Tag: Central America

san juan del sur: our last night in nicaragua

wanderessence1025 April 12, 2023

Friday, January 6: It was with a heavy heart that we parted ways with Adam in San Jorge so he could make his way back to Ometepe and we could drive on to San Juan del Sur and then on to Costa Rica on Saturday. Originally, we had planned for Adam to spend one more night with us in San Juan del Sur, but he was anxious to get back to his home and his little dog, Biggy Smalls.

We felt diminished by his absence but thankful to have had time with him. It was fascinating to see the life he has chosen and to be part of it, if only briefly. We were sad and lackadaisical all afternoon and evening.

The drive from Rivas to San Juan del Sur was quite easy and straightforward, and Mike refrained from passing other cars or doing anything which might cause his license to be confiscated. We settled in to HC Liri Hotel. It was the 2nd least favorite accommodation we stayed in, with Hotel La Posada del Doctor in León being the worst.

San Juan del Sur is on the Pacific Ocean in Southwest Nicaragua. It sits beside a crescent-shaped bay and was a popular layover spot for gold prospectors headed to California in the 1850s. This portion of the Pacific has been the focus of many historic Nicaragua Canal proposals because of its location on the narrow isthmus of Rivas between the Pacific and Lake Nicaragua. In the end, the Panama Canal won out; it was built from 1903-1914.

The city is a vacation spot for tourists, a home to many expats from the U.S., Canada and Europe, and a hot spot for international surfing competitions. Families who live here work in fishing, tourism or the food and beverage industry. Adam wanted me to see it in case I might like it and agree to move there one day. It seemed too bedraggled to me; it’s a place I wouldn’t consider living. Besides, the political situation in the country is untenable, although it might be an option if Trump gets elected again.

The Mirador del Cristo de la Misericordia (Christ of the Mercy) sits on one of the highest points on the northern edge of the bay. It is one of the tallest Jesus statues in the world. We could see it from the beach but we didn’t really have time to go up and see the view from there.

Alex, Mike and I walked along the beach to El Timon, which was recommended by some friends of Mike’s who have made a home in Costa Rica. We planned to visit those friends, Carlos and Carol, at their farm near Tilarán on our way to Monteverde. El Timon is one of the largest and oldest restaurants in San Juan del Sur, a kind of beach shack by the bay. We enjoyed the laid-back vibes of the place while eating nachos.

walking along the beach to El Timon

El Timon

El Timon decked out for New Year’s

El Timon

nachos for lunch

We walked back to our hotel after lunch and relaxed on the rather shabby grounds. Mike made us drinks and we sat by the pool and admired the gorgeous sunset.

Ox cart in San Juan del Sur

mural on business in San Juan del Sur

beach at San Juan del Sur

view from HC Liri Hotel in San Juan del Sur

Mike and Alex enjoy the pool

sunset views from the hotel

views from the hotel

sunset views from the hotel

inside HC Liri Hotel

For some ridiculous reason, we took a taxi back to El Timon for dinner. The taxi driver took us on a rather long detour and I felt like we might be kidnapping victims — until he stopped to pick up his wife to take her out to dinner. 🙂

We managed to enjoy our dinner despite feeling down in the dumps. We hoped our time in Costa Rica would be good, but it would be hard since we still missed our family time with Adam. Alex would be with us for only 3 more nights, then he’d be on his way home to start what was supposed to be his first semester at George Mason University. By the time we returned home, it turned out he had decided to take a full course load at Northern Virginia Community College instead, to get another Associates Degree. Mike and I would be on our own for 7 more nights after Alex left.

Nicaragua was a challenge because of its primitive conditions, but it was eye-opening and educational. We found some gorgeous natural spots in the country, and we were thankful that Adam directed us to the best spots.

For dinner, I had grilled octopus but found some of it rather chewy. It was accompanied by fried plantains.

El Timon at dinner

octopus at El Timon

We decided to walk back on the beach after dinner, and then we prepared ourselves for the border crossing into Costa Rica on Saturday morning.

the tropical paradise of isla ometepe

wanderessence1025 April 5, 2023

Wednesday, January 4, 2023: We packed up early in Granada and left the Airbnb by 7 a.m., driving 1 1/2 hours to San Jorge, Rivas. There, we caught the 9:00 ferry (about 1 hour on the very rough seas of Lake Nicaragua) to Moyogalpa, the main gateway to Ometepe. Located on the west side of Volcán Concepción, it is the largest village and commercial center on Isla Ometepe.

the ferry to Ometepe

Adam, Alex and Mike on the ferry

ropes in the ferry to Ometepe

view of Ometepe from the ferry

We stopped to take a picture on the airport runway (it’s the only air strip on the island and is rarely used), and then went directly to Punta Jesús María, a narrow spit of land formed by water currents and sediments. In some years, during the dry season, the sand bank juts into the lake for more than 1 km and you can walk to the tip with water splashing in from both sides.

From the land spit, you can have a panoramic view of Isla Ometepe with its two volcanoes. The third volcano, which can be seen across the lake on the mainland of Nicaragua, is Mombacho, which we saw when we were in Granada.

Sadly today we weren’t lucky enough to get out on the sandbar because the lake level, still high from the rainy season, had totally submerged it.

On the long dirt road there, as we drove behind a red truck stuffed with a family of Nicaraguans standing in the back, Adam turned on the music he used to make a video he’d sent us, “Vido de Rico” (Rich Life), a song by Camilo, and played it as we videotaped the drive. Sadly, I can’t include the song on the video as I don’t have the copyright, so I used another Spanish song.

Punta Jesus Maria

Mike at Punta Jesus Maria

me at Punta Jesus Maria

Punta Jesus Maria

Mike and me at Punta Jesus Maria

We stopped at the Emerald Rainbow Caravan Hostel where Adam worked and lived for a while. The hostel has numerous vehicles that have been painted and converted to guest rooms with Turkish decor. We met some of Adam’s friends, but we talked mostly to Bob from Pennsylvania; he owns a house near the hostel. We sat and visited with him for a bit. He was very thankful that Adam had stayed with him while he had appendix surgery, which he said almost killed him. We could easily see how much people around these parts love Adam.

Emerald Rainbow Caravan Hostel

Bob, Adam’s friend from Pennsylvania

a turkey at Emerald Rainbow Caravan Hostel

Emerald Rainbow Caravan Hostel

Beware of Falling Coconuts

Emerald Rainbow Caravan Hostel

We made another stop to meet Manja, a German woman who married a Nicaraguan man, Horacio, and has two children; the girl is Elouisa but I didn’t catch the boy’s name. Manja has lived on Ometepe for 12 years. She runs a school where Adam volunteers by teaching math to the children. She has been a good friend to Adam. She happened upon Ometepe while volunteering for a women’s organization when she was young and didn’t know yet what to do with her life.

Manja’s backyard

Manja’s kids

We ate lunch at Cafe Campestre, where the food was delicious (but service was very slow). Adam played poker here every Saturday night with a group of ex-pat men. Adam and I ordered Red Snapper Ceviche (very spicy!). Alex enjoyed Red Beef Massaman: a fragrant, mildly spiced tender local beef curry with coconut milk, kaffir lime, potatoes, tamarind, and peanuts. Mike had Pumpkin and Chickpea Curry: pumpkins sauteed in coconut milk with chickpeas, fresh turmeric, lemongrass, galangal, lime and red chilies.

We chatted with the British owner Ben who has been on the island for about 20 years; he has a love of Indian food and is passionate about cooking with spices from around the world.

Manja and Elouisa joined us at the table for most of our lunch. Elouisa teased Adam a lot and kept tossing chili sauce, pepper and salt into his beer. He has a great rapport with children.

Elouisa & Adam at Cafe Campestre

Cafe Campestre

We had helped Adam buy a house on Ometepe as he loves the simple life here and has forged a great community of ex-pats, Christians at the church he attends, and Nicaraguans. He works on various farming projects with rice and plantains, and although nothing has worked out yet, he believes he’s learning from his challenges and failures.

After lunch, we went to Adam’s bright green Nica-style house which needs a lot of work (new roof, new plumbing, indoor kitchen, on and on…). It was a big mess and a lot of junk was piled everywhere. He does have a stovetop, freezer, a nice cupboard with screen panels, and wooden rocking chairs made by a carpenter friend. He also has three bicycles, a massage table, an outdoor shower, an inside toilet, and a motorbike. He laid bricks to create a walkway to the shower and back porch. Adam loves Manja’s Nica-house and there is definitely potential in his, but it needs a LOT of work!

We met his little dog, Biggy Smalls (a female), who he was very happy to see since he’d been traveling with us. Some of his neighbors had looked after her while he was gone.

Adam’s house is in Balgùe near Santa Cruz and on the Volcán Maderas side of Ometepe. Balgùe has a laid-back backpacker vibe and new accommodations and restaurants keep popping up.

Alex, Adam, Biggy and another dog at Adam’s house on Ometepe

Plantains growing in Adam’s yard

Adam’s gardens

Adam’s house on Ometepe

Ometepe’s main road runs in a rough barbell shape, circling each of the two volcanoes and running along the northern shore of the isthmus between them. The Concepción side of the island is more developed, and the major towns of Moyogalpa and Altagracia are connected by paved road.

Alex was feeling very grumpy and down on himself, feeling like he always falls short compared to his brother. He sees that Adam is very sociable and fits in easily everywhere. Alex doesn’t believe he has it in him to be sociable and easygoing with people. Of course, I think he sells himself short as I find him very personable, smart, hard-working and capable.

We stayed at El Encanto Garden Hotel, managed by Adam’s friends Josh and Carolina. From the outdoor dining area of the hotel, we enjoyed watching hummingbirds and seeing the view of Volcán Concepción.

view of Volcán Concepción from El Encanto Garden Hotel

We ate a delicious dinner at Pizzeria Mediterránea where, once again, Adam ran into a number of friends. His community here seems expansive and inclusive.

One of his friends was Emre from Turkey. Emre was setting up tables in front of the restaurant, selling bracelets and other jewelry. He said he loved Ataturk, but despises Erdogan. I bought a bracelet from him in solidarity. 🙂

Pizzeria Mediterránea

Adam, me and Alex at Pizzeria Mediterránea

Pizzeria Mediterránea

Thursday, January 5: In the morning, Mike and the boys went on a walk uphill from Adam’s house, while I enjoyed a relaxing morning writing in my journal. I showered and relaxed on the porch, enjoying the breeze and lush tropical surroundings at El Encanto Garden Hotel.

El Encanto Garden Hotel

We went to Al Ojo de Agua in the afternoon. Al Ojo de Agua is in the community of Santo Domingo on Ometepe. The water from this natural pool comes directly from Volcán Concepción. Because it is volcanic water, it is rich in potassium, magnesium, calcium, sulfur and sodium.

Another source I read said the crystal clear water was from an underground river that came from Volcán Maderas, Ometepe’s other volcano. The swimming hole is rimmed with cement to form two separate swimming areas where the water gets renewed constantly by the spring that emerges from the bottom of the upper pool.

The lower pool is almost 2 meters deep and 4o meters long. On the edge around the pools can you doze in wooden sun chairs or sit at plastic tables and order food from the restaurant or eat food that you bring yourself.

We ordered a lunch of quesadillas and tacos and fruit juices. At the far end was a platform with a rope swing where you could swing out and jump into the deep water. The boys and Mike had fun doing that while I watched over our belongings.

After a while, Alex and Adam brought us some Coco Locos, rum and coconut drinks. I brought out my selfie stick which I had never used before. We were all laughing hysterically at my utter incompetence at using the selfie stick. I was drinking out of a straw and trying to use the selfie stick and laughing when I suddenly choked and spit out the drink all over the ground. I couldn’t breathe and I thought, this is it! I’m done for! The guys tried to calm me down and I was finally able to breathe with some difficulty.

It was hilarious while at the same time utterly terrifying. Finally, after I calmed down, I decided to give the rope swing a try. I swam to the far end of the pool and thought I saw some steps in the concrete wall so I could climb out. Suddenly, I found myself being sucked into the drainage system for the pool. It took a mighty effort to pull myself free.

I finally climbed up on the platform, put myself in a Zen state of mind, and, without hesitation, jumped out over the water on the rope swing. I felt like I was a thousand pounds of dead weight and plopped heavily into the water.

Adam said he worried about me, especially after almost choking and then almost getting sucked into the drainage pipe. But I survived the rope jump without incident. I didn’t choose to do it twice!

Al Ojo de Agua

the selfie stick debacle at Al Ojo de Agua

This is the moment I choked!

Adam at Al Ojo de Agua

Mike and me at Al Ojo de Agua

Coco Locos

me swimming at Al Ojo de Agua

When we returned to El Encanto, I took a shower and relaxed some more while Alex and Adam went for a ride on Adam’s motorbike (with Alex driving).

At 4:00 in the afternoon, we rented kayaks from Adam’s friend Hector near Playa Caiman. We took the kayaks down the Rio Istian where the birds and wildlife became increasingly active as it neared sunset. We heard lots of birds in the trees and saw an egret up close; he took off in flight as we approached. We skirted the mangroves and enjoyed the silence. It was a beautiful and peaceful excursion that we all enjoyed immensely, a great way to spend our final afternoon in Ometepe.

Volcanoes of Ometepe

Playa Caiman

kayaking at Playa Caiman

Adam kayaking at Playa Caiman 2023

Alex kayaking at Playa Caiman

kayaking at Playa Caiman

an egret

cloud formations

sunset at Playa Caiman

Adam at sunset at Playa Caiman 2023

sunset at Playa Caiman

one volcano as seen from Playa Caiman

sunset at Playa Caiman

landing after our kayak trip

We enjoyed a lovely dinner in the thatched roof restaurant at Hotel Los Cocos. We listened to the song “Ola Adiós” by Vacación at the restaurant.

dinner at Hotel Los Cocos

Later, we sat out on the patio of El Encanto and talked with the managers of the hotel, Josh and Carolina, and two Dutch travelers who planned to head to Mexico for the first time on Monday. It was a fun and fascinating conversation about travel and life in Ometepe.

Friday, January 6: After another delicious breakfast at El Encanto, we packed up and drove an hour, arriving in Moyogalpa by 10 a.m. to catch the 11:30 ferry back to the mainland. We had a lot of time to kill so we walked around to get a feel for life in the island port town.

We stopped at The Corner Store for some fruit juices and cold coffee drinks. We were so happy to have Adam with us to help figure out the ferry!

Moyogalpa, on the west side of Volcán Concepción, is home to the ferry terminal for hourly boats from the mainland. It’s the nerve center for Ometepe’s fledgling tourist industry.

We wandered uphill on the main drag to have a look at the pretty Iglesia Moyogalpa and admired the nativity scenes and Christmas decorations.

breakfast at El Encanto

leaving El Encanto via dirt road

Moyogalpa

nativity scene leading to Iglesia de Moyogalpa

Iglesia de Moyogalpa

inside Iglesia de Moyogalpa

Moyogalpa

map of Ometepe in Moyogalpa

We took the hour-long ferry across to the mainland. It was the same small ferry we’d used to cross over just two days earlier.

Leaving Ometepe and its two volcanoes

After we got to the mainland, we drove Adam to a hardware store to look for a lockbox for his house, but he couldn’t find one. We drove him quickly back to the port so he could catch the 1:30 ferry. Mike passed a car so we could make it on time. We got stopped at a checkpoint by the police not far from where we passed the car. The policeman wanted to confiscate Mike’s driver’s license until Monday, which would have held us up in Nicaragua for three more days; we were due to leave the country on Saturday morning. Thanks to Adam’s knowledge of life in the country and his excellent Spanish-speaking abilities, we were able to avoid the penalty by handing over a 500-cordoba note (~$14).

Adam had told Mike as we left the airport in Managua the first day to never open his wallet in front of the police if we were ever stopped. Instead, he advised him to keep a 500-cordoba note in the glove compartment or between the two front seats to hand the police if we ever got stopped. Since the policeman seemed determined to keep the license despite Adam telling him we were leaving the country the next day, Mike pulled out the reserved note, folded it into his hand, and slipped it to the policeman. He took it quietly and waved us through.

Adam still missed the ferry but it was okay because he met a friend of his and they had a nice chat on the way back to the island.

Here is a video of our time on Isla Ometepe.

We said our goodbyes to Adam, and headed next to San Juan del Sur, where we would spend the night before crossing the border to Costa Rica.

three nights in lovely granada

wanderessence1025 March 29, 2023

Sunday, January 1: After visiting the Mirador de Catarina on our way from León (nicaragua’s laguna de apoyo & a wasted trip to volcán masaya), we drove onward to Granada and met Erick to let us into our fabulous Airbnb apartment. It was an old colonial home with an open-air plan. There was only a gate locking in our car with about 5 locks on it. It had no real front door or windows, but was open in many spots to the sky. The kitchen was nice, and it had a comfortable living area, a swimming pool, two large bedrooms and 2 1/2 baths.

By far, it was the best placed we stayed in Nicaragua. Every other place had been too cramped for the four of us, but this place had plenty of space to spread out.

Our Granada Airbnb

artwork in our Granada Airbnb

pictures in our Airbnb bathroom

Our Granada Airbnb

After settling in, we all four walked a couple of blocks to Pan de Vida, where we ordered two pizzas, one vegetarian and one with meat. Mike asked a couple at a long picnic table if we could join them; it was a kind of communal dining place, it seemed. Adam was stressed out by us intruding on the couple and said he felt he was going to be sick any minute, so Alex ran back with him to the apartment. Alex returned to the apartment to join us after dropping Adam at the apartment. With all the locks, and only one set of keys, it was very difficult for one of us to leave without the others.

The restaurant had an open-air courtyard. I enjoyed watching the people with a glass of vino blanco. Mike and Alex had passionfruit juice.

Pan de Vida

Adam seemed to be better when we returned to the apartment. Alex said Adam was just stressed out and felt bad from drinking water from the faucet in Granada.

Steps: 4,347; Miles 1.84.

Monday, January 2, 2023: This morning we took a stroll around the historical center of the Granada Department. With an estimated population of 104,980 in 2021, it is Nicaragua’s 9th most populous city. Granada is one of the country’s most important cities, both historically and politically. It has a rich colonial heritage as seen in its architecture and layout.

The city is also known as La Gran Sultana, reflecting its Moorish and Andalusian appearance, unlike its sister city and historical rival León, which displays its Castilian heritage.

Granada was founded in 1524 by Francisco Fernandez de Córdoba, making it one of the oldest cities in the New World. Because it sits on Lago de Nicaragua (Lake Nicaragua), which is navigable to the sea via the Rió San Juan, it was a trade center from its inception. The city became wealthy, but vulnerable. Pirates sacked the city three times between 1665-1670.

After independence from Spain, Granada challenged the colonial capital León for leadership of the new nation. Because of the challenges, León enlisted the services of mercenary William Walker and his band of “filibusterers.” Walker sacked Granada, declared himself president, and launched a conquest of Central America. After a number of embarrassing defeats, he fell into retreat, setting Granada on fire and leaving a sign in the ashes: “Here was Granada.” The city rebuilt and, though its power has waned, it has become an important tourist center.

In our wanderings, we saw the Cathedral, but would have to return another day when it was open. We walked around the interior of another church, Iglesia Merced, and tried to climb the tower, but it closed for siesta just as we got there.

We dipped into various hotels and cafés to see the lush interior courtyards. Colorful mosaics decorated the pedestrian streets. We enjoyed some fresh fruit juices on a shaded porch: pineapple, melon, papaya and watermelon. It was a relief to sit in the shade to escape Granada’s intense heat.

We wandered through a small market in the main square, Parque Central, which sold tee shirts and other souvenirs. We found colorful paintings, and were surprised by the paintings of young men and women sitting on toilets, which seemed to be everywhere.

A white obelisk at Plaza de la Independencia said: “A Las Glorias de 1821. Honor a los Heroes 1811.” It is dedicated to the heroes of the 1821 struggle for independence.

Capilla del Sagrado Corazón

Calle le Calzada

Egyptian relief

inside a bar and courtyard

Calle le Calzada

hotel along Calle le Calzada

inside the hotel

all decked out for Christmas

hotel courtyard

Calle le Calzada

Catedral de Granada

hotel in Granada

market at Parque Central

Catedral de Granada

obelisk at Plaza de la Independencia

fruit juices

Granada streets

Iglesia La Merced

interior of Iglesia La Merced

Granada’s colorful buildings

me in Granada

Choco Museo

We enjoyed a great mini tour at a chocolate museum: Choco Museo. After teaching us everything about the process of chocolate-making, our guide had us do a little jig while we crushed coffee beans. We chanted: “Baté, baté, chocolate” (mix, mix, mix the chocolate), while scissoring our knees back and forth. We must be the most spastic, uncoordinated family in the world! It was so silly, and so much fun. 🙂

According to a dial, when chocolate was used for trading, as a type of currency, it cost 1,000 beans for a woman (mujer). A rabbit was 30 beans and a slave was 500.

The Mayas were the first to discover the delicious secrets of cacao around 2000 B.C. They cultivated trees in their own gardens for daily consumption. Everyone, regardless of status, could enjoy a chocolate drink. They invented the preparation.

We learned a lot about cacao:

The cacao tree grows in warm and humid tropical regions of the world. Its fruits, cacao pods, grow directly from its trunk.
Cacao leaves are very large. On the jungle floor, they keep the tree moist, key to its health, and feed it with essential nutrients.
The cacao flower is beautiful, attracting midges to pollinate it. It takes 3 months for a flower to turn into a ripe cacao pod.
The cacao pod is the fruit of the cacao tree. It is shaped like a football and its color may vary from yellow to red or green. Each pod contains an average of 40 beans.
The cacao bean is the seed of the cacao pod. Each cacao bean has a thin shell. The inside part, called “nibs” is the raw material of chocolate making.

We also learned about the process of making chocolate:

The harvest: When ripe, cacao pods are cut from the tree and kept together on the floor. Each pod is cut in half by machete, making sure not to cut any beans inside. The sweet white pulp and cacao beans inside the pod are separated in a plastic bag for the fermentation process. The shell of the pod is full of fiber but is usually used as fertilizer.
Fermentation lasts about six days. The white pulp and cacao beans are placed in wooden boxes and covered with banana leaves and jute bags to conserve rising temperatures (up to 50°C). The beans turn from purple to brown and the flavor of cacao develops in the seed.
The drying process takes generally five days, followed by a quality control process of cacao beans, using a guillotine.

Some interesting figures about chocolate:

One hectare of land > 1,000 cacao trees > 40,000 cacao pods > 1,000 kg of cacao > 10,000 chocolate bars

We had fun learning about the chocolate-making process and participating in the little jig. Of course we also had to buy some products, including some cacao lotion for me and chocolate bars for all of us.

Choco Museum

Choco Museum 2023

Choco Museum

cacao pod at the Choco Museum

Choco Museum

our guide at the Choco Museum

Choco Museum

On our way back to our Airbnb, we popped into the Garden Cafe and determined we’d go there on Tuesday. After getting plenty hot walking around, we enjoyed lounging and swimming in the pool at our Airbnb.

walking back to the Airbnb

peeking inside the Garden Cafe

Garden Cafe

streets of Granada

Danny’s Isletas Boat Tour

In the afternoon, we went on Danny’s Isletas Boat Tour. On the tour, with Victor as our tour guide and Guadalupe as our boat captain, we enjoyed the beautiful nature of the islands of Granada, visiting the ancient Fort of San Pablo on an islet, as well as the Monkey Island. We saw three types of monkeys: capuchinos, howler monkeys, and spider monkeys. It was breezy, cool and refreshing, a nice escape from Granada’s heat.

Many of the islets are occupied. Some are privately owned and hold homes or vacation houses. Hotels and shops are established on some of the islands and boating tours are available.

The Fort of San Pablo on one islet was built in order to protect the city of Granada from pirates in the 18th century.

We saw a whole flock of egrets in one tree.

On the Isletas tour we could see Mombacho Volcano covered in cloud. Mombacho Volcano is 1345m and is the defining feature of Granada’s skyline. It is still active and puffs out smoke periodically.

We saw many of the homes and restaurants that occupy the islets. One spider monkey got very close to our boat and provided a good bit of entertainment. According to Victor: “Monkeys good in sex. Females mate 3 times a day for 8-25 minutes when in heat.” This comment got a lot of laughs.

Danny’s Isletas Boat Tour

Mike, Adam and Alex on Danny’s Isletas Boat Tour

Danny’s Isletas Boat Tour 2023

Danny’s Isletas Boat Tour

Fort of San Pablo

view from Fort of San Pablo

me, Mike, Alex and Adam at Fort of San Pablo 2023

Alex and Adam at Fort of San Pablo

Adam at Fort of San Pablo

view from Fort of San Pablo

view from Fort of San Pablo 2023

view from Fort of San Pablo

view from Fort of San Pablo of Mombacho

Danny’s Isletas Boat Tour

Volcán Mombacho

Danny’s Isletas Boat Tour

Back in Granada

When we returned to Granada, we went to Pita Pita, a Mediterranean restaurant, for dinner. It was packed, so service was very slow. I enjoyed the special watermelon mojito. We all shared a delectable fried cauliflower with a tahini dipping sauce that I couldn’t get enough of. I think I ate most of the entire plate. I also enjoyed homemade beef lasagna with a green salad, most of which I had to take back to our apartment because I ate so much of the cauliflower! 🙂

Pita Pita

Watermelon mojito at Pita Pita

cauliflower and tahini at Pita Pita

Sadly, my FitBit was at the end of its life and quit charging, thus I could no longer measure my steps on our trip. 😦

Tuesday, January 3: We started our morning by going to the cool leather shop Soy Nica, where Alex bought a bag for his girlfriend Jandira and I bought a couple of bags for myself.

Soy Nica is a family-run business. Its leather goods are 100% handmade by local craftsmen using cow leather and skin. They never use plastic, carton, rubber, fabric, etc. Leathers come from Nicaraguan cows. I seem to remember the owner said he was from Denmark, and he, like Adam, never wants to return to Europe (America in Adam’s case). The designs are Scandinavian.

We dropped off our goods in the apartment and Mike and I went by ourselves to visit Granada Cathedral, which had been closed when we went by yesterday. Located right on the Central Plaza, the cathedral is a bright yellow neoclassical church originally built in 1583 and destroyed countless times since. This version was built in 1915. The interior of the church features three naves and four chapels and extensive stained glass windows set into the dome. There were beautiful new-looking frescoes painted on the ceilings. We hoped to go up into the bell tower but we could never find an access point.

The Central Plaza was alive with activity, with vendors and live music. The Cathedral provides an iconic backdrop to the city’s cultural life.

inside Granada Cathedral

We were finally able to go up the bell tower at Iglesia La Merced. Built in 1534, La Merced is one of the oldest cathedrals in Central America. It was razed by pirates in 1655 and rebuilt with its current baroque facade between 1781-1783. It was one of the most important churches in Granada until its main tower was destroyed in 1854 by William Walker’s forces; it was restored with the current elaborate interior and the rebuilding of the tower in 1862. Today Catholics come to see the Virgen de Fatima. La Merced has three interior naves and is located two blocks west of the Central Plaza, where it sits on a small corner plaza surrounding by other fascinating colonial buildings.

From the bell tower, we enjoyed expansive views over the small town of Granada.

view from Iglesia La Merced

view of Granada Cathedral from Iglesia La Merced 2023

view from Iglesia La Merced

We walked further down the street to see the rather dilapidated yet attractive colonial Iglesia de Xalteva, which houses La Virgen de la Asunción. It was rebuilt in the 1890s after being heavily damaged by an earthquake.

We strolled through some of the side streets where we enjoyed the colorful homes and their cool doors and birdcage windows. We could also see Volcán Mombacho.

Iglesia de Xalteva

me with one of Granada’s doors

streets of Granada

Parque Central

hotel near Parque Central

birdcage houses

Granada Cathedral

view of Volcán Mombacho from Granada

We met Alex and Adam for lunch at the Garden Cafe, where we enjoyed fresh delicious fish tacos, sandwiches and limeade. I also bought a cute pair of earrings after browsing the cafe’s enticing shop.

Garden Cafe

Fish tacos at Garden Cafe

Garden Cafe

Finally, the boys returned to the Airbnb while Mike and I did a quick walk through the Centro Cultural Museos de Convento San Francisco. Not quite as nice as the museum we loved in León, it was a sprawling building with numerous courtyards and art for sale. I especially loved the Nicaraguan paintings in the museum. I wish we’d had more time there, but we’d made plans to visit Laguna de Apoyo for the afternoon with the guys.

Centro Cultural Museos de Convento San Francisco

layout of Granada

Centro Cultural Museos de Convento San Francisco

For our afternoon trip back to Laguna de Apoyo, you can read my previous post: nicaragua’s laguna de apoyo & a wasted trip to volcán masaya.

After our afternoon at the lagoon, we returned to the Airbnb, where the guys cooked up some steaks they’d bought at a butcher shop. I ate my leftover lasagna from Pita Pita.

Here’s a video of our time in Granada.

We started packing up everything for an early departure in the morning. We’d reserved a spot on the 9:00 a.m. ferry to Ometepe Island. We’d been told to be there an hour early, which meant we had to leave Granada by 6:45 a.m.

nicaragua’s laguna de apoyo & a wasted trip to volcán masaya

wanderessence1025 March 22, 2023

Sunday, January 1, 2003: We started the New Year by leaving León and driving a scenic route south of Managua. During our whole time in Nicaragua, we managed to miss the capital altogether, as planned. I had heard it is one of the ugliest capitals in the world. Adam, however told us that he loved Managua — the energy and the vibe. He loved riding his motorbike through the city and zigzagging in and out of traffic. Maybe we’ll have to check it out whenever we return.

We drove high on a mountain ridge with densely forested mountains all around us. After about two hours, as we approached Catarina, Adam pointed out the spot where he hit a dog on his motorbike and went skidding across the road during his first year in Nicaragua. He was in a daze and kindly Nicaraguans came out to help him. They called for help and got him to a hospital. He was terribly shaken and the love people showered on him was what made him fall in love with the country. He seemed very nostalgic about the whole experience.

Mirador de Catarina

We arrived at Catarina, a town close to Masaya. It is famous for its observation point over the Laguna de Apoyo (Apoyo Lagoon), as well as for its flower nurseries. The Catarina Mirador is one of the highest hills surrounding the Apoyo Lagoon and the view is superb. It has a bit of a circus atmosphere with scores of vendors selling every imaginable thing and musicians serenading people for money.

Mirador de Catarina

The Apoyo Lagoon Natural Reserve protects Laguna de Apoyo, a volcanic lake, and its drainage basin. Laguna de Apoyo is a type of lake that normally retains water and allows no outflow to other external bodies of water, such as rivers or oceans; drainage converges instead into lakes or swamps, permanent or seasonal. It occupies the caldera of an extinct volcano. The lake is round with a diameter of 6.6km. It is 175m deep and occupies an area of 19.44 square kilometers.

We ate lunch at Rancho Esperanza, an open-air two-story restaurant with a bit of a view. I enjoyed grilled chicken with jalapeño sauce, tostones (smashed and refried plantains), and grilled onions & peppers, accompanied by a delicious salad.

tostones at at Rancho Esperanza

lunch at Rancho Esperanza

After lunch, we strolled along the mirador where people were promenading on horses. A young girl rode a virtual “unicorn” with a gold horn and a rainbow-colored mane.

The Catarina viewpoint is a popular place among Nicaraguans during weekends; families and friends gather to enjoy the view, nosh on snacks from street vendors or enjoy leisurely restaurant meals. Families were out in droves because it was a Sunday and New Year’s Day.

Mirador de Catarina

Laguna de Apoyo

Mike, Alex and Adam at Laguna de Apoyo

Alex, me and Mike at Laguna de Apoyo

Mirador de Catarina

Adam at Mirador de Catarina

Alex at Mirador de Catarina

Laguna de Apoyo

Laguna de Apoyo 2023

Laguna de Apoyo

As we moseyed our way out of the congested mirador by car, I saw a vendor selling miniature paintings, so I hopped out of the car and quickly bought two paintings: one of the Nicaraguan national bird, the mot mot, and the other a volcano with storks at its base. Both cost me $8. The traffic was moving slowly, so I was able to hop back in easily. Souvenir shops and nurseries lined the path and Death personified strolled with his cane along the road.

leaving Mirador de Catarina

souvenir shops at Mirador de Catarina

souvenirs at Mirador de Catarina

death personified?

nurseries at Mirador de Catarina

We then drove onward to Granada, where we would stay for three nights.

Posada Ecológica la Abuela

Tuesday, January 3: On a hot Tuesday afternoon while we were in Granada, we ventured again to Laguna de Apoyo, but this time to a different access point from where we stopped in Catarina. Adam had visited Posada Ecológica la Abuela before, and he convinced us to go there, although there are many such places around the lagoon that are equally enticing. It is a lively bit of paradise and on this day, it was filled to the brim with Nicaraguan families still celebrating the holidays. We relaxed, nibbled on snacks, drank Toñas, the Nicaraguan beer, and piña coladas, and swam in the lagoon. The boys went down a steep slide into the water and jumped off platforms.

Mike swam out toward the middle of the crater lake. Adam said he fears going out too far from shore; there is something about the deep dark water that unsettles him. While swimming, we could see colorful birds in the trees and monkeys hanging and jumping from tree branches.

It was nice to cool off for the afternoon, as Granada had been very hot that morning.

Posada Ecológica la Abuela

Nicaragua’s bird: the mot mot

Posada Ecológica la Abuela

Toña: a Nicaraguan beer

Posada Ecológica la Abuela at Laguna de Apoyo

Posada Ecológica la Abuela

It was a relaxing afternoon until we decided to go to Volcán Masaya to see the molten magma at nightfall. What a complete waste of time. The gatekeepers took $40 ($10/person) without mentioning a 30-car backup in the park; the cars were waiting for a very limited number of parking spots. They would only let in one car for each car that left; we weren’t moving at all. Alex and Adam got out and walked a long way up the line of cars and never found the front of the line. It would have taken hours to see it but we weren’t about to wait around that long. We did a T-turn and went back to the gate and protested enough that the gatekeepers grudgingly returned our money. What an utter waste of time, because it had taken us a while to get there. I really hate tourist attractions that don’t have a system!

We headed back to our Airbnb in Granada for our last night there.

welcoming the new year in león, nicaragua

wanderessence1025 March 15, 2023

Friday, December 30, 2022: After our breakfast in Hotel San José in Matagalpa, we showered, packed and were on our way to León. I was disappointed because it seemed Mike had lost the Nicaragua guidebook and the nice map of Nicaragua I’d brought. There was a city walk in the guidebook for León, and now it seemed we wouldn’t be able to take that walk. We looked in all the suitcases and bags and in the car, but it was nowhere to be found.

As we drove, we passed acres of coffee beans drying along the road. People tending the beans were wrapped up in so much clothing that not an inch of their skin was exposed. Coffee production is obviously king around Matagalpa Department.

We also passed a large rice production area, cultivated and irrigated for year-round farming.

León

Overall, we drove an easy 2 1/2 hours from Matagalpa to León. We checked into our hotel, Hotel La Posada Del Doctor. The room was tiny, one double bed pushed up against a wall (I hate beds pushed up against walls!), and two single beds with a tiny and quite derelict-looking bathroom. The outdoor open courtyard was nice, however, as was the shaded seating area around the edges with comfortable chairs and pool tables.

Hotel La Posada Del Doctor

decor at Hotel La Posada Del Doctor

We promptly went out to walk around the city, sadly without that lost guidebook. It seemed our wanderings would be aimless, after all.

We headed first to León’s Cathedral, but as we were hungry we detoured around and behind it to the Mercado in search of lunch. My favorite thing was a Manuelita, a kind of crepe. I also had fried cheese and a plantain. While at lunch in the market, a guy started yelling at Adam, who told him, “Despacio (“slowly, slowly”).” The guy had been staring at us, Adam said. The woman who sold us our food told us the man was a regular there who suffered mental problems.

Alex, Adam and me at the Mercado

After lunch we went to the Catedral de León, also known as the Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary. It is a significantly important and historic landmark in León. The Cathedral was awarded World Heritage Site status by UNESCO.

The Cathedral’s construction lasted between 1747 and 1814, and it was consecrated by Pope Pius IX in 1860. It has maintained the status of being the largest cathedral in Central America and one of the best known in the Americas due to its distinct architecture and special cultural importance.

Catedral de León, officially the Basilica de la Asunción, is a pantheon of Nicaraguan culture. The tomb of Rubén Darío, Leon’s favorite son, is on one side of the altar, guarded by a sorrowful lion and the inscription: “Nicaragua is created of vigor and glory, Nicaragua is made for freedom.”

We also walked around inside and sat down for a moment of silence and to absorb the spiritual atmosphere. Of course, we admired another huge nativity scene.

We bought tickets to climb up the tower and walk around the rooftop. We didn’t have great views because of the heavy white concrete railing, but the domes on top were artistic and pleasingly arranged. The roof was a dazzling white; with the white domes and the blue sky, it brought back memories of Santorini, Greece. We did manage to enjoy some views of the flat plain around León and the cone-shaped volcanoes rising up in the distance.

Catedral de León, officially the Basilica de la Asunción

interior of Catedral de León

Nativity scene in Catedral de León

rooftop of Catedral de León

volcanoes in the distance

Catedral de León rooftop

Catedral de León rooftop 2023

Catedral de León rooftop

me on the Catedral de León rooftop

Alex on Catedral de León rooftop

Catedral de León rooftop

In front of the Cathedral was a large Christmas tree and saddled fake horses all lined up. Mike walked through a bunch of pigeons to see if they’d scatter, but they just ignored him. We found more brilliantly-hued nativity scenes.

After walking around the top of the cathedral, Alex, who was sadly still sick, returned to the hotel to rest and Adam walked around on his own to check out nearby gyms.

holiday decor at Catedral de León

ponies in front of Catedral de León

nativity scene in front of Catedral de León

We went to the Museo Histórico de la Revolución, which has seen better days. An eerie emptiness abounded: offices were bare, staircases were covered in dust and debris, walls were shedding hunks of paint amidst pigeon droppings. Tiny marks in the wall were bullet holes from intense fighting that once took place.

The guide explained about Nicaragua’s complicated past and who the major players were, especially Augusto César Sandino (May 18, 1895 – February 21, 1934), the Nicaraguan revolutionary and leader of a rebellion between 1927 and 1933 against the United States’ occupation of Nicaragua. Despite being referred to as a “bandit” by the U.S. government, his exploits made him a hero throughout much of Latin America, where he became a symbol of resistance to American Imperialism.

We also learned of Carlos Fonseca and others who fought for years to upend Anastasio Somoza Debayle’s dynasty. We got an overview of the Nicaraguan revolutionaries who stood up against the Somoza dictatorship. The museum traces the history from the devastating earthquake of 1972 to the Sandinista overthrow.

The Somoza family ruled for over 4 decades (1936-1979), with increasing dissatisfaction felt by Nicaragua’s citizens. The key turning point was in 1972 when a huge earthquake killed thousands and left huge populations homeless. Somoza’s National Guard embezzled much of the aid money, inciting citizens to fury and a slow-burning rebellion.

The guide then took us up on the rusted corrugated iron roof – the metal sheets were held down by rocks – for views over León. The roof had gaping holes and crudely-drawn yellow arrows pointing where we should walk. The museum, housed in a former Somoza government building, was a central location during the Sandinista revolution. Abandoned and in decay since 1979, former Sandinista revolutionary fighters worked to turn it into a museum.

We clambered across, fearful of one of the metal sheets collapsing. Luckily, we found an amazing view of León’s churches and the landscape beyond that in the not-too-distant past had been so ravaged by war.

The building was very derelict and our guide worried for its future. She mentioned the Chinese wanted to buy it but for what purpose, she didn’t know.

Museo Histórico de la Revolución

Augusto César Sandino

Carlos Fonseca

the derelict Museo Histórico de la Revolución

rooftop of Museo Histórico de la Revolución

view of Catedral de León from the rooftop of Museo Histórico de la Revolución

Museo Histórico de la Revolución

Leaving the Museum of the Revolution, we found some street art that was revolutionary-themed.

revolutionary-themed street art

streets of León

We also walked by an unknown church and the Iglesia La Recolección. The 1786 Iglesia de la Recolección is considered the city’s most beautiful church, a Mexican-style Baroque confection of swirling columns and bas-relief medallions that portray the life of Christ. The lavishly decorated facade is dyed a deep yellow accented with cream and peeling paint.

church in León

Iglesia La Recolección

Because we’d had such a big lunch, all we had for dinner were little nibbles. The guys drank beers as they played pool on the borders of the courtyard.

pool tables were under the eaves along the edges

Steps: 8,670; Miles: 3.68.

Las Peñitas

Saturday, December 31, 2022: NEW YEAR’S EVE: After out typical Nicaraguan breakfast (scrambled eggs, plantains, red beans and rice, toast and cheese), we drove out to Las Peñitas, a wide sandy Pacific beach fronted by a cluster of surfer hostels and boutique hotels. Smallish regular waves make for decent surfing, especially for beginners.

We cruised up and down looking for the most welcoming spot to spend the morning. We stopped at Playa Roca Hotel and were told we could park there as long as we bought something in the restaurant. We sat on an L-shaped wooden bench around a coffee table under a thatched roof. It was hot as it had been since we’d arrived in León, but we had on our bathing suits and were ready to beach it. Rough rocks formed a kind of headland on the left side of the crescent beach where waves were battering the rocks. Alex did his typical handstand atop one of the rocks. The guys went bodysurfing and got tossed about quite a bit. I went in myself and was promptly knocked over by a wave and had trouble regaining my footing.

Some of the other thatch roofed restaurants and hotels along the beach were gussied up with waving green palm trees. We saw hand-drawn signs for surfing classes and rooms for rent: “Rento habitacion.” American music played over a loudspeaker and crashing waves added an offbeat rhythm to the tunes.

After a while, I ate a shrimp taco, rice and beans and a Victoria Frost, while “You’re my angel” serenaded me. The guy who worked at the bar was super friendly.

Nica breakfast at the hotel

Playa Roca Hotel at Las Peñitas

Playa Roca

Las Peñitas

Mike, Adam and Alex at Playa Roca

Las Peñitas

Playa Roca

Playa Roca Hotel 2023

Playa Roca

Las Peñitas

Las Peñitas 2023

Las Peñitas

Adam singing

the friendly waiter at Playa Roca

my shrimp taco

Next to Las Peñitas, following the same stretch of beach is Poneloya. The two villages are similar but Las Peñitas is a bit more geared toward backpackers and other foreign visitors.

Bienvenidos Poneloya – Las Peñitas

León

Back in León, the four of us went to the street to find a rickshaw. A guy with a single bench seat insisted he could carry all four of us, but we knew it was impossible no matter what configuration we tried. Luckily we found another rickshaw and split up and took both to the museums.

Museo Rubén Darío

We headed first to the Museo Rubén Darío, with its pretty green courtyard. León is the home of the country’s most famous poet, Rubén Darío.

Félix Rubén García Sarmiento (January 18, 1867 – Febraury 6, 1916), known as Rubén Darío, was a Nicaraguan poet who initiated the Spanish-language literary movement known as modernismo (modernism) that flourished at the end of the 19th century. Darío had a great and lasting influence on 20th century Spanish-language literature and journalism.

This was the poet’s home and national museum. It was in the house where he lived the first 14 years of his life. He started writing poetry here at age 12. His first poem is on display here as are various personal effects. Everyday items provide a window into well-to-do Nicaraguan life in the late 1800s. Some highlights were handwritten manuscripts of Darío’s famous works, his Bible, the bed where he died “an agonizing death” and the fancy clothes he wore as the ambassador to Spain, and a library with curlicued wooden bookcases. His work was featured in Mundial magazines, a Peruvian weekly magazine that marked the birth of modern journalism in Peru, both for its graphic design and its content, when it appeared in Lima on April 28, 1920. It ran through 576 issues to 4 September 1931.

The house itself was very cool but all the information was in Spanish so we didn’t learn much about the poet from the museum. We had never read any of his poetry so Adam pulled up one of his poems online and read aloud the translated version of a verse.

Nicaragua is famous for its many poets, many of whom inspired the Revolution.

Museo Rubén Darío

Rubén Darío poem

Museo Rubén Darío

Rubén Darío at age 23

Museo Rubén Darío

Centro de Arte Fundación Oriz-Gurdián

We then went to the Centro de Arte Fundación Oriz-Gurdián, founded in 2000. The museum is made of four colonial houses replete with ornate interior courtyards. The sprawling one-story buildings occupy at least two full city blocks. Much of the museum roof is open to the sky. It showcases a vast collection: early pre-Columbian and Spanish colonial religious artifacts to modern and contemporary artworks.

The Art Center was born on December 5, 2000 with the inauguration of the Norberto Ramirez house. In November of 2002, Derbyshire House opened. In 2006, the house Delgadillo opened and in 2013, the House Deshon followed. The four houses with large corridors, lounges and gardens, built between the 18th and 19th centuries, are examples of the most authentic León architecture of those times. They belonged to illustrious families of the city. They were acquired and restored from the year 1999 by the Ortiz-Gurdián family with the desire that they would house in the interior the collection of universal art and be enjoyed by their Nicaraguan compatriots and international visitors.

The houses showcase art as follows:

The House Norberto Ramirez: the collection “from occidental art to Nicaraguan art.”
House Derbyshire: exhibition of Latin American painting.
House Delgadillo: the collection of “Integración and Grupo Praxis.”
House Deshon: contemporary art collection from the Ortiz-Gurdián Foundation.

I loved this museum. This was definitely my favorite place in León. I loved not only the South American and Nicaraguan art, but the buildings themselves, which were works of art themselves with their numerous courtyards, bubbling fountains and fish ponds. There was even a section on European art (not as interesting to me) and modern art, including a Marilyn Monroe series by Andy Warhol. I found the Latin American art most intriguing.

Centro de Arte Fundación Oriz-Gurdián

Centro de Arte Fundación Oriz-Gurdián 2023

Centro de Arte Fundación Oriz-Gurdián

me at Centro de Arte Fundación Oriz-Gurdián

Centro de Arte Fundación Oriz-Gurdián

work by Oswaldo Guayasamin of Ecuador

Centro de Arte Fundación Oriz-Gurdián

Nicaraguan paintings

Nicaraguan paintings 2023

Nicaraguan paintings

Nicaraguan paintings 2023

Nicaraguan paintings

Centro de Arte Fundación Oriz-Gurdián

Strolling around town

As we strolled around town, we came upon a statue, “Los Motivos del Lobo” in front of Iglesia de San Francisco (Church of St. Francis). Its origins date to 1639. The statue shows the parable of St. Francis and the Wolf of Gubbio. St. Francis gained his reputation for having control over animals when he persuaded this man-eating wolf to convert to eating more conventional food and become a mascot for the town. Rubén Darío wrote: “Los Motivos del Lobo” (“The Motives of the Wolf”) which tells the story from the wolf’s perspective.

The 1639 Iglesia de San Francisco is one of the oldest churches in the city, a national heritage site with lots of gold, a gorgeous nave, and a rococo interior. Abandoned between 1830-1881, it was later refurbished with two elaborate altarpieces for San Antonio and Our Lady of Mercy.

“Los Motivos del Lobo” in front of Iglesia de San Francisco

Iglesia de San Francisco

On the street, Adam picked up a squishy Sopa de Leche, a milky flan or custard with brown sugar. Alex found he loved it.

After strolling around town a bit more, we returned to our hotel where Alex and Adam played pool for a while before we went to dinner at El Bodegón, a cozy and breezy courtyard restaurant with excellent food but not the greatest service. I welcomed in the New Year with a tarmindo mojito. I had Tostadas de Vegetales and Mike had Quesadillas de Lechón.

There was a large party (tour group) in the restaurant which caused us to have to wait a very long time for our food.

New Year’s Eve dinner at El Bodegón

Tamarindo Mojito

Mike, Alex and Adam at El Bodegón

decor at El Bodegón

Tostadas de Vegetales

After dinner we wandered through the downtown, still freshly festooned and lit up for the holidays and watched entire families promenading in their finery.

another nativity

the festooned town of León

a church along the way

a church we popped into

I was too tired to welcome in the New Year, so I went to bed while the rest of the family sat outdoors and played pool and talked to a couple with young children who lived part time in León.

Steps: 4,241; Miles: 1.8 (My FitBit was not working properly, nor was it charging. I had to give up on step-counting after today).

Sunday, January 1, 2023: HAPPY NEW YEAR!

We had breakfast one last time in the hotel courtyard: this time pancakes and scrambled eggs for Mike and me, the traditional Nica breakfast for the boys. We left the hotel after checking out the relief map of Nicaragua and the rotund doctor.

relief map of NIcaragua

rotund doctor

We got packed up for our drive to Granada. As we packed the car, surprise, surprise, I found the Nicaragua guidebook and map under the seat in the trunk. A lot of good it did for the city walk I wanted to do in León.

On our way out of town, we drove by the Municipal Theater. It was the first theater in Nicaragua. Construction started in 1884 and the theater was inaugurated one year later. It was one of the cultural hot spots of Central America, visited by the rich who enjoyed piano concerts, opera, and other cultural presentations.

The facade of the building was remodeled in 1913 and years later the complete interior was remodeled. In 1956 a fire almost completely destroyed the building. The outer walls were the only parts left standing. Nowadays the theater provides a stage for cultural shows and presentations.

Municipal Theater

Finally, we drove by “El Calvario” Church, one of Nicaragua’s most beautiful churches. It was built in the early 17th century. The church has a neoclassical facade, which together with its bright colors makes it stand out among the surrounding buildings at the end of Calle Real. Its design has both Spanish and French elements. It is notable for its symmetry of design. In the year 2000, a fence was added to protect the church.

“El Calvario” Church

Here is a video of our time in León.

We left León and headed toward Granada.

travel to nicaragua & finding our way to matagalpa

wanderessence1025 March 8, 2023

In Transit – from D.C. to Miami to Managua

Tuesday, December 27, 2022: We left home at the ungodly hour of 3:15 a.m., taking an Uber to Reagan International Airport. Our flight on American Airlines took off at 6:30 a.m. and landed us three hours later in Miami, 924 miles. The only refreshment was a Lotus Biscoff, a cardboard-like gingerbread cookie. Mike had tomato juice, which I never think of ordering but looked refreshing. Alex slept almost the entire flight, which I envied. We had a period of some turbulence, surprising because we weren’t in clouds but under sunny skies. 🙂

There was a nasty body odor smell throughout the cabin that made for unpleasantness. A curly-headed toddler was screaming his head off across the aisle from us before takeoff. It was so obnoxious. The only way the parents could calm him down was to show him either a video or a video game on the phone. What a brat!

Taking off from D.C.

In flight over the U.S. East Coast

coming in for a landing in Miami (South Beach below)

In Miami we walked a long way to Gate D7, then grabbed some lunch. I had a turkey and Swiss sandwich, Mike a tuna wrap, and Alex an egg, cheese and bacon empañada. I also got a Pure Green Cold Pressed Juice with apple, lemon and ginger (& kale, spinach, cucumber, celery, zucchini and romaine) that gave my stomach somersaults.

The plane loaded quickly in Miami but we took off an hour late because of seven planes ahead of us. The flight was 1,017 miles over 2:46 hours.

A guy behind us was talking about his female friend who got murdered and robbed of her purse and phone in Nicaragua. He was looking to adopt her 12-year-old daughter and had three children of his own.

I got stuck in the middle seat with Mike at the window and Alex in the aisle seat. Alex worked on Soduko and was reading Love & Math that he got for Christmas. Mike was chuckling over Nadine’s escapades in the book Happier Than a Billionaire.

Adam had been writing to say he was in Managua and planned to shop some before meeting us at the airport. I looked forward to seeing him after nearly three years.

landing in Managua – volcano below

Coming into Managua

Arrival in Nicaragua and onward to Matagalpa

We arrived in Managua at 12:35 p.m., but we had to pick up our luggage and go through customs; there, I had to stand in a separate line to have my carry-on bag searched. I had brought my Canon Power Shot, which I never use but carry only as a backup in case something happens to my phone; for some reason it showed on their scanner and they didn’t know what it was. Mike and Alex went ahead to get the rental car from Alamo, a Toyota Rush, and when I was finally released by customs, I gave Adam a big hug. I was so happy to see him! We thought he must have grown because he seemed super tall to us all.

Mike got the rental car and we piled all our luggage in the back and began our drive to Matagalpa. We were on the road, a decent 2-lane road shared with moto taxis and motorbikes. Mountains loomed before us.

Driving to Matagalpa

We stopped to use a bathroom and get some snacks. Adam wanted us to try Chicharrones con Sabor a limon. We also got a bag of Del Rancho Chicharrones. Both were different versions of fried pork skins. It has taken me a long time to get used to my once-vegan sons becoming fully carnivorous.

We drove ever so slowly behind lumbering overloaded trucks, moto taxis and horses pulling carts for 2 1/2 hours to Matagalpa.

Our hotel in Matagalpa, Hotel San José, had an interior courtyard with a colorful nativity scene. The back of the courtyard was bursting with tropical plants. We enjoyed cool beers in the hotel courtyard. It was wonderful to all be together again.

Hotel San José

courtyard at Hotel San José

Mike, Adam, Alex and me at Hotel San José

Matagalpa is one of Nicaragua’s largest cities, but it is fairly provincial and laid back. Soaring mountains circle the city’s central neighborhoods. Coffee, which accounts for the city’s historic wealth, is produced in the hillsides. The city serves as a good urban base to explore the surrounding countryside of primary forest, gushing waterfalls and coffee plantations.

We went to dinner at Casa Blanca, where I enjoyed shrimp with garlic sauce, and then we wandered through a magical park, Darío Park, lit with Christmas lights and the biggest nativity scene I had ever seen. We found a statue in the park of Rubén Darío (1867-1916), a Nicaraguan poet who had a great and lasting influence on 20th century Spanish-language literature and journalism. He has been praised as the “Prince of Castilian Letters” and undisputed father of the modernismo literary movement.

Across from the park, we saw the pink San José Church, relevant in the architecture and history of the city. Formerly called the Church of Laborío or Dolores, in 1881 it served as a barracks for rebellious Indians. It’s an elegant construction with a colonial façade to which a bell tower with a clock was added. Large swaths of the pink paint were peeled off so it seemed rather sad and derelict.

We were all exhausted from our long day of travel, so we exchanged Christmas gifts in our long narrow 4-bedded room and zonked out early. Sadly, the shoes we gave Adam for Christmas were too small but he thought they’d stretch. I could have kicked myself for not buying pairs in two sizes just in case one didn’t fit. 😦

Alex and Adam at Casa Blanca

my shrimp dinner

statue of Rubén Darío

Rubén Darío Park

San José Church

Steps: 8,644; Miles: 3.64.

Reserva Natural Cerro Apante

Wednesday, December 28: Our breakfast at Hotel San José was served up at a private table; it was a meal we would eat frequently in both Nicaragua and Costa Rica: scrambled eggs with peppers and onions, fried plantain chips, a slice of soft cheese (like Feta), and rice and red beans.

We drove to the start of the hike at Reserva Natural Cerro Apante, a cloud forest reserve with a cool pleasant climate. The sign at the outset said:

Sendero El Roble
Distancia 3.2 kmts ± 3 horas
Dificultad: moderamente dificil
Parqueo C$ 30

The reserve has an area of 1,962 hectares. Its name means “hill of water” in Nahuatl, or “land of two waters.” It is named so for the numerous sources of water that originate here. The water is used by people in the urban and rural areas of Matagalpa.

breakfast at Hotel San José

sign at Reserva Natural Cerro Apante

our Toyota Rush

It features a tropical cloud forest with 75 species of plants, including a mix of trees such as sweet gum and walnut which come from North America and whose southern limit of distribution is in Nicaragua. Several species of oak and pine also thrive here. In addition, eight registered orchid species are known. Giant tree ferns known as monkey’s tail are also abundant.

The route was very steep, rocky and root-tangled. We walked through tropical exuberance, around bamboo patches, and alongside streams. Alex and Adam sat in the branches of a fallen tree for a pose.

We found a waterfall where the guys swam. Adam jumped into a pool from a tall rock.

Reserva Natural Cerro Apante

Mike at Reserva Natural Cerro Apante

Adam at Reserva Natural Cerro Apante

Alex and Adam

me wtih Alex

Adam

Mike

Reserva Natural Cerro Apante

Then we continued climbing to the mirador overlooking the city of Matagalpa, La Cruz de Cerro Largo Viewpoint. We came up a long steep set of steps from behind a blue and white metallic cross. In front of the cross is the rather derelict mirador, where we could see the city of Matagalpa scattered across the valley. Cerro Apante is 1,442 meters above sea level. At its summit is the 33-meter-high La Cruz de la Paz (in memory of the years of Jesus Christ’s earthly life), the highest Catholic monument in Nicaragua. The statue is a carving of the Virgin Mary with a winged Christ child at her feet. It is part of the Montaña de la Paz project, meant to be a pilgrimage site where the Christian faithful can come to reflect, pray and make spiritual retreats.

The viewpoint and the huge statue were quite unusual, but we were happy to be rewarded with cacao bars Adam gave us as Christmas gifts, expansive views, and conversation in Spanish with some very friendly Nicaraguans.

another cross on the way to La Cruz de la Paz

La Cruz de la Paz

view of Matagalpa

Adam & Alex at La Cruz de la Paz

view of Matagalpa 2023

La Cruz de la Paz 2023

views of area surrounding Matagalpa

Mike and me at the viewpoint

Adam and Alex at the viewpoint

The route back took us on a loop so we could experience different views and flora. Coming down on steep gravelly surfaces is always challenging to me, but I took my time and tried to be patient, not an easy thing for me! We found a horse grazing freely. Our hike was exhausting but in the end, the views were worth all the effort.

a grazing horse

pretty butterfly

coming back down Reserva Natural Cerro Apante

interesting vegetation

crazy looking cacti

more interesting vegetation

Spanish moss on trees

more Spanish moss

more interesting plant life

return to the beginning

Back in Matagalpa, we found a cute veterinarian office with a mural of cows, horses, pigs and oxen on the front. We dropped into a little restaurant in town, but the food was rather disappointing. I was okay with my cheese quesadilla, but the guys weren’t happy at all with the lack of meat in their dishes.

veterinarian office in Matagalpa

our disappointing lunch

We enjoyed a beer in the hotel courtyard, showered and relaxed for a while. Alex seemed to be feeling a bit under the weather and he took a nap while we relaxed before dinner.

Adam had walked around earlier, while we were resting, and scoped out a Mexican restaurant, Rincón Azteca, with a taco special. As we walked to go out to dinner, we stumbled across a blue car with four little white fuzzy heads looking out at us. The owner of the pups came out and tried to hand one over to me. Then we stopped into a festively decorated church where we found yet another richly arranged nativity scene.

We enjoyed various taco dishes and a chalupa poblano. Adam, who loves his sweets, downed two horchatas and we sipped on something like non-alcoholic margaritas. The colorful drinks were served in jars with handles, overlooked by festive snowmen.

The decor in the restaurant was cute and colorful with striped blankets and patterned pillows on orange couches and sombreros to try on for photos.

cute little pups

cute pups and their owner

nice church in Matagalpa

church in Matagalpa

me at Rincón Azteca

me with Mike at Rincón Azteca

Rincón Azteca

tacos at Rincón Azteca

tacos

chalupa poblano at Rincón Azteca

Steps: 12,955; Miles: 5.49.

Selva Negra and a wander around Matagalpa

Thursday, December 29: Today we visited Selva Negra Mountain Resort and Coffee Estate, a historical coffee farm set up by German immigrants in 1891.

In the 1850s, when gold was discovered in California, many American and European passengers made their way to California crossing the Isthmus of Central America through Nicaragua. On one of these trips, a German couple, Ludwig Elster and Katharina Braun, from the region of Germany’s Black Forest (Selva Negra in Spanish), chose to stay in Nicaragua rather than continue to San Francisco. They were discouraged from their original intention of going to California for the gold rush because they were told it wasn’t a good environment for families and children. Instead of looking for gold, they planted the first coffee beans in this region. The coffee was of good quality, so many other Europeans and Americans chose to do the same. It was known then as “La Hammonia” Farm, strictly a coffee farm.

One hundred years later, Eddy Kühl and Mausi Hayn, descendants of the first settlers, decided to build a tourist resort, completed between 1975-1976. They built 23 mountain bungalows, an additional building with 14 rooms, a youth hostel, bar and restaurant.

In addition to coffee production and the hotel, Selva Negra Ecolodge, alternative sources of production have been developed over the last 30 years, whether for in-house consumption or income generation. These include organic meat and milk products such as cheeses: Gouda, Manchego, Camembert, & Feta; vegetables and fruit crops; pork and sausages; laying hens and meat chickens, etc.

Activities are all eco-touristic: mountain hiking, horseback riding, bird watching, and coffee plantation tours.

We did the coffee plantation tour, where we were walked through the stages of the process. We were introduced to the machinery that sorts and washes the coffee beans. We tasted some of the defective coffee. Selva Negra sells coffee all over the world, mostly to the U.S. but also to Australia, Mexico and Czech Republic. One of their biggest customers is Whole Foods in the U.S.

We watched the raking and drying of the coffee beans. Depending on the type and quality of the beans, drying can take days to months.

There is much integration on the farm: leftover food from the restaurant feeds the pigs, the pigs’ waste generates methane gas used to fuel the kitchen that cooks the sausages made from the pigs. They also use multiple methane gas processes from coffee wastewater, animal manure and human waste.

driving to Selva Negra

Selva Negra

machinery at Selva Negra

coffee beans at Selva Negra

coffee beans

machinery at Selva Negra

coffee beans

tasting defective coffee beans

machinery at Selva Negra

Sign for Selva Negra

more signs at Selva Negra

signs at Selva Negra

the owner’s house in the middle of the operation

German owner’s house

more signs

a little pond on the coffee plantation

coffee beans drying

Adam, Mike, me and Alex at Selva Negra

the coffee map

the youth hostel at Selva Negra

Selva Negra

At Selva Negra, we took a 4WD down into the coffee plantation. We drove past the workers’ quarters. Deeper into the plantation, we saw giant lemons, which they let fall to the ground to make the soil more acidic. Cacao grows on the plantation as well. The coffee hacienda grows 100% organic shade coffee.

On the bumpy ride, there was only room inside the truck for Mike and me and two Nicaraguan women, one of whom wanted to set her daughter up with Adam. Adam and Alex had to sit in the truck bed, not comfortable because of a sudden smattering of rain and the bumpy ride.

workers’ quarters at Selva Negra

lemons on the plantation

cacao on the plantation

the shade-grown coffee

Coffee plants

coffee beans

The two Nicaraguan ladies on our tour

We witnessed the lunchtime break for the workers on the coffee plantation. They work from 7-4 each day with a 10-minute lunch. The company brings the food down in a kind of chow-wagon (truck), and workers stand in line to get their food and gobble it down. They carry their bags of coffee beans down to lunch because they want to keep access to the beans they’ve picked; they’re paid by the box, about $2/box. Most workers pick 5-10 boxes/day. It’s very labor intensive and they’re not about to leave their bags behind during lunch.

workers head to lunchtime at Selva Negra

the chow wagon at Selva Negra

After our tour, we drank the free coffee we got as part of the tour and ate some cheese we bought at a table in the dining area, which overlooks a small lake.

When we got back to the hotel, Alex wasn’t feeling good, so he took a nap while Mike, Adam and I wandered around Matagalpa. Mike and Adam did a little dance to some music bursting from a storefront.

Adam and Hotel San José

Matagalpa mural

Matagalpa wanderings

We strolled over to the Coffee Museum. It tells the story of how in 1852, Luis Elster (1814-1916) and his wife Katharina Braun (1830-1887) arrived with their two-year-old boy, Wilhelm. While awaiting a ship to California in San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua, they found two North Americans returning to New York. They were told conditions were bad for children in California. They were told to go north, close to Matagalpa, where there were gold mines. They went north in a wagon pulled by oxen to Matagalpa and then to San Ramon, where they bought land from indigenous people and founded their farm Ludwigwalk, or “La Lima.” Luis dug for gold, but didn’t find big quantities. Instead they planted coffee seeds and were surprised when the bushes yielded cherries bigger and more aromatic than those on the Pacific. (I believe this is the same couple referred to above at Selva Negra, but the names and dates don’t match exactly).

The Elsters dried the beans in the sun and after dried, they exported them to Germany to be dehusked. There were many problems, mainly that transporting them was too bulky and the taste was affected. They thought of a way to remove the dried shells using wood cylinders.

We saw a map of the coffee trajectory. European and North American immigrants received land from the government with the condition that they had to plant coffee (in Matagalpa and Jinotega). We learned of different types of coffee and different roasts.

the Coffee Museum in Matagalpa

We wandered past street markets where Adam introduced us to Nicaraguan street food: buñelos (yucca cheese sugarballs); respado (a snow cone with sweetened condensed milk and fruit syrups; atol (milk & grain sweetened); and unripe mangoes with salt, lime and chili.

It was quite busy in the streets with all kinds of commerce and blaring music and loudspeakers announcing various bargains.

Nicaraguan street food

We found a statue in Morazan Park of Carlos Fonseca and Comandante Tomas Borge Martinez, both drivers of the revolution.

Comandante Tomas Borge Martinez andCarlos Fonseca

me and Mike with the statue

another famous person

I wandered into the Matagalpa Cathedral, also known as Catedral de San Pedro, which still had a large nativity scene. It is the third largest cathedral in Nicaragua, built in 1874 as a parish church under the Jesuits. It reflects the opulence of Matagalpa in that age. It is built in a Baroque style with heavy bell towers set at both sides of an airy spacious interior. Dedicated to St. Peter the Apostle, it is the seat of the Roman Catholic Diocese in Matagalpa. It was finally completed and consecrated in 1897.

Matagalpa Cathedral

nativity scene at Matagalpa Cathedral

Matagalpa Cathedral

We also stopped at the Carlos Fonseca Museum, once the revolutionary leader’s childhood home. Carlos Fonseca Amador (23 June 1936 – 8 November 1976), was a Nicaraguan teacher, librarian and revolutionary who founded the Sandinista National Liberation Front (FSLN – Frente Sandinista de Liberación Nacional). He was killed in the mountains of the Zelaya Department, Nicaragaua, three years before the FSLN took power.

The small and simple house, made of taquezal (mud and wood), holds two exhibition rooms, one small office and a salon-turned-library. Photo exhibits of Fonseca, showing images of different stages of his life, as well as important people in his life, line the walls. On display are also information about his childhood and family, his revolutionary activism in different countries, guerilla partners and more. There were many faded old news clippings, including one about his death in the war against the Guardia Nacional (Somoza’s army), as well as personal artifacts.

Carlos Fonseca Museum

returning to our hotel

We returned to the hotel to find Alex well-rested, although he still didn’t feel good. We all went out to dinner for local Nica food at El Taquero, which made the guys happy but not me because too much meat was involved in every dish. Even the Chalupina I ordered because I thought it didn’t have meat, was full of fatty meat. 😦

El Taquero

Alex, Adam and me at El Taquero

dinner at El Taquero

Steps: 10,490; Miles: 4.45.

Below is a video of our time in Matagalpa.

The following day, Friday, we would be on our way to León, where we would stay to welcome in the New Year.

twenty twenty-two: a year of north-south travel, a tragic war in ukraine, & final passings

wanderessence1025 December 27, 2022

Twenty twenty-two was: A year of traveling south, further south and then north, from the bottom of the eastern seaboard to the top, a vertical kind of year: a south Florida road trip to Miami, the Everglades and the Keys; a three-week trip to Ecuador, our first ever to South America; and a trip to the Canadian Maritimes. A year of obstacles to travel: a national strike by indigenous people in Ecuador and Hurricane Fiona in the Maritimes. A year of walking outdoors, bicycling, and yoga practice. Another year of our eldest son living at home and continuing to work on his college degree. A year of Alex meeting a charming young woman, Jandira, originally from Angola, though she’s been in the U.S. a long time. A year of my daughter completing a course in Paralegal studies and beginning a new job search. A year where our daughter lost both of her pets, her dog Bagel and her cat Chicken Little. A year of our youngest son continuing to live in Nicaragua and the family going to visit him at the end of December. A year of finally getting our wills and trusts done. A year of meeting old friends & family: my brother who moved recently to Georgia and who I hadn’t seen in ages; Lisa, who I met in Egypt in 2007, and Ed, who I worked with at the State Department in 2007. A year of watching my father continue to decline with Alzheimer’s. A year when my father sadly passed away just before Christmas but he specified he didn’t want a funeral. A year of Alex graduating from Northern Virginia Community College and getting accepted into George Mason University to continue with his Computer Science degree. A year of stunning revelations from the January 6 Committee about the attempted overthrow of our government by a sitting president; the horrifying Russian invasion of Ukraine; a tragic school shooting in an Uvalde, Texas elementary school, where 19 children and 2 teachers were murdered in cold blood; and a crowd crush in Seoul, South Korea during Halloween celebrations, in which hundreds of young people were killed or injured. A year of the right-wing illegitimate Supreme Court striking down Roe v. Wade, suddenly taking away the right for millions of women to decide the fate of their own bodies. A year of Spanish studies on Duolingo, with the addition of Arabic, French and Italian. A year of favorite movies: The Worst Person in the World, Drive My Car, Downton Abbey: A New Era, The Forgiven, and Norwegian Wood. A year of reading 58/55 books for the year (My Year in Books 2022). A year in which the Merriam-Webster word of the year (much belated in my opinion) was “gaslighting,” a noun that means “1) psychological manipulation of a person usually over an extended period of time that causes the victim to question the validity of their own thoughts, perception of reality, or memories and typically leads to confusion, loss of confidence and self-esteem, uncertainty of one’s emotional or mental stability, and a dependency on the perpetrator; 2) the act or practice of grossly misleading someone especially for one’s own advantage.” A year in which the Oxford word of the year was “goblin mode,” a slang term which describes “a type of behaviour which is unapologetically self-indulgent, lazy, slovenly, or greedy, typically in a way that rejects social norms or expectations.” A year when the TIME Person of the Year was Volodymyr Zelensky of Ukraine. A year of the U.S. hitting and surpassing 1,090,204 COVID deaths and the world hitting 6.678 million deaths.

In January, I: hunkered down in my house trying desperately to stay warm in snow & sub-freezing temperatures and trying to avoid the huge surge in omicron; watched the news about thousands stranded overnight on 48 miles of I-95 due to a snowstorm and felt relieved I hadn’t been there; watched as Biden commemorated the 1/6 insurrection and blamed “the former president” for fomenting violence and the Big Lie; took down our Christmas tree and decorations; made my first video/slideshow on Chicago, followed by one on Utah; ate chili rellenos, chili dogs, BBQ shrimp flatbread, and Thai basil chili sauce with shrimp; chatted with Jayne on Zoom; celebrated my son’s new job at an orthopedic clinic; chanted at a contemplative taizé service; and started studying Spanish (again). Read 7 books out of my goal of 55, with my favorite being Chances Are … by Richard Russo; streamed some good movies, including The Lost Daughter, Promising Young Woman, and A Bottle in the Gaza Sea. Finished The Miniaturist and started watching Station Eleven, Mare of Easttown, and The Girl from Oslo.

My January bullet journal page

the view out my window 1/3/22

The CCT on 1/7/22

In February, I: touched base with Lisa, my old friend from Egypt, about visiting her in Prince Edward Island and Atlantic Canada in September; had a pedicure, haircut, hair straightening, my annual physical and eye doctor visits; walked 3 miles daily and did yoga weekly; enjoyed my monthly massage; celebrated Alex’s first week on the job with an Ethiopian dinner; watched movies Parallel Mothers, Death on the Nile, The Worst Person in the World, and Drive My Car; finished Mare of Easttown and season 2 of Emily in Paris; got Spanish songs from Adam on WhatsApp; posted videos on Arizona and southern Minnesota; finally met with a lawyer about updating our wills; chatted with Jayne; celebrated Valentine’s Day at Clarity; felt anger, disgust, and shock over Putin’s invasion of Ukraine and the terrifying possibility of World War III; celebrated Mike’s 68^th birthday at Lebanese Taverna; enjoyed another birthday celebration for both Mike and Alex at home with Barbara, topping it off with humor from Saturday Night Live. Read 6 books out of my goal of 55 for the year (bringing my total up to 13/55), my favorites being The Body in Question, The Startup Wife, and Radical Acceptance: Embracing Your Life with the Heart of a Buddha; mourned the loss of 948,215 people in the U.S., and 5.9 million in the world, from two years of COVID.

February bullet journal

Mike at Clarity for Valentine’s Day

Valentine’s Day at Clarity

Dinner at Clarity

Russia Invades Ukraine

me with Mike at Lebanese Taverna for his birthday

The atrocities get underway

In March, I: listened to President Biden’s State of the Union, visited the National Museum of African American History & Culture and finally saw the “Great Wave of Kanagawa” mural in Georgetown. Celebrated Alex’s 31^stbirthday at Artie’s, sang happy birthday to him over carrot cake, and enjoyed a lavender pedicure. Watched One Night in Miami in preparation for our South Florida trip. Read 4 books out of my goal of 55 for the year (bringing my total to 17/55), my favorite being Intimacies by Katie Kitamura. Made two video/slideshows on northern Minnesota and Wisconsin. Took a road trip to South Florida, where I first stopped at Falls Park on the Reedy in Greenville, South Carolina. Visited my brother Robbie and his partner at their new house in Columbus, Georgia, where we commiserated over politics, ate sushi and chile rellenos, and drank sake and margaritas. Bought beach cover-ups at Ron Jon Surf Shop in Cocoa Beach, Florida. Met Mike at the Miami Airport and visited the Art Deco Historic District on South Beach, saw an adorable pink lifeguard tower, and spent a feisty evening on Calle Ocho in Little Havana among roosters and coffee stores. Watched Mike puff on a cigar at Guantanamera. Visited Wynwood Walls, an outdoor museum of funky international street art. Wandered among orchids, coral trees, palms, cyads, and a rainforest at Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden. Spent a barefoot morning lollygagging on South Beach and admiring the colorful art deco lifeguard stands then spent the afternoon basking in the sun at Bill Baggs Cape Florida State Park. Returned to Little Havana for another night of Cuban food and a history lesson on the failed Bay of Pigs Invasion (April 17, 1961) and paid tribute at the Eternal Torch in Honor of the 2506^th Brigade, many of whom lost their lives or were incarcerated in horrible conditions in Cuban prisons. Hiked the Anhinga Trail and the Gumbo Limbo Trail at Everglades National Park, and then took the Flamingo Adventures Boat ride where we saw American crocodiles and manatees. Walked amidst tropical hardwood hammocks, mahogany trees, sabal palms, cypress and mangroves. Ate a delicious and lively dinner at Yardie Spice, a Jamaican restaurant in Florida City, with friendly J.B. hosting. Took a 15-mile bike ride at Shark Valley Visitor Center and then sped over the river of grass in an air boat at Gator Park. Went kayaking in a tandem with Mike in Big Cypress National Preserve where we communed with alligators and birds of all feathers; ended up bickering as we got tangled up in mangrove roots. Visited two state parks in the Florida Keys and shopped, strolled, nibbled and imbibed in Key West all the way to the Southernmost Point in the Continental U.S., which is 90 miles from Cuba and 150 miles from Miami. Enjoyed a Hoochie Mama Mojito and key lime pie at Paradise Restaurant in Key West as a rooster strutted his stuff near our table. Stopped in Little Havana one more time on our way back through Miami so Mike could stock up on cigars for his yearly buddies’ gathering in July. Took a water taxi through Fort Lauderdale’s Inland Waterway and admired the mansions of the rich and famous. Wandered up and down Las Olas Boulevard, enjoyed dinner at Cuba Libre and happened to hit the Las Olas Oceanside Park Market on Saturday morning. Headed north to St. Augustine, where we explored the Historic Old Town, the Castillo San Marcos National Monument, the St. Augustine Light Station and Fort Mantazas National Monument. Enjoyed a delicious lunch on the breezy rooftop of Salt Life Food Shack and saw the old Ponce de Leon Hotel that now houses Flagler College. Topped off our time in Florida at the Tini Martini Bar. On the way home, stopped to visit Mike’s college friends, Bob and Barbara Trott, and had lunch with Sarah in Richmond.

March bullet journal

Lake Anne in Reston

National Museum of African American History & Culture

Rosa Parks

National Museum of African American History & Culture

Dinner at Arties to celebrate Alex’s 31st birthday

The gravel trail in my neighborhood

Carrot cake for the birthday boy

Falls Park on the Reedy in Greenville, SC

Greenville, SC

Falls Park on the Reedy in Greenville, SC

my brother Rob & me in Columbus, GA

Columbus Riverwalk

Rob, me and Rob in Columbus, GA

Columbus, GA

Ron Jon Surf Shop in Cocoa Beach, FL

Art Deco District in South Beach, Miami

me in Little Havana, Miami

Mike smokes a cigar at Guantanamera in Little Havana

Rooster in Little Havana

Lifeguard tower in South Beach

Cape Florida Light House on Key Biscayne

Bikeride through Snake Valley, Everglades National Park

Alligator in the Everglades

Mike with his alligator friends at Gator Park

Alligator in the Everglades

Blue heron

Everglades National Park

Strangler fig in the Everglades

John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park

Key West

Southernmost poin in the U.S., Key West, FL

bar in Key West

Smallest Bar in Key West

Inland waterways of Fort Lauderdale, FL

me in Fort Lauderdale

Fort Lauderdale

me in Cuba Libre, Las Olas Blvd, Fort Lauderdale

Mike in Cuba Libre, Las Olas Blvd, Fort Lauderdale

Castillo de San Marcos National Monument, St. Augustine, FL

St. Augustine, FL

Flagler College at the Old Ponce de Leon Hotel, St. Augustine

St. Augustine Light Station grounds

Salt Life Food Shack in St. Augustine

Tini Martini Bar, St.Augustine

Lake Newport, Reston, VA

Cute yard setup in Reston

In April, I: made video/slideshows on Michigan and Croatia; walked through the bluebells at Riverbend; listened to Brother and JOSEPH at the Barns of Wolf Trip. Visited my dad in Yorktown and, sadly, found him totally bedridden and declining. Encouraged Sarah to quit her job and go back to school, found out her dog Bagel had cancer and had to be put down, enjoyed a celebratory 38th birthday dinner with her at Pinky’s, and walked (Sarah ran) the Monument Avenue 10k in Richmond, after which we had a falling out and later made up. Got my second COVID booster, got a haircut and a massage, and had a Dexascan and mammogram, with normal results. Enjoyed a long chat with Jayne and a fun meeting with Leah at Pearl Dive Oyster Palace. Walked daily and did yoga. Ate sushi, bibimbap, and flatbreads, and drank plum sake. Celebrated Easter with Barbara, Mike and Alex at home. Felt happy that Alex met a girl, Jandira, and started seeing her. Read 5 books out of my goal of 55 for the year (bringing my total to 22/55), with my favorites being Stiltsville, Klara and the Sun, and The Country Under My Skin: A Memoir of Love and War by Gioconda Belli; watched movies in the theater, including Mothering Sunday, The Rose Maker, and Everything Everywhere All at Once. Finished Nashville and started watching Better Things and Servant of the People with Volodymyr Zelenskyy. Mourned the loss of 991,231 people in the U.S., and 6.2 million in the world, from two+ years of COVID.

April bullet journal

bibimbap at Maru Korean

lunch with Leah at Pearl Dive Oyster Palace

Mike at YamaChen’s Sushi

me at YamaChen’s Sushi

a walk through the CCT on Easter Sunday

rosebud

bluebells at Riverbend

Riverbend Park

wild blue phlox at Riverbend

azaleas

cherry blossoms

Monument Avenue 10K in Richmond

Monument Avenue 10K

Mile 6

cheering squads

mural in Richmond

a deer on the Glade Trail

dogwoods

a yummy salad at Bear Branch Tavern

In May, I: made video/slideshows on Croatia, Boston and Miami; studied Spanish through The Great Courses and Duolingo; planned and booked our trip to Ecuador; worked steadily on my memoir; enjoyed margaritas and nachos on Cinco de Mayo; celebrated Mother’s Day with Alex and Mike at Agora Tyson’s; ate at Kalypso, Ariake, and the H-Mart Food Court. Was infuriated by a leaked draft opinion of the Supreme Court’s intent to overturn Roe v. Wade and a woman’s right to abortion, shoving us back into the Dark Ages. Met my friend Ed at Fontaine Bistro in Old Town Alexandria for the first time in over 2 years. Visited my bedridden dad in Yorktown, and felt encouraged to find him still eating heartily. Contributed to Sarah’s new Paralegal course at VCU, which she started on May 16. Walked daily and did yoga and bicycled weekly. Went on a scavenger hunt of sorts with blogging buddy Toby Oberg at the National Gallery of Art and then joined our husbands for dinner at Oyamel Cocina Mexicana. Was horrified by another mass shooting at a Uvalde, Texas elementary school, where 19 children and 2 teachers were murdered in cold blood. Continued to be furious with elected officials who fail to take action on gun control, including background checks and a ban on assault rifles. Read 8 books out of my goal of 55 for the year (bringing my total to 30/55), with my favorites being Cañar: A Year in the Highlands of Ecuador, The Old Man Who Read Love Stories, and The Panama Hat Trail; watched movies in the theater, including Downton Abbey: A New Era. Finished Station Eleven and started watching Hacks. Mourned the loss of 1,004,730 people in the U.S., and 6.3 million in the world, from two+ years of COVID.

May bullet journal

chicks along the lake

Mike and Alex smoking Cuban cigars on Cinco de Mayo

drink at Agora Tyson on Mother’s Day

Agora Tyson’s

me at Kalypso at Lake Anne

Lake Anne in Reston

a yummy frittata

crepe at Fontaine Bistro

peonies

National Gallery of Art

Paul Cézanne

Paul Gauguin

The Bathers by Paul Gauguin

Vincent Van Gogh

The Favorite of the Emir by Jean Joseph Benjamin Constant

Young Spanish Woman with Guitar by Auguste Renoir

Woman of the “Orient” by Henri Lehmann

Banks of the Seine, Vétheuil by Claude Monet

Mike and me in the atrium at the National Gallery of Art

The Notch of the White Mountains by Thomas Cole

gallery at National Gallery of Art

Nonchaloir (Repose) by John Singer Sargent

The Adoration of the Magi by Sandro Botticelli

National Gallery of Art

Louis Maurice Boutet de Monvel’s Joan of Arc Series

Green River Cliffs, Wyoming by Thomas Moran

John & Toby Oberg, me and Mike at Oyamel

another slaughter at a U.S. school

Police response in question

In June, I: studied Spanish through The Great Courses and Duolingo. Did yoga, walked and rode my bike to get in shape for riding down Chimborozo Volcano in Ecuador. Visited my bedridden dad in Yorktown, and felt encouraged to find him still eating heartily. Enjoyed wine and snacks outdoors at Jardín in Richmond with my daughter Sarah. Signed wills and trusts at our lawyer’s office. Packed for our trip to Ecuador, but had to cancel the night before our departure due to nationwide strikes, protests and road closures. Started making backup plans to go to Colombia instead of Ecuador. Had a mediocre meal at Chuy’s and enjoyed Thai food in the lovely living room setting at Sisters Thai. Celebrated Father’s Day by having lunch at Union Market and later enjoyed a cookout with salmon and summer corn. Walked with Poonam at Eakin Park and shared a vegetarian lunch made by her Nepalese cook; another day we walked around Lakes Anne and Newport. Was furious that our right-wing illegitimate Supreme Court struck down Roe v. Wade, suddenly taking away the right for millions of women to decide the fate of their own bodies. Ate Ethiopian at Enatye and strolled around Reston Town Center after dinner. Watched the January 6 Committee hearings and learned more about Trump’s despicable sedition and attempted overthrow of the government. Wondered again if there will ever be any justice for these criminal traitors. Read 4 books out of my goal of 55 for the year (bringing my total to 34/55), with my favorites being The Expatriates and Our House in the Clouds: Building a Second Life in the Andes of Ecuador. Felt excited that the Danish political series Borgen has returned to Netflix after a long hiatus, and we dove back in. Watched one movie in the theater, the Iranian Hit the Road, and others on TV, including No Escape about Americans getting caught up in protests in an unnamed Asian country. Finished This Is Us and the French series Call My Agent! Continued our perpetual mourning for the loss of 1,015,933 people in the U.S., and 6.3 million in the world, from two+ years of COVID.

June bullet journal

the Glade Trail

Mike at Sisters Thai

Me at Sisters Thai

Sisters Thai

Union Market

Ferns along the gravel trail

Roe v. Wade struck down

Ethiopian food at Enatye

Aide: Trump fought to lead armed mob

hydrangeas around Lake Anne

In July, I: continued my Spanish studies through The Great Courses and Duolingo. Rebooked our Ecuador trip when the strikes ended at the end of June. Did yoga, walked and rode my bike to get in shape for riding down Chimborozo Volcano in Ecuador. Was shocked at the assassination of Shinzo Abe, the longest serving prime minister of Japan. Visited my bedridden dad in Yorktown, encouraged by his hearty eating, and then had lunch with Sarah in Richmond at C&M Gallery Restaurant. Enjoyed dinner at a Russian-Uzbek restaurant, RusUz in Alexandria and lunch at Tiki Thai in Reston. Watched more of the January 6 Committee hearings and learned about Trump’s utter inaction during the hours of the insurrection. Continue to be doubtful there will ever be any justice for these traitorous criminals. Took Mike to the airport for his annual get together with his high school friends in Ohio. Enjoyed a Korean meal with Alex at Maru. Felt wary when the WHO declared monkeypox a global emergency. Welcomed Mike back home after his weekend away, just in time to go to Ecuador. Flew by way of Miami to Quito, took the “Old Town Walking Tour” from Lonely Planet Ecuador, and came face-to-face with the tourist police, who were out in force protecting tourists from the criminal elements. Enjoyed pizza at Bandidos del Páramo. Took the TelefériQo up Volcán Pichincha on a foggy day and when we didn’t see anything, we came back down and explored the quirky neighborhood, La Floresta. Visited Casa Museo Guayasamin, where we explored the artist’s work, his studio and his stunning home. Got massages and soaked in hot baths for a day at Termes de Papallacta. Took the TelefériQo up to Ruca Pichincha (again) on our last sunny Friday in Quito, and this time we hiked up and enjoyed amazing views of all the volcanoes surrounding the city. Flew from Quito to Cuenca, settled into our Airbnb apartment and took a walking tour of the city with the excellent guide, Gustavo Jiménez Morales. Took a tour of market towns east of Cuenca with Gustavo on Sunday, stopping for herbal tea in San Bartolomé, buying Panama hats in Sigsig, wandering through the well-tended Chordeleg, and checking out an Ikat factory outside of Gualaceo. Read 4 books out of my goal of 55 for the year (bringing my total to 38/55), with my favorites being Convenience Store Woman and The Farm on the River of Emeralds. Watched movies in the theater, including Where the Crawdads Sing, The Forgiven and Both Sides of the Blade. Finished the T.V. series Parenthood and the Australian series Offspring (I’ll miss the adorable Nina).

July bullet journal

me at RusUz

Tiki Thai

Old Town Quito

view from La Ronda of El Panecillo & La Virgen de Quito

Basilica del Voto Nacional

view of Quito from Basilica del Voto Nacional

me at Casa Warmi in Floresta

Ochoymedia in Floresta

Casa Museo Guayasamín

Termas de Papallacta

view of Quito from Ruca Pichincha

Mike and me with Cotopaxi behind us

Cuenca, Ecuador

Prohibido Museo de Arte Extremo

relief carving in Cuenca

the flower market in Cuenca

door to Catedral de la Immaculada Concepción

Catedral de la Immaculada Concepción in Cuenca

Countryside on the way to the three markets

me with Gustavo above San Bartolomé

guinea pigs in San Bartolomé

store in San Bartolomé

me in San Bartolomé

herb tea prepared by Samira in San Bartolomé

Gustavo and a guitar-maker

Indigenous woman in Sigsig

Panama hat cooperative in Sigsig

Me and Mike with our new Panama hats

Panama hat cooperative in Sigsig

hornado at the Sigsig market

painted trees in Gualaceo

guitar in Gualaceo

Ikat factory outside Gualaceo

In August, I: Continued explorations of Ecuador with Mike. Imbibed in churros & chocolate at Dos Chorreras Chocolateria, where we found a shiny red car piled with chocolates and a disco ball overhead. Climbed the tower of the New Cathedral of Cuenca for views over its iconic Czech blue-tiled domes, Parque Calderón, and the city. Enjoyed an off-beat dinner at Consuelo, topped off by the strange dessert concoction of merengue and ice cream cones called Espumilla. Visited the Museo del Sombrero de Paja Toquilla to learn about the Panama hat. Experienced a beating at the hands of limpias, powerful women who clean out bad energy from the soul, at Mercado 10 de Agosto. Visited the Homero Ortega Hat Museum and bought a vintage Panama hat after picking up our rental car, a Toyota Yaris, from the airport. Ventured to Parque Nacional Cajas, where we hiked around Laguna Toreadorra amidst spongy mosses, succulents, Polylepis trees, and cacti in the high grassland known as páramo. Learned about the ancient Incan and Cañari cultures, and the various ethnic groups of Ecuador at the Pumapungo Museum in Cuenca. Ate cuy (guinea pig) at Guajibamba and then enjoyed dessert on the rooftop terrace of Negroni while admiring the blue domes of the New Cathedral. Bought yet another Panama hat! Drove up the Pan American highway to Ingapirca where we climbed the Temple of the Sun and learned about the Incas and Cañaris. Took a 45-minute loop hike to see Cara del Inca (a cliff with a human face) and drank Chicha de Jora, a corn beer. Enjoyed our stay at our first hacienda, Posada Ingapirca, where we shivered all night and in the cold morning shower. Enjoyed a city celebration and parade in Riobamba and ate tapas at Amona, while children stood outside the locked door gesturing for handouts (hands to mouth). Drove to Baños, a total waste of time. Felt disappointed that our biking guide, who we’d booked to take us biking down Volcán Chimborazo, got Covid and had to cancel. Drove up to Chimborazo anyway on a sunny day and had magnificent views of the symbiotic clouds caressing the volcano, and of the elegant vicuña (wild relatives of the llama). Drove from our adorable Hostal Huasicama in Latacunga to Tigua, where we bought bright paintings of Andean life, to Laguna Quilotoa, a volcanic crater lake. Hiked down the steep gravelly trail to the bottom, slipping and sliding the whole way, and then had to wait a long time for a donkey and horse to take us back up (I was having trouble breathing due to elevation). Hiked around Laguna Limpiopungo at Parque Nacional Cotopaxi in the cold and rain. Enjoyed the festive atmosphere at Hacienda Los Mortinos with its groups of Dutch tourists; finally warmed up when staff lit the woodstove in our room. Rode my horse, Dorado, with guide Edizon and Mike into Cotopaxi park, where all three of us were pelted with freezing rain and only had views of the volcano once the clouds lifted. Nearly fell off my horse when he decided to jump a stream rather than wade through it. Explored the lovely Hacienda Cusín, once a working ranch but now a hotel with exquisite grounds and interiors, near Otavalo. Stayed at the Las Palmeras Inn in Otavalo, another hacienda, and spent much of Saturday shopping at the Otavalo market, the largest market in Ecuador and the largest market of its kind in South America. Flew to Miami, where we spent the night, and then homeward on an early morning flight. Celebrated Alex’s completion of his semester with a dinner at Artie’s. Bid adieu to Alex as he moved into a house with some old friends in Alexandria (not far from where we live). Rode my bike, did yoga, walked, went to the gym, and started booking our trip to the Canadian Maritimes. Saw Emily the Criminal and Anne of Green Gables (in preparation to visit Prince Edward Island). Read 4 books out of my goal of 55 for the year (bringing my total to 42/55), my favorite being Rules for Visiting. Continued our perpetual mourning for the loss of 1,043,838 people in the U.S., and 6.49 million in the world, from two+ years of COVID.

August bullet journal

Cuenca

Dos Chorreras Chocolateria in Cuenca

Blue domes of Cuenca’s New Cathedral

me at Consuelo

Mercado 10 de Agosto

Espumilla

sporting our hats at the Museo del Sombrero de Paja Toquilla

Mercado 10 de Agosto

a limpia cleanses Mike’s soul

Mercado 10 de Agosto

Homero Ortega Hats

Mirador del Turi iin Cuenca

Mike at Park Cajas

me at Park Cajas

Parque Nacional Cajas

murals in Cuenca

Museo Pumapungo

The New Cathedral

flower market in Cuenca

another Panama hat for me

Cuenca’s barranco

Ingapirca

Sun Temple at Ingapirca

Ingapirca

Cara del Inca at Ingapirca

Mike at Posada Ingapirca

trout at Posada Ingapirca

Posada Ingapirca

Riobamba

me in Riobamba

a city parade in Riobamba

Riobamba

view of Chimborazo from Riobamba

me in Riobamba

sheep on the way to Chimborazo

vicuña at Chimborazo

plants at Chimborazo

the dry side of Chimborazo

Chimborazo

mural in Hostal Huasicama

landscape on the way to Quilatoa

Cañon del Toachi

Laguna Quilotoa

path down to Laguna Quilotoa

Laguna Quilotoa

driving back to Latacunga

view of Cotopaxi

Laguna Limpiopungo at Parque Nacional Cotopaxi

Parque Nacional Cotopaxi

Tambopaxi

Hacienda Los Mortiños

view from our room at Hacienda Los Mortiños

Hacienda Los Mortiños

plants at Hacienda Los Mortiños

Mike and me on horseback in front of Cotopaxi

me on horseback in front of Cotopaxi

Mike and Cotopaxi

Volcán Cotopaxi

view out of our room

Volcán Cotopaxi

Hacienda Cusín

Tigua-style painting at Hacienda Cusín

library in Hacienda Cusín

Hacienda Cusín

murals at Hacienda Cusín

Hacienda Cusín

Las Palmeras Inn

llama in residence at Las Palmeras Inn

Las Palmeras Inn

our cottage at Las Palmeras Inn

Volcán Imbabura

house at Las Palmeras Inn

Las Palmeras Inn

pizza in Otavalo

Otavalo Market

Mike’s strong shot at Maytushka in Otavalo

me at Las Palmeras

view at Lake Audubon in Reston

Lake Newport

trail in Reston

In September, I: Walked, did yoga, rode my bike, and went to the gym in the never-ending battle to keep the pounds at bay. Got my bivalent COVID booster (#5 shot), which is supposed to protect against omicron and other variants. Celebrated my sister-in-law’s birthday at L’Auberge Chez Francoís, reviving a long-neglected family tradition. Walked with Poonam on the Glade Trail and when she fell and couldn’t get up, felt helpless to pull her up by myself. Mourned the death of Queen Elizabeth at 96 in sympathy for my British friends. Ate soup dumplings at Yu Noodles, and tried Padack at Seven Corners for the first time. Went to the Middle East Institute Art Gallery to see “More Than Your Eyes Can see: Contemporary Photography from the Arab World,” then enjoyed excellent grilled pulpo (octopus) and Tostones con salsa de mango at Del Sur Café in D.C. Visited my ailing father in Yorktown and met Sarah at Brambly Park Winery, where we had a huge falling out. Started physical therapy for pain in my right hip. Headed for Nova Scotia, Canada only to find out that the Category 4 Hurricane Fiona was heading that way. Picked up Mike at the Halifax airport just in time for us to hunker down in our Airbnb while Hurricane Fiona blew through overnight. Lost power for two days because of the storm. Drove an hour southwest to Mahone Bay to find coffee since no place in Halifax had power. Wandered around the colorful UNESCO town of Lunenburg and explored the fishing village of Blue Rocks, “Lunenburg’s answer to Peggy’s Cove.” Enjoyed our first fish cakes and seafood chowder at the Salt Shaker Deli. Clambered around the rocky coastal shelf at Peggy’s Cove and admired its stalwart lighthouse along with hordes of tourists. Enjoyed the amazing costal views and colorful vegetation as we hiked at Polly’s Cove. Paid respects to the victims at the SwissAir Flight 111 Memorial from the 1998 crash in St. Margaret’s Bay. Enjoyed mussels, chowder, and Digby scallops at Bluenose II Café in Halifax and then strolled along the lively waterfront boardwalk. Learned about Halifax history at the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, including the 1912 Titanic sinking, the 1917 Halifax Explosion, and the huge numbers of shipwrecks off the shore. Enjoyed beer and whiskey and poutine at The Old Triangle, where the talkative waitress gave us a list of recommended spots to see. Drove to the Annapolis Valley and the Minas Basin, where we walked along the bay floor at low tide at Blomidon Provincial Park. Enjoyed a picnic lunch at Hall’s Harbour and then did a wine tasting at Domaine de Grand Pré. Enjoyed my first lobster roll at McKelvie’s in Halifax. Walked the Pennant Point Trail past the naturist Crystal Crescent Beach, but it was too cold to see any nude bathers. Admired the folksy paintings of Maud Lewis at the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia. Imbibed in tequila and tacos at Antojo Tacos & Tequila after having beers at the Beer Garden. Strolled the boardwalks through breezy marshes at the Sackville Waterfowl Park. Went from our new apartment in Saint John, New Brunswick to hike the Laverty Falls trail at Fundy National Park. Had an argument with Mike about books over Indian food at Thandi and then gave the waiter grief about his patriarchal attitude. Sadly finished one of our favorite TV series, The Bridge. Saw Mrs. Harris Goes to Paris at Cinema Arts Theatre. Finished 2 books out of my goal of 55 for the year (bringing my total to 44/55), my favorite being Born a Crime by Trevor Noah. Continued our perpetual mourning for the loss of 1,053,412 people in the U.S., and 6.53 million in the world, from two+ years of COVID.

September bullet journal

Alex

L’Auberge Chez Francois menu

L’Auberge Chez Francois

Alex and Barbara

Alex and me at L’Auberge Chez Francois

Alex, Barbara, Mike and me at L’Auberge Chez Francois

dinner at Yu Noodles

dinner at Padack

“More Than Your Eyes Can See: Contemporary Photography from the Arab World”

me at Del Sur Cafe in D.C.

Mike at Del Sur Cafe in D.C.

view from Del Sur Cafe

Hurricane Fiona on track to hit the Maritimes

our Airbnb in Halifax

Lunenburg

Blue Rocks

Mike at Blue Rocks

Blue Rocks

me at Blue Rocks

Blue Rocks near Lunenberg, Nova Scotia

Mike at Peggy’s Cove

Peggy’s Cove

Mike at Peggy’s Cove

Peggy’s Cove

Polly’s Cove

Halifax Waterfront Boardwalk

The Beer Garden in Halifax

mural in Halifax

Maritime Museum of the Atlantic

The Old Triangle

Blomidon Provincial Park

Annapolis Valley

Hall’s Harbour

Wolfville, Nova Scotia

Domaine de Grand Pré

Crystal Crescent Beach

Crystal Crescent Beach, near Halifax, NS

Crystal Crescent Beach

monument in Halifax

Maude Lewis house at the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia

Art Gallery of Nova Scotia

Halifax Harbour

me at Halifax Harbour

me at Antojo Tacos & Tequila

Sackville Waterfowl Park

me at Sackville Waterfowl Park

Sackville Waterfowl Park

Mike at Sackville Waterfowl Park

Sackville Waterfowl Park

covered bridge at Sackville Waterfowl Park

Sackville Waterfowl Park

Laverty Falls hike at Fundy National Park

Laverty Falls hike

Mike on Laverty Falls hike

Laverty Falls

Laverty Falls hike

Laverty Falls

me at Laverty Falls

marina at Alma

Saint John, New Brunswick

sunset at Saint John

flower shop in Saint John

In October, I: Continued exploring New Brunswick, Canada with Mike. Saw the strange phenomenon of the Reversing Falls at Saint John, where the strong Fundy tides rise higher than the water level of the Saint John River twice each day and appear to reverse the rapids. Walked around the unimpressive Container Village at the Saint John waterfront. Drove across a sand bar to Ministers Island and had to get off the island by 2:00 to avoid being stuck there by the tides. Wandered around the adorable St. Andrews by-the-Sea where I bought a fisherman’s hat and earned the nickname of “Roscoe” from Mike. Explored the sea bottom at low tide at Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park, and admired the “Flowerpot Rocks” there; they would be partially underwater at high tide. Enjoyed lobster rolls and a lazy lobster dinner at Alma Lobster Shop. Returned to Hopewell Rocks the next day, too late to see the rocks at high tide. Drove the 8-mile long Confederation Bridge over the Northumberland Strait. Met my old friend Lisa, who I studied Arabic with in Egypt in 2007, in Sea View, Prince Edward Island. Went on a ride in Lisa’s truck to meet her friends and then to see her favorite sights: Black Horse Corner, Park Corner Heritage Cemetery, the New London Lighthouse and the Cape Tryon Lighthouse, French River, and the red sand beaches. Enjoyed two fabulous breakfasts and dinners by Lisa, one of which included an early Canadian Thanksgiving dinner. Rode electric bikes around Charlottetown and for a bit along the Confederation Trail. Found much of Prince Edward Island National Park shut down because of trees felled by Hurricane Fiona. Visited Green Gables, the inspiration for L.M. Montgomery’s Anne of Green Gables, and was surprised to discover her love of fashion and her scrapbooking passion. Drove back across the Confederation Bridge and then the U.S. border to Brunswick, Maine. Had a horrible endless day driving home from Maine, encountering multiple traffic delays and detours due to heavy traffic on the Friday before the Columbus Day weekend. Continued physical therapy for the pain in my right hip. Found out my daughter was heartbroken over the death of her cat, Chicken Little, died. Ate sushi at Ariake and enjoyed an early 67th birthday celebration at Artie’s with Alex and Mike. Rode my bike for 11 miles on my Tuesday birthday. Met our friends Karen and Michael for dinner and drinks at Tiki Thai. Got my flu shot and second pneumonia vaccine. Voted early, blue all the way. Saw a student production of Head Over Heels at Center for the Arts at George Mason University. Drove to western Virginia to browse at the adorable Old Luckett’s Store (“Vintage Hip”) and enjoyed a giant chili dog and blackberry smash at Flying Ace Farm and Distillery. Was heartbroken to hear of the horrible crowd crush in Itaewon in Seoul, South Korea, where over 150 young people were killed while celebrating Halloween. Started watching the new season of White Lotus and got Apple TV+ so we could finally watch Ted Lasso. Watched Rear Window, Norwegian Wood, Notorious, Little White Lie, Ticket to Paradise, and That’s Amor. Finished 3 books out of my goal of 55 for the year (bringing my total to 47/55), my favorites being In the Field by Claire Tacon and Anne of Green Gables by L.M. Montgomery. Continued our perpetual mourning for the loss of 1,070,264 people in the U.S., and 6.59 million in the world, from two+ years of COVID.

October bullet journal

Mural in Saint John, New Brunswick

The Creamery at Covenhoven on Ministers Island

Ministers Island

Covenhoven on Ministers Island

Cedar Lane on Ministers Island

St. Andrews By-The-Sea

Greenock Church at St. Andrews By-The-Sea

Lepreau Falls

Hopewell Rocks

Mike at Hopewell Rocks

Hopewell Rocks

Hopewell Rocks, New Brunswick

Hopewell Rocks

Cape Enrage

covered bridge in Fundy National Park

Alma, New Brunswick

Mike in Alma

Alma, New Brunswick

Hopewell Rocks at higher tide

Confederation Bridge

Lisa, me and Mike at Black Horse Corner

Lisa and me at Park Corner Cemetery

French River, PEI

sunset on PEI

New London Lighthouse, PEI

French Village

another fishing village on PEI

Lisa & me at her Thanksgiving feast

me at Green Gables

Prince Edward Island National Park

North Rustico, PEI

our front porch at home

sushi at Ariake

Mike at Ariake

me with Alex at Artie’s on my birthday

Me with Mike

Tuna salad at Artie’s

blowing out my candle for my birthday

ghostly beings

Karen, Michael, Mike and me at Tiki Thai

a bikeride on my actual birthday

falls colors

Me with Mike at “Head Over Heels”

me at The Old Luckett’s Store

The Old Luckett’s Store

The Cottage

Flying Ace Farm and Distillery

Mike with a Cubano at Flying Ace Farm

Me with a chili dog & blackberry smash

a mural in Purcellville

Scores Killed in Seoul Crowd Crush

fall colors

In November, I: Continued physical therapy on my right upper hip; studied Spanish on Duolingo; planned and booked our upcoming trip to Nicaragua & Costa Rica. Enjoyed soup dumplings at Yu Noodles and injera with lentils and veggies at Enatye Ethiopian with Mike and Alex. Went to the Renwick Gallery for our 34^th (27^th) anniversary to see “This Present Moment: Crafting a Better World,” and enjoyed pulpo and the Latin American vibe at Del Sur Café. Visited my bedridden dad in Yorktown, and felt sad to see him wasting away despite continuing to eat. Had a 29^th birthday celebration with our son’s girlfriend, Jandira, who we finally met after 8 months. Had a lovely Thanksgiving with almost the whole family here: Sarah, Alex, Jandira and Mike’s sister Barbara – everyone except Adam, who is still in Nicaragua and who we’ll see in late December. Spent Thanksgiving Day, after eating a huge feast, playing Codenames and Monopoly Deal. Walked daily but missed out on yoga due to PT sessions. Read 4 books out of my goal of 55 for the year (bringing my total to 51/55), with my favorite being Bodies of Water by T. Greenwood. Started watching the second season of The White Lotus and the fifth season of The Crown. Mourned the loss of 1,079,197 people in the U.S., and 6.6 million in the world, from two years & eight months of COVID.

November bullet journal

a walk along Glade Drive

Kimchi House in Alexandria

Kimchi House

Bibimbap at Kimchi House

dinner at Sweet Ginger

Fading fall colors

me at the Renwick

the Renwick Gallery in D.C.

me at Del Sur Cafe in D.C.

Alex at Enatye Ethiopian

Ethiopian food at Enatye Ethiopian

Alex & Jandira

Jandira blows out her birthday candles

Thanksgiving table

Barbara and Jandira playing Codenames

Sarah and Mike at Codenames

walk around Lake Audubon on Thanksgiving Day

Alex, me and Sarah

Alex & Jandira

me with Mike

sunrise out our window

In December, I: Visited the Hirshhorn Museum & Sculpture Garden to see “One with Eternity: Yayoi Kasuma in the Hirshhorn Collection.” Discovered other interesting and disturbing works in our wanders through the museum, including one on Contemporary Photography in China, in which protest art attempts to reclaim what was lost in the Cultural Revolution and tries to reckon with the recent past. Ate dinner in Arlington at Buena Vida Gastrolounge. Wished our son in Nicaragua a happy 30th birthday on Pearl Harbor Day. Finished up physical therapy on my right hip. Had a nice long talk with my friend Jayne in California. Celebrated as Alex graduated from Northern Virginia Community College and got officially accepted into George Mason University to continue his Computer Science degree. Saw Empire of Light at Cinema Arts Theatre followed by a delectable Vietnamese dinner. Went with Alex and Mike to Washington National Cathedral to see the annual display of creches and to eat our traditional lunch at the Lebanese Taverna Market. Felt heartbroken that my father passed away on December 18 after a years-long decline from strokes and Alzheimer’s, and after having become totally bedridden for the last year. Had a Zoom call with my siblings to toast my dad since he specified that he didn’t want any kind of funeral, although we’ll have a celebration of life in January or February. Enjoyed a Christmas celebration with Alex and Jandira, Mike and Barbara topped off by a game of Ticket to Ride. Took an early morning flight to Managua, Nicaragua to visit our son, Adam. Climbed Cerro Apante in Matagalpa to see views of the city and the huge Virgin Mary statue. Visited the Selva Negra coffee farm and learned about revolutionary leader Carlos Fonseca. Tried Nicaraguan street foods with Adam’s guidance: buñelos, respado, atol, and unripe mangoes with salt, lime & chili. Climbed to the roof of the Catedral de León and walked through the decrepit Museo de Revolución. Sunned and body-surfed at Playa Las Penitas on the Pacific coast, and then visited León museums in the afternoon: the Museo Rubén Dario and the Centro De Arte Fundación Ortiz-Gurdian. Ate a delicious New Year’s Eve dinner at El Bodegón in León, although I didn’t stay up to see in the New Year. Read 7 books out of my goal of 55 for the year (bringing my total to 58/55), with my favorites being Make Your Home Among Strangers by Jennine Capo Crucet and The Year of Fog by Michelle Richmond. Finished the second season of White Lotus. Mourned the loss of 1,090,204 people in the U.S., and 6.678 million in the world, from two years & ten months of COVID.

December bullet journal

Yayoi Kasuma in the Hirshhorn Collection

John Akombrah at the Hirshhorn

Contemporary Photography in China at the Hirshhorn

Hirshhorn permanant collection

Food trucks and the U.S. Capitol

Mike at Buena Vida Gastrolounge

lingering leaves

East Wind Vietnamese

Mike at Lake Anne in Reston

Washington National Cathedral

Alex and me at Washington National Cathedral

Alex and Mike at Washington National Cathedral

Washington National Cathedral

creches at the Cathedral

Stained glass window at the Cathedral

view of Washington from the Cathedral

My mom and dad in China Lake, CA

My dad holding me

Steph and Seth, Trey, Dad, Alex, Joan and Kelsey

Dad and me

Me at Anita’s not very happy about losing our power for 26 hours

Alex & Jandira make a pot of chili on Christmas Eve

Jandira and Alex opening presents

Jandira and Alex

Mike and me

Barbara, Jandira, Alex, me and Mike

Flying out of Washington on Dec. 27

Flying into Miami on our way to Managua

Mike, Adam, Alex and me in Matagalpa

me at Rincón Azteca Mexican Food in Matagalpa

Alex and Adam hiking up Cerro Apante

view of Matagalpa from Cerro Apante

Mike & me on Cerro Apante

Adam & Alex atop Cerro Apante

youth hostel at Selva Negra near Matagalpa, Nicaragua

the family at Selva Negra

Mike and me in Morazan Park in Matagalpa

León Catedral

me atop León Catedral

León Catedral

Iglesia de la Recoleccción in León

Adam and Mike at Playa Las Penitas

Sign for Poneloya

me with Mike on the rooftop of the Museum of the Revolution in León

Nicaraguan painting in the Centro De Arte Fundación Ortiz-Gurdian

Mike, Alex and Adam at El Bodegón on New Year’s Eve

Here are some of my previous years’ recap posts. I now wish I had one for every year of my life, as they serve as great reminders of my adventures, joys, challenges, and tribulations in years past!

twenty twenty-one: from insurrection to omicron
twenty-twenty: the year of coronavirus
twenty-nineteen
twenty-eighteen
twenty-seventeen
twenty-sixteen
Sadly, I didn’t do one in 2015.
twenty-fourteen
twenty-thirteen
weekly photo challenge: my 2012 in pictures

Here’s wishing everyone a Happy New Year in 2023! 🙂

anticipation & preparation: nicaragua & costa rica

wanderessence1025 December 21, 2022

We are going to Nicaragua and Costa Rica after the Christmas holidays. This will be our first time to Central America, and I feel good that this year we’re giving some love to the Americas outside of the U.S. Our primary reason for going to Nicaragua is to visit our youngest son who has been staying on Ometepe Island in that country almost since the start of the pandemic. We’ve seen him on FaceTime and Zoom, and talked with him frequently, but we haven’t seen him in person since early 2020.

Mike was the driving force behind going to Costa Rica, which adjoins the southern border of Nicaragua; to be honest I wasn’t originally all that thrilled about it. Heat and humidity are not things I enjoy; neither are bugs, poisonous snakes, bullet ants, and other unpredictable wildlife. Plus, Costa Rica is a different ballgame altogether with all of its adventure sports and active volcanoes. However, after reading a lot about it, I’m now fully onboard and have even opted to try numerous adventure sports such as ziplining, tubing, rafting and superman ziplining, as well as walks over hanging bridges and guided wildlife walks.

Spanish studies

I’ve continued my Spanish studies with The Great Courses and with Duolingo; so far I have a 212 day streak and I’m determined to meet daily goals and to keep practicing.

Duolingo stats 2022

Books

Of course, I always love to read books set in my destination, so I read some of the books below (indicated with stars and ratings). I own the books in green and will read them sometime during the year.

books set in Nicaragua

Nicaragua

The Country Under My Skin: A Memoir of Love & War by Gioconda Belli *****
The Jaguar Smile: A Nicaraguan Journey by Salman Rushdie ***
Nicaragua: Living in the Shadow of the Eagle by Thomas W. Walker
Blood of Brothers: Life and War in Nicaragua by Stephen Kinzer (currently reading)
The Ladies of Managua by Eleni N. Gage (Kindle) ***
Lonely Planet Nicaragua ****

books set in or partly in Costa Rica

Costa Rica

Moon Costa Rica by Nikki Solano ****
Costa Rica: A Traveler’s Literary Companion, Ed. by Barbara Ras
The Ticos: Culture and Social Change in Costa Rica by Mavis Hiltunen Biesanz & Richard Biesanz
Monkeys are Made of Chocolate: Exotic and Unseen Costa Rica by Jack Ewing
Happier Than a Billionaire: Quitting My Job, Moving to Costa Rica, & Living the Zero Hour Work Week by Nadine Hays Pisani (currently reading)
Jurassic Park by Michael Crichton
The Lost World by Michael Crichton
The Year of Fog by Michelle Richmond (& San Francisco, CA) ****
The Best Short Stories of Quince Duncan by Quince Duncan
A Beach House to Die For by K.C. Ames
See Before You Die: Costa Rica by J.E. Leigh
The Scent of Jade by Dee DeTarsio
It’s Every Monkey for Themselves: A True Story of Sex, Love and Lies in the Jungle by Vanessa Woods

Movies

I found movies set in Nicaragua and Costa Rica, but sadly I haven’t seen any of them. Hopefully, I can find some of these in the coming months.

Nicaragua

Alsino and the Condor (1982)
Under Fire (1983)
Latino (1985)
Walker (1987)
Clinton and Nadine (1988)
Sandino (1990)
Carla’s Song (1997)
La Yuma (2010)
Now & Later (2011)
Kill the Messenger (2014)
The Naked Screen (La Pantalla Desnuda) (2014)
Drunk Wedding (2015)

Costa Rica

Caribe (1987)
Jurassic Park (1993)
Jurassic Park & The Lost World (1997)
Jurassic Park III (2001)
Spy Kids 2: Island of Lost Dreams (2002)
The Blue Butterfly (2004)
The Red Sky (El Cielo Rojo) (2008)
The Path (El camino) (2008)
Cold Water of the Sea (Agua fría de mar) (2010)
Costa Rican Summer (2010)
Runner Runner (2013)
After Earth (2013) – in La Fortuna
The Happiest Place in the World (El lugar más feliz del mundo) (2015)
Journey (Viaje) (2015)
After Words (2015)
Imprisoned (Presos) (2015)
About Us (Entonces nosotros) (2016)
The Heat After the Rain (El calor después de la lluvia) (2016)
Paths of Love (Los caminos del amor) (2019)
Land of Ashes (Ceniza negra) (2019)
The Last Thing He Wanted (2020)
One Step from Me (A un paso de mí) (2021)

Our Itinerary

It seems our time in Nicaragua will be more laid back than our time in Costa Rica. Costa Rica is a real tourist destination with so many activities to choose from that it boggles the mind. Below is our itinerary. The Costa Rica part includes numerous options, some of which we haven’t yet narrowed down. I hope to wait until we’re in country and can get recommendations from our hotels or tour guides.

Nicaragua

Our entire trip encompasses 22 days, including the travel to Nicaragua and from Costa Rica.

1) Tuesday: Fly into Managua, Nicaragua. Pick up rental car and drive to Matagalpa. (2 hr 12 min):

Hotel San Jose, Matagalpa

2) Wednesday: Overnight in Matagalpa

Hiking opportunities abound. Boulder, fields and red rock faces of El Ocote
Cafetín Girasol: Sells detailed leaflets for self-guided walks
Esteli: (1 hr 34 min): Reserva Natural Miraflor (???) (too far and too much time?)
- Stunning cloud forest with rivers and waterfalls
- One-day trek 7 a.m. – 4 p.m. and cost around $20/person (inc. 2 meals and mandatory guide). All money goes to supporting community and farmers.

3) Thursday: Overnight in Matagalpa

Reserva Natural Cerro Apante: Cloud Forest Reserve and shade-grown coffee plantations, pleasant cool climate (2 hour round trip hike to mirador)
Selva Negra – hike any of 20 km of trails

4) Friday: Matagalpa to León (2 hr 36 min)

Hotel La Posada del Doctor
Leon City Walk, p. 145 guidebook (Revolutionary and Cultural Leon)
- Museo de Arte Fundación Ortiz-Gurdián (contemporary art, $2, way to escape the heat)
- Iglesia de la Recolección – most beautiful church in city
- Museo Histórico de la Revolución (Museum of the Revolution – $2)
- Catedral de León 8 a.m. to 12 OR 2-4 pm Monday-Saturday (Cathedral-Basilica of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary)
  - Largest in Central America, Tomb of Rubén Darío (poet)
  - Climb to top for views ($2)
- Street Art of the Revolution
- Dine at Al Mirador for views and sunset
- Explore local markets: Mercado Central most popular and renovated, across street from Cathedral

5) Saturday: Overnight in León

La Peñitas – white sand paradise
Poneloya
Mas Adventures – hiking trips to Telica, El Hoyo, Cosigüina * Asosasca Volcanoes
Reserva Natural Isla Juan Venado (not sure)

6) Sunday: León to Granada (2 hr 25 min)

Granada Airbnb
Motorbiking is a good way to get around in Granada; NO UBER. Get around by Tuk-tuk, taxi or foot.
Drive by Masaya volcano (stop at Mirador Catarina) – if you go at night from Granada you can see the magma lit up
Fortaleza La Polvora – best views in town to Lago Nicaragua
La Capilla María Auxiliadora – beautiful interior
Cemeterioide Granada – outskirts of town

7) Monday: Overnight in Granada

City Walk: p. 88 guidebook
- Explore main plaza: Parque Central, Catedral de Granada
- Go to Iglesia La Merced (near Cathedral) and climb bell tower ($1): stunning views of Cathedral and the city in general (great sunset location as well)
- Convento y Museo San Francisco
Iglesia de Merced – Sunset Views from bell tower

8) Tuesday: Overnight in Granada

Volcan Mombacho – hikes. Open with regular hours (Fri, Sat, Sun only??)
Reserva Natural Laguna de Apoyo – Crater Lake
- Go to Paradiso hostel; message them on Facebook and book direct for free access to tubes, sun loungers and kayaks, small fee for paddle boards ($10/person if book with them directly)
Isletas de Oranada

9) Wednesday: Granada > Rivas (1 hr 13 min) > to Santa Cruz, Ometepe (2 hr 12 min – cross ferry)

El Encanto Garden Hotel, Santa Cruz
Punta Jesus Maria
Ojo de Agua (The Eye of Water) Ometepe – natural spring. (Carol & Carlos recommended)

10) Thursday: Overnight in Santa Cruz, Ometepe

Motorbikes? Or bicycles?
Hike to Cascada San Ramón
Horseback ride to Volcán Maderas
More of our son’s life

11) Friday: Santa Cruz, Ometepe (cross ferry) > San Juan del Sur (2 hr 40 min)

HC Liri Hotel
Explore San Juan del Sur: Clapboard Victorian houses, pretty beach for sunset stroll, statue of Christ: Cristo de la Misericordia (1 hr hike up and 1 hr down)
Eat dinner at El Timon San Juan del Sur – Nicaraguan beach restaurant with thatched roof – Latin live music J (Recommended by Carol & Carlos)

Costa Rica

12) Saturday: LEAVE NICARAGUA. San Juan del Sur > Peñas Blancas > Playa Hermosa, Costa Rica (2 hr 26 min)

(Trade in rental car and get new one at the border in Peñas Blancas)
Our son returns to Ometepe and we travel onward.
Hotel El Velero
Laid back vibe, Relax on the beach, stroll 4-block boardwalk

13) Sunday: Overnight in Playa Hermosa, Costa Rica

Diamante Eco Adventure Park
- Zip line and Aerial Adventure + 30 foot free fall Quick jump. Scheduled for 10 a.m.-12 p.m.
Relax on the beach

14) Monday: Playa Hermosa > Airport (29 min) > Liberia (19 min) > Hotel Hacienda Guachipelin (32 min)

Take Alex to Guanacaste Airport near Liberia by 10:00 AM. (32 minutes)
Liberia:
- Iglesia La Agonía
- Giant El Toro Statue
- Parque Mario Cañas Ruiz & Central Church of Liberia
- Hotel Hacienda Guachipelin, Rincon de la Vieja National Park
- (Massages??)

15) Tuesday: Overnight at Hotel Hacienda Guachipelin

2x 1 day Adventure Pass 8:30 a.m.
- Canopy (zipline tour), rapelling through the Rio Blanco Canyon, a tubing adventure on the Rio Negro River with class III rapids, horseback riding expedition to nearby waterfalls, relax with volcano heated thermal waters, steam and mud bath.

16) Wednesday: Hotel Hacienda Guachipelin > Catarata Llanos del Cortes (47 min) > Bijagua, Costa Rica (55 min)

(TOTAL drive 1 hr 33 min)
Catarata Llanos del Cortes (quick stop at waterfall)
Celeste Mountain Lodge
Volcán Tenorio: Rio Celeste: hiking: Sendero Principal 3km 1 way 1.5-2 hours last entry 2 pm.
Rio Celeste: $2 to park by trailhead and $12/person to hike the trail (8 am – 4 pm)
- Along bright blue river
- Enter park through El Pilón Ranger Station
- Catarata Rio Celeste (waterfall)
- Mountain Mirador
- Laguna Azul
- Borbollones & Los Teñideros
Also: Frog Paradise and Wildlife Sanctuary nearby (night tour?)

17) Thursday: Bijagua > Tilaran (1 hr 7 min) > Monteverde (1 hour 41 min) Take route 145 and 606.

Hotel Claro de Luna
Monteverde Rain Forest Night Walk $34 (@ 2 hours) (5:30 or 8 pm)
- Meeting point: Wildlife Refuge Monteverde: C. Los Camachos, Provincia de Puntarenas, Monteverde, Costa Rica Drive to Cañitas in the 606 nort 1K out of the town to Refugio de vida silvestre in calle Camachos or add in your GPS 85HC+FV Monterverde de Puntarenas when you are there please ask for Johnny Villegas in the front desk of Refugio de Vida Silvestre
- RSVP to the biggest party in Monteverde with this nocturnal tour of the area’s famed wildlife by moonlight, when nearly 80 percent of Monteverde’s mammalian residents come out to play. Join a guide who will help you spot animals such as gray foxes, reptiles, and more as they come out after dark. Guided night walk of Monteverde’s wildlife Spot the animals that only come out at night, including gray foxes and more Nocturnal tour lets you see more of Monteverde’s famed animal life, as nearly 80 percent of its mammals are nocturnal. Read more about Monteverde Rain Forest Night Walk – https://www.viator.com/tours/Puntarenas/Monteverde-Night-Walk/d4506-23968P2?mcid=56757

18) Friday: Overnight in Monteverde. OPTIONS:

Monteverde Sky Adventures Park:
- Sky Walk &Tram @ Monteverde 9:35 pick up at hotel. Adventure from 10:15 a.m. – 2:00 p.m.
Monteverde Orchid Garden (9 am – 5 pm daily, $14/adult)
- Complimentary guided tour (departs every 15 minutes 9am-4:15pm, 35-45 min) is optional but wows everyone.
Shopping in Santa Elena:
- Woods Art Gallery – Costa Rican souvenirs
- Foresta Arte Local – jewelry, clothing and items made with batik fabrics
- Luna Azul – handcrafted jewelry and clothing designed by Costa Ricans

19) Saturday: Overnight in Monteverde. OPTIONS:

Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso de Santa Elena – cloud forest immersion (7am-4pm daily, last entry 2:30pm, $16/adult). Significantly smaller, slightly higher in elevation, and noticeably less busy than the Monteverde cloud forest reserve (see below). More intimate and peaceful experience. 12km of well-maintained hiking trails.
- Tour guide in visitor center: natural history walk (7:30am, 9:15am, 11:30am, 1pm daily, 2.5 hours, $33/adult) All guided bookings require 2 days notice. By phone or website.
- Guided Sunrise Tour: (4:50 am daily, 1.5-2 hours, $25pp, includes reserve entrance fee). Tour provides access to park before reserve opens; when sunrise tour wraps up, can spend the rest of the day exploring the network of on-site trails at your own pace, at no extra cost.
- Hiking:
  - Sendero Encantado, 3.5km loop, 2-3 hours, moderate)
  - Sendero del Bajjo (2.5km loop, 1.5 hours, moderate) (don’t have to work too hard on either of the above trails)
  - Sendero Caño Negro: (5km one-way, 3-4 hours, moderate-difficult) – roughest, most adventurous trek of reserve’s five trails.
OR Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso de Monteverde (12 min drive from Santa Elena. 4×4 recommended but not required) – Park fee $25/person. Most popular cloud forest. Over 4,000 hectares. 11 trails of varying length. Well maintained and easy to follow.
- 7am-4pm daily, last entry 2pm, $25/adult
- Region’s most visited cloud forest reserve
- Guided tours:
  - Early morning bird-watching tour (6am, 3 hours, $65pp.)
    - Resplendent quetzal
    - Three wattled bellbird
  - Daytime natural history walk (7:30am, 11:30am, 1:30 pm – 2 hours, $23/pp)
  - Can arrange tours through the reserve or through tour operators in town – advance reservation for tours are required
  - Park’s trails can also be explored without a guide. Advance reservations recommended but not required, esp. in morning when park is busiest.
  - Hiking: 13km trail system beyond the main visitors center.
    - Sendero Bosque Nuboso, 2km one way, 45 min, moderate)
      - “cloud forest” – dense forest where air is moist and cluttered with clouds. Prettiest trail in park
    - Sendero Camino, 2km one way, 30-45 min, easy-moderate) – less rugged terrain, a wider track and an easier hike, but a less scenic experience.
      - Both of above most frequented, end near La Ventana (The Window) a lookout point over the Continental Divide
Hummingbird Garden (just outside Monteverde Cloud Forest)
Horse Trek Monteverde – choose from mountain and farm rides, during the day or sunset, rides along the Continental Divide and more.
- Half-day ($49-65 pp)
- Full-day ($85 pp)
El Tigre waterfalls:
- 2 trails, both intermediate level, showcasing 4 stunning waterfalls and 9 bridges. $29 entry. 7:30am-2pm.
Selvatura Park (wildlife – hummingbirds, snakes, butterflies, and other species) – Caters to busloads of visitors daily.
- Guided exhibit tours every 15 min (8:30 am – 2:30 pm daily)
  - Hummingbird garden ($6/person)
  - Butterfly Garden ($17/person)
  - Reptile and Amphibian Exhibition ($17/person)
  - Sloth Sanctuary (45 min, $35/adult)
- Adventure tours:
  - Zip-lining canopy tour ($55/adult – 8:30 am, 11am, 1pm, 2:30 pm. 2.5 hours)
  - Treetop Walkways hanging bridges tour (8:30 am, 11am, 1pm, 2:30pm. 2-2.5 hours guided tour – $33/person) A moderate hike through 90% virgin forest. 1.9km of trails over 8 bridges ranging from 170 feet to an amazing 560ft. in length.
Monteverde Adventure Company

- Whitewater rafting
- Safari float excursion on Río Tenorio
- Horsebackriding tour
- Mountain biking tour
- Kayaking tour
- Stand-up paddleboarding tour on or around Lago Arenal
Find the ficus tree bridge hidden in the jungle of Santa Elena

1. Located in downtown Santa Elena, should only take about 30 minutes. Walk from the start of the trail takes only 5 minutes. Try climbing down to the river and get an angle from below.

Finca Don Juan (8am-5pm daily)
- Coffee, Chocolate and Sugarcane Tour (8am, 10am, 1pm, 3pm daily. $37/adult)

20) Sunday: Monteverde > Juan Santamaría International Airport (2 hr 46 min) – drop off rental car) > San Jose (45 min)

Birdwatching Morning Tour 6am-8am. See up to 480 bird species – pickup included. $65.76/person
- Read more about Bird Watching Tour in Monteverde – https://www.viator.com/tours/Monteverde/Birdwatching-Tour-in-Monteverde-Cloud-Forest/d24783-9102P1?mcid=56757 Immerse yourself in the bird lover’s paradise of Monteverde cloud forest on this 2.5-hour early-morning bird-watching tour. With up to 450 species of birds, including the rare Resplendent Quetzal, Monteverde is a natural playground for wildlife enthusiasts and your expert guide will ensure you tick off as many as possible. Don’t just train your binoculars on the treetops either – white-throated capuchin monkeys, coatis, agoutis and deer are also common sightings. 2.5-hour bird-watching tour of the Monteverde Cloud Forest Maximise your chances of spotting birds with an early-morning walking tour Be in with a chance of seeing 450 different bird species, including the Resplendent Quetzal Spot wildlife like coatis, capuchin monkeys and deer No experience necessary: suitable for all abilities Free hotel pickup and drop-off included Small-group tour ensures a personalized experience.

Hotel Santo Tomas/Historical Property

21) Monday: Overnight in San Jose

Can take a San José Free Walking Tour 9 am and 1 pm daily, 3 hours, donations accepted). Covers downtown core. Just meet in front of Aurora Holiday Inn on north side of Parque Morazán.
Sights:
- Cathedral Metropolitana (6am-7:30pm Mon-Sat; 6am-9pm Sun) 4 masses throughout day Mon-Sat.; 7 services on Sunday.
- Plaza de la Cultura (park)
- Teatro Nacional de Costa Rica (can visit for free to see inside) – can see theater on guided tour 9am-4pm daily, 45 min, $11/person)
- Museo del Jade (pre-Columbian history) (See the Night exhibit & the colorful Day exhibit) (9am-5pm daily, $16/person)
- Museo del Oro Precolombino: Gold Museum (9:15am-5pm daily) $14/person)

22) Tuesday: Fly home to U.S.

Travel Journal

Finally, here are some bits of my journal that I’ll be taking along.

a slothy journal

cover page and maps

some cool wildlife to look forward to

Nicaragua (from Lonely Planet)

Costa Rica (from Lonely Planet)

See you again in January. Happy New Year, everyone!

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Choco Museo

Danny’s Isletas Boat Tour

Back in Granada

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Mirador de Catarina

Posada Ecológica la Abuela

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León

Las Peñitas

León

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In Transit – from D.C. to Miami to Managua

Arrival in Nicaragua and onward to Matagalpa

Reserva Natural Cerro Apante

Selva Negra and a wander around Matagalpa

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Spanish studies

Books

Movies

Our Itinerary

Nicaragua

Costa Rica

Travel Journal

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