birthday before the big 7-0
Kinkaku-ji 2024
Kinkaku-ji 2024
me at Ryōan-ji
me at Ryōan-ji
Randen Historic Tram
Randen Historic Tram
Japanese girls on the Togetsukyo Bridge
Japanese girls on the Togetsukyo Bridge
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove 2024
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove 2024
Tenryu-ji
Tenryu-ji
Fushimi Inari Shrine
Fushimi Inari Shrine
shrine at Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
shrine at Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
waygu beef at Nishiki Market
waygu beef at Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market 2024
Nishiki Market 2024
eel at Nishiki Market
eel at Nishiki Market
Ginkakuji 2024
Ginkakuji 2024
The Philosopher's Path
The Philosopher’s Path
Temple 1: Ryōzenji 2024
Temple 1: Ryōzenji 2024
Temple 2: Gokurakuji
Temple 2: Gokurakuji
wishes left at Temple 5
wishes left at Temple 5
Temple 5: Jizoji
Temple 5: Jizoji
stamp from Temple 5: Jizoji
stamp from Temple 5: Jizoji
me after ringing the bell at Temple 10: Kirihataji
me after ringing the bell at Temple 10: Kirihataji
Temple 8: Kumadaniji
Temple 8: Kumadaniji
Takahashi Folk Museum
Takahashi Folk Museum
Raikyuji Temple 2024
Raikyuji Temple 2024
Raikyuji Temple
Raikyuji Temple
Raikyuji Temple
Raikyuji Temple
Kurashiki Bikan Historical Quarter
Kurashiki Bikan Historical Quarter
me with Mike in a rickshaw in Kurashiki Bikan Historical Quarter
me with Mike in a rickshaw in Kurashiki Bikan Historical Quarter
me in Kurashiki Bikan Historical Quarter
me in Kurashiki Bikan Historical Quarter
Mike at Naoshima
Mike at Naoshima
Mike on his ebike on Naoshima
Mike on his ebike on Naoshima
one of Beppu's seven "Hells"
one of Beppu’s seven “Hells”
one of Beppu's seven "Hells"
one of Beppu’s seven “Hells”
Mike at one of Beppu's seven "Hells"
Mike at one of Beppu’s seven “Hells”
one of Beppu's seven "Hells"
one of Beppu’s seven “Hells”
Mike at one of Beppu's seven "Hells"
Mike at one of Beppu’s seven “Hells”
Kinrin Lake
Kinrin Lake
Mike at Yufuin Onsen Wafu Ryokan Tsuenosho
Mike at Yufuin Onsen Wafu Ryokan Tsuenosho
looking down over Yufuin
looking down over Yufuin
Yufuin Onsen Wafu Ryokan Tsuenosho
Yufuin Onsen Wafu Ryokan Tsuenosho
Tsukahara Highlands
Tsukahara Highlands
Park Oike
Park Oike
Park Oike
Park Oike
Mike at Park Oike
Mike at Park Oike
me at Park Oike
me at Park Oike
Park Oike
Park Oike
Mike at Mount Aso
Mike at Mount Aso
Minamiaso Tourist Information
Minamiaso Tourist Information
me at Minamiaso Tourist Information
me at Minamiaso Tourist Information
Takachiho Gorge
Takachiho Gorge
Takachiho Gorge
Takachiho Gorge
Takachiho Gorge 2024
Takachiho Gorge 2024
Mitsujoin Rice Terraces
Mitsujoin Rice Terraces
Sankeien Garden
Sankeien Garden
Sankeien Garden
Sankeien Garden
Sankeien Garden
Sankeien Garden
Allie at the park
Allie at the park
Allie shows off her new winter coat
Allie shows off her new winter coat
Cristy and little MIke
Cristy and little MIke
Little Mike with Cristy's hair over his head
Little Mike with Cristy’s hair over his head
Maria and Mike
Maria and Mike
I voted!
I voted!
Mike at Three Creeks Winery
Mike at Three Creeks Winery
me at Three Creeks Winery
me at Three Creeks Winery
me at Three Creeks Winery with my Ford Bronco Sport
me at Three Creeks Winery with my Ford Bronco Sport
me at Vienna Thai and Bar
me at Vienna Thai and Bar
Harris/Walz
Harris/Walz
Mind your own damn business!
Mind your own damn business!
Harris/Walz signs
Harris/Walz signs
More Halloween decorations
More Halloween decorations

In November, I: Saw the deeply troubling yet powerful movie, Lee, about war correspondent & photographer Lee Miller; she documented the horrors people faced, especially women, under fascism during World War II. Went with Mike to Artie’s to embrace the light, have a drink in hopes of a positive outcome to the election, and to eat a delicious meal with our friendly bartender Remy, who greets everyone with “Hello beautiful people!” Hoped that the beautiful, loving and caring people of this country would come together on Election Day to reject the fascism, violence, retribution, and divisiveness which would be the hallmarks of another Trump presidency. Felt deflated and furious after Election Day as the despicable convicted felon and insurrectionist-in-chief, Donald Trump, won the presidential election; it was unbelievable that a criminal (he has 34 felonies), a traitor (tried to overthrow the election results on January 6, 2021), and the most vindictive and hateful person in this country, who ran a campaign on divisiveness, fearmongering, hatred and gloom, won out over a highly-qualified, sharp-minded woman who showed herself to be a tough prosecutor and who ran a campaign, with Tim Walz, on unity and joy. Went with Mike to Ariake to try to get out of our funk over the election results. Begrudgingly took down my yard sign while wearing my Harris-Walz T-shirt; I’m still keeping my signs on a chair in my garage where everyone can see them when we open our garage door. Still believe with all my heart that I voted on the right side of history and I will NEVER regret my vote as I watch the country descend into madness. Found a sense of community at Union Market as we discovered murals that celebrate our diversity and our need to vote for women. Met and commiserated with others who were as disgusted and disappointed by the outcome of the election as we were. Ate food from other cultures and Mike got me a couple of gifts for our anniversary (on Nov 13) at a Latino market & at Politics & Prose, a Washington area bookstore where a bookseller recommended a book, I think it was post-apocalyptic, where a Native community in Canada was living in perfect harmony until a bunch of white people came and ruined it. Said, in a joking way but not really joking at all, “White people ruin everything!” Got several nods and a young white man pushing a baby stroller said, with great angst in his voice, something to the effect that “That election was a disgusting travesty,” as he overheard my rather loud comment. Celebrated our 36th (29th) anniversary at Mama Tigre (Mexican Remixed… infused with Indian spices) on Wednesday, November 13th. Took a 4.8 mile walk with Mike on a beautiful Sunday, the 17th, around Burke Lake. Continued to do my daily walks and enjoy the beautiful leaves, which still seemed to be hanging on to the trees late in November. Took a trip to Richmond, VA where we drove around Richmond neighborhoods with a realtor team and looked at 8 houses; the whole expedition turned out to be extremely disappointing. Celebrated Thanksgiving with Mike’s sister Barbara the only one in attendance; we commiserated about the election loss and what it means for the country and the world. Drove northwest about an hour to Frederick, Maryland, where Mike and I ate brunch at Isabella’s and then wandered up and down the festive streets of the town. Did some Christmas shopping in small locally owned shops, trying to minimize our use of Amazon; we don’t want to continue to line the pockets of Jeff Bezos. Only finished three books in November , bringing my total to 45/52 (still 2 books behind schedule to reach my annual goal). Found one of them, All the Lives We Never Lived by Anuradha Roy, especially fascinating for its historical side, which took place in the 1930s, and featured the famous Walter Spies, an artist who promoted Balinese culture and yet, as an “enemy” German citizen, was interred by the Dutch in Bali for two years only to die when his ship was bombed by the Japanese en route to Ceylon.  Saw three movies in November: Lee, which I talked about above; Släptaget (Let Go), an endearing Swedish movie that we streamed on Netflix; and  Blitz , an okay movie which we streamed on Apple TV+. Continued watching Grantchester, Pachinko, Trying, Shrinking, Lincoln Lawyer, Another Self, Maestro in Blue, The Bear, and Modern Family.

  • the november cocktail hour: a sickening election result, an anniversary, & a gloomy outlook in the midst of thanksgiving
November in Virginia
November in Virginia
me at Artie's after seeing the movie Lee
me at Artie’s after seeing the movie Lee
Mike at Artie's after seeing the movie Lee
Mike at Artie’s after seeing the movie Lee
Cristy, Mia and little Mike in Nicaragua
Cristy, Mia and little Mike in Nicaragua
walk around Lake Thoreau in Reston before the election
walk around Lake Thoreau in Reston before the election
walk in Vienna before the election
walk in Vienna before the election
walk in Vienna before the election
walk in Vienna before the election
my Harris-Walz sign, right on the corner where everyone in the neighborhood could see it - BEFORE the election
my Harris-Walz sign, right on the corner where everyone in the neighborhood could see it – BEFORE the election
The despicable news. The Washington Post lost all my respect. This headline makes it look like it's a happy thing!
The despicable news. The Washington Post lost all my respect. This headline makes it look like it’s a happy thing!
Mike at Ariake after the results of the election on Nov. 6
Mike at Ariake after the results of the election on Nov. 6
Me at Ariake. My face tells how I feel.
Me at Ariake. My face tells how I feel.
Me with my Harris/Walz tee-shirt and sign
Me with my Harris/Walz tee-shirt and sign
Union Market
Union Market
Union Market
Union Market
Mike at Union Market
Mike at Union Market
mural in the Union market district
mural in the Union market district
"Vote for your daughter"
“Vote for your daughter”
Equity and Inclusion ?? That won't be happening under Trump!
Equity and Inclusion ?? That won’t be happening under Trump!
Mama Tigre
Mama Tigre
me at Mama Tigre on our anniversary
me at Mama Tigre on our anniversary
Mama Tigre
Mama Tigre
neighborhood trees
neighborhood trees
Allie gnawing on an apple
Allie gnawing on an apple
Jandira, Alex and Allie in Atlanta on Thanksgiving Day
Jandira, Alex and Allie in Atlanta on Thanksgiving Day
Mike & me at Thanksgiving
Mike & me at Thanksgiving
brother and sister at Thanksgiving
brother and sister at Thanksgiving
Ticket to Ride
Ticket to Ride
November colors at Thanksgiving
November colors at Thanksgiving
Isabella's in Frederick, MD
Isabella’s in Frederick, MD
Frederick, MD
Frederick, MD
me in curious iguana bookshop
me in curious iguana bookshop
Frederick, MD
Frederick, MD

In December, I: Decorated for Christmas despite the fact we’d be in Atlanta for the holiday. Face-timed Alex and Adam to wish Adam a happy 32nd birthday on December 7. Went to dinner at Lebanese Taverna in Arlington with Mike. Continued walking, doing yoga and rowing. Went to Mike’s company in-office Christmas party where they honored Mike for his 20-year-anniversary with LMI (The tribute brought tears to my eyes). Arrived in Atlanta on the 21st and checked into our Airbnb on Saint Charles Avenue in Midtown. Welcomed Alex and Allie in the afternoon and when Jandira got off work, we ordered pizza in. Spent a morning at Piedmont Park with Alex and Allie on Sunday, then walked with them to the Levi’s Store at Ponce City Market where we got Alex new jeans for Christmas. Went out with Mike to Whiskey Bird in Virginia Highland, which I loved. Walked in the Virginia Highland neighborhood and stopped at Ash Coffee. Went out to dinner at Bar.bacoa with Alex, Jandira and Allie. Walked with Mike on the Beltline and then ran a bunch of last minute Christmas errands. Ordered sushi from Chin-Chin for Christmas Eve, then picked up Sarah at the airport at around 10:00 p.m. on Christmas Eve. Spent Christmas morning opening presents and having our regular Christmas brunch with the family. Enjoyed seeing Christmas through Allie’s eyes. Played rousing games of Code Names. Went with the family to Ponce City Market where we sampled different foods at the Food Court. Drove 2 hours each way on Friday with Sarah and Mike to Columbus, GA, where we noshed on smoked oysters at my youngest brother Robbie’s loft apartment and then enjoyed a sushi extravaganza at Samurai. Got take-out from Truva on Friday night and took it to Alex and Jandira’s apartment where we hung out one last time. Drove home straight through on Saturday the 28th with thousands of other travelers returning home, stopping at a Bucc-ee’s in Calhoun, Georgia. Finished seven books in December, bringing my total to 52/52, successfully achieving my reading goal for the year: My Year in Books 2024; my favorites were Days at the Morisaki Bookshop by Satoshi Yagisawa, Territory of Light by Yūko Tsushima, and True North by Jim Harrison. Watched one movie: Lonely Planet on Netflix. Finished watching the series Trying and Somebody Somewhere, and continued watching Grantchester, Pachinko, Bad Sisters, Shrinking, Lincoln Lawyer, Another Self, Maestro in Blue, The Bear, and Modern Family. Tried to enjoy our last month under President Biden before this country goes to hell in a handbasket.

  • the december cocktail hour: a christmas celebration in atlanta
me at Lebanese Taverna
me at Lebanese Taverna
Mike at Lebanese Taverna
Mike at Lebanese Taverna
Mike and me at the LMI Christmas party
Mike and me at the LMI Christmas party
goofy picture of us at LMI
goofy picture of us at LMI
Our Airbnb on Saint Charles Ave: we had the top floor unit to the left
Our Airbnb on Saint Charles Ave: we had the top floor unit to the left
me in front of our Airbnb
me in front of our Airbnb
living room in the Airbnb
living room in the Airbnb
img_0092
Allie at Piedmont Park
Allie at Piedmont Park
Alex helps Allie walk down the stairs
Alex helps Allie walk down the stairs
Allie at Piedmont Park
Allie at Piedmont Park
Allie at Piedmont Park
Allie at Piedmont Park
Dido (Mike) and Allie
Dido (Mike) and Allie
Allie, Alex and Jandira
Allie, Alex and Jandira
Mike, Alex and Allie along the Beltline
Mike, Alex and Allie along the Beltline
me with Allie in the Levi's Store
me with Allie in the Levi’s Store
Allie in the Levi's Store
Allie in the Levi’s Store
Allie and Dido in the Levi's Store
Allie and Dido in the Levi’s Store
VA HI (Virginia Highland)
VA HI (Virginia Highland)
Ash Coffee
Ash Coffee
Mike at Ash Coffee
Mike at Ash Coffee
Mural near Publix
Mural near Publix
Ahi Tuna Gyoza tacos and Peruvian Chicken Gyoza tacos at Whiskey Bird
Ahi Tuna Gyoza tacos and Peruvian Chicken Gyoza tacos at Whiskey Bird
Bar.bacoa
Bar.bacoa
Alex and Jandira at Bar.bacoa
Alex and Jandira at Bar.bacoa
me barely holding on to Allie in VA-HI
me barely holding on to Allie in VA-HI
Christmas morning
Christmas morning
me on Christmas morning
me on Christmas morning
Mike on Christmas morning
Mike on Christmas morning
Allie on Christmas morning
Allie on Christmas morning
Allie gets a stuffed pony
Allie gets a stuffed pony
Allie wanted to open all the gifts
Allie wanted to open all the gifts
Jandira, Alex and Allie
Jandira, Alex and Allie
Dido and Allie at Ponce City Market
Dido and Allie at Ponce City Market
Jandira, me and Sarah show off our new necklaces
Jandira, me and Sarah show off our new necklaces
Samurai Sushi in Columbus, GA
Samurai Sushi in Columbus, GA
Sarah, Robbie and Mike at Samurai
Sarah, Robbie and Mike at Samurai
Sarah and Robbie look at their giant sushi boat
Sarah and Robbie look at their giant sushi boat
Mike, me, Robbie and Sarah at Samurai
Mike, me, Robbie and Sarah at Samurai
Allie and Aunt Sarah
Allie and Aunt Sarah
me at Bucc-ee's
me at Bucc-ee’s

Here are some of my previous years’ recap posts. I now wish I had one for every year of my life, as they serve as great reminders of my adventures, joys, challenges, and tribulations in years past!

  • twenty twenty-three: growing our family, travels from central america to italy, & a texas-new mexico road trip
  • twenty twenty-two: a year of north-south travel, a tragic war in ukraine, & final passings
  • twenty twenty-one: from insurrection to omicron, with a great lakes road trip and jaunt to croatia
  • twenty-twenty: baltimore, the year of coronavirus, chicago, & a canyon & cactus road trip
  • twenty-nineteen: morocco, central italy, a road trip to nowhere, & charleston
  • twenty-eighteen: the four corners, niagara falls, & the camino de santiago
  • twenty-seventeen: a semester teaching english in japan & trips to budapest, vienna, prague, český krumlov, and nashville
  • twenty-sixteen: a wedding in oklahoma city, visit to dallas, a major home renovation, iceland’s ring road, west virginia & philadelphia
  • twenty-fifteen: around & about china, myanmar, & california
  • twenty-fourteen: california, losing shirley & bailey, puerto rico, & off to china
  • twenty-thirteen: leaving oman, spain {barcelona, toledo, south of spain}, portugal {tavira, evora, lisbon} & a semester off
  • weekly photo challenge: my 2012 in pictures {working in oman, home to virginia, a trip to greece {athens, meteora, crete & santorini} & ethiopia

Here’s wishing everyone a Happy New Year in 2025! 🙂

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  • Atlanta
  • Cocktail Hour
  • Georgia

the december cocktail hour: a christmas celebration in atlanta

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 December 31, 2024

December 31, 2024: Welcome to our December cocktail hour. I’m happy you’ve dropped by to wrap up 2024 – Cheers! At least we can put off, for one last night, ringing in the new year and the horrors that will most certainly befall us in 2025 under the U.S. incoming administration.

Let’s lift a glass of champagne, or Prosecco, anything bubbly to bask in the last bit of effervescence and buoyancy we will be able to experience here in the U.S. over the next four years (at least).

I also have a variety of beers, soda or seltzer water if you don’t want a bubbly drink. 🙂

How did your December go? How did you celebrate the holiday? Have you welcomed any new additions to your family? Have you read any good books that can inform your worldview, seen any good movies, binge-watched any television series? Have you planned any adventures or had any winter getaways? Have you dreamed any dreams? Gone to any exotic restaurants, cooked any new dishes? Have you been surprised by anything in life? Did you have a nice holiday celebration? Have you learned anything new, taken any classes or just kept up with the news? Have you sung along with any new songs? Have you undertaken any new exercise routines? Have you marched or otherwise participated in political protests? Have you been battered, or alternately, uplifted by any news?

I am still feeling absolute disgust for a wide swath of Americans who handed over our government to a convicted felon and fearmongering scumbag and insurrectionist. I’m sickened by the power that Nazi-lover Elon Musk, not even born in the U.S. nor elected by any U.S. citizens, is wielding over our politics in the U.S. I got off of X soon after he took over that platform and for now am on Bluesky and Threads, though to be honest, I don’t interact much on Bluesky.  I deleted about 200+ people from Facebook (most of them never interacted with me anyway and were people from my high school who were my sisters’ and brother’s friends) and then removed Facebook from my phone. I also removed LinkedIn because I was seeing increasing numbers of right-wing posts. I continue to delete everyone on Instagram who posts any photos of Donald Trump (unless they are memes that make fun of him) and block anyone on Threads who is sympathetic to him. I no longer have time, energy or desire to interact with any MAGAts, and I’m aiming to be out of this country as much as possible over the next four years.

Alex cheered us up with some pictures of Allie in the early part of the month.

Allie mesmerized by Miss Rachel
Allie mesmerized by Miss Rachel
cutie pie Allie
cutie pie Allie

I halfheartedly prepared for Christmas despite the fact we’d be in Atlanta for the holiday. We got a new fake tree, for the first time ever, since we’d be gone the entire week of Christmas. Sadly, that tree, which is perfectly shaped, has such bright lights on it that we can hardly see the ornaments. Who knows, maybe we’ll have to go back to our fresh tree one year, but probably not next Christmas as we hope to go to Nicaragua for Christmas in 2025.

a walk on the CCT on Dec. 1
a walk on the CCT on Dec. 1
me with our new fake tree
me with our new fake tree

On December 7, Adam’s 32nd birthday, Mike, Alex and I face-timed Adam in Nicaragua. Adam sent us a bunch of pictures of the family and the new cows we helped him to buy.

Adam's new cows
Adam’s new cows
one of Adam's cows
one of Adam’s cows
Little Mike and Adam
Little Mike and Adam
Maria, Mike and the chickens
Maria, Mike and the chickens
Maria and little Mike
Maria and little Mike
Andrea, Mia and Cristy
Andrea, Mia and Cristy
Adam's cow
Adam’s cow

Mike and I went to dinner at Lebanese Taverna in Arlington. I continued walking, doing yoga and rowing, but have lost interest in yoga ever since my favorite teacher left the studio. I’m giving up rowing beginning in late January.  We’ll be traveling in February and who knows where we’ll be after that. I want to rid myself of most commitments in the U.S.

me at Lebanese Taverna
me at Lebanese Taverna
Mike at Lebanese Taverna
Mike at Lebanese Taverna
Meze at Lebanese Taverna
Meze at Lebanese Taverna

I was the only spouse invited to LMI’s in-office Christmas party because the company honored Mike for his 20-year-anniversary. The speeches brought tears to my eyes. He’s obviously well-respected at work. It was fun talking to some of his co-workers who I’ve met before, especially Mark, Dwayne and Tamara. We took some very silly pictures while at the party.

me with our new fake tree on the day we went to LMI
me with our new fake tree on the day we went to LMI
Mike and me at the LMI Christmas party
Mike and me at the LMI Christmas party
goofy picture of us at LMI
goofy picture of us at LMI

We drove halfway to Atlanta on the 20th, staying overnight in High Point, North Carolina. We arrived in Atlanta on the 21st and checked into our Airbnb on Saint Charles Avenue in Midtown. We welcomed Alex and Allie to the apartment in the afternoon and when Jandira got off work and joined us, we ordered pizza in.

Our Airbnb on Saint Charles Ave: we had the top floor unit to the left
Our Airbnb on Saint Charles Ave: we had the top floor unit to the left
me in front of our Airbnb
me in front of our Airbnb
living room in the Airbnb
living room in the Airbnb
master bedroom in the Airbnb
master bedroom in the Airbnb
Sarah's room
Sarah’s room
living room in the Airbnb
living room in the Airbnb
our little tree we brought down from Virginia
our little tree we brought down from Virginia
Mike in the kitchen
Mike in the kitchen
Allie, Alex and Jandira
Allie, Alex and Jandira
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We spent Sunday morning at Piedmont Park with Alex and Allie. Later that afternoon, we walked with Alex and Allie on the Beltline and then to the Levi’s Store at Ponce City Market where we got Alex some new jeans for Christmas.

Allie at Piedmont Park
Allie at Piedmont Park
Allie at Piedmont Park
Allie at Piedmont Park
Allie at Piedmont Park
Allie at Piedmont Park
Alex helps Allie walk down the stairs
Alex helps Allie walk down the stairs
Allie at Piedmont Park
Allie at Piedmont Park
Allie at Piedmont Park
Allie at Piedmont Park
Allie climbs the steps to the slide
Allie climbs the steps to the slide
Dido (Mike) and Allie
Dido (Mike) and Allie
Mike, Alex and Allie along the Beltline
Mike, Alex and Allie along the Beltline
me with Allie in the Levi's Store
me with Allie in the Levi’s Store
Allie in the Levi's Store
Allie in the Levi’s Store
Allie and Dido in the Levi's Store
Allie and Dido in the Levi’s Store

Every time we go to Atlanta, we find more things to like about it: cute markets, charming neighborhoods, great restaurants, diversity, botanical gardens and museums. Sunday night we drove through Virginia Highland to Morningside where we ate dinner at the adorable Whiskey Bird. It was just my kind of place with its diverse and creative international flavors, laid back atmosphere and friendly service. We enjoyed a plate of four yakatori: chicken meatball, sweet potato, chimichurri shrimp, and spicy tofu. We also shared Ahi Tuna Gyoza tacos and Peruvian Chicken Gyoza tacos.

It’s too bad there are three major things that can’t be fixed about Atlanta: the state of Georgia’s politics, the city’s horrendous traffic, and most of all, its overall hot and humid weather. It was actually cold when we were there, so for that I was grateful. If not for those three major drawbacks, I could see living there.

Whiskey Bird
Whiskey Bird
Mike at Whiskey Bird
Mike at Whiskey Bird
me at Whiskey Bird
me at Whiskey Bird
yakatori at Whiskey Bird
yakatori at Whiskey Bird
Ahi Tuna Gyoza tacos and Peruvian Chicken Gyoza tacos at Whiskey Bird
Ahi Tuna Gyoza tacos and Peruvian Chicken Gyoza tacos at Whiskey Bird

Monday morning, while Mike worked a few hours, I walked in the Virginia Highland neighborhood and stopped at Ash Coffee. Once Mike finished working, we stopped together at Ash Coffee and then ran to Publix grocery store. We went out to dinner at Bar.bacoa with Alex, Jandira and Allie that night. Allie entertained us by playing hide-n-seek under her napkin. 🙂

walk through Virginia Highland
walk through Virginia Highland
the lollipop house
the lollipop house
pretty walkway
pretty walkway
VA HI (Virginia Highland)
VA HI (Virginia Highland)
Ash Coffee
Ash Coffee
Ash Coffee
Ash Coffee
Mike at Ash Coffee
Mike at Ash Coffee
me at Ash Coffee
me at Ash Coffee
Mural near Publix
Mural near Publix
mural near Publix
mural near Publix
Bar.bacoa
Bar.bacoa
Allie hides under her napkin at Bar.bacoa
Allie hides under her napkin at Bar.bacoa
Alex and Jandira at Bar.bacoa
Alex and Jandira at Bar.bacoa
Pozole at Bar.bacoa
Pozole at Bar.bacoa
tacos and pork belly at Bar.bacoa
tacos and pork belly at Bar.bacoa
Allie and Alex at Bar.bacoa
Allie and Alex at Bar.bacoa
Jandira, Alex and Allie in Virginia Highland
Jandira, Alex and Allie in Virginia Highland
me barely holding on to Allie in VA-HI
me barely holding on to Allie in VA-HI
Virginia Highland
Virginia Highland

Tuesday morning, Mike and I walked on the Beltline and then ran a bunch of last minute Christmas errands. We ordered sushi from Chin-Chin for Christmas Eve, then picked up Sarah at the airport at around 10:00 p.m. on Christmas Eve.

We had a lovely Christmas morning opening presents and having our regular Christmas brunch with the family. We played rousing games of Code Names. Allie seemed excited with all the hubbub and her new gifts.

Christmas morning
Christmas morning
me on Christmas morning
me on Christmas morning
Mike on Christmas morning
Mike on Christmas morning
Allie on Christmas morning
Allie on Christmas morning
Jandira, Alex and Allie
Jandira, Alex and Allie
Allie gets a stuffed pony
Allie gets a stuffed pony
Allie wanted to open all the gifts
Allie wanted to open all the gifts
Jandira gets an Oster Air Fryer
Jandira gets an Oster Air Fryer
Jandira, Alex and cool Allie in her sunglasses (which she broke immediately)
Jandira, Alex and cool Allie in her sunglasses (which she broke immediately)
Code Names
Code Names

Thursday morning, Mike and I took a walk on the Beltline, then we went with the family to Ponce City Market where we sampled different foods at the Food Court.

mural on the Beltline
mural on the Beltline
Dido and Allie at Ponce City Market
Dido and Allie at Ponce City Market
Coca-Cola mural in Atlanta
Coca-Cola mural in Atlanta
Allie with her new soccer ball
Allie with her new soccer ball
Jandira, me and Sarah show off our new necklaces
Jandira, me and Sarah show off our new necklaces

On Friday, our last day in Georgia, Sarah, Mike and I drove 2 hours each way to Columbus, GA, where we noshed on smoked oysters at my youngest brother Robbie’s loft apartment and then enjoyed a sushi extravaganza at Samurai, Robbie’s very generous treat. I miss celebrating the holidays with all my siblings.

Samurai Sushi in Columbus, GA
Samurai Sushi in Columbus, GA
Sarah and Robbie at Samurai Sushi
Sarah and Robbie at Samurai Sushi
Sarah, Robbie and Mike at Samurai
Sarah, Robbie and Mike at Samurai
shrimp tempura at Samurai
shrimp tempura at Samurai
Sarah and Robbie look at their giant sushi boat
Sarah and Robbie look at their giant sushi boat
me, Robbie and Sarah
me, Robbie and Sarah
Mike, me, Robbie and Sarah at Samurai
Mike, me, Robbie and Sarah at Samurai

We got take-out Turkish food from Truva on Friday night and took it to Alex and Jandira’s apartment where we hung out one last time.

Allie on her new play gym
Allie on her new play gym
Allie and Aunt Sarah
Allie and Aunt Sarah
Allie and me
Allie and me
Allie and her octopus
Allie and her octopus

We drove home straight through on Saturday the 28th with thousands of other travelers returning home. It was foggy, dreary and it felt endless, but we finally made it home safely after 11 1/2 hours (with stops along the way). We did stop at a Bucc-ee’s in Calhoun, Georgia, otherwise it was just driving on boring interstate highways. I was happy to be back home!

Mike getting beef jerky at Bucc-ee's
Mike getting beef jerky at Bucc-ee’s
me at Bucc-ee's
me at Bucc-ee’s
Bucc-ee's
Bucc-ee’s
me at Bucc-ee's
me at Bucc-ee’s

I finished seven books in December, bringing my total to 52/52, successfully achieving my reading goal for the year: My Year in Books 2024. My December favorites were Days at the Morisaki Bookshop by Satoshi Yagisawa, Territory of Light by Yūko Tsushima, and True North by Jim Harrison. We watched one movie this month: Lonely Planet on Netflix. We finished watching the series Trying and Somebody Somewhere, and continued watching Grantchester, Pachinko, Bad Sisters, Shrinking, Lincoln Lawyer, Another Self, Maestro in Blue, The Bear, and Modern Family.

Finally, we tried to enjoy our last month under President Biden’s leadership before this country goes to hell in a handbasket. Though Biden was unpopular (mainly due to his faltering age and mainstream media’s sane-washing of Trump), he accomplished so much for the American people, including the American Rescue Plan, the Bipartisan Infrastructure Bill and the Inflation Reduction Act. He stood by Ukraine in its fight for its sovereignty from Russia. Though I don’t agree with his unfettered support of Israel, believe me, it will be much worse under Trump. Biden is a genuinely good man and his service is greatly appreciated by a huge swath of Americans.

We lost a great humanitarian when Jimmy Carter died at age 100 on December 29. He was the 39th president from 1977-1981 but continued his humanitarian work through the Carter Center well into his 90s. I’m so glad President Carter died before Trump takes office on January 20, as Biden will make sure he is properly honored for his contributions to society. Luckily the flag will be flying at half-mast during Trump’s inauguration, which also falls on Martin Luther King Day. I’ll be ignoring the inauguration and instead celebrating Martin Luther King Day and mourning Jimmy Carter. That ignoramus doesn’t exist for me, and I plan to excise any news of him from my life. He will NEVER be MY president.

Our plans for travel in 2025 include trips to Nicaragua and Mexico (with an eye to living there for one year, possibly in 2026) in February-March. We are also looking into moving to Costa Rica for a year to spend time with the Nicaraguan family (we can easily cross the border from Costa Rica). I won’t be able to stay in Costa Rica longer than a year as I hate the heat. If we do move to Costa Rica, we can hopefully travel to Argentina and Chile. If we don’t move there, we hope to travel to Norway, Finland and Sweden.

I hope you’ll share how the year is panning out for you, and what plans you have for 2025. Happy New Year!

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  • American books
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top ten books of 2024

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 December 30, 2024

I choose many of my books for the year either based on my planned travels for the year, or from my huge book collection. On this year’s list, I picked books that took place in Colombia, Japan and Bali. I read 52 books in total, with four taking place in Colombia, four in Bali, Indonesia, 24 in Japan, and others in miscellaneous places. In all, I read some 14,600 pages. Because many of them were short Japanese books, the average length of books I read was 280 pages. I also read 5 short story collections. No wonder I don’t seem to get much else done!

Sadly I fell short in reading nonfiction, although I had many nonfiction books on my list. I hope to improve on that in 2025.

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My 2024 Reading Bookshelves

Here, you can see my 2024 Year in Books. And below are my 10 favorites + one bonus book. 🙂
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At the End of the Matinee, My Brilliant Friend, and An Artist of the Floating World

1) At the End of the Matinee by Keiichirō Hirano *****

I loved this book. The two characters, classical guitarist Satoshi Makino and journalist Yoko Komine, are deeply drawn and sympathetic. Yoko heard Makino’s music when she was younger and when she finally meets him after one of his concerts, they form an immediate bond. But they lead complicated lives; Makino lives in Tokyo but performs all over the world. He seems to be in a slump with his music and much of the story is about his struggle to revive his career and how meeting Yoko affects him and his music.

Yoko is a journalist who lives in Paris but is assigned to work in the war zone in Baghdad; she has a fiance, Richard, who seems a rather blah and superficial American. After a bomb attack in Baghdad where Yoko just misses being killed, she later finds she cannot sleep and is suffering from PTSD. She is the daughter of a Japanese woman who was on the fringes of the atomic bombing in Nagasaki and a Yugoslavian father who is a famous filmmaker. Her father was largely absent from her life, but she develops a relationship with him when she learns to speak English. His films are thought-provoking works exploring the conflicts in Yugoslavia and both Makino and Yoko find a common bond in their appreciation of his films and the musical scores to them.

The meeting between Yoko and Makino leaves a lasting impression on both of them and both of them think often of each other when apart and cannot wait to meet again. The story tells of their attempts to get together, and all the barriers that contrive to keep them apart.

2) My Brilliant Friend by Elena Ferrante *****

Usually I never read a book after watching a movie or TV series based on it, but in this case, I found the series of My Brilliant Friend so intriguing, that I decided to read the book. This is the first of four of the “Neopolitan Novels,” and now, since I’ve seen seasons 1-3 of the series, I want to read the other books. The book gives so much more context and goes into the characters’ heads more than the series can do, so I think reading it adds much depth and understanding to the story. It tells the story of a post-war Naples neighborhood, in the 1950s and 1960s, with a focus on the close yet fraught friendship between Elena Greco, known as Lenù, and her “brilliant friend,” Raffaella Cerullo, known to Elena as Lila.

I love the writing of Elena Ferrante, pseudonymous Italian novelist, and look forward to reading more of her works.

3) An Artist of the Floating World by Kazuo Ishiguro *****

This book seems on its surface an ordinary and quoditian story about an elderly artist, Masuji Ono, and his life after World War II, as Japan is rebuilding and modeling itself on American-style democracy. He is the narrator, and a rather unreliable one at that. He draws you in, and you sympathize with him, but there is innuendo by the characters who he encounters, wispy & ephemeral suggestions, that he is not without guilt in helping to contribute to, and even encourage, the war effort in Japan.

Ono was educated in a community of artists who painted “the floating world,” that world of geisha houses, evening entertainment districts lit with lanterns, the nocturnal pleasures found in pre-War Japan. It was when Ono decided he wanted to do something more substantive and meaningful that his art seemed to delve into criticisms of the old businessmen and politicians who sent the young men to war; at another time, he ended up painting provocations against China, political posters that encouraged the war effort. His life pivoted from heroic to traitorous to heroic. His reputation became tainted, and he felt regrets over things he had done, but he insisted that what he did was suitable at that time; it was the best he could do under the circumstances. In fact many of the older generation of businessmen and politicians that sent young men to war ended up committing suicide by seppuku, in Japanese “self-disembowelment,” and it seemed some of Ono’s acquaintances and even one of his daughters seemed to suggest such might be appropriate for him.

I found Ishiguro’s writing very interesting as, in a very matter-of-fact way, he showed Ono delve into these moral dilemmas while at the same time going back in time to his artistic training, his encounters and misunderstandings with other artists. Then, in the current time, he interacts with his grandson and daughters as he tries to secure his youngest daughter’s marriage and his own reputation.

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The Sound of Things Fallling and Mad Honey

4) The Sound of Things Falling by Juan Gabriel Vásquez *****

The sound of things falling: people getting shot on the street, airplanes falling out of the sky, a whole society falling prey to violence due to political factions and drug cartels. In this excellent novel, young lawyer Antonio Yammara looks back on the insane world of Colombia in the 1980s when Pablo Escobar was at war with Colombia’s government forces and seemed to rule the country with his Medellín drug cartels, his assassinations, and his terrorist attacks. Pablo Escobar was finally shot in 1993, ridding the country of what had been a long shadow over its history.

Pablo Escobar once had a zoo called Hacienda Nápoles, from which a hippo had escaped in 2007; the hippo was shot dead in the middle of 2009, when this story begins. This incident brings back a memory to Antonio, that of a man named Ricardo Laverde, a pilot, who seemed unassuming and even meek upon their meeting. It wasn’t long before Laverde was murdered on the street while Antonio was walking with him; Antonio also took a bullet but wasn’t killed. This incident led him to investigate Laverde’s life, which led him to discover disturbing things about him and about Colombia all the way back to the 1960s.

I love the way this book is written, although the timeline is a bit difficult to follow. The story is told in a straightforward manner and the reader is spurred on the learn more about Ricardo Laverde and how knowing this man impacted Antonio’s life, as well as how Pablo Escobar’s power tragically affected an entire generation.

5) Strange Weather in Tokyo by Hiromi Kawakami (Kindle)*****

I loved the feeling I got while reading this novel, so I was sad when it came to an end. Just like the one semester I lived alone in Japan, teaching English at a university, I experienced a certain feeling of bliss and contentment by simply immersing myself in Japan. It’s a feeling of basking in solitude and in nature, in losing oneself in the tastes and textures of food and drink… and in soaking up the overall atmosphere and even melting into it. Like the main character, from whose viewpoint the story is told, Tsukiko, I was middle aged (actually quite older than her 38 years), and walked home to my tiny apartment each evening, stopping at least a couple times a week at a cozy wood-paneled bar to imbibe in a drink and eat the delectable fish prepared with great care by the owner. I didn’t meet anyone else there, except the friendly bar owner, who could speak a bit of English.

Tsukiko, on the other hand, goes often to a bar, Saturo’s, where she mainly eats and drinks (a lot) alone, but from time to time sits at the bar near “Sensei,” an old teacher (30 years her senior) of hers from high school. At first their relationship echoes their student-teacher relationship, with Sensei gently chastising Tsukiko for not paying attention to certain lessons in school. He recites Haiku to her and tells her his impressions of her as his long-ago student. Soon, Sensei reveals his interests to Tsukiko, inviting her to see his old battery collection or to go mushroom hunting. Tsukiko herself doesn’t seem to have many interests of her own, but finds Sensei to be dignified & old-fashioned, and she finds the way he appreciates simple things intriguing. She even admits of herself: “…as the years passed, I turned into quite a childlike person. I suppose I just wasn’t able to ally myself with time.”

They slowly develop feelings for each other, but these feelings take their sweet time to bloom. The slow-motion building of their emotional connection is fascinating to watch. They even go periods of time without seeing each other, and later, after Tsukiko confesses her love to Sensei, she goes to great lengths to avoid him, telling herself not to hope for any reciprocal feelings from him.

Both characters live lonely existences, but they don’t seem to mind being alone. They both think they’re perfectly happy being alone, but when they become closer, they add a depth and richness to each other’s lives that they couldn’t have imagined.

This could be a book I return to many times, just to recapture that feeling I had while living in Japan, a feeling I hope to recapture this fall as I return to Japan without having to work there. I hope to be able to bask in the feelings of contentment I felt when I was there before.

6) Mad Honey by Jodi Picoult & Jenniver Finney Boylan *****

I was intrigued by this book from the beginning, and I loved the way the co-authors started with the day of the alleged murder of a girl, Lily Campanello, and then went backwards in time and forward in time from that day, slowly unraveling any preconceived notions the reader might develop along the way. It turns out Asher McAfee was Lily’s boyfriend of only 3 months. He was found in Lily’s house holding Lily, who passed out with a bash to the head; shortly thereafter Lily dies. Asher becomes the prime suspect in her murder.

The story is told from the points of view of Asher’s mother, Olivia McAfee, a beekeeper who many years ago left an abusive relationship after hiding bruises for years, and from the victim Lily’s point of view in the months leading up to her death. Secrets are revealed, about Lily’s gender transformation, about Asher’s violent temper, about Olivia’s constant excuse-making in her marriage about her husband Braden’s abuse of her.

The story moved quickly and kept me engrossed. It is a long read, but I found it intriguing. I also learned a lot about marital abuse, beekeeping, and transgender identities and struggles.

I thank Random House Publishing Group-Ballantine for the ARC.

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The Samurai’s Garden and All the Lovers in the Night

7) All the Lovers in the Night by Mieko Kawakami *****

How I love stories set in Japan that revolve around lonely people who blithely live their lives, come to a realization that something needs to change, and try, however tenuously, to connect with other people. I’ve read a number of similarly-themed books in various forms with different characters, yet all of them are unique because of the circumstances and people. In this case, the protagonist Fuyuko Irie is a proofreader in her late 30s who doesn’t connect with the people in her office, so when she is offered the chance to become a freelancer and work from home, she happily accepts the offer. However, working from home isolates her even more.

When Fuyuko realizes eventually that her life has nothing to it, that she cannot even speak to her boss Hijiri about anything of interest in her life, she decides something needs to change. She begins drinking at all times of day. She looks into taking some classes at a cultural center, but after several unsuccessful attempts, she passes out and loses her bag. A kind man in his 50s, Mitsutsuka, helps her when her bag can’t be recovered and they end up meeting in a cafe sporadically, then once a week, and finally twice a week, with some periods interspersed where Fuyuko backs off, fearing her intensifying feelings, and doesn’t show up. Fuyuko thinks often of Mitsutsuka yet she knows nothing about him except that he is a high school physics teacher. They both have an interest in light, and Mitsutsuka teaches her everything he knows about light. I love how the author uses light imagery and nature as reflections of Fuyuko’s ever-deepening feelings.

Fuyuko has a small circle of women friends, one from high school, Noriko, who is married with children but never has sex with her husband and is convinced he is cheating on her. Noriko is also having an affair. Fuyuko’s only other woman friend is her boss Hijiri, who is an intense, hard-working woman who sleeps with men whenever it suits her. Often, Fuyuko remains quiet when talking with them because her life has nothing in it except her work, her loneliness and the bad memory of a sexual assault in her senior year of high school. In much of the book, I think Fuyuko is trying to figure out her role as a woman in modern Japanese society, and to find her place amidst the expectations society has of women.

I loved all the layers in this book, and felt emotionally invested in Fuyuko’s life. Just my kind of story.

8) The Samurai’s Garden by Gail Tsukiyama *****

I adored this Japanese novel with its Zen-like quality and the quiet characters. Stephen is a young Chinese man whose parents have sent him from his home in Hong Kong to his family’s seaside home in Tarumi, Japan in September of 1937. They want him to have time to rest and recover from tuberculosis at this quiet town with its sea breezes. The caretaker of the family home is Matsu, an older Japanese man of few words. One day he takes Stephen for a walk to Yamaguchi, a small remote village where a colony of lepers has been forced to live in isolation. There Stephen is introduced to Sachi, a once beautiful woman, whose face (half of it) has been severely disfigured by leprosy. Stephen can see Sachi’s beauty, a beauty that radiates from within as well as the parts of her that are not disfigured. He watches as Matsu comes alive around Sachi. Later, in the village of Tarumi, they meet Kenzo, Matsu’s childhood friend who had once loved Sachi but abandoned her after she was afflicted with leprosy.

Stephen also meets a beautiful young woman, Keiko, who he yearns to connect with. He only meets her a few times but it is obvious there is a bond between them. However, as Stephen is Chinese, he is forbidden to see Keiko by her father during these tense years while Japan is invading China (beginning July 7, 1937), destroying everything in the Imperial Army’s path.

Besides the war in China looming over Stephen’s stay, his mother has informed him by letter that Stephen’s father, an international businessman, has a Japanese woman who he lives with in Kobe. When Stephen confronts his father about this, his father says he’s in love with the Japanese woman and refuses to leave her, but he will never abandon his family.

Between the stresses of the war news and the father’s infidelity, and the clash that inevitably occurs when Kenzo realizes that Matsu and Sachi are seemingly in love, Stephen tries to find peace in his deepening appreciation of the Japanese garden that Matsu so lovingly tends, in the sea and swimming, and in his growing friendship with Matsu and Sachi. It is a heartwarming story of a young man’s awakening to both the horrors and blessings of the world.

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The Authenticity Project by Clare Pooley

9) The Authenticity Project by Clare Pooley *****

I really enjoyed this book. First, I always love a story told from different points of view and moving forward in time. I like the premise, that a person writes something authentic and revealing about himself in a book titled “The Authenticity Project,” and then leaves the book for other people to find it and do what they will with it. The first author in The Authenticity Project is Julian, a 79-year-old man who reveals his loneliness after his wife Mary died; after he writes his story and leaves the book in Monica’s coffee shop, we learn about Monica. Then Hazard, then Riley, then Alice, and so on and so forth. It was a pleasure to read about this little band of people who come together in the material world and form a community, such a refreshing and rare (in this day and age) coming together of people in real life.

In the Acknowledgments, the author tells how she was an addict and in trying to get sober, she started a blog, telling of her struggles and revealing her authentic self. I too write a blog and have revealed much of myself through various blogs over a 14-year period. You do form a community of sorts when you are authentic in telling your truth and in being open to others. Still, I like the community that is formed around Monica and wish for more of that myself, in real life. 🙂

10) Norwegian Wood by Haruki Murakami (Kindle) ****

I always enjoy a quiet Japanese read, and although this story is quiet, there is a deep undercurrent of emotion, pain and heartbreak. Toru Watanabe immerses himself in memories of his first love, Naoko, the girlfriend of his best friend Kizuki, who committed suicide. Toru doesn’t seem to have much going on in his life; for some reason people befriend him but he doesn’t understand why. He’s certainly not someone with a strong and decisive personality. He doesn’t know why but he somehow became a third wheel to Naoko and Kizuki, who were a couple when they were in high school. Toru doesn’t understand why Kizuki killed himself, and hadn’t noticed any hints that he might do such a thing.

After Kizuki’s suicide, Toru tries to be there for Naoko, but she is struggling with her own mental health issues and in fact stays of her own accord in a kind of self-healing place with an older woman and other societal misfits who also have emotional issues. There are apparently no doctors at this facility and it seems it is like a commune removed from the real world. And the “patients” expect to be healed by the community and by themselves from their emotional traumas.

Toru seems disillusioned by the world, has no direction until he decides to to man up and be whatever Naoko needs him to be. But Naoko really doesn’t seem to need him or want to improve her life. She says she wants to be better, but she has been too devastated by Kisuki’s death, as they were close since they were children. She seems unable to escape her grief. It is frustrating for Toru, and for the reader, that she is so aloof and unreachable.

Overall, I liked the story, which took place in the late 1960s mostly in Tokyo, with a lot of musical references like the Beatles’ “Norwegian Wood,” thus the title.

BONUS: Special Interest Book:
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The Way of the 88 Temples: Journeys on the Shikoku Pilgrimage

The Way of the 88 Temples: Journeys on the Shikoku Pilgrimage by Robert C. Sibley *****

This is an excellent account of author Robert C. Sibley’s experience of walking the 1,400km Shikoku 88-temple pilgrimage in Japan. He describes his reason for walking the pilgrimage at first as “escapist”; he wanted “to escape the confines of everyday life.” He admitted he wasn’t a Buddhist; however, pilgrimages have a way of changing people, and he was open to finding a “spiritual sensibility.” Sibley had completed the Camino de Santiago in Spain already (as I have), and this was another quest for him. He wove together interactions with his companions and other henro (pilgrims) he met along the way, Japanese culture, landscape and food, and finally the proper ways to approach and offer prayers in each temple.

He met a Japanese father and son, Shūji and Jun, who were walking together in hopes of solving the son’s “problems.” They became friends on the trail, although it wasn’t until deep into the pilgrimage that Sibley found out the extent of the family’s struggles. He also met another Japanese man, Tanaka-san, who was walking to “fill an emptiness in his heart.” Together, the four of them completed the pilgrimage despite many struggles and blessings along the way.

I don’t think from his descriptions that I could walk such a pilgrimage with all of the mountains on this pilgrimage route. But it was wonderful to share in his experience by reading about it. It seemed a wonderful experience.

******

Did you read any great books this year? What were some of your favorites?

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  • Asia
  • Bali
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ubud, bali: balinese art, a water palace, yoga, massages, touristy rice terraces & utter chaos

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 December 18, 2024
Arrival in Ubud

Thursday, September 26, 2024:  Kadek drove us this morning from Sidemen to Ubud, another 1 1/2 hour chaotic drive. We arrived at our hotel to the west of Ubud’s center, The Hava Ubud A Pramana Experience.

a beautiful building seen on the way to Ubud
a beautiful building seen on the way to Ubud
The Hava Ubud A Pramana Experience
The Hava Ubud A Pramana Experience
The Hava Ubud A Pramana Experience
The Hava Ubud A Pramana Experience

We dropped our luggage since it was too early to check in and promptly went out to eat lunch at the vegan Alchemy. Mike had a jackfruit “tuna” sandwich and I had a “halloumi” and beet salad. I got a dragon fruit kombucha and Mike a mango. Alchemy had a cool “modern hippie” vibe with a cozy and meditative feeling.

Alchemy
Alchemy
me at Alchemy
me at Alchemy
“halloumi” and beet salad
“halloumi” and beet salad
jackfruit “tuna” sandwich
jackfruit “tuna” sandwich

We tried to walk into Ubud’s center but we didn’t quite make it. We would need to start earlier to actually explore the center. It was a chaotic scene and walking from our hotel was about 1 1/2km just to the outskirts of Ubud. It seemed quite dangerous to walk with hardly any shoulder and cars and motorbikes whizzing about to and fro. We definitely needed to acclimate to Ubud after the laid back vibes of Sidemen. I was not at all prepared for the chaos that is Ubud, and Bali in general!

Making our way back to the hotel, we stopped into a hole-in-the-wall shop where I found a lightweight pair of tie-dyed pants; they cost 50,000 Indonesian rupiah, about $3.10, and since they were too long, the shopkeeper said she would hem them overnight and I could return the next day to pick them up.  I knew I could use them even in Japan, where we could see it was forecast to be hot for the foreseeable future when we returned there on Monday. I also bought a lightweight flowy skirt which I wore out to dinner and would get a lot of use out of for the next 3+ weeks. We had both packed a bunch of fall clothes which we never used and which were dead weight in our suitcases.

We finally checked into the hotel and relaxed a bit before heading out for dinner.

chaotic Ubud
chaotic Ubud
chaotic Ubud
chaotic Ubud
chaotic Ubud
chaotic Ubud
the pants I bought for the continuing hot weather
the pants I bought for the continuing hot weather
our room at The Hava Ubud A Pramana Experience
our room at The Hava Ubud A Pramana Experience

We had a lovely dinner Thursday night, our first night in Ubud, at La Luz Mexican restaurant. Shrimp tacos for me, Carne Asado tacos for Mike and a chocolate lava cake with ice cream to share. 🙏🏻 The food scene in Ubud seemed quite diverse and impressive, and we were lucky in our west-end neighborhood to have a good number of choices.

La Luz Mexican restaurant in Ubud
La Luz Mexican restaurant in Ubud
me at La Luz Mexican restaurant
me at La Luz Mexican restaurant
Carne Asado tacos
Carne Asado tacos
shrimp tacos
shrimp tacos
chocolate lava cake with ice cream
chocolate lava cake with ice cream
Mike and our shared dessert
Mike and our shared dessert
La Luz Mexican restaurant
La Luz Mexican restaurant

Steps: 9,581; Miles 4.05. Weather Hi 86°, Lo 70°. Mostly cloudy.

Friday, September 27: On Friday morning, we enjoyed a poolside buffet breakfast at The Hava Ubud A Pramana Experience.

pool at The Hava Ubud A Pramana Experience
pool at The Hava Ubud A Pramana Experience
The Hava Ubud A Pramana Experience
The Hava Ubud A Pramana Experience
breakfast at The Hava Ubud A Pramana Experience
breakfast at The Hava Ubud A Pramana Experience
me at breakfast
me at breakfast

The Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA)

After breakfast, we took a Gojek to The Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA) in Ubud, which is at the southern end of Ubud. We were to the west of the center, and it usually didn’t pay to take any kind of vehicle into the town because of the gnarly traffic. However, since we got an early start, the traffic wasn’t too bad. We arrived at the museum before it had opened.

Founded by Agung Rai, a Balinese who devoted his life to the preservation and development of Balinese art and culture, the museum was officially opened on June 9, 1996.

The major goals of the ARMA Museum are, according to the website, to:

1) To collect and preserve artworks

2) To develop and preserve the art of painting, sculpture, dance, music, and various other cultural art forms

3) To provide means and infrastructure for the local society to learn various artistic skills.

ARMA
ARMA
me at ARMA
me at ARMA
Mike at ARMA
Mike at ARMA
Mike at ARMA
Mike at ARMA
the grounds of ARMA
the grounds of ARMA
entrance to the Bale Daja - Main Exhibition Area at ARMA
entrance to the Bale Daja – Main Exhibition Area at ARMA

We started our visit at the Bale Daja – Main Exhibition Area. In this area we found a huge cross-generational exhibition that served as a tribute to the painter I Nyoman Ngendon (c. 1913-1947). Ngendon was a key figure in the Batuan art movement. His works, characterized by their unique style and thematic depth, are revered in the art community. The exhibition sought to honor his contributions while showcasing the dynamic continuity of Batuan’s artistic tradition across generations.

The Batuan painting style, which originated in the village of Batuan south of Ubud, is intricate and rich with detail. Paintings can show a whole village and often reflect gods, temples, religious ceremonies, mythical illustrations, and everyday scenes from people’s lives.

The stories in the paintings can evolve, much as people’s lives do. Many intriguing paintings show multiple small scenes on the same canvas: people doing household chores, children playing, people participating in ceremonies, and sometimes historical events or tourists enjoying their vacations.

The collection ranges from traditional to contemporary, including classical Kamasan painting on tree bark, masterpieces by Batuan artists of the 1930s and 1940s and the only works to be seen on the island of Bali by 19th century Javanese artist Raden Saleh and Syarif Bustaman.

A couple of paintings were of interest in contemporary times. One, “Lion Floating Happily” by I Ketut Sadia (b. 1966), depicts an airplane accident of April 13, 2013: “An Indonesian plane carrying more than 100 passengers broke in two after missing the runway at Bali airport and landing in the sea, leaving dozens injured but no fatalities.”

Another depicts the sinking of the Titanic, in Balinese fashion. 🙂 “RMS Titanic” was painted in 2015 by I Ketut Sadia (b. 1966). The Titanic was the world’s largest and most luxurious ship at the time it launched. She was on her maiden voyage from Southampton to New York when she struck an iceberg off Newfoundland on the night of April 14, 1912 at 23:40 and sank in the morning of 15 April 1912. The painting depicts the iceberg and the sinking ship, but shows half-naked Balinese people coming to the rescue.

ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
Palau Bali 2014 by Wayan Bendi
Palau Bali 2014 by Wayan Bendi
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
Lumba - Lumba 2020 by Pande Made Martin
Lumba – Lumba 2020 by Pande Made Martin
ARMA
ARMA
Pemburu Surga 2021 by I Wayan Aris Samanta
Pemburu Surga 2021 by I Wayan Aris Samanta
Candi Mendut 2011 by I Gede Widiantara
Candi Mendut 2011 by I Gede Widiantara
Jalan Rusak 2023 by I Wayan Malik
Jalan Rusak 2023 by I Wayan Malik
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
Cremation Ceremony in Bali 2019 by Ni Nyoman Merti
Cremation Ceremony in Bali 2019 by Ni Nyoman Merti
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
Kamasan painting on tree bark
Kamasan painting on tree bark
Smara is Burnt to Death, Anonymous 2008
Smara is Burnt to Death, Anonymous 2008
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
Fisherman c. 1980s by Ida Bagus Nyoman Rai
Fisherman c. 1980s by Ida Bagus Nyoman Rai
Rajapala c. 1980s by Ida Bagus Nyoman Rai
Rajapala c. 1980s by Ida Bagus Nyoman Rai
Lion Floating Happily by I Ketut Sadia
Lion Floating Happily by I Ketut Sadia
RMS Titanic c. 2015 by I Ketut Sadia
RMS Titanic c. 2015 by I Ketut Sadia
ARMA
ARMA
Mandala c. 1980s by I Dewa Nyoman Batuan
Mandala c. 1980s by I Dewa Nyoman Batuan
Bubuk Syah and Gagak Aking c. 1970s by I Dewa Nyoman Leper
Bubuk Syah and Gagak Aking c. 1970s by I Dewa Nyoman Leper
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA

Foreign artists who lived and worked in Bali are represented by Willem Gerard Hofker, Rudolf Bonnet, and Willem Dooijewaard among others.

The works of German painter Walter Spies (1895-1942) have a special place in the collection because of his important contribution to the development of Balinese arts. He influenced Balinese art, along with his partner Dutch artist Rudolf Bonnet, through an artist cooperative which provided guidance to local painters and developed a market for their work. He met his early death when a ship carrying World War II deportees from Bali to Ceylon was bombed by the Japanese in 1942.

Village Street, 1929 by Walter Spies
Village Street, 1929 by Walter Spies
Preanger Landscape, 1923 by Walter Spies
Preanger Landscape, 1923 by Walter Spies
River Landscape with Herdsman and Cows, 1938 by Walter Spies
River Landscape with Herdsman and Cows, 1938 by Walter Spies

Visitors received a complimentary coffee or tea at the ARMA museum when they bought a ticket. We stopped for cool drinks in the coffee shop before tackling the Modern art at the museum. None of the museums in Bali were air conditioned, at least none that we encountered.

grounds of ARMA
grounds of ARMA
cafe at ARMA
cafe at ARMA
me in an Indonesian doorway
me in an Indonesian doorway
our young server at the cafe among orchids
our young server at the cafe among orchids
our cool resfreshing drinks
our cool resfreshing drinks
Mike and me at ARMA
Mike and me at ARMA
cafe at ARMA
cafe at ARMA

Prominent are works by Balinese masters such as I Gusti Nyoman Lempad, Ida Bagus Made, Anak Agung Gede Sobrat and I Gusti Made Deblog.

Modern Art collection
Modern Art collection
Wanita Malamun (Pensive Woman) by I Made Djima
Wanita Malamun (Pensive Woman) by I Made Djima
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
Portrait of Agung Rai Suartini by Srihadi Soedarsono
Portrait of Agung Rai Suartini by Srihadi Soedarsono
ARMA
ARMA
Pembakaran Mayat (Cremation) c. 1979 by Raden Roedyat Martadiradja
Pembakaran Mayat (Cremation) c. 1979 by Raden Roedyat Martadiradja
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
Bangsawan Jawa (Portrait of a Javanese Nobleman and His Wife, 1837, by Raden Saleh Sjarief Bustaman
Bangsawan Jawa (Portrait of a Javanese Nobleman and His Wife, 1837, by Raden Saleh Sjarief Bustaman
Harvest Season by Auke Cornelis Sonnega
Harvest Season by Auke Cornelis Sonnega
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
Priest by Genevieve Couteau
Priest by Genevieve Couteau
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA

I was enamored by one painting at ARMA, but I sadly don’t know the artist. The details of this huge painting are below.

img_6067

painting at ARMA

details of painting at ARMA
details of painting at ARMA
details of painting at ARMA
details of painting at ARMA
details of painting at ARMA
details of painting at ARMA
details of painting at ARMA
details of painting at ARMA
details of painting at ARMA
details of painting at ARMA

In a pavilion on the grounds, we found paintings done by teenagers. The grounds of the museum were lovely and we enjoyed strolling around.

Modern Art collection
Modern Art collection
ARMA grounds
ARMA grounds
pavilion at ARMA
pavilion at ARMA
Segara Renjanaa 2024 by Ni Luh Pratiwi
Segara Renjanaa 2024 by Ni Luh Pratiwi
ARMA
ARMA
ARMA pavilion
ARMA pavilion
ARMA grounds
ARMA grounds
ARMA pavilion
ARMA pavilion
ARMA grounds
ARMA grounds
ARMA grounds
ARMA grounds
Balinese man playing xylophone
Balinese man playing xylophone

With the ticket to the ARMA Museum, we were able to walk around the ARMA Resort, which was quite lovely.

ARMA Resort
ARMA Resort
ARMA Resort
ARMA Resort
ARMA Resort
ARMA Resort
lotus at ARMA Resort
lotus at ARMA Resort
ARMA Resort
ARMA Resort
ARMA Resort
ARMA Resort
ARMA Resort
ARMA Resort

Ubud Center

We waited a long time for a Gojek and by that time we had to wait in traffic to get to Ubud’s center. We stumbled quite by accident into the Café Lotus, where we found amazing views of the Ubud Water Palace without having to pay the entrance fee. We intended to go inside the actual Water Palace, but we were too tired and hot to attempt it on Friday. At the cafe, we enjoyed a yummy lunch of Indonesian spring rolls, Gado-Gado (Indonesian-style salad with steamed vegetables, tomato, fried bean cake, tofu, boiled egg, crackers and peanut sauce), and Spiced Pumpkin Soup.

After our wanders in Ubud’s center, we traipsed back to the hotel to enjoy the hot afternoon at the pool. We passed a warning sign for skinny people on the way to the hotel.

Café Lotus with view of Ubud Water Palace
Café Lotus with view of Ubud Water Palace
view of Ubud Water Palace from Café Lotus
view of Ubud Water Palace from Café Lotus
lunch at Café Lotus
lunch at Café Lotus
Indonesian spring rolls, Gado-Gado (Indonesian-style salad with steamed vegetables, tomato, fried bean cake, tofu, boiled egg, crackers and peanut sauce), and Spiced Pumpkin Soup
Indonesian spring rolls, Gado-Gado (Indonesian-style salad with steamed vegetables, tomato, fried bean cake, tofu, boiled egg, crackers and peanut sauce), and Spiced Pumpkin Soup
Mike at Café Lotus
Mike at Café Lotus
Spiced Pumpkin Soup
Spiced Pumpkin Soup
me at Café Lotus
me at Café Lotus
Gado-Gado (Indonesian-style salad with steamed vegetables, tomato, fried bean cake, tofu, boiled egg, crackers and peanut sauce)
Gado-Gado (Indonesian-style salad with steamed vegetables, tomato, fried bean cake, tofu, boiled egg, crackers and peanut sauce)
view of Ubud Water Palace from Café Lotus
view of Ubud Water Palace from Café Lotus
view of Ubud Water Palace from Café Lotus
view of Ubud Water Palace from Café Lotus
view of Ubud Water Palace from Café Lotus
view of Ubud Water Palace from Café Lotus
sign seen as we walked back to our hotel from Ubud's center
sign seen as we walked back to our hotel from Ubud’s center

The Hava Ubud

After lounging around at our hotel pool in the hot afternoon, we went out to Tygr Sushi for dinner. I enjoyed a dragon roll and Mike a HEAVENLY: Teriyaki Jackfruit, Cucumber, Tempura Asparagus / Marinated Tomato, Vegan Mayo, Crispy Sweet Potato. Mike got an ice cream for dessert: chocolate & mango.

Tygr Sushi
Tygr Sushi
Tygr Sushi
Tygr Sushi
dragon roll
dragon roll
HEAVENLY: Teriyaki Jackfruit, Cucumber, Tempura Asparagus / Marinated Tomato, Vegan Mayo, Crispy Sweet Potato
HEAVENLY: Teriyaki Jackfruit, Cucumber, Tempura Asparagus / Marinated Tomato, Vegan Mayo, Crispy Sweet Potato
Mike at Tygr Sushi
Mike at Tygr Sushi
pool at our hotel
pool at our hotel
me back at the hotel in my new $3 pants
me back at the hotel in my new $3 pants

Steps: 9,278; Miles 3.92. Weather Hi 86°, Lo 71°. Some rain.

Ubud Center: Ubud Palace, Ubud Water Palace, & Museum Puri Lukisan

Saturday, September 28: Saturday morning we caught a Gojek to the center of Ubud. After the driver dropped us off, we passed by a group of women making the many offerings to the gods that are seen throughout Bali. We also passed a huge parking area for motorbikes, ever ubiquitous in town.

women preparing offerings
women preparing offerings
motorcycle parking lot
motorcycle parking lot

We wandered through the Ubud Market, but we didn’t see anything of interest.

We wandered around Ubud Palace, or Puri Saren Agung, a royal palace built in the early 1800s. It is one of the oldest, most well-preserved palaces in the area. It was originally built to house Ubud’s royal family, but as time went on it became a cultural and artistic center. Visitors are only allowed to walk around in a small area and the temple in the complex is off-limits to tourists.

gamelan at Ubud Palace
gamelan at Ubud Palace
me at Ubud Palace
me at Ubud Palace
Ubud Palace, or  Puri Saren Agung
Ubud Palace, or  Puri Saren Agung
Ubud Palace
Ubud Palace
Ubud Palace
Ubud Palace
Ubud Palace
Ubud Palace
Mike at Ubud Palace
Mike at Ubud Palace
Ubud Palace
Ubud Palace

After Ubud Palace we properly visited Pura Taman Saraswati, officially Pura Taman Kemuda Saraswati, also known as the Ubud Water Palace. It is a Balinese Hindu temple in Ubud. The pura is dedicated to the goddess Sarasvati, revered as the goddess of knowledge, education, learning, arts, speech, poetry, music, purity, language and culture. Pura Taman Saraswati is notable for its lotus pond.

Visitors are required to wear a sarong and jacket so everyone there is wearing the same thing. It’s a fun place for photo ops but there really isn’t much to it other than the lotus pond and the cool palace architecture.

Mike at Pura Taman Saraswati, or Ubud Water Palace
Mike at Pura Taman Saraswati, or Ubud Water Palace
Mike at Ubud Water Palace
Mike at Ubud Water Palace
me at Ubud Water Palace
me at Ubud Water Palace
Ubud Water Palace
Ubud Water Palace
me at Ubud Water Palace
me at Ubud Water Palace
Ubud Water Palace
Ubud Water Palace
the king and queen at Ubud Water Palace
the king and queen at Ubud Water Palace
the king and queen at Ubud Water Palace
the king and queen at Ubud Water Palace
Ubud Water Palace
Ubud Water Palace
Mike at Ubud Water Palace
Mike at Ubud Water Palace
me at Ubud Water Palace
me at Ubud Water Palace

We stopped for a coffee at Café Lotus, where we continued to enjoy views of the Ubud Water Palace.

We visited Museum Puri Lukisan, set in a well-tended garden and showcasing some fabulous Balinese art. In front of the museum a Balinese dance was taking place for some kind of Palestinian support group. We had to walk past the performance to get to the museum, so we got to watch a bit of the performance.

Mike at our coffee break at Café Lotus
Mike at our coffee break at Café Lotus
Balinese dance
Balinese dance
Balinese dance
Balinese dance
Balinese dance
Balinese dance
Balinese dancers
Balinese dancers

Below is one of my favorite paintings from Museum Puri Lukisan with details. Sadly I didn’t get the artist information.

img_6285

a painting at Museum Puri Lukisan

Here are details from the painting.

details of painting at Museum Puri Lukisan
details of painting at Museum Puri Lukisan
details of painting at Museum Puri Lukisan
details of painting at Museum Puri Lukisan
details of painting at Museum Puri Lukisan
details of painting at Museum Puri Lukisan
details of painting at Museum Puri Lukisan
details of painting at Museum Puri Lukisan

Below is a sample of Balinese art from Museum Puri Lukisan in Ubud.

Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
painting by Walter Spies
painting by Walter Spies
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
Museum Puri Lukisan collection
grounds at Museum Puri Lukisan
grounds at Museum Puri Lukisan

We went to eat lunch after our visit to the museum. Mike felt like it was this lunch, or the ice in the drinks, that gave us stomach problems over the next several days.

me at lunch
me at lunch
our lunch
our lunch
Mike at lunch
Mike at lunch

Back to The Hava Ubud neighborhood: massages, yoga and pool time

We enjoyed deep tissue massages at 1:00 Saturday  at Sari Laba. We liked them so much, we booked massages for Sunday, our last day in Ubud, as well.

After our massages, we relaxed by the pool until time for our 4:00 yoga class.

masseuses at Sari Laba Traditional Massage
masseuses at Sari Laba Traditional Massage
Mike at Sari Laba Traditional Massage
Mike at Sari Laba Traditional Massage
pool at The Hava Ubud
pool at The Hava Ubud
pool at The Hava Ubud
pool at The Hava Ubud
pool at The Hava Ubud
pool at The Hava Ubud

We went to a restorative yoga “Air Class” at Alchemy. It was supposed to be for beginners but some of the challenging poses, held for way too long in my opinion, were too much for my stiff joints and especially my knees. Still, the experience had a nice ambiance.

Alchemy yoga studio
Alchemy yoga studio
restorative yoga “Air Class” at Alchemy
restorative yoga “Air Class” at Alchemy
me at Alchemy
me at Alchemy
Mike at Alchemy
Mike at Alchemy
Mike at Alchemy
Mike at Alchemy
me on the grounds of Alchemy
me on the grounds of Alchemy
Alchemy yoga studio
Alchemy yoga studio
me at the entrance to Alchemy
me at the entrance to Alchemy

We enjoyed our fanciest dinner in Ubud at Brie Restaurant & Cheesery.  A corn & prawn soup came out with fog rising mystically around it. I enjoyed burrata with zucchini pancakes and Mike got tagliatelle with smoked salmon. The staff was very cute with their black & white striped t-shirts and little black berets. They even did a coordinated dance to welcome all the guests. They had a singer on the 2nd floor (we were on the first). Downstairs we were serenaded by a playlist that included “Hamdouchia (Yamil Remix)” by Amine K (Moroko Loko) and “Free to Love” by Eighty Project. It was an upscale experience but Mike thought it was rather overrated and expensive.

appetizer at tagliatelle with smoked salmon
appetizer at tagliatelle with smoked salmon
corn & prawn soup
corn & prawn soup
Mike at Brie Restaurant & Cheesery
Mike at Brie Restaurant & Cheesery
tagliatelle with smoked salmon
tagliatelle with smoked salmon
me at Brie Restaurant & Cheesery
me at Brie Restaurant & Cheesery
burrata with zucchini pancakes
burrata with zucchini pancakes
singer at Brie Restaurant & Cheesery
singer at Brie Restaurant & Cheesery

Steps: 7,693; Miles 3.25. Weather Hi 87°, Lo 73°. Some rain.

Ceking Rice Terrace, aka Tegalalang Rice Terrace

Sunday, September 29: Sunday morning, our last morning in Bali, we enjoyed our last leisurely breakfast at the pool. We would be leaving for the airport at around 8:00 p.m. for our 12:20 a.m. flight on Monday morning, so we had kept our room for 4 nights so that we could rest and take a nap in the afternoon before our overnight flight. Thus we could relax in our room or at the pool.

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breakfast bar at The Hava Ubud

After breakfast, we went about a half-hour north of Ubud to Ceking Rice Terrace, aka Tegalalang Rice Terrace. This is really a small and touristy rice terrace, with all kinds of swings and photo settings. The site doesn’t even come close to the Longji Rice Terraces in Guangxi, China, the best I have seen in all my travels around Asia.

Tegalalang Rice Terrace has been cited as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I found it quite a disappointment as it was small and too touristy for me.

A traditional irrigation system is still being used in the terraces today. It was started in the 8th century. The water comes from surrounding rivers & mountains. Farmers built water canals to allow the water to flow from one field to the other.

entrance to Ceking Rice Terrace, aka Tegalalang Rice Terrace
entrance to Ceking Rice Terrace, aka Tegalalang Rice Terrace
Ceking Rice Terrace, aka Tegalalang Rice Terrace
Ceking Rice Terrace, aka Tegalalang Rice Terrace
Ceking Rice Terrace, aka Tegalalang Rice Terrace
Ceking Rice Terrace, aka Tegalalang Rice Terrace
me at a photo spot at Ceking Rice Terrace, aka Tegalalang Rice Terrace
me at a photo spot at Ceking Rice Terrace, aka Tegalalang Rice Terrace
another corny photo
another corny photo
Ceking Rice Terrace, aka Tegalalang Rice Terrace
Ceking Rice Terrace, aka Tegalalang Rice Terrace
Ceking Rice Terrace, aka Tegalalang Rice Terrace
Ceking Rice Terrace, aka Tegalalang Rice Terrace
Ceking Rice Terrace, aka Tegalalang Rice Terrace
Ceking Rice Terrace, aka Tegalalang Rice Terrace
Ceking Rice Terrace, aka Tegalalang Rice Terrace
Ceking Rice Terrace, aka Tegalalang Rice Terrace
Ceking Rice Terrace, aka Tegalalang Rice Terrace
Ceking Rice Terrace, aka Tegalalang Rice Terrace
Ceking Rice Terrace, aka Tegalalang Rice Terrace
Ceking Rice Terrace, aka Tegalalang Rice Terrace
Ceking Rice Terrace, aka Tegalalang Rice Terrace
Ceking Rice Terrace, aka Tegalalang Rice Terrace
Ceking Rice Terrace, aka Tegalalang Rice Terrace
Ceking Rice Terrace, aka Tegalalang Rice Terrace
Ceking Rice Terrace, aka Tegalalang Rice Terrace
Ceking Rice Terrace, aka Tegalalang Rice Terrace
Ceking Rice Terrace, aka Tegalalang Rice Terrace
Ceking Rice Terrace, aka Tegalalang Rice Terrace

Nestled at the base of Mount Batukaru in the central highlands, the Jatiluwih rice terraces are supposedly more impressive than the Tegalalang terraces. They are a full 600 hectares. However, getting there would have been a 1 1/2 hour drive each way from Ubud. We’d already spent enough time driving around on Bali’s congested & derelict roads, so we didn’t make the trek to Jatiluwih.

Instead we spent the rest of the day having a nice lunch at Alchemy, getting massages again, sitting by the pool, and finally relaxing in our room in preparation for our overnight flight back to Narita in Japan.

Departing Ubud and returning to Narita, Japan

We left for Bali’s airport in Denpasar directly from Ubud, which was about a 2 hour drive in the congested traffic. Our flight back to Japan was at 12:20 a.m. on Monday, September 30, but of course we had to arrive Sunday night by 9:20. There was utter chaos at the Bali airport. I wore the Tsumagojuku t-shirt I bought in the Japan Alps when we were there in mid-September. I wanted something comfortable so that I could hopefully sleep on the plane.

img_6495

me in my Tsumagojuku t-shirt at the Denpasar Bali Airport

Steps: 10,381; Miles 4.39. Weather Hi 87°, Lo 73°. Partly cloudy.

Monday, September 30: We boarded our Garuda Indonesia flight and took off around 12:20 a.m. bound for Narita, Japan. I was so happy to be returning to Japan after dealing with the chaos and endless heat and humidity of Bali. I believe overall that Bali is overhyped and after visiting there, I have pretty much sworn off any more of southeast Asia. I’ve been already to Myanmar (my favorite), Vietnam, Thailand, Cambodia (another favorite), India, Singapore, and now Bali, and everywhere I’ve been has been hot, humid, & chaotic (Singapore wasn’t chaotic but was miserably hot and humid). However, that being said, I have always found the food in southeast Asia to be excellent, especially in Vietnam, Thailand, and Cambodia. The food scene in Ubud was especially good, with much ethnic diversity and vegetarian and vegan options. I adored the art and palaces (architecture) in Bali, but it was frustrating that there was rarely a place to escape the heat, even in museums.

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  • Asia
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sidemen, bali: of palaces, rice fields & relaxing vibes

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 December 11, 2024
Jimbaran to Semarapura: The Klungkung Palace

Monday, September 23, 2024: We left the Movenpick in Jimbaran at 9:00 a.m. Monday and began our two-hour traffic-congested drive to Sidemen on Bali’s east side, where we planned to spend three nights. Our driver Katur made an agreed-upon stop for us at The Klungkung Palace, officially Puri Agung Semarapura, a historical building complex situated in Semarapura, the capital of the Klungkung Regency (kabupaten).

The palace (puri) was erected at the end of the 17th century, but largely destroyed during the Dutch colonial conquest of 1908. Today the basic remains of the palace are the court of justice, the Kertha Gosa Pavilion, and the main gate that bears the date Saka 1622 (AD 1700). Within the old palace compound is also a floating pavilion, the Bale Kembang. The descendants of the rajas that once ruled Klungkung today live in Puri Agung, a residence to the west of the old palace, which was built after 1929.

We were easy targets for the insistent touts who successfully sold us sarongs, which we wore for our photos despite them not really being necessary. It was hot as always, but I loved the palace and its many water elements and architecture. And it wasn’t crowded at all, which made it all the more appealing.

Klungkung Palace
Klungkung Palace
Klungkung Palace
Klungkung Palace
floating pavilion, Bale Kembang, at Klungkung Palace
floating pavilion, Bale Kembang, at Klungkung Palace
floating pavilion, Bale Kembang, at Klungkung Palace
floating pavilion, Bale Kembang, at Klungkung Palace
floating pavilion, Bale Kembang, at Klungkung Palace
floating pavilion, Bale Kembang, at Klungkung Palace
Mike in sarong at Klungkung Palace
Mike in sarong at Klungkung Palace
floating pavilion, Bale Kembang, at Klungkung Palace
floating pavilion, Bale Kembang, at Klungkung Palace
Klungkung Palace
Klungkung Palace
Mike at Klungkung Palace
Mike at Klungkung Palace
me at Klungkung Palace
me at Klungkung Palace
Klungkung Palace
Klungkung Palace
ceiling in pavilion at Klungkung Palace
ceiling in pavilion at Klungkung Palace
ceiling in pavilion at Klungkung Palace
ceiling in pavilion at Klungkung Palace
view from the pavilion at Klungkung Palace
view from the pavilion at Klungkung Palace
detailed carvings in pavilion
detailed carvings in pavilion
Klungkung Palace
Klungkung Palace
Klungkung Palace
Klungkung Palace
Klungkung Palace
Klungkung Palace
floating pavilion, Bale Kembang, at Klungkung Palace
floating pavilion, Bale Kembang, at Klungkung Palace
me with Mike at Klungkung Palace
me with Mike at Klungkung Palace
Klungkung Palace
Klungkung Palace

We did a quick walk-through of the small Museum Semarajaya on the palace grounds. I recognized the kris (special swords), which I’d read about in the 1937 novel Love and Death in Bali by Vicki Baum. The kris is a Javanese asymmetrical dagger famous for its distinctive wavy blade, although many have straight blades as well; it is one of the weapons commonly used in the pencak silat martial art native to Indonesia. The novel I had read told a fictional account of the Dutch invasion in 1906 and the resultant mass suicide, or puputan, when the three princes of Badung realized they were outgunned and outnumbered by the Dutch and decided rather than surrender and become subjugated to the Dutch, they burned their palaces, dressed in their finest white clothing, and charged the Dutch with their ceremonial golden kris. It was a slaughter and, in all, 4,000 Balinese people died, either gunned down by the Dutch or taking matters into their own hands by plunging their kris into their children, wives and themselves.

We also saw one of the xylophones, which are used in the gamelan: a traditional Indonesian percussion orchestra, which consists of ornate, percussive instruments made of hand-forged metal. The ensemble typically includes xylophones, gongs, gong-chimes, drums, cymbals, string instruments and bamboo flutes.

Museum Semarajaya
Museum Semarajaya
Museum Semarajaya
Museum Semarajaya
samples of the kris at Museum Semarajaya
samples of the kris at Museum Semarajaya
Museum Semarajaya
Museum Semarajaya
Museum Semarajaya
Museum Semarajaya
xylophone used in the gamelan at Museum Semarajaya
xylophone used in the gamelan at Museum Semarajaya
Museum Semarajaya
Museum Semarajaya
Museum Semarajaya
Museum Semarajaya
Museum Semarajaya
Museum Semarajaya
Museum Semarajaya
Museum Semarajaya
Museum Semarajaya
Museum Semarajaya
Museum Semarajaya
Museum Semarajaya

Before leaving, we walked to a pavilion on the corner of the palace complex where we saw another beautifully decorated ceiling and a famous statue, possibly memorializing the puputan, in a circle on the street.

Klungkung Palace
Klungkung Palace
ceiling in pavilion at Klungkung Palace
ceiling in pavilion at Klungkung Palace
famous statue
famous statue

Sidemen, Bali

We arrived at the Alamdhari Resort & Spa in Sidemen too early to check in, so we had lunch. Later it rained a bit and cooled off, so I took a nap in our room while Mike swam some short laps in the pool.

At 5:00 we had massages that were wonderfully relaxing.

Alamdhari Resort & Spa
Alamdhari Resort & Spa
our room at Alamdhari Resort & Spa
our room at Alamdhari Resort & Spa
our balcony at Alamdhari Resort & Spa
our balcony at Alamdhari Resort & Spa
Alamdhari Resort & Spa
Alamdhari Resort & Spa
Alamdhari Resort & Spa
Alamdhari Resort & Spa
Alamdhari Resort & Spa
Alamdhari Resort & Spa
Alamdhari Resort & Spa
Alamdhari Resort & Spa
Alamdhari Resort & Spa
Alamdhari Resort & Spa

We spent a lovely evening in the open air on-site Dedhari Restaurant: We enjoyed Mahi Mahi with cream sauce, Tom Yum soup, an Arak for Mike and glass of white wine for me.  We topped off our meal with fried bananas and chocolate ice cream (because they were out of vanilla).

The ambiance was lovely and we were serenaded by a playlist of songs that included: “Trouble is a Friend” by Lenka and “Beautiful Things” by Benson Boone.

Mike with Balinese shirt with the staff at Dedhari Restaurant
Mike with Balinese shirt with the staff at Dedhari Restaurant
Mike and me at Dedhari Restaurant
Mike and me at Dedhari Restaurant
Mahi Mahi with cream sauce
Mahi Mahi with cream sauce
salad at Dedhari Restaurant
salad at Dedhari Restaurant
Tom Yum Soup
Tom Yum Soup
Mike enjoying our dessert
Mike enjoying our dessert
fried bananas and chocolate ice cream
fried bananas and chocolate ice cream

Finally, for the first time in all the time we’d been traveling, we enjoyed a comfortable night temperature-wise. I was finally in my happy place. 😊😊 And the grounds of our hotel were magnificent.

Note Mike’s Balinese shirt. He got it at Kungklung Palace where the lady touts wouldn’t let him rest until he bought not one, but two: for $13 each!

Steps: 5,996; Miles 2.53. Weather Sidemen: Hi 90°, Lo 70°. Partly cloudy.

Tuesday, September 24: Tuesday morning we went for a 2 1/2 hour walk through the rice fields of Sidemen with local guide Kadek (there are many men named Kadek in Bali because the name means “second son”).

There was a big festival taking place for two days that was a semi-annual festival, Galungan, so Kadek told us everyone would return home on Wednesday to celebrate with their families. We could see the decorations in the street as we walked to the rice fields. Penjor, the arched traditional Balinese decorations made from bamboo poles, and adorned with colorful cloth, flowers, coconut tree leaves, and intricate carves, were displayed on the streets of Sidemen for the festival. These symbolize offerings to the gods; they welcome the gods to the celebrations.

sunrise view off our balcony
sunrise view off our balcony
Penjor on the streets of Sidemen
Penjor on the streets of Sidemen
offerings for Galungan
offerings for Galungan

We learned about the irrigation systems (much like Oman’s falaj system). Kadek told us plastics and trash are a big problem because they infiltrate the irrigation systems. He said the government doesn’t do much to help the plight of the people even though they pay taxes.

He was married with two children and worked not only as a guide but for the hotel in various capacities. He also had to help tend his family’s rice fields.

irrigation system in rice terraces in Sidemen
irrigation system in rice terraces in Sidemen
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
irrigation system in rice terraces in Sidemen
irrigation system in rice terraces in Sidemen
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Mike and Kadek
Mike and Kadek
river in Sidemen
river in Sidemen
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Kadek and me
Kadek and me
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces
Sidemen rice terraces & the yoga studio at the top of the hill
Sidemen rice terraces & the yoga studio at the top of the hill

We were plenty hot by the time our walk ended so we promptly went for a dip in the pool and then had pizza and Tom Yum soup for lunch before our scheduled yoga session.

It rained for a while this afternoon, but it didn’t stop us going to our 2:00 yoga class. Today I stretched some parts that hadn’t been stretched in quite a while. Yikes!

At lunch, music created a mellow vibe including: “Rockabye (feat. Sean Paul & Anne-Marie)” by Clean Bandit and “Battle Scars (feat. Lupe Fiasco)” by Guy Sebastian.

walkway at Alamdhari Resort & Spa
walkway at Alamdhari Resort & Spa
Mike in the pool
Mike in the pool
our room was the top left of this building
our room was the top left of this building
pool at Alamdhari Resort & Spa
pool at Alamdhari Resort & Spa
me in the pool
me in the pool
Dedhari Restaurant on site
Dedhari Restaurant on site
Alamdhari Resort & Spa
Alamdhari Resort & Spa
pizza for lunch
pizza for lunch
Tom Yum soup for lunch
Tom Yum soup for lunch
yoga teacher
yoga teacher
yoga studio at Alamdhari Resort & Spa
yoga studio at Alamdhari Resort & Spa
rice fields on our walk from the yoga studio
rice fields on our walk from the yoga studio
rice fields on our walk from the yoga studio
rice fields on our walk from the yoga studio
hotel view from our room
hotel view from our room
view of Mount Agung
view of Mount Agung

We enjoyed dream-inducing “Balinese” massages at 5:00. Then we went to dinner at the resort restaurant. I enjoyed Pad Thai with tofu while Mike had “BABI KECAP: SAUTED PORK IN SWEET SOYA SAUCE, SERVED WITH RICE & URABAN.”

We enjoyed a remix by Spike Stent of “Trouble is a Friend” by Lenka. We loved the music and the gentle and welcoming service in this open air restaurant.

massage studio at Alhamdari
massage studio at Alhamdari
Mike at Dedhari Restaurant for dinner
Mike at Dedhari Restaurant for dinner
me at dinner
me at dinner
BABI KECAP: SAUTED PORK IN SWEET SOYA SAUCE, SERVED WITH RICE & URABAN
BABI KECAP: SAUTED PORK IN SWEET SOYA SAUCE, SERVED WITH RICE & URABAN
Pad Thai with tofu
Pad Thai with tofu
me with Mike at Dedhari Restaurant
me with Mike at Dedhari Restaurant

Steps: 11,887; Miles 5.03. Weather: Hi 90°, Lo 70°. Sunny.

Wednesday, September 25: Today was the principal day of Bali’s important festival, Galungan, which usually runs for around ten days at various locations around Bali. It occurs twice a year in April and September. At the festival’s core is the celebration of good and overcoming evil, the victory of Dharma and the defeat of Adharma.

Ancestral spirits return to their former homes, and the locals are expected to demonstrate kindness by making offerings and chanting prayers. Locals decorate the streets with bamboo poles, locally referred to as penjor; they are used to hang offerings as a kind gesture towards the spirits.

In addition, offerings consist of special foods, scented flowers, and woven palm offerings. These sacrifices are offered at home and at the local temples (referred to as pura). Women carry their offerings on their heads, while men carry palm leaves to the temple.

At the end of the celebrations, the ancestral spirits return to their home, marked by offerings of yellow rice to mark the end of Galungan.

Kadek making offerings for Galungan at Alamdhari Resort & Spa
Kadek making offerings for Galungan at Alamdhari Resort & Spa
Kadek making offerings for Galungan at Alamdhari Resort & Spa
Kadek making offerings for Galungan at Alamdhari Resort & Spa

Tirta Gangga

We went on an excursion today with a driver, Kadek, another 2nd son but a different Kadek than our rice field guide from yesterday. We were meant to go to 1) Tirta Gangga, 2) the White Sand Beach (aka Virgin Beach or Pasir Putih), 3) Tenganan Village and 4) Goa Lawlah Temple.

On our drive to Tirta Gangga, we had some magnificent views of Bali’s countryside.

Bali's countryside north of Sidemen
Bali’s countryside north of Sidemen
Bali's countryside north of Sidemen with Mount Agung in the background
Bali’s countryside north of Sidemen with Mount Agung in the background
Balinese woman
Balinese woman
Bali's countryside north of Sidemen
Bali’s countryside north of Sidemen
Bali's countryside north of Sidemen
Bali’s countryside north of Sidemen
Bali's countryside north of Sidemen
Bali’s countryside north of Sidemen
Bali's countryside north of Sidemen
Bali’s countryside north of Sidemen
Bali's countryside north of Sidemen
Bali’s countryside north of Sidemen
Bali's countryside north of Sidemen with Mount Agung in the background
Bali’s countryside north of Sidemen with Mount Agung in the background

Our first stop, and the best of the day by far, was Tirta Gangga, a former royal palace in eastern Bali. Named after the sacred river Ganges in India, it is noted for its Karangasem royal water palace, bathing pools and its Patirthan temple.

The complex was built in 1946 by the last king of Karangsem I Gusti Bagus Jelantik. Tirta Gangga was intended as a recreation place for the king and his family. It was destroyed almost entirely by the eruption of nearby Mount Agung in 1963.

Mike and me at Tirta Gangga
Mike and me at Tirta Gangga
Tirta Gangga
Tirta Gangga
Tirta Gangga
Tirta Gangga
me at Tirta Gangga
me at Tirta Gangga
me at Tirta Gangga
me at Tirta Gangga
Mike at Tirta Gangga
Mike at Tirta Gangga
Mike at Tirta Gangga
Mike at Tirta Gangga
Mike at Tirta Gangga
Mike at Tirta Gangga
Tirta Gangga
Tirta Gangga
Tirta Gangga
Tirta Gangga
Tirta Gangga
Tirta Gangga
Tirta Gangga
Tirta Gangga
Balinese family at Tirta Gangga
Balinese family at Tirta Gangga
Tirta Gangga
Tirta Gangga
Tirta Gangga
Tirta Gangga
Tirta Gangga
Tirta Gangga
koi at Tirta Gangga
koi at Tirta Gangga
Tirta Gangga
Tirta Gangga
Tirta Gangga
Tirta Gangga
me at Tirta Gangga
me at Tirta Gangga
Tirta Gangga
Tirta Gangga
Mike at Tirta Gangga
Mike at Tirta Gangga
Tirta Gangga
Tirta Gangga
Balinese women at Tirta Gangga
Balinese women at Tirta Gangga
Mike and me at Tirta Gangga
Mike and me at Tirta Gangga
Tirta Gangga
Tirta Gangga
Tirta Gangga
Tirta Gangga
Mike at Tirta Gangga
Mike at Tirta Gangga
me at Tirta Gangga
me at Tirta Gangga

On the way from Tirta Gangga to the White Sand Beach, we glimpsed Balinese villagers leaving a temple during Galungan.

Balinese villagers leaving the temple for Galungan
Balinese villagers leaving the temple for Galungan
Balinese villagers leaving the temple for Galungan
Balinese villagers leaving the temple for Galungan
field of flowers
field of flowers

White Sand Beach (aka Virgin Beach or Pasir Putih)

Our second stop on today’s excursion was the White Sand Beach (aka Virgin Beach or Pasir Putih). It wasn’t all that much and of course I had already put in my beach time. We sat in a beach cafe and had an iced coffee. It was getting HOT!

White Sand Beach (aka Virgin Beach or Pasir Putih)
White Sand Beach (aka Virgin Beach or Pasir Putih)
White Sand Beach (aka Virgin Beach or Pasir Putih)
White Sand Beach (aka Virgin Beach or Pasir Putih)
offerings at White Sand Beach
offerings at White Sand Beach
White Sand Beach (aka Virgin Beach or Pasir Putih)
White Sand Beach (aka Virgin Beach or Pasir Putih)

Le-Zat Beach Restaurant

We stopped for lunch at Le-Zat Beach Restaurant. We liked the display with the rice shaped like the nearby volcano, Mount Agung. I enjoyed a super refreshing cucumber drink.

Le-Zat Beach Restaurant
Le-Zat Beach Restaurant
cucumber drink at Le-Zat Beach Restaurant
cucumber drink at Le-Zat Beach Restaurant
volcano rice like Mount Agung at Le-Zat Beach Restaurant
volcano rice like Mount Agung at Le-Zat Beach Restaurant
Le-Zat Beach Restaurant
Le-Zat Beach Restaurant
Mike at Le-Zat Beach Restaurant
Mike at Le-Zat Beach Restaurant
offerings at Le-Zat Beach Restaurant
offerings at Le-Zat Beach Restaurant
view from Le-Zat Beach Restaurant
view from Le-Zat Beach Restaurant

Tenganan Pegringsingan

Our last stop was Tenganan Pegringsingan, a viilage in East Bali. It is known for the gringsingor geringsing, double ikat textiles woven in only three places in the world. The demanding technique is only practiced in parts of India, Japan and Indonesia. In Indonesia it is confined to the village of Tenganan.

The village is also known for its gamelan selunding music played on iron metallophones.

Houses in Tenganan Pegringsingan village are built on either side of the uphill to downhill concourse with their doors opening onto it. The entrances of the houses are narrow, only allowing one person to enter or leave at any one time. Entrance to and exit from the village is through the gate at the downhill end. On either side of the entrance are two small temples. Our walk through the town was miserably hot.

Tenganan Pegringsingan
Tenganan Pegringsingan
for sale at Tenganan Pegringsingan
for sale at Tenganan Pegringsingan
for sale at Tenganan Pegringsingan
for sale at Tenganan Pegringsingan
colored eggs at Tenganan Pegringsingan
colored eggs at Tenganan Pegringsingan
Tenganan Pegringsingan
Tenganan Pegringsingan
Tenganan Pegringsingan
Tenganan Pegringsingan
Tenganan Pegringsingan
Tenganan Pegringsingan
me sweltering at Tenganan Pegringsingan
me sweltering at Tenganan Pegringsingan
Tenganan Pegringsingan
Tenganan Pegringsingan
Tenganan Pegringsingan
Tenganan Pegringsingan
Tenganan Pegringsingan
Tenganan Pegringsingan
Tenganan Pegringsingan
Tenganan Pegringsingan
Tenganan Pegringsingan
Tenganan Pegringsingan
Tenganan Pegringsingan
Tenganan Pegringsingan
Tenganan Pegringsingan
Tenganan Pegringsingan
lizards at Tenganan Pegringsingan
lizards at Tenganan Pegringsingan
masks at Tenganan Pegringsingan
masks at Tenganan Pegringsingan

a drive-by of Goa Lawah Temple

We decided to skip the last stop on our excursion today, Goa Lawah Temple, because we were told it would be very crowded due to today’s ceremonies. Plus we were hot and tired and wanted to enjoy the pool for one last afternoon before heading to Ubud on Thursday. I took this photo of a statue near the temple before driving another 45 minutes to Sidemen.

fullsizeoutput_3055d

monument at Goa Lawah Temple

Sidemen

We had our last dinner at Dedhari Restaurant at the hotel. The second dish in this gallery was one of my favorites encountered in Bali: Uruban or Sayur Urab, a bunch of boiled fresh vegetables, which after cooling slightly are tossed in a fried seasoning mixture. This dish is served cold or at room temperature and is spicy, tasty, and full of well-balanced flavors.

Mike had his Arak on the rocks and I my usual glass of wine. I ordered Pad Thai with tofu and Mike got pork skewers on rice with uruban. When I told the waiter how much I loved uruban, he brought me a dish of it even though it wasn’t included in my meal.

Mike drinking Arak
Mike drinking Arak
Uruban or Sayur Urab
Uruban or Sayur Urab
me with uruban - YUM!
me with uruban – YUM!
pork skewers on rice with uruban
pork skewers on rice with uruban
Pad Thai with tofu
Pad Thai with tofu

This would be our last night in Sidemen. We would move to Ubud on Thursday and would spend three full nights there before heading back to Japan on Monday morning at 12:20 a.m.

Steps: 7,033; Miles 2.97. Weather: Hi 90°, Lo 70°. Sunny.

Thursday, September 26:  On Thursday morning, we enjoyed our final views of Mount Agung from our room at Alamdhari Resort & Spa.

final views of Mount Agung from Alamdhari Resort & Spa
final views of Mount Agung from Alamdhari Resort & Spa
final views of Mount Agung from Alamdhari Resort & Spa
final views of Mount Agung from Alamdhari Resort & Spa
final views from Alamdhari Resort & Spa
final views from Alamdhari Resort & Spa

We headed to Ubud for our last stay (3 full nights) in Bali.

We were sad to leave this area, which was by far our favorite part of Bali. It was less crowded, with beautiful landscapes and a laid-back vibe. I had been looking forward to stay in Ubud, but it would turn out to be way too chaotic for us. If we ever went back to Bali again, which we won’t, we would recommend staying far away from any of the big tourist spots, resorts and towns.

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  • Asia
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around & about jimbaran, bali

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 December 4, 2024
Narita, Tokyo to Denpasar, Bali to Jimbaran

Friday, September 20, 2024: We left Narita right on time; the doors to the plane were closed at 10:45 a.m. and we took off directly at 11:00. The total distance to Bali from Narita, Japan was 5,677 km, or 3,527.5 miles. Mike and I sat on the right side of the plane in two seats: he at the window and me in the aisle seat, 25 K & H.

Mike and I shared an onigiri with tuna mayonnaise and a small can of Pringles. I read some of my book, All the Lives We Never Lived by Anuradha Roy. None of the movies interested me. The flight attendants were beautiful, gentle and kind (Indonesian I think). They wore brightly colored skirts and tops made of gorgeous fabric. They were a breath of fresh air after the black/white/navy & beige styles of the Japanese. I used my new trtl pillow and took a Valium after lunch. I may have slept about 2-3 hours. 

We flew into Denpasar Airport (Ngurah Rai International Airport) in Bali after our 7 1/2 hour flight at around 5:15 p.m., earlier than expected. We then had to go through a health check, Visa on Arrival, Immigration and Customs. We had arranged a ride to the Movenpick Resort & Spa Jimbaran Bali through Bali Fast Track. The traffic coming out of the airport was crazy. It felt like we were driving in the middle of Bangkok! 

approaching Bali
approaching Bali
lunch on Garuda Indonesia
lunch on Garuda Indonesia
lunch on Garuda Indonesia
lunch on Garuda Indonesia
Getting close
Getting close
Denpasar Airport
Denpasar Airport
mural at Denpasar Airport
mural at Denpasar Airport
mural at Denpasar Airport
mural at Denpasar Airport
Denpasar Airport
Denpasar Airport
Denpasar Airport
Denpasar Airport
Denpasar Airport
Denpasar Airport
traffic circle passed on the way to the Movenpick
traffic circle passed on the way to the Movenpick
Jimbaran

We checked into Movenpick Resort & Spa Jimbaran Bali on Friday evening around 7:00 p.m. We’re not normally resort-type people but there were several reasons we picked this for our first stop in Bali, having to do with our late-ish arrival time and its proximity to the airport, its relative proximity to Uluwatu and its attached big stretch of beach (for Mike). I personally could care less about the beach.

We promptly went out in search of dinner at an adjacent outdoor shopping mall with many eateries. We found a pizza place called Pepenero and got some small pizzas and the local beer, Bintang.

While Mike was paying, I got up to walk out of the restaurant and ran full force into the glass pane to the left of the door (the photo after the pizza shows the spot but in this view it’s the pane to the right) It was a full-on head bang that made a loud noise and I yelled, “What the heck??!!” It startled everyone in the restaurant. I hadn’t realized it wasn’t the doorway.🤣🤣 I felt sorry for the glass because my hard head didn’t feel a thing!

Movenpick Resort & Spa Jimbaran Bali
Movenpick Resort & Spa Jimbaran Bali
Bintang, the local beer
Bintang, the local beer
pizza at Pepenero
pizza at Pepenero
the entrance to Pepenero. I ran into the glass to the right of the door!
the entrance to Pepenero. I ran into the glass to the right of the door!

Steps: 6,757; Miles 2.86. Weather in Denpasar: Hi 89°, Lo 73°. Partly cloudy.

Saturday, September 21: The breakfast Saturday morning was astounding, with what seemed like hundreds of choices, but we grabbed all of our breakfast at the first omelette station without checking out the many options. We would know better on Sunday!

This was a place with lots of families, most of them Aussies. I loved hearing their accents all around. It was pretty convenient for them to come to Bali as it’s only a 2-3 hour flight. We hadn’t run into any Americans.

Movenpick Resort & Spa Jimbaran Bali
Movenpick Resort & Spa Jimbaran Bali
breakfast at Movenpick Resort & Spa Jimbaran Bali
breakfast at Movenpick Resort & Spa Jimbaran Bali
breakfast area at Movenpick Resort & Spa Jimbaran Bali
breakfast area at Movenpick Resort & Spa Jimbaran Bali
a walk around the grounds of Movenpick Resort & Spa Jimbaran Bali
a walk around the grounds of Movenpick Resort & Spa Jimbaran Bali
Movenpick Resort & Spa Jimbaran Bali
Movenpick Resort & Spa Jimbaran Bali
Movenpick Resort & Spa Jimbaran Bali
Movenpick Resort & Spa Jimbaran Bali
Movenpick Resort & Spa Jimbaran Bali
Movenpick Resort & Spa Jimbaran Bali
Movenpick Resort & Spa Jimbaran Bali
Movenpick Resort & Spa Jimbaran Bali
Movenpick Resort & Spa Jimbaran Bali
Movenpick Resort & Spa Jimbaran Bali
Movenpick Resort & Spa Jimbaran Bali
Movenpick Resort & Spa Jimbaran Bali
Mike and me in the lobby of the Movenpick
Mike and me in the lobby of the Movenpick
Nusa Dua & Museum Pasifika

Saturday morning we took a Gojek taxi from our hotel in Jimbaran, which sits at the western neck of the Bukit Peninsula, to Nusa Dua, a popular resort area in Bali along the southeastern coast in the Bukit Peninsula.

We wandered around an upscale outdoor shopping mall, Bali Collection. We seemed to be going around in circles for a long time, looking in vain for the Museum Pasifika.

Bali Collection
Bali Collection
offerings in front of a shop
offerings in front of a shop
shop at Bali Collection
shop at Bali Collection

We eventually made our way to the Museum Pasifika. The museum had no air conditioning so our goal to escape the heat for an hour or two proved to be sadly elusive.

Museum Pasifika
Museum Pasifika
Museum Pasifika
Museum Pasifika
Museum Pasifika
Museum Pasifika

Museum Pasifika features 600 artworks of 200 artists from Indonesia, Pacific Island, Polynesia, Indochina, Asia and European countries. We walked through pavilions to see the impressive collection of historical and masterpiece paintings and sculptures. The art was colorful and tropical and captured the South Pacific vibe.

We started in a section with various Balinese and Italian painters.

Balinese Girls by Anton Huang 1978
Balinese Girls by Anton Huang 1978
The Harvest by Dewa Putu Bedil 1985
The Harvest by Dewa Putu Bedil 1985
Javanese Woman by Hendra Gunawan (Undated)
Javanese Woman by Hendra Gunawan (Undated)
Sitting Girl by Sudarso 1980
Sitting Girl by Sudarso 1980
The Temple of Besakih by Renato Cristiano 1995
The Temple of Besakih by Renato Cristiano 1995
Javanese Landscape by P.A. Garriazo 1939
Javanese Landscape by P.A. Garriazo 1939
Balinese Market Scene by Emilio Ambron 1939
Balinese Market Scene by Emilio Ambron 1939

There was an entire section by Dutch-Indonesian artist Arie Smit (1916-2016). Born in the Netherlands in 1916, he was captured by the Japanese during World War II and spent three years doing forced labor in Burma, building civil structures and architecture. When he was released in 1945, he went to what was then the Republic  of Indonesia and became an Indonesian citizen. In 1956, he went to Bali and spent the rest of his life there. His art was heavily influenced by three Pauls:  Signac, Gauguin and Cézanne.

I loved these colorful paintings.

Villagers Working the Quarry by Arie Smit 2000
Villagers Working the Quarry by Arie Smit 2000
Villagers Girl Followed by Two Dogs by Arie Smit 2002
Villagers Girl Followed by Two Dogs by Arie Smit 2002
Women with Offering in Twilight by Arie Smit 1999
Women with Offering in Twilight by Arie Smit 1999
Three Girls with Offering by Arie Smit 2003
Three Girls with Offering by Arie Smit 2003
Sanur Sea by Arie Smit 2000
Sanur Sea by Arie Smit 2000

Then we found more wonderful paintings by Dutch, Austrian, French, Belgian, German, Australian and Mexican artists. I especially loved the magnificent painting: Women Offering to the Sacred Pond by Adrien-Jean Le Mayeur 1948.

img_4740-1

Women Offering to the Sacred Pond by Adrien-Jean Le Mayeur 1948

The Gambang Player by Mari Ten Kate 1885
The Gambang Player by Mari Ten Kate 1885
Balinese Legong Dancer by W. Dooijewaard (Undated)
Balinese Legong Dancer by W. Dooijewaard (Undated)
Composition Figure by Auke Sonnega 1955
Composition Figure by Auke Sonnega 1955
The Flute Player in Landscape by Auke Sonnega 1951
The Flute Player in Landscape by Auke Sonnega 1951
The Girl at Entrance of Pura by C.L. Drake (Undated)
The Girl at Entrance of Pura by C.L. Drake (Undated)
Balinese Women by Hans Snel 1975
Balinese Women by Hans Snel 1975
At the Temple (Bali) by François Brochet 1993
At the Temple (Bali) by François Brochet 1993
Balinese Girl with Flowers by François Brochet 1995
Balinese Girl with Flowers by François Brochet 1995
After Dancing by Paul Jacoulet (Undated)
After Dancing by Paul Jacoulet (Undated)
Javaenese Dancer 1 by Léa Lafugie
Javaenese Dancer 1 by Léa Lafugie
Balinese Resting Under the Umbrella by Adrien-Jean Le Mayeur (Undated)
Balinese Resting Under the Umbrella by Adrien-Jean Le Mayeur (Undated)
Temple Dancer by Czeslaw Mystkowski (Undated)
Temple Dancer by Czeslaw Mystkowski (Undated)
Patal, Sidemen, Karangasem, Bali by Hans Werner (Undated)
Patal, Sidemen, Karangasem, Bali by Hans Werner (Undated)
Two Balinese Sitting by Hans Werner 1990
Two Balinese Sitting by Hans Werner 1990
Batu Jimbar by Donald Friend 1971
Batu Jimbar by Donald Friend 1971
Rice Granary by Miguel Covarrubias 1935
Rice Granary by Miguel Covarrubias 1935
Temple de Bancal with Numerous Balinese Figure by Adrien-Jean Le Mayeur 1950
Temple de Bancal with Numerous Balinese Figure by Adrien-Jean Le Mayeur 1950
me sweating like crazy in Bali, going into the next building
me sweating like crazy in Bali, going into the next building
Mike at Museum Pasifika
Mike at Museum Pasifika

In another building at the museum, we enjoyed paintings by Swiss artist Theo Meier (1908-1982), who lived in Bali for twenty years, from 1934-1955. He immersed himself in Balinese culture in a bohemian way and forged friendships with many other artists. He was captivated by Balinese Modernism and assembled a large number of paintings before, during and after WWII. His paintings reminded me of Paul Gauguin’s work.

Women in Taitura by Theo Meier 1934
Women in Taitura by Theo Meier 1934
Kan Keo With Balinese Offering by Theo Meier 1981
Kan Keo With Balinese Offering by Theo Meier 1981
Doorway to Wat Bakoi Dar Temple, San Piseur by Theo Meier 1976
Doorway to Wat Bakoi Dar Temple, San Piseur by Theo Meier 1976
Two Monks in Front of Chom Tong Temple by Theo Meier 1967
Two Monks in Front of Chom Tong Temple by Theo Meier 1967
Two Monks near a Lotus Pond, Mair Gong River, Nakorn Pathom by Theo Meier 1967
Two Monks near a Lotus Pond, Mair Gong River, Nakorn Pathom by Theo Meier 1967
Kan Kao Posing in the Studio by Theo Meier 1976
Kan Kao Posing in the Studio by Theo Meier 1976
Portrait of a Balinese Girl by Theo Meier
Portrait of a Balinese Girl by Theo Meier
Two Young Balinese Sitting by Theo Meier 1941
Two Young Balinese Sitting by Theo Meier 1941
Segara Mas by Theo Meier 1959
Segara Mas by Theo Meier 1959
by Theo Meier ??
by Theo Meier ??
by Theo Meier ??
by Theo Meier ??
Rejang Dancers by Theo Meier 1964
Rejang Dancers by Theo Meier 1964
by Theo Meier ??
by Theo Meier ??
by Theo Meier ??
by Theo Meier ??
by Theo Meier ??
by Theo Meier ??
by Theo Meier ??
by Theo Meier ??
by Theo Meier ??
by Theo Meier ??

Within this section were more interesting exhibits.

Museum Pasifika
Museum Pasifika
Museum Pasifika
Museum Pasifika
Museum Pasifika
Museum Pasifika
Museum Pasifika
Museum Pasifika

We finished up our visit to the museum in the Indochina Room and the Asia Room.

Procession Au Tonkin by Rene Bassouls 1927
Procession Au Tonkin by Rene Bassouls 1927
After Bathing by Le Pho Ca. 1960
After Bathing by Le Pho Ca. 1960
Rizierer Animees (Rice Fields) by Joseph Inguimberty c. 1950
Rizierer Animees (Rice Fields) by Joseph Inguimberty c. 1950
La Bale D'Halong Animee by Geo Michel
La Bale D’Halong Animee by Geo Michel
Buddha Couche by André Maire 1957
Buddha Couche by André Maire 1957
Museum Pasifika
Museum Pasifika
Mili by Lea Lafugie 1928
Mili by Lea Lafugie 1928
Museum Pasifika
Museum Pasifika
Museum Pasifika
Museum Pasifika
A Palima Tahiti by Aloi Pilloko 2005
A Palima Tahiti by Aloi Pilloko 2005
Masks at Museum Pasifika
Masks at Museum Pasifika
Vanuatu Group Celebrations by Aloi Pilloko 2005
Vanuatu Group Celebrations by Aloi Pilloko 2005
Asia Room at Museum Pasifika
Asia Room at Museum Pasifika
Asia Room at Museum Pasifika
Asia Room at Museum Pasifika
Les Sauvages de la Mer Pacifique by Jean Gabriel Charvet 1804
Les Sauvages de la Mer Pacifique by Jean Gabriel Charvet 1804
Polynesian Couple in the Forest by Jean Luis Paguenaud 1947
Polynesian Couple in the Forest by Jean Luis Paguenaud 1947
Woman and Waterfall the Polynesia Forest by Jean Luis Paguenaud (Undated)
Woman and Waterfall the Polynesia Forest by Jean Luis Paguenaud (Undated)
Tahitian Dancer by Paul Daxhelet (Undated)
Tahitian Dancer by Paul Daxhelet (Undated)
Taj Mahal I by André Maire 1955
Taj Mahal I by André Maire 1955
Benares India by W.O.J Nieuwenkamp 1935
Benares India by W.O.J Nieuwenkamp 1935
Buddha Ceylon by André Maire
Buddha Ceylon by André Maire

After visiting this fabulous museum, we stopped at a Starbucks and got some iced coffees and pastries. It was the only place we could find to sit down in air conditioning.

We shopped a bit in some of the stores then made our way to the Nusa Dua Beach Promenade, a paved walkway along the Indian Ocean that stretches 5km long.

Nusa Dua Beach Promenade
Nusa Dua Beach Promenade
Nusa Dua Beach Promenade
Nusa Dua Beach Promenade
Nusa Dua Beach Promenade
Nusa Dua Beach Promenade
Nusa Dua Beach Promenade
Nusa Dua Beach Promenade
Nusa Dua Beach Promenade
Nusa Dua Beach Promenade
me at Nusa Dua Beach Promenade
me at Nusa Dua Beach Promenade
Nusa Dua Beach Promenade
Nusa Dua Beach Promenade
Nusa Dua Beach Promenade
Nusa Dua Beach Promenade
Nusa Dua Beach Promenade
Nusa Dua Beach Promenade
Nusa Dua Beach Promenade
Nusa Dua Beach Promenade
Nusa Dua Beach Promenade
Nusa Dua Beach Promenade
Nusa Dua Beach Promenade
Nusa Dua Beach Promenade

There we strolled until coming to Tamarind where we ordered some lunch. Why I got fish and chips I’ll never know; it was a huge meal and very hot. I could barely eat a third of it. Mike got a lamb kebab on a pita.

Tamarind
Tamarind
fish and chips at Tamarind
fish and chips at Tamarind

We made our way to a main road through a beautiful hotel, the name of which I don’t know. From there we caught a Gojek back to our hotel.

hotel at Nusa Dua
hotel at Nusa Dua
hotel at Nusa Dua
hotel at Nusa Dua
hotel at Nusa Dua
hotel at Nusa Dua
hotel at Nusa Dua
hotel at Nusa Dua
hotel at Nusa Dua
hotel at Nusa Dua
hotel at Nusa Dua
hotel at Nusa Dua
hotel at Nusa Dua
hotel at Nusa Dua

We returned to our hotel to relax for a bit at the pool until our evening outing to Uluwatu.

Mike in the Movenpick pool
Mike in the Movenpick pool
musicians at Movenpick Resort & Spa Jimbaran Bali
musicians at Movenpick Resort & Spa Jimbaran Bali
Pura Luhur Uluwatu & the Kecak Dance

Our hired driver, Darma, drove us from The Movenpick in Jimbaran to Uluwatu on Saturday night. Because there was a traffic jam on the main road, we drove on windy, narrow and rutted backroads for around 45 minutes to get there. The traffic everywhere in Bali was INSANE!

Uluwatu, home of the important 1,000 year old temple Pura Luhur Uluwatu, is at the westerly end of the Bukit Peninsula and borders the Indian Ocean. The complex is set on limestone cliffs with crashing surf below. It is also home to a large colony of mischievous monkeys who are expert thieves. They love to steal any loose thing carried by tourists, including phones. We saw one snatch a pair of sunglasses 😎 from a young woman.

The present Uluwatu temple complex was built under the instructions of a Javanese Hindu sage in the 11th century and later developed by Hindu priests. However, it is said to have been the site of a temple for much longer. It is considered to protect the island of Bali from evil spirits.

Sadly the temple, which seemed in rather derelict shape, was not open to visitors. We walked around and admired the cliff top views and tried to keep our possessions away from the thieving monkeys.

We met three young Chinese ladies all decked out in colorful batik. I asked them if they got their outfits in Bali and they said, yes, in Kuta, north of Jimbaran.

me at Pura Luhur Uluwatu
me at Pura Luhur Uluwatu
Mike & Darma at Pura Luhur Uluwatu
Mike & Darma at Pura Luhur Uluwatu
monkey at Uluwatu
monkey at Uluwatu
Young Chinese ladies wearing batik
Young Chinese ladies wearing batik
me at Uluwatu
me at Uluwatu
looking at cliffs from Uluwatu
looking at cliffs from Uluwatu
monkeys at Uluwatu
monkeys at Uluwatu
monkey at Uluwatu
monkey at Uluwatu
monkeys at Uluwatu
monkeys at Uluwatu
sunset at Uluwatu
sunset at Uluwatu
sunset at Uluwatu
sunset at Uluwatu
Uluwatu from afar
Uluwatu from afar
Me with Mike on the cliff walk
Me with Mike on the cliff walk
somebody famous
somebody famous
Me, Darma & Mike at Uluwatu
Me, Darma & Mike at Uluwatu
sunset at Uluwatu
sunset at Uluwatu
sunset at Uluwatu
sunset at Uluwatu
sunset at Uluwatu
sunset at Uluwatu

Kecak dances are regularly performed here at sunset. There are two shows nightly, one at 6:00 and one at 7:00. We didn’t buy the tickets (6:00) online and thus missed our opportunity for the sunset show. However our driver Darma helped us get tickets at the temple for the 7:00 show.

After walking along the cliff top at Uluwatu, at around 6:20, our driver handed over our 7:00 tickets and told us to wait in line near the stage until they opened the doors to the amphitheater. People were packed in together waiting, unable to move or to sit, sweltering the entire time. I couldn’t help but think of being caught in a stampede if some loud noise went off. I really despise being in the midst of these kinds of crowds. At around 7:15 we could see they finally opened the doors to the 7:00 show and were letting in the tour groups first. Finally around 7:20 we were allowed to enter and then packed into the amphitheater, with no aisles or passageways left open for escape. I think they sold tickets with no regard to keeping control of crowd size.

After being in the super-efficient and well-organized Japan, with its excellent crowd-moving systems, this utter lack of a system was hard to take. I hate chaos such as this; I also hate when places don’t limit crowd size to match the size of the space.

Anyway, we were captive and we watched the Kecak dance which was certainly interesting but all the other hassle and crowds detracted from the experience.

Kecak (pronounced “kechak”) is a form of Balinese Hindu dance and music drama that was developed in the 1930s. Also known as the Ramayana monkey chant, the dance is not accompanied by any orchestra/gamelan but by a choir of seventy men wearing checked cloths around their waists, percussively chanting “chak”, and moving their hands and arms. The performance depicts a battle of the Ramayana, in which the monkey-like Vanaras, led by Hanuman, helps Prince Rama fight the evil King Ravana. Kecak has roots in sanghyang, a trance-inducing exorcism dance, in which a person in a state of trance communicates with deities or ancestors. Using the dancers as a medium, the deities or ancestors convey their wishes.

In the 1930s the old Indian epic Ramayana was included in the dance. Briefly the story runs as follows :

Due to a wise prince of Ayodya, Rama the legal heir to the throne of Ayodya, was exiled from the realm of his father Dasarata. Accompanied by his wife Sita and his younger brother Laksamana, they went into a forest called Dandaka. While they were in the forest the demon king Rahwana found them and lusted after the beautiful Sita. Accompanied by his prime minister Marica, they made a trick to steal Sita. Using his magic power Marica transformed himself into golden deer and succeeded in luring Rama and Laksamana away from Sita. Rahwana, making use of this opportunity, kidnapped Sita and took her to his palace Alengka. Discovering the deception, Rama and Laksamana set out to rescue Sita from the clutches of the demon king assisted by the huge army of monkeys under the command of their king (Hanoman).

Rama succeeded in getting his wife back safely.

Kecak Dance Uluwatu Bali

Kecak Dance Uluwatu Bali

Kecak dance
Kecak dance
Kecak dance
Kecak dance
Kecak dance
Kecak dance
Kecak dance
Kecak dance

After our 45 minute drive back to Jimbaran, we had a light dinner with a beet salad and other light fare.

4Griv6MXRtOxsPnWUwwkmw

a delicious beet salad at the Movenpick

Steps: 15,769; Miles 6.67. Weather: Hi 88°, Lo 77°. Sunny.

Seminyak

Sunday, September 22: Sunday morning we planned to go to Seminyak to check out the boutiques & restaurants but instead, after seeing the three young Chinese women at Uluwatu on Saturday night wearing batik, I was on a quest to find batik shirts such as theirs. They said they had gotten them at a shop in Kuta, so we asked around at the hotel and did some research and found a good place to buy batik was Krisna Oleh Oleh Bali at the bypass. A Gojek driver took us there and we spent over an hour looking around the sprawling multi-level store. I found two shirts (not as nice as the Chinese girls’ shirts), one sarong and a pair of pants. Everything was very cheap; we spent less than $25 for everything! I wasn’t sure it was the right place but it was close enough.

me at breakfast
me at breakfast
breakfast at the Movenpick
breakfast at the Movenpick
Mike at breakfast
Mike at breakfast
Krisna Oleh-Oleh
Krisna Oleh-Oleh
Krisna Oleh Oleh Bali
Krisna Oleh Oleh Bali
Krisna Oleh Oleh Bali
Krisna Oleh Oleh Bali
Krisna Oleh Oleh Bali
Krisna Oleh Oleh Bali
Krisna Oleh Oleh Bali
Krisna Oleh Oleh Bali
Krisna Oleh Oleh Bali
Krisna Oleh Oleh Bali
Krisna Oleh Oleh Bali
Krisna Oleh Oleh Bali
Krisna Oleh Oleh Bali
Krisna Oleh Oleh Bali
me with some pants
me with some pants
me with a batik sarong
me with a batik sarong
Krisna Oleh Oleh Bali
Krisna Oleh Oleh Bali
rooftop of Krisna Oleh Oleh Bali
rooftop of Krisna Oleh Oleh Bali
rooftop of Krisna Oleh Oleh Bali
rooftop of Krisna Oleh Oleh Bali
Krisna Oleh Oleh Bali
Krisna Oleh Oleh Bali

We had decided the rest of the day we would spend at Jimbaran Beach and at the Movenpick pool. I really don’t enjoy the beach anymore but I had to do my duty since Mike puts up with my shopping expeditions.

Jimbaran

After our shopping spree at Krisna Oleh Oleh, we returned to the hotel where we had pizza for lunch then headed to Jimbaran Beach for a couple of hours. BORING 😑 😴 , but I managed to survive the endless moments while Mike splashed around in the water, swam parallel to the shore and tried to ride a small wave in. Finally my duty was done and we returned to the hotel pool. Thank goodness that was the end of my beach time in Bali!

me back at the Movenpick
me back at the Movenpick
Mike at the Movenpick
Mike at the Movenpick
pizza for lunch
pizza for lunch
whimsical shadows
whimsical shadows
little temple on the way to Jimbaran Beach
little temple on the way to Jimbaran Beach
Jimbaran Beach
Jimbaran Beach
Jimbaran Beach
Jimbaran Beach
Jimbaran Beach
Jimbaran Beach
Jimbaran Beach
Jimbaran Beach
Jimbaran Beach
Jimbaran Beach

From the beach, we returned to the hotel pool where I rinsed off the infernal sand, got in the pool and went directly to the swim up bar. Now that was what I was talking about. We enjoyed Bintang beers and lounged around the pool for the afternoon.

Bintang beers at the swim-up bar at the Movenpick
Bintang beers at the swim-up bar at the Movenpick
Bintang beers at the swim-up bar at the Movenpick
Bintang beers at the swim-up bar at the Movenpick

Later in the evening we went back to the beach and ate fish tacos and pork belly rice at Akusuka Bali and watched all the sunset watchers and families at the beach. It was a whole different vibe than when we’d come down earlier in the afternoon. And it was just a tad bit cooler too.

Jimbaran Beach
Jimbaran Beach
Jimbaran Beach
Jimbaran Beach
Akusuka Bali
Akusuka Bali
sunset at Jimbaran Beach
sunset at Jimbaran Beach
me in a batik shirt at Akusuka Bali
me in a batik shirt at Akusuka Bali
Mike at Akusuka Bali
Mike at Akusuka Bali
pork belly rice at Akusuka Bali
pork belly rice at Akusuka Bali
fish tacos at Akusuka Bali
fish tacos at Akusuka Bali

Steps: 10,876; Miles 4.6. Weather: Hi 88°, Lo 77°. Partly cloudy.

Monday, September 23: We left the Movenpick in Jimbaran at 9:00 a.m. Monday and began our 1 1/2 hour traffic-congested drive to Sidemen on Bali’s east side. We would make a stop at Klungkung Royal Palace and then on to Sidemen, where we planned to spend 3 nights.

last breakfast at the Movenpick
last breakfast at the Movenpick
our ride to Sidemen
our ride to Sidemen

Weather Jimbaran: Hi 88°, Lo 78°.

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  • America
  • Cocktail Hour
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the november cocktail hour: a sickening election result, an anniversary, & a gloomy outlook in the midst of thanksgiving

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 November 30, 2024

November 30, 2024: Welcome to our November cocktail hour. I’m happy you’ve dropped by but I must apologize for my dark and gloomy mood. Instead of drinking celebratory drinks as I’d hope to do after our election, I feel more like drinking myself into oblivion, either that or never getting out of bed again. Hopefully I will find myself among people who enjoy reading my blog, people who haven’t revealed themselves (as yet) to be fascists and racists, and people who love to travel, to have adventures, to explore the world and get to know other cultures.  People who aren’t afraid of, but rather celebrate, the diversity among us, and those who hope for progress in the world and in humanity.

Let’s go for the hard stuff today. A pour of tequila, a dirty martini, a glass of Scotch — anything to numb ourselves from the disgusting realization that we, here in the U.S., live among almost 77 million freaking a$$holes. This is how I categorize them: imbeciles; willful ignoramuses; greedy power-hungry billionaires and rich people who don’t want to pay their share of taxes for the common good; “Christian” nationalists; Fascists; or racist white supremacists. Or the idiots that were worried about the freaking “price of eggs” just because right-wing media has fed them a bunch of lies about what is mostly one of the strongest economies in the world following the pandemic. Sure, we have inflation, but it’s been coming down and most other countries are suffering the same problem.

I also have a variety of beers, soda or seltzer water if you don’t want a hard drink. 🙂

November in Virginia
November in Virginia
November in Virginia
November in Virginia
November in Virginia
November in Virginia

How are things going after the beginning of the demise of the U.S.? Actually, I imagine many countries will gleefully watch as we fall into a hellscape our children could never have imagined. Have you read any good books that can inform your worldview, seen any good movies, binge-watched any television series? Have you planned any adventures or had any fall getaways? Have you dreamed any dreams? Gone to any exotic restaurants, cooked any new dishes? Have you been surprised by anything in life? Have you found something to be thankful for during the U.S. Thanksgiving, or in your life in general if you’re not in the U.S.? Have you learned anything new, taken any classes or just kept up with the news? Or have you decided to bury your heads in the sand and cut yourself off from all news sources for the next four (or more) years? Have you sung along with any new songs? Have you undertaken any new exercise routines? Have you marched or otherwise participated in political protests? Have you been battered, or alternately, uplifted by any news?

*******

On November 2, we went to see the deeply troubling yet powerful movie, Lee, about War correspondent & photographer Lee Miller. She documented the horrors people faced, especially women, under fascism during World War II. Lee Miller, played by Kate Winslet in the movie, was a fashion model who became an acclaimed war correspondent for Vogue magazine during World War II.

The movie felt especially prescient in the days leading up to our election where one candidate, Trump, has brainwashed a huge number of American citizens to embrace violence, hatred and fascist rhetoric. This has got to be especially disturbing to the Greatest Generation who sacrificed so much to fight the despicable Nazis in World War II.

Once out of the dark movie theater we went to Artie’s to embrace the light, have a drink in hopes of a positive outcome to the election, and to eat a delicious meal with our friendly bartender Remy, who greets everyone with “Hello beautiful people!” I’m hoping that the beautiful, loving and caring people of this country come together on Tuesday to reject the fascism, violence, retribution, and divisiveness which would be the hallmarks of another Trump presidency.

me at Artie's after seeing the movie Lee
me at Artie’s after seeing the movie Lee
Mike at Artie's after seeing the movie Lee
Mike at Artie’s after seeing the movie Lee
dinner at Artie's
dinner at Artie’s
dinner at Artie's
dinner at Artie’s

After our dinner at Artie’s, I continued my regular daily walks in Reston and Vienna and tried not to think about the coming election.

my Harris-Walz sign, right on the corner where everyone in the neighborhood could see it - BEFORE the election
my Harris-Walz sign, right on the corner where everyone in the neighborhood could see it – BEFORE the election
walk around Lake Thoreau in Reston before the election
walk around Lake Thoreau in Reston before the election
walk around Lake Thoreau in Reston before the election
walk around Lake Thoreau in Reston before the election
walk around Lake Thoreau in Reston before the election
walk around Lake Thoreau in Reston before the election
walk in Vienna before the election
walk in Vienna before the election
walk in Vienna before the election
walk in Vienna before the election

Then, on November 5, the election was held and all hope was crushed. The despicable convicted felon and insurrectionist-in-chief, Donald Trump, won the presidential election.  It’s unbelievable that a criminal (he has 34 felonies), a traitor (tried to overthrow the election results on January 6, 2021), and the most vindictive and hateful person in this country, who ran a campaign on divisiveness, fearmongering, hatred and gloom, won out over a highly-qualified, sharp-minded woman who has shown herself to be a tough prosecutor and who ran a campaign, with Tim Walz, on unity and joy.

I had so many hopes for our country, but in this sickening vote by just under 50% of American voters (the rest voted for Harris or someone else), the most disgusting scumbag won our election over a highly qualified woman. Plenty of pundits have tried to analyze the results and I have my own opinions, mostly about the huge amount of misinformation gullibly swallowed by those who are mired in right wing media outlets, especially Fox News and Elon Musk’s cesspool, the Nazi swastika-look-alike X; the rampant greed of the top 1%; and the willful ignorance of the American people. It’s embarrassing to be an American right now.

Anyway, I am going to be disengaging from politics for the next 4 years, and have deleted almost every news source from my Instagram, especially sources that I used to trust who failed miserably by normalizing Trump (NPR & many others) or by refusing to publish, in the final weeks before the election, already-written endorsements for Harris for president (The Washington Post & The LA Times).

Mike dragged me out to dinner at Ariake on that dreadful night, Nov. 6, when we got the final results. I felt like someone had beat me up with a sledgehammer and I look like it in the first photo. But I attempted a smile and will attempt to find whatever joy I can find while trying my best to disengage politically as the country is destroyed by forces equivalent to the American Taliban. I refuse to listen to all the pundits on mainstream media (I never do anyway) and will only listen to the late night comedians, especially Seth Meyers (“A Closer Look”), Stephen Colbert and Jon Stewart, because they are anti-Trump and at least they put a humorous spin on things. Anybody that posts any photos or videos of Trump on my Instagram or elsewhere will be immediately blocked. I never want to see his orange ugly face nor hear his disgusting voice. I’m hoping to spend as much of the next four years out of this country as possible, for the primary reason that I cannot bear to be in the midst of 77 million “Ugly Americans.”

Mike at Ariake after the results of the election on Nov. 6
Mike at Ariake after the results of the election on Nov. 6
Me at Ariake. My face tells how I feel.
Me at Ariake. My face tells how I feel.
Here, I try to put on a feeble smile, but inside, I feel sick.
Here, I try to put on a feeble smile, but inside, I feel sick.
appetizer at Ariake
appetizer at Ariake

I took down my yard sign while wearing my Harris-Walz T-shirt and I’m still keeping my signs on a chair in my garage where everyone can see them when we open our garage door. Here, I record for posterity that I voted on the right side of history and I will NEVER regret my vote as I watch the country descend into madness. As for The Washington Post headline below, this shows how awful the media in this country has become at normalizing Trump. The Post is my local paper but we are cutting back our subscription, one because in the weeks before the election, they refused to publish an endorsement of Harris that editors had already written. Then billionaire Jeff Bezos, who owns the newspaper, went to meet with Trump personally (and kiss his ring?). The headline makes the election result seem like a good thing! This is despicable coming from a paper that has historically leaned left.

The despicable news. The Washington Post lost all my respect. This headline makes it look like it's a happy thing!
The despicable news. The Washington Post lost all my respect. This headline makes it look like it’s a happy thing!
Me with my Harris/Walz tee-shirt and sign
Me with my Harris/Walz tee-shirt and sign

Leonard Cohen said it all in his song “Everybody Knows:”

“Everybody knows that the dice are loaded

Everybody rolls with their fingers crossed

Everybody knows the war is over

Everybody knows the good guys lost

Everybody knows the fight was fixed

The poor stay poor, the rich get rich

That’s how it goes Everybody knows.”

A trip to Union Market and a night out at Mazadar on the 9th and 10th helped us continue to process our grief over the ongoing demise of our democracy, the wholesale destruction of the environment, the erosion of human rights and dignity for every single person, the hateful and demonizing rhetoric, and the already-underway attack on our Constitution by a new administration bent on burning it all to the ground to line their own pockets.

We found a sense of community at Union Market as we discovered murals that celebrate our diversity and our need to vote for women. We met and commiserated with others who were as disgusted and disappointed by the outcome of the election as we were. We ate food from other cultures and Mike got me a couple of gifts for our anniversary (on Nov 13) at a Latino market. I LOVE the diversity and richness of this country and DESPISE the attitude of white supremacy that now seems to prevail. A bookseller at Politics & Prose recommended a book, I think it was post-apocalyptic, where a Native community in Canada was living in perfect harmony until a bunch of white people came and ruined it. I said, in a joking way but not really joking at all, “White people ruin everything!” I got several nods and a young white man pushing a baby stroller said, with great angst in his voice, something to the effect that “That election was a disgusting travesty,” as he overheard my rather loud comment. Walking around there in D.C. made me calm down a bit and to realize there are many people who feel as I do. We who voted on the right side of history are NOT ALONE. There are actually large numbers of us and we do have power.

dessert at Mazadar on our anniversary
dessert at Mazadar on our anniversary
Union Market
Union Market
Union Market
Union Market
Immigrant Food at Union Market
Immigrant Food at Union Market
Union Market
Union Market
Union Market
Union Market
me having lunch at Union Market
me having lunch at Union Market
Mike at Union Market
Mike at Union Market
Union Market
Union Market
Union Market
Union Market
mural in the Union market district
mural in the Union market district
eatery in the Union market district
eatery in the Union market district
Pride flag at Union Market
Pride flag at Union Market
mural in the Union Market District
mural in the Union Market District
Equity and Inclusion ?? That won't be happening under Trump!
Equity and Inclusion ?? That won’t be happening under Trump!
"Vote for your daughter"
“Vote for your daughter”

We celebrated our 36th (29th) anniversary at Mama Tigre (Mexican Remixed… infused with Indian spices) on Wednesday, November 13th. It was a good way to add a pound or two just in time for Thanksgiving. 🙄😤😳🙃

Mama Tigre
Mama Tigre
Mama Tigre
Mama Tigre
Mama Tigre
Mama Tigre
me at Mama Tigre on our anniversary
me at Mama Tigre on our anniversary
Mike at Mama Tigre
Mike at Mama Tigre
img_9701
img_9702
img_9703

Over the month, the kids sent us some family pictures, which helped us feel connected to the family.

Cristy, Mia and little Mike in Nicaragua
Cristy, Mia and little Mike in Nicaragua
Maria and Mike
Maria and Mike
Adam and Mia
Adam and Mia
Allie gnawing on an apple
Allie gnawing on an apple
Jandira, Alex and Allie in Atlanta on Thanksgiving Day
Jandira, Alex and Allie in Atlanta on Thanksgiving Day

Mike and I took a 4.8 mile walk one beautiful Sunday, the 17th, around Burke Lake. I continued to do my daily walks and enjoy the beautiful leaves, which still seem to be hanging on to the trees late in November. We’ve had an unusually warm fall.

me at Burke Lake
me at Burke Lake
neighborhood trees
neighborhood trees
neighborhood trees
neighborhood trees
November colors
November colors
November colors at Thanksgiving
November colors at Thanksgiving
November colors
November colors

On the 23rd, Mike and I made a trip to Richmond to look at houses with a realtor. I imagined that selling our house in Northern Virginia, where real estate is outrageously expensive, would give us plenty of money to find a decent house in Richmond, a much smaller city. This was not the case at all from what I saw. The whole trip, where we drove around Richmond neighborhoods and looked at 8 houses, turned out to be extremely disappointing. Now, I’m not sure I want to move to Richmond at all. I’m not going to move to a worse house than the one we have (unless it’s an apartment in another country)!

Thanksgiving here was a subdued affair, with Mike’s sister Barbara the only one in attendance. We commiserated about the election loss and what it means for the country and the world. I know the U.S. is the laughingstock of the world right now, and I hate it because I’m not  one of those who voted for one of the worst humans on the planet. I didn’t want to bother cooking a whole Thanksgiving dinner for 3 people, so I bought a prepared meal from Whole Foods and just reheated everything. Pumpkin pie is my favorite of the Thanksgiving meal, and of course I indulged in two nice slices topped with whipped cream. The three of us played a game of Ticket to Ride, with Mike winning, and then watched a couple of Thanksgiving episodes from Friends.

Our prepared Thanksgiving meal
Our prepared Thanksgiving meal
me on Thanksgiving day
me on Thanksgiving day
Mike and Barbara
Mike and Barbara
Mike & me at Thanksgiving
Mike & me at Thanksgiving
Barbara and me
Barbara and me
brother and sister at Thanksgiving
brother and sister at Thanksgiving
Ticket to Ride
Ticket to Ride

We will see the rest of the stateside family in Atlanta for Christmas and Adam & family in February, along with a trip to Mexico and possibly Costa Rica to look for a one-year lease on an apartment (so we can easily drive back and forth to Nicaragua to visit the growing family). I couldn’t live there for more than one year though, because I hate the heat.

Finally, on the last day of November, Mike and I drove northwest about an hour to Frederick, Maryland, where we ate brunch at Isabella’s and then wandered up and down the festive streets of the town. We did some Christmas shopping in small locally owned shops. I have decided I’d rather spend my money with small local businesses than give more money to Amazon, thus making Jeff Bezos richer.

Mike at Isabella's in Frederick, MD
Mike at Isabella’s in Frederick, MD
me at Isabella's
me at Isabella’s
How could I resist biscuits and gravy?
How could I resist biscuits and gravy?
Isabella's in Frederick, MD
Isabella’s in Frederick, MD
Isabella's
Isabella’s
Isabella's
Isabella’s
Frederick, MD
Frederick, MD
Frederick, MD
Frederick, MD
Frederick, MD
Frederick, MD
Frederick, MD
Frederick, MD
Congratulations, you made it out of bed
Congratulations, you made it out of bed
me in curious iguana bookshop
me in curious iguana bookshop
Orion with a rainbow tail in Frederick
Orion with a rainbow tail in Frederick

I only finished three books in November , bringing my total to 45/52 (still 2 books behind schedule to reach my annual goal). One of them was pretty good, The Inland Sea by Donald Richie, about the author’s travels through the Seto Inland Sea in Japan in the 1970s; the other, All the Lives We Never Lived by Anuradha Roy, was best in its second half (I almost gave up on it during the first half). This novel, set in India and Bali, was especially fascinating for its historical side, which took place in the 1930s, and featured the famous Walter Spies, an artist who promoted Balinese culture and yet, as an “enemy” German citizen, was interred by the Dutch in Bali for two years only to die when his ship was bombed by the Japanese en route to Ceylon.  We saw three movies in November: Lee, which I talked about above; Släptaget (Let Go), an endearing Swedish movie that we streamed on Netflix; and  Blitz , an okay movie which we streamed on Apple TV+. Of course I have utmost respect for what the British went through during the Blitz in WWII, but I didn’t care for the movie itself. We continued watching Grantchester, Pachinko, Trying, Shrinking, Lincoln Lawyer, Another Self, Maestro in Blue, The Bear, and Modern Family.

I hope you’ll share how the year is panning out for you, and what plans you have for December and the wrap-up of 2024. I hope you can share something hopeful to cheer me up, but if you want to share your frustration go ahead! As long as you’re not a pro-Trumper, you are welcome here. Otherwise, NOT.

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narita, japan & onward to bali, indonesia

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 November 27, 2024

Thursday, September 19, 2024: We arrived in Narita from Nagoya after a long (~4 hour) travel day. We got on the Shinkansen at 9:41 & arrived in Tokyo Station at 11:20. But it took us another 2 hours and 10 minutes to navigate 2 other trains to get to Narita, which is quite a distance east of Tokyo. Sadly we had to travel to Narita instead of Haneda, which is just south of Tokyo, because our direct flight Friday morning was on Garuda Indonesia to Bali and then back from Bali to Narita.

We took a taxi to our ryokan, Wakamatsu Honten, because we didn’t feel like a 14-minute walk in the heat. The long shopping street, Omotesando, stretches over the entire one kilometer distance from the railway station to the temple, Naritasan. Our ryokan is directly across the street from the temple’s main gate. It is a lively street lined with numerous restaurants and stores that have been selling traditional crafts, foods and souvenirs to pilgrims and tourists for centuries.

We couldn’t check in until 3:00 so we dropped our bags and wandered out to find lunch. We stumbled upon a rather slovenly restaurant where I got udon noodles with prawn tempura and Mike got a kind of meat loaf topped with scrambled eggs. We sat on cushions at the low tables (very uncomfortable I might add) and laughed when all the Japanese people who came in sat in chairs at regular tables. Even they were not foolish enough to sit on those uncomfortable cushions.

Narita
Narita
plastic food display in Narita
plastic food display in Narita
udon noodles with prawn tempura
udon noodles with prawn tempura
Mike with his meat loaf topped with scrambled eggs
Mike with his meat loaf topped with scrambled eggs
me at lunch in Narita
me at lunch in Narita
the Japanese ladies knew better than to sit on the low uncomfortable cushions
the Japanese ladies knew better than to sit on the low uncomfortable cushions
Narita
Narita
Narita
Narita
me in Narita
me in Narita

After lunch we visited Naritasan Shinshoji Temple (成田山新勝寺), a large and highly popular Buddhist temple complex. A broad variety of temple buildings stand on the spacious grounds of Naritasan, including the temple’s new and former main halls and a three storied pagoda.

Naritasan was built in the year 940 around its main sacred object of worship, a statue of the Buddhist Fudo Myoo deity. Kobo Daishi, the founder of the Shingon Sect and one of the most important figures in Japan’s religious history, is said to have carved the statue.

Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
me with Mike at the gate to Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
me with Mike at the gate to Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
me at Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
me at Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
colorful pagoda at Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
colorful pagoda at Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
ema at Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
ema at Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
ema at Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
ema at Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
ema at Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
ema at Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
pagoda at Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
pagoda at Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
pagoda at Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
pagoda at Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
pagoda at Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
pagoda at Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple

After visiting the temple, we walked up and down Omotesando, checking out the shops and watching the people. I loved the simple style of a young Japanese woman and only wished I could have taken a photo of her from the front. It was miserably hot and humid, so we stopped to cool off at a cafe that made dango.  Dango (団子) is a Japanese dumpling made with regular rice flour and glutinous rice flour.  They are usually made in round shapes, and three to five pieces are served on a skewer, which is called kushi-dango (串団子). The pieces are eaten with sugar, syrup, red bean paste, and other sweeteners.

We wandered lackadaisically on the shopping street. Japanese “shopping streets” never sell much of interest. It seems many of them sell boxed sweets that are fancily packaged; I believe they’re bought to give as gifts.  Mike captured some of the schoolchildren in their uniforms.

Omotesando
Omotesando
I love this young lady's style. I wish I could have taken a photo of her from the front
I love this young lady’s style. I wish I could have taken a photo of her from the front
Omotesando
Omotesando
baskets on Omotesando
baskets on Omotesando
Omotesando
Omotesando
dango cafe
dango cafe
cool drinks in the cafe
cool drinks in the cafe
dango
dango
schoolchildren on Omotesando
schoolchildren on Omotesando
schoolchildren on Omotesando
schoolchildren on Omotesando
someone earnestly cooking
someone earnestly cooking

We went in search of something we could buy and take to our room for dinner later. We hadn’t reserved dinner at the ryokan and the manager had informed us that most of the town shut down at 5:00 so we wouldn’t find any place open for dinner. We finally found a place to buy croquettes, so we took some back to the hotel and checked in for the night. We also stopped to buy a couple of beers; we were surprised how difficult it was to find them.

the shop where we bought croquettes for dinner
the shop where we bought croquettes for dinner
croquettes
croquettes

We checked in at Wakamatsu Honten, the same ryokan where I stayed before leaving Japan after teaching at Aoyama-Gakuin University – Sagimahara campus for the spring semester of 2017.

img_4398

Wakamatsu Honten

We got cozy in our yukata and had a little fun playing around with a silly fan found in our room. We enjoyed beers, ate the croquettes we’d bought, took baths in the segregated onsens, and then went to sleep on our futons.

our room at Wakamatsu Honten
our room at Wakamatsu Honten
our room at Wakamatsu Honten
our room at Wakamatsu Honten
me in my yukata
me in my yukata
somehow I always feel an urge to bow when wearing yukata
somehow I always feel an urge to bow when wearing yukata
Mike in his yukata
Mike in his yukata
me being silly with the fan
me being silly with the fan
the other side of the fan
the other side of the fan
Mike being silly with the fan
Mike being silly with the fan
Mike being silly with the fan
Mike being silly with the fan
a funny little fan with sweets on his eyes
a funny little fan with sweets on his eyes

Steps: 12,557; Miles 5.33. Weather: Hi 88º, Lo 74°. Cloudy.

Friday, September 20: We woke up early for baths in the public onsen at the ryokan. This time we managed to take some pictures of them since no one else was there.

men's onsen at Wakamatsu Honten
men’s onsen at Wakamatsu Honten
men's onsen
men’s onsen
women's onsen
women’s onsen
women's onsen
women’s onsen
women's onsen
women’s onsen

We then had an early vegetarian breakfast with multiple dishes as outlined on the placemat: “We are serving traditional ascetic[ally (sic.)] cuisine (vegetarian diet food) , the ‘SHOJIN ryori.’ The ‘SHOJIN ryori’ is said [to be] the origin of Japanese food culture. Even cooking without meats and fishes or eggs, it is still nutritious. The ‘SHOJIN ryori’ is seen as the healthy meal for physical and spiritual [well-being].” The menu included things such as tofu skin, peanut miso, plant meat, spinach, eddoe, eggplant, sesame tofu, simmer fried tofu, loquat jelly, natto, salad, pickled vegetables and miso soup, along with steamed rice.

We felt a bit rushed and obligated to finish everything, so it was a bit stressful. I can’t say I was crazy about any of it.

breakfast room at Wakamatsu Honten
breakfast room at Wakamatsu Honten
me having a Japanese breakfast, SHOJIN ryori
me having a Japanese breakfast, SHOJIN ryori
SHOJIN ryori
SHOJIN ryori
SHOJIN ryori
SHOJIN ryori

A taxi picked us up at 7:55 a.m. and took us through heavy traffic to Narita Airport, where we would fly off to Bali.

waiting at Narita Airport for our flight on Garuda Indonesia
waiting at Narita Airport for our flight on Garuda Indonesia
our Garuda Indonesia plane
our Garuda Indonesia plane
our Garuda Indonesia plane
our Garuda Indonesia plane

We took Garuda Indonesia Flight 881 to Denpasar, Bali. 11:00 a.m. to 5:25 p.m. We left Narita right on time; the doors to the plane were closed at 10:45 a.m. and we took off directly at 11:00. As we took off, Mike was able to capture some photos of Mt. Fuji. We loved the airline; the seats were roomy and the service was impeccable.

leaving Narita, Japan for Bali, Indonesia
leaving Narita, Japan for Bali, Indonesia
views of Mount Fuji from the plane
views of Mount Fuji from the plane
views of Mount Fuji from the plane
views of Mount Fuji from the plane

Weather in Narita: Hi 92°, Lo 74°.

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nagoya & the ōsu kanon temple market

wanderessence1025's avatar wanderessence1025 November 20, 2024
Arrival in Nagoya

Monday, September 16, 2024: After driving from Takayama to the two post towns along the Nakesendo Trail and then to Nagoya, I couldn’t take the hassle of getting a shuttle from the Toyota-Rent-a-Car place to the airport, then the Express bus from the airport to Nagoya Station and then switching trains + a 15 minute walk to our hotel, Gold Stay Nagoya Osu, while hauling our luggage. So we opted for a taxi, our first in Japan, directly to the hotel 🏨. I was so exhausted and sick after the day that I put on my PJs and got in bed while Mike went out to a convenience store to nab us some dinner. We have a wonderful apartment here in Nagoya, but it’s sadly not conveniently located to any subway stops, with at least a 15-minute walk to any station. It does have its own Japanese bath, a kitchen and, best of all, a washing machine. We were able to watch Maestro in Blue on Netflix, but I fell asleep in the middle of it. This place would turn out to be one of our most favorite places to stay in Japan.

Gold Stay Nagoya Osu
Gold Stay Nagoya Osu
Gold Stay Nagoya Osu
Gold Stay Nagoya Osu
Gold Stay Nagoya Osu
Gold Stay Nagoya Osu
Gold Stay Nagoya Osu
Gold Stay Nagoya Osu

Steps: 8,139; Miles: 3.44. Nagoya: Hi 92°F, Lo 77°F. Mostly cloudy.

Tuesday, September 17: We started our Tuesday in Nagoya by walking toward the metro to go to Nagoya Station to buy our Shinkansen tickets to return to Tokyo on Thursday. On the way, we passed a modern temple with an old drum tower.

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old drum tower in front of a modern temple in Nagoya

Ōsu Kannon Temple

On Wednesday the 18th, there would be a big antique flea market on the grounds of Ōsu-Kannon Temple, which we planned to go to. Since it was nice and quiet today, we stopped to take some photos.

Ōsu Kannon Temple has roots back to 1933. The main object of worship at the temple is a wooden statue of Kannon, the goddess of mercy, which was carved by Kobo Daishi, an famous figure in Japanese Buddhism. The present building dates to 1970. Originally built during the Kamakura Period (1192-1333) in neighboring Gifu Prefecture, the temple was moved to its current site by Tokugawa Ieyasu in 1612 after the original temple had been repeatedly damaged by severe flooding. The current buildings are 20th century reconstructions.

img_3863

Ōsu Kannon Temple

Underneath Osu Kannon’s main hall is the Shinpukuji Library which contains over 15,000 classic Japanese and Chinese texts. Among these texts are several national treasures and important cultural properties, including the oldest copy of the Kojiki, a chronicle of the early history of Japan including its mythological origins.

me at Ōsu Kannon Temple
me at Ōsu Kannon Temple
Mike at Ōsu Kannon Temple
Mike at Ōsu Kannon Temple
ema at Ōsu Kannon Temple
ema at Ōsu Kannon Temple

Leaving the temple, we went on to the metro station and then to Nagoya station where it took us quite a while to find the place to buy our Shinkansen tickets.

I know it was a bit strange but we would be taking the Shinkansen to Narita, after only 10 days in Japan, to fly to Bali for 10 days. Then we’d return to Japan for another 19 days. It was cheaper and less time in the air to get round trip direct tickets from home to Tokyo and then round trip direct tickets from Tokyo to Bali and back.

Nagoya Castle

We took the metro to Nagoya Castle, but before going into the complex, we stopped at a coffee shop where we found a little boy eating a crazy-looking shaved ice concoction.

NAGOYA SIGN
NAGOYA SIGN
little boy in coffee shop with his shaved-ice concoction
little boy in coffee shop with his shaved-ice concoction
Nagoya Castle Map
Nagoya Castle Map

We visited Nagoya Castle (名古屋城, Nagoyajō), built in the beginning of the Edo Period (1603-1868) as the seat of one of the three branches of the ruling Tokugawa family, the Owari branch. As such, it was one of the largest castles in the country, and the castle town around it ultimately grew to become Japan’s fourth largest city.

Nagoya Castle, one of the most representative Japanese castle structures of the early modern period, was constructed by Ieyasu Tokugawa (1542-1616), founder of the powerful Edo Shogunate. Following the construction of Edo Castle and Sumpu Castle, the Shogun in 1610 ordered construction of Nagoya Castle, actually the last to be built during his reign.

The operation was carried out as a national-level project to build a great castle that would symbolize the power and authority of the Tokugawa Shogunate. The five-storied Great Tenshu, the Castle’s donjon, crowned with a pair of glittering golden dolphin-like “shachi”, was especially famous as the largest wooden castle structure in Japan.

img_3885

Nagoya Castle

Most castle buildings were destroyed in the air raids of 1945, including the castle keep and the palace buildings. The current ferro-concrete reconstruction of the castle keep dates from 1959 and – before its closure in May 2018 – contained a museum about the castle’s history. The park surrounding the castle keep features two circles of moats and impressive walls with corner turrets.

Near the entry was a stone topped with a man; it was called Kiyomasa’s Stone Pulling. It is said that Kato Kiyomasa, a renowned samurai who was ordered to supervise the construction of the stone walls of the Castle Towers, issued commands atop this stone.

Nagoya Castle moats
Nagoya Castle moats
Nagoya Castle moats
Nagoya Castle moats
Kiyomasa's Stone Pulling
Kiyomasa’s Stone Pulling

Nagoya Castle’s Hommaru Palace was built in 1615 as the residence for the leader of the Owari Domain. Genkan, the entrance hall, was the first building to which visitors to the Hommaru Palace were admitted. The walls were adorned with bold depictions of tigers. Oroka, the grand corridor, was a passageway between the Genkan and the heart of the palace.

The palace burned down in the wartime air raids of 1945. Restoration work began in January 2009. Genkan, the entrance hall and Omote Shoin, the main hall, opened to public viewing in 2013. We walked through in single file lines, wearing mandatory slippers, and took photos of the beautiful tatami rooms and painted screens. Sadly, there was no air conditioning, so it was terribly stifling.

Genkan in Hommaru Palace
Genkan in Hommaru Palace
Genkan in Hommaru Palace
Genkan in Hommaru Palace
Genkan in Hommaru Palace
Genkan in Hommaru Palace
Genkan in Hommaru Palace
Genkan in Hommaru Palace

Omete Shein, the main hall was used for official audiences. The raised-floor room at the furthest end was reserved for lords.

Omete Shein
Omete Shein
Omete Shein
Omete Shein
Omete Shein
Omete Shein
Omete Shein
Omete Shein
me in front of Omete Shein
me in front of Omete Shein
Omete Shein
Omete Shein
Omete Shein
Omete Shein
Omete Shein
Omete Shein
Omete Shein
Omete Shein
Omete Shein
Omete Shein
Omete Shein
Omete Shein

The Taimenjo (Reception Hall) was used for private banquets or meetings between the lord and his relatives or vassals. The Jodan-no-ma, main audience chambers, and Tsuginoma, connecting room, was decorated with paintings of famous sites, scenes of the four seasons, and groups of people.

Taimenjo (Reception Hall)
Taimenjo (Reception Hall)
Taimenjo (Reception Hall)
Taimenjo (Reception Hall)

The lord or Shogun would use Saginoroka (Heron Corridor) when passing between the Taimenjo and the Jorakuden. It was constructed in 1634 at the same time as the Jorakuden. The screen paintings extending above the Nageshi, decorative beams, are a feature introduced around this time.

Saginoroka (Heron Corridor)
Saginoroka (Heron Corridor)
Saginoroka (Heron Corridor)
Saginoroka (Heron Corridor)
Saginoroka (Heron Corridor)
Saginoroka (Heron Corridor)

The Jorakuden (Shogun Accommodation Hall) was a palace extension built in 1634 for the impending visit of the Third Shogun, Tokugawa Iemitsu, en route from Edo (Tokyo) to the capital, Kyoto. During the Edo period it was known as the Go Shoin or the Oshiro Shoin. It was the most luxurious of the Hommaru buildings, with gorgeously decorated walls and ceilings, and an intricately carved, richly colored transom.

Jorakuden (Shogun Accommodation Hall)
Jorakuden (Shogun Accommodation Hall)
Jorakuden (Shogun Accommodation Hall)
Jorakuden (Shogun Accommodation Hall)
Jorakuden (Shogun Accommodation Hall)
Jorakuden (Shogun Accommodation Hall)
Jorakuden (Shogun Accommodation Hall)
Jorakuden (Shogun Accommodation Hall)
Jorakuden (Shogun Accommodation Hall)
Jorakuden (Shogun Accommodation Hall)
Jorakuden (Shogun Accommodation Hall)
Jorakuden (Shogun Accommodation Hall)
Jorakuden (Shogun Accommodation Hall)
Jorakuden (Shogun Accommodation Hall)

The Umenoma (Plum Room) was a waiting room used by the high ranking vassals of Owari Province prior to audiences with the Shogun in the Jorakuden, Shogun accommodation hall. It was constructed along with the Jorakuden in 1634.

Umenoma
Umenoma
Umenoma
Umenoma
Umenoma
Umenoma

The main keep of Nagoya Castle was closed to visitors as it was undergoing a reconstruction to make it more earthquake proof.

main keep of Nagoya Castle
main keep of Nagoya Castle
me at the main keep of Nagoya Castle
me at the main keep of Nagoya Castle
Mike at the main keep of Nagoya Castle
Mike at the main keep of Nagoya Castle

Nagoya

After visiting Nagoya Castle we returned to Ōsu-Kannon and then wandered through the shopping arcades all around there. We got little fish-shaped pastries filled with a sweet bean sauce. They were quite tasty. Japanese people love their sweets; you can find anything you imagine.

Ōsu-Kannon
Ōsu-Kannon
Ōsu-Kannon
Ōsu-Kannon
Ōsu-Kannon shopping arcades
Ōsu-Kannon shopping arcades
me coming out of Alice on Wednesday
me coming out of Alice on Wednesday
Alice on Wednesday
Alice on Wednesday
fabrics inn Ōsu-Kannon shopping arcades
fabrics inn Ōsu-Kannon shopping arcades
Ōsu-Kannon shopping arcades
Ōsu-Kannon shopping arcades
Ōsu-Kannon shopping arcades
Ōsu-Kannon shopping arcades
Mike eats a fish-shaped pastry
Mike eats a fish-shaped pastry
fish-shaped pastry
fish-shaped pastry
fish-shaped pastries
fish-shaped pastries
Ōsu-Kannon shopping arcades
Ōsu-Kannon shopping arcades

We went to a sushi bar, Sushi sakaba Matsubara, for dinner on Tuesday night. The menu was all in Japanese. Nagoya must not be much of a tourist town because often restaurants in Japan have an English menu. We haven’t found English menus much in Nagoya. I used my Papago app: it sucks! We ordered some kind of sushi, some kind of snack, beers and sake. I couldn’t tell for sure what any of the food was. We enjoyed the cozy atmosphere of the bar though.

me at Sushi sakaba Matsubara
me at Sushi sakaba Matsubara
Me with the Sushi sakaba Matsubara menu
Me with the Sushi sakaba Matsubara menu
Mike with the Sushi sakaba Matsubara menu
Mike with the Sushi sakaba Matsubara menu
sushi at Sushi sakaba Matsubara
sushi at Sushi sakaba Matsubara
Sushi sakaba Matsubara
Sushi sakaba Matsubara
Sushi sakaba Matsubara
Sushi sakaba Matsubara

Steps: 15,518; Miles 6.57. Weather Hi 94°, Lo 74°. Mostly sunny.

Ōsu-Kannon Temple Market

Wednesday, September 18: The main reason I wanted to come to Nagoya was for the flea market held on the grounds of Ōsu-Kannon Temple on the 18th & 28th of every month. I was inspired by Peta of Empty Nesters on a Green Global Trek because I love textiles and she had found some pants made from temple flags when she was here last year. I was especially interested in lightweight summery pants with Japanese lettering. I found one lady who sold pants and clothes but she didn’t speak English; when I asked if hers were the pants made from temple flags, using Google Translate, she said no. Other merchants sold pieces of fabric or kimonos, but this one was the only merchant I could find who sold clothing. I ended up trying on a bunch of pants that didn’t fit, but I found two that did (although one needs hemming). I also found a dress embroidered with handmade stitching which I bought. I look horrible in the pictures because I was trying them on under or over my clothes and the high today was 97 degrees with super high humidity. Needless to say it was miserable. But at least I showed up and found a merchant (not the same one) who sold clothing and I found a couple of Japanese items. The merchant was super friendly and kept giving me things to try on that I had no interest in.

It was fun to wander through the market looking at pottery, fabrics, kimonos and every other kind of imaginable thing. Also, I took some surreptitious photos of pretty ladies in fancy yukata or kimono (I don’t know how to tell which is which). Also we glimpsed some strangely stylish space-age looking women walking through the temple gate.

Ōsu-Kannon Temple Market
Ōsu-Kannon Temple Market
me at the Ōsu-Kannon Temple Market
me at the Ōsu-Kannon Temple Market
Ōsu-Kannon Temple Market
Ōsu-Kannon Temple Market
my favorite pants I bought at the Ōsu-Kannon Temple Market
my favorite pants I bought at the Ōsu-Kannon Temple Market
me with the market vendor
me with the market vendor
the dress I bought
the dress I bought
Mike at the Ōsu-Kannon Temple Market
Mike at the Ōsu-Kannon Temple Market
the vendor at the Ōsu-Kannon Temple Market
the vendor at the Ōsu-Kannon Temple Market
ladies in kimono
ladies in kimono
Ōsu-Kannon Temple Market
Ōsu-Kannon Temple Market
Ōsu-Kannon Temple Market
Ōsu-Kannon Temple Market
Ōsu-Kannon Temple Market
Ōsu-Kannon Temple Market
Ōsu-Kannon Temple Market
Ōsu-Kannon Temple Market
Ōsu-Kannon Temple Market
Ōsu-Kannon Temple Market
Mike at the Ōsu-Kannon Temple Market
Mike at the Ōsu-Kannon Temple Market
me at the Ōsu-Kannon Temple Market
me at the Ōsu-Kannon Temple Market
Ōsu-Kannon Temple Market
Ōsu-Kannon Temple Market
Gate of Ōsu-Kannon Temple
Gate of Ōsu-Kannon Temple
space-age women walking through the Ōsu-Kannon Temple Gate
space-age women walking through the Ōsu-Kannon Temple Gate
Ladies in kimono
Ladies in kimono
ladies in kimono
ladies in kimono

Tokugawa Art Museum & Tokugawa Park

We took a JR line and a subway and walked about 15 minutes in the hot sun to the Tokugawa Art Museum in Nagoya. The first picture in the set below are two girls on the metro who were dressed alike. We found two sets of matching girls today.

Some of the galleries were closed in the museum but we enjoyed the ones we could see, especially as the museum was air-conditioned.

THE TOKUGAWA ART MUSEUM and surrounding public garden, THE TOKUGAWA PARK are situated in what was the main section of a mansion complex and grounds known as the Ozone yashiki.

The second lord of the Owari branch of the Tokugawa shogun family, Mitsutomo, had the mansion built and lived here in retirement from 1695. After Mitsutomo’s death in 1700, the location was used for the homes of three high-ranking Tokugawa retainers, the Naruse, Ishiko and Watanabe families. At the Meiji restoration (1868) the land reverted to the Tokugawa family.

In the museum, we found a helmet and armor from the Edo period, 1849. It was worn by the 14th lord of Owari, Tokugawa Yoshikatsu.

We saw a modern reproduction of a lord’s tea house in the simple sukiya-style. The design is based on records of the SARUMEN tea-house at the Owari Tokgawa’s Ninomaru residence at Nagoya Castle. The name Sarumen (“monkey’s face”) comes from the resemblance of the knots purposefully left exposed in the cedar pillar flanking the alcove.

We also enjoyed the formal chamber of a daimyo’s residence. The main rooms were used for official and ceremonial purposes. Here the lord issued orders or received guests at banquets.

matching girls on the metro to the Tokugawa Art Museum
matching girls on the metro to the Tokugawa Art Museum
helmet & armor from Edo period, Tokugawa Art Museum
helmet & armor from Edo period, Tokugawa Art Museum
Record on the repair and manufacture of matchlocks, Edo period, 18th-19th c.
Record on the repair and manufacture of matchlocks, Edo period, 18th-19th c.
Water Jar with cloud, rabbit and crane design. China, Ming Dynasty, 15th C.
Water Jar with cloud, rabbit and crane design. China, Ming Dynasty, 15th C.
Modern reproduction of a lord's tea house
Modern reproduction of a lord’s tea house
Tokugawa Art Museum
Tokugawa Art Museum
Formal chamber of a Daimyo's Residence
Formal chamber of a Daimyo’s Residence
Formal chamber of a Daimyo's Residence
Formal chamber of a Daimyo’s Residence
Replica of decorative alcoves and raised section for the lord to sit
Replica of decorative alcoves and raised section for the lord to sit
Tokugawa Art Museum
Tokugawa Art Museum
Tokugawa Art Museum
Tokugawa Art Museum

We found costumes related to Noh Theatre. Noh is a sophisticated musical drama that relates a delightful or often tragic story. A masked protagonist performs in dance and song, with one or two others in unmasked subsidiary roles, accompanied by a chorus, drums and flute. Shorter comic plays called Kyogen are interspersed to enliven a full performance. Noh’s restrained conventions of movement and texts full of poetical allusions achieved much of their present form by the mid-15th century under the enthusiastic patronage of the Ashikaga shoguns.

The warrior elite patronized Noh in the 16th century when many warlords were accomplished amateur performers. Noh drama in the Edo period became the official entertainment of the shogun and daimyo, powerful Japanese feudal lords, who, from the 10th century to the early Meiji period in the middle 19th century, ruled most of Japan from their vast hereditary land holdings.

Noh performances were obligatory at ceremonies and festive occasions throughout the year and to celebrate special events. Most daimyo families had a stage and a collection of Noh (and Kyogen) costumes, masks, and simple props to use whenever professional actors were called in. The amateur tradition continued. Practice in singing the texts was part of the education of any lord, and many are recorded as being talented dancers.

After our tour of the museum, we stopped in the museum “coffee room” to have cool drinks and “chestnut crunching” snacks.

Noh Theatre costumes
Noh Theatre costumes
Noh Theatre costumes
Noh Theatre costumes
Noh Theatre costumes
Noh Theatre costumes
Tokugawa Art Museum
Tokugawa Art Museum
Tokugawa Art Museum
Tokugawa Art Museum
Flowers and Grasses, Edo period, 19th c.
Flowers and Grasses, Edo period, 19th c.
Case for Incense Implements, maki-e lacquer design, peony arabesque. Edo period, 19th c.
Case for Incense Implements, maki-e lacquer design, peony arabesque. Edo period, 19th c.
Tokugawa Art Museum
Tokugawa Art Museum
me having a snack and cool drink at the Tokugawa Art Museum
me having a snack and cool drink at the Tokugawa Art Museum

After leaving the nice cool air conditioned museum we walked around the beautiful water garden that is part of the museum, The Tokugawa Park. It would be lovely in spring with the cherry blossoms and irises.

Tokugawa Park
Tokugawa Park
me at the Tokugawa Park
me at the Tokugawa Park
Tokugawa Park
Tokugawa Park
Tokugawa Park
Tokugawa Park
Tokugawa Park
Tokugawa Park
Mike at Tokugawa Park
Mike at Tokugawa Park
Tokugawa Park
Tokugawa Park
Tokugawa Park
Tokugawa Park
Tokugawa Park
Tokugawa Park
Tokugawa Park
Tokugawa Park
Tokugawa Park
Tokugawa Park
Tokugawa Park
Tokugawa Park
Tokugawa Park
Tokugawa Park
Tokugawa Park
Tokugawa Park
Tokugawa Park
Tokugawa Park
Tokugawa Park
Tokugawa Park

When we left the park we had to retrace our 15-minute walk from the Museum and Park back to the metro in the hot sun. It was sweltering and we were hungry so we were on the lookout for a cool place to eat. Luckily we found a little Italian restaurant where we enjoyed pasta. I had creamed risotto of smoked salmon and Mike a kind of spaghetti with corn.

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Ōsu-Kanon Temple Market & wrapping up our visit to Nagoya

We passed by the Ōsu-Kanon Temple Market on the way back to our hotel and I took some photos of the colorful textiles and kimono for sale. The woman who had sold me the dress and two pants had already packed up and gone home for the day. She had probably made enough money from me to call it a day!

textiles at the Ōsu Kannon Temple Market
textiles at the Ōsu Kannon Temple Market
textiles at the Ōsu Kannon Temple Market
textiles at the Ōsu Kannon Temple Market
textiles at the Ōsu Kannon Temple Market
textiles at the Ōsu Kannon Temple Market
textiles at the Ōsu Kannon Temple Market
textiles at the Ōsu Kannon Temple Market
textiles at the Ōsu Kannon Temple Market
textiles at the Ōsu Kannon Temple Market

We dropped into Hioki Shrine near our hotel. Then we were happy to return to our room to rest for a bit and escape the heat… and have a beer!

Hioki Shrine
Hioki Shrine
Hioki Shrine
Hioki Shrine
Hioki Shrine
Hioki Shrine
Hioki Shrine
Hioki Shrine
Hioki Shrine
Hioki Shrine
Mike in the hotel pajamas
Mike in the hotel pajamas
us in our PJs, cooling off and enjoying a beer
us in our PJs, cooling off and enjoying a beer

Near Ōsu-Kannon, when walking back to our hotel, we’d seen the alluring plastic food display at Shinpachi Shokudö Ösukannon Ekimae. I had a craving for a fish meal, so after resting in our hotel during the hottest part of the afternoon, we went to the restaurant for a delicious fish dinner.

I enjoyed the Salt Char-grilled Thick-cut Coho Salmon Combo Meal and Mike had the Char-grilled Atka Mackerel Combo Meal (half).

Mike in Nagoya
Mike in Nagoya
Nagoya traffic
Nagoya traffic
Shinpachi Shokudö Ösukannon Ekimae
Shinpachi Shokudö Ösukannon Ekimae
plastic food display at Shinpachi Shokudö Ösukannon Ekimae
plastic food display at Shinpachi Shokudö Ösukannon Ekimae
Mike in front of Shinpachi Shokudö Ösukannon Ekimae
Mike in front of Shinpachi Shokudö Ösukannon Ekimae
Salt Char-grilled Thick-cut Coho Salmon Combo Meal with Standard Rice
Salt Char-grilled Thick-cut Coho Salmon Combo Meal with Standard Rice
Salt Char-grilled Thick-cut Coho Salmon Combo Meal with Standard Rice
Salt Char-grilled Thick-cut Coho Salmon Combo Meal with Standard Rice
Mike eating Char-grilled Atka Mackerel Combo Meal (half) with Standard Rice
Mike eating Char-grilled Atka Mackerel Combo Meal (half) with Standard Rice
Char-grilled Atka Mackerel Combo Meal (half) with Standard Rice
Char-grilled Atka Mackerel Combo Meal (half) with Standard Rice
Shinpachi Shokudö Ösukannon Ekimae
Shinpachi Shokudö Ösukannon Ekimae
Shinpachi Shokudö Ösukannon Ekimae
Shinpachi Shokudö Ösukannon Ekimae

We wandered back to the hotel through the covered arcades and finished readying ourselves for our next move:  taking the Shinkansen to Narita for our flight to Bali on Friday.

Ōsu Kannon shopping arcade
Ōsu Kannon shopping arcade
Ōsu Kannon shopping arcade
Ōsu Kannon shopping arcade
walking back to our hotel after dinner
walking back to our hotel after dinner

Steps: 14,888; Miles 6.3. Weather Hi 97°, Lo 78°. Mostly sunny.

Thursday, September 19: We left Nagoya Thursday morning on the Nozomi 314 Shinkansen at 9:41. While waiting for the train to arrive it was fun to capture the girls making fashion statements.

Nagoya & on to Tokyo

Nagoya & on to Tokyo

Japanese fashion at Nagoya Station
Japanese fashion at Nagoya Station
Japanese fashion at Nagoya Station
Japanese fashion at Nagoya Station
our Shinkansen tickets from Nagoya to Tokyo
our Shinkansen tickets from Nagoya to Tokyo
views of Japan out the window of the Shinkansen heading back to Tokyo
views of Japan out the window of the Shinkansen heading back to Tokyo
views of Japan out the window of the Shinkansen heading back to Tokyo
views of Japan out the window of the Shinkansen heading back to Tokyo
views of Japan out the window of the Shinkansen heading back to Tokyo
views of Japan out the window of the Shinkansen heading back to Tokyo
views of Japan out the window of the Shinkansen heading back to Tokyo
views of Japan out the window of the Shinkansen heading back to Tokyo
views of Japan out the window of the Shinkansen heading back to Tokyo
views of Japan out the window of the Shinkansen heading back to Tokyo

We headed to Tokyo and then onward to Narita, where we would spend the night and fly to Bali on Friday morning.

 

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