anticipation & preparation: el salvador, nicaragua & colombia

March, 2024: It’s that time for us to be on the move again. It’s a bit strange how our travels are shaped by things outside of our control. That’s how I feel about this trip. Our main purpose is to see our son Adam, who currently makes Ometepe Island in Nicaragua his home. He got married last May (2023) to María, a Nicaraguan woman who already had 4 children: three girls (Cristy, Andrea and Mia) and one an adult young man (Johnny). While we were traveling in October, Adam let us know that María is pregnant (due in May or June of 2024). He’s hoping for a boy, as he’s surrounded by girls now. We debated about waiting to visit until the baby was born, but we wanted a chance to meet María and the girls BEFORE the baby arrives. Also, I’d rather meet the baby after about 6 months or so when we can interact with him or her. We’ll plan to go back to Nicaragua next January, combined with a trip around Mexico.

me with Mike at Punta Jesus María

Adam’s house on Ometepe

Volcán Concepción

Adam, Mike and me at Ojo de Agua

Coco Locos at Ojo de Agua

kayaking at Río Istian with Volcán Concepción ahead

kayaking at Río Istian with Volcán Concepción ahead

kayaking at Río Istian

kayaking at Río Istian with Volcán Maderas in the background

kayaking at Río Istian with Volcán Maderas in the background

me in Moyogalpa, Ometepe

map of Ometepe

Ometepe Island from the ferry: left Volcán Concepción, right Volcán Maderas

Since Mike is still working and can only take off three weeks, and I have more freedom, I decided I’d like to stop by San Salvador, in El Salvador, to visit my friend Mario, with whom I taught English in Oman from 2011-2013. It’s been over 10 years, so I hope we can pick up where we left off. We had such grand adventures together in Oman, and could easily talk and laugh about everything, and I hope we can resume that camaraderie. Also, he’ll give me an introduction to his tiny country, full of volcanoes, charming towns, and Mayan ruins.

Mario on Jebel Akhdar in 2013

Mario in the ruins on Jebel Akhdar

Mario and Omani kids

me, Mario and Anna on an endless hike

Omani man with me and Mario

Finally, in 2022, when Mike and I were preparing to go to Ecuador, major protests by indigenous people there closed down the main north-south highway and many other secondary roads for over a month, causing us to cancel our trip. We didn’t know for sure when the protests would end, so in the meantime, I read the entire guidebook for Colombia, thinking if the strike didn’t end in a reasonable time, we’d go there instead. The protests ended after a month, so we were able to go to Ecuador after all, and we had a fabulous time. However, I didn’t spend time reading that guidebook for nothing! I figured I’d put all I learned to use and we’d go to Colombia on top of Nicaragua on this trip.

Lonely Planet Colombia

My goal is to go to South or Central America (& Mexico) somewhere in tandem with Nicaragua every year for at least the next four years, enabling us to cover most of South America (I hope!).

Spanish studies

I’ve continued studying Spanish on Duolingo, accumulating 186,031 XP in Spanish, but that doesn’t mean I’m actually able to speak Spanish. I hope some of it has sunk in, as María and the girls only speak Spanish. Mario of course speaks both Spanish and English. And I hope our language studies will help us navigate Colombia and the other Latin American countries in the years ahead.

Music

I’ve created a playlist of Latin American music on Spotify, including famous Colombian singers Juanes, Karol G, and Fanny Lu; Mexican singers Julieta Venegas & Lhasa de Sela; and French-Spanish singer Manu Chao: Latin American & Spanish beats.

Books

Of course, I always try to read books set in my destination countries. I’ve been currently reading about Colombia since I read a lot last year to learn about Nicaragua. The books I’ve read are indicated with stars and ratings. I own the books in green and will try to read them sometime during the year.

Books set in El Salvaor and Nicaragua

Books set in Nicaragua

El Salvador ↓

1. Bitter Grounds by Sandra Benitez
2. Breaking Lorca by Giles Blunt
3. The Massacre at El Mozote by Mark Danner
4. La Diáspora by Horacio Castellanos Moya
5. Senselessness by Horacio Castellanos Moya
6. The Old Patagonian Express by Paul Theroux (currently reading)
   
7. Solito by Javier Zamora
8. Lonely Planet Central America

Nicaragua ↓

1. The Country Under My Skin: A Memoir of Love & War by Gioconda Belli *****
2. Fire from the Mountain by Omar Cabezas
3. The Ladies of Managua by Eleni N. Gage (Kindle) ***
4. Blood of Brothers: Life and War in Nicaragua by Stephen Kinzer *****
5. The Jaguar Smile: A Nicaraguan Journey by Salman Rushdie ***
6. Lonely Planet Nicaragua ****
7. Nicaragua: Living in the Shadow of the Eagle by Thomas W. Walker

Books set in Colombia

Colombia ↓

1. Bolívar: American Liberator by Marie Arana
2. Killing Pablo: The Hunt for the World’s Greatest Outlaw by Mark Bowden
3. Lonely Planet Colombia 9 (Travel Guides) by Jade Bremner ****
4. The Making of Modern Colombia: A Nation in Spite of Itself by David Bushnell
5. Fruit of the Drunken Tree by Ingrid Rojas Contreras (currently reading)
   
6. The Man Who Could Move Clouds by Ingrid Rojas Contreras
7. One River: Explorations and Discoveries in the Amazon Rain Forest by Wade Davis
8. Infinite Country: A Novel by Patricia Engel
9. The Veins of the Ocean by Patricia Engel (Cuba & Florida) ****
10. Oblivion by Héctor Abad Faciolince
11. Short Walks from Bogotá: Journeys in the New Colombia by Tom Feiling
12. Return to the Dark Valley by Santiago Gamboa
13. The Robber of Memories: A River Journey Through Colombia by Michael Jacobs
14. Colombia: A Concise Contemporary History by Michael J. LaRosa
15. Chronicle of a Death Foretold by Gabriel García Márquez ***
    
16. Love in the Time of Cholera by Gabriel García Márquez *****
    
17. One Hundred Years of Solitude by Gabriel García Márquez ****
18. Misspelled Paradise: A Year in a Reinvented Colombia by Bryanna Plog ***
19. At the Devil’s Table: The Untold Story of the Insider Who Brought Down the Cali Cartel by William C. Rempel
20. The Dark Bride by Laura Restrepo
21. Delirium by Laura Restrepo
22. The Armies by Evelio Rosero
23. There Are No Dead Here: A Story of Murder and Denial in Colombia by Maria McFarland Sánchez-Moreno
24. The Informers by Juan Gabriel Vásquez
    
25. Reputations by Juan Gabriel Vásquez
26. Retrospective by Juan Gabriel Vásquez
27. The Shape of the Ruins by Juan Gabriel Vásquez
28. The Sound of Things Falling by Juan Gabriel Vásquez *****
29. Colombiano by Rusty Young
30. Lonely Planet Colombia ****

Movies

Here are some movies set in our destinations, none of which I have yet seen.

El Salvador ↓

1. Solo de noche vienes (1966)
2. Salvador (1985)
3. Our Forgotten War (1988)
4. Romero (1989)
5. Diplomatic Immunity (1991)
6. Guazapa: The Face of War in El Salvador (1994)
7. Justice and the Generals (2002)
8. Innocent Voices (Voces Inocentes) (2004)
9. The Ambassador (Norwegian: Ambassadøren) (2005)
10. Anything for Her (French: Pour elle) (2008)
11. Return to El Salvador (2010)
12. Wasp Network (2019)
13. What Lucía Saw (Llegaronde noche) (2022)

Nicaragua ↓

1. Alsino and the Condor (1982)
2. Under Fire (1983)
3. Latino (1985)
4. Walker (1987)
5. Clinton and Nadine (1988)
6. Sandino (1990)
7. Carla’s Song (1997)
8. La Yuma (2010)
9. Now & Later (2011)
10. Kill the Messenger (2014)
11. The Naked Screen (La Pantalla Desnuda) (2014)
12. Drunk Wedding (2015)

Colombia ↓

1. Rodrigo D. No Future (Rodrigo D: No Futuro) (1990)
2. Confessing to Laura (Confesión a Laura) (1991)
3. The Strategy of the Snail (La estrategia del caracol) (1993)
4. The Rose Sellers (La vendedora de rosas) (1998)
5. Maria Full of Grace (Maria, llena eres de gracia) (2004)
6. The Wind Journeys (Los viajes del viento) (2009)
7. The Colors of the Mountain (Los colores de la montaña) (2010)
8. The Two Escobars (Los dos Escobar) (2010)
9. The Towrope (La Sirga) (2012)
10. Colombia magia salvaje (2015)
11. Embrace of the Serpent (El abrazo de la serpiente) (2015)
12. Birds of Passage (Pájaros de verano) (2018)

Travel Journal

I’ve prepared two travel journals, one for El Salvador & Nicaragua and one for Colombia.

left: El Salvador & Nicaragua / right: Colombia

Warnings

After signing up for the Smart Traveler  notifications with the State Department, we got the following travel warning. It’s rather frightening, but we know many people who have traveled to Colombia and have had no problem. As with anything, it’s just bad luck to be in the wrong place at the wrong time. However, we will have to be vigilant, especially in Bogotá and Medellín.

Event: Crime in Colombia:

The U.S. Embassy reminds U.S. citizens of the continued threat of crime throughout Colombia. Recently, robberies conducted by armed individuals, have occurred in popular Bogota restaurants, cafés, and breweries, frequented by tourists and the expat community. 

U.S. citizens should be vigilant, maintain heightened situational awareness, and incorporate strong personal security practices into their daily activities.  

In the unfortunate event of a robbery, U.S. citizens should prioritize personal safety by refraining from resistance and promptly surrendering all valuables without hesitation.  Resistance can result in an abrupt escalation of violence.  Prioritizing compliance enhances the likelihood of a safer outcome in such situations. 

Should a U.S. citizen find themselves in the vicinity of a shooting, it is crucial to maintain composure.  U.S. citizens are advised to adopt a prone position on the ground and actively seek cover or concealment.   

U.S. citizens should always be alert to the possibility that criminal organizations and terrorist groups may conduct attacks with little or no warning, targeting transportation hubs, markets/shopping malls, local government facilities, police stations, military facilities, hotels, clubs, restaurants, airports, other public areas, and U.S. government facilities.  While terrorists have not specifically targeted private U.S. citizens, the attacks could result in unintended victims. 

The U.S. Department of State has issued a level three travel advisory for Colombia and recommends that U.S. citizens reconsider travel due to crime and terrorism and exercise increased caution due to civil unrest and kidnapping.

Our Itinerary

El Salvador (5 nights)

In El Salvador, my main goal is to visit with Mario, but of course I’d like to see some of El Salvador while I’m there for five nights. Mario has some recommendations, and I’m just happy to go along with whatever he recommends. If I could, I’d love to see Mayan ruins at Tazumal and Casa Blanca (Chalchuapa), Joya de Cerén, Ruinas de San Andrés, or Parque Arqueológico Cihuatán. I’d also love to see the small town of Suchitoto and Lago de Coatepeque and drive the Ruta de las Flores. I’d like to go to Quezaltepeque as well. In San Salvador, I’d like to visit the Catedral Metroplitana, Iglesisa El Rosario, Museo de la Palabra y La Imagen and the Centro Monseñor Romero.

Nicaragua (8 nights)

Our main goal in Nicaragua is to visit Adam and his family on Ometepe Island. We’ll be there for 8 nights. We haven’t yet met his wife María, or the three girls, Cristy (12), Andrea (10) and Mia (7), so we really look forward to that, although we will be mentally challenged as we need to speak Spanish to them. Even after two years of Duolingo, I’m not at all confident of my speaking and listening skills. There, we plan to mostly hang out with the family, although I hope we can go to Punta Jesus María and Ojo de Agua with the family. I also wouldn’t mind kayaking again down the Río Istian, or hiking on one of the two volcanoes, Volcán Concepción or Volcán Maderas.

Adam & María at their wedding

Adam & María at their wedding

Adam & María

Cristy, Andrea and Mia

María, Cristy, Andrea and Mia

Adam & María

Adam & María

Adam and his family

María, Cristy, Johnny, Andrea, Mia and Adam

María and their new bunnies

Colombia (15 nights)

1. Bogotá: 4 nights
   1. Stroll through Candelaria (the historic center)
   2. The Gold Museum (Museo del Oro)
   3. Climb Monserrate
   4. Plaza Bolivar
   5. The Bolero Museum
   6. Street Art Tour (book online)
   7. Mercado de las Pulgas de Usaquén
   8. Day trip to Villa de Leyva
   9. Laguna de Guatavita
   10. Hike to La Chorrera and El Chiflón waterfalls
   11. Colombian food to try:
       1. Sancocho – thick meat-filled stew with potatoes and corn
       2. Lechona – slow roasted pork
       3. Aguila or Club Colombia beer
2. Medellín: 6 nights
   1. Pablado: Upscale neighborhood – gringos and expats (We’re staying here)
   2. Comuna 13 + Las Escaleras: Book Comuna 13 Neighborhood Tour
   3. Day trip to Guatapé: Colorful lake town, climb 740 steps to El Peñol
   4. Day trip to a pueblo: Jardín, San Antonio de Pereira, or Santa Fé Antioquia Jardín (3 hours from Medellín) – coffee farms
   5. Museo de Antioquia
   6. Free Walking Tour – Real City Tours
   7. See Parque Barrio, the Forest of Lights, and Parque San Antonio
   8. Take the Metrocable up to Parque Arvi
   9. Santo Domingo and Biblioteca España
   10. The Botanical Gardens
   11. Casa de la Memoria (Colombia’s history)
   12. Parque Lleras: grab anise-flavored Colombian spirit, Aguardiente or a few Aguila beers
   13. Plaza Botero: 23 bronze statues by Fernando Botero
   14. El Castillo Museo y Jardines
3. Cartagena (5 nights) – Caribbean vibes / stay in the Old City
   1. Explore Old Town Cartagena
   2. Restaurant Carmen (most colorful street): tropical patio
      1. Zaitun – Lebanese
      2. Le Cevicheria or El Boliche (ceviche)
   3. Day trip to Islas Rosario – book boat through hotel: Gente Del Mar Island
   4. Day trip to Isla Barú: more casual and divey. Colorful beach shacks and piña colada stands & turquoise water
      1. Also accessible by 40 min. cab ride over a bridge.
      2. Drop at Playa Blanca and hop a motorbike to take you to the end of road where beach is.
      3. The Wizard: colorful beach bar
   5. Bike around town
   6. Watch sunset at Cafe del Mar
   7. Relax on the beach or at poolside

See you again in mid-April. 🙂